Part VII

[284]

The helmets, breastplates and gauntlets described in parts V and VI can be used in making up a complete model

[Illustration: Full Suit of Armor]

for a full suit of armor of any size, as shown in Fig. 1. All of the parts for the armor have been described, except that for the legs. Figure 2 shows how the armor is modeled on the side of the left leg. The clay is modeled as described in previous chapters, the paper covering put on, and the tinfoil applied in imitation of steel. The chain mail seen between and behind the tassets is made by sewing small steel rings on a piece of cloth as shown in Fig. 3. These rings may be purchased at a hardware store or harness shop.

The whole figure when completed is placed on a square box covered with red or green baize. The armor should be supported by a light frame of wood built up on the inside, says the English Mechanic, London. Two vertical pieces are firmly attached to the box so they will extend up inside the legs, and at the top of them is attached a crosspiece on which is placed a vertical stick high enough to carry the helmet. The two lower pieces must be built up and padded out with straw, then covered with red cloth or baize to represent the legs.

In making up the various pieces for a full model it will be found very convenient to use rope, a stout cord or strings in making up the patterns on the parts. Instead of using brass-headed nails, brass paper fasteners will be found useful. These can be purchased at a stationery store. Secure the kind having a round brass head from which hang two brass tongues. These are pushed through a hole and spread out flat on the opposite side. Other materials can be used in the place of tinfoil to represent steel. Silver paper will do very well, but if either the tinfoil or silver paper are found difficult to manipulate, go over the armor with a coat of silver paint put on with a brush. When dry give the surface a coat of varnish.

** A Home-Made Tripod Holder [284]

An inexpensive tripod holder, one that will prevent the tripod from slipping on a smooth floor, and prevent the points from doing damage to the polished surface or puncturing an expensive rug or carpet, can be made in a few minutes' time, says Camera Craft.

Secure two strips of wood, or ordinary plaster laths will do, and plane them down to a thickness of 3/16 in., for the sake of lightness. Cut them to a length or 40 in. and round off the ends to improve their appearance. Take the piece shown in Fig. 1 and drill a 1/4-in. hole in the center, and eight small holes, 1 in. apart, at each end. In one end of the piece, Fig. 2, make the same series of eight small holes and, in the other end, drill six 1/4-in. holes, 3 in. apart. A 1/4-in. flat headed carriage bolt, about 1 in. long, completes the equipment.

The two pieces are bolted together, not too tight, and the points of the tripod legs inserted in their respective small holes. So set up, there is absolutely no danger of one of the legs slipping out of position. By moving the position of the bolt from, one to another of the larger holes in the strip, Fig. 2, almost any desired inclination of the camera can be secured.

The same sort of simple apparatus built slightly stronger, and with a small caster under each of the three series of small holes, makes an

[Illustration: The Tripod Cannot Slip]

excellent tripod clamp for use when the camera has to be shifted about, as in portraiture and the like.

** How to Weave a Shoestring Watch Fob [285]

Having procured a pair of ordinary shoestrings, take both ends of one of them and force the ends through the middle of the other, leaving a loop 1-1/2 in. long, as shown in Fig. 2. In this sketch, A is the first string and B is the second, doubled and run through the web of A. Take hold of the loop and turn it as shown in Fig. 2, allowing the four ends to hang in four directions. Start with one end, the one marked A, in Fig. 1, for instance, and lay it over the one to the right. Then take B and lay it over A, and the one beneath C; lay Cover B and the one under D, and then lay D over C and stick the end under A. Then draw all four ends up snugly. Commence the next layer by laying the end A back over B and D; D over A and C; C over D and B, then B over C and the end stuck under A. Proceed in the same manner and keep on until about 1-1/2 in. of the ends remain unwoven. Four pins stuck through each corner and into the layers will hold the ends from coming apart. The ends of the strings are raveled out so as to make a tassel. This will make a square fob which will appear as shown in Fig. 4.

A round fob is made in a similar way, taking the same start as for the square fob, but instead of reversing

[Illustration: Fobs Made from Shoestrings]

the ends of each alternate layer, always lap one string, as at A in Fig. 3. over the one to its right, as B, slipping the last end of the four strings under and tightening all, as in making the square fob. Fasten the ends with pins and ravel out for a tassel. The round fob is shown in Fig. 5.

