CHAPTER XLVI
SYDNEY
[Sidenote: 1850. April 26.]
Made at noon the south head of Botany Bay.
3 P.M.--Between the heads entering Port Jackson. While running up, exchanged numbers with the _Havannah_, 20, Captain J. E. Erskine, and the _Rattlesnake_.
Came to in Farm Cove; making a running moor. I now heard of the death of my dear father.
My old friend Erskine was in charge of the Australian station, and naturally felt jealous of the intrusion of a captain who was his senior.
It was far from me to interfere, but the death of poor Owen Stanley obliged me to open the directions of the Hydrographical Office before he could be buried. In fact, I was recalled from a tour I was enjoying with Sir Charles Fitzroy.
The Hydrographical instructions were simple enough, stating, in case of the death of the captain, or any other, the officer who was to succeed. Acting upon them, I gave Lieutenant Yule orders to take command of the _Rattlesnake_. This offended Erskine; who informed me that, on my departure for the Pacific, he would supersede my acting order.
[Sidenote: May 2.]
The _Rattlesnake’s_ time was up, so I gave her the order to return to England, and remained in harbour long enough to give her twenty-four hours’ start. She sailed May 2.
[Illustration: _The_ Rattlesnake]
[Sidenote: May 3.]
We left Port Jackson in continuation of our route for Port Nicholson and Auckland; but, the wind heading, we stood for Norfolk Island, which we made on the evening of May 7; and hove to.
[Sidenote: May 8.]
Next morning some of the officers started in a whale-boat that had been sent by the Governor. There being an awkward sea running, they capsized off the end of the rickety pier. Owing to precautions taken and the activity of convicts, no lives lost. Unaware of this accident, I followed with young Leicester in the gig, and, waiting for an auspicious moment, we landed safely.
From outside, Norfolk Island has the appearance of a lonely rock, but is very different on shore.
Mr. Price, the Governor, kindly took us a charming ride to Mount Pitt, and showed us the military barracks, which are capable of holding a regiment.
The convict houses are three storeys high, fitted for all sorts and conditions of men; some it was necessary to confine in huge iron cages. Their language, addressed to us strangers, was uncommon strong! There were 115 of these ruffians separately confined. I saw three chapels, Protestant and Catholic. Every trade was encouraged: shoes, boots, coats, and trousers that would have caused envy in the bosoms of Hoby and Stultz. I was glad when the Governor took us to higher land and change of scene.
We were soon passing through orange and lemon groves and wooded scenery.
The fir peculiar to the island was conspicuous. The india-rubber tree was in full force. Some of the officers from the ship had joined us. The youngsters soon found out that, by striking the drooping plant with a stick, the juice ran out like cream, which no marine servant could extract from a uniform cloth jacket. To spoil this fun the Governor thought it advisable, unless we liked to remain the night, that we should be getting down to the boats. The same whaler took them off. I preferred the gig in which we had landed.
Every precaution was taken by the Governor and his officers in case of a capsize. In addition to convicts in cork-jackets, there were others with large round corks netted over with long cords attached, that could be thrown a great distance.
In the gig, in addition to young Leicester Keppel, I had some fir-plants of the island, and other odds and ends. Our boat bow was scarcely abreast of the pier head, when a roller lifted the bow into the air and turned over on us.
The only precaution I had taken was to get rid of my uniform jacket. I believe a capsize is always great fun for the convicts. On my asking to whom I was indebted for my life, a convict informed me that his name was Emerson, and that he had been in the service of my father.
[Illustration: _Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island._]
I found later that Emerson had been employed at Newmarket, and having “done his horses down,” was taking a stroll in the evening when he came across an old gentleman who did not seem to know his way, and “borrowed his watch.” I had three sovereigns in my pocket, and offered them to him, but he said they were no more use to him than the same number of buttons! I mentioned his case to the Governor, who would see to it.
Norfolk Island was, in 1787, colonized by Captain Philip King, R.N., by free settlers and prisoners from New South Wales. In 1809 a combined, but unsuccessful attempt was made by the settlers, the military, and the prisoners, to take possession of the island.
Our second attempt to reach the ship was successful. At sunset filled, and made sail.
[Sidenote: May 11.]
If my readers are sick of the sea, or sea-sick, I advise them to skip the journal until the 19th of June.
Since leaving Norfolk Island, the wind, with a strong lee set, prevented our reaching Auckland by the northern route.
