CHAPTER LV
THE CRIMEA
PLYMOUTH SOUND.
[Sidenote: 1855. Jan. 1.]
2 P.M.--Slipped moorings. Came to in the Sound. Obliged to close lower deck ports to prevent watermen pitching parcels on board for the Crimea. New Year’s dinner with Admiral Sir William Parker, my old Chief in China.
[Sidenote: Plymouth, Jan. 2.]
Glad to meet again, residing here, Mrs. Keith Stewart; accompanied her to lunch with Lord Mount Edgcumbe. Dinner with the Charles Edens to meet my passengers, Generals Barnard and Lord Rokeby.
[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
Lord George Lennox down to sail to Cork with us. 3 P.M.--Crimean Generals came alongside in a steamer. Was obliged to leave young Graham, Birch, and George Wodehouse to follow.
[Sidenote: Cork, Jan. 4.]
Arrived in afternoon at Cove of Cork, saluting flag of Admiral Carrol. Generals and I dined with him; Miss Carrol managing her father’s house.
Received 645 troops, drafts for different regiments in the Crimea, consisting of the following:--
63rd Regt., 51 men, Lieuts. Hunt and Hand. 30th Regt., 51 men, Capt. Robertson, Lieut. Hill. 33rd Regt., 97 men, Capt. Ellis, Lieut. Wallis, Ensign Ellis. 47th Regt., 67 men, Capt. Elgee. 41st Regt., 109 men, Capt. Bertram, Lieuts. Lambert and Nowlan. 17th Regt., 122 men, Capt. Colthurst, Lieut. Thompson, Ensigns Travis and Disbourne. 50th Regt., 17 men. 68th Regt., 17 men. 55th Regt., 39 men, Lieut. Hannay. 49th Regt., 67 men, Lieut. Eustace. 57th Regt., 9 men, Capt. Brown, Lieut. Ashwin.
Not sorry to receive telegram to wait for Graham. So need not sail on Friday.
[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
Shifted berth into Fairway. Schetky, late drawing master of Royal Naval College, breakfasted with me.
[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]
Got fairly away by 8 A.M., George Lennox leaving with the pilot. We exchanged binoculars by mistake. My guests, Generals Barnard and Lord Rokeby, Colonels Warde and Arthur Lowry Cole, A.D.C’s. Wellesley and Barnard, all good fellows. Lord Rokeby, a soldier of Waterloo, the cheeriest of all; but he, poor fellow, had lately lost a promising young and only son. I was admitted to his confidence. Bright and cheery as he was in company, it was a sad consolation for him to describe in private the loss he had sustained; outside, no one could have detected that he had a trouble in the world.
* * * * *
It was the depth of winter. On the way out I had made for my Generals and Colonels canvas bags, impervious to wet or cold, in which they could lie down with uniforms on....
[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]
People and luggage beginning to shake down into their places. Officers, determined to be pleased, made no complaints. Among the passengers were some for whom it was difficult to find a berth. The good Chaplain “Thomas” spotted one[2] so situated, and ascertaining that he knew not where to sleep, put him into his, the Chaplain’s cabin, making for himself a bed under the wardroom mess-table.
[2] Lord Dangan, Coldstream Guards.
[Illustration: _Map--Strait of Gibraltar_]
[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]
Soldiers are naturally fond of lounging about the boom-boats. Discovered afterwards our cheery Irish recruits had devoured half a ton of raw turnips that had been sent on board for the sheep.
[Sidenote: Gibraltar, Jan. 12.]
At sunset we were off the entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar. Strong easterly wind, and the usual inrush of sea; but as it was about our dinner time, I had sails furled, and left the Master to steer by the well-lighted Spanish coast. When I came on the poop-deck, shortly followed by my guests, a bright light, broad on the port bow, made me inquire of the Master what it was. He informed me it was Tarifa Point. Having ascertained the bearings, I saw at once that it must be Europa Point, some twenty miles in advance, and ordered “Starboard the helm.”
Twenty years had elapsed since, when in command of _Childers_ brig, I had made almost monthly visits to meet the English mail at Gibraltar. My poor nervous Master, who could not have reckoned on the rush of sea into the Mediterranean, exclaimed, before my Generals and other guests: “You forget, sir, that you have on board 1200 men in addition to the ship’s company.” Ordered him to his cabin under arrest!
What my guests in charge of the 1200 troops must have thought I know not, but they behaved like the noble fellows they were. I was younger than most of them, and there must have been many persons on that deck who can still corroborate what I write. The angle formed in our wake caused the propelling screw to cut the lead lines, which were also cut as soon as replaced. However, in a few minutes we had the full blaze of lights on the Rock itself; the harbour was a mass of shipping. We could only obtain proper anchorage by passing under the stern of the largest transport I could find. We had fortunately here about the most promising of our young Captains, George Grey, in charge of the dockyard. His perfect arrangements for coaling made the work easy.
