Part 13

viii. _Knight and his Wife_.--_Sup._--To Sir Francis Wyatt Truscott (Lady Truscott).

_Comm._ and _Con._ as preceding.

ix. _Esquire._--This title is now accorded to every man of position and respectability, but persons entitled to superior consideration are distinguished by "&c., &c., &c.," added to their superscription.

The wives of Gentlemen, when several of the same name are married, are distinguished by the Christian name of their husbands, as Mrs. _John_ Harvey, Mrs. _William_ Temple.

x. _Privy Councillors_.--These have the title of _Right Honourable_, which is prefixed to their name thus:

_Sup._--To the Right Honourable William Ewart Gladstone, M.P.

_Comm._--Sir.

_Con._--I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient very humble servant.

[Footnote 1: Adapted from the "Dictionary of Daily Wants," published by Houlston and Sons, Paternoster Square, E.C., in one volume, half bound, at 7s. 6d., or in three separate volumes, cloth, each 2s. 6d.]

241. The Clergy.

i. _Archbishop_.--Sup.--To His Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury.

_Comm._--Your Grace.

_Con._--I remain, Your Grace's most devoted obedient servant.

ii. _Bishop_.--_Sup._--To the Right Reverend the Bishop of Winchester.

_Comm._--Right Reverend Sir.

_Con._--I remain, Right Reverend Sir, Your most obedient humble servant.

iii. _Doctor of Divinity_.--_Sup._--To the Reverend James William Vivian, D.D., or, To the Reverend Dr. Vivian.

_Comm._--Reverend Sir.

_Con._--I have the honour to be, Reverend Sir, Your most obedient servant.

iv. _Dean._--_Sup._--To the Very Reverend The Dean of St. Paul's; or, To the Very Reverend Richard William Church, M.A., D.C.L., D.D., Dean of St. Paul's.

_Comm._--Mr. Dean; or, Reverend Sir.

_Con._--I have the honour to be, Mr. Dean (or Reverend Sir), Your most obedient servant.

v. _Archdeacon_.--_Sup._--To the Venerable Archdeacon Hessey, D.C.L.

_Comm._--Reverend Sir.

_Con._--I have the honour to remain, Reverend Sir, Your most obedient servant.

vi. _Clergymen_.--_Sup._--To the Reverend Thomas Dale.

_Com._ and _Con._ same as the preceding.

vii. _Clergymen with Titles_.--When a Bishop or other Clergyman possesses the title of _Right Honourable_ or _Honourable_, it is prefixed to his Clerical title, but Baronets and Knights have their clerical title placed first, as in the following examples:--

_Sup._--To the Right Honourable and Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Bath and Wells.

_Sup._--To the Honourable and Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Norwich.

_Sup._--To the Right Honourable and Reverend Lord Wriothesley Russell, M.A.

_Sup._--To the Honourable and Reverend Baptist Wriothesley Noel, M.A.

_Sup._--To the Reverend Sir Henry R. Dukinfield, Bart, M.A.

No clerical dignity confers a title or rank on the wife of the dignitary, who is simply addressed _Mistress_, unless possessing a title in her own right, or through her husband, independently of his clerical rank.

242. Judges &c.

i. _Lord Chancellor_.--_Sup._--To the Right Honourable Roundell Palmer, Lord Selborne, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain.

ii. _Master of the Rolls._--_Sup._--To the Right Honourable the Master of the Rolls.

iii. _Chief Justice_.--_Sup._--To the Right Honourable the Lord Chief Justice; or, the Right Honourable Lord Coleridge, Lord Chief Justice of England.

The Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas is addressed in the same form, and are all styled _My Lord_.

iv. _Lords Justices of Appeal_.--The Lords Justices of Appeal are Knights, and should be addressed thus:

_Sup_.--To the Right Honourable Sir W. Milbourne James, Knt.

v. _Judge of County Courts._--_Sup_.--To His Honour John James Jeffreys, Judge of County Courts.

[A DIRTY GRATE MAKES DINNER LATE.]

243. Officers of the Navy and Army.

i. _Naval Officers._--Admirals have the rank of their flag added to their own name and title thus:

_Sup_.--To the Honourable Sir Richard Saunders Dundas, Admiral of the White.

If untitled, they are simply styled _Sir_.

_Commodores_ are addressed in the same way as admirals.

_Captains_ are addressed either to "Captain William Smith, R.N.;" or if on service, "To William Smith, Esquire, Commander of H.M.S.--"

_Lieutenants_ are addressed in the same way.

ii. _Military Officers._--All officers in the army above Lieutenants, Cornets, and Ensigns, have their military rank prefixed to their name and title.

