PART III

[248]

Maces and battle-axes patterned after and made in imitation of the ancient weapons which were used from the

[Illustration: Ancient Weapons]

fourteenth to the sixteenth century produce fine ornaments for the hall or den, says the English Mechanic. The imitation articles are made of wood, the steel parts represented by tinfoil stuck on with glue and the ornaments carved out with a carving tool.

An English mace used about the middle of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1. The entire length of this weapon is about 24 in.; the handle is round with a four-sided sharp spike extending out from the points of six triangular shaped wings. Cut the handle and spike from one piece of wood and glue the wings on at equal distances apart around the base of the spike. The two bands or wings can be made by gluing two pieces of rope around the handle and fastening it with tacks. These rings can be carved out, but they are somewhat difficult to make. After the glue is dry, remove all the surplus that has been pressed out from the joints with the point of a sharp knife blade and then sandpaper the surface of the wood to make it smooth. Secure some tinfoil to cover the parts in imitation of steel. A thin coat of glue is quickly applied to the surface of the wood and the tinfoil laid on evenly so there will be no wrinkles and without making any more seams than is necessary. The entire weapon, handle and all, is to appear as steel.

An engraved iron mace of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 2. This weapon is about 22 in. long, mounted with an eight-sided or octagonal head. It will be easier to make this mace in three pieces, the octagonal head in one piece and the handle in two parts, so that the circular shield shown at the lower end of the handle can be easily placed between the parts. The circular piece or shield can be cut from a piece of wood about 1/4 in. thick. The circle is marked out with a compass. A hole is made through the center for the dowel of the two handle parts when they are put together. A wood peg about 2 in. long serves as the dowel. A hole is bored in the end of both handle pieces and these holes well coated with glue, the wood peg inserted in one of them, the shield put on in place and handle parts put together and left for the glue to set. The head is fastened on the end of the handle with a dowel in the same manner as putting the handle parts together.

The head must have a pattern sketched upon each side in pencil marks, such as ornamental scrolls, leaves, flowers, etc. These ornaments must be carved out to a depth of about 1/4 in. with a sharp carving tool. If such a tool is not at hand, or the amateur cannot use it well, an excellent substitute will be found in using a sharp-pointed and red-hot poker, or pieces of heavy wire heated to burn out the pattern to the desired depth. The handle also has a scroll to be engraved. When the whole is finished and cleaned

[Illustration: Battle Axes of the Fourteenth, Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries]

Up, it is covered with tinfoil in imitation of steel. The tinfoil should be applied carefully, as before mentioned, and firmly pressed into the engraved parts with the finger tips or thumb.

A French mace used in the sixteenth century is shown in Fig. 3. This weapon is about 22 in. long and has a wood handle covered with dark red cloth or velvet, the lower part to have a gold or red silk cord wound around it, as shown, the whole handle finished off with small brass-headed nails. The top has six ornamental carved wings which are cut out, fastened on the handle and covered with tinfoil, as described in Fig. 2.

Figure 4 shows a Morning Star which is about 26 in. long. The spiked ball and the four-sided and sharp-pointed spike are of steel. The ball may be made of clay or wood and covered with tinfoil. The spikes are cut out of wood, sharp-pointed and cone-shaped, the base having a brad to stick into the ball. The wood spikes are also covered with tinfoil. The handle is of steel imitation, covered in the middle with red cloth or velvet and studded with large-headed steel nails.

A war hammer of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 5. Its length is about 3 ft. The lower half of the handle is wood. covered with red velvet, with a golden or yellow cord wound spirally over the cloth. The upper half of the handle is steel, also, the hammer and spike. The entire handle should be made of one piece, then the hammer put on the base of the spike. The spike made with a peg in its lower end and well glued, can be firmly placed in position by the peg fitting in a hole made for its reception in the top of the handle. Finish up the steel parts with tinfoil.

The following described weapons can be constructed of the same materials and built up in the same way as described in the foregoing articles: A horseman's short-handled battle-axe, used at the end of the fifteenth century, is shown in Fig. 6. The handle is of wood and the axe in imitation steel. Figure 7 shows an English horseman's battle-axe used at the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The handle and axe both are to be shown in steel. A German foot soldier's poleaxe used, at the end of the fourteenth century is shown in Fig. 8. The handle is made of dark wood and the axe covered with tinfoil. Figure 9 shows an English foot soldier's jedburgh axe of the sixteenth century. The handle is of wood, studded with large brass or steel nails. The axe is shown in steel. All of these axes are about the same length.

