CHAPTER XXXVIII

THE _MÆANDER_

[Sidenote: 1848. Jan. 1.]

Adieu for a while to Quidenham. Farewell, dear father.

By rail to London. Business at Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]

Called with Brooke on Lord Ellesmere. Dined with Lord Auckland: agreeable company.

[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]

Early boat to Gravesend and Chatham. Ship beginning to look well.

[Illustration: Mæander _Fitting_.]

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Splendid boats; nearly finished. _Hydra_, friend Grey Skipwith sailing for Rio in command; good fellow as well as seaman.

[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]

Order from Admiral, to move to Sheerness.

Private letters from Admiralty to remain where we are! Cabins building for passengers.

[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]

Bent sails.

[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]

At 8.30 taken in tow by the _Charon_ steamer. Master attendant no nerve to move ship under canvas!

[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]

A party of friends and relations from London: a jovial party. Gave them the best I could, Admiral kindly lending his steam tender to take many of them back as far as Chatham.

[Sidenote: Sheerness, Jan. 19.]

Attempt to get out, but pilot not willing. Jolly party still on board.

My brothers remaining; also old Rouse, of Naval College 1822, and now from Greenwich school, as well as other friends.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

Slipped moorings at 11.30, and with the assistance of steam got as far as Little Nore. Brother George obliged to leave with his boy. Saluted Admiral, Sir Edward Durnford King.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

Stephenson and his boys, Augustus and Sussex, not able to remain longer.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

Early morning, the Launch paddled alongside with her small engine puffing away. Admiral had ship inspected by Captain Price, as much to his satisfaction as to mine.

[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]

Steamer alongside and fore and aft sails set--our nervous pilot got under way--nice breeze; made sail over the flats and cast off steamer, in which old friend Rouse went.

[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]

Brothers Tom and Edward, as well as Harvey, delighted with their sail. Nine, anchored at Spithead; breeze too fresh for wife to land in boat. Admiral kindly sent his tender. Dined with Admiral, Sir Charles Ogle.

[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]

To London by express train. Business at Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]

Returned to Portsmouth.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

At two o’clock Board of Admiralty, consisting of Lord Auckland, Lord John Hay, Milne, Eden, Ward, and Berkeley, with Lady Ellesmere and two charming daughters, came on board.

[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]

Leave-takings over, weighed from Spithead.

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

Party on board--Sir James Brooke, Mr. and Mrs. W. Napier, daughter and baby; Mr. Hugh Low, Mr. Spencer St. John, Mr. Scott, Captain Hoskins, Mr. Gwynne, my guest; Captain Peyton, and Lieutenant Müller, the latter a Norwegian naval officer.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

Breeze freshening from westward. Came to in Plymouth Sound at 10 P.M. with watch.

[Sidenote: Plymouth, Feb. 4.]

Landed with Lieutenant Oldfield. Met his father, who invited us to drive on the morrow. Visited George Goldsmith, now Flag Captain to Lord Dundonald on board _Wellesley_.

[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]

8 A.M.--Met on landing by Lieutenant Oldfield, whose mother had been found dead in her bed!

Attended with George Goldsmith a lecture on electricity by Captain Sir W. Harris--lightning conductors. Dined with Lady Hillyar, a good, dear old lady. She entertained Captains after the battle of Trafalgar, Gibraltar!

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Wind veering to N.W.; weighed from Sound. Stood out by Eastern Passage.

[Illustration: Mæander _leaving Plymouth_.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]

Wind back to W.S.W., accompanied by a smash of crockery. Appearance of worse weather.

[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]

Took shelter in Cork Harbour. Brooke and I dined with Admiral Mackay.

[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]

Took Mrs. and Miss Napier, and my young nephew, Leicester Keppel, to Cork. Sent valentines to Bijou Dalyell, Collier, and Georgie Johnson.

[Sidenote: Feb. 15.]

