Part VI
[198]
** A Handkerchief Mended after Being Cut and Torn
Two persons are requested to come forward from the audience to hold the four corners of a handkerchief. Then beg several other handkerchiefs from the audience and place them on the one held by the two persons. When several handkerchiefs have been accumulated, have some one person draw out one from the bunch and examine for any marks that will determine that this handkerchief is the one to be mended after being mutilated. He, as well as others, are to cut off pieces from this handkerchief and to finally tear it to pieces.
The pieces are then all collected and some magic spirits thrown over the torn and cut parts; tie them in a small package with a ribbon and put them under a glass, which you warm with your hands. After a few seconds' time, you remove the glass, as you have held it all the time, and take the handkerchief and unfold it; everyone will recognize the mark and be amazed not to find a cut or tear in the texture.
This trick is very simple. You have an understanding with some one in the company, who has two handkerchiefs exactly alike and has given one of them to a person behind the curtain; he throws the other, at the time of request for handkerchiefs, on the handkerchiefs held for use in the performance of the trick. You manage to keep this handkerchief where it will be picked out in preference to the others, although pretending to thoroughly mix them up. The person selected to pick out a handkerchief naturally will take the handiest one. Be sure that this is the right one.
When the handkerchief has been torn and folded, put it under the glass, on a table, near a partition or curtain. The table should be made with a hole cut through the top and a small trap door fitted snugly in the hole, so it will appear to be a part of the table top. This trap door is hinged on the under side and opens into the drawer of the table and can be operated by the person behind the curtain who will remove the torn handkerchief and replace it with the good one and then close the trap door by reaching through the drawer of the table.
** The Magic Knot [198]
This is a very amusing trick which consists of tying one knot with two ends of a handkerchief, and pulling the
[Illustration: Tying and Untying a Knot]
ends only to untie them again. Take the two diagonal corners of a handkerchief, one in each hand and throw the main part of the handkerchief over the wrist of the left hand and tie the knot as shown in the illustration. Pull the ends quickly, allowing the loop over the left hand to slip freely, and you will have the handkerchief without any knot.
** A Good Mouse Trap [198]
When opening a tomato or other small can, cut the cover crossways from side to side making four triangular pieces in the top. Bend the four ends outward and remove the contents, wash clean and dry and then bend the four ends inward, leaving a hole about 3/4 in. in diameter in the center. Drop in a piece of bread and lay the can down upon its side and the trap is ready for use. The mouse can get in but he cannot get out. --Contributed by E. J. Crocker, Victor, Colo.
** Finishing Aluminum [198]
Rubbing the surface of an aluminum plate with a steel brush will produce a satin finish.
** How to Make a Sailing Canoe [199]
A canvas canoe is easily made and light to handle, but in making one, it must be remembered that the cloth will tear, if any snags are encountered. Therefore such a craft cannot be used in all waters, but by being careful at shores, it can be used as safely as an ordinary sailing canoe. Be sure to select the best materials and when complete cover the seams well with paint.
[Illustration: Completed Sailing Canoe]
The materials necessary for the construction of a sailing canoe, as illustrated in the engraving, are as follows:
1 keelson, 1 in. by 8 in. by 15 ft., selected pine. 14 rib bands, 1 in. square by 16 ft., clear pine. 2 gunwales, 1 in. by 2 in. by 16 ft. 1 piece for forms and bow pieces, 1 in. by 12 in. by 10 ft. 4 outwales, 1/4 in. by 2 in. by 16 ft. 1 piece, 3 in. wide and 12 ft. long, for cockpit frame. 1 piece, 2 in. wide and 12 ft. long, for center deck braces. 11 yd. of 1-1/2-yd. wide 12-oz. ducking. 8 yd. of 1-yd. wide unbleached muslin. 50 ft. of rope. 1 mast, 9 ft. long. Paint, screws and cleats.
The keelson, Fig. 1, is 14 ft. long, 8 in. wide in the center and tapered down from a point 4 ft. from each end to 1 in. at the ends. Both ends are mortised, one 6 in. for the stern piece, and the other 12 in. for the bow. Be sure to get the bow and stern pieces directly in the middle of the keelson and at right angles with the top edge. The stern and bow pieces are cut as shown in Fig. 2 and braced with an iron band, 1/8 in. thick and 3/4 in. wide, drilled and fastened with screws.
Study the sketches showing the details well before starting to cut out the pieces. Then there will be no trouble experienced later in putting the parts together. See that all the pieces fit their places as the work proceeds and apply the canvas with care.
Two forms are made as shown in Figs. 3 and 4; the smaller is placed 3 ft. from the bow and the large one, 7 ft. 3 in. from the stern. The larger mould is used temporarily while making the boat, and is removed after the ribs are in place. The gunwales are now placed over the forms and in the notches shown, and fastened with screws, and, after cutting the ends to fit the bow and stern pieces, they are fastened with bolts put through the three pieces. The sharp edges on one side of each rib-band are removed and seven of them fastened with screws to each side of the moulds, spacing them on the large mould 4 in. apart. The ribs are made of 28 good barrel hoops
[Illustration: Details of a Home-Made Sailing Canoe]
which should be well soaked in water for several hours before bending them in shape. These are put in 6 in. apart and are fastened to the rib-bands with 7/8-in. wood screws. The ribs should be put in straight and true to keep them from pulling the rib-bands out of shape. After the ribs are in place and fastened to the rib-bands, gunwales and keelson, put on the outwale strips and fasten them to the gunwales between every rib with 1-1/2-in. screws.
Before making the deck, a block for the mast to rest in must be made and fastened to the keelson. This block, Fig. 5, is a cube having sides 6 in. square and is kept from splitting by an iron band tightly fitted around the outside. The block is fastened to the keelson, 3-1/2 ft. from the bow, with bolts through countersunk holes from the under side.
There are three deck braces made as shown in Figs. 6, 7 and 8. Braces, Figs. 6 and 7, form the ends of the cockpit which is 20 in. wide. A 6-in. board is fitted into the mortises shown in these pieces; a center piece is fitted in the other mortises. The other deck braces slope down from the center piece and are placed 6 in. apart. They are 1 in. square and are mortised into the center piece and fastened to the gunwales with screws. The main deck braces are fastened to the gunwales with 4-in. corner braces and to the center piece with 2-in. corner braces. The mast hole on the deck is made as follows: Secure a piece of pine 1 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 3 ft. long. Cut this in halves and mortise for the center piece in the two halves and fasten to the gunwales. A block of pine, 4 in. thick and 12 in. long, is cut to fit under the top boards, Fig. 9, and fastened to them with bolts. With an expansive bit bore a hole 3 in. in diameter through the block. Be sure to get the block and hole directly over the block that is fastened to the keelson. Put on a coat of boiled linseed oil all over the frame before proceeding farther.
Putting on the canvas may be a difficult piece of work to do, yet if the following simple directions are followed out no trouble will be encountered. The 11-yd. length of canvas is cut in the center, doubled, and a seam made joining the two pieces together. Fill the seam with thick paint and tack it down with copper tacks along the center of the keelson. When this is well tacked commence stretching and pulling the canvas in the middle of the gunwales so as to make it as even and tight as possible and work toward each end, tacking the canvas as it is stretched to the outside of the gunwale. Seam the canvas along the stern and bow pieces as was done on the keelson. The deck is not so hard to do, but be careful to get the canvas tight and even. A seam should be made along the center piece. The trimming is wood, 1/4 in. thick and 1/2 in. wide. A strip of this is nailed along the center piece over the canvas. The outwales are nailed on over the canvas. A piece of oak, 1 in. thick 1-1/2 in. wide and 14 in. long, is fastened with screws over the canvas on the stern piece; also, a piece 1/4 in. thick, 1 in. wide and 24 in. long is well soaked in water, bent to the right shape and fastened over the canvas on the bow.
The rudder is made as shown in Fig. 10 with a movable handle. A strip 1 in. thick by 2 in. wide, is bolted to the keelson over the canvas for the outer keel. The keel, Fig. 11, is 6 in. wide at one end and 12 in. at the other, which is fastened to the outer keel with bolts having thumb nuts. The mast can be made of a young spruce tree having a diameter of 3 in. at the base with sufficient height to make it 9 ft. long. The canoe is driven by a lanteen sail and two curtain poles, each 1 in. in diameter and 10 ft. long, are used for the boom and gaff, which are held together with two pieces of iron bent as shown in Fig. 12. The sail is a triangle, 9-3/4 by 9-3/4 by 8-1/2 ft. which is held to the boom and gaff by cord lacings run through eyelets inserted in the muslin. The eyelets are of brass placed 4 in. apart in the muslin. The mast has two side and one front stay, each fitted with a turnbuckle for tightening. A pulley is placed at the top and bottom of the mast for the lift rope. The sail is held to the mast by an iron ring and the lift rope at the top of the mast. The boom rope is held in the hand and several cleats should be placed in the cockpit for convenience. A chock is placed at the bow for tying up to piers. Several coats of good paint complete the boat. --Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
** A Home-Made Hand Vise [201]
A very useful little hand vise can easily be made from a hinge and a bolt carrying a wing nut. Get a fast
[Illustration: Hand Vise Made from a Hinge]
joint hinge about 2 in. or more long and a bolt about 1/2 in. long that will fit the holes in the hinge. Put the bolt through the middle hole of the hinge and replace the nut as shown in the drawing. With this device any small object may be firmly held by simply placing it between the sides of the hinge and tightening the nut.
** Proper Design for a Bird House [201]
This bird house was designed and built to make a home for the American martin. The house will accommodate 20 families. All the holes are arranged so they will not be open to the cold winds from the north which often kill the birds which come in the early spring. Around each opening is an extra ring of wood to make a longer passage which assists the martin inside in fighting off the English
[Illustration: Bird House]
sparrow who tries to drive him out. The holes are made oval to allow all the little ones to get their heads out for fresh air. The long overhanging eaves protect the little birds from the hot summer sun. The rooms are made up with partitions on the inside so each opening will have a room. The inside of the rooms should be stained black.
** Boomerangs and How to Make Them [202]
A boomerang is a weapon invented and used by the native Australians, who seemed to have the least intelligence of any race of mankind. The
[Illustration: Details of Three Boomerangs]
boomerang is a curved stick of hardwood, Fig. 1, about 5/16 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 2 ft. long, flat on one side, with the ends and the other side rounding. One end of the stick is grasped in one hand with the convex edge forward and the flat side up and thrown upward. After going some distance and ascending slowly to a great height in the air with a quick rotary motion, it suddenly returns in an elliptical orbit to a spot near the starting point. If thrown down on the ground the boomerang rebounds in a straight line, pursuing a ricochet motion until the object is struck at which it was thrown.