** Playing Baseball with a Pocket Knife [250]

An interesting game of baseball can be played by two persons with a common pocket knife on a rainy day or in

[Illustration: Positions of the Knife Indicate the Plays]

the winter time when the regular game cannot be played outdoors. The knife is opened and loosely stuck into a board, as in Fig. 1, and with a quick upward movement of the forefinger it is thrown into the air to fall and land in one of the positions shown. The plays are determined by the position of the knife after the fall.

A foul ball is indicated by Fig. 2, the knife resting on its back. The small blade sticking in the board which holds the handle in an upright position, as shown in Fig. 3, calls for a home run. Both blades sticking in the board (Fig. 4), a three-base hit. A two-base hit is made when the large blade sticks in the board, Fig. 5. A one-base hit is secured when the large blade and the end of the handle touch the board as in Fig. 6. The knife falling on its side (Fig. 7) calls for one out. Each person plays until three outs have been made, then the other plays, and so on for nine innings. --Contributed by Herbert Hahn, Chicago.

** How to Remove Paper Stuck to a Negative [250]

When making photographic prints from a negative, sometimes a drop of moisture will cause the print to stick to the gelatine film on the glass. Remove as much of the paper as can be readily torn off and soak the negative in a fresh hypo bath of 3 or 4 oz. hypo to 1 pt. of water for an hour or two. Then a little gentle rubbing with the finger-not the finger nail will remove anything adhering to the film. It may be found that the negative is not colored. If it is spotted at all, the negative must be washed for a few minutes and placed in a combined toning and fixing bath, which will remove the spots in a couple of hours. The negative must be well washed after going through the solutions to take away any trace of hypo.

** Old-Time Magic - A Sack Trick [251]

The magician appears accompanied by his assistant. He has a sack similar to a meal bag only on a large scale. The upper end of this bag is shown in Fig. 1, with the rope laced in the cloth. He then selects several people from the audience as a committee to examine the sack to see that there is absolutely no deception whatever in its makeup. When they are satisfied that the bag or sack is all right, the magician places his assistant inside and drawing the bag around him he allows the committee to tie him up with as many knots as they choose to make, as shown in Fig. 2.

The bag with its occupant is placed in a small cabinet which the committee surround to see that there is no outside help. The magician then takes his watch and shows the audience that in less than 30 seconds his assistant will emerge from the cabinet with the sack in his hand. This he does, the sack is again examined and found to be the same as when it was first seen.

[Illustration: Sack Trick-Holding the Rope Inside the Bag]

The solution is when the assistant enters the bag he pulls in about 15 in. of the rope and holds it, as shown in Fig. 3, while the committee is tying him up. As soon as he is in the cabinet he merely lets out the slack thus making enough room for his body to pass through. When he is out of the bag he quickly unties the knots and then steps from his cabinet. --Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

** The Invisible Light [251]

The magician places two common wax candles on a table, one of them burning brightly, the other without a light. Members of the audience are allowed to inspect both the table and the candles.

The magician walks over to the burning candle, shades the light for a few seconds, turns to the audience with his hands a few inches apart, showing that there is nothing between them, at the same time saying that he has a light between his hands, invisible to them (the audience), with which he is going to light the other candle. He then walks over to the other candle, and, in plain sight of the audience lights the candle apparently with nothing.

In reality the magician has a very fine wire in his hand which he is heating while he bends over the lighted candle, and the audience gaze on and see nothing. He turns to the other candle and touches a grain of phosphorus that has been previously concealed in the wick with the heated wire, thus causing it to light. --Contributed by C. Brown, New York City.

** Using the Sun's Light in a Magic Lantern [251]

The light furnished with a small magic lantern does very well for evening exhibitions, but the lantern can be used in the daytime with good results by directing sunlight through the lens instead of using the oil lamp. A window facing the sun is selected and the shade is drawn almost down, the remaining space being covered by a piece of heavy paper. A small hole is

[Illustration: Magic Lantern]

cut in the paper and the lantern placed on a table in front of the hole, the lamp having been removed and the back opened. The lantern must be arranged so that the lens will be on a horizontal line with the hole in the paper. A mirror is then placed just outside of the window and at such an angle that the beam of light is thrown through the hole in the paper and the lens of the lantern.

The shades of the remaining windows are then drawn and the lantern is operated in the usual way. --Contributed by L. B. Evans, Lebanon, Ky.