Wind veering round to northward; took leave of Admiral, and borrowed his latest newspapers. At 11 A.M. under weigh and stood out of Cork Harbour. Adieu to Europe.

[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]

Sea getting up; breeze freshening into a gale; ship plunging and rolling. Little Leicester announced that he was going to die. Smash among chairs and what was left of crockery.

[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]

At daylight Napier’s little boy, James Brooke, aged five months, was found dead in its bed. Sad blow to the parents. Supposed to have gone off in a fit. Poor Mrs. Napier--poor Napier! Nurse in hysterics.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Wind dead on end. Napier wretched. Leaden coffin made for the small thing; in evening screwed it down in a mahogany one, and covered over with a Union Jack, to be landed at Madeira.

[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]

Divine service performed in cabin. Gunroom table too crowded for my party to dine there. I had ever looked forward to the command of a frigate as the height of my ambition. I copy the following from Sir Spenser St. John’s book, he having been one of my passengers:--

There is no greater error in the world than turning vessels of war into passenger ships, particularly when ladies are concerned.

Every spot is occupied beforehand, so that the unfortunate passengers soon discover that they are _de trop_, and the comfort of the officers and discipline of the ship suffer from having a miscellaneous crowd of idlers.

Though every desire was shown by captain and officers to render passengers comfortable, it had but poor success! Mr. Scott, Mr. Hoskins, and myself were stuffed into one small cabin with only two beds; I had to resign myself to swinging in a hammock.

The main-deck guns, as far forward as the mainmast, were dismounted; the ports fitted in as windows, and the deck divided into cabins--the ship having the appearance of one of Mr. Green’s fine Indiamen, without the accommodation.

My cabin was called the “saloon,” my servants “waiters,” and when the ship gave an extra plunge, sundry “brandies and sodas” were called for.

[Sidenote: Madeira, Feb. 23.]

Anchored in Funchal Roads at daylight. Kindly received by Consul Stoddard, an old friend, celebrated for his hospitality. Youngsters on shore with different friends. Leicester staying with the Scott Surtees.

Brooke and I had the honour of dining with Her Majesty the Queen Dowager.

[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]

Duke of Saxe-Weimar, Princes Edward and Herman, Lord Northland, Major de Winton, Consul Stoddard, and a party came to visit and lunch on board.

Stoddard invited us to meet the two Princes and a party at dinner, and he also got up an expedition to see the _Corral_. A dance given by the officers was spoilt by dirty weather.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Band landed to perform at a picnic in Mr. Stoddard’s garden.

Brooke and I took our farewell dinner with Her Majesty, who, very prettily, drank health and happiness to wife and self, it being the anniversary of our wedding day, and also drank success to Brooke.

[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]

12.20 A.M.--Weighed from Funchal Roads; weather cold for the latitude.

[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]

Divine service performed in my cabin; it being still too cold for the quarter-deck, although getting warmer. Flying-fish and dolphins, as well as other indications of the tropics. Weather being fine, the youngsters commenced school in my fore-cabin.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Three successive good runs, 235, 238, and 234.

[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]

In the evening the ship was hailed by Neptune, who sent his messenger over the bows in a blaze of light; in witnessing the function the passengers got wet.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Neptune came on board and performed the usual foolery, 160 men underwent the operation of shaving amid much merriment and fun.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

Westley Richards, the well-known gun maker, had an agent, by the name of Bishop; a character, he had visiting cards on which he styled himself “The Bishop of Bond Street.” He was a dog-fancier, and restored many a lady’s lost dogs.

[Illustration: “_The Bishop._”]

When a regiment of Guards marched through Bond Street, I often saw “the Bishop” stand in front of his shop in his white apron, presenting arms with a double-barrelled gun.

He presented me with a thoroughbred Scotch terrier; of course the dog could have no other name than _Bishop_. It is difficult to take a thoroughbred across the Equator. Sailors are fond of animals, dogs in particular.

