Part 6
Such are points which nobody will ever be able to teach to a certainty, or to learn from the books. All that can be done by a teacher is to point out causes and effects and approximate amounts for alteration; and a cutter must use his brains to pass judgment as to the amount taken off here, and given there, in each individual case, and that the ever varying forms of men will require an ever watchful cutter to fit it with such garments as a changeable fashion from time to time requires. Learning rules or going to cutting schools and hanging up a diploma near the cutting board don’t make successful cutters. After receiving certain instructions, a cutter must get the “_right hang_” of it by experience, and if he is a “_natural born_” cutter, he can use a horse shoe or a boot jack for his rule, and he will succeed as easily as a fish learns to swim, but if he is not a natural born cutter, or it may be better said, a natural born Fitter, he must acquire the “_Art_” by hard study.
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STRIPES.
If Pants are cut from striped goods, the stripe should run parallel with the center line of the angle of 10 deg., both in front and back, though on the forepart it may be located an inch sidewise on the top of the waist; but the back part must have its stripe on that line. This is important to bear in mind, particularly on large pants, which are to be seen often with the stripe running inward or outward. On plain goods it makes no difference where the seams are cut, but on striped goods the forepart should be cut narrow at the side of the thigh, and broad at the side of the bottom in order to run the stripe parallel with the side seam.
It is quite an accomplishment to be able to determine the location of the seams on all kinds of pants without causing them to lose their balance. The top of the front may be cut ¼ full waist for the middle sizes, but the smaller sizes must be cut large enough to make room for the button-hole fly and the pockets. On large-waisted pants, it may save a good deal of piecing to cut the top of the forepart broad, and even as wide as the angle of 7½ deg., and then cut the pockets forward independent of the side seam; but if the material is striped, the stripe will be too crooked over the center of the front. On the front, the stripe may run 1 in. to the side of the top of the center-line on all pants, but on large waists, it may run 2 in. sidewise on top. On the back the stripe must run with the center line.
On a vest the stripes should run at right angles with the pockets, and nearly parallel with the front edge. On all cut-a-way coats, run the stripe with the front plumb line. On the back, run it with the edge of the back tack, and with the edge of the side of the back skirt as well as with the edge of the front skirt, so that the stripes fit to the pleat; but on straight coats, the stripes should run parallel with the front edge, even if the back edge is a trifle bias.
On the side-piece, the stripe should run nearly with the back when they are sewed together, and at the same time the stripe of the side-piece and skirt below should run nearly in the same direction, or as near as possible. On the sleeve, the stripe should run with the front sleeve base.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
COAT AND VEST BASES AND THE ANGLE OF 135 DEGREES.
Scale: One-half breast and 2½ in., divided into 20 parts. The common inch produces breast size 35. Bases: See Fig. I and II and Dia. XI and XII. Fig. I shows the angle of 135 deg. to be applied in measuring the shoulder slope. The angle of 135 deg. is the base. The cutter is to find the variation, which is seldom over ⅜ inch higher or lower, but the angle of 135 deg. will fit 49 in every 50 cases. Fig. I shows the angle of 135 deg. over the back as well as over the front. In this position the two angles of 135 deg. cover two backs and two fronts.
The center of the back and center of the front represent the center of each angle of 135 deg., as the center of back and front, a hole being cut for the neck to pass through. Dividing the angle of 135 deg. in the center of the back or center of the front leaves half an angle of 135 deg. on each side of the back and each side of the front. The two halves again united will form another full angle of 135 deg. placed on the body, as shown on Fig. II with the front line running forward 15 deg. of the plumb line, and after a hole is cut for the neck the back line can fall down to the center of the back, closing into the top of the shoulder, for the shoulder slope is within the angle of 135 deg.
Taking away 15 deg. in front of the plumb line leaves 120 deg., or 2 points of the circle, as shown in Dia. XI and XII, each containing 60 deg. The center of the 120 deg. and the center of 135 deg. represent a space at the top of the shoulders, which may be used for the shoulder straps on military or society coats. The shoulder seam is cut through according to style or notion, and the forepart and side connected under the arm with the center of the back and the center of the front running parallel, as in Dia. I; or the back running parallel with the plumb line, as in Dia. II.