** A Handy Drill Gauge [252]

The accompanying sketch shows a simple drill gauge which will be found very handy for amateurs. The gauge consists of a piece of hard wood, 3/4 in. thick, with a width and length that will be suitable for the size and number of drills you have on hand. Drill a hole through the wood with each drill you have and place a screw eye in one end to be used as a hanger. When you want to drill a hole for a pipe, bolt,

[Illustration: Drill Gauge]

screw, etc., you take the gauge and find what size drill must be used in drilling the hole.-Contributed by Andrew G. Thome, Louisville, Ky.

** Stove Polish [252]

A good stove polish can be made by mixing together 1 lb. of plumbago, 4 oz. of turpentine, 4 oz. of water and 1 oz. of sugar. Mix well and apply with a cloth or brush.

A Home-Made Daniell Cell [252]

An effective Daniell galvanic cell may be constructed from material costing very little money. A common tin tomato can with a copper wire soldered to the top forms the jar and positive electrode. A piece of discarded stove zinc rolled into an open cylinder of about 1-1/2-in. diameter, 5 in. long, with a copper wire soldered at one end forms the negative electrode.

To make the porous cell, roll a piece of heavy brown wrapping paper, or blotting paper, into a tube of several thicknesses, about 5 in. long with an internal diameter of 2 in. Tie the paper firmly to prevent unrolling and close up one end with plaster of paris 1/2 in. thick. It is well to slightly choke the tube to better retain the plaster. The paper used must be unsized so that the solution scan mingle through the pores.

Two liquids are necessary for the cell. Make a strong solution in a glass or wooden vessel of blue vitriol in water. Dilute some oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) with about 12 times its measure of water and keep in a bottle when not in use. In making up the solution, add the acid to the water with constant stirring. Do not add water to the acid.

The cell is charged by placing the zinc in the paper tube and both placed into the tin can. Connect the two wires and pour the dilute acid into the porous cell around the zinc, and then immediately turn the blue vitriol solution into the can outside the paper cup.

A current generates at once and metallic copper begins to deposit on the inside of the can. It is best to let the action continue for a half hour or so before putting the cell into use.

[Illustration: Daniell Cell]

Several hours working will be required before the film of copper becomes sufficiently thick to protect the tin from corrosion when the cell stands idle. For this reason it will be necessary to pour out the blue vitriol solution into another receptacle immediately after through using, as otherwise the tin would be soon eaten full of holes. The porous cup should always be emptied after using to prevent the diffusion of the blue vitriol solution into the cup, and the paper tube must be well rinsed before putting away to dry.

This makes one of the most satisfactory battery cells on account of the constancy of its current, running for hours at a time without materially losing strength, and the low cost of maintenance makes it especially adapted for amateurs' use. Its current strength is about one volt, but can be made up into any required voltage in series. A battery of a dozen cells should cost not to exceed 50 cts. for the material, which will give a strong, steady current, amply sufficient for all ordinary experimental work.

A strong solution of common salt may be used in place of the oil of vitriol in the porous cup, but is not so good. --Contributed by C. H. Denniston, Pulteney. N. Y.

** A Home-Made Equatorial [253] By Harry Clark

The ordinary equatorial is designed and built for the latitude of the observatory where it is to be used. This is necessary since the hour axis must point to the north pole of the heavens whose elevation above the horizon is equal to the latitude of the observer's station. The final adjustment of an ordinary equatorial is very tedious so that when once set up it is not to be moved. This calls for a suitable house to protect the instrument. It has been the aim of the writer to build a very simple instrument for amateur work which would be adjustable to any latitude, so easily set up ready for work and so portable that it need not be left out of doors from one evening until the next.

[Illustration: Instrument for Locating Stars]

The instrument is mounted on a tripod or piece of iron pipe carrying a short vertical rod of 3/8-in. steel. A rectangular wooden frame with suitable bearings rotates about this shaft. The frame has also two horizontal bearings carrying a short shaft to the end of which the frame carrying the hour axis is firmly clamped. By this arrangement of two perpendicular shafts the hour axis may be directed to any point in the heavens without care as to how the tripod or pipe is set up.

The frame for the hour axis is about 12 in. long with a bearing at each end. The shaft which it carries is 1/4-in. steel, carrying the hour circle at one end, and at the other the frame for the declination axis which is similar to the other, but somewhat lighter. The declination axis is also of 1/4-in. steel, carrying at one end the declination circle and the pointer at the other.