After leaving Madeira, one forenoon _Bishop_ was pronounced to be mad, foaming at the mouth, and snapping at everything, there was no mistake.

I was in the fore-cabin, through which he rushed; the youngsters at school, their legs dangling; but none were bitten. On his journey forward he encountered the sailmaker repairing a main-split topsail. One blow with a huge marling spike finished the poor dog.

I wondered afterwards what effect he must have had on a shark’s stomach. It was a mercy no one was bitten in the school cabin.

[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]

Made the island of Fernando Noronha.

This night a fine young A.B., George Robinson, in a fit of delirium got out of his hammock and jumped through a main-deck port, saying, “Good-bye, shipmates,” as he went. Boats were down on the instant, but to no purpose!

[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]

Preparing for painting cabin guns. Dined on deck, abaft mizen mast, screened in--much discomfort, but how fond people are of a change. Boat from an American whaler came alongside about sunset wanting _news_ only!

[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]

Close off the Port of Rio at daylight; had to wait the sea breeze. Glad to land passengers for a while. Found my old friend Tennyson d’Eyncourt in the _Comus_.

William Partridge, unfortunately invalided from _Grecian_, had gone home in the Packet.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Invalided Read. Poor fellow! Sorry to lose him, but no command of himself. With Brooke to call on our Minister, Lord Howden.

[Sidenote: Mar. 26.]

Napier tired of shore; came on board with belongings; a bore just now.

[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]

Determined, with my cargo, on not calling at Simon’s Bay. Provisioned accordingly. D’Eyncourt dined with me: his ship, the _Comus_, having committed the crime of getting on shore! it was necessary to heel her over in the River Plate. In doing this she lost her balance and found the bottom, this time in soft mud.

I believe the Plate takes its name from Plata (silver), but any water more like pea-soup in colour I never was in. (No time to apply for details to Admiral of the Fleet, Sir J. E. Commerell, G.C.B., V.C., A.D.C., who was midshipman on board _Firebrand_ at this time, and just going home for his examination as mate.)

However, with a fine crew and help of Captain Hope of _Firebrand_, they got the _Comus_ up, minus a keel, in which state my friend d’Eyncourt was taking her home with a good freight on board. There was a suspicious-looking clipper lying off the mouth of the harbour at the time, but he thought “a bird in the hand,” etc.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Got under way at daylight, and ran out with the land breeze. Breeze still holding, enabling us to make southing.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

My passenger friend Peyton, a very good fellow.

[Sidenote: April 6.]

[Sidenote: April 10.]

Dirty weather. Gig’s crew baling water out of fore-cabin. One of my cows dead, the other not much.

[Sidenote: April 19.]

In the forenoon made Prince Edward’s Island in 46° 23´ S. Not often made by ships going to India. Best and shortest route though!

[Sidenote: April 20.]

A slashing breeze. Twelve knots logged for eight successive hours. By log 274 miles, to which may be added 25--easterly set, making 299 miles.

[Sidenote: April 26.]

Once more within the limits of the East Indian Station (_Batta_), having crossed the 75° of longitude; good run of 270 miles by log.

[Sidenote: April 27.]

While at breakfast John Wallis, a fine young fellow, fell overboard from the main topsail yard-arm.

[Illustration: Mæander _hove to_.]

In lowering boats Comber fell out of the cutter: recovered much exhausted, but poor Wallis had sunk to rise no more alive, the sea had closed over him. He was only twenty-four, and Second Captain of the Top: a favourite with the ship’s company, who expressed a wish to send his mother, whom he supported, a day’s pay.

Lots of albatross and other sea-birds about; some endeavoured to flap Comber on the head with their powerful wings while he was in the water; much exhausted, but swam manfully.

[Illustration: _Comber in Danger._]

[Sidenote: May 2.]

Occasional heavy squalls, in one of which the chain bowsprit shroud carried away the bowsprit badly sprung; wind driving aft, enabling us to repair damages without altering course.