[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]
Self and party dined with the Governor, Sir Robert Gardiner.
[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]
After church visited Pagets; Mrs. Paget, of the charming Williams family, having just returned. Early dinner with George Grey. 320 tons of coal on board. Made another start at 11 P.M.
[Sidenote: Jan. 15.]
The General harangued the troops, while I pitched into sundry delinquents: effects of coaling!
[Sidenote: Malta, Jan. 19.]
At 4 A.M. lights were reported. We entered Malta Harbour at 12.30. Steamed in and secured to a buoy.
Commenced coaling, watering, etc. Met H.R.H. The Duke of Cambridge. The same kind manner, but looking reduced and low in spirits. He seemed unprepared for the kind and hearty reception that awaited him on his return home. Put up at Durnford’s Hotel. Saw many old friends: Pocklington, Fred Arkwright, and others. Stores, horses, cases, etc., sent on board without mercy. Dined with Admiral Houston Stewart.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
5 P.M.--Slipped from buoy--steamed and made sail.
[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
Entered the Dardanelles.
[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
At daylight found ourselves in the Sea of Marmora. Kept the northern coast to avoid current. 10 A.M.--Came to in the entrance to the Golden Horn, off that wonderful city, Constantinople.
[Illustration: _Map--The Bosporus_]
[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]
Found Rear-Admiral Boxer the senior officer. Frederick Grey, as Commodore, ready to relieve him. Visited the hospital at Scutari, and had an interview with Miss Nightingale. Put up at Misseri’s Hotel. Dined at the Embassy, meeting there Mrs. Ives and Miss Stanley.
[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
After breakfast joined Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s party, and visited bazaars, etc., on Constantinople side. Interview and long chat with Mrs. Ives, Emma Maynard that was. Dined at Embassy in thin boots; a filthy walk back to hotel.
[Illustration: St. Jean d’ Acre _off Balaclava_.]
[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
Weighed at 8 A.M., having slept on shore.
Cheered _Queen_ and _Vengeance_ on passing them in Beicos Bay. 10.--Entered the Black Sea. Two more friends added to my mess in Hugh Drummond of Fusilier Guards, and Colonel Norcott of Rifles.
[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]
Wardroom officers gave a dinner to our Generals and staff. Sat down sixty-three: some speeches made and much harmony.
[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]
1 A.M.--Made the Khersonesia Light. 2.--Came to between the _Algiers_ and _Agamemnon_, the latter flying the flag of Sir Edmund Lyons, off Sevastopol Harbour. Went on board; found Admiral in bed. At 8, Generals and self breakfasted with him, and then shifted round to Balaclava.
[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]
[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]
Generals disembarked this morning. I also landed, and picked up Wenny Coke, who had a bad cold. Put him on our sick list. The Generals returned on board to dinner. I had brought some Southdown sheep, knowing how welcome they would be. After breakfast guests off to their respective posts. On landing near the head of the harbour, found the snow a foot deep, with the exception of the foot-trodden paths.
The Royal Marines occupied the lower ground. To the north, above them, were the Guards, and on higher land were the 93rd Highlanders. I was looking for Sir Colin Campbell.
The first person I came up with was a long soldier, without coat or jacket, braces hanging down his back, carrying a bucket of water in one hand, and lugging a goat up with the other. He accosted me with, “How are you, Keppel?” I replied, “All right, thanks,” and passed on. On arriving at the Guards’ ground, the first person I saw standing at his tent door was friend Mark Wood. While chatting, the soldier with braces down passed. I asked, “Who is that soldier? he seems to know me.” Wood said, “Of course he does; that is Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar.”
I found Sir Colin Campbell on the high ground, his jacket flying open as if it were summer. Our meeting was cordial. I asked him whether he would have his Southdown cut up, or whole. He preferred it home fashion, with the saddle.
I got him to tell me whether it was true he had refused to form square to resist the Russian Cavalry at Balaclava. He said a double line of Highlanders was enough, and if I did not mind the snow he would show me the Russian horses. Seeing the carcases lying in the snow, I remarked I was not aware that the Russians docked their horses so close; he said it was done by the French, who took them to make bouillon soup.
When I got down I was anxious to write my name in Lord Raglan’s book, and inquired my way to headquarters. A soldier informed me that at the next bend on the right I should find “a dead horse and a nasty stink on the left. The same all the way up.” As “all the way up” was four miles, I preferred returning to the ship.
