Part 20

Dia. III demonstrates this fact by the shorter back, and by the reduction of the back of the sidepiece, and by the wedge between the bottom of the sidepiece and the top of the skirt. I do not claim that it is just so, by every fraction of an inch, but I know that Dia. III will produce a coat that will fit the normal form, and is the same as Dia. II; and if anyone else would like to see it illustrated in a different way it would merely show that our ideas are running in different directions. But this would not change the principle.

Now, I will refer to the different effects produced if the wearer throws himself into a stooping or over-erect position when the garment is cut through at and across the hollow of the waist. By observing the backward and forward movements of the different forms, it cannot fail to show to the most critical observer that most all changes between the stooping and the erect form can be made by reducing the width and giving more length for the stooping, and by reducing length and giving more width for the erect form at the hollow of the waist; and no other change is required, unless a combination of abnormal conditions exists. The gore between the back and the sidepiece at the waist is an artificial gore, and should not be much changed for any form.

Most all changes between the stooping and erect forms may be made at the under arm seam, as follows: For the erect form, allow say ½ to ¾ inches at the side, and before sewing that seam up stretch the sidepiece say ¼ to ⅜ inches, which will shorten the back seam that much and throw the extra width behind where it belongs. For a stooping form, take off the same width at the side, and stretch the back seam of the sidepiece at, and just above, the hollow of the waist, but never enough to show the back full. The reason why I am opposed to changing much on the back seam of the sidepiece is, that that seam is always on a curve and it is very long, reaching clear down to the bottom of the coat, and is apt to be thrown clear out of gear by changing it. But the under arm cut is nearly straight, and short, and can better be managed. If a vest can be thrown in by that seam surely a frock coat can also. If the back is a trifle full at the sidepiece, and at the hollow of the waist, a coat will be made the better by it, and in no case should the back be stretched there. If the back requires shortening, it must be obtained by stretching the sidepiece on the forepart downward, or by folding up the pattern at the back of the sidepiece. The form of alteration depends upon the time it is to be made, either before the coat is cut, or after it is made.

To this article of erect forms may be added something about straight backs, at the neck, or from the shoulder blade upward. A long neck may lean forward and may then be classed among stooping forms, and must be stretched accordingly; that is, by lengthening the back only. But a long neck may shoot nearly straight up behind, in which case it must be classed among the erect forms.

Between a long neck leaning forward and a long neck shooting nearly straight up behind, there must be a difference in the shape of the top of the back. We all know that the top of the center of the back must be higher or at least as high as the side of the back, when the coat is on the body; still when the pattern is spread out on a flat surface, the neckhole is nearly a circle, and it will be a still more complete circle when the garment is on the body. It must run nearly in a circle because from the chest, shoulders and shoulder blades the body runs upward to a point, as shown in Fig. I, but the garments are cut off at the neck. The broader the top of the back is cut, the more center sinks down behind, as shown in Dia. V.

Now, the cutting down of the top and center of back must be done, because we intend to cut the shoulder seam where fashion requires it should be. As far as the fit is concerned, we might run the shoulder seam to within ½ in. of the center of back, in which case the center of the back would be the highest point. As backs are cut, the sides are the highest point on the flat table, but when on the body the center of back is the highest point, and we may just as well say that the top and center of back are the highest points, that this is the starting point, and that from this point the whole neckhole is thrown forward and downward, where it forms in a complete circle around the neck.

I am writing here about the neckhole proper, and not of the length of the back over the blade; and the above explanations are made to show that the so-called front shoulder point is anywhere we please to locate the shoulder seam, and again, I want to show that a straight back, or a straight neck behind, requires the top and center of back higher than a neck which leans forward.

Mr. J. B. West, in his “_Grand Edition_,” page 30, claims that the principle alteration from a normal to a stooping form consists in raising the center of the top of back (somewhere up to line A.) I certainly will not dispute the merits of Mr. West, but I must say that, like all mortals, he made mistakes, and the above is a “_Grand Mistake_,” especially when we read on page 5, that the problem he has worked on for fifteen years is now solved, and complete, and will stand without improvement, or alteration, as long as there is no change in the construction of the human form.