Spring in bowsprit was just outside the knight-heads and nearly through. Got spare boat’s masts out as supporters on each side; secure but not handsome, it enabled us to carry the jib with care.

[Sidenote: May 5.]

Miss Napier having this day attained her nineteenth year, champagne and a dance in the fore-cabin. Think there is something in the wind between her and Low!

[Sidenote: May 8.]

On referring to my _Dido_ log, curious how near together the running of the two ships over a space of seven thousand miles: never having been a hundred ahead of one another.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

Made Christmas Island at 3 A.M. A few days over six years since I did so in _Dido_.

[Sidenote: Singapore, May 14.]

Within the Straits of Sunda: squally weather. Master and self piloting ship past the numerous shoals: anchored off Singapore. Mail in.

[Sidenote: 1848.]

Stunning news of Revolution in France; Louis Philippe an exile in England; a Republic proclaimed, and other extraordinary facts.

Heard of Admiral Inglefield’s death at Bombay from wearing cocked hat in the sun. _Cambrian_ here with Plumridge, my old _Magicienne_ Captain, flying First-Class Commodore’s broad pennant!

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Brooke was received with all the honours due to a Governor, and on the following day preparations commenced for establishing the new colony of Labuan.

An office was opened in Singapore, and contracts received for the frameworks of temporary residences to be erected for the Government functionaries.

Singapore has now become a rich and extensive town. By no act of his life did Sir Stamford Raffles manifest greater discernment and foresight than by founding this settlement; steam then not dreamed of. It has become the emporium of all the trading communities of the Eastern Archipelago, as well as of that of extensive trade carried on by all nations with China and India. Here twice a month now come the steam-vessels of the Dutch from Batavia, of Spain from Manila, and our own from China, to meet the European mail.

Colonel Butterworth, the present Governor, has had roads opened in all parts of the island, and thrown substantial bridges across its streams. Met Captain M‘Quhae of the _Dædelus_, lunched with him.

[Sidenote: May 23.]

The Governor gave a ball and supper to commemorate Her Majesty’s birthday.

[Sidenote: May 24.]

Brooke, Read, Napier, and some others dined with old M‘Quhae, on board the _Dædelus_, before the ball. M‘Quhae got a little by the head, ships and forts having saluted at noon. Took possession of Navy House, a nice building, once poor Whitehead’s.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

_Dædelus_ sailed, and I assumed command of the Straits Station. Society much enlarged: impossible to get through the necessary calls in one day. Band on shore in the evenings for the amusement of our friends. Peyton and I dined with Tom Church, our Resident Councillor.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

In pulling about in my gig among the numerous prettily wooded islands on the westward entrance to the Singapore river, was astonished to find deep water close to the shore, with a safe passage through for ships larger than the _Mæander_.

Now that steam is likely to come into use, this ready-made harbour as a depot for coal would be invaluable.

I had the position surveyed, and sent it, with my report, to the Board of Admiralty; as it was, the forge was landed, boats repaired, and artificers employed under commodious sheds, all under the eyes of the officers on board.

[Illustration: _New Harbour, Singapore._]

New Harbour has another advantage over Singapore Roads. In the latter a ship’s bottom becomes more foul than in any known anchorage in these seas; perhaps from the near proximity to the bottom. This is not the case in New Harbour, through which there is always a tide running, while a current of air passing between the islands keeps it comparatively cool.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Despatched _Phlegethon_ with the pioneers of the new settlement at Labuan, also to relieve the _Auckland_.

[Sidenote: June 19.]

_Mariner_, 16, arrived from the Cape, having made a long voyage going the old track, Commander Mathieson taking up his quarters with me.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

Officers of 21st dined “Mæanders,” inviting the Napiers to meet them.

[Sidenote: Singapore, June 23.]

A tiger brought in by some Malays was given me by the Governor. Clarke kindly skinned the beast. The flesh is in great demand by natives, who fancy that eating it makes them strong and brave.