A fob in the shape of a horseshoe can be made by taking four shoestrings and tying a small string around the middle of them, then weaving the layers both ways from the point where the strings are tied. A loop, 1-1/2 in. long, is left out at the center before starting on one side. The loop is for attaching the fob to the watch. After the weaving is complete and the tassel ends made, a small stiff wire is forced through the center to form the shape of a horseshoe.

Other designs can be made in the same manner. Strings of different colors will make up a very pretty fob, especially if silk strings are used. --Contributed by John P. Rupp, Monroeville, Ohio.

** How to Make a Table Mat of Leather [286]

The table mat, the design of which is shown herewith, is to be made of leather. It may be made of Russian calf and the background modeled down

[Illustration: Pattern for the Table Mat]

as has been described in several previous articles dealing with leather work. To do this the leather is moistened on the back side just enough to make the leather take the impression of the tool, but not enough to make the moisture show through on the face. Any smooth piece of steel, such as a nut pick, that will not cut or scratch the leather and will make a V-shaped depression will do.

A second method is to secure a piece of sheepskin and, using the reverse side, outline the design by means of a pyrographer's outfit. This manner of treating leather is so common that it needs no description.

A third method is to secure a piece of sheep or goat skin, trace the design on the reverse side by means of carbon paper, and put the outline and design in with brush and stains such as are sold for this purpose.

The accompanying pattern shows but one-fourth of the mat. Draw the one-fourth on paper to the size desired and then fold on lines A and B, tracing this one-fourth on the other parts by the insertion of double-surfaced carbon paper.

On the calfskin the pattern is to be held on the leather and the tool worked over the pattern to get the outline transferred. After this the pattern is to be removed and the leather modeled.

** Sad Iron Polisher [286]

A small amount of wax is necessary on an iron for successful work. The wax is usually applied by hand to the heated surface of the iron. A much better and handier way is to bore five or six holes in one end of the ironing board to a depth of half

[Illustration: Polisher]

its thickness, filling them with wax, beeswax or paraffin, and covering them over with two thicknesses of muslin.

The rubbing of the hot iron over this cloth absorbs just enough of the wax to make the iron work smoothly. When the supply of wax is exhausted, it can be easily renewed. --Contributed by A. A. Houghton, Northville, Mich.

** Making Coins Stick to Wood by Vacuum [287]

Take a quarter and place it flat against a vertical surface of wood such

[Illustration: Floating Coin]

as the side of a bookcase, door facing or door panel, and strike it hard with a downward sliding motion, pressing it against the wood. Take the hand away and the coin will remain on the woodwork. The striking and pressure expel the air between the quarter and the wood, thus forming a vacuum sufficient to hold the coin.

** Simple and Safe Method for Sending Coins by Mail [287]

Sending coins by mail is not as a rule advisable, but sometimes it

[Illustration: How the Paper is Folded]

becomes necessary, and usually a regular coin mailer is not available. A very simple and secure way to wrap a coin or coins for mailing is as follows: Procure a piece of heavy paper, nearly as wide as the envelope is long, and about 12 in. long. Fold on the dotted lines shown by A and B in the sketch, and slip the coin in the pocket thus formed. Fold together on lines C, D, E and F, making the last two folds wide enough to fit snugly in the envelope. This method holds the coin in the center of the envelope where it cannot work around and cut through the edges. --Contributed by O. J. Thompson, Petersburg, Ill.

** Mounting Photographs in Plaster Plaques [287]

Purchase a few pounds of plaster of paris from your local druggist and select a dish of the desired shape in which to make your cast. The size of the dish will depend on the size of the print to be mounted. Select the print you wish to mount, those on matte paper will work best, and after wetting, place it face down in the dish, press into place and remove all drops of water with a soft cloth. Be sure and have the print in the center of the dish. Earthen dishes will be found more convenient, although tin ones can be used with good success, says Photographic Times.

Mix same of the plaster in clear water so it will be a little thick. Enough plaster should. be mixed to cover the bottom of the dish about 1/2 in. thick. Pour the plaster into the dish over the print and allow to stand until it becomes quite hard. The cast can then be removed and the print should be fast to it. If the print or plaster is inclined to stick, take a knife and gently pry around the edges and it can be removed without breaking.

Prints of any size may be used by having the mold or dish large enough to leave a good margin. This is a very important point as it is the margin that adds richness to all prints. Platinum or blueprint papers work well, but any kind that will not stick may be used. After the plaster has thoroughly dried, any tint may be worked on the margin by the use of water colors; if blueprints are used, it is best to leave a plain white margin.