Two other types of boomerangs are illustrated herewith and they can be made as described. The materials necessary for the T-shaped boomerang are: One piece of hard maple 5/16 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide, and 3 ft. long; five 1/2-in. flat-headed screws. Cut the piece of hard maple into two pieces, one 11-1/2 in. and the other 18 in. long. The corners are cut from these pieces as shown in Fig. 2, taking care to cut exactly the same amount from each corner. Bevel both sides of the pieces, making the edges very thin so they will cut the air better. Find the exact center of the long piece and make a line 1-1/4 in. on each side of the center and fasten the short length between the lines with the screws as shown in Fig. 3. The short piece should be fastened perfectly square and at right angles to the long one.
The materials necessary for the cross-shaped boomerang are one piece hard maple 5/16 in. thick, 2 in. wide and 30 in. long and five 1/2-in. flat headed screws. Cut the maple- into two 14-in. pieces and plane the edges of these pieces so the ends will be 1-1/2 in. wide, as shown in Fig. 4. Bevel these pieces the same as the ones for the T-shaped boomerang. The two pieces are fastened together as shown in Fig. 5. All of the boomerangs when completed should be given several coats of linseed oil and thoroughly dried. This will keep the wood from absorbing water and becoming heavy. The last two boomerangs are thrown in a similar way to the first one, except that one of the pieces is grasped in the hand and the throw given with a quick underhand motion. A little practice is all that is necessary for one to become skillful in throwing them. --Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
** How to Make Water Wings [202]
Purchase a piece of unbleached muslin, 1 yd. square. Take this and fold it over once, forming a double piece 1-1/2 ft. wide and 3 ft. long. Make a double stitch all around the edge, leaving a small opening at one corner. Insert a piece of tape at this corner to be used for tying around the opening when the bag is blown up. The bag is then turned inside out, soaked with water and blown up. An occasional wetting all over will prevent it from leaking. As these wings are very large they will prevent the swimmer from sinking. --Contributed by W. C. Bliss, St. Louis, Mo.
** How to Make an Ammeter [203]
The outside case of this instrument is made of wood taken from old cigar boxes with the exception of the back. If carefully and neatly made, the finished instrument will be very satisfactory. The measurements here given need not be strictly followed out, but can be governed by circumstances. The case should first be made and varnished and while this is drying, the mechanical parts can be put together.
[Illustration: Details of an Ammeter]
The back is a board 3/8 in. thick, 6-1/2 in. wide and 6-3/4 in. long. The outer edges of this board are chamfered. The other parts of the case are made from the cigar box wood which should be well sandpapered to remove the labels. The sides are 3-1/4 in. wide and 5 in. long; the top and bottom, 3-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/2 in. long. Glue a three cornered piece, A, Fig. 1, at each end on the surface that is to be the inside of the top and bottom pieces. After the glue, is set, fasten the sides to the pieces with glue, and take care that the pieces are all square. When the glue is set, this square box is well sandpapered, then centered, and fastened to the back with small screws turned into each three-cornered piece.
The front, which is a piece 5-1/4 in. wide and 6-1/2 in. long, has a circular opening cut near the top through which the graduated scale may be seen. This front is centered and fastened the same as the back, and the four outside edges, as well as the edges around the opening, are rounded. The whole case can now be cleaned and stained with a light mahogany stain and varnished. Cut another piece of board, B, Figs. 2 and 3, to just fit inside the case and rest on the ends of the three-cornered pieces, A, and glue to this board two smaller pieces, C, 3 in. square, with the grain of the wood in alternate directions to prevent warping. All of these pieces are made of the cigar box wood. Another piece, D, 3/8 in. thick and 3 in. square, is placed on the other pieces and a U-shaped opening 1-3/4 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. high sawed out from all of the pieces as shown. The piece D is attached to the pieces C with four 1/2-in. pieces 2-5/8 in. long.
A magnet is made from a soft piece of iron, E, about 3/8 in. thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 2-3/4 in. long. Solder across each end of the iron a piece of brass wire, F, and make a turn in each end of the wires, forming an eye for a screw. These wires are about 2-1/2 in. long. Wind three layers of about No. 14 double cotton-covered copper wire on the soft iron and leave about 5 or 6 in. of each end unwound for connections.
The pointer is made as shown in Fig. 5 from 1/16-in. brass wire filed to make a point at both ends for a spindle. About 1/2 in. from each end of this wire are soldered two smaller brass wires which in turn are soldered to a strip of light tin 1/4 in. wide and 2-5/8 in. long. The lower edge of this tin should be about 1/2 in. from the spindle. The pointer is soldered to the spindle 1/4 in. from one end. All of these parts should be brass with the exception of the strip of tin. Another strip of tin, the same size as the first, is soldered to two brass wires as shown in Fig. 4. These wires should be about 1 in. long.
The spindle of the pointer swings freely between two bars of brass, G, 1/16 in. thick, 1/4 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. long. A small hole is countersunk in one of the bars to receive one end of the spindle and a hole 1/8 in. in diameter is drilled in the other and a thumb nut taken from the binding-post of an old battery soldered over the hole so the screw will pass through when turned into the nut. The end of the screw is countersunk to receive the other end of the spindle. A lock nut is necessary to fasten the screw when proper adjustment is secured. A hole is drilled in both ends of the bars for screws to fasten them in place. The bar with the adjusting screw is fastened on the back so it can be readily adjusted through the hole H, bored in the back. The pointer is bent so it will pass through the U-shaped cut-out and up back of the board B. A brass pin is driven in the board B to hold the pointer from dropping down too far to the left. Place the tin, Fig. 4, so it will just clear the tin, Fig. 5, and fasten in place. The magnet is next placed with the ends of the coil to the back and the top just clearing the tin strips. Two binding screws are fitted to the bottom of the back and connected to the extending wires from the coil.
The instrument is now ready for calibrating. This is done by connecting it in series with another standard ammeter which has the scale marked in known quantities. In this series is also connected a variable resistance and a battery or some other source of current supply. The resistance is now adjusted to show .5 ampere on the standard ammeter and the position of the pointer marked on the scale. Change your resistance to all points and make the numbers until the entire scale is complete.
When the current flows through the coil, the two tinned strips of metal are magnetized, and being magnetized by the same lines of force they are both of the same polarity. Like poles repel each other, and as the part Fig. 4 is not movable, the part carrying the pointer moves away. The stronger the current, the greater the magnetism of the metal strips, and the farther apart they will be forced, showing a greater defection of the pointer. --Contributed by George Heimroth, Richmond Hill, L. I.
** How to Make an Equatorial [204] Condensed from article contributed by J. R. Chapman, F.R.A.S. Austwick Hall. W. Yorkshire. England
This star finder can easily be made by anyone who can use a few tools as the parts are all wood and the only lathe work necessary is the turned shoulder on the polar axis and this could be dressed and sandpapered true enough for the purpose. The base is a board 5 in. wide and 9 in. long which is fitted with an ordinary wood screw in each corner for leveling. Two side pieces cut with an angle equal to the colatitude of the place are nailed to the base and on top of them is fastened another board on which is marked the hour circle as shown. The end of the polar axis B, that has the end turned with a shoulder, is fitted in a hole bored in the center of the hour circle. The polar axis B is secured to the board with a wooden collar and a pin underneath. The upper end of the polar axis is fitted with a 1/4-in. board, C, 5-1/2 in. in diameter. A thin compass card divided into degrees is fitted on the edge of this disk for the declination circle.
The hour circle A is half of a similar card with the hour marks divided into 20 minutes. An index pointer is fastened to the base of the polar axis. A pointer 12 in. long is fastened with a small bolt to the center of the declination circle. A small opening is made in the pointer into which an ordinary needle is inserted. This needle is adjusted to the degree to set the pointer in declination and when set, the pointer is clamped with the bolt at the center. A brass tube having a 1/4-in. hole is fastened to the pointer.
The first thing to do is to get a true N and S meridian mark. This can be approximately obtained by a good compass, and allowance made for the magnetic declination at your own place. Secure a slab of stone or some other solid flat surface, level this and have it firmly fixed facing due south with a line drawn through the center and put the equatorial on the surface with XII on the south end of the line. Then set the pointer D to the declination of the object, say Venus at the date of observation. You now want to know if this planet is east or west of your meridian at the time of observation. The following formula will show how this may be found. To find a celestial object by equatorial: Find the planet Venus May 21, 1881, at 9 hr. 10 min. A. M. Subtract right ascension of planet from the time shown by the clock, thus:
hour minute second 9 hr. 10 min. shows mean siderial. 1 0 0 Add 12 hrs 12 --- --- --- 13
Right ascension of Venus 2 10 --- --- --- Set hour circle to before meridian 10 50 0 Again------------------ At 1 hr. 30 min. mean clock shows 5 20 0 Right ascension of Venus 2 10 0 --- --- --- Set hour circle to 3 10 0
Books may be found in libraries that will give the right ascension and declination of most of the heavenly bodies.
The foregoing tables assume that you have a clock rated to siderial time,
[Illustration: Home-Made Equatorial]
but this is not absolutely necessary. If you can obtain the planet's declination on the day of observation and ascertain when it is due south, all you have to do is to set the pointer D by the needle point and note whether Venus has passed your meridian or not and set your hour index. There will be no difficulty in picking up Venus even in bright sunlight when the plant is visible to the naked eye.
** Electric Light Turned On and Off from Different Places [205]
How nice it would be to have an electric light at the turn in a stairway, or at the top that could be turned on before starting up the stair and on reaching the top turned out, and vice
[Illustration: The Wiring Diagram]
versa when coming down. The wiring diagram as shown in the illustration will make this a pleasant reality. This wiring may be applied in numerous like instances. The electric globe may be located at any desired place and the two point switches are connected in series with the source of current as shown in the sketch. The light may be turned on or off at either one of the switches. --Contributed by Robert W. Hall, New Haven, Conn.
** How to Make a Bunsen Cell [206]
This kind of a cell produces a high e.m.f. owing to the low internal resistance. Procure a glass jar such as used for a gravity battery, or, if one of these cannot be had, get a glazed vessel of similar construction. Take a piece of sheet zinc large enough so that when it is rolled up in the shape of a cylinder it will clear the edge of the jar by about 1/2 in. Solder a wire or binding-post to the edge of the cylinder for a connection.