The Malays stated, when they found the monster in a hole which had been dug on purpose, they threw quicklime in his eyes, and the unfortunate beast, while suffering intense pain, drowned himself in some water at the bottom of the pit, though not more than a foot in depth.

The annual loss of human life from tigers, chiefly among the Chinese settlers, is fearful--averaging one per diem. Great exertions are still being made for the destruction of them, which is effected by pitfalls--cages baited with dog, goat, monkey, or other restless animal, also by sundry cunning contrivances, but the strait between Johore and Singapore is but a short swim.

One of the recent victims was the son of the head man at Passir Pâdi, who, having gone into the jungle behind his father’s house to cut wood, was attacked by a tiger. The father, hearing screams, rushed just in time to grasp his boy’s legs as the brute was dragging him.

The father pulled and the tiger growled: it was only on other people arriving that he quitted his prey; but the unfortunate lad was dead.

There is a procession and much parade in bringing these tigers to the Government offices for the reward. The tigers are made to look as fierce as possible--propped up in a standing position by pieces of bamboo, the mouth open, and tail on end.

So great is the virtue of tiger flesh as a pick-me-up from fever that a portion of my beast found its way to the sick-room of a friend in the 21st Madras Native Infantry.

He was recovering from fever, and expressed surprise at the tough meat in his curry, when his native servant explained his reason for supplying it.

Although out on various occasions, I was never fortunate enough to fall in with a live tiger. With wild hog we had excellent sport, and occasionally with deer.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Comber was made a Freemason of the lodge “Zetland in the East” (to which I subsequently belonged). The members gave a farewell dinner to Read, and invited me to meet him. Brooke was also a guest, and made an excellent speech.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

_Auckland_ steamer in from Labuan; Sekarran pirates requiring a visit. Captain Young of _Auckland_ took up his quarters with me.

Drove with the Governor. Assembly ball in evening.

[Sidenote: Singapore, June 28.]

_Mæander_ hoisted Royal Standard and saluted on anniversary of the Coronation.

Our worthy old Purser, Simmons, departed this life while staying at Whampoa’s country house.

Whampoa was a fine specimen of his country, and had for many years been contractor for fresh beef and naval stores. His generosity and honesty had long made him a favourite.

He had a country house, and of course a garden; also a circular pond in which was a magnificent lotus, the _Victoriæ regia_, a present from the Regent of Siam, who sent it to him by W. H. Read. The huge lily grew splendidly, and bore leaves over eleven feet in diameter.

When in blossom, Whampoa gave sumptuous entertainments to naval officers: although our host, he would not eat with us, but sat in a chair, slightly withdrawn from the table.

At midnight, by the light of a full moon, we would visit this beautiful flower, which faced the moon and moved with it until below the horizon.

Amongst other pets he had an orang-outang, who preferred a bottle of cognac to water. Dear old Whampoa’s eldest son was sent to England for education, and while there became a Presbyterian.

When I was at Singapore, years after, the young man returned, and had the assurance to reappear before his father, fresh and well, but minus a tail, and consequently was banished to Canton until it regrew and he consented to worship the gods of his fathers. I now hear from the then lad that he holds his father’s place.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

Attended the funeral of Simmons: no kinder or better man.

[Sidenote: July 1.]

Dined at a farewell dinner, given by the Frasers to the Reads. _Albatross_, 12, arrived from Rio. Commander Farquhar, a good fellow, took up his quarters with me.

[Sidenote: July 3.]

Mail steamer from China, bringing old friend Tottenham to take Lieutenant Read’s vacancy.

[Sidenote: July 4.]

Large dinner at Government House to meet His Excellency Sir James Brooke.

[Sidenote: July 6.]

Dined with Cooke and Hessey, 21st Regiment: a large party. Brooke came to stay with me.

[Sidenote: July 10.]