** Iron Rest for an Ironing Board [288]

A flatiron rest can be made on an ironing-board by driving a number of large tacks into one end of the board. The tacks should be about 1 in. apart and driven in only part way, leaving about 1/4 in. remaining above the surface of the board. The hot iron will not burn the wood and it cannot slip off the tacks. This iron rest is always with the board and ready when wanted. --Contributed by Beatrice Oliver, New York, N. Y.

[Illustration: Iron Rest]

** Instantaneous Crystallization [288]

Dissolve 150 parts of hyposulphite of soda in 15 parts of water and pour the solution slowly into a test tube which has been warmed in boiling water, filling the same about onehalf full. Dissolve in another glass 100 parts of acetate of soda in 15 parts of boiling water. Pour this solution slowly on top of the first in such a way that it forms an upper layer, without mixing the solutions. The two solutions are then covered over with a thin layer of boiling water and allowed to cool.

[Illustration: Crystallization]

Lower into the test tube a wire, at the extremity of which is fixed a small crystal of hyposulphite of soda. The crystal traverses the solution of acetate without causing trouble, but crystallization will immediately set in as soon as it touches the lower hyposulphite of soda solution, as shown at the left in the sketch.

When the hyposulphite of soda solution becomes crystallized, lower in the upper solution a crystal of acetate of soda suspended by another wire, as shown in the right of the sketch, and this will crystallize the same as the other solution.

** Decoloration of Flowers by Fumes of Sulphur [288]

Dissolve some sulphur in a small dish which will inflame by contact with air thus forming sulphuric acid fumes. Cover the dish with a conical chimney made of tin and expose to the upper opening the flowers that are to be decolored. The action is very rapid and in a short time myrtle, violets, bell flowers, roses, etc., will be rendered perfectly white.

[Illustration: Flowers]

** How to Preserve Egg Shells [288]

Many naturalists experience difficulty in preserving valuable egg shells. One of the most effective ways of preserving them is as follows: After the egg is blown, melt common beeswax and force it into the shell with a discarded fountain pen filler. Set in a cool place until the wax hardens. The most delicate shells treated in this manner can be handled without fear of breaking, and the transparency of the wax will not alter the color, shading, or delicate tints of the egg. --Contributed by L. L. Shabino, Millstown, South Dakota.

** Homemade Phonograph [289]

Make a box large enough to hold four dry cells and use it as a base to mount the motor on and to support the revolving cylinder. Anyone of the various battery motors may be used to supply the power. The support for the cylinder is first made and located on the cover of the box in such a position that it will give ample room for the motor. The motor base and the support are fastened by screws turned up through the cover or top of the box. The location of these parts is shown in Fig. 1.

The core for holding the cylindrical wax records is 4-1/2 in. long and made of wood, turned a little tapering, the diameter at the small or outer end being 1-5/8 in., and at the larger end, 1-7/8 in. A wood wheel with a V-shaped groove on its edge is nailed to the larger end of the cylinder. The hole in the core is fitted with a brass tube, driven in tightly to serve as a bearing. A rod that will fit the brass tube, not too tightly, but which will not wobble loose, is threaded and turned into the upper end of the support. The core with its attached driving wheel is shown in Fig. 3. The dotted lines show the brass bearing and rod axle. The end of the axle should be provided with a thread over which a washer and nut are placed, to keep the core from coming off in turning.

The sound box, Fig. 2, is about 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick, made of heavy tin. The diaphragm, which should be of thin ferrotype tin, should be soldered to the box. The needle is made of a piece of sewing needle, about 1/8s in. long, and soldered to the center of the diaphragm. The first point should be ground blunt, as shown in the sketch. When soldering these parts together, take care to have the diaphragm lie perfectly flat and not made warping by any pressure applied while the solder is cooling.

The tin horn can be easily made, attached to the sound box with a piece of rubber hose and held so it will swing the length of the record by a rod attached to the top of the box, as shown.

The motor can be controlled by a small three or four-point battery rheostat.

[Illustration: Phonograph and Construction of Parts]

--Contributed by Herbert Hahn, Chicago, Ill.