Either the front or back line may be used as a base, as in Dia. I, or the back line and plumb line, as in Dia. II. With the help of the diagrams, the bases ought to be plain to everyone. Yet the following in addition might be said: The angle of 135 deg. is ⅜ of a circle; cut on the double, it will give ¾ of a circle when spread apart. Three-fourths of a circle represents 3 squares, and a vest or coat, or any garment worn around the neck and shoulders, consists of a ¾ circle, or of 1 circle less 1 square. (See Dia. XI and XII.)
When the square is cut away from the center of the circle, and a hole cut in the center large enough for the neck to pass through, and the front edges are again connected, then it will fit the whole outside of the human form, except the sides below the arm. The square cut out of the circle takes away all shoulder slope. Each of the two backs and fronts requires a reduction of 22½ deg., as shown in Fig. I; hence, 4 times 22½ deg. will take up the full amount for both shoulders. If each back and each front requires a reduction of 22½ deg., it will require 45 deg. or half a square to be cut out on each side of the body, as in Dia. IV and V. Thus the bases are:
1st. The full circle.
2d. Three-fourths of a circle.
3d. Three-eighths of a circle, or 135 deg., for the center of the back and front.
The angle of 135 deg. is again divided into 4 main parts, as 90, 45, 30 and 15 deg., and may be divided into as many minor divisions as fancy will admit, or points to be found in the variation of garments, as in Dia. XII-A.
To measure the shoulder slope as shown in Fig. I, is a thousand times better, and more reliable, than the so-called upper and lower shoulder measures, or whatever such measures may be called. But for all that, actual practice in taking this measure will show, that even here some guess work must be done, and while I have said elsewhere that the shoulder slope should be measured, and that it can be measured, as indicated in Fig. I, yet it is equally true that that measure can be learned to be taken by sight, and such eye-sight measure may be acquired in one week, or after handling and measuring one dozen persons. After the eye of a cutter has caught the normal form of the shoulders, his eyesight will teach him most all variations, as good as a measure. That measure, taken by eyesight, or with any other instrument, must be taken over a coat with a good-fitting shoulder, or better, over a good-setting shoulder; for a shoulder may fit the body and still may not set well.
Again I must repeat this warning: Be slow in making changes, especially at the shoulder seam, for Dia. II will fit 49 out of every 50 persons, providing the sleeve does not drag the shoulder out of place.
The single garment, spread upon a flat surface, represents a circle, less one square, or less 90 deg., or a reduction of 45 deg. at each shoulder; but it must not be supposed that the form of Dia. XI, after having the edges of the square connected again, will form a slope like the shoulders of a human form, that is a slope of 22½ deg. The shoulder slope is calculated at 22½ deg., but that is only on each side of the body, and the center of the front, and the center of the back run down more straight, and in order to bring the ¾ of a circle, like Dia. XI, in harmony with the shoulders, the centers of back and front must be pushed nearly straight down, and then the sides will rise up, and form the slope for the shoulders.
If Dia. XI is cut from a piece of stiff paper, and the edges of the square are connected, and that circle formed in one continuous shape, like that of a lamp shade, it will form a slope of 30 deg., or near that slope, and corresponds to all diagrams, with a square of 17½, and with the plumb line base in front, from which base the shoulder slope is 30 deg., as shown in Dia. IX.
Here it will be noticed that the bases, as adopted in this work, mean something more than imaginary lines. They mean actual slopes of the human form, and quantities which are parts of the square or compass, and which instruments are known and used by all civilized nations.
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[Illustration]
SQUARES OF SEVENTEEN AND A HALF AND TWENTY.