About thirty years have passed, and the human form has not changed, and still I claim, that the above alteration must be made in just a contrary way; that is, that the circle for the neckhole over the back must be more complete toward the center of back for a person who drops his neck downward and forward, and that the erect form or the straight form on the back of neck requires the circle straightened over the center of back, and will here repeat, that on the angle of 135 deg. a neckhole can be cut and fitted with a complete circle as seen in Dia. XI and XII. That part of the circle which passes through the back, say 2½ in. wide, sinks about ⅝ at the center of back, and this part must be straighter behind for a straighter neck, and may be made entirely straight for extremely straight backs.

Quite straight backs are usually long necks, and for such the center of back must be raised, whereas a short straight neck would require the sides lowered. How much more or less all this may be, must depend upon the judgment of the cutter, and as the whole thing turns within five-eighths of a number, a cutter cannot go far out of the way; but he should observe that a collar one half or even one quarter inch lower behind than at the sides, is a spoiled collar, and that a collar which is too high is easily cut down, but when it is too low it is hard to bring it up, unless there are outlets.

Some cutters may say that I am mentioning things which will do them no good, because they cannot go into all the details. This I admit, but others again will be glad to have a thing figured down, so that they need not bother their heads about it. But to illustrate: Let us suppose we have before us a round wooden pole 5 in. in diameter, representing the neck of a man. If we cut it straight through we can fit a collar to it with a square piece of cloth or paper. Such a square piece fits to the circumference of a pole, if wound around on horizontal lines. Next, let us suppose that we cut one end down, about 3 in., representing the forward and downward slope of the neck, and we find that a straight piece will not fit that slope, but must be hollowed out. Now, if we build shoulders to it, and a chest and shoulder blades, in fact take the form of a person for our model, we find that the neckhole of a garment goes around the top of a body sloping upward from all sides, though irregularly, but that a complete circle from the point of the angle of 135 deg. will fit the neck after 45 deg. have been taken out from its center, all of which will form an irregular circle or curve, while in any shape on the flat table; but will form an almost complete circle when sewed together and placed on the body. The neck itself is almost a complete circle, and the point of the angle of 135 deg. must be considered as the center of the neck, which is round, but to which cloth must be brought by irregular approaches. Now if we find a straight neck behind, with hardly any incline from the back forward, the garment must run straight up, too, and the circle for the neckhole must be straightened as far as the back goes; but if the neck slopes forward, the garment must turn forward also, and the edge of the circle over the back must form a more complete part of a circle.

But I must make another illustration: Take a piece of stiff paper, and cut out of it a half circle of say 4½ in. whole diameter, representing the neck of a 36 breast measure, or thereabouts. Take that circle and fit it to the neck of a man on horizontal lines, and the circle will fit the neck no matter where you apply it. Next try to fit it to the neck from the side, but on the slope of the shoulders, and the circle will be too round for the neck. Again, try to fit it from the slope of the back, and the difference between neck and circle will be still greater. Next, take a stove-pipe of 4½ in. diameter and try to fit it on that, and on perpendicular lines, and you will find that the circle cannot be used at all, but that a square piece must be used for that. If the neck were as wide as the shoulders, and the chest and the blades, that is, if the body would run straight up from these points, then the top edge could be fitted with nothing else but a square piece of cloth.

After all, the above pros and cons let me say that if Dia. II is used for the stooping form, place height of back ¼ to ¾ higher, and reduce the back of the sidepiece ⅛ to ¼ more, at the waist, and that is about the best alteration which will result from the description of the stooping form. Contrary: Placing height of back at 14½, and giving ⅛ to ¼ more spring at the waist will give a good proportion for the erect form. As to the difference of 1¼ numbers more or less back length over the blade, between the stooping and erect form, each cutter must judge for himself, for it cannot be measured on the human form.

Short persons with short necks and very flat shoulder blades, may be fitted with a height of back of 14¼ above line 9, and top of back at 3¾ and side of neck at 4. (See Odd Forms I.) Erect forms who throw their arms backward can be fitted by using a pattern one or two sizes too small, and by allowing the difference of ½ to 1 inch, as the case may be, on the front of the breast. If a cutter will put a coat, say two sizes too small on such a form, he will find that the back, the shoulders and the armhole fit, but that the front of breast is too small, and the extra size must be allowed there. This rule will work both ways, and the contrary may be applied for stooping forms.