** A Substitute for a Compass [289]

An easy way to make a pencil compass when one is not at hand, is to take a knife with two blades at one end, open one to the full extent and the other only halfway. Stick the point end of the fully open blade into the side of a lead pencil and use the half-open blade as the center leg of the compass. Turn with the knife handle to make the circle. --Contributed by E. E. Gold. Jr. Victor, Colo.

[Illustration: Pencil on the Knife Blade]

** A Novel Rat Trap [290]

[Illustration: Rat Trap]

A boy, while playing in the yard close to a grain house, dug a hole and buried an old-fashioned fruit jug or jar that his mother had thrown away, says the Iowa Homestead. The top part of the jug was left uncovered as shown in the sketch, and a hole was b r 0 ken in it just above the ground. The boy then placed some shelled corn in the bottom, put a board on top, and weighted it with a heavy stone.

The jug had been forgotten for several days when a farmer found it, and, wondering what it was, he raised the board and found nine full-grown rats and four, mice in the bottom. The trap has been in use for some time and is opened every day or two and never fails to have from one to six rats or mice in it.

** A Nut-Cracking Block [290]

[Illustration: Holes in the Block for Nuts]

In the sketch herewith is shown an appliance for cracking nuts which will prevent many a bruised thumb. To anyone who has ever tried to crack butternuts it needs no further recommendation. The device is nothing more than a good block of hardwood with a few holes bored in it to fit the different sized nuts. There is no need of holding the nut with the fingers, and as hard a blow may be struck as desired. Make the depth of the hole two-thirds the height of the nut and the broken pieces will not scatter. --Contributed by Albert O'Brien, Buffalo, N. Y.

** A Jelly-Making Stand [290]

Every housewife who makes jelly is only too well acquainted with the inconvenience and danger of upsets when using the old method of balancing a

[Illustration: Cheesecloth Strainer on Stand]

jelly-bag on a couple of chairs stood on the kitchen table, with the additional inconvenience of having a couple of chairs on the kitchen table out of commission for such a length of time.

The accompanying sketch shows how a stand can be made from a few pieces of boards that will help jelly makers and prevent the old-time dangers and disadvantages. The stand can be stood in the corner of the kitchen, or under the kitchen table where it will be out of danger of being upset. --Contributed by Lyndwode, Pereira, Ottawa, Can.

** How to Make an Egg-Beater [291]

There is no reason why any cook or housewife should be without this eggbeater, as it can be made quickly in any size. All that is needed is an ordinary can with a tight-fitting cover-a baking-powder can will do. Cut a round piece of wood 3 in. longer than the length of the can. Cut a neat hole in the cover of the can to allow the stick to pass through, and at one end of the stick fasten, by means of a flatheaded tack, a piece of tin, cut round, through which several holes have been punched. Secure another piece of heavier tin of the same size, and make

[Illustration: Made Like a Churn]

a hole in the center to pass the stick through. Put a small nail 2 in. above the end of the dasher, which allows the second tin to pass up and down in the opposite direction to the dasher. This beater will do the work in less time than the regular kitchen utensil. --Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

** Cart Without an Axle [291]

The boy who has a couple of cart wheels is not always lucky enough to have an axle of the proper length to fit the wheels. In such a case the cart can be constructed as shown in the illustration. This cart has no axle, each wheel being attached with a short pin for an axle, on the side and at the lower edge of the box. The outer end of the pin is carried on a piece of wood extending the full length of the box and

[Illustration: Wheels Fastened to the Box]

supported by crosspieces nailed to the ends, as shown. --Contributed by Thos. De Loof, Grand Rapids, Mich.

** An Illuminated Target [291]

My youthful nephews some time ago were presented with an air rifle and it worked so well that it became necessary for me to construct a target that would allow the fun to be carried on at night.

I reversed a door gong, screwed it on the inside of a store box, and fitted two candles on the inside to illuminate the bullseye. The candles, of course, were below the level of the bullseye. The position of the candles and gong are shown in Fig. 1. At night the illuminated interior of the bell could be

[Illustration: FIG. 1; FIG. 2; Target for Night Shooting]

plainly seen as shown in Fig. 2. --Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

** Sawing Sheet Metal [291]

Sheet metal placed between two boards in the jaws of a vise and clamped tightly, can be sawed easily with a hacksaw.