[Sidenote: May 19.]
We entered Cook’s Straits, and in the evening came to off Port Nicholson.
[Sidenote: May 20.]
10 A.M.--Weighed and attempted to work up under double-reefed topsails, with topgallant sails over, but were obliged to come to again with both bower-anchors between Barrett reef and the eastern shore in the afternoon.
[Sidenote: May 21.]
Wind lulled, weighed, ran up, and came to in Lampton Harbour. Found our fore-yard sprung.
[Sidenote: May 24.]
At noon fired a royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s Birthday.
[Sidenote: May 25.]
Weighed and made sail, running down the harbour. Before, however, we could get clear of Pencarrow Head, we were met by a strong southerly breeze; reefed topsails, and worked out by sunset.
The breeze outside freshened to a gale, against which we worked all night!
[Sidenote: New Zealand, May 26.]
At daylight found ourselves off Cape Porirua; bore up. At 10.30 A.M. came to with both bower-anchors in 23 fathoms, off Kapiti Island. The anchorage none of the best, but any port in such a storm as that we had just taken shelter from.
[Sidenote: May 28.]
Weighed at 5 A.M. to a light N.E. wind, and ran along the land.
[Sidenote: June 2.]
Came to in 7 fathoms in Waitemata Harbour.
Port Nicholson and Auckland are both splendid harbours.
Much to be done, which British capital and enterprise will achieve. At present there is neither watering nor landing-place. As a proof of the latter, the port captain at Auckland visited the ship in a pair of long jack boots--his usual costume! These colonies are rapidly rising into importance.
[Sidenote: June 8.]
Weighed and stood out of the harbour.
[Sidenote: June 9.]
Worked into the Bay of Islands. Came to in Kororareka Bay. Did not find the facility we hoped for in obtaining spars.
The town contains but few inhabitants, and was reduced to half its former size, by shot-holes in the church and other buildings, made during the war with the brave Heki. The bay, however, deserves all the praise that has been bestowed upon it.
[Sidenote: June 10.]
Weighed at 8 P.M., made sail, and ran out of the bay.
[Sidenote: June 13.]
Breeze freshened into a northerly gale, which, veering round to N.E., blew hard and reduced us to a close-reefed main topsail.
[Sidenote: June 14.]
First cutter washed away. More moderate towards afternoon.
[Sidenote: June 19.]
Made the land at daylight; not an inviting coast for a stranger.
Fired a signal gun and got a native pilot.
[Illustration: _A Coral Island._]
Noon.--Came to in 13 fathoms off the capital of Tonga Tabu, Malanga. The coast is bound by a coral reef about 200 yards in width, inside which boats will float at low water, when landing is disagreeable.
[Illustration: _A Stockade._]
The island is well managed by an English missionary, who had King George well under control.
In the afternoon His Majesty came on board, and was received and entertained with due honours.
He is a Christian and intelligent, but rather too prejudiced against the French for his own interests. The King once got into a scrape. Drifting about in his canoe on a Sunday, he observed a huge turtle floating in the warmth of the sun.
His Majesty could not resist the temptation, but quitting his canoe, swam carefully up and grasped the hind-fins of the turtle; which, with so much stern weight, could not dive, but was able to make rapid headway with his fore-fins, and towed His Majesty a good mile before he let go. The King got severely reprimanded for his desecration of the Sabbath.
I visited the two schools, crowded with promising children of both sexes. Tonga Tabu is a fertile island with an industrious population.
[Sidenote: June 22.]
Weighed. It was curious navigation between the coral reefs. Suddenly, while weighing, a flaw of wind veered and caused our stern to touch the edge of a coral bank, with 80 fathoms under our chains. She was easily backed off.
[Sidenote: June 25.]
We started with a fair wind, which turned into a gale.
[Illustration: Mæander _in a Gale_.]
We had not many pets, but the purser had a gray parrot, the right African sort, who would not talk or be taught, and was voted a nuisance.
[Sidenote: June 26.]
During one of our frequent squalls, in a lee lurch, everything was capsized and sent to the scuppers, some of us sent off our legs, decanters, tumblers, lamps, the parrot’s cage, etc. In the midst of broken crockery and glass, a voice was calling out “Abaft there!” “A glass of grog!” It was this much-abused parrot!
Ship under close-reefed topsails, main trysail, and fore-staysail. Weather soon moderated.
[Sidenote: June 29.]