[Illustration: Cross Section and Completed Cell]
Secure a small unglazed vessel to fit inside of the zinc, or such a receptacle as used in a sal ammoniac cell, and fill it with a strong solution of nitric acid. Fill the outer jar with a solution of 16 parts water and 5 parts sulphuric acid. The connections are made from the zinc and carbon.
** Optical Illusion [206]
Can you tell which of these three figures is the tallest? Make a guess, and then verify its correctness by measurement.
[Illustration: Who is tallest?]
** One Way to Cook Fish [206]
One of the best and easiest ways of cooking fish while out camping is told by a correspondent of Forest and Stream. A fire is built the size for the amount of food to be cooked and the wood allowed to burn down to a glowing mass of coals and ashes. Wash and season your fish well and then wrap them up in clean, fresh grass, leaves or bark. Then, after scraping away the greater part of the coals, put the fish among the ashes, cover up with the same, and heap the glowing coals on top. The fish cooks quickly--15 or 20 minutes--according to their size.
If you eat fish or game cooked after this fashion you will agree that it cannot be beaten by any method known to camp culinary savants. Clay also answers the purpose of protecting. the fish or game from the fire if no other material is at hand, and for anything that requires more time for cooking it makes the best covering. Wet paper will answer, especially for cooking fish.
** Hardening Copper [206]
A successful method of hardening copper is to add 1 lb. of alum and 4 oz. arsenic to every 20 lb. of melted copper and stir for 10 minutes.
** Packing Cut from Felt Hats [206]
Felt from an old hat makes good packing for automobile water-circulating pumps. Strips should be cut to fit snugly in the stuffing box. When the follower is screwed down, it will expand the felt and make a watertight joint.
** Homemade Gasoline Engine [206]
The material used in the construction of the gasoline engine, as shown in the accompanying picture, was pieces found in a scrap pile that usually occupies a fence corner on almost every farm. The cylinder consists of
[Illustration: Complete Homemade Gasoline Engine]
an old pump cylinder, 3/8 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. inside diameter and about 5 in. long. This was fastened between some wooden blocks which were bolted on the tool carriage of a lathe and then bored out to a diameter of about 2 in. The boring bar, Fig. 1, consisted of an old shaft with a hole bored through the center and a tool inserted and held for each cut by a setscrew. A wood mandrel with a metal shaft to turn in the centers of a lathe was made to fit the bored-out cylinder. The cylinder was then placed on the mandrel, fastened with a pin, and threaded on both ends. Flanges were next made from couplings discarded from an old horsepower tumbling rod, to fit on the threaded ends of the cylinder casting. When these flanges were tightly screwed on the casting and faced off smooth the whole presented the appearance of a large spool.
The back cylinder head was made from a piece of cast iron, about 1/2 in. thick, turned to the same diameter as the flanges, and with a small projection to fit snugly inside the cylinder bore. Two holes were then drilled in this head and tapped for 3/4-in. pipe. Two pieces of 3/4 -in. pipe were fitted to these holes so that, when they were turned in, a small part of the end of each pipe projected on the inside of the cylinder head. These pieces of pipe serve as valve cages and are reamed out on the inside ends to form a valve seat. The outlet for the exhaust and the inlet for the gas and air are through holes drilled in the side of each pipe respectively and tapped for 1/2-in. pipe. Two heads were then made to fit over the outer ends of the valve cages. These heads looked similar to a thread spool with one flange cut off, the remaining flange fitting on the
[Illustration: Steps in Making the Home-Made Gasoline Engine]
end of the valve cage and the center extending down inside to make a long guide for the valve stems. These heads are held in place by a wrought-iron plate and two bolts, one of which is plainly shown in the picture. This plate also supports the rocker arms, Fig. 2, and the guides for the rods that operate the valves. Both valves are mechanically operated by one cam attached to a shaft running one turn to two of the crankshaft. The gears to run this shaft were cut from solid pieces on a small home-made gear-cutting attachment for the lathe as shown in Fig. 3. The gear on the crankshaft has 20 teeth meshing into a 40-tooth gear on the cam shaft.
The main part of the frame consists of a piece of 1/2-in. square iron, 30 in. long, bent in the shape of a U, and on the outside of this piece is riveted a bent piece of sheet metal 1/8 in. thick and 3 in. wide. The U-shaped iron is placed near one edge of the sheet metal. Two pieces of 2-1/2-in. angle iron are riveted vertically on the ends of the U-shaped iron and a plate riveted on them to close the open end and to form a face on which to attach the cylinder with bolts or cap screws. A hole was cut through the angle irons and plate the same size as the bore of the cylinder so the piston could be taken out without removing the cylinder. A 1-in. angle iron was riveted to one side of the finished frame to make a support for the crankshaft bearing. The rough frame, Fig. 4, was then finished on an emery wheel. This long frame had to be made to accommodate the crosshead which was necessary for such a short cylinder.
The piston and rod were screwed together and turned in one operation on a lathe. The three rings were made from an old cast-iron pulley. The cap screws were made from steel pump rods. A piece of this rod was centered in a lathe and turned so as to shape six or more screws, Fig. 5, then removed and the first one threaded and cut off, then the second and so on until all of them were made into screws. The rod was held in a vise for this last operation. Studs were made by threading both ends of a proper length rod. Make-and-break ignition is used on the engine; however, a jump spark would be much better. The flywheel and mixing valve were purchased from a house dealing in these parts. The water jacket on the cylinder is a sheet of copper formed and soldered in place, and brass bands put on to co v e r the soldered joints. --Contributed by Peter Johnson, Clermont, Iowa.
** Dripping Carburetor [208]
If gasoline drips from the carburetor when the engine is not running, the needle valve connected with the float should be investigated. If the dripping stops when the valve is pressed down, the float is too high. If the valve keeps dripping, then it should be ground to a fit.
** A Merry-Go-Round Thriller [209]
[Illustration: Swinging on the Merry-Go-Round]
As a home mechanic with a fondness for amusing the children I have seen many descriptions of merry-go-rounds, but never one which required so little material, labor and time, and which gave such satisfactory results, as the one illustrated herewith. It was erected in our back yard one afternoon, the materials being furnished by an accommodating lumber pile, and a little junk, and it has provided unlimited pleasure for "joy-riders," little and big, from all over the neighborhood. It looks like a toy, but once seat yourself in it and begin to go around, and, no matter what your age or size may be, you will have in a minute enough thrill and excitement to last the balance of the day.
The illustration largely explains itself, but a few dimensions will be a help to anyone wishing to construct the apparatus. The upright is a 4 by 4-in. timber, set 3 ft. in the ground with 8 ft. extending above. It is braced on four sides with pieces 2 in. square and 2 ft. long, butting against short stakes. The upper end of the post is wound with a few rounds of wire or an iron strap to prevent splitting. The crosspiece is 2 in. square, 12 ft. long, strengthened by a piece 4 in. square and 5 ft. long. These two pieces must be securely bolted or spiked together. A malleable iron bolt, 3/4 in. in diameter and 15 in. long is the pivot. On this depends the safety of the contrivance, so it must be strong enough, and long enough to keep firmly in the post. Drive this bolt in a 3/8-in. hole bored in the post, which will make it a sufficiently tight fit. Make the hole for the bolt very loose through the crosspiece, so that there will be plenty of "wobble," as this is one of the mirth-making features of the machine. Use a heavy washer at the head. The seats are regular swing boards, supported by a stout and serviceable rope. A 3/4 -in. rope is not too heavy. One set of ropes are passed through holes at the end of the crosspiece and knotted on top. The other set should be provided with loops at the top and slid over the crosspiece, being held in position by spikes as shown. This makes an easy adjustment. Seat the heavier of the riders on the latter seat, moving it toward the center until a balance with the lighter rider is reached. A rope tied to the crosspiece about 2 ft. from the center, for the "motive power" to grasp, completes the merry-go-round.
Put plenty of soap or grease between the crosspiece and upright. Be sure to have room for the ropes to swing out at high speed, with no trees or buildings in the way. The "wobble" mentioned will give an agreeable undulating motion, which adds greatly to the flying sensation. This will be found surprisingly evident for so small a machine. As there is no bracing, care must be taken to have the two riders sit at the same moment, or the iron bolt will be bent out of line. If it is to be used for adults, strong clear material only should be employed. --Contributed by C. W. Nieman.
** How to Make and Fly a Chinese Kite [210]
The Chinese boy is not satisfied with simply holding the end of a kite string and running up and down the block or field trying to raise a heavy paper kite with a half pound of rags for a tail. He makes a kite as light as possible without any tail which has the peculiar property of being able to move in every direction. Sometimes an expert can make one of these kites travel across the wind for several hundred feet; in fact, I have seen boys a full block apart bring their kites together and engage
[Illustration: Parts of a Chinese Kite]
in a combat until one of their kites floated away with a broken string, or was punctured by the swift dives of the other, and sent to earth, a wreck.
The Chinese boy makes his kite as follows:
From a sheet of thin but tough tissue paper about 20 in. square, which he folds and cuts along the dotted line, as shown in Fig. 1, he gets a perfectly square kite having all the properties of a good flyer, light and strong. He shapes two pieces of bamboo, one for the backbone and one for the bow. The backbone is flat, 1/4 by 3/32 in. and 18 in. long. This he smears along one side with common boiled rice. Boiled rice is one of the best adhesives for use on paper that can be obtained and the Chinese have used it for centuries while we are just waking up to the fact that it makes fine photo paste. Having placed the backbone in position, paste two triangular pieces of paper over the ends of the stick to prevent tearing. The bow is now bent, and the lugs extending from the sides of the square paper are bent over the ends of the bow and pasted down. If the rice is quite dry or mealy it can be smeared on and will dry almost immediately, therefore no strings are needed to hold the bow bent while the paste dries.
After the sticks are in position the kite will appear as shown in Fig. 2. The dotted lines show the lugs bent over the ends of the bow and pasted down. Figure 3 shows how the band is put on and how the kite is balanced. This is the most important part and cannot be explained very well. This must be done by experimenting and it is enough to say that the kite must balance perfectly. The string is fastened by a slip-knot to the band and moved back and forth until the kite flies properly, then it is securely fastened.