[Illustration: “_All the way up._”]
[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
I was flattered to find my Generals preferred sleeping on board; however, hearing heavy firing in the night, they landed prepared to fight. Wenny Coke was much amused when he found the Generals went off so suddenly; he said, if they had only awoke him he could have informed them the same thing happened every night. Was struck yesterday with the cheeriness of officers and men. Visited the post-office; observed in one corner an ominous-looking bag, which appeared full, marked “Dead.”
The troops, both officers and men, form a motley mixture. It is difficult to recognise any one by his dress. They have now, when too late, warm clothing: fur caps, sheep-skin coats, and brown boots.
[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]
Sharp frost, with cold cutting wind, it having snowed hard during the night. Rokeby in his canvas bag, his moustache frozen white. Bromley, Colonel Carlton, Sir James Dunlop and nephew, Henry Hill, on board to dine and sleep. Landed Henry with stock of brandy, poultry, and tongue. Thermometer below 19°.
[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
Carlton and Bromley landed after breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny remaining. Weighed in afternoon. Anchored off Sevastopol.
[Sidenote: The Guards’ Camp.]
While the ship was at Balaclava I met on shore no end of old friends. In the Guards’ camp, although they, what was left of them, were bright and cheery, I avoided inquiring about the many I missed.
I dined quietly one afternoon with my kinsman, Bob Lindsay, but it was difficult to draw from him what his thoughts and feelings were on the occasion when he so gallantly carried the Guards’ colours at the Alma.
There was Billy Russell, ever bright and cheery, but never seemed inclined to be pumped as to what he had seen and knew.
I had repeated gallops with one or other of the Inkerman heroes. When that ride was proposed I never admitted I had been over the field before, and delighted to hear over and over again answers to my questions. The most melancholy spectacle was the wretched condition of the horses, ten and twelve being harnessed to an ammunition waggon that on other occasions would be drawn by four.
The painful subject everywhere was the thinned ranks of infantry regiments. The Guards were reduced from 4100 to 500. Poor Lord Rokeby tried to hide his tears when he saw the remnant of the Brigade. It will take from fifteen to twenty years to make them what they were a year ago.
After a while no one knew the whole country better than Lord Rokeby. I enjoyed my rides with him; always as fast as his good mounts could carry us.
The barrier of sunken ships across the harbour of Sevastopol I do not think much of, but there is a mysterious-looking line about two cables’ length inside the sunken ships that I cannot make out, leading about two-thirds of the way across. Carlton and Bromley landed after breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny Coke remaining. Up screw, weighed in afternoon, and worked round to anchorage off Kamiesch Bay.
[Sidenote: Kamiesch, Feb. 5.]
Accompanied Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons on horseback to Lord Raglan’s headquarters. Very interesting conversation by the way, giving me a clear insight into state of things.
[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
_Princess Royal_, Captain Lord Clarence Paget, arrived, bringing General Sir Harry Jones. Received a letter from Lady Wilmot announcing sad death of my poor Fred Wilmot Horton. Too down to dine with Admiral.
[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]
Accompanied Admiral in _Terrible_ to see entrance to the harbour. Ugly and formidable-looking batteries. Barriers of sunken ships’ bars, spars, and cables across; some tempting-looking liners inside. Dined with Sir Edmund. Right man in right place.
[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
George Goldsmith of _Sidon_, 22, paddle wheel, came to a quiet dinner.
[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]
Thompson to dinner; he had visited the muddy camp. More snow falling.
[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]
Admiral Houston Stewart arrived from Malta in _Spiteful_. Captain Ryder and young Yorke to dinner.
[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
The enemy keeping pace with us in forming defences against our increase of batteries, likewise in their reinforcements of supplies and troops. Sevastopol likely to hold out until completely invested. Dined with Commander-in-Chief. Breeze blowing up, stopped the night.
[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]
Telegraph by Admiral; change of Ministry.
Lord Palmerston, Premier, and Sir James Graham still at Admiralty, which I like.
[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]
Visited our worthy Chief. Flag shifted to the _Royal Albert_.
[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
Charlie Talbot to dine, also Oldfield from the trenches, and Commander Willie Partridge.
[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]
Ship looking clear and clean; herself again. Being near, commenced building a stable: a weakness I have long had.
[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]
Thermometer 7 degrees below freezing. French ship on shore, must go to pieces. (Which she did with a cargo of horses and bullocks. Seven horses saved out of forty. No human lives lost.)
[Illustration: _How the Guards looked._]
[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]
Mail in. F. Johnson promoted. Good fellow--a loss to us.
[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
Carpenters while on shore erecting stables, discovered a small French town, which smelt so strongly of brandy that my building was delayed.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Dined with the Admiral. _Rodney_ laid up near, crew had landed with Naval Brigade, she having no steam power.
