CHAPTER XV

THE PLUMBING IN YOUR KITCHEN

Once upon a time there was a business man who, upon buying his first house, bought simultaneously a plumber’s kit. He was sure he could save a lot of money by attending to simple matters himself. One day a simple faucet sprung a simple leak. He confidently used a complicated tool and the result was a vast sea of trouble. Plumbers! Expense! It is not necessary to draw the moral.

The plumbing in the house is akin to the alimentary canal in the human body, and is as complicated a system as the alimentary canal. The system of plumbing in the house is a series of pipes which carries water to the house, and eliminates it as it carries with it various forms of waste, connecting the house with the main sources of water, gas and with the sewage system. The best plumbing is that which effects these things with the least deterioration and with the least mixture of sewer gas and foreign matter.

Every community has its own plumbing laws and regulations. This is true unless you build in very rural sections where there is no sewage system. However, this article will deal only with conditions in which a sewage system prevails.

PLUMBING LAWS

As will be seen by the following excerpts from the plumbing laws of New York City, the ordinary housewife need not worry about transgressing the law, as everything, from the material used to the size of it and the laying of it, is controlled. And the plumber is supposed to know these rules before he is licensed. But it is in no way as glorious as poetic license!

All the materials must be of the best quality, free from defects, and all work must be executed in a thorough, workmanlike manner.

All cast-iron pipes and fittings must be uncoated, sound, cylindrical and smooth, free from cracks, sand holes and other defects, and of uniform thickness, and of the grade known in commerce as “extra heavy.”

The size, weight and maker’s name must be cast on each length of pipe.

All joints must be made with picked okum and molten lead and be made gas-tight. Twelve ounces of fine, soft pig lead must be used at each joint for each inch in the diameter of the pipe.

All wrought iron and steel pipes must be equal in quality to “standard” and must be properly tested by the manufacturer. All pipe must be lap-welded. No plain black or uncoated pipe will be permitted.

Each building must be separately and independently connected with a public or private sewer, or cesspool, except where a building is located in the rear of the same lot with another building, when its plumbing and drainage system may be connected to the house-drain of the front building behind the house trap and fresh air inlet which shall be used for both buildings if sewer connected; or may be connected to an existing cesspool of front house and be provided with a separate house trap and fresh air inlet.

FURTHER PROVISION

Where there is no sewer in the street or avenue, and it is possible to construct a private sewer to connect in an adjacent street or avenue, a private sewer must be constructed. It must be laid outside the curb, under the roadway of the street.

All pipes and traps should, where possible, be exposed to view. They should always be readily accessible for inspection and repairing.

In every building where there is a leader connected to the drain, if there are any plumbing fixtures, there must be at least one 4″ pipe extended above the roof for ventilation.

The contents of settling chamber or dust receptacle for vacuum cleaners may be discharged into a plumbing and drainage system.

Leaders must be trapped with cast-iron running traps so placed as to prevent freezing.

Rain-water leaders must not be used as soil, waste or vent pipes, nor shall any such pipe be used as a leader.

To have an intelligent understanding of what the plumber has to know, it might be well to know what certain terms are which are used in the plumbing rules.

DEFINITIONS

The term “private sewer” is applied to main sewers that are not constructed by and under the supervision of the Department of Public Works.

The term “house sewer” is applied to that part of the main drain or sewer extending from a point two feet outside of the outer front wall of the building, vault or area to its connection with public sewer, private sewer or cesspool.

The term “house drain” is applied to that part of the main horizontal drain and its branches inside the walls of the building, vault or area and extending to and connecting with the house sewer.

The term “soil line” is applied to any vertical line of pipe having outlets above the floor of first story for water closet connections.

The term “waste line” is applied to any vertical line of pipe having outlets above the first floor for fixtures other than water closet.

The term “vent pipe” is applied to any special pipe provided to ventilate the system of piping and to prevent trap siphonage and back pressure.

