PART I

[235]

Genuine antique swords and armor, as used by the knights and soldiers in the days of old, are very expensive and at the present time practically impossible to obtain. The accompanying illustration shows four designs of swords that anyone can make, and if carefully made, they will look very much like the genuine article.

The drawings are so plain that the amateur armorer should have very little difficulty, if any, in building up his work from the illustrations, whether he requires a single sword only, or a complete suit of armor, full size.

The pieces. or designs in this article are from authentic sources, says the English Mechanic, so that where names are given the amateur can so label them, and will thereby greatly add to their interest and value.

An executioners' sword of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. The blade should be about 27 in. long with a handle of sufficient length to be grasped by both hands. The width of the blade near the handle is about 2-1/2 in., tapering down to 1-1/2 in. near the point end. Several ridges are cut around the handle to permit a firm grip. The cross guard is flat and about 1 in. in width.

Mark out the shape and size of the blade on a piece of wood 1/8 in. thick, using a straightedge and a pencil, and allowing a few inches more in length on which to fasten the handle. Cut out the wood with a scroll saw or a keyhole saw, trim the edges down thin and smooth both surfaces with fine sandpaper. The end for the handle is cut about 1 in. wide and 2 in. long. The cross guard is cut out and a hole made in the center through which to pass the handle end of the blade. The handle is next made, and if the amateur does not possess a lathe on which to turn the shape of the handle, the ridges around the wood may be imitated by gluing and tacking on pieces of small rope. The handle is then mortised to receive the 1 by 2-in. end of the blade. The cross guard is now glued and placed

[Illustration: Swords; Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4]

on the blade, then the hole in the handle is well glued with glue that is not too thick and quite hot. The blade with the cross guard is inserted in the handle and allowed to set. When the glue is thoroughly dry, remove the surplus with a sharp knife and paint the handle with brown, dark red, or green oil paint. The blade is covered with tinfoil to give it the appearance of steel. Secure some pieces of tinfoil and cut one strip 1/2 in. wider than the blade and the other 1/4 in. narrower. Quickly paint the blade well with thin glue on one side., then lay evenly and press on the narrow strip of tinfoil. Glue the other side of the blade, put on the wider strip of tinfoil and glue the overlapping edge and press it around and on the surface of the narrow strip. The cross guard must be covered with tinfoil in the same manner as the blade. When the whole is quite dry, wipe the blade with light strokes up and down several times, using a soft and dry piece of cloth. The sword is then ready to hang in its chosen place as a decoration, not for use only in cases of tableaux, for which this article will be especially useful to those who are arranging living pictures wherein swords and armor are part of the paraphernalia.

A Chinese scimitar is shown in Fig. 2. The handle of this sword is oval and covered with plaited cord. In making this scimitar, follow the directions as for Fig. 1, except that the handle has to be covered with a round black cord. If it is found difficult to plait the cord on the handle as in the illustration, wind it around in a continuous line closely together, and finish by fastening with a little glue and a small tack driven through the cord into the handle. The pommel is a circular piece of wood, 1/8 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter. The length of the handle, allowing for a good hold with both hands, should be about 9 in., the length of the blade 28 in., the width near the pommel 1-1/2 in. and 3 in. in the widest part at the lower end. The sharp or cutting edge is only on the short side, the other is flat or half-round.

A Turkish sabre of ancient manufacture from Constantinople is shown in Fig. 3. The handle is painted a dull creamy white in imitation of ivory. The enamel paint sold in small tins will answer well for this purpose. The cross guard and blade are covered as described in Fig. 1. The sharp edge is on the longer curved side, the other is flat or half-round.

A two-handed sword used in the 14th and 15th centuries is shown in Fig. 4. This sword is about 68 in. long, has a cross guard and blade of steel with a round wood handle painted black. The ball or pommel on top of the handle is steel. Both edges of the blade are sharp. This sword is made in wood the same as described for Fig. 1.