Took leave of the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth, who are leaving on the morrow to visit the various settlements.

[Sidenote: July 13.]

Low gave a dinner at the hotel to self and friends.

[Sidenote: July 17.]

On board _Mæander_; got under way to accompany Farquhar in _Albatross_, after dining we parted company, she proceeding to Bombay.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

Landed at 4 A.M. with the youngsters to draw the seine; great fun.

[Sidenote: July 19.]

Weighed at 10 A.M., and ran into New Harbour. Rajah Brooke far from well, our departure for Sarawak postponed.

[Sidenote: July 23.]

A snake five feet long found under one of the main-deck guns. How he got there, they wondered!

[Sidenote: July 24.]

Having a large party on board, got under way. Ran through the Eastern Passage, round St. John’s, and returned by Western Entrance. _Auckland_ steamer joined us in New Harbour.

[Sidenote: July 31.]

At 5 P.M., on the rising of the moon, fired a salute of eight guns to please the Tumongong of Singapore, in celebration of the close of a Mahommedan Fast.

Ever since meeting him in Singapore in this year, my friend, James Meldrum (Dato), has always kept me informed of all matters connected with the doings of the Tumongong and his family.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Arrived mail steamer, on board which was my old friend, Sir Francis Collier, as Commander-in-Chief. His birthday too!

Hoisted and saluted his flag on board _Mæander_. Put him up in Read’s house, now empty, Admiral’s flagship _Hastings_ to follow. The pleasure of meeting, I flatter myself, was mutual. Drove out with him after early dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

Attended the Admiral in returning many calls.

[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]

Assisted at Miss Napier’s cheery wedding with Hugh Low: _déjeûner_ given by Napier.

[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]

Occupied with Admiral, returning calls. He having ventured on the favourite native fruit, Durian, will not forget the taste!

[Sidenote: Egerton, Aug. 15.]

Youngsters Karslake and Granville on shore preparatory to riding at the races. I won the lottery.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

Last day of the races: better sport because fairer weights; good fun.

[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]

Great preparations for the instalment of James Brooke. Pity the Governor is not here to perform the ceremony.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

Installation of Brooke with the order of K.C.B.: great business; Napier, Her Majesty’s Representative, performing ceremony. Ball in evening at Assembly Rooms.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

Captain Young and officers of _Auckland_ gave a ball on board their steaming frigate to the “Mæanders.” Very well done.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Brooke returned from short visit to the country; sailed with him for Labuan. Left dingey in Read’s garden for Admiral’s flag. Taylor of Artillery with me.

[Sidenote: At Sea. Aug. 30.]

Again on the way to Sarawak. My friend Brooke under different circumstances than when he went in _Dido_, 1843.

[Sidenote: Aug. 31.]

Rounded Tanjong Datu: entered within the limits of Brooke’s territory.

[Illustration: _All Sail set._]

[Sidenote: Sarawak, Sept. 2.]

Being off the Santabong entrance sent second gig to Sarawak, with letters from Rajah Brooke. Sunset, anchored in the Marotobas entrance off Tanjong Po: some 12 miles from Kuching.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

The whole Sarawak population appeared to be afloat; all their largest and finest boats had been put in requisition, and came with tom-toms beating, streamers and colours flying to greet their Rajah.

The first boat alongside contained the Bornean Princes: survivors of the Brunei Massacre, relatives of poor Muda Hassim and the gallant Budrudeen.

Among them I recognised Pangeran Oman Alli, with a desperate wound in the face and a frightful gash across the breast.

While preparing for my guests in proper form, their Highnesses found their way into my cabin, thereby evading all ceremony--where I will leave them a few minutes while I insert here a short extract from Rajah Brooke’s letter, dated on board _Phlegethon_, August 27, 1846.

“Here I am with a few of the unhappy survivors of Muda Hassim’s family.

“I cannot pretend to detail all that has occurred, even in a long letter, for events now, as when you were with me, progress far faster than the decisions of ministers.