The entire frame of the instrument is made of cherry and it will save the builder much time if he will purchase cherry "furniture" which is used by printers and can be obtained from any printers' supply company. It is best quality wood free from imperfections in straight strips one yard long and of a uniform width of about 5/8 in. As to thickness, any multiple of 12-point (about 1/8 in.) may be obtained, thus saving much work in fitting up joints. Fifty cents will buy enough wood for an entire instrument. All corners are carefully mortised and braced with small brass angle-pieces. The frame is held together by small brass machine screws. After much experimentation with bearings, it was found best to make them in halves as metal bearings are usually made. The loose half is held in place by guides on all four sides and is tightened by two screws with milled nuts. A great deal of trouble was experienced in boring out the bearings until the following method was devised. One hole was bored as well as possible. The bearing was then loosened and a bit run through it to bore the other. Finally, a piece of shafting was roughened by rolling it on a file placed in both bearings and turned with a brace. The bearings were gradually tightened until perfectly ground.

The declination axis must be perpendicular to both the hour axis and the line of sight over the pointer. To insure this, a positive adjustment was provided. The end of the shaft is clamped in a short block of wood by means of a bearing like the ones described. One end of the block is hinged to the axis frame, while the other end is attached by two screws, one drawing them together, the other holding them apart. The axis is adjusted by turning these screws. Each shaft, save the one in the pipe, is provided with this adjustment.

The pointer is of two very thin strips placed at right angles and tapered slightly at each end. The clamp is attached as shown in the illustration. The eye piece is a black iron washer supported on a small strip of wood. The aperture should be 1/4 in., since the pupil of the eye dilates very much in darkness. The error due to large aperture is reduced by using a very long pointer which also makes it possible to focus the eye upon the front sight and the star simultaneously. The forward sight is a bright brass peg illuminated by a tiny electric lamp with a reflector to shield the eye. The pointer arranged in this way is a great improvement over the hollow tube sometimes used, since it allows an unobstructed view of the heavens while indicating the exact point in question.

The circles of the instrument are of aluminum, attached to the shafts by means of wooden clamps. They were nicely graduated by a home-made dividing engine of very simple construction, and the figures were engraved with a pantograph. The reading is indicated by a cut on a small aluminum plate attached to a pointer. The hour circle is divided into 24 parts and subdivided to every four minutes. The figures are arranged so that when the instrument is set up, the number of hours increases while the pointer travels oppositely to the stars. The declination circle is graduated from zero to 90 deg. in each direction from two points 180 deg. apart. It is, adjusted to read zero when the pointer and two axes are mutually perpendicular as shown in the picture.

To adjust the instrument it is set up on the iron pipe and the pointer directed to some distant object. All set screws, excepting those on the declination axis, are tightened. Then the pointer is carefully turned through 180 deg. and if it is not again directed to the same point, it is not perpendicular to the declination axis. When properly set it will describe a great circle. With the declination axis in an approximately horizontal position the place where the pointer cuts the horizon is noted. The declination axis is then turned through 180 deg., when the pointer should again cut at the same place. Proper adjustment will cause it to do so. It is desirable that the hour circle should read approximately zero when the declination axis is horizontal, but this is not necessary for a reason soon to be explained. All these adjustments, once carefully made, need not be changed.

In using the instrument the hour axis can be directed to the north pole by the following method. Point it approximately to the north star. The pole is 1 deg. and 15 min. from the star on a straight line from the star to "Mizar," the star at the bend of the handle in the Big Dipper. Turn the hour circle into a position where the pointer can describe a circle through "Mizar." Only a rough setting is necessary. Now turn the pointer so that a reading of 88 deg. 45 min. shows on the declination circle on that side of 90 which is toward "Mizar." When this is done, clamp both axes and turn the shafts in the base until the pointer is directed accurately to the north star. It is evident from a study of the picture that the position of the small pointer which indicates the reading on the hour circle is not independent of the way in which the tripod or pipe is set up. It would then be useless to adjust it carefully to zero when the pointer cuts the "zenith" as is done with a large equatorial. Instead, the adjustment is made by setting the clock or watch which is part of the outfit. The pointer is directed to Alpha, Cassiopiae, and the hour reading subtracted from 24 hours (the approximate right ascension of the star) gives the time which the clock should be set to indicate. All of these settings should require not more than five minutes.

To find a star in the heavens, look up its declination and right ascension in an atlas. Set the declination circle to its reading. Subtract the clock time from the right ascension (plus 24 if necessary) and set the hour circle to the result. The star will then be seen on the tip of the pointer.

To locate a known star on the map, turn the pointer to the star. Declination is read directly. Add the clock time to the hour reading to get right ascension. If the result is more than 24 hours, subtract 24.