A reel is next made. Two ends--the bottoms of two small peach baskets will do--are fastened to a dowel stick or broom handle, if nothing better is at hand. These ends are placed about 14 in. apart and strips nailed between them as shown in Fig. 4, and the centers drawn in and bound with a string. The kite string used is generally a heavy packing thread. This is run through a thin flour or rice paste until it is thoroughly coated, then it is run through a quantity of crushed glass. The glass should be beaten up fine and run through a fine sieve to make it about the same as No.2 emery. The particles should be extremely sharp and full of splinters. These particles adhere to the pasted string and when dry are so sharp that it cannot be handled without scratching- the fingers, therefore the kite is flown entirely from the reel. To wind the string upon the reel, all that is necessary is to lay one end of the reel stick in the bend of the left arm and twirl the other end between the fingers of the right hand.
A Chinese boy will be flying a gaily colored little kite from the roof of a house (if it be in one of the large cities where they have flat-roofed houses) and a second boy will appear on the roof of another house perhaps 200 ft. away. Both have large reels full of string, often several hundred yards of it. The first hundred feet or so is glass-covered string, the balance, common packing thread, or glass-covered string. As soon as the second boy has his kite aloft, he begins maneuvering to drive it across the wind and over to the first kite. First, he pays out a large amount of string, then as the kite wobbles to one side with its nose pointing toward the first kite, he tightens his line and commences a steady quick pull. If properly done his kite crosses over to the other and above it. The string is now payed out until the second kite is hanging over the first one's line. The wind now tends to take the second kite back to its parallel and in so doing makes a turn about the first kite's string. If the second kite is close enough, the first tries to spear him by swift dives. The second boy in the meantime is see-sawing his string and presently the first kite's string is cut and it drifts away.
It is not considered sport to haul the other fellow's kite down as might be done and therefore a very interesting battle is often witnessed when the experts clash their kites. --Contributed by S. C. Bunker, Brooklyn, N. Y.
** Home-Made Vise [211]
An ordinary monkey wrench that has been discarded is used in making this vise. The wrench is supported by two L-shaped pieces of iron fastened with
[Illustration: A Swivel Bench Vise]
a rivet through the end jaw, and these in turn are bolted or screwed to the bench. The handle end is held down with a staple. The inside jaw is used in clamping and is operated with the thumb screw of the wrench. Two holes bored through the thumb piece will greatly facilitate setting up the jaws tightly by using a small rod in the holes as a lever.
The vise may be made into a swing vise if the wrench is mounted on a board which is swung on a bolt at one end and held with a pin at the other as shown in the illustration. Various holes bored in the bench on an arc will permit the board to be set at any angle. --Contributed by Harry S. Moody, Newburyport. Mass.
** Home-Made Changing Bag for Plate Holders [212]
A good bag for changing plates and loading plate holders and one that the operator can see well to work in can
[Illustration: Made of Black Cambric]
be made by anyone on a sewing machine. Ten yards of black cambric or other black cloth and a little ruby fabric will be required. Take the cambric and fold it into 2-yd. lengths (Fig. 1) which will make five layers of cloth, tack or fasten the layers together so they will not slip and cut an 8-in. square hole in the middle of one half (Fig. 2) and sew the ruby fabric over the opening. Be sure and make the seam light-tight and have enough layers of ruby fabric so no white light can get in. Fold the cloth up so it will be 1 yd. square (Fig. 3) and sew up the edges to make a bag with one side open. Put a drawstring in the edge of the cloth around the open side and the bag is complete ready for use.
Take the holders and plate boxes in the lap and put the bag over the head and down around the body, then draw the string up tight. A bag made up in this manner is for use only for a short time. If it is necessary to do considerable work at a time, then a dust protector, such as mill men use, must be attached to a 3-ft. length of 2-in. rubber hose and the hose run through a hole in the bag. This will make it possible to work in the bag as long as you wish. --Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt.
** Home-Made Asbestos Table Pads [212]
Asbestos table pads to prevent the marring of polished table tops from heated dishes can be easily made at home much cheaper than they can be bought. Procure a sheet of asbestos from a plumbing shop and cut it in the shape of the top of your table. If the table is round, make the pad as shown in the illustration, cutting the circular piece into quarters. Cut four pieces of canton flannel. each the size of half the table top. Two of the asbestos pieces are used to make one-half of the pad. Place the two pieces with their edges together so they will form half a circle disk and cover both sides with a piece of the flannel and pin them in place. A binding of white cotton tape is then basted around the edges to hold all the pieces together until they are stitched on a sewing machine. A line of machine stitching is made all around the outside and through the middle
[Illustration: Pads Made of Asbestos]
between where the edges of the asbestos sheets join together. This will form a hinge so the two quarters may be folded for putting away. Make the other half circular disk in the same way. If leaves are wanted in extending the table, any number of pads can be made to cover them in the same manner with the hinge in the middle of each pad. The flannel is used with the nap side out so it will make the pad soft and noiseless. This kind of a pad furnishes perfect protection to the table from any heat or moisture. --Contributed by H. E. Wharton, Oakland, Calif.
** How to Make a Ladies' Handbag [213]
To make this bag, get a piece of Russian calf modeling leather. A shade of brown is the best as it does not soil easily and does not require coloring, which spoils the leather effect.
The dimensions of the full sized bag are: from A to B, 17-1/2 in.; from C to D, 16-1/4 in.; from E to F,9-1/4 in.; G to H, 6-1/4 in., and E to G, 2-1/4 in.
Enlarge the accompanying pattern to the given dimensions, trace this or some other appropriate design on it, and then cut the leather the size of the pattern.
Use a sponge to dampen the leather on the rough side, not so damp that the water will come through to the right side when working, but damp enough to allow the design to be well impressed
[Illustration: Pattern]
on the leather. Use a smooth, non-absorbent surface to lay the leather on while at work.
Now lay the pattern on the right side of the leather and with the smallest end of the leather tool or a sharp, hard pencil, trace the design carefully on the leather. Moisten the leather as
[Illustration: Design on the Leather]
often as necessary to keep it sufficiently moist to work well. Trace the openings for the handles, also lines A-G, H-B, and E-G, G-J, and corresponding lines on the other side.
Remove pattern and trace the design directly on leather with the round point of tool, until it is made distinct and in marked contrast to the rest of the leather. Do not make sharp marks but round the edges of the lines nicely, with the rounded sides of the tools.
To complete the bag, get something with which to make a lining. A piece of oozed leather is the most satisfactory. Cut it the same size as the bag, place both together and with a leather punch, make holes all around the edge of the bag about 1/8 in. apart. Cut out the leather for the handle openings. Care should be taken not to cut the holes too near the edge of the bag lest the lacing pull out. Now cut narrow thongs, about 1/8 in. wide, and lace through the holes, lacing the sides of the end pieces in with the sides of the bag. Crease the lines A-G and B-H inward for ends of bag.
** Removing Wire Insulation [213]
The claw of a hammer can be used for removing the insulation on copper wire, if not more than 1 in. is taken off at a time.
** A Small Electric Motor [214]
The drawing herewith shows a simple electric motor which can be easily constructed by any boy who is at all handy with tools. I made this motor
[Illustration: Electro-Magnet Motor]
many times when a boy and can say that if carefully constructed it will run with greater rapidity than the more expensive ones.
A common magnet which can be purchased at any toy store is used. The one shown is 3-1/2 in. in length. The armature core is a strip of 1/16 by 1/4-in. iron, 2-1/4 in. long, bent U-shaped and fastened to the wood flywheel. Each leg of the armature is wound with 10 ft. of No. 24 gauge magnet wire. The commutator is made from an old 22 cartridge filed into two equal parts, each being a half circle, both of which are made fast to a collar on the shaft E. Each half of the commutator must be insulated from the other half. The collar can be made by wrapping paper around the shaft until the required size is obtained.
The top end of the shaft runs in a hole bored in a brass support, B, which is screwed on the end of a piece of wood mortised in the base, as shown in Fig. 1. The lower end of the shaft runs in a glass bead, D, which is fastened to a small piece of brass with sealing wax. The small brass piece is fastened to the base with screws. The bead should not have an eye larger in diameter than the shaft. The shaft is made from an old discarded knitting needle. The brushes are fastened to each side of the upright piece of wood supporting the brass bearing B.
The connections to the battery are shown in Fig. 2. Each half of the commutator C is connected to the coils AA as shown in Fig. 1. --Contributed by J.M. Shannon, Pasadena, Calif.
** Moving a Coin Under a Glass [214]
Place a penny or a dime on a tablecloth, towel or napkin and cover it over with a glass in such a way that the glass will rest upon two 25 or 50 cent pieces as shown in the sketch. The coin is made to come forth without touching it or sliding a stick under the edge of the glass. It is only necessary to claw the cloth near the glass with the nail of the forefinger.
[Illustration: Removing the Coin]
The cloth will produce a movement that will slide the coin to the edge and from under the glass.
** Improving Phonograph Sound [214]
When playing loud and harsh records on a phonograph the music is often spoiled by the vibration of the metal horn. This may be remedied by buckling a valise or shawl strap around the horn, near the center.
** How to Make Paper Balloons [215]
Balloons made spherical, or designed after the regular aeronaut's hot-air balloon, are the best kind to make. Those having an odd or unusual shape will not make good ascensions, and in most
[Illustration: Paper Balloon; Pattern and Parts to Make Balloon]
cases the paper will catch fire from the torch and burn before they have flown very far. The following description is for making a tissue-paper balloon about 6 ft. high.
The paper may be selected in several colors, and the gores cut from these, pasted "in alternately, will produce a pretty array of colors when the balloon is in flight. The shape of a good balloon is shown in Fig. 1. The gores for a 6-ft. balloon should be about 8 ft. long or about one-third longer than the height of the balloon. The widest part of each gore is 16 in. The widest place should be 53-1/2 in. from the bottom end, or a little over half way from the bottom to the top. The bottom of the gore is one-third the width of the widest point. The dimensions and shape of each gore are shown in Fig. 2.
The balloon is made up of 13 gores pasted together, using about 1/2-in. lap on the edges. Any good paste will do--one that is made up of flour and water well cooked will serve the purpose. If the gores have been put together right, the pointed ends will close up the top entirely and the wider bottom ends will leave an opening about 20 in. in diameter. A light wood hoop having the same diameter as the opening is pasted to the bottom end of the gores. Two cross wires are fastened to the hoop, as shown in Fig. 3. These are to hold the wick ball, Fig. 4, so it will hang as shown in Fig. 5. The wick ball is made by winding wicking around a wire, having the ends bent into hooks as shown.