_Sup_.--To _General_ Sir Frederick Roberts.

_Subalterns_ are addressed as _Esquire_, with the regiment to which they belong, if on service.

244. Municipal Officers.

i. _Lord Mayor.--Sup_.--To the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor (_The Lady Mayoress_) of London, York, Dublin; The Lord Provost (_The Lady Provost_) of Edinburgh.

_Comm_.--My Lord (_Madam_).

_Con_.--I have the honour to be, my Lord, Your Lordship's (_Madam, Your Ladyship's_) most obedient humble servant.

ii. The Mayors of all Corporations, with the Sheriffs, Aldermen, and Recorder of London, are styled _Right Worshipful_; and the Aldermen and Recorder of other Corporations, as well as Justices of the Peace, _Worshipful_.

245. Ambassadors.

Ambassadors have _Excellency_ prefixed to the other titles, and their accredited rank added.

_Sup_.--To His Excellency Count Karolyi, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary from H.I.M. (His Imperial Majesty) The Emperor of Austria.

_Sup_.--To His Excellency The Right Honourable Earl of Dufferin, K.P., G.C.M.G., K.C.B., Her Britannic Majesty's Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to the Sublime Ottoman Porte.

_Comm_.--My Lord.

_Con_.--I have the honour to be, My Lord, Your Excellency's Most humble obedient servant.

The wives of Ambassadors have also Excellency added to their other titles.

Envoys and Chargés d'Affaires are generally styled Excellency, but by courtesy only.

Consuls have only their accredited rank added to their names or titles, if they have any.

246. Addresses of Petitions, &c.

i. _Queen in Council._--All applications to the Queen in Council, the Houses of Lords and Commons, &c., are by _Petition_, as follows, varying only the title:

To the Queen's most Excellent Majesty in Council, The humble Petition of M.N., &c., showeth That your Petitioner.... Wherefore Your Petitioner humbly prays that Your Majesty will be graciously pleased to.... And Your Petitioner, as in duty bound, will ever pray.

ii. _Lords and Commons._--To the Right Honourable the Lords Spiritual and Temporal (To the Honourable the Commons) of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, in Parliament assembled.

The humble Petitioner &c. And your Petitioner [or Petitioners] will ever pray, &c.

247. To those who Write for the Press.

It would be a great service to editors and printers if all who write for the press would observe the following rules. They are reasonable, and correspondents will regard them as such:

i. write with black ink, on white paper, wide ruled.

ii. Make the pages or folios small, one-fourth of a foolscap sheet is large enough.

iii. Leave the second page of each leaf blank; or, in other words, write on one side of the paper only.

iv. Give to the written page an ample margin _all round_; or fold down the left hand side to the extent of one-fourth the width of the entire paper so as to leave a broad margin on the left side of the paper.

v. Number the pages; in the order of their succession.

vi. Write in a plain, bold, legible hand, without regard to beauty of appearance.

vii. Use no abbreviations which are not to appear in print.

viii. Punctuate the manuscript as it should be printed.

ix. For italics underscore one line; for small capitals, two; capitals, three.

x. Never interline without the caret (^) to show its place.

xi. Take special pains with every letter in proper names.

xii. Review every word, to be sure that none is illegible.

xiii. Put directions to the printer at the head of the first page.

xiv. Never write a private letter to the editor on the printer's copy, but always on a separate sheet.

248. Hints to those who have Pianofortes.

i. Damp is very injurious to a pianoforte; it ought therefore to be placed in a dry place, and not exposed to draughts.

ii. Keep your piano free from dust, and do not allow needles, pins, or bread to be placed upon it, especially if the key-board is exposed, as such articles are apt to get inside and produce a jarring or whizzing sound.

iii. Do not load the top of a piano with books, music, &c., as the tone is thereby deadened, and the disagreeable noise alluded to in the last paragraph is often produced likewise.

iv. Have your piano tuned about every two months; whether it is used or not, the strain is always upon it, and if it is not kept up to concert pitch it will not stand in tune when required, which it will do if it be attended to regularly.

v. An upright instrument sounds better if placed about two inches from the wall.

vi. When not in use keep the piano locked.

vii. To make the polish look nice, rub it with an old silk handkerchief, being careful first of all to dust off any small

## particles, which otherwise are apt to scratch the surface.

viii. Should any of the notes keep down when struck, it is a sure sign that there is damp somewhere, which has caused the small note upon which the key works to swell.