** A Ground Glass Substitute [255]

Ordinary plain glass coated with the following mixture will make a good ground glass substitute: Dissolve 18 gr. of gum sandarac and 4 gr. of gum mastic in 3-1/2 dr.. of ether, then add 1 2-3 dr. benzole. If this will be too transparent, add a little more benzole, taking care not to add too much. Cover one side of a clear glass and after drying it will produce a perfect surface for use as a ground glass in cameras. --Contributed by Ray E. Strosnider, Plain City, Ohio.

** A Miniature War Dance [255]

A piece of paper, 3 or 4 in. long, is folded several times, as shown in the sketch, and the first fold marked out to represent one-half of an Indian. Cut out all the folds at one time on the dotted line and you will have as many men joined together as there were folds in the paper. Join the hands of the two end men with a little paste so as to form a circle of Indians holding hands.

The next thing to do is to punch holes in heavy cardboard that is large enough to cover a pot or stew pan, and

[Illustration: Indian War Dance]

## partially fill the vessel with water. Set this covered vessel over

a heat and bring the water to a boiling point and then set the miniature Indians on the perforated cover. The dance will begin.

If the Indians are decked out with small feathers to represent the head gear and trailing plumes, a great effect will be produced. --Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

** Saving an Engine [255]

Turning the water on before starting the gas engine may prevent breaking a cylinder on a cold day.

** OLD-TIME MAGIC [256]

Removing 36 Cannon Balls from a Handbag

The magician produces a small handbag and informs the audience that he has it filled with 20-lb. cannon balls. He opens up the bag and takes out a ball which he passes to the audience

[Illustration: Balls Made of Spring Wire]

for examination. The ball is found to be the genuine article. He makes a few passes with the wand and produces another ball, and so on until 36 of them lie on the floor.

In reality the first ball, which is the one examined, is the real cannon ball, the others are spiral-spherical springs covered with black cloth (Fig. 1). These balls can be pressed together in flat disks and put in the bag, Fig. 2. without taking up any great amount of space. When the spring is released it will fill out the black cloth to represent a cannon ball that cannot be distinguished from the real article. --Contributed by J. F. Campbell, Somerville, Mass.

** A Rising Card Trick [256]

A rising card trick can be accomplished with very little skill by using the simple device illustrated. The only

[Illustration: Card Slips from the Pack]

things needed are four ordinary playing cards and a short rubber band. Pass one end of the rubber band through one card and the other end through the other card, as shown in the illustration, drawing the cards close together and fastening the ends by putting a pin through them. The remaining two cards are pasted to the first two so as to conceal the pins and ends of the rubber band.

Put the cards with the rubber band in a pack of cards; take any other card from the pack and show it to the audience in such a way that you do not see and know the card shown. Return the card to the pack, but be sure and place it between the cards tied together with the rubber band. Grasp the pack between your thumb and finger tightly at first, and by gradually loosening your hold the card previously shown to the audience will slowly rise out of the pack. --Contributed by Tomi O'Kawara, San Francisco, Cal.

** Sliding Box Cover Fastener [256]

[Illustration: Box with Fastener]

While traveling through the country as a watchmaker I found it quite convenient to keep my small drills, taps, small brooches, etc., In boxes having a sliding cover. To keep the contents from spilling or getting mixed in my case I used a small fastener as shown in the accompanying illustration, The fastener is made of steel or brass and fastened by means of small screws or tacks on the outside of the box. A hole is drilled on the upper part to receive the pin that is driven into the sliding cover. This pin should not stick out beyond the thickness of the spring, which is bent up at the point so the pin will freely pass under it. The pin can be driven through the cover to prevent it from being pulled entirely out of the box. --Contributed by Herm Grabemann, Milwaukee, Wis.

** How to Chain a Dog [257]

A good way to chain a dog and give him plenty of ground for exercise is to stretch a clothesline or a galvanized

[Illustration: The Dog Has Plenty of Room for Exercise]

wire between the house and barn on which is placed a ring large enough to slide freely. The chain from the dog's collar is fastened to the ring. This method can also be used for tethering a cow or horse, the advantage being the use of a short tie rope eliminating the possibility of the animal becoming entangled.

** Water-Color Box [257]

There are many different trays in the market for the purpose of holding water colors, but they are either too expensive for the average person or too small to be convenient. I do a great deal of water-color work and always felt the need of a suitable color dish. At last I found something that filled my want and suited my pocketbook. I bought 22 individual salt dishes and made a box to hold them, as shown in the illustration. This box has done good service.

