Part 4

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3.

Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.

[Illustration:

Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting ]

STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box). 2 skeins of darkest contrasting color. 1 skein each, of two next lighter shades. 1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length.

The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the balls separately.

Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is next to be made.

First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet hook.

For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.

Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many stitches on needle as for the first row.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe.

Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely.

Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before knotting on the fringe.

Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors to correspond to the shaded stripes.

LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.

Materials Required:

7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100. 1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3. 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. 1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles.

Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.

Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.

Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which are inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second and third loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through the second hoop.

Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread at the back of each of the next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through hoop found there and turn. Be careful not to twist chains.

[Illustration]

Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in horizontal thread of each of the other chains; then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch of _fifth_ row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches to keep work even.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows eleven times. Place the two edges of bag part together and join them together taking up the back thread of each of the two first stitches and into them working 1 s. c. Continue in this way all across and fasten off.

Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked, draw the end through the hoop, join on a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c., as before, on ch. and join second side of bag as first side was joined. Cover each hoop with slip stitches.

CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK.

Materials Required:

2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour wool. 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.

Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, chain 69 for the neck of jacket. Work 2 rows in crazy stitch, as follows:

First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row.

Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, * 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each loop across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. Fasten off wool.

Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. 3 (to count as 1 d. c.), 4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of next shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * across the row, ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. loop. Fasten off Pompadour.

Throughout entire jacket the work is turned in commencing each row.

Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads of Zephyr Shetland and tie them to the Pompadour wool. * Draw a loop through the back thread of first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the knitting pin. Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each d. c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. stitches, 110 loops on pin for this row. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: * pull second loop through first loop, pull working threads through it, ch. 1, slip loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working threads through first loop (thus crossing the two loops), ch. 1, slip loop on pin and repeat from * all across row. Slip loops from pin.

Sixth row: working with a single thread of Zephyr Shetland cross loops, as before and in each loop make 1 s. c.

[Illustration]

Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all across. 36 shells in row.

Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shetland and work like second row.

Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in each shell instead of 5 d. c.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rows. There will be 48 shells on the final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong side of shells worked with Pompadour is the right side of yoke.

The body of jacket is made of a single thread of Zephyr Shetland and is worked in crazy stitch.

First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same place. 1 s. c. in s. c. after shell and repeat from * eight times; chain 12 for under arm, skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 crazy shells across back, ch. 12 for second under arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy shells to end of row.

Second row: work as for second row of yoke putting 4 extra shells on each under arm chain. Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row of Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. Follow with the three lattice work rows. Fasten off.

Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy shells all around jacket and neck, working from wrong side.

Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 crazy shells there, 9 shells across the shoulder and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more rows.

Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then a shell catching the s. c. through the ch. loops of the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to match the border on lower part of jacket. Sew up and then put on the crazy shell scallop.

AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.

Materials Required:

13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold. 1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool. 9 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 264, green. 2 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 200, pink. 1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 inches long). 1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

[Illustration]

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the knitting pins and white wool, cast on 131 stitches for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain rows.

Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in each stitch and work back as in plain afghan stitch (see directions for afghan stripe below).

Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking them on the back perpendicular bar of the row below, instead of the front perpendicular bar. Knit back with knitting pin. Knit 2 _more_ plain rows.

Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in first stitch and slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch off pin, wool over, skip the first loop above afghan stitch row (it will be seen that this row formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop through the next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw up another long loop through same space, wool over, through 8 loops on hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last space where long loops were worked into, pick up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a loop in last stitch.

Knit 3 plain rows.

Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long loop just above the clusters made before.

[Illustration:

DETAIL OF CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY

× _Green Glossilla_ _Green Germantown_ _Pink Rococo_ ◈ _Pink Glossilla_ ]

K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side.

Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way.

Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop through the horizontal bar in the back of second and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is half of the afghan row. Work back, as follows: wool over and through end loop * wool over and through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end.

Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is the first stitch of this row. Pick up a loop through the second and succeeding perpendicular bars retaining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked up through the last bar and the thread back of it. This forms a chain edge which corresponds to the first edge. Work back as directed for first row.

Repeat the second row until the stripe is the same length as the Cro-Knitting stripe. It should be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six rows, narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, then draw it through the loop on hook, pick up succeeding loops and keep them on hook, pick up a loop through the last two bars together. Final row: pick up loop as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

Make two more stripes in same manner and embroider stripes, as illustrated.

Sew stripes together.

Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: fasten two threads of white wool at corner, fasten two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 with first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. Withdraw hook, holding second working thread over chain just made, chain 5, catch into seventh stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary to twist the working thread as each loop is being made.

Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated. These are made while working edge, by an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective places. Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull through loops and tie double. Put network of buttonhole stitch over head of each tassel with green Glossilla.

ROSE CAP.

Materials Required:

1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool. 1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.

[Illustration]

Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, * wool over and pick up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 3 loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.), ch. 1 and repeat from * 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at beginning of round, with a slip stitch thus forming six spaces.

Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, ch. 2, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.

Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke and repeat all around; join and turn.

Fifth round: 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around.

Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not fasten off Pompadour wool. * 1 d. c. on the left side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in each of the next six stitches drawing them up so that the top of the work is evenly high, 1 d. c. on the right side of next s. c. and repeat from * all around. 48 stitches in round. Join.

Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through from the back and pick up a loop in the front thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip stitch. Make 1 slip stitch in front thread of each stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour.

Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1 s. d. c. in the back thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting that in the center stitch of each shell there are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. d. c. in round. Join. Repeat the seventh round.

Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of each of the first three stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next and repeat from * all around. Join.

Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour and Saxony rounds, on each of the Saxony rounds having two more stitches between the increasings until there are nine stitches between. Then make one Saxony round without any increasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the next Saxony row the front of cap is commenced. Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first 88 stitches and fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left for the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour row once more then commence the lattice pattern.

First pattern row: draw up a long loop of Pompadour and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of Pompadour through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each stitch of row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Second row: turn, * draw the second loop through the first loop and in it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten off Pompadour.

Third row: go back to other end, make a loop of Saxony on hook, then make 88 s. d. c. along the row and fasten off. Take up both threads of the previous row.

Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 slip stitch in the front thread of each stitch of third row. Use Pompadour.