249. Gardening Operations for the Year.

250. January.--Flowers of the Month.

Christmas Rose, Crocus, Winter Aconite, Alyssum, Primrose, Snowdrop.

251. Gardening Operations.

In-door preparations for future operations must be made, as in this month there are only five hours a day available for out-door work, unless the season be unusually mild. Mat over tulip beds, begin to force roses. Place pots over seakale and surround them with manure, litter, dried leaves, &c. Plant dried roots of border flowers in mild weather. Take strawberries in pots into the greenhouse. Take cuttings of chrysanthemums and strike them under glass. Prune and plant gooseberry, currant, fruit, and deciduous trees and shrubs. Cucumbers and melons to be sown in the hot-bed. Apply manures to the soil.

252. February.--Flowers of the Month.

Snowdrop, Violet, Alyssum, Primrose.

253. Gardening Operations.

Transplant pinks, carnations, sweet-williams, candy-tuft, campanulas, &c. Sow sweet and garden peas and lettuces, for succession of crops, covering the ground with straw, &c. Sow also Savoys, leeks, and cabbages. Prune and nail fruit trees, and towards the end of the month plant stocks for next year's grafting; also cuttings of poplar, elder, willow trees, for ornamental shrubbery. Sow fruit and forest tree seeds.

254. March.--Flowers of the Month.

Primrose, Narcissus, Hyacinth, Wallflower, Hepatica, Daisy, Polyanthus.

255. Gardening Operations.

Seeds of "spring flowers" to be sown. Border flowers to be planted out. Tender annuals to be potted out under glasses. Mushroom beds to be made. Sow artichokes, Windsor beans, and cauliflowers for autumn; lettuces and peas for succession of crops, onions, parsley, radishes, Savoys, asparagus, red and white cabbages, and beet; turnips, early brocoli, parsnips and carrots. Plant slips and parted roots of perennial herbs. Graft trees and protect early blossoms. Force rose-tree cuttings under glasses.

256. April.--Flowers of the Month.

Cowslip, Anemone, Ranunculus, Tulip, Polyanthus, Auricula, Narcissus, Jonquil, Wallflower, Lilac, Laburnum.

257. Gardening Operations.

Sow for succession peas, beans, and carrots; parsnips, celery, and seakale. Sow more seeds of "spring flowers." Plant evergreens, dahlias, chrysanthemums, and the like, also potatoes, slips of thyme, parted roots, lettuces, cauliflowers, cabbages, onions. Lay down turf, remove caterpillars. Sow and graft camelias, and propagate and graft fruit and rose trees by all the various means in use. Sow cucumbers and vegetable marrows for planting out. _This is the most important month in the year for gardeners._

258. May.--Flowers of the Month.

Hawthorn, Gentianella, Anemone, Ranunculus, Columbine, Honeysuckle, Laburnum, Wistaria.

259. Gardening Operations.

Plant out your seedling flowers as they are ready, and sow again for succession larkspur, mignonette, and other spring flowers. Pot out tender annuals. Remove auriculas to a north-east aspect. Take up bulbous roots as the leaves decay. Sow kidney beans, brocoli for spring use, cape for autumn, cauliflowers for December; Indian corn, cress, onions to plant out as bulbs next year, radishes, aromatic herbs, turnips, cabbages, savoys, lettuces, &c. Plant celery, lettuces, and annuals; thin spring crops; stick peas, &c. Earth up potatoes, &c. Moisten mushroom beds.

260. June.--Flowers of the Month.

Water-lily, Honeysuckle, Sweet-william, Pinks, Syringa, Rhododendron, Delphinium, Stock.

261. Gardening Operations.

Sow giant stocks to flower next spring. Take slips of myrtles to strike, pipings of pinks, and make layers of carnation. Put down layers and take cuttings of roses and evergreens. Plant annuals in borders, and place auriculas in pots in shady places. Sow kidney beans, pumpkins, cucumbers for pickling, and (late in the month) endive and lettuces. Plant out cucumbers, marrows, leeks, celery, broccoli, cauliflowers, savoys, and seedlings, and plants propagated by slips. Earth up potatoes, &c. Cut herbs for drying when in flower.

262. July.--Flowers of the Month.

Rose, Carnation, Picotee, Asters, Balsams.

