Part 1

MATERIALS FOR SUPERIOR CROCHET AND MACRAMÉ WORK

The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it the clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, being made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We recommend especially, for cotton crochet work:—

Bucilla Crochet Bear Macramé

Bucilla Crochet

A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces, center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made in fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or more sizes. This is an American product and superior to all the imported articles that have been offered heretofore.

Bear Macramé

Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of Macramé work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, portieres, table covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the exclusive trade.

Glossilla Crochet

Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains its luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, bags, etc.; is put up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be drawn while working, the remainder being entirely protected by the transparent shell. Each carton contains enough material for one necktie or belt.

This carton has been patented.

Klondyke Thread

Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold color, also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior to all metal threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most satisfactory for working purposes.

=Cro-Knitting= _The New Art of Worsted Work_ ALSO =Crocheted Lattice Work= PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL WORKING DIRECTIONS

PRICE, 25 CENTS

PUBLISHED BY BERNHARD ULMANN & CO. 107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY

COPYRIGHT 1914, BY BERNHARD ULMANN & CO.

FOREWORD

The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name implies, a combination of crocheting and knitting, the effects produced being as beautiful as they are novel. The variety of unusual stitches is almost without limit and leads the worker, who desires something out of the beaten path, into new fields that tempt her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting may be used for numerous purposes.

In presenting this new art to the public, we feel that it will be welcomed by the many friends of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK.

We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting, a number of designs for the new Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen to be appreciated.

We wish, however, to advise the worker that in carrying out the various directions given, she uses exactly the materials designated. The directions were tested with the yarns and needles named and only by their use can the proper results be obtained. Do not substitute another yarn and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. Use the yarn specified—

BEAR BRAND

[Illustration:

Young Girl’s Norfolk

(_For description see page 7_) ]

CRO-KNITTING

“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from a knitting pin” is the best description of Cro-Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting are worked alternately or as the various patterns demand. The work requires a pair of knitting pins (or needles, as they are sometimes called) and a crochet hook of the same length and size as the pins. The hook should be of an even thickness down its entire length, with a knob at the end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on it as in afghan stitch.

The work is always commenced on a knitting pin, the stitches being cast on in the usual manner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), followed by one or more rows of plain knitting.

KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in the usual manner. The first stitch is to be slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of knitting commences with a different wool, the first stitch is always knitted, to keep the stripe distinct.

CROCHETED ROWS: when working these from the knitting pin, the hook is inserted through the stitch on the pin, as though it were a second knitting pin (from left to right). When working into the back of a stitch, the hook is inserted in reverse manner (from right to left). When working the crocheted rows the wool is passed over the fingers of the left hand. When two knitting stitches are taken together the hook is passed through the stitch nearer the left hand (as in knitting) before entering the stitch next to the point of the pin. When the back threads of two stitches are taken together, this is reversed and the crochet hook enters first the stitch at the point of the pin. As the crocheted rows are worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it is not possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting, as the stitch would drop, but it is an easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely pretty effect.

In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1 double through two stitches, 1 double through the back of the same two stitches,” the repetition means that the stitches are to be held on the knitting pin until the second double has been made; then slip stitches from pin.

When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely the usual plain and purl. The basic crochet stitches are single, double and treble crochet and the various cluster stitches, some of which are illustrated.

[Illustration]

SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row. * With the crochet hook draw the wool through the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook and through the loop just drawn through, slip stitch from the pin and repeat from * all across. After row has been finished, there should be as many stitches on hook as there were on pin.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Wool over hook, draw the wool through first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

[Illustration]

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Insert hook in first stitch and draw wool through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, wool over and through one loop, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

[Illustration]

AUTOMOBILE STITCH.

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4 rows.

First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back thread of second and all remaining stitches, retaining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The loop on hook will count as first stitch.

Knit 2 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern.

CLUSTER STITCH.

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit one row.

[Illustration]

Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, draw wool through, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin. * Make 1 treble crochet through the next two stitches together, 1 double crochet through the back of the same two stitches, slip stitches from pin and repeat from * all across, ending by working final stitch as first was made.

Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for the length desired.

LATTICE WORK.

This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the stitches being those employed in that art.

The work is done with regular crochet hooks of various sizes, as designated in the instructions.

The novel feature is the fact, that _in addition_ to the hook, one large wooden pin, made like an ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin the stitches are placed so that regularity in the height of the lattice work rows is attained.

These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes, the largest. No. 1, being almost four inches in circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting pin of the desired size can be substituted.

The work is very simple and effective.

YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK.

(_See illustration page 4_) .ce 1 Materials Required:

5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn. 1 skein contrasting color, knitting yarn. 1 pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). Knit the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, change to a single thread of contrasting color and knit back casting on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of contrasting color. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the knitting pin, slip loop from pin, * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows, for the last fancy row changing to 2 threads of principal color. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows making openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows, on the last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there, work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 11 plain rows, not forgetting the belt openings, then 1 row of contrasting color and repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.

[Illustration]

CUTAWAY JACKET.

Materials Required:

½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold. 1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length.

Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry stitch, as follows:

First row: knit plain.

Second row: purl.

Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Fourth row: purl.

Fifth row: knit.

Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and last stitches.

Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after _each_ cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74 stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long enough to reach to the neck.

Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off.

Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes.

BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain crocheting, as follows:

First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch.

Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping.

Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it back all around garment.

Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1 s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or enough to make the border perfectly flat.

Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place.

Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm seam.

[Illustration:

Lattice Work Scarf ]

LATTICE WORK SCARF.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool. 1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5. 1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long).

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 62 and turn. Make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. c. in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, counting the three chains skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. The work should measure 14 inches in length and be ¾ of an inch high.

Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a loop through the front thread of the second stitch of previous row, wool over and through all three loops on needle, thus forming one short, double crochet stitch. Continue making 1 s. d. c. in each stitch to the end, always counting the chain made when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 stitches.

Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each succeeding stitch of previous row, taken through the double thread. 60 stitches.

Repeat second and third rows until there are five rows, in all, or the work measures 3 inches in depth; ending with a double crochet row.

The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw a loop through the back thread of first stitch and through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 slip stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of row. Turn. Make 1 single crochet stitch in each stitch of double crochet row taking up the back thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo wool and fasten off Germantown.

Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and slip it on the Lattice pin. This pin is held under the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook pull a loop of wool through the double threads of second stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing one loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops on pin. Join on the Germantown and fasten off Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn.

Repeat the four border rows over and over until there are five rows of lattice work. Then repeat the first, second and again the first row. When making the second rows the stitches are to be taken up on the back threads of the fourth rows.

The center is made as the second and third rows of scarf were made: the first row of d. c. being taken on back thread of border and all subsequent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. Make center 50 inches long, then repeat border. Make 5 rows to match beginning and then begin border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. putting 3 s. c. in the end of each d. c. row and 2 s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough to make work flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. Be sure this row contains a multiple of six stitches. Turn and slip stitch on the back thread of s. c. stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. Continue as border was made on ends until two rows of lattice work have been made, then repeat first, second and again the first border rows and fasten off. Finish second side in same manner. Across the ends put a knotted-in fringe in every fourth stitch. Put six strands of Germantown in each tassel and cut strands 12 inches long.

PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trimming. 1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long. 1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

[Illustration]