** A Dovetail Joint Puzzle [236]

A simple but very ingenious example in joinery is illustrated. In the finished piece, Fig. 1, the dovetail appears on each side of the square stick of

[Illustration: How the Joint Is Cut]

wood, the illustration, of course, shows only two sides, the other two are identical. The joint is separable and each part is solid and of one piece. In making, take two pieces of wood, preferably of contrasting colors, such as cherry and walnut or mahogany and boxwood, about 1-1/2 in. square and of any length desired. Cut the dovetail on one end of each stick as shown in Fig. 2, drive together and then plane off the triangular corners marked A. The end of each piece after the dovetails are cut appear as shown in Fig. 3, the lines marking the path of the dovetail through the stick.

** Radiator Water [236]

Pure rain water is the best to use in a cooling system of an automobile engine, as it is free from the mineral substances which are deposited in the radiator, piping and jackets by hard water.

** Springboard for Swimmers [237]

A good springboard adds much to the fun of swimming. The boards are generally made so that the plank will bend, being dressed down thin at one end and fastened. The thinness of the plank, or an insecure fastening, causes many a plank to snap in two or come loose from its fastenings in a short time.

The accompanying sketch shows the method of constructing a springboard that does not depend upon the bending of the wood for its spring. It is made of a plank, 2 in. thick and from 14 to 16 ft. long, one end of which is secured with a hinge arrangement having a U-shaped rod whose ends are held with nuts. On each edge of the board, at the lower end, are fastened two pieces of strap iron, each about 1 ft. long and with the lower ends drilled to fit the horizontal of the U-shaped rod.

Secure a pair of light buggy springs from a discarded rig and attach them to the ends of a square bar of iron having a length equal to the width of the plank. Fasten this to the plank with bolts, as shown in the sketch. Should the springs be too high they can be moved forward. --Contributed by John Blake, Franklin, Mass.

[Illustration: Buggy Springs Used beneath the Board]

** Taking Button from a Child's Nostril [237]

A three-year-old child snuffed a button up its nostril and the mother, in an attempt to remove it, had caused the button to be pushed farther up the channel. Doctors probed for the button without success. The distracted mother happened to think of snuff, and, as there was some at hand, took a pinch of snuff between the thumb and forefinger and held it close to the child's nose. The violent sneezing caused the button to be blown out. Such an accident may come under the observation of any parent, and if so, this method can be used to relieve the child when medical assistance is not at hand. --Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.

** Brass Frame in Repoussé [237]

Punches can be purchased, as can the pitch bed or block. Both can be made easily, however. Several punches of different sizes and shapes will be needed. A piece of mild steel, about 3/8 in. square, can be easily worked into tools shaped as desired. A cold chisel will be needed to cut the metal to length; a file to reduce the ends to shape, and a piece of emery paper to smooth and polish the end of the tool so that it will not scar the metal.

A small metal box must be secured to hold the pitch. The illustration shows an iron receptacle. The pitch is prepared by heating the following materials in these proportions: pitch, 5 lb.; plaster of Paris, 5 lb.; tallow, 1/2

[Illustration: Design for the Frame]

lb. To put it in another way, use pitch and plaster in equal parts with 1/10 part tallow. See that the pitch and plaster are dry so that the moisture will not cause the pitch to boil over. Keep stirring the mass so that it never boils. Melt the pitch first and add the plaster by degrees.

For a piece of repoussé such as the frame shown, secure a piece of brass of about No. 18 gauge. With carbon paper trace the design on the brass. Place the metal on the pitch bed and work over the outline of the design. Use the chisel-edged tool and try to make the lines continuous. When this has been done, heat the pitch slightly

[Illustration: Working Out The Design]

and place the metal, design down, on the pitch, and with the raising punches work up the shape as desired after the pitch has hardened. When the desired form has been obtained, turn the metal over and "touch up" any places improperly raised. The metal will probably be warped somewhat. To remedy this, place a board on the metal and pound until the metal assumes a flat shape again. Next drill a hole in the center waste and saw out for the opening, using a small metal saw. Trim up the edges and file them smooth. Clean the metal thoroughly, using powdered pumice with lye. Cotton batting fastened to the end of a stick will make a good brush. Upon the cleansed metal put a lacquer to prevent tarnishing. Metal clips may be soldered to the back to hold the picture in place and also a metal strip to hold the frame upright. These should be placed before the metal is lacquered.