263. Gardening Operations.

Part auricula and polyanthus roots. Take up summer bulbs as they go out of flower, and plant saffron crocus and autumn bulbs. Gather seeds. Clip evergreen borders and edges, strike myrtle slips under glasses. Net fruit trees. Finish budding by the end of the month. Head down espaliers. Sow early dwarf cabbages to plant out in October for spring; also endive, onions, kidney beans for late crop, and turnips. Plant celery, endive, lettuces, cabbages, leeks, strawberries, and cauliflowers. Tie up lettuces. Earth celery. Take up onions, &c., for drying.

264. August.--Flowers of the Month.

Geranium, Verbena, Calceolaria, Hollyhock.

265. Gardening Operations.

Sow annuals to bloom indoors in winter, and pot all young stocks raised in the greenhouse. Sow early red cabbages, cauliflowers for spring and summer use, cos and cabbage lettuce for winter crop. Plant out winter crops. Dry herbs and mushroom spawn. Plant out strawberry roots, and net currant trees, to preserve the fruit through the winter.

266. September.--Flowers of the Month.

Clematis, or Traveller's Joy, Jasmine, Passion Flower, Arbutus.

267. Gardening Operations.

Plant crocuses, scaly bulbs, and evergreen shrubs. Propagate by layers and cuttings of all herbaceous plants, currant, gooseberry, and other fruit trees. Plant out seedling pinks. Sow onions for spring plantation, carrots, spinach, and Spanish radishes in warm spots. Earth up celery. House potatoes and edible bulbs. Gather pickling cucumbers. Make tulip and mushroom beds.

268. October.--Flowers of the Month.

Asters, Indian Pink, Chrysanthemum, Stock.

269. Gardening Operations.

Sow fruit stones for stocks for future grafting, also larkspurs and the hardier annuals to stand the winter, and hyacinths and smooth bulbs in pots and glasses. Plant young trees, cuttings of jasmine, honeysuckle, and evergreens. Sow mignonette for pots in winter. Plant cabbages, &c., for spring. Cut down asparagus, separate roots of daisies, irises, &c. Trench, drain, and manure.

270. November.--Flowers of the Month.

Laurestinus, Michaelmas Daisy, Chrysanthemum.

271. Gardening Operations.

Sow sweet peas and garden peas for early flowers and crops. Take up dahlia roots. Complete beds for asparagus and artichokes. Plant dried roots of border flowers, daisies, &c. Take potted mignonette indoors. Make new plantations of strawberries, though it is better to do this in October. Sow peas, leeks, beans, and radishes. Plant rhubarb in rows. Prune hardy trees, and plant stocks of fruit trees. Store carrots, &c. Shelter from frost where it may be required. Plant shrubs for forcing. Continue to trench and manure vacant ground.

272. December.--Flowers of the Month.

Cyclamen and Winter Aconite Holly berries are now available for floral decoration.

273. Gardening Operations.

Continue in open weather to prepare vacant ground for spring, and to protect plants from frost. Cover bulbous roots with matting. Dress flower borders. Prepare forcing ground for cucumbers, and force asparagus and seakale. Plant gooseberry, currant, apple, and pear trees. Roll grass-plats if the season be mild and not too wet. Prepare poles, stakes, pea-sticks, &c., for spring.

274. Kitchen Garden.

This is one of the most important parts of general domestic economy, whenever the situation of a house and the size of the garden will permit the members of a family to avail themselves of the advantages it offers. It is, indeed, much to be regretted that small plots of ground, in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis more especially, are too often converted into flower gardens and shrubberies, or used as mere play-grounds for children, when they might more usefully be employed in raising vegetables for the family. With a little care and attention, a kitchen garden, though small, might be rendered not only useful, but, in fact, as ornamental as a modern grass lawn; and the same expense incurred to make the ground a laboratory of sweets, might suffice to render it agreeable to the palate as well as to the olfactory nerves, and that even without offending the most delicate optics. It is only in accordance with our plan to give the hint and to put before the reader such novel points as may facilitate the proposed arrangement. It is one objection to the formation of a kitchen garden in front of the dwelling, or in sight of the drawing-room and parlour, that its very nature makes it rather an eyesore than otherwise at all seasons. This, however, may be readily got over by a little attention to neatness and good order, for the vegetables themselves, if properly attended to, may be made really ornamental; but then, in cutting the plants for use, the business must be done neatly--all useless leaves cleared from the ground, the roots no longer wanted taken up, and the ravages of insects guarded against by sedulous extirpation. It will also be found a great improvement, where space will admit of it, to surround the larger plots of ground, in which the vegetables are grown, with flower borders stocked with herbaceous plants and others, such as annuals and bulbs in due order of succession, or with neat espaliers, with fruit trees, or even gooseberry and currant bushes, trained along them, instead of being suffered to grow in a state of ragged wildness, as is too often the case.