*8 Feed Box for Chickens [292]

The sketch shows the construction of a feed box designed to prevent the scattering of feed and give the coward

[Illustration: Chicken Feed Box]

rooster as much chance to fatten as the game cock. The base may be made of a 1/2-in. board, 1 ft. wide and 3 ft. long, although any of the dimensions may be varied to suit special requirements. The ends are semi-circular pieces with a notch, 1/4 in. deep and 3 in. wide, cut in the center of the rounding edge. The ends are connected together with a piece of wood set in the notches. The strip of wood is 1/4 in. thick, 2 in. wide and as long as the box. Notches 1/8 in. wide and 1/8 in. deep are cut on the under side of this piece of wood, 1-1/2 in. apart. Heavy pieces of wire are bent in the form of a semi-circle, as shown. The wires are set in the 1/8-in. notches cut on the under side of the top piece of wood. The ends of the wires are set in holes in wood pieces joining the bases of the end pieces. The baseboard and top are separable. --Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

** A Book Rest [292]

A book that does not open flat is rather inconvenient to write in when one of its sides is in the position shown in Fig. 2. A wedge-shaped piece of

[Illustration: Book Back Holders]

metal, stone or wood, as shown in Fig. 1, will, when placed as in Fig. 3, raise the sloping half to the level of the other pages. Cover the block with rubber, wide rubber bands or felt, to prevent its scratching the desk top. The block can also be used as a paperweight.

** Window Shelf for Flower Pots [292]

On the ledge formed by the top part of the lower sash of the window I fitted a board 7 in. wide into each side of the casing, by cutting away the ends. I placed a small bracket at each end of the shelf, so that it would fit solidly against the lower window sash to support the weight of the plants.

[Illustration: Shelf in Window]

One of the brackets I nailed to the shelf and the other I held in place with a hinge, the reason being that if both were solid, the shelf could not be put on the window, as one end must be dropped in place before the other. Such a shelf will hold all the plants a person can put on it. When not in use, it can be removed without marring the casing. --Contributed by G. A. Wood, West Union, Ia.

** Magnet for the Work Basket [292]

Tie a ribbon or strong string to the work basket and fasten a large magnet to the other end. Needles, scissors, etc., can be picked up without any trouble. This device is very convenient for invalids. --Contributed by Nellie Conlon, Worcester, Mass.

** Knife Made from a Hack-Saw Blade [293]

A very serviceable knife with excellent cutting qualities can be made easily from a discarded hack-saw blade. The dimensions given in the sketch make a knife of convenient size.

The saw teeth are ground off on an emery wheel or grindstone to a smooth edge parallel with the back edge. For the handle, take two pieces of hard wood, dressing one surface of each piece, and cut a groove as wide and thick as the saw blade. Place the blade in the groove and glue the two dressed sides of the wood together. After the glue has dried, the blade can be pulled out of the groove and the wood shaped to any desired form. A small wood-screw is put through one side of the handle to prevent the blade from sliding. After completing the

[Illustration: Details of Handle]

handle, the blade is put back into the groove and sharpened to a cutting edge. --Contributed by H. A. Hutchins, Cleveland, Ohio.

** Killing Mice and Rats [293]

A simple and inexpensive means for killing mice and rats is to leave yeast cakes lying around where they can eat them. --Contributed by Maud McKee, Erie, Pa.

** Roller Coaster Illusion Traveling Up an Incline [293]

A toy car with a paddle wheel and a shaft on both ends traveling upward on a chute in which water is flowing down, is shown in the accompanying sketch. The paddle wheels travel in a reverse direction causing the ends of the axles to roll on the edge of the chute, thus carrying the car up the incline. If a rack is used on each side of the chute and a small pinion on the

[Illustration: Car Travels Uphill]

ends of the axles, a positive upward movement of the car will be obtained. --Contributed by W. S. Jacobs, Malden; Mass.

** Block for Planing Octagonal Wood Pieces [293]

The little device shown in the illustration will be found very useful in any workshop. Two or three of them will be necessary for planing long pieces. Each one is made of a hardwood block, 1 in. square and 4 in. long. A notch is cut in one side, as shown in Fig. 1, so a piece of wood which has been planed square will fit in it. Put a screw in the end of each piece and fasten it down to the bench. If desired, a tenon may be made on the bottom of each block, as shown in Fig. 2, to fit a mortise cut in the bench. Place the blocks far enough apart so the board to be planed will rest firmly in the notches.

[Illustration: The Notch Holds the Wood]

Plane the board square first and then place it in the notches and plane the corners down to the proper dimensions. --Contributed by Willie Woolsen, Cape May Point, N.J.