[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]
Walk on shore with Talbot. Stable progressing.
Sad quantity of dead horses about. Of a fresh heap of eighteen, several appeared in good condition. Dined with Talbot. The horses were French.
[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
Mail in during the night. Harry Stephenson has entered the navy, his brother Sussex in the Fusilier Guards.
[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]
Another “no communication” day. My company, young Stanley Graham, recovering from chickenpox.
[Sidenote: Mar. 2.]
Went in with portmanteau to dine with Admiral. Put up by Mends.
[Sidenote: Mar. 3.]
After breakfast went to see Jack Lyons in _Miranda_, and then outside to George Goldsmith, _Sidon_; with him paid an interesting visit to the extreme left of the French lines and into the ruins of Khersonese. Dined with Admiral and slept on board.
[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
Visit from George Broke of _Gladiator_, also George Goldsmith. Webb from _Australia_ and Dalyell.
[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
Curious to see the temporary towns and shops established by the French.
[Sidenote: Mar. 6.]
On going on board to dine with Admiral, heard of the Emperor of Russia’s death. On returning communicated same to Charlie Talbot and Clarence Paget. Curious the unsettled state of mind people are in, through the Czar’s death. What strange surmises as to the future.
[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
Early arrival of mail. News anything but cheery. Sir James Graham no longer First Lord. Kind letter from him. Bread riots. No Government. Well-earned good service pension to Milne.
[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]
Accompanied Admiral Houston Stewart in _Beagle_ steamer to Balaklava. Found guards quartered close. Wenny Coke, Robert Lindsay, and other friends dined with Lord Rokeby. Put up on board _Diamond_ with Peel. Great improvements in Balaklava. Harbour crowded. Dangerous quantity of powder afloat.
[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
Peel and I, mounted by Sir Colin Campbell, rode to St. George’s Monastery. Beautiful scenery, ditto weather. Peace and quiet. Strange contrast with encampments close by.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
Omar Pasha arrived in _Valourous_. Cheered him in passing.
[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
Maitland Lennox and his artillery brother to dine and stay the day on board.
[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
Outside squadron dining with Houston-Stewart. Jolly!
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
Brisk exchange of shots between the front and Russians. No results. Dined with Clarence Paget.
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
Dined with Commander-in-Chief. Death of the Russian Admiral Istoma, one of the perpetrators of the Sinope tragedy.
[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]
A man died this morning from a virulent attack of smallpox. Dined with Commander-in-Chief, having previously taken Dalrymple Hay a walk.
[Sidenote: Off Sevastopol, Mar. 22.]
Dined with Pasley on board _Agamemnon_: we had been messmates when I was a mid in _Tweed_. Play on board _Algiers_, C. Talbot. Acting good. Heavy firing. Town apparently on fire.
[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
General Barnard having sent a horse, rode to the front. After luncheon walked into the trenches to see the effect of last night’s attack on our lines.
[Sidenote: Camp, Mar. 24.]
Flag of truce hoisted at noon for two hours to enable both sides to bury their dead. Extraordinary sight. Russians, French, and English mixed, looking for their respective dead. 500 corpses lying about. Walked at night with friend General Charles Windham.
[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
Attended divine service in the open air. 4th Division of the army square formed. Parson with moustache! Ride with General Barnard to the site of the charge at Inkerman. Dined with the general, meeting Charles Windham, who agrees with me about employing the ships to draw fire off the trenches. Interesting view of the town, also the fortifications recently made by the Russians.
[Sidenote: Mar. 26.]
Attended races of 3rd Division. Curious and novel sight: soldiers and sailors only. Put up on board _Gladiator_, Captain Broke, now Sir George, and son of the famous _Shannon_ and _Chesapeke_ hero.
[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
Returned on board after inspecting stables and my new old pony. Walk with Thompson: had to bob to a Russian shell, my gold lace cap having, they said, attracted attention. Two 10½-inch Russian shells not exploded, had them conveyed on board.
Pasley, M‘Cleverty, and Elphinstone to dine.
[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]
[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
Another case of smallpox. Admiral suggested our getting under weigh, by way of cutting off communication. Thought it advisable to have mids and youngsters vaccinated; having the necessary lymph on board, they were ordered to my cabin. Some, seeing the doctor’s preparations, rather hesitated, on which I requested the surgeon to perform on me first, when all went on smoothly.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
Weighed at daylight, running past the entrance of the harbour, and came to off Eupatoria. Hoisted quarantine flag. George Hastings came alongside. Omar Pasha’s army is encamped in the town.
[Illustration: _Omar Pasha’s Arab._]