Some of the advantages are: Each color is in a separate dish which can be easily taken out and cleaned; the dishes are deep enough to prevent spilling the colors into the adjoining ones, and the box can be made as big or as small as individual needs require. The tray containing the color dishes and brushes rests on 1/4-in. round pieces 2-1/4 in. from the bottom of the box, thus giving ample store room for colors, prints, slides and extra brushes.

[Illustration: Color Trays Made of Salt Dishes]

--Contributed by B. Beller, Hartford, Connecticut.

** Saving Ink Pens [257]

Ink usually corrodes pens in a short time. This can be prevented by placing pieces of steel pens or steel wire in the ink, which will absorb the acid and prevent it from corroding the pens.

** A Plant-Food Percolator [258]

Obtain two butter tubs and bore a large number of 1/4-in. holes in the bottom of one, then cover the perforated part with a piece of fine brass gauze (Fig. 1), tacking the gauze well at the corners. The other tub should be fitted with a faucet of some kind--a wood faucet, costing 5 cents, will answer the purpose. Put the first tub on top of the other with two narrow strips between them (Fig. 2). Fill the upper tub, about three-fourths full, with well packed horse manure, and pour water on it until it is well soaked. When the water has percolated through into the lower tub, it is ready to use on house and garden plants and is better than plain water, as it adds both fertilizer and moisture. --Contributed by C. O. Darke, West Lynn, Mass.

[Illustration: FIG.1, Fig. 2]

** Lathe Safety [258]

Always caliper the work in a lathe while it is standing still. Never use the ways of a lathe for an anvil or storage platform.

** Folding Quilting-Frames [258]

The frame in which the material is kept stretched when making a quilt is usually too large to be put out of the way conveniently when other duties must be attended to; and especially are the end pieces objectionable. This can be remedied by hinging the ends so they will fold underneath to the center. The end pieces are cut in two at one-fourth their distance from each end, a hinge screwed to the under side to hold them together, and a hook and eye fastened on the other side to hold the parts rigid when they are in use. When the ends are turned under, the frame is narrow enough to be easily carried from one room to another, or placed against a wall.

** A Drip Shield for the Arms [258]

When working with the hands in a pan of water, oil or other fluid, it is very disagreeable to have the liquid run down the arms, when they are raised from the pan, often to soil the sleeves of a clean garment. A drip shield which will stop the fluid and cause it to run back into the pan can be easily made from a piece of sheet rubber or, if this is not available, from a piece of the inner tube of a bicycle tire. Cut a washer with the hole large enough to fit snugly about the wrist, but not so tight as to stop the

[Illustration: Shields for the Arms]

circulation of the blood. A pair of these shields will always come in handy. --Contributed by L. M. Eifel, Chicago.

** How to Cane Chairs [259]

There are but few households that do not have at least one or two chairs without a seat or back. The same households may have some one who would enjoy recaning the chairs if he only knew how to do it, and also make considerable pin money by repairing chairs for the neighbors. If the following directions are carried out, new cane seats and backs can easily be put in chairs where they are broken or sagged to an uncomfortable position.

The first thing necessary is to remove the old cane. This can be done by turning the chair upside down and, with the aid of a sharp knife or chisel, cutting the cane between the holes. After this is done the old bottom can be pulled out. If plugs are found in any of the holes, they should be knocked out. If the beginner is in doubt about finding which holes along any curved sides should be used for the cane running nearly parallel to the edge, he may find it to his advantage to mark the holes on the under side of the frame before removing the old cane.

The worker should be provided with a small sample of the old cane. At any first-class hardware store a bundle of similar material may be secured.

The cane usually comes in lengths of about 15 ft. and each bundle contains

[Illustration: Three Stages of Weaving]

enough to reseat several chairs. In addition to the cane, the worker should provide himself with a piece of bacon rind, a square pointed wedge, as shown in Fig. 1, and 8 or 10 round wood plugs, which are used for temporarily holding the ends of the cane in the holes.

[Illustration: First Layer of Strands]

A bucket of water should be supplied in which to soak the cane just before weaving it. Several minutes before you are ready to begin work, take four or five strands of the cane, and, after having doubled them up singly into convenient lengths and tied each one into a single knot, put them into the water to soak. The cane is much more pliable and is less liable to crack in bending when worked while wet. As fast as the soaked cane is used, more of it should be put into the water.