[Illustration]

ODD FORMS.

During the summer of 1891, I reviewed such patterns which I had preserved for several years back, and I knew that they were good. I laid them out like Dia. II, IV, VIII, VIIIa and X, and they came as near together as could be expected, at least they came near enough so that a slight difference would make no difference in the fit, and I think I can give some valuable information if I give descriptions of some odd shaped garments, just as I found them.

I.—CUTAWAY FROCK COAT.

MODEL: DIA. II.

Breast, 40; Waist, 40; Hip, 41½; Seat, 40; Length of legs, 30. The seat measure and the length of legs are noted for the purpose of giving a better impression of the form. Form: Erect—square shoulders—short neck—height of back above line 9 is 14½—top of back, 3¾—side of neck, 4—bottom of armhole, ⅜ above 11¼. No gore under the arm, but a spring of ½ inch at line 18¼, on which line is also the waist length of the back. The waist seam drops 1¾ in front; is even in front and side, but laps ¾ over the gore in the forepart, which is ½ inch, running up to line 15. Front: Quaker Cutaway, with no lapel—standing collar—front of neck at 3¾—notch in center of 15 deg.—for the button hole side allow ⅝ in front of base, and for the button side ½ more. In front of line 9, allow ½ for both sides and meet base again in front of 11¼. At 15 go forward 3¼—at 20, 2½. Meet plumb base at 26½ and go back 3 at line 32½. Drop bottom of skirt ¾ at the base. Shoulder laps ⅜ at the neck and ½ toward the blade. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ⅜ at the armhole—meet at 10½—½ at 11¼—⅞ at 14½, on back—1⅜ at 15—1⅝ at 18¼,—1¼ at 20—⅝ at 25—⅞ at 30. Center of back is hollowed out ⅜ at 17½, and at line 30 the finished hook is 1¼ out.

II.—FROCK COAT.

Breast, 36; waist, 31; seat, 36. Form: Erect—square shoulders—full breast—very hollow back, which causes the shoulder blade to appear pretty prominent—waist diameter very small from side to side. This is a form which mostly has its coat back too long or too wide, and requires quite a close breast measure, or a small square and a full breast. An apparently long coat back behind the arm is caused when the seat has not enough spring. Model: Dia. II. Square of 17½. The height of back above line 9 over the front is 15 numbers—top of back 3½—side of neck 4. The shoulder seam is even at both neck and armhole, but toward the blade there is a lap of ½ inch, and which seam is for the square shoulder. Under-arm gore: ½ at line 15—⅞ at 17½—1 at line 18⅝, which is the length for the waist on the back—⅞ at 20. For the contracted waist length behind, the top of skirt, and the bottom of the back sidepiece seam is even, but lap ⅜ at the underarm gore—1 at the plumb line base—¾ in front. The bottom of the sidepiece is ⅜ higher behind, but when the coat is on, the run of the waist seam is even, on the erect form. At the waist the forepart has a gore of 1¼ starting at line 15. The front of breast is 1⅜ in front of 9—meets the front angle in front of line 15—and strikes the base at 32 for a cutaway. Spring center of back out from line 15: ½ at 20—1 at 25—1⅝ at 30, and then allow 1 in. for the hook. Gore between sidepiece and back: ¼ at the armhole—meets at 10½ on back—¾ at 11¼ over the front—1¼ at 15 on back—1½ at 15 over the front—1¼ at 17½—⅞ at 20—¾ at 25—¾ at 30.

III.—FROCK COAT.

Breast, 34, close measure; waist, 30; seat, 34½; length of legs, 29. Form: Erect—long neck—flat shoulder blades—all normal cut coats fall away from his neck—are too long and too wide in the back and too small in the breast. Model: Dia. II—the square was made 17¾—top of back 2⅝—side of neck 3—shoulders lap ⅞ at the neck and ½ toward the blade—height of back above line 9, 14½ numbers. Gore between back and sidepiece: ¾ at armhole—meets at line 11—½ at line 9 and 14½—¾ at 15—1 at 17½—⅝ at 20—meet again at 25 to 30—¼ at 35. Spring back from 15—allow ¾ at 25—1¼ at 30—and allow for the hook. The front is straight—single-breasted—the lapel is 3 in front of the base on top—3¾ in front of 11¼—meets the front angle at 15½—thence parallel with the plumb base. The waist seam is even at the underarm cut—skirt and front laps 1 at line 20, running so forward. Bottom of skirt sinks ½ in front. The vest had ¾ lap at the shoulder seam toward the neck and top of back was placed at 3⅛, and had a spring of 1¼ at the center of back at line 20. The vest was cut size 33, and ¼ inch allowed in front of the breast, which accounts for the small square and the full breast.