THE TRAP

Most important from the hygiene point of view is the trap, which is a curved pipe permitting the last of a flow of water to remain in the pipe to prevent a back flow of sewage gas into the house. There are for use various forms of traps under different circumstances which, of course, are entirely the plumber’s business.

In hotels and large institutions, and in some large homes, a grease trap is built in the sink which is so constructed as to separate the grease from the water, which obviates clogging of the pipes and which amasses the grease which is sold to soap makers for soap.

FRESH AIR INLETS AND MAIN TRAPS

Fresh air inlets and main traps are also for the prevention of odors and gases coming directly from the sewer. The entrance of these gases often takes place, even though the plumbing is excellent, by the settling of the floors and foundation rendering the soil pipes defective.

The question of soil pipes, etc., is sufficiently covered by the plumbing regulations so far as not to need any explanations here.

Every sink, of course, must have its own trap.

The following are a few excerpts from the law:

SEWERS, DRAINS AND TRAPS

must be of extra heavy cast-iron. When found in a leaky or defective condition, shall not be repaired or replaced except with heavy cast-iron pipe.

The house drain and its branches must be of extra heavy cast-iron when underground, and of extra heavy cast-iron or galvanized wrought iron or steel when above ground.

The house-drain must properly connect with the house sewer at a point two feet outside of the outer front vault or area wall of the building. An arched or other proper opening must be provided for the drain in the wall to prevent damage by settlement.

No steam-exhaust, boiler blow-off or drip-pipe shall be connected with the house-drain. Such pipes must first discharge into a proper condensing tank, and from this a proper outlet to the house sewer outside of the building must be provided. In low pressure steam systems the condensing tank may be omitted, but the waste connections must be otherwise as above required.

SOIL AND WASTE LINES

All main, soil, waste or vent pipes must be of iron, steel or brass.

Soil and waste pipes must have proper Y or TY branches for all fixture connections.

The diameters of soil and waste pipes must not be less than those given in the following table:

Main soil stacks 4″ Main waste stacks 2″ Branch wastes for slop sinks 3″ Branch waste for kitchen sinks 2″

VENT PIPES

All vent pipe lines and main branches must be of iron, steel or brass. They must be increased in diameter and extended above the roof as required for waste-pipes. They may be connected with the adjoining soil or waste line well above the highest fixture, but this will not be permitted when there are fixtures on more than six floors.

Branch vent pipes shall be kept above the top of all connecting fixtures, so as to prevent the use of vent pipes as soil pipes or waste-pipes. Branch vent pipes should be connected not less than six inches nor more than two feet from crown of trap or side of lead bend.

No form of trap will be permitted to be used unless it has been approved by the Superintendent of Buildings or the Board of Standards and Appeals.

No anti-siphon trap or deep-seal siphon-jet fixture shall be approved until it has successfully passed such test as may be prescribed by the Board of Standards and Appeals.

A set of not more than three wash trays may connect with a single trap, or onto the trap of an adjoining sink, provided both sink and tub waste outlets are on the same side of the waste line, and the sink is nearest the line. When so connected, the waste-pipe from the washtrays must be branched in below the water-seal.

The sizes for traps must not be less than those given in the following table:

Traps for slop sinks 3″ in diameter Traps for kitchen sinks 2″ in diameter Traps for wash-trays 2″ in diameter

Now, of course, all the foregoing relates to the whole house as well as to the kitchen. But, as the kitchen sanitary conditions depend upon the same regimen, the foregoing is a basis for kitchen usage.

The kitchen is mainly concerned with the water supply and water waste, which is the result of cooking, washing, cleaning, and storage (refrigerator).

SINKS AND CONNECTIONS

The entry of water to the kitchen is effective through faucets, for the most part, in some sort of a sink. What then should these sinks be, and what should be the nature of their connections? For the most part, the building law will take care of the connections, but you should see to it that the traps are below the sinks and are in plain sight, and that the materials used, for your own good, should not only be within the law, but a little above it. Another thing you must remember, in ordering sinks, is that they should be smooth, in one piece if possible, having a seamless interior, non-absorbent, non-rusting, and with a certain amount of elasticity, so that when hit by sharp and heavy utensils, neither the utensil nor the sink is cracked or injured by the impact.