** Finding the Horsepower of Small Motors [238]

A small motor often excites curiosity as to its true horsepower, or fraction of a horsepower. Guesses in this direction vary remarkably for the same motor or engine. It is comparatively easy to determine the horsepower put out by almost any machine by the following method which is intended for small battery motors and small steam engines.

Before giving the description, it may be well to know what horsepower means. Horsepower is the rate of work and a unit is equal to 33,000 ft. lb. per minute, or 550 ft. lb. per second. That is lifting 33,000 lb. 1 ft. in one minute or 550 lb. 1 ft. in one second. This may be applied to the problem of finding the horsepower of a motor by fastening a piece of twine about 25 ft. long to the shaft of the engine or motor to be tested in such a way that when the shaft revolves it will wind up the string similar to a windlass. Place the motor in such a position that the twine will hang freely without touching anything: out of a high window will do. Fasten a weight to the other end of the line as heavy as the motor or engine can lift and still run. It must weigh enough to slow the power down a little, but not to stop it. Mark the position of the weight and start the motor, at the same time accurately measuring time in minutes and seconds it takes to lift the weight from the lowest point to the highest. Next measure accurately the distance in feet covered by the weight in its ascent and obtain the correct weight in pounds of the weight.

Multiply the weight by the distance covered and divide the result by the number of minutes or fraction of a minute obtained and divide this last result by 33,000 and the quotient will be the horsepower of the motor or engine.

Perhaps an illustration will make this solution much plainer. Suppose the motor will lift a weight of 1 lb. and still revolve, 30 ft. in 10 seconds or 1/6 of a minute. Multiplying 1 by 30 we get 30, which divided by 1/6 gives 180. This in turn divided by 33,000 equals in round numbers 1/200 part of a horsepower. --Contributed by Harold H. Cutter.

** Illusion for Window Attraction [239]

Gold fish and canary birds, living together in what seems like one receptacle, make an unusual show window attraction. Secure two glass vessels having straight sides of the same height, one 18 in. in diameter (Fig. 1) and the other 12 in. in diameter (Fig. 2). The smaller is placed within the larger, the bottoms being covered with moss and aquarium decorations which can be purchased at a bird store. Fill the 3-in. space between the vessels with water. Cut a piece of galvanized screen into circular form to cover the larger vessel, and hang a bird swing, A, Fig. 3, in the center. Place the screen on top of the vessels so that the swing will hang in the center of the inner vessel. A weight--a box filled with sand will do--should be placed on top of the screen, over the smaller vessel, to keep it from floating. Moss should be put over the top of the screen so that the two separate vessels can not be seen.

[Illustration: 18 in. Diameter; 12 in. Diameter]

[Illustration: Birds and Fish Apparently Together]

Place the birds in the inner vessel and the fish in the water. The effect is surprising. To complete the effect and aid the illusion the vessels can be set in a box lined with black velvet, or on a pedestal. --Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

** Cleaner for White Shoes [239]

Finely ground whiting mixed with water to the consistency of paste makes a very good coating for white shoes. A brush can be used in applying the mixture which will dry in a few minutes. It is best to mix only as much paste as required for immediate use. --Contributed . by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.

** Crossing Belt Laces [239]

Belt laces should never cross on the side next to the pulley as they will cut themselves in two.

** How to Make a Candlestick Holder [240]

A candlestick of very simple construction and design can be made as follows: Secure a piece of brass or

[Illustration: Candle Holder Complete]

copper of No. 23 gauge of a size sufficient to make the pieces detailed in the accompanying sketch. A riveting hammer and a pair of pliers will be needed, also a pair of tin shears and a piece of metal upon which to rivet.

Cut out a piece of metal for the base to a size of 5-1/2 by 5-1/2 in. Trim the sharp corners off slightly. Draw a pencil line all around the margin and 5/8 in. away from the edge. With the pliers shape the sides as shown in the illustration.