The squares of 17½ and 20, and lines 9 and 11¼, are both permanent bases. But the lines which connect the back to the foreparts, or to the side piece, or join lines 9 and 11¼ over the front, require especial explanation. Line 9 on the front base of the angle of 135 deg., and line 11¼ on the front plumbline, meet in the center of the square of 20 and in the position as indicated on Dia. II. Line 9 is broken between the side-piece and back, and turned 15 deg. upward, but will be of the same space as the square of 20 when the side-piece and back is connected. The square of 17½ is one-eighth less than the square of 20, and harmonizes with the division of the circle, as shown on Dia. XII.
In both Dia. XI and XII, the circle has a full diameter of 40 numbers, and the triangle as shown in Dia. XII, has 35 numbers on each line, making an equi-lateral triangle. One-half of the circle is used as a square of 20, as in Dia. XI. One-half of the triangle is used as a square of 17½ as in Dia. XII. The square of 20 represents the amount used for the whole half vest, seam and surplus included, and the square of 17½ represents the half breast measure. The correct combination of the square of 20 and 17½, can only be used on a vest with one seam in the center of the back, and one seam under the arm. On coats the square is enlarged on account of more seams and other reasons elsewhere explained; but for all that, the squares of 20 and 17½ are a true guide for all coats. It will be seen that the squares of 20 and 17½, as used in this book, are not imaginary lines, but based upon a scientific calculation from the center of a circle or the corner of a square, which are used by the whole civilized world as points, or fixed facts.
By further examination of Dia. XI and XII, it will be found that all the essential points necessary in cutting a vest can be found within a circle, and without using a scale—all of which is further explained in the article entitled, “Scientific Calculation.” Another reason why lines 9 and 11¼ on the front bases are adopted, is the following: Lines 9 and 11¼ meet in the center of the square of 20. Line 9 runs at right angles with the center of the front. Line 14 on the back runs at right angles with the center of back. When the garment is upon the body, both run in the same direction, are in their natural positions, and on a square of 20.
For the reason that the vest is cut off below the waist, it can be cut on the square of 20 without piecing the pattern. But on a coat this cannot be done without piecing the pattern, and in order to obtain a draft or a pattern, without lap or piecing, the square of 20 is transformed into an angle of 15 deg., which contains the square of 17½ as for a vest, to which is added one-half for one extra seam, and which one-half more causes the squares of a frock coat to be 18 and 20½. And for reasons explained further on in this article, and in Dia. III, a three-seamed sack must have the same squares as that of a frock coat of five seams.
The following points must be well observed: Dia. II has a square of 18, or half an inch extra on the plumb line base, which half an inch is allowed for one extra seam. The square of 17½ would answer the same purpose if each side piece and each forepart was allowed one extra seam; but this would cause the pattern to be pieced, or allowance would have to be made for one seam, which will always be found troublesome, and for this reason the square is enlarged to 18. But, to be more definite, the square should be 17½ and half an inch for all sizes, because if ½ an inch is allowed for a seam, this seam requires the same for all sizes. Perhaps ⅜ inch will do the same, or maybe better for a snug fit, particularly for fine work, where ⅜ of an inch is amply sufficient for a seam; but I call it ½ an inch for the reason that ¼ of an inch more or less in an entire coat is nothing, particularly when we must admit that no two cutters will take the same measure, and that very few cutters are able to take the same breast measure twice with the same result, if done so in using a blank tape.
Though the square of 18 will result in a square of 20½, we find that if we observe Dia. II correctly, the back square, which ends at point 15, on the center of back, sinks below line 11¼ in front, and becomes larger and consequently a reduction is made at that line between the back and side piece, in order to re-establish the square of 20. Again, if we observe Dia. III, or the combination of frock and sack (and the vest as well,) we find that by turning the sidepiece forward at the waist it will turn backward about ½ inch at the shoulder blade, and although the top of the sidepiece and back lap ½, the square remains 18 for a three-seamed sack coat, the same as for a frock. The fact that I did not observe this simple point at the beginning, but made the square of a three-seamed sack ½ less than a frock coat, caused me to devote years in making alterations.