We were now drawing towards Tahiti, carrying a mail from Sydney.
[Illustration: _Point Venus, Tahiti._]
[Sidenote: July 8.]
Late in the afternoon a sail was reported, which we made out, from the round sort of baskets at the fore- and main-topmast-heads, to be a whaler; she had boats in the water. We hove to. She hoisted American colours: her captain came on board--a respectable-looking old salt, with gray hair.
Invited him to my cabin, where, with accompaniments of Manila cheroots and Jamaica rum, we had an agreeable chat.
On his leaving, I presented him with a box of cheroots, saying we had been six months without European news.
On which he “guessed” that I must be aware of the war between France and England.
He evidently noticed my astonishment, and added that the French Admiral was at sea looking for the English fleet.
We shook hands and so parted. It was then too dark to see the name of his ship. We made sail.
I invited the First Lieutenant to consult on the news we had received. It was decided that we would load every gun with round shot, grape, and canister.
[Illustration: _Tahiti Harbour._]
[Sidenote: July 9.]
Soon after daylight we were off the harbour, and at about seven the English pilot we had heard of, but accompanied by a French officer, undertook the steerage.
I was so interested at the navigation between coral banks, the beauty of the harbour, the merchant ships, two fine frigates, with sundry small craft, that I quite forgot about the guns.
[Illustration: _Bowyear._]
Had my gig manned, and directed Bowyear first to salute the Admiral’s flag, and when he saw me leaving to salute the Governor and French flag.
He replied: “You forget, sir, that we have round shot, grape, and canister in every gun. I have nothing but this scoop to draw them, nor can we get outside against the sea-breeze to empty them. I could not fire a pistol here without hitting some one.”
I had, however, to call on the Governor. On getting alongside the flagship, an officer informed me that I should find him at the Government House,
On landing I was received by His Excellency in full dress, a guard of honour with band playing our National Air, and all officers attending. I never felt so guilty or so small.
The Governor, M. Bonard, Capitaine de Vaisseau and Commodore, who included in his person that of Governor and Naval Commander-in-Chief, kindly put his arm in mine and led me away into his house, where he said luncheon would be getting cold.
[Illustration: _Eimeo._]
They all spoke or understood English as well as myself. The luncheon was excellent, wine to match, and I was hungry.
After a while the Governor drew his chair near to mine, and, without alluding to my not having fired the usual salutes, stated that they were six months without news from Europe; and that if ever so small a yacht or strange fishing-vessel hove in sight, it caused excitement. Telescopes were brought to bear, and he said, “You may imagine the appearance of a British frigate----”
[Illustration: _Inland Scenery._]
Before I could commence my explanation he added, “Every five minutes I am receiving reports of the withdrawal of round shot, grape, and canister from every gun in your frigate.”
I then explained my interview with the master of the American whaler.
Every one of the gallant French captains rose without a moment’s hesitation, shook me by the hand, expressing a hope that under similar circumstances their officers would have done the same!
In due time the salutes were fired and returned, and we mixed as one family. I have ever found French naval officers perfect gentlemen.
Monsieur Gizholme, Lieutenant commanding the _Cocyte_ steamer, managed everything: balls, dinners, dances, picnics in a lovely and interesting country. Brierly meanwhile happy with his sketch-book.
[Sidenote: Tahiti.]
Among guests I had the honour of entertaining Queen Pomare. She had been, and appeared very happy, and was treated with every kindness and attention.
Monsieur D. P. Nicolai, commanding the troops, added considerably to my collection of shells.
I had the pleasure of renewing acquaintance in the Baltic with Commodore Bonard, with Gizholme, and other officers.
[Sidenote: July 18.]
Having come from the west, owing to our difference in longitude, found I had a day to spare, which was a good excuse for lingering in Tahiti, therefore we gave ourselves a second “Thursday, July 18.”
[Sidenote: July 21.]
Pilot on board, weighed. Having saluted the French flag and that of Commodore Bonard, stood over for the island of Guimo. Came to in 19 fathoms in Opuum Harbour, where we have a depot of coals wasting for want of covering. This is likewise a beautiful and well-sheltered harbour with good fresh water easily obtained.
[Sidenote: July 23.]
Weighed at daylight; ran out of harbour. Worked over to Papeete to land our pilot and pick up their mail. 10 P.M.--Boat returned filled, and made sail to the northward of the island.