“You will have heard of the brutal massacre of Muda Hassim, the noble Budrudeen and the other brothers, except two.

“They were taken by surprise, their houses fired, and during the fire attacked by about fifty men.

“Budrudeen, with two men, fought until wounded in the wrist and cut over the head; he then blew himself and family up.

“Muda Hassim escaped with several of his brothers to the opposite side of the river, having lost his guns, powder, and property, and then shot himself.”

The pleasure on both sides at meeting was unfeigned, and indeed--setting aside those social ties which must bind us all, more or less, to the land of our birth--no one, witnessing the real pleasure which the return of Sir James Brooke afforded these simple people, could wonder at his preferring a country where such a reception awaited him to colder if more civilised England.

With the first of the flood, our Rajah embarked in the _Mæander’s_ barge, and, quitting the ship under a salute and manned yards, attended by his picturesque fleet he proceeded up the river, the war prahus keeping up a firing of guns.

After Brooke’s departure we stood out to sea, in search of the _Jolly Bachelor_. When off Tanjong Datu we hoisted out our boom-boats, sending them in all directions, standing ourselves towards St. Pierre.

We afterwards met the tender off the entrance of the Sarawak River. Marryat having mistaken his orders, went in by the Santobong entrance.

[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]

Ran into the river. The largest ship that has ever been or likely to come up as far as the Quop. Took up my quarters in Brooke’s house; found him surrounded by a happy and contented people.

[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]

Preparing boats to accompany a small force to be sent by Rajah to the Sadong: twenty-five boats in all.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

This afternoon tide brought the _Auckland_ steamer, with the July mail.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

Went up during a stormy night with young Brooke to join his uncle; returned with the ebb. _Auckland_ having brought up our new steam tender, built at Singapore and christened _Ranee_, took a small trip in her. The engines, however, not of sufficient power. The steam launch was the astonishment of the natives.

[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]

Boats returned from their expedition to Sadong, which was most successful, but a sad accident had occurred.

Two seamen and a marine were going on shore in a sampan, when the seamen began rocking the canoe by way of lark, and upset the small vessel, drowning the marine and one sailor.

While the First Lieutenant was reporting to me the sad accident, a lad fell overboard from the _Ranee_, and sank at once, probably seized by an alligator not visible in muddy water. Very sad the number of deaths in this ship: manned by as fine a crew as ever left England.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

Attended a grand feast given by the Datu Patinggi to the Rajah. Great preparations had been made; flags and streamers flying, gongs sounding, and salutes fired _ad libitum_ from the Datos Lelahs.

We were received by the still pretty and graceful Inda, mother of Fatima, the youthful heiress to Datu Gapoor’s property. Her beauty has attained a celebrity throughout the Malayan Archipelago.

The fair Fatima sprinkled us with coloured rice and gold dust, to which was added a gentle shower of rose water.

Verses from the Koran were chanted, the book being handed from one to another, without regard to precedence or sanctity, the man with the strongest lungs taking the longest pull at it. Then came feasting, with undeniably good curries.

[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]

Brooke held a Bichara. All the leading Chiefs, Datus, and Pangerans attended. Every part of the audience-chamber was crowded: light and air being almost excluded by the multitude of eager faces that filled the openings which served for windows. We were in uniform and found it oppressively hot.

A new flag, which Brooke had brought from England, was unfurled--a black and red cross on yellow ground--henceforth the national flag of Sarawak.

It was hoisted and saluted in due form; the _Mæander’s_ band, playing lively airs, contributed to effect.

The function over, pipes and cigars were introduced. We then threw off our jackets, appearing in full Sarawak uniform, viz. shirts and trousers only, and discussed with less ceremony and more comfort the past, the present, and the future, finishing by dining with the generous Hunting, who has become a landed proprietor.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Up early and down to the ship at the Quop and on to Tanjong Po.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

The Rajah having embarked with friends Treacher and Macdougal we sailed for Labuan, and in four days landed him, although far from well.