Dia. III is the best combination of frock, sack and vest, which I have been able to secure in 10 years of diligent study. Though the vest is not shown on it, because too many lines spoil the illustration, but anybody may observe the sameness in Dia. XII. Now, supposing the vest to be put in Dia. III, we simply reduce its square ½ under the arm to make it 17½ and place the height of back at 14. The combination places the different backs at the following height above line 9. Frocks at 14¼, vests at 14, and sacks at 13½. The squares of 18 and 20½ are, of course, for a coat, but this does not destroy the principle of cutting a vest over the same pattern, simply reducing it ½ inch in width under the arm, and cutting the top of the back ½ lower, or 3¾, as shown in the Vest Dia.
Neither the square of 20 nor the square of 17½, nor the angle of 15 deg., nor any other angle or square, will fit the body precisely, either of which must be adjusted to the requirements of the form; but when we know what a certain square or angle represents, and how they harmonize with the slopes of the body, we can very easily deduct or add to, as the case may require.
Now, although certain garments require more or less in the square, I will, in comparing, always mention the squares of 17½ and 20 as on a vest, for the reason that line 11¼ meets line 9 at its center—that is, at the center of the square of 20—from which point all calculations are made for turning or changing the lines over the back. The square of 17½, with the angle of 15 deg. attached in front, produces both squares 17½ and 20 on this particular spot, though the square of 20 is broken on line 9; and within the squares of 17½ and 20 all calculations are made in the article on “Narrow and Broad Backs.” By the terms: square of 17½, or 18, or 20, etc., I mean to say that the distance from the centre of the back to a certain base in front is such a distance. It may be that if I should say: a right angle, so and so far from back to front, would be better grammar, but I think, a square of so and so much will be fully as well, and may be better understood by the majority of cutters and tailors.
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DIAMETER OF BOTH SHOULDERS FROM SIDE TO SIDE.
This article was written as long as ten years ago, and I have often thought to omit it, but have come to the conclusion that it is worthy of a place, and in fact, I may build better than I expect. Dia. V, VI, IX, and all others with a square of 17½ represent the diameter of the shoulders from side to side, either on the half, as Dia. V and VI, or the full, as in Dia. IX and others. Fig. I represents the full diameter, but cut in two at the center of the body. The width of the shoulders may be measured, but ordinarily that measure may depend more upon the condition of the garment over which it is to be taken, than upon the body itself. As a rule, that measure should be taken only for extremely narrow or extremely broad shoulders, and even then, there must be a good deal of guess work. As long as we allow the width of the shoulders 9¼ at 60 deg. we will never miss the mark from size 35 down to the smaller sizes. When we come to size 40 we have enough with 9 to 9½. Forty-three is plenty wide with scant 9, and size 50 is large enough with 8¾. Here is a difference of ½ number on each side of the coat, in 25 sizes, and that calculation can be depended upon. The width of the shoulders does not grow in proportion to the circumference of the breast, and in cases of doubt as to how much to allow at 60 deg., it is better to allow ¼ inch too little than ¼ inch too much. A shoulder which hangs too far over to the arm, and which is often noticed on large sizes, is worse than a shoulder which is too narrow. Again, a broad shoulder requires a scant sleeve head, while a narrow shoulder can stand more fullness on the sleeve head.
But I have started out to describe the shoulder of a man, as they may be narrow or broad, and in order to be quite plain, I will take up size 35, and use the term inches, for this particular article. On a draft of a size 35 the width of one shoulder, from back to side, is about 8 in., and which is ¾ inches less than the half square of 17½, but the ¾ inches are used up for seams. On top of the shoulders, the body is nearly flat, both across the back and front, and it is quite flat on a great many persons, but for our purpose all may be called entirely flat, and that part can be measured with a straight edge when the coat is on the body.
On this part, and above, the coat must swing the same as a piece of cloth will swing on a straight pole. If that part of a coat fits nicely, a great many other faults are usually forgiven, but if the shoulder breaks somewhere, complaint will be made. It will be seen by this, that the square of 17½ is not an imaginary quantity, but that it is in actual harmony with the shoulders, the same as the angle of 15 deg. is in harmony with the forward slope of the center of front. There is the square for a regular part of the form, and the angle of 15 deg. is for a irregular part.