[Sidenote: Valparaiso, Aug. 23.]
After a month’s light and variable winds, saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, flying on board _Inconstant_, 36, Captain John Shepherd.
We were towed into the anchorage by the boats of French and English men-of-war.
There were besides _Driver_, steam sloop, 6, Commander C. Johnson; _Champion_, 14, Commander John Hayes.
[Illustration: _A Coral Atoll._]
On my reporting myself to the Commander-in-Chief, he informed me he had two reprimands from the Admiralty--one for the affair at Macao, and the other for interfering with the senior officer on the Australian Station.
I applied, in proper form, through my Admiral, to the Board of Admiralty for two courts-martial.
The Admiral informed me that the _Inconstant_ had a freight on board and was homeward bound, but that I being senior, and _Mæander_ longer in commission, might take freight out of _Inconstant_ and so go home, or remain on the station for another year and take the chance of picking up a freight myself.
It took me but a few minutes to decide, knowing, too, that such arrangement would exactly suit Captain Shepherd, officers, and men of both ships as well as friend Brierly.
The Admiral’s was a charming establishment. Besides Mrs. Phipps Hornby, and her sister Mrs. Parker, there were three daughters. Their son, Geoffrey, was Flag-Lieutenant.
They were in the house lately vacated by the Admiral’s predecessor, Sir George Seymour, where they were sure to find good stabling if nothing else.
[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
This morning our Chargé d’Affaires, Mr. William Pitt Adams, arrived from Lima, bringing me a letter of thanks from Lord Palmerston for the prompt way in which I had acted at Macao.
[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
Joined royal salute in commemoration of the Prince Consort’s birth.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
At sunset hoisted Admiral’s flag, _Inconstant_ having sailed for England.
[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]
Matthew Ash, captain of mizen-top, while on leave was murdered by one of the crew of a Chilian frigate, who was subsequently apprehended.
Ship caulking inside and out, not before it was needed.
Watered ship from the luxury of a tank.
[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]
_Asia_, 84, Captain Robert F. Stopford, arrived, to whom was transferred the Admiral’s flag.
[Sidenote: Sept. 18.]
Fired royal salute in commemoration of Chilian Independence.
[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]
Kindly invited to join Admiral’s party to witness a rancho: which means to drive wild cattle over a space of eighty to a hundred square miles into a strong enclosure.
Our preparations were amusing, especially to our pretty lady companions, who looked as if they had never been out of the saddle.
[Illustration: Mæander _at Valparaiso_.]
We started after luncheon for our 10-mile ride to Pitama.
The accommodation afforded by our ranchero host was a long low building, having a floor, but no ceiling, mere wooden truckle-beds to sleep on.
The Admiral and family took possession of one end, we, the other: within hail, but outside talking distance.
[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
We were up early, but the wild cattle were already in a disturbed state: bulls and pigs, horses and cows rushing across each other. The rancheros or drivers had been out a week. The ground was rough and varied, but nothing stopped our fair riders.
It was dusk before half the cattle within the outer ranchero could be secured. Torches added to the wildness of the scene.
The unbroken horses that had been captured by the young rancheros, and ridden when their own knocked up, began to lie down.
The ladies of our party, who had ridden the whole day, appeared as fresh as their brother; but the Admiral, who was as hard as nails, himself made the signal to return home.
I always regarded him with admiration and respect. He had commanded the _Volage_ in our Norfolk hero’s, Sir William Hoste’s, frigate action off Lissa.
[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]
Weighed from Valparaiso Roads on our northern cruise.
Later I saw _Driver_ standing out. She was a full-rigged ship and what our American friends called a “side wheeler.” Her captain was under the delusion he could beat us sailing, but our three topsails only were sufficient to convince him of his mistake.
[Sidenote: Coquimbo, Sept. 27.]
Came to in Coquimbo Bay.
[Illustration: _Coquimbo._]
While cruising in my gig I observed an ancient-looking church, and landed to inspect it.
Like other Catholic churches it had the usual images; but I noticed over a side door a white marble slab, on which was engraved: “En el año 1578 esta iglesia ha sido profanado par el pirata ingles Francisco Draki.”
Sailed 28th.
[Sidenote: Callao, Oct. 5.]
Arrived in Callao Roads. Found United States _Vandalia_, also _Naiad_ with stores and topgallant-yards across.
Saluted Peruvian flag with twenty-one guns.