Next lay out the holding cup according to the plan of development shown, and cut out the shape with the shears. Polish both of these pieces, using any of the common metal polishes. Rivet the cup to the base, and then, with the pliers, shape the sides as shown in the photograph. The manner of making and fastening the handle is clearly illustrated. Use a file to smooth all the cut edges so that they will not injure the hands.

In riveting, care should be taken to round up the heads of the rivets nicely as a good mechanic would. Do not be content merely to bend them over. This rounding is easily accomplished by striking around the rivets' outer circumference, keeping the center high.

A good lacquer should be applied after the parts have been properly cleaned and polished, to keep the metal from tarnishing.

[Illustration: Details of Candle Holder]

** A Home-Made Duplicator [240]

The usual gelatine pad, which is the principal part of the average hectograph or duplicator, is, as a rule, unsatisfactory, as it is apt to sour and mold in the summer and freeze in the winter, which, with other defects, often render it useless after a few months service.

A compound that is almost indestructible is the preparation sold at art stores as modeling clay. This clay is as easily worked as a putty and is spread into the tray, which may be of wood or tin, and the surface leveled by pounding with a mallet or hammer, then by drawing a straightedge over it.

The surface of the pad is now saturated with pure glycerine. This is poured upon the surface after it is slightly warmed, covering the same and then laying a cloth over the pad and allowing it to stand long enough for the clay to absorb the glycerine, after which it is ready for use.

The original copy is written with a copying pencil or typewritten through a hectograph ribbon. A sheet of newspaper is laid upon the pad and a round stick or pencil is passed over it to make the surface level and smooth. Remove the newspaper and place the original copy face down on the leveled surface and smooth it out in the same way so that every part touches the pad. Remove the copy in about five minutes and place the clean sheets of paper one after another on the surface and remove them. From 50 to 75 copies of the original can be made in a short time.

This compound is impervious to water, so the negative print is removed by simply washing with a damp sponge, the same as removing writing from a slate. This makes it possible to place another original on the pad immediately without waiting for the ink to vanish by chemical action as in the original hectograph.

The action of the weather has no effect upon this compound and it is proof against accident, for the tray may be dropped and the pad dented or cut into pieces, and the clay can be pressed back and leveled. The only caution is to keep it covered with a cloth saturated in glycerine while not in use. --Contributed by A. A. Houghton, Northville, Mich.

** Paper-Clip Bookmark [241]

The combination of a paper clip and a calling card makes a good

## bookmark.

[Illustration: Bookmark]

The clip and card can be kept together by piercing the card and bending the ends of the wire to stick through the holes. The clip is attached to a page as shown in the sketch. --Contributed by Thos. DeLoof, Grand Rapids, Mich.

** Aerating Water in a Small Tank [241]

A simple way of producing air pressure sufficient to aerate water is by the use of a siphon as shown in Fig. 1. The siphon is made of glass tubes, the longer pieces being bent on one end as shown. The air receiver and regulating device are attached to the top end of the lower tube, as shown in Fig. 2. The receiver or air inlet is the most important part. It is made of a glass tube, 3/4 in. in diameter and 5 in. long. A hole is filed or blown through one side of the glass for the admission of air. The ends of the smaller glass

[Illustration: FIG.1 FIG.2 Forcing Air Through Water]

tubes are passed through corks having a diameter to fit the ends of this larger tube. The ends of these tubes should be so adjusted that the continuous drops of water from the upper will fall into the tube below. The succession of air bubbles thus imprisoned are driven down the tube and into the tank below.

The regulator is placed in the tube or siphon above the air receiver. Its purpose is to retard the flow of water from the siphon above and make it drop rapidly. It consists of a rubber connecting tube with two flat pieces of wood clamped over the center and adjusted with screws. The apparatus is started by clamping the rubber tube tightly and then exhausting the air in the siphon tube, then placing the end in the upper reservoir and releasing the clamp until the water begins to drop. If the reservoir is kept filled from the tank, the device will work for an indefinite time. --Contributed by John T. Dunlop, Shettleston, Scotland.

** Imitation Arms and Armor-