IV. MODEL: DIA. II.

Breast, 35; waist, 33; seat, 35. Form: A combination of stooping and erect—neck bends forward—arms thrown backward—shoulders thrown up and square—very hollow at the back of the waist but erect there—shoulder blades prominent—seat shows very little at the back—front of waist and front of thigh thrown forward—top of back 3¼—side of neck 3⅝—shoulder laps ⅜ at the neck—⅝ toward the blade. Side of shoulder 9⅛ at 60 deg. Height of back above line 9 is 15⅜. Underarm gore, ⅛ on line 9—½ at line 15—1 at 17½—¾ at 20. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ½ at the armhole—meet at 11½ on the back—½ at 11¼—¾ at 15⅜—1 at 15 over the front—1⅜ at 17½—1¼ at 20—½ at 25—¼ at 30—¼ at 35. The forepart has a gore of ½ at the waist seam, and the same gore between the skirt and forepart in front. Center of back: From 15⅜ upward allow ⅛ outside of the base, and come even again on top—from 15⅜ downward go inward of the base ¼ at 17½—meet again at 22—go out ⅜ at 30—⅝ at 35 for the center and allow for the hook, etc. Front: In front of 9 allow 1—meet front edge and front angle at 14—go out 3¼ at 20—1½ at 30—meet at 35. Sink front of skirt ⅝, and no lap between skirt and forepart at the waist seam except to straighten the forepart over the gore.

V.—LARGE-WAISTED SACK COAT.

MODEL: DIA. VIIIA.

Breast, 43; waist, 46; hip, 46; seat, 44; length of pants, 32 inches. Form: Large all around—prominent shoulder blades—square shoulders—arms thrown back—neck rather short—head and front of waist bent forward—sides of waist full—all normal cut coats are too high in the neck for this form. Square of 18¾, which is small but good. Top of back at 3⅜—side of neck 3⅞. Shoulder seam laps ½ at the neck and ⅝ toward the blade—at 60 deg., 9. Height of back above line 9 over the forepart, 12½. Underarm cut, 1, and stretched up ½. Side seam: even at the armhole, and down to 11¼—¾ at 15—1¼ at 17½—1½ at 20—⅞ at 25—⅜ at 30. Center of back: From line 17½ spring out ⅜ at line 25. Front: In front of point 9 give 1¼—meet the front edge at the front angle at 20—go out 5 at 25 and 4 at 30—which will give a pretty straight front, but runs a trifle backward at the bottom. On top of lapel allow 1½ in front of the front angle and cut a gore of ½ under the lapel and in the center of the angle of 15 deg. At the bottom sink the front ¾ at the base. Notice that the proportions are all small over the breast line, but full in front, and also full at the side of waist, and will make a good coat for that size.

VI.—MODEL: DIA. VIIIa.

The breast size is the same as the preceding description, but the waist and hip are comparatively small. Breast, 43; waist, 41; hip, 43½. Form very erect and hollow in the back of waist—shoulders square—arms thrown back, requiring a small square for the back, and a full breast. Square of 18¼—under arm gore ⅜ at 11¼ and stretched up ⅜—height of back above line 9 is 12¼—top of back is at 3⅜ and side of neck 3⅞—shoulder seam laps ⅜ at the neck—side of shoulders, 9—gore between side and back: even at armhole—even at 11¼—1¼ at 15—1¾ at 17½—2 at 20—1¾ at 25 and 28. Center of back spring: ¾ at line 25, starting at 17½—cutaway front. Allow 1 in front of 9—meet front edge and front angle at 15—3¼ in front of 20—2½ at 25—meet at 28.

VII. A VEST FOR A LARGE WAIST.