The balloon is filled with hot air in a manner similar to that used with the ordinary cloth balloon. A small trench or fireplace is made of brick having a chimney over which the mouth of the paper balloon is placed. Use fuel that will make heat with very little smoke. Hold the balloon so it will not catch fire from the flames coming out of the chimney. Have some alcohol ready to pour on the wick ball, saturating it thoroughly. When the balloon is well filled carry it away from the fireplace, attach the wick ball to the cross wires and light it.
In starting the balloon on its flight, take care that it leaves the ground as nearly upright as possible. --Contributed by R. E. Staunton.
** A Simple Steamboat Model [216]
The small boat shown in the accompanying sketch may have a length of 12 to 18 in. and is constructed in the
[Illustration: Sectional View and Completed Boat]
following manner: A small steam boiler, A, is supported by two braces over an alcohol lamp in the middle of the boat. A small pipe is fastened to the top of the boiler in such a way that the open end will be opposite the open end of another pipe, B, somewhat larger in size. The pipe B opens into the stern of the boat at C, as shown in Fig. 1. The steam, coming through the small pipe A, is driven forcibly through the larger pipe B, and carries with it a certain amount of air out through the opening C into the water. As the boat is driven forward by this force, the steam arises to the surface in the form of bubbles. The boat soon attains considerable speed, leaving a long wake behind.
** To Remove Grease from Machinery [216]
A good way to remove grease or oil from machinery before painting is to brush slaked lime and water over the surface, leaving the solution on over night. After washing, the iron is dried and the paint will stick to it readily. In removing grease from wood, common whitewash may be left on for a few hours and then washed off with warm water, after which the paint will adhere permanently.
** A Game Played on the Ice [216]
Two lines are drawn parallel on the ice from 50 to 100 ft. apart and blocks of wood are placed every 6 ft. apart on these lines. The player opening the game skates to the line and delivers, in bowling form, a sliding block similar to the blocks that are placed on the lines with the exception that it has a handle. The blocks are about 6 in. wide by 6 in. high and 8 in. long. The sliding blocks should be at least 1 ft. long and each provided with a handle. The handle is attached by boring a hole near one end in the middle of the block and driving in a wood pin. The hole is bored slanting so as to incline the handle. Two of these blocks are provided for the reason that when a player bowls one of the opposing player's blocks over the line he is entitled to another throw. The side wins that bowls over all of the opposing
[Illustration: Bowling Over the Opponent's Blocks]
players' blocks first. This will prove an interesting and enjoyable pastime for skaters.
** Making Photo Silhouette Brass Plaques [217]
Secure a brass plate having a smooth surface the right size for the photograph and cover it with a coat of paraffin. This is done by heating the paraffin in a vessel hot enough to make the wax run freely, then pouring the liquid over the entire surface of the brass.
When the paraffin has cooled sufficiently the outlines of the photograph must be drawn upon its surface. There are three ways of doing this: First, the photograph can be traced on tissue paper and then retraced on the paraffin surface. The exact outlines of the photograph can be obtained this way without destroying the print. Second, if you have several copies of the photograph, one can be utilized by tracing direct to the surface of the paraffin. In using either of the two methods described, carbon paper must be placed on the paraffin before the tissue paper or photograph is laid upon it. Third, cut out the outlines of the photograph and lay it on the paraffin surface, then trace around the edges with the point of a needle or sharp point of a knife. The outlines drawn by the first method are cut through the paraffin in the same way. The paraffin is carefully removed from the inside of the lines, leaving the brass surface perfectly clean, as is shown in Fig. 1.
The exposed part of the plate is now ready to be etched or eaten away to the right depth with acid. The acid solution is made up of 1-1/2 parts muriatic acid and 2 parts water. The mixture should be placed in a glass or earthenware
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Waxed Brass Plate]
vessel. If the plate is a small one a saucer will do for the acid solution. Pour the acid on the plate where the paraffin has been removed and allow it time to etch. The acid should be removed every five minutes to examine the etching. If any places show up where the paraffin has not been entirely removed they must be cleaned so the acid will eat out the metal. When the acid solution becomes weak new solution must be added until the proper depth is secured. Rinse the plate in cold water, stand in a tray and heat it sufficiently to run off all the paraffin. Polish the plate by rubbing it with a piece of flannel.
The plaque can be given a real antique finish by painting the etched part with a dull black paint. Drill a small hole in each of the four corners, being careful not to dent the metal. The plaque is backed with a piece of wood 3/4 in. thick, the dimensions of which should exceed those of the brass plate sufficiently to harmonize with the size of the plaque. The wood should be painted black with the same paint used in the plaque. Paint the heads of four thumb tacks black and use them in fastening the plaque to the board. The finished silhouette will appear as shown in Fig. 2. --Contributed by John A. Hellwig, Albany, N. Y.
[Illustration: Fig. 2 Finished Plaque]
** Aligning Automobile Headlights [217]
Automobile headlights should be set to throw the light straight ahead, not pointed down at the road at an angle.
** Telescope Stand and Holder [218]
With the ordinary small telescope it is very difficult to keep the line of sight fixed upon any particular object. To meet the situation I constructed the
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Made of a Camera Tripod]
device illustrated herewith. A circular piece of wood, B, 6 in. in diameter, is fastened to a common camera tripod, A, with a set screw, S. Corner irons, CC, are screwed to the circular piece. These corner irons are also screwed to, and supported in a vertical position by the wood standard D, which is 4 in. wide and of any desired height. To this standard is secured the wood shield-shaped piece E by the screw G upon which it turns. A semi-circular slit is cut in the piece G, through which passes the set screw S. The telescope is secured to the piece G by means of the pipe straps FF. Rubber bands are put around the telescope to prevent rubbing at the places where the straps enclose it.
The wood pieces were made of mahogany well rubbed with linseed oil to give them a finish. The corner irons and set screws or bolts with thumb-nuts can be purchased at any hardware store. The pipe straps of different sizes can be obtained from a plumber's or gas and steam fitter's store. With this device, either a vertical or a horizontal motion may be secured, and, after bringing the desired object into the line of sight, the set screws will hold the telescope in position. Anyone owning a tripod can construct this device in three or four hours' time at a trifling cost. In Fig. 1 is shown the side view of the holder and stand, and Fig. 2 the front view.
It may be of interest to those owning telescopes without solar eyepieces to know that such an eyepiece can be obtained very cheaply by purchasing a pair of colored eyeglasses with very dark lenses and metal rims. Break off the frame, leaving the metal rims and nibs at each end. Place these over the eyepiece of the telescope and secure in place with rubber bands looped over the nibs and around the barrel of the instrument. --Contributed by R. A. Paine, Richmond, Va.
** How to Make an Electrical Horn [218]
Secure an empty syrup or fruit can, any kind having a smooth flat bottom will do. If the bottom is not perfectly flat, it will interfere with the regular tone vibrations, and not produce the right sound. Remove the label by soaking it in hot water. Take an ordinary electrical bell and remove the gong, clip off the striking ball and bend the rod at right angles. Cut a block of wood 3/4 in. thick, 5 in. wide and 8 in. long for the base. Fasten the can on it with a piece of sheet brass or
[Illustration: Tin Can and Bell Parts]
tin as shown in the sketch. Mount the bell vibrator on the base, using a small block of wood to elevate it to the level of the center of the can, and solder the end of the vibrator rod to the metal.
Connect two dry cells to the bell vibrator, and adjust the contact screw until a clear tone is obtained. The rapidly moving armature of the bell vibrator causes the bottom of the can to vibrate with it, thus producing sound waves. The pitch of the tone depends on the thickness of the bottom of the can. This horn, if carefully adjusted and using two cells of dry battery, will give a soft pleasant tone that can be heard a block away. If the two projecting parts of the vibrator are sawed off with a hacksaw, it can be mounted on the inside of the can. This will make a very compact electric horn, as only the can is visible. --Contributed by John Sidelmier, La Salle, Ill.
** Driving a Washing Machine with Motorcycle Power [219]
The halftone illustration shows how 1 rigged up my washing machine to be driven by the power from my motorcycle. I made a wheel 26 in. in diameter of some 1-in. pine boards, shrunk an iron band on it for a tire, and bolted it to the wheel on the washing machine. A long belt the same width as the motorcycle belt was used to drive the machine. The motorcycle was lined up and the engine started, then the motorcycle belt thrown off and the long belt run on, connecting the engine and washing machine wheel. -1. R. Kidder, Lake Preston, S. D.
[Illustration: Machine Belted to the Motorcycle]
** Home-Made Aquarium [219]
A good aquarium can be made from a large-sized street lamp globe and a yellow pine block. Usually a lamp globe costs less than an aquarium globe of the same dimensions. Procure a yellow pine block 3 in. thick and 12 in. square. The more uneven and twisted the grain the better for the purpose,
[Illustration: Lamp Globe as an Aquarium]
it is then less liable to develop a continuous crack.
Cut out a depression for the base of the globe as shown in Fig. 1. Pour in aquarium cement and embed the globe in it. Pour more cement inside of the globe until the cement is level with the top of the block. Finish with a ring of cement around the outside and sprinkle with fine sand while the cement is damp. Feet may be added to the base if desired. The weight of the pine block makes a very solid and substantial base for the globe and renders it less liable to be upset. --Contributed by James R. Kane, Doylestown, Pa
** Protect Your Lathe [219]
Never allow lard oil to harden on a lathe.
** Frame for Displaying Both Sides of Coins [220]
It is quite important for coin collectors to have some convenient way to
[Illustration: Holding Coins between Glasses]
show both sides of coins without touching or handling them. If the collection consists of only a few coins, they can be arranged in a frame as shown in Fig. 1. The frame is made of a heavy card, A, Fig. 2, the same thickness as the coins, and covered over on each side with a piece of glass, B. Holes are cut in the card to receive the coins C. The frame is placed on bearings so it may be turned over to examine both sides. If there is a large collection of coins, the frame can be made in the same manner and used as drawers in a cabinet. The drawers can be taken out and turned over. --Contributed by C. Purdy, Ghent, O.
** How to Make Lantern Slides [220]
A great many persons who have magic lanterns do not use them very much, for after the slides have been shown a few times, they become uninteresting, and buying new ones or even making them from photographic negatives is expensive. But by the method described in the following paragraph anyone can make new and interesting slides in a few minutes' time and at a very small cost.
Secure a number of glass plates of the size that will fit your lantern and clean them on both sides. Dissolve a piece of white rosin in a half-pint of gasoline and flow it over one side of the plates and allow to dry. Place the dried plate over a picture you wish to reproduce and draw the outline upon the thin film. A lead pencil, pen and ink or colored crayons can be used, as the rosin and gasoline give a surface that can be written upon as easily as upon paper. When the slide becomes uninteresting it can be cleaned with a little clear gasoline and used again to make another slide. A slide can be made in this way in five minutes and an interesting outline picture in even less time than that.