[A WAITING APPETITE KINDLES MANY A SPITE.]

275. Artificial Mushroom Beds.

Mushrooms may be grown in pots, boxes, or hampers. Each box may be about three feet long, one and a half broad, and seven inches in depth. Let each box be half filled with manure in the form of fresh horse-dung from the stables, the fresher the better, but if wet, it should be allowed to dry for three or four days before it is put into the boxes. When the manure has been placed in the box it should be well beaten down. After the second or third day, if the manure has begun to generate heat, break each brick of mushroom spawn (which may be obtained from any seedsman) into pieces about three inches square, then lay the pieces about four inches apart upon the surface of the manure in the box; here they are to lie for six days, when it will probably be found that the side of the spawn next to the manure has begun to run in the manure below; then add one and a half inch more of fresh manure on the top of the spawn in the box, and beat it down as formerly. In the course of a fortnight, when you find that the spawn has run through the manure, the box will be ready to receive the mould on the top; this mould must be two and a half inches deep, well beaten down, and the surface made quite even. In the space of five or six weeks the mushrooms will begin to come up; if the mould then seems dry, give it a gentle watering with lukewarm water. The box will continue to produce from six weeks to two months, if duly attended to by giving a little water when dry, for the mushrooms need neither _light_ nor _free air_. If cut as button mushrooms each box will yield from twenty-four to forty-eight pints, according to the season and other circumstances. They may be kept in dry dark cellars, or any other places where the frost will not reach them. By preparing in succession of boxes, mushrooms may be had all the year through.--They may be grown without the manure, and be of a finer flavour. Take a little straw, and lay it carefully in the bottom of the mushroom box, about an inch thick, or rather more. Then take some of the spawn bricks and break them down--each brick into about ten pieces, and lay the fragments on the straw, as close to each other as they will lie. Cover them up with mould three and a half inches deep, and well pressed down. When the surface appears dry give a little tepid water, as directed for the mode of raising them described above, but this method needs about double the quantity of water that the former does, owing to having no moisture in the bottom, while the other has the manure. The mushrooms will begin to start in a month or five weeks, sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according to the heat of the place where the boxes are situated.

[SOME HOURS WE SHOULD FIND FOR THE PLEASURES OF THE MIND.]

276. Dwarf Plants.

The following method of producing miniature trees is taken from an article on this subject in 'Gardening Illustrated'.

"Take an orange, and having cut a hole in the peel about the size of a shilling, take out the juice and pulp. Fill the skin thus emptied with some cocoa-nut fibre, fine moss, and charcoal, just stiffened with a little loam, and then put an acorn or a date stone, or the seed or kernel of any tree that it is proposed to obtain in a dwarfed form in this mixture, just about the centre of the hollow orange peel. Place the orange peel in a tumbler or vase in a window, and occasionally moisten the contents with a little water through the hole in the peel, and sprinkle the surface apparent through the hole with some fine woodashes. In due time the tree will push up its stem through the compost and the roots will push through the orange peel. The roots must then be cut off flush with the peel, and this process must be repeated at frequent intervals for about two years and a half. The stem of the tree will attain the height of four or five inches and then assume a stunted gnarled appearance, giving it the appearance of an old tree. When the ends of the roots are cut for the last time, the orange peel, which, curiously enough, does not rot, must be painted black and varnished."

The writer of the article saw this process carried out by a Chinaman that he had in his service, and the trees thrived and presented a healthy appearance for eight years, when the Chinaman left his employ and took the trees with him. He tried the plan which has been described but failed, but he was successful with an acorn and a datestone which were planted each in a thumb-pot in a mixture of peat and loam. The dwarfing was effected by turning the plants out of the pots at intervals of six weeks and pinching off the ends of the roots that showed themselves behind the compost. This shows that the production of dwarf plants is chiefly due to a constant and systematic checking of the root growth.

277. To Clear Rose Trees from Blight.

Mix equal quantities of Sulphur and tobacco dust, and strew the mixture over the trees of a morning when the dew is on them. The insects will disappear in a few days. The trees should then be syringed with a decoction of elder leaves.

278. To prevent Mildew on all sorts of Trees.

The best preventive against mildew is to keep the plant subject to it occasionally syringed with a decoction of elder leaves, which will prevent the fungus growing on them.

279. Your Friend the Toad.