Untie one of the strands which has been well soaked, put about 3 or 4 in. down through the hole at one end of what is to be the outside strand of one side and secure it in this hole by means of one of the small plugs mentioned. The plug should not be forced in too hard nor cut off, as it must be

[Illustration: First Two Layers in Place]

removed again. The other end of the strand should be made pointed and passed down through the hole at the opposite side, and, after having been pulled tight, held there by inserting another plug. Pass the end up through the next hole, then across and down, and hold while the second plug is moved to the last hole through which the cane was drawn. In the same manner proceed across the chair bottom. Whenever the end of one strand is reached, it should be held by a plug, and a new one started in the next hole as in the beginning. No plugs should be permanently removed until another strand of cane is through the same hole to hold the first strand in place. After laying the strands across the seat in one direction, put in another layer at right angles and lying entirely above the first layer. Both of these layers when in place appear as shown in one of the illustrations.

After completing the second layer, stretch the third one, using the same holes as for the first layer. This will make three layers, the first being hidden by the third while the second layer is at right angles to and between the first and third. No weaving has been done up to this time, nothing but stretching and threading the cane through the holes. The cane will have the appearance shown in Fig. 3. The next thing to do is to start the cane across in the same direction as the second layer and begin the weaving. The top or third layer strands should be pushed toward the end from which the weaving starts, so that the strand being woven may be pushed down between the first and third layers and up again between pairs. The two first strands of the fourth layer are shown woven in Fig. 3. During the weaving, the strands should be lubricated with the rind of bacon to make them pass through with ease. Even with this lubrication, one can seldom weave more than half way across the seat with the pointed end before finding it advisable to pull the remainder of the strand through. After finishing this fourth layer of strands, it is quite probable that each strand will be about midway between its two neighbors instead of lying close to its mate as desired, and here is where the square and pointed wedge is used. The wedge is driven down between the proper strands to move them into place.

Start at one corner and weave diagonally, as shown in Fig. 4, making sure that the strand will slip in between the two which form the corner of the square in each case. One more weave across on the diagonal and the seat will be finished except for the binding, as shown in Fig. 5. The binding consists of one strand that covers the row of holes while it is held down with another strand, a loop over the first being made every second or third hole as desired. It will be of great assistance to keep another chair with a cane bottom at hand to examine while recaning the first chair. --Contributed by M. R. W.

** Repairing a Cracked Composition Developing Tray [260]

Fill the crack with some powdered rosin and heap it up on the outside. Heat a soldering-iron or any piece of metal enough to melt the rosin and let it flow through the break. When cool, trim off the surplus rosin. If handled with a little care, a tray repaired in this manner will last a long time. The chemicals will not affect the rosin. --Contributed by E. D. Patrick, Detroit, Michigan.

** How to Lay Out a Sundial [261]

The sundial is an instrument for measuring time by using the shadow of the sun. They were quite common in ancient times before clocks and watches were invented. At the present time they are used more as an ornamentation than as a means of measuring time, although they are quite accurate if properly constructed. There are several different designs of sundials, but the most common, and the one we shall describe in this article, is the horizontal dial. It consists of a flat circular table, placed firmly on a solid pedestal and having a triangular plate of metal, Fig. 1, called the gnomon, rising from its center and inclined toward the meridian line of the dial at an angle equal to the latitude of the place where the dial is to be used. The shadow of the edge of the triangular plate moves around the northern part of the dial from morning to afternoon, and thus supplies a rough measurement of the hour of the day.

The style or gnomon, as it always equals the latitude of the place, can be laid out as follows: Draw a line AB, Fig. 1, 5 in. long and at the one end erect a perpendicular BC, the height of which is taken from table No. 1. It may be necessary to interpolate for a given latitude, as for example, lat. 41 degrees-30'. From table No. 1 lat. 42 degrees is 4.5 in. and for lat. 40 degrees, the next smallest, it is 4.2 in. Their difference is .3 in. for 2 degrees, and for 1 degrees it would be .15 in. For 30' it would be 1/2 of 1 degrees or .075 in. All added to the lesser or 40 degrees, we have 4.2+.15+.075 in.= 4.42 in. as the height of the line BC for lat. 41 degrees-30'. If you have a table of natural functions, the height of the line BC, or the style, is the base (5 in. in this case) times the tangent of the degree of latitude. Draw the line AD, and the angle BAD is the correct angle for the style for the given

[Illustration: Details of Dial]

TABLE No. 1.