This solution also makes an ideal retouching varnish for negatives. --Contributed by J.E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.
** How to Make a Developing Box [220]
A box for developing 3-1/4 by 4-1/4 -in. plates is shown in detail in the accompanying sketch. It is made of strips of wood 1/4-in. thick, cut and grooved, and then glued together as indicated. If desired, a heavier piece can be placed on the bottom. Coat the inside of the box with paraffin or wax, melted and applied with a brush. Allow it to fill all crevices so that the developing box will be watertight. It will hold 4 oz. of developer. Boxes for larger plates
[Illustration: Details of the Developing Box]
can be made in the same manner. Use a small wooden clip in taking the plates out of the box, being careful not to scratch the sensitive film. --Contributed by R.J. Smith, Milwaukee, Wis.
** Staining Wood [221]
A very good method of staining close-grained woods is to use muriatic acid. The acid is put on with a brush like any ordinary stain. The colors thus obtained are artistic and most beautiful, and cannot be duplicated by any known pigment. The more coats applied the darker the color will be. This method of staining has the advantage of requiring no wiping or rubbing. --Contributed by August T. Neyer, One Cloud, Cal.
** Sheet-Metal Whisk-Broom Holder [221]
A whisk-broom holder such as is shown in the accompanying picture may be easily made by the amateur. The tools needed are few: a pair of tin shears, a metal block of some kind upon which to pound when riveting, a hammer or mallet, several large nails, and a stout board upon which to work up the design. A rivet punch is desirable, though not absolutely necessary.
The material required is a sheet of No. 24 gauge copper or brass of a size equal to that of the proposed holder, plus a 3/8-in. border all around, into which to place the screws that are to be used to hold the metal to the board while pounding it. The design shown in the picture is 6 by 8 in. at the widest part and has proven a satisfactory holder for a small broom.
Carefully work out the design desired on a piece of drawing paper, both outline and decoration, avoiding sharp curves in the outline because they are hard to follow with the shears when cutting the metal. If the design is to be of two-part symmetry, like the one shown, draw one part, then fold on a center line and duplicate this by inserting double-surfaced carbon paper and tracing the part already drawn. With this same carbon paper transfer the design to the metal. Fasten the metal to the board firmly, using 1/2-in. screws placed about 1 in. apart in holes previously punched in the margin with a nail set or nail.
To flatten the metal preparatory to fastening it to the board, place a block of wood upon it and pound on this block, never upon the metal directly,
[Illustration: Completed Holder Brass Fastened to Board-Method of Riveting]
or the surface will be dented and look bad in the finished piece.
Take the nail, a 10 or 20-penny wire or cut, and file it to a chisel edge, rounding it just enough to take the sharpness off so that it will not cut the metal. This tool is used for indenting the metal so as to bring out the outline of the design on the surface.
There are several ways of working up the design. The simplest way is to take the nail and merely "chase" the outlines of holder design. Remove the screws, cut off the surplus metal and file the edges until they are smooth. Make a paper pattern for the metal band that is to hold the broom. Trace around this pattern on the metal and cut out the shape. Punch rivet holes in holder and band, also a hole by which to hang the whole upon the wall.
Rivet the band to the holder. Punch the rivet holes with a nail set and make the holes considerably larger than the diameter of the rivet, for in flattening the raised edges the holes will close. Do the riveting on a metal block and keep the head of the rivet on the back of the holder. Round up the "upset" end of the riveted part as shown in the picture. Do not bend it over or flatten it. This rounding is done by pounding around the outer edge of the rivet end and not flat upon the top as in driving a nail.
Clean the metal by scrubbing it off with a solution composed of one-half water and one-half nitric acid. Use a rag tied to a stick and do not allow the acid to touch either your hands or clothes. A metal lacquer may next be applied to keep the metal from early corrosion.
** How to Make a Camp Stool [222]
The stool, as shown in Fig. 1, is made of beech or any suitable wood
[Illustration: Camp Stool Details]
with a canvas or carpet top. Provide four lengths for the legs, each 1 in. square and 18-1/2 in. long; two lengths, l-1/8 in. square and 11 in. long, for the top, and two lengths, 3/4 in. square, one 8-1/2 and the other 10-1/2 in. long, for the lower rails.
The legs are shaped at the ends to fit into a 5/8-in. hole bored in the top pieces as shown in Fig. 2, the distance between the centers of the holes being 7-5/8 in. in one piece and 9-5/8 in. in the other. The lower rails are fitted in the same way, using a 1/2-in. hole bored into each leg 2-1/2 in. up from the lower end.
Each pair of legs has a joint for folding and this joint is made by boring a hole in the middle of each leg, inserting a bolt and riveting it over washers with a washer placed between the legs as shown in Fig. 3. The entire length of each part is rounded off for the sake of neatness as well as lightness.
About 1/2 yd. of 11-in. wide material will be required for the seat and each end of this is nailed securely on the under side of the top pieces. The woodwork may be stained and varnished or plain varnished and the cloth may be made to have a pleasing effect by stencilling in some neat pattern.
** A Small Home-Made Electric Motor [222]
The accompanying photographs show the construction of a very unique electric motor, the parts consisting of the frame from an old bicycle pedal wrapped with insulated wire to make the armature and three permanent magnets taken from an old telephone magneto. The pedal, being ball bearing, rotated with very little friction and at a surprisingly high rate of speed.
[Illustration: The Motor Complete]
The dust cap on the end of the pedal was removed and a battery connection, having quite a length of threads, was soldered to it as shown in the photograph. The flanges were removed from an ordinary spool and two strips of brass fastened on its circumference for the commutator. The spool was held in position by a small binding
[Illustration: Commutator Parts]
post nut. The shape of this nut made a good pulley for a cord belt. --Contributed by John Shahan, Attalla, Ala.
** Rocker Blocks on Coaster Sleds [223]
The accompanying sketch shows a coasting sled with rocker blocks attached on both front and rear runners. The runners and the other parts of the sled are made in the usual way, but instead of fastening the rear runners solid to the top board and the front runners to turn on a solid plane fifth wheel, they are pivoted so each pair of runners will rock when going over bumps.
The illustration will explain this construction without going into detail and giving dimensions for a certain size, as these rocker blocks can be attached to any coaster or toboggan sled. It will be noticed that the top board may bend as much as it will under the load without causing the front ends of the rear runners and the
[Illustration: Coaster Sled with Rocker Runners]
rear ends of the front runners gouging into the snow or ice. --Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York City.
** How to Make a Watch Fob [223]
[Illustration: Watch Fob]
This novelty watch fob is made from felt, using class, college or lodge colors combined in the making with emblems or initials colored on the texture. Two pieces of felt, each 1-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/4 in. long, are cut V-shaped on one end of each piece about 1 in. in depth, and 3/8 in. in from the other end of one piece cut a slit 1/2 in. long; the end of the other piece is folded over, making a lap of about 1 in., and a slit is cut through the double thickness to match the one cut in the first piece. The desired emblem, initial, or pennant is stenciled on the outside of the folded piece with class, college or lodge colors. The strap is made from a strip of felt 3/16 in. wide and 8-1/4 in. long; stitched on both edges for appearance. Make a hole with a punch 1-1/4 in. from one end, and two holes in the other, one about 1 in. and the other 2-3/4 in. from the end. Purchase a 1/2-in. buckle from a harness maker and you will have all the parts necessary for the fob. Assemble as shown in the sketch. The end of the strap having the two holes is put through the slots cut in the wide pieces and the tongue of the buckle is run through both holes. The other end is passed through the ring of the watch and fastened in the buckle as in an ordinary belt. --Contributed by C. D. Luther. Ironwood. Mich.
** Drill Lubricant [223]
A good lubricant for drilling is made by dissolving 3/4 to 1 lb. of sal-soda in one pailful of water.
** New Way to Remove a Bottle Stopper [224]
Take a bottle of liquid, something that is carbonated, and with the aid of a napkin form a pad which is applied
[Illustration: Removing the Stopper]
to the lower end of the bottle. Strike hard with repeated blows against the solid surface of a wall, as shown in the sketch, and the cork will be driven out, sometimes with so much force that a part of the liquid comes with it and deluges the spectators, if desired by the operator.
** Imitation Fancy Wings on Hinges [224]
The accompanying sketch shows how I overcame the hardware troubles when I was not able to find ready-made hinges in antique design for a mission sideboard and buffet. This method allows a wide range of designs, which
[Illustration: Fancy Hinge Wings]
can be made at home with ordinary tools. The wings are made of copper or brass and finished in repoussé, or can be tarnished and the high places burnished with 000 sandpaper or steel wool, then lacquered with white shellac or banana bronzing liquid. --Contributed by John H. Schatz, Indianapolis, Ind.
** How to Make a Child's Rolling Toy [224]
Secure a tin can, or a pasteboard box, about 2 in. in diameter and 2 in. or more in height. Punch two holes A, Fig. 1, in the cover and the bottom, 1/4 in. from the center and opposite each other. Then cut a curved line from one hole to the other, as shown at B. A piece of lead, which can be procured from a plumber, is cut in the shape shown in Fig. 2, the size being 1 by 1-1/8 by 1-1/4 in. An ordinary rubber band is secured around the neck of the piece of
[Illustration: Rolling Can Toy]
lead, as shown in Fig. 3, allowing the two ends to be free. The pieces of tin between the holes A, Fig. 1, on both top and bottom, are turned up as in Fig. 4, and the ends of the bands looped over them. The flaps are then turned down on the band and the can parts put together as in Fig. 5. The can may be decorated with brilliant colored stripes, made of paper strips pasted on the tin. When the can is rolled away from you, it winds up the rubber band, thus storing the propelling power which makes it return. --Contributed by Mack Wilson, Columbus, O.
** How to Make a Portfolio [225]
Secure a piece of Russian modeling calf leather of a size equal to 12 by 16 in. Make a paper pattern of the size indicated in the accompanying drawing, putting in the design.
The necessary tools consist of a stick with a straight edge and a tool with an end shaped like that of a nutpick. A nutpick with a V-shaped point will do if the sharpness is smoothed off by means of a piece of emery paper, so that it will indent without cutting the leather. These tools can be bought for this special purpose, but are not essential for this piece if the nutpick is at hand. There
[Illustration: Portfolio Design]
will also be needed a level, non-absorbent surface upon which to lay the leather while working it. A piece of thick glass, metal, or marble will serve.