Much to the distress of Commander William Browne I had directions to convert the once beautiful frigate _Naiad_ into a store-ship.
[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]
Weighed and made sail. Observed French Commodore Fourichon standing for Callao.
A fresh south-easter carried us across the Equator in 113° west, after which we had a long and tedious voyage.
[Sidenote: San Blaas, Nov. 12.]
At daylight made Piedra Blanca de Tierre: a remarkable white rock, some twelve miles from the coast, appearing in the distance like a large ship. At noon came to in San Blaas Roads. Purchased cedar planks for making treasure boxes.
[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]
Came to in Mazatlan Harbour. Saluted the Mexican flag with twenty-one guns.
[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]
Saluted Mr. Charles Bankhead, English Minister, on his visiting the ship.
[Sidenote: Mazatlan.]
An English brig, the _Gazelle_, arrived at Mazatlan with a number of passengers from San Francisco, several of whom died on the passage from dysentery and other diseases contracted before embarking. The brig touched at Cape St. Lucas, where many of them landed and refused to return on board. The _Gazelle_ sailed; they came round in a boat a few days afterwards.
At the instigation of well-known characters calling themselves “lawyers,” and forming part of the Civil Courts of Justice, the passengers lodged a complaint against the Master of the _Gazelle_ for ill-treatment, and his having thereby been the cause of deaths on board.
At the request of the Captain of the Port I detained the _Gazelle_ and communicated with our Consul, who, on investigation, decided there were no grounds for complaint; but, on the contrary, they had received such treatment as I should have expected, knowing the high character of Mr. Wood, the master, whom I had met in India.
At a later date I received information to the effect that these “gentlemen lawyers,” Gaxiola and Cainow, had made an offer to the supercargo of the _Gazelle_, whom they met on shore, that they would cancel the proceedings against his ship for six hundred dollars.
I also heard that a like sum had been offered by them to the Captain of the _Gulnare_, an American brig under almost similar circumstances, but the Master not having the money, the brig now lies rotting in the harbour. I allowed the _Gazelle_ to proceed to sea, offering myself to answer any charges preferred against the Captain.
[Sidenote: Nov. 26, Mazatlan.]
The Governor of Mazatlan visited the ship and was saluted.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Foreign Consuls and party were entertained on board. Saluted them on leaving.
[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]
Sent launch in charge of Lieutenant Oldfield to communicate with merchants at Guyamas. The pinnace in charge of C. H. Johnstone, mid, left for San Blaas. At Mazatlan we moored head and stern on account of tides, with no room to swing. Ciervo Island, close by, is a convenient place, on which we repaired our boats and landed the blacksmith’s forge, the men working under the eye of the officers on board. The centre of the island was tall bush, so that the opposite side could not be seen except from the masthead.
[Illustration: _Sharks at Mazatlan._]
[Sidenote: Dec. 22.]
Departed this life George Fuller, A.B. He had been long lingering, and had an extraordinary twist in his backbone. He was buried at the back of the island with due honours. I was kindly entertained and had a room on shore, but by day was much away in the gig.
[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]
In the morning the First Lieutenant found the boatswain missing, and, later, the doctor. He began to smell a rat, but thought it advisable to say nothing. The dingey too was missing. On my coming on board Bowyear told me the surgeon, John Crawford, on hearing from his assistant of the death and burial of the poor fellow, whose backbone he coveted, was so excited that Bowyear stated that the ship’s company would not like to have the body disturbed; but the doctor was pertinacious, promising that he could manage it without anybody knowing. At midnight he and the boatswain landed in the dingey and hauled the small boat up on the beach.
[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
When I got on board, at muster, nothing had been seen of either the dingey or the boatswain.
At noon an American schooner, sailing near us with a cargo of sheep, hailed. Stating he “guessed” he had picked up one of our boats at sea, and casting off the painter, we received our dingey. Doctor and boatswain hid till midnight and got on board unseen.
The lagoons which succeed one another for several miles in a line with the coast to the northward were full of wild game. It is difficult to imagine prettier shooting. The water is not above three or four feet deep, and sufficiently wide to enable a gun on each side to drive the game. Care should be taken to drop your birds on the land, as alligators are in possession of the water.
One of the midshipmen and myself bagged fifty-two couple of ducks of various sorts in an afternoon.
Snipe are also plentiful. To get at the river there is an extensive bar to cross, which troubled our boats till they got used to it.