** A Letter Holder of Pierced Metal [294]

The letter holder shown in the illustration will be found convenient for holding out-going letters that await the postman's coming. It can be made of either copper or brass and need not

[Illustration: Finished Letter Holder]

be of very heavy material. Gauge 22 will be sufficiently heavy. One sheet of metal, 6 by 9-1/2 in., a board on which to work it, and an awl and hammer, will be needed. Prepare a design for the front. If one such as is shown is to be used,

[Illustration: Layout for the Metal]

make one-quarter of it first, and then get the other parts by folding on the center lines and tracing. This will insure having all parts alike. The letters can be put on afterward.

Fasten the metal to the board, using tacks and nailing outside of the required space, in the waste metal. Trace the design on the metal with carbon paper; or, if desired, paste the paper design right on the metal. With an awl pierce the metal between the marginal line and the design, as shown. The holes should be uniform along the outlines but should be pierced promiscuously otherwise. On the back, only the marginal line is to be pierced.

Remove the metal, together with the paper if the latter was pasted to the metal, and trim off the surplus metal where the tacks had been placed. File off any sharpness so that the hand may not be injured in handling it. Place the metal on the edge of a table or between two boards, and bend on the two lines indicated in the drawing, to right angles.

A good finish is obtained by just letting the copper age with its natural color. If any polishing is required, it should be done before the metal is fastened to the board and pierced.

** Imitating Ground Glass [294]

Make a mixture of white lead in oil, 1 part; varnish, 3/4 part; turpentine, 1/4 part, and add sugar of lead as a dryer. Make a very thin paint of this and use a broad, flat brush, says Master Painter. With care you may succeed in getting the paint on quite evenly all over, which is desirable. One coat will do. If it becomes necessary to remove this coating for renewal, it may be effected by an application of potash lye, or the old may be renewed by a coating of a mixture of 2 parts hydrochloric acid, 2 parts white vitriol, 1 part sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) and 1 part of gum arabic, applied by means of a brush.

** Draw before Cutting [294]

A detail drawing made of a piece of furniture before starting the work will often save time and mistakes.

** Making "Spirits" Play a Violin [295]

A very pretty trick, that can be worked in your own parlor, will produce as much sensation as a fake "medium." In all appearance, a violin, mandolin or guitar, placed on a table, will begin to produce music simply through stamping the foot and a few passes of the hand. The music will not sound natural, but weird and distant.

The trick is done by placing the end of a small stick on a music box in the basement of the house and allowing the other end to pass up through the floor and table top so it will project about 1/16 in. The stick may be placed by the side of, behind or through the center of a table leg. Be careful not to have any obstruction in the way of the stick. The instrument is placed sideways on the protruding end of the stick. The "fake" work of invoking the "spirit" is performed and ended by stamping the foot, which signals the operator in the basement to start the machine, and the violin seemingly produces music without anyone touching it.

So impressive are the results, that many people really think the spirits of the departed are playing the violin with unseen hands. The music is transmitted through the stick from the music box to the violin.

[Illustration: The Music Produced by the Phonograph is Transmitted to the Viohn on the Second Floor by the Aid of a Long Stick]

** Sizing a Threaded Hole [295]

It sometimes becomes necessary to transfer the size of a threaded hole from some out-of-the-way place to the shop in order to make a piece to fit it. With proper tools this is easy; without them, it might be difficult. One thing is always at hand and that is wood. Whittle a stick tapering until it starts in the hole. Then turn it into the hole and a fair thread will be made on the wood. The stick can be carried in the pocket without risk of changing the size, as would be the case with ordinary calipers.

** Leaded-Glass Fire Screen [295]

The main frame of the fire screen shown in Fig. 1 is made from two pieces of 1/2-in. square bar iron. The longest piece, which should be about 5-1/2 ft. long, is bent square so as to form two uprights, each 28 in. long and measuring 26 in. across the top. The bottom crosspiece can be either riveted or welded to the uprights. Two pairs of feet, each 6 in. long and spread about 8 in. apart, are shaped as shown in Fig. 2. These are welded to the lower end of the uprights.