Begin work by moistening the leather on the back side with a sponge or cloth. Moisten as much as you dare and still not have the moisture show on the face side. Next place the leather on the glass, face up, and, holding the pattern firmly in place so that it will not slip--if possible get some one to hold the pattern for you--place the straight edge on the straight lines and mark out or indent. After this has been done, mark over the design. A pencil may be used the first time over.
The pattern is now to be removed and all the lines gone over with the tool to make them deep and uniform.
The surplus stock around the edges may not be cut off. A neat way to finish the edges is to punch a series of holes entirely around through which a thin leather thong may be laced. If it is desired to "line" the inside, this should be done before the holes are punched or the lacing done.
** Gear for Model Work [225]
When a gear is needed to drive a small pinion and there is none of the right size at hand, one can be made in the following manner: Turn up a wood disk to the proper diameter and 1/4 in. thicker than the pinion, and cut a flat bottom groove 3/16 in. deep in its face. The edges should be about 1/8 in. or more thick on each side. Measure the distance between centers of two adjacent teeth in the pinion and step this off around the periphery in the bottom of the groove. Drill holes into the wood on each point stepped off and insert steel pins made of wire, allowing
[Illustration: Steel Pins in Wood]
the end of each to protrude just far enough to act as a tooth. In this way a good gear for light work can be quickly and cheaply constructed. --Contributed by Henry Schaefer, New York City.
** A Home-Made Vise [226]
While making a box I had some dovetailing to do, and as there was no
[Illustration: Vise on Bench]
vise on the bench I rigged up a substitute. I secured a board 3/4 in. thick, 3 in. wide and 20 in. long and bored a 1/2-in. hole through it, 1 in. from each end. The board was then attached to the bench with two screws passing through washers and the two holes in the . board into the bench top. The screws should be of a length suitable to take in the piece to be worked. --Contributed by A. M. Rice, Syracuse, New York.
** Cardboard Spiral Turned by Heat [226]
A novel attraction for a window display can be made from a piece of stiff cardboard cut in a spiral as shown in Fig. 1. The cardboard should be about 7 or 8 in. in diameter. Tie a piece of string to the center point of the spiral
[Illustration: Spiral Cut from Cardboard]
and fasten it so as to hang over a gas jet, Fig. 2. A small swivel must be put in the string at the top or near the cardboard, if it is desired to have the spiral run for any length of time. The cardboard will spin around rapidly and present quite an attraction. --Contributed by Harry Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.
** A Workbench for the Amateur [226]
The accompanying detail drawing shows a design of a portable workbench suitable for the amateur woodworker. This bench can be made easily by anyone who has a few sharp tools and a little spare time. If the stock is purchased from the mill ready planed and cut to length, much of the hard labor will be saved. Birch or maple wood makes a very good bench. and the following pieces should be ordered:
4 legs, 3 by 3 by 36. 2 side rails, 3 by 3 by 62-1/2 in. 2 end rails, 3 by 3 by 20 in. 1 back board, 1 by 9 by 80 in. 1 top board, 2 by 12 by 77 in. 1 top board, 1 by 12 by 77 in. 2 crosspieces, 1-1/2 by 3 by 24 in. 1 piece for clamp, 1-1/2 by 6-1/2 by 12 in. 1 piece for clamp, 1-1/2 by 6-1/2 by 14 in. 4 guides, 2 by 2 by 18 in. 1 screw block, 3 by 3 by 6 in. 1 piece, 1-1/2 by 4-1/2 by 10-1/2 in.
Make the lower frame first. Cut tenons on the rails and mortise the posts, then fasten them securely together with 3/8 by 5-in. lag screws as shown. Also fasten the 1-1/2 by 3 by 24-in. pieces to the tops of the posts with screws. The heads should be countersunk or else holes bored in the top boards to fit over them. Fasten the front top board to the crosspieces by lag screws through from the under side. The screws can be put in from the top for the 1-in. thick top board.
Fasten the end pieces on with screws, countersinking the heads of the vise end. Cut the 2-in. square holes in the 1-1/2 by 4-1/2 by 10-in. pieces for the vise slides, and fit it in place for the side vise. Also cut square holes in the one end piece for the end vise slides as shown. Now fit up the two clamps. Fasten the slides to the front pieces with screws. Countersink the heads of the screws so they will not be in the way of the hands when the vise is used. The two clamp screws should be about 1-1/2 in. in diameter. They can be purchased at a hardware store. A block should be fitted under the crosspiece to hold the nut for the end vise. After
[Illustration: Detail of the Bench]
you have the slides fitted, put them in place and bore the holes for the clamp screws.
The back board can now be fastened to the back with screws as shown in the top view. The bench is now complete, except for a couple of coats of oil which should be applied to give it a finish and preserve the wood. The amateur workman, as well as the pattern maker, will find this a very handy and serviceable bench for his workshop.
As the amateur workman does not always know just what tools he will need, a list is given which will answer for a general class of work. This list can be added to as the workman becomes more proficient in his line and has need for other tools. Only the long run. If each tool is kept in a certain place, it can be easily found when wanted.
1 bench plane or jointer; 1 jack plane or smoother; 1 cross cut saw, 24 in.; 1 rip saw, 24 in.; 1 claw hammer; 1 set gimlets; 1 brace and set of bits; 2 screwdrivers, 3 and 6 in.; 1 countersink; 1 compass saw; 1 set chisels; 1 wood scraper; 1 monkey wrench; 1 2-ft. rule; 1 marking gauge; 1 pair pliers; 1 nail set; 1 pair dividers; 1 pocket level; 1 6-in. try square; 1 oilstone; No.1, 2 and 00 sandpaper.
[Illustration: Workbench Complete]
** Repairing a Worn Knife Blade [228]
When the blade of a favorite pocket knife, after constant use, becomes like A, Fig. 1, it is more dangerous than
[Illustration: The Blade Is Cut Down]
useful. To cut down the already worn blade would leave only a stump, but if the blade is fastened in a vise and the point B filed off until it is like C, Fig. 2, the projecting point A, Fig. 1, will sink into the handle as shown at D, Fig. 3, and the knife will be given a new lease of usefulness. - --Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
** How to Make a Leather Spectacle Case [228]
The spectacle case shown in the accompanying illustration may be made of either calf or cow skin. The calf skin, being softer, will be easier to work, but will not make as rigid a case as the cow skin. If calf skin is to be used, secure a piece of modeling calf. The extreme width of the case is 2-3/8 in. and the length 6-5/8 in. Two pieces will be required of this size. Put on the design before the two parts are sewed together. First draw the design on paper, then prepare the leather. Place the leather on a small non-absorbent surface, such as copper or brass, and moisten the back side with as much water as it will take and still not show on the face side. Turn the leather, lay the design on the face, and hold it in place while both the outline and decoration are traced on the surface with a pencil or some tool that will make a sharp line without tearing the paper.
After the outlines are traced, go over the indentations a second time so as to make them sharp and distinct. There are special modeling tools that can be purchased for this purpose, but a V-shaped nut pick, if smoothed with emery paper so that it will not cut the leather, will do just as well.
Take a stippling tool--if no such tool is at hand, a cup-pointed nail set will do--and stamp the background. It is intended that the full design shall be placed on the back and the same design placed on the front as far as the material will allow. Be careful in stamping not to pound so hard as to cut the leather. A little rubbing on the point with emery will take off the sharpness always found on a new tool.
Having prepared the two sides, they may be placed together and sewed around the edges.
If cow hide is preferred, the same
[Illustration: Two Designs of Cases]
method of treatment is used, but a form will need to be made and placed inside the case while the leather is drying to give it the right shape. The form can be made of a stick of wood.
** Waterproofing a Wall [229]
The best way to make a tinted wall waterproof is to first use a material composed of cement properly tinted and with no glue in it--one that will not require a glue size on the wall. After this coating of cement is applied directly to the plaster, cover it completely with water enamel and, when dry, give the surface a thorough coating of varnish. This will make a perfectly impervious covering, which steam, water or heat will not affect. --Contributed by Julia A. White, New York City.
**Polishing Flat Surfaces [229]
[Illustration: Polisher]
The work of finishing a number of brass castings with flat sides was accomplished on an ordinary polishing wheel, from which the first few layers of cloth were removed and replaced with emery cloth. The emery surface of the cloth was placed outward and trimmed to the same diameter as the wheel. This made a sanding and polishing wheel in one. --Contributed by Chester L. Cobb, Portland, Maine.
** Rubber Tip for Chair Legs [229]
[Illustration: Rubber Tips]
An inexpensive method of preventing a chair from scratching the floor is to bore a hole of the proper size in the bottom end of each chair leg and then procure four rubber stoppers of uniform size and press them into place.
This cushion of rubber eliminates vibrations, and they will not slip nor mar the finest surface upon which they rest. --Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.
** Adjusting a Plumb-Bob Line [229]
[Illustration: Line Adjustment]
When plumbing a piece of work, if there is no help at hand to hold the overhead line, it is common practice to fasten the plumb line to a nail or other suitable projection. On coming down to the lower floor it is often found that the bob has been secured either too high or too low. When fastening the line give it plenty of slack and when the lower floor is reached make a double loop in the line, as shown in the sketch. Tightening up on the parts AA will bind the loop bight B, and an adjustable friction-held loop, C, will be had for adjusting the bob accurately either up or down. --Contributed by Chas. Herrman, New York City.
** Drier for Footwear [229]
A drier for footwear can be readily made by a tinner, or anyone that can shape tin and solder. The drier consists of a pipe of sufficient length to enter the longest boot leg. Its top is bent at right angles and the other end is riveted to a base, an inverted stewpan, for instance, in whose bottom a few perforations have been made to let air in. The boot or stocking to be dried is placed over the pipe and the whole set on a heated surface. The heat will cause a rapid circulation of air which will dry the article quickly. --Contributed by Wm. Roberts, Cambridge, Mass.
[Illustration: Show Drier]
** Repairing A Roller Shade [229]
A very satisfactory repair can be made by using a good photographic paste to fasten a torn window shade to its roller.
** A Shot Scoop [230]
In the ammunition department of our hardware store the shot was kept in regular square bins and dished out
[Illustration: A Small Square Scoop Made of Tin for Dipping Up Shot Stored in a Square Bin]
with a round-bottom scoop. This was very difficult, especially when the bottom of the bin was nearly reached, as the round scoop would roll over them and only pick up a few at a time. To overcome this difficulty I constructed a square-shaped scoop that gave entire satisfaction. The scoop can be used for other purposes as well.