Height of stile in inches for a 5in. base, for various latitudes

Latitude Height Latitude Height 25 2.33 42 4.50 26 2.44 44 4.83 27 2.55 46 5.18 28 2.66 48 5.55 30 2.89 50 5.96 32 3.12 52 6.40 34 3.37 54 6.88 36 3.63 56 7.41 38 3.91 58 8.00 40 4.20 60 8.66

latitude. Its thickness, if of metal, may be conveniently from 1/8 to 1/4 in. ; or if of stone, an inch or two, or more, according to the size of the dial. Usually for neatness of appearance the back of the style is hollowed as shown. The upper edges which cast the shadows must be sharp and straight, and for this size dial (10 in. in diameter) they should be about 7-1/2 in. long.

To layout the hour circle, draw two parallel lines AB and CD, Fig. 2, which will represent the base in length and thickness. Draw two semi-circles, using the points A and C as centers, with a radius of 5 in. The points of intersection with the lines AB and CD will be the 12 o'clock marks. A line EF drawn through the points A and C, and perpendicular to the base or style, and intersecting the semicircles, gives the 6 o'clock points. The point marked X is to be used as the center of the dial. The intermediate hour and half-hour lines can be plotted by using table No. 2 for given latitudes, placing them to the right or left of the 12-o'clock points. For latitudes not given, interpolate in the same manner as for the height of the style. The

Table NO. 2. Chords in inches for a 10 in. circle Sundial.

Lat HOURS OF DAY 12-30 1 1-30 2 2-30 3 3-30 4 4-30 5 5-30 11-30 11 10-30 10 9-30 9 8-30 8 7-30 7 6-30 20 .28 .56 .87 1.19 1.57 1.99 2.49 3.11 3.87 4.82 5.93 30 .33 .66 1.02 1.40 1.82 2.30 2.85 3.49 4.26 5.14 6.10 35 .38 .76 1.16 1.59 2.06 2.57 3.16 3.81 4.55 5.37 6.23 40 .42 .85 1.30 1.77 2.27 2.82 3.42 4.07 4.79 5.55 6.32 45 .46 .94 1.42 1.93 2.46 3.03 3.64 4.29 4.97 5.68 6.39 50 .50 1.01 1.53 2.06 2.68 3.21 3.82 4.46 5.12 5.79 6.46 55 .54 1.08 1.63 2.19 2.77 3.37 3.98 4.60 5.24 5.87 6.49 60 .57 1.14 1.71 2.30 2.89 3.49 4.10 4.72 5.34 5.93 6.52

1/4-hour and the 5 and 10-minute divisions may be spaced with the' eye or they may be computed.

When placing the dial in position, care must be taken to get it perfectly level and have the style at right angles to the dial face, with its sloping side pointing to the North Pole. An ordinary compass, after allowing for the declination, will enable one to set the dial, or it may be set by placing it as near north and south as one may judge and comparing with a watch set at standard time. The dial time and the watch time should agree after the watch has been corrected for the equation of time from table No. 3, and for the difference between standard and local time, changing the position of the dial until an agreement is reached. Sun time and standard time agree only four times a year, April 16, June 15, Sept. 2 and Dec. 25, and on these dates the dial needs no correction. The corrections for the various days of the month can be taken from Table 3. The + means that the clock is faster, and the means that the dial is faster than the sun. Still another correction must be made which is constant for each given locality. Standard time is the correct time for longitude 750 New York, 900 Chicago, 1050 Denver and 1200 for San Francisco. Ascertain in degrees of longitude how far your dial is east or west of the nearest standard meridian and divide this by 15, reducing the answer to minutes and seconds, which will be the correction in minutes and seconds of time. If the dial is east of the meridian chosen, then the watch is slower; if west, it will be faster. This correction can be added to the values in table No. 3, making each value slower when it is east of the standard meridian and faster when it is west.

The style or gnomon with its base can be made in cement and set on a cement pedestal which has sufficient base placed in the ground to make it solid.

The design of the sundial is left to the ingenuity of the maker. --Contributed by J. E. Mitchell, Sioux City, Iowa.

Table No. 3

Corrections in minutes to change. Sun time to local mean time,- add those marked + subtract those Marked - from Sundial lime.

Day of month 1 10 20 30 January +3 +7 +11 +13 February +14 +14 +14 March +13 +11 +8 +5 April +4 +2 -1 -3 May -3 -4 -4 -3 June -3 +1 +1 +3 July +3 +5 +6 +6 August +6 +5 +3 +1 September +0 -3 -5 -10 October -10 -13 -15 -16 November -16 -16 -14 -11 December -11 -7 -3 +2

** Imitation Arms and Armor-