Part 2

Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 28 stitches and work in Automobile Stitch (see page 6) until there are four patterns of 14 clusters each. Then increase by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every afghan row until there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three patterns of 26 clusters when the work should be long enough to reach to the neck. On the next afghan row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, (20 in all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for the left shoulder. On next afghan row, increase one stitch at the neck end, make 2 knitted rows then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over and through 3 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On the next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. Continue increasing in this way, at neck end, ½ cluster on each cluster row, until there are 14 clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters. On the second knit row decrease as follows: k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 8.

Decrease in the same way on each of the next 3 pattern rows, having 2 stitches less between the decreasings on each pattern.

Make 5 patterns of 10 clusters each, knit 3 rows and bind off.

Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick up the final 20 stitches for the afghan row. On these stitches make right front to correspond to left front.

Still using principal color, work around the entire jacket, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip enough space to make work lie flat and repeat from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color through loop on hook. Ch. 1, draw up loop about ¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the chain space, wool over and pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster in each corner to prevent capping. Join with a slip stitch in the top of first cluster. Pull a loop of principal color through and make cluster round as before, putting clusters in the top of cluster of preceding round, followed by a round of clusters in contrasting color. Final round: use principal color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. in same space, skip 1 cluster and repeat from * all around.

Lace up under arms with ribbons.

ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS.

Materials Required:

2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long. 1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long.

Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row.

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and knitting the thread) k. 34, increase, knit 2, increase, k. 34, increase, k. 1.

Third and every alternate row: purl.

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for center, then reverse directions.

Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39, increase, knit 2 and reverse.

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and reverse. Purl 1 row.

First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 double crochet (see page 6 ) in the first stitch. * 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c. through the back of the same two and repeat from * ending with 1 d. c. in the last stitch.

Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Third row: like first. Purl three rows.

Repeat the first and second rows.

Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over and repeat from *, k. 43.

Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 2, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 40.

Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. through next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 (center) and reverse directions.

Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, purl 37.

On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog., k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn.

Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn.

Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows.

Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn.

Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1. Turn.

Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn.

Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, in all, on the pins; then continue along the row, knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand needle. Purl 1 row.

First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row.

Repeat first row.

[Illustration]

Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, increase k. 1.

Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, ending by increasing, then purling last 3.

Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then repeat the fifth and sixth rows.

Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, then make four plain rows of alternate knitting and purling and bind off. Sew up seams.

[Illustration:

Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting ]

BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box). 2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and 3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13. 1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long).

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 50 stitches loosely and knit 14 rows (7 purls) in plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of each row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and put thread back under the point of the pin, thus forming a chain edge. The work should measure fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth.

The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw two threads of the contrasting color through (one of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break off the principal color: knit two rows in plain garter stitch; then using same color and crochet hook make _first pattern row_. Insert the hook through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin, holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from the pin. * Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through two, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.

Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 tog. and repeat from * all along row, knit final stitch. When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute the pattern and are repeated five times for the border at each end of the scarf.

The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 45 inches long. Repeat border, then make 14 rows, in garter stitch and bind off.

Pick up all the stitches along one side of the scarf with principal color and crochet hook, taking up both stitches of chain as one stitch and taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting color; knit off with knitting pin, making 4 rows of garter stitch, then draw through contrasting color, dropping principal color and make two rows of garter stitch, next make the three pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of principal color in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch, binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the other side.

Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * insert the crochet hook in first stitch on bottom of scarf and with double thread of principal color, chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool over, insert hook into last chain made and pull up long loop, repeat from—four times, wool over and through all loops on hook, chain 1, pull up long loop and catch with slip stitch in chain in which cluster was made, make a tight s. c. around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom of scarf, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * all across the end. With two threads of contrasting color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe as made in principal color. To gain the cross effect, slip chain made and ball of wool through long loop of principal color before making the s. c. in the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel consists of 10 loops of 20 chain stitches made with single thread to correspond.

[Illustration:

Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting ]

EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. 9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Wind the wools in separate balls.

Using a thread of each wool and the knitting pins, cast on 38 stitches, loosely. Knit two rows.

First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two stitches, wool over and pick up a loop around third stitch of first foundation row, wool over and draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, slip stitch from knitting pin thus forming one cluster. Knit the next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first row and make cluster, (as before) around the next stitch and the stitch on pin, knit 1 stitch and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last stitches of preceding row and k. 1 in each intervening stitch.

Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 cluster around end stitch of second pattern row and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row, ending the row with knit 2.

Fourth row: like second.

Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the desired width, about 20 inches, then omit the widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all the crocheted rows like first row, until the work is 68 inches in length. Make second end of scarf to match first end; decreasing on each knitted row by knitting together the two first and two last stitches, being careful to preserve the pattern. When there are again 38 stitches on needle, bind off.

Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: * 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 double crochet stitch in same stitch, skip enough space to make work smooth and repeat from * to the end. This is ordinary crocheting.

Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: * draw up the loop on hook about ¾ in., wool over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat directions from *. Skip one stitch on edge of scarf and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning all across edge. Make scallop on second side and finish second end like first.

Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and knot 4 threads of each wool through the s. c. in the center of each knot stitch loop.

[Illustration]

SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK.

Materials Required:

10 balls Bear Macramé, No. 100. 1 wood knitting pin, No. 1. 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. 2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter.

Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each chain to the end. The work should measure full 20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more material will be required.

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and the loop on hook.

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. 100 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. The second, third, fourth and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are repeated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat the second and third rows. Fold in center and slip stitch together working on right side.

Make second bag in same manner.

Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: beginning in the center heavy bar, of one side make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar and repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the center bar in which round was commenced, join and fasten off for one bag. For the second bag, after joining, draw up loop and work in knot stitch, as follows: draw up the loop on hook a _full_ ½ inch, cord over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of a single crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull cord through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat from *. Skip 4 chains on the top of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from beginning all around the top of bag.

Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before, to turn 1 s. c. through the double thread on right side of last knot of first row and another s. c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. c. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed every time the loops are caught down.

Repeat second row until the center of knot stitch measures 12 inches then slip rings over and join on second bag to match first.

Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, make * 1 slip stitch in knot, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around.

AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. 9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 26 stitches with the principal color. Knit two plain rows.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * across row, k. last stitch.

Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and repeat from *.

Knit two rows plain.

Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet hook, pull a loop through the first stitch, ch. 1 tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up a loop, inserting hook from first to second opening in third row, wool over, through 2 loops on needle, wool over, pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool over and through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next two stitches tog., wool over twice, pick up a loop from the second to third opening in third row, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat from * across row, k. the last 2 stitches.

Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, k. 3. * on the contrasting thread before the next stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and repeat from *, knit last stitch.

With principal color knit 4 rows.

These last ten rows constitute one pattern.

Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 31 inches long and seven inches wide.

Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner.

[Illustration]

Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches.

First row: knit plain.

Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2.

Third row: knit plain.

Fourth row: like second.

Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6.

Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 2.

Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4.

Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2.

Ninth row: like seventh.

Tenth row: like sixth.

Eleventh row: like fifth.

Repeat from the beginning of the second row.

These ten rows constitute one pattern and are made over and over again until stripe is same length as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe in same way.

Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet stitches worked on wrong side of afghan.

Border. Across each end, with contrasting color, make scallops, as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip about 4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 3 on the Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of Diamond stripe) pick up a loop, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up third loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and through 4, wool over and through 2, ch. 2 and repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, ch. 1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make same scallop all across.

With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space of scallop, ch. 2, — 1 d. c. around the post at the top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next space. Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the s. c. of row below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all across scallops.

Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the s. c. just made, skip enough space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip as before and repeat.

[Illustration:

Persian Scarf ]

PERSIAN SCARF.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. 4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook No. 13, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and use two threads. Cast on 200 stitches which should make length of scarf two yards.

First row: with two threads of Shetland and one of Persian Lamb used together knit each stitch: turn.

Second row: divide threads holding the Persian Lamb at the back of work, as regular knitting thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet hook, pull a loop of Persian Lamb through first stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then throw Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the loop of Persian Lamb just made. Repeat from * in each stitch of previous row, always keeping Shetland Floss in front of work.

Repeat the first and second rows, twice.

Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool temporarily, add two more threads of Shetland Floss and using the four threads together knit 2 rows in plain garter stitch.

Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as seventh row was made and again repeat first and second rows.

This completes the border. Fasten off the Persian Lamb wool and substitute for it two threads of Shetland Floss.

Repeat first and second rows alternately until there are 20 ridges, which should measure full 12 inches for the center of the scarf.

Repeat the border as made on the other edge and bind off.