A thick piece of tin, 6-1/4 by 9-3/4 in., was marked out as shown, the pattern being cut on the full lines and bent on the dotted ones. The strip for the handle was riveted to the end of the scoop. --Contributed by Geo. B. Wright, Middletown, Conn.
** Removing Grease Stains from the Leaves of a Book [230]
Happening to get a grease spot on a page of a valuable book, I found a way to remove it without injury to the paper, which has been tried out several times with success.
Heat an iron and hold it as near as possible to the stain without discoloring the paper, and the grease will disappear. If any traces of the grease are left, apply powdered calcined magnesia. Bone, well calcined and powdered, and plaster of Paris are also excellent absorbents of grease.
A beautifully bound book, and quite new, had oil from a lamp spilled over it. There was no quicklime to be had, so some bones were quickly calcined, pulverized and applied. The next morning there was no trace of oil, but only an odor which soon vanished. --Contributed by Paul Keller, Indianapolis, Ind.
** Tightening Cane in Furniture [230]
Split cane, used as part of furniture, such as chair seats, often becomes loose and the threads of cane pull out. This can be prevented by sponging with hot water, or by applying steaming cloths to the cane. This process also tightens the shreds of cane and does not injure ordinary furniture. If the article is highly polished, care should be taken to prevent the hot water from coming in contact with anything but the cane.
** Cleaner for a Stovepipe [230]
A long horizontal pipe for a stove soon fills with soot and must be cleaned. The usual method is to beat the pipe after taking it down to be cleaned, but a much better device for the purpose is shown in the sketch.
A scrub brush is procured and cut in two, the parts being hinged to a crosspiece fastened to a long broom handle. The brushes are pressed outward
[Illustration: Stovepipe Brush]
against the inside surfaces of the pipe with a wire and spring, as shown. --Contributed by C. L. Herbert, Chicago, Illinois.
** Mounting Photo Prints on Glass [231]
Photograph prints can be mounted on glass with an adhesive made by soaking 1 oz. of sheet gelatine in cold water to saturation, then dissolving in 3-1/2 oz. of boiling water. Let the solution cool to about 110 deg. F., then immerse the print in it and squeegee, face down, on a clear piece of glass. When dry, take a damp cloth or soft sponge and wipe off any surplus gelatine on the glass.
** Dropping Coins in a Glass Full of Water [231]
Take a glass and fill it to the brim with water, taking care that the surface of the water is raised a little above the edge of the glass, but not running over. Place a number of nickels or dimes on the table near the glass and ask your spectators how many coins can be put into the water without making it overflow. No doubt the reply will be that the water will run over before two coins are dropped in. But it is possible to put in ten or twelve of them. With a great deal of care the coins may be made to fall without disturbing the water, the surface of which will become more and more convex before the water overflows.
[Illustration: Dropping Coins]
** Hollow-Grinding Ice Skates [231]
The accompanying sketch illustrates a practical method of clamping ice skates to hold them for grinding the small arc of a circle so much desired.
The U-shaped clamps are made of 3/4-in. soft steel with the opening 6 in. deep and 5 in. high and are bolted to a block of wood, 2 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long. The skate runner is adjusted to the proper height by 1/2-in.. set and thumbscrews. The block
[Illustration: Skate Runner Fastened in Clamp]
of wood holding the clamp and skate can be pushed along on the emery-wheel table in front of the revolving wheel.
If properly adjusted, a slight concave or hollow can be made full length of the runner, true and uniform which will hold on the ice sideways and not retard the forward movement. --Contributed by Geo. A. Howe, Tarrytown, New York.
** How to Make a Bicycle Coasting Sled [231]
The accompanying drawing and sketch illustrate a new type of coasting sled built on the bicycle principle. This coaster is simple and easy to make, says Scientific American. It is constructed of a good quality of pine. The pieces marked S are single, and should be about 1 by 1-1/2 in.; the pieces
[Illustration: Has the Lines of a Bicycle]
marked D are double or in duplicate, and should be 1/2 by 1-1/2 in.
[Illustration: Coasting]
The runners are shod with iron and are pivoted to the uprights as shown, double pieces being secured to the uprights to make a fork. The seat is a board, to the underside of which is a block, which drops down between the two top slats and is secured with a pin. A footrest is provided consisting of a short crosspiece secured to the front of the frame and resting on the two lower slats. The frame and front fork are hinged together with four short eyebolts, E, with a short bolt through each pair as shown.
** Spelling Names with Photo Letters [232]
There are, no doubt, many amateur photographers who make only occasional trips afield or through the more traveled thoroughfares with their cameras during the winter months. Each one is generally interested in working up the negatives that he or she made during the summer or on that last vacation into souvenir post cards, albums and the like, for sending to friends. Illustrated herewith is something different from the album or photographic calendar. The letters forming part of the word POPULAR are good examples of this work.
The masks which outline the letters are cut from the black paper in which plates come packed. Their size depends on the plate used. A sharp knife, a smooth board and a straightedge are all the tools needed, says Camera Craft. If the letters are all cut the same height, they will look remarkably uniform, even if one is not skilled in the work of forming them all in accordance with the rules. Be sure to have the prints a little larger than the letters to insure a sufficient margin in trimming, so as to have a white margin around the finished letters. The best method is to use a good pair of scissors or a sharp knife.
Many combinations can be made of these letter pictures to spell out the recipient's name or the season's greeting. During the holidays the letters may be made from winter scenes to spell "A Merry Christmas" or "A Happy New Year." An Easter greeting may have more spring-like subjects and a birthday remembrance a fitting month. The prints are no more difficult to make than the ordinary kind. In cutting out an 0, for example, do not forget to cut out a piece to correspond to the center. This piece can be
[Illustration: Letters Made from photographs]
placed on the printing paper after the outline mask has been laid down, using care to get it in the right position, and closing the frame carefully so that the small piece will not be disturbed. The letters should be of the kind to give as large an area of surface to have as much of the picture show as possible. What the printer calls black face letters are the most suitable.
By cutting the letters out of black paper in a solid form, and using these as a mask for a second printing after printing the full size of the negatives, these letter pictures can be made with a black border. So made, they can be trimmed to a uniform black line all around; and, mounted on a white card and photographed down to post card size, the greeting so spelled out makes a most unique souvenir. Another application of the letters in copying is to paste them on a white card as before, trim the card even with the bottoms of the letters, stand the strip of card on a mirror laid flat on a table, and then photograph both the letters and their reflections so as to nicely fill a post card. Still another suggestion is to cut out the letters, after, pasting the prints on some thin card, and then arrange them in the desired order to spell out the name or greeting, but with flowers interspersed and forming a background, photographing them down to the desired size. A third means of securing a novel effect by photographing down an arrangement of the letters is to have them cut out in stiff form as in the last method; mount them on short pieces of corks, in turn fastened to a white card forming the background. So arranged, the letters will stand out from the card about 1/2 in. If they are now placed in a light falling from the side and slightly in front, each letter will cast a shadow upon the background, and in the finished print the letters will look as if suspended in the air in front of the surface of the card.
** Holding a Loose Screw [233]
A piece of sheet lead put on each side of a screw will fill up and hold the threads in a too large hole.
A Checker Board Puzzle [233]
Place eight checker men upon the checker board as shown in the first row in the sketch. The puzzle is to get
[Illustration: Placing the Checkers]
them in four piles of two men each without omitting to jump over two checker men every time a move is made.
The first move is to jump 5 over 4 and 3 on 2 which is shown in the second row, then jump 3 over 4 and 6 on 7 and the positions will appear as shown in the third row; jump 1 over 2 and 5 on 4 to get the men placed like the fourth row and the last move is to jump 8 over 3 and 7 on 6 which will make the four piles of two men each as shown in the fifth row. --Contributed by I. G. Bayley, Cape May Point, N.J.
** A Home-Made Rabbit Trap [233]
[Illustration: Rabbit in the Trap]
A good serviceable rabbit trap can be made by sinking a common dry goods box in the ground to within 6 in. of its top. A hole 6 or 7 in. square is cut in each end level with the earth's surface and boxes 18 in. long that will just fit are set in, hung on pivots, with the longest end outside, so they will lie horizontal. A rabbit may now look through the two tubes, says the American Thresherman. The bait is hung on a string from the top of the large box so that it may be seen and smelled from the outside. The rabbit naturally goes into the holes and in this trap there is nothing to awaken his suspicion. He smells the bait, squeezes along past the center of the tube, when it tilts down and the game is shot into the pit, the tube righting itself at once for another catch. The top and sides of the large box may be covered with leaves, snow or anything to hide it. A door placed in the top will enable the trapper to take out the animals. By placing a little hay or other food in the bottom of the box the trap need not be visited oftener than once a week.
** Old-Time Magic - Changing a Button into a Coin [234]
Place a button in the palm of the left hand, then place a coin between the second and third fingers of the right hand. Keep the right hand faced down and the left hand faced up, so as to conceal the coin and expose the button. With a quick motion bring the left hand under the right, stop quick and
[Illustration: Making the Change]
the button will go up the right-hand coat sleeve. Press the hands together, allowing the coin to drop into the left hand, then expose again, or rub the hands a little before doing so, saying that you are rubbing a button into a coin. --Contributed by L. E. Parker, Pocatello, Idaho.
** Buttonhole Trick [234]
This trick is performed with a small stick having a loop attached that is too small for the stick to pass through. Spread out the string and place it each side of the buttonhole, then draw the cloth around the hole through the string until it is far enough to pass the stick through the hole. Pull back the cloth and you have the string looped in
[Illustration: Buttonhole Trick]
the hole with a hitch the same as if the stick had been passed through the string.
The stick may be removed by pulling up the loop as if you were passing the stick through it, putting the stick in the hole and leaving the string on the outside, then spread the string, pulling up the cloth and passing the stick through the hole as before. --Contributed by Charles Graham, Pawtucket, Rhode Island.
** How to Remove Paper from Stamps [234]
Old stamps as they are purchased usually have a part of the envelope from which they are taken sticking to them and in removing this paper many valuable stamps are torn or ruined. Place all the stamps that are stuck to pieces of envelopes in hot water and in a short time they can be separated without injury. Dry the stamps between two white blotters. Stamps removed in this way will have a much better appearance when placed in an album. --Contributed by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.
** Imitation Arms and Armor