The ornamental scrollwork on the frame is simple and effective, and is easy to construct, says Work, London. The scrolls are attached to the frame by means of 3/16-in. round-head machine screws. The leaf ornament at the

[Illustration: Completed Fire Screen and Parts]

termination of the scroll is shaped and embossed as shown in Fig. 3. The metal used for the scrolls is 3/16 in. thick by 1/2 in. wide. The leaf ornament is formed by turning over the end of a piece of metal and working it together at a welding heat, and then shaping out the leaf with' a chisel and files, after which they are embossed with a ballpeen hammer.

The center is made from colored glass of special make for leaded work. The design is formed in the lead, of which a cross section is shown in Fig. 4. Use care to give the lead a symmetrical outline. The design should be drawn full size on a large sheet of heavy paper and the spaces to be occupied by the lead cut out so as to leave the exact size and shape of each piece of paper the same as wanted for each piece of glass. These are used as patterns in marking the glass for cutting. The glass is cut the same as ordinary window glass. The glass, lead, border and special flux can be purchased from an art glass shop.

After the glass is cut, the work of putting the pieces together with the lead between them is begun. Secure a board as wide as the screen--several narrow boards put together will do and begin by placing one vertical side border, A, Fig. 5, and the base border, B, on it as shown. Place the corner piece of glass, C, in the grooves of the borders, cut a long piece of lead, D, and hold it in place with two or three brads or glazier's points. The piece of lead E is cut and a small tenon joint made as shown in Fig. 6. While the piece of lead D, Fig. 5, is held by the brads, the piece E can be fitted and soldered. The soldering is done with a hot soldering iron and wire solder, using rosin as a flux, or, better still, special flux purchased for this purpose. After the joints are soldered, the piece of glass F is put in place and the lead held with brads as before until the cross leads are fitted and soldered. The brads are then removed, the glass piece as shown by the dotted lines put in, and the leads around it held with brads until the crosspieces are put in and soldered. This method is pursued until the glass is complete, then the two remaining vertical and top pieces of border are put on and all corners soldered.

The leaded glass is held in the iron frame by means of eight U-shaped clips, as shown in Fig. 7. A hole is drilled in the frame for the retaining screw, the latter being tapped to the base of the clip. Special screws may be made with ornamental heads, as shown in Fig. 8, and used for securing the side scrolls and clips together.

** A Revolving Teeter Board [297]

[Illustration: Details of Teeter Board ]

The accompanying sketch shows the details of a revolving teeter board for the children's playground that can be constructed in a few hours. Secure a post, not less than 4 in. square and of the length given in the drawing, and round the corners of one end for a ring. This ring can be made of 1-in. strap iron and it should be shrunk on the post. Bore a 3/4-in. hole in the end of the post for the center pin to rest in. Make three washers 3-in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick and drill 3/4-in. holes through their centers. Drill and countersink two smaller holes for 2-in. wood screws in each washer. Fasten one of these washers to the top of the post as shown. The post is now ready to be set in the ground. Coarse gravel should be packed tightly about it to make it solid. Concrete is much better if it can be secured.

To make the swivel you will need two 1/4 by 5 by 8-in. plates, rounded at the top as shown, and two wood blocks, A and B, each 3-1/2 by 5 by 10 in. Drill the lower ends of the plates for four 2-1/2-in. lag screws and the upper ends for a 5/8-in. bolt. Fasten the plates to the block B, then drill a 3/4-in. hole as shown and fasten the two remaining washers to the block, one on each side and central with the hole. Bore a 5/8-in. hole lengthwise through the block A for the 5/8-in. rocker bolt. This bolt should be 11-1/2 in. long.

The teeter board is made of a 2 by 12-in. plank about 12 ft. long. It should be slightly tapered from the center to the ends. Two styles of hand holds are shown, but the one on the left is the one most generally used. The handles are rounded at the ends and are fastened to the board with lag screws or bolts. The block A is fastened to the board with lag screws and should be a working fit between the wo plates where it is held by means of the 5/8-in. bolt. The center pin is 3/4-in. in diameter and about 9 in. long. --Contributed by W. H. Dreier, Jr., Camden, N. J.

** Home-Made Pot Covers [297]

Empty thread spools and the tins used as extra inside covers in lard cans are usually thrown away, but these can be put to good use as kettle covers, if they are made up as follows: Saw the spool in half as shown, make a hole in the center of the tin and run a screw or nail through the spool and the tin; then flatten its end on the under side. This will make an excellent cover for a pot. --Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

[Illustration: Pot Covers]

** An Outdoor Gymnasium