[Sidenote: Labuan.]

But where was the Governor’s house? Where the Lieutenant-Governor? Where was any one in authority to answer for the miserable huts we found raised on the most unhealthy-looking spots on the island?

The flat selected for the settlement is below the level and out of sight of the sea, from which it is protected by a silted-up bank. It cost the lives of many marines, and, later, some of my best able seamen.

Landed Brooke under a salute. He and Napier were sworn in, and so commenced the Government of Labuan.

[Sidenote: Oct. 6.]

We again received on board the Governor and his staff, His Excellency purposing to pay a visit of ceremony to the Sultan of Brunei.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

Hoisted out the launch. Got caught in a squall, with her and steam tender in tow. Before the sail could be got off the launch capsized, with a brass gun for ballast; the steam tender did not take in so much as a spoonful of water.

However, we picked up the two boat-keepers, and the greater part of the gear; came to and hoisted in the launch. While thus employed the _Royalist_ hove in sight, having been dismantled in same squall.

The bob-stays had given way, the bowsprit came in-board, and the three masts, with royal yards across, lay amidships.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

Leaving her at Labuan to refit, and a volunteer party of marines for duty on shore, we re-landed His Excellency and sailed for Singapore.

[Sidenote: Oct. 17.]

A marine, William Southcote, another victim, departed this life.

[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]

Another this evening in Corporal Chalmers, also a steady, good man. Have my fears for those poor fellows left at Labuan.

[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]

At daylight arrived at Singapore. My wife had previously arrived from England, and was kindly received by the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth.

[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]

Admiral hoisted flag on board. I took Whampoa’s house in the country.

[Sidenote: Nov. 11.]

_Hastings_, 72--Captain, Francis Austen; Commander, Edward Rice--arrived in the night. Shifted flag to her and saluted. Glad she has arrived. She had been towed up by _Fury_, 6, from Java Head.

[Sidenote: Nov. 16.]

_Auckland_, arriving from Labuan with _Royalist_ in tow: decided that _Mæander_ takes part of 21st Regiment on board for Labuan station.

[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]

Inquiry, with Captain Morgan, on board _Royalist_, as to steps taken by Gordon when she was dismasted. Approval of steps taken.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Company of Sepoy troops embarked on board _Mæander_. Weighed immediately.

[Illustration: Mæander _passing astern of_ Hastings.]

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Lucky in our breeze. Fell in with and passed close under the stern of the _Hastings_ in tow of _Fury_, she having left thirty hours before us. She would have done better under canvas.

[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]

Arrived at Labuan.

We found nearly the whole colony down with fever. More marines had died; many seriously ill, and of the survivors the poor Governor in the worst condition. He had been delirious, and lay apparently with but little hope of recovery. Doctor Treacher, his medical attendant, was nearly as bad.

I saw that some steps should be immediately taken, and, making my way to the sick bedside, I begged Sir James to prepare for removal, giving him choice of _Auckland_ or _Mæander_. Brooke selected the latter.

[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]

Feeling better in the morning, he undertook to sign a few papers, but fainted twice during the day.

When I called just before sunset with the barge’s crew to convey him on board, he was so exhausted that our surgeon declared it would be dangerous to move him.

With great reluctance on my part, he was left to imbibe for another night the fœtid air of Labuan.

[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]

Poor Hannan, our Chaplain, showing strong symptoms of delirium; imagines the Queen to be coming to Labuan to put things to rights.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

Found Brooke not improving. I decided on saving his life if possible.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

In spite of remonstrances of the faculty, as well as those of some of his staff, my gig’s crew gently shouldered the cot on which he lay, and so conveyed His Excellency to the barge. The sea was smooth; those on board were prepared: he was hoisted up; once in my cabin no one could approach him except through me, and I was proud and hopeful of my charge.