The materials to be used in the making of sinks are tin, wood, soap-stone, galvanized iron, slate, copper, enamel, enamel over iron, a porcelain-like material over metal, and solid porcelain. Stone and slate are poor because they are too absorbent. Wood is bad for the same reason. Tin rusts, copper is difficult to keep clean and is rarely used for anything but pantry sinks. Enamel over iron is excellent, porcelain over iron is better, solid porcelain is regal but has the disadvantage of having so little resiliency that dishes are apt to break when coming too effectively in contact with it. This is often obviated in the pantry by enclosing the pantry sink in a wooden casing. The surface of good porcelain over metal will not scratch.

SECOND GRADES

Solid porcelain sinks are all made from the same material, yet the

## action of fire affects some differently from others. For instance, a

workman may fail to work out of the wet mould a bit of air in the clay, and when this piece is fired in the kiln the air condenses and bursts out and the result is a slight streak; or a bit of copper may get into the clay causing a green stain on the piece. When such things occur, it does not alter the value of the sink, but the high grade manufacturer marks these “second grade.” This is well for you to know as it really does not effect the lasting qualities and probably the initial cost is lower. The shallower a sink is the easier, of course, it is to take care of.

The general run of sinks has the metal base with a porcelain-like covering, as they are elastic and are kind to falling china. However, you cannot go wrong in buying any of the enameled, or porcelain over iron, or the solid porcelain, bought from the well-equipped, long established manufacturies. There is one firm which makes a superb solid porcelain sink in thirteen varieties, including two vitreous (porcelain over metal) slop sinks. When you think of one firm making so many varieties, and a few other firms making almost as many, it soon becomes necessary for the domiologists to know what to tell a plumber to install, before the masculine mind installs something for which you will have little use. Of course, it depends first on what the sink is to be used for. In large kitchens, the pot sink, vegetable sink, and slop sink are used, sometimes two of some of these varieties. In the medium kitchen, the pot sink and one of the others. In the small kitchen, just the ordinary pot sink is used.

Do not buy an all-roll sink; that is, a sink with a curved rim and no back, unless your kitchen has a tiled wall. Why? Because your wall will be splashed to the destruction point.

Very commodious sinks measure 5′ 2″ over-all, back 9″ high, wall to front, 26¹⁄₂″. This size sink is often in two divisions, one for washing, and one for rinsing, and has integral drain boards (of self material as part of the sink). If the integral drain board is not of wood or metal, it can be rendered kindlier to china by a rubber mat. Some sinks have a 5′2″ back, some just have a porcelain back behind the faucets.

A small sink a little over 3′ can be had with or without integral drain boards on either side, and a vent at the right end, so as not to interfere with the dishes.

Speaking of drain boards, it is very often expedient to have them hinged to the wall, or so attached to the sink that they can be let down and out of the way.

PATENTED MATERIALS

Sinks of patented materials, with trade names, which are often metals with a porcelain-like covering, also come in many sizes and in many designs, and are, as inferred above, quite as valuable in usefulness and beauty as solid porcelain, with one exception, of course, that under some remote circumstance a chipping off of the material may occur. But the makers of solid porcelain sinks make a metal-coated slop sink where an extra heavy thudding, by pails and cleaning instruments, is apt to occur. This precaution speaks for itself. The solid porcelain certainly gives you a feeling that you have the best, yet some of the greatest houses in the country use the other types of sinks.

Although we have touched upon the subject of drain boards, there are few more words to say about them.

The sink with a double drain board is, of course, the most convenient, but this is not always possible. They are made of metal, such as copper and zinc, and also of wood, either oak or ash, preferably ground ash, hard enough to prevent absorption. Sometimes they are of metal over wood. The porcelain drain board is easiest of all to clean, requiring only a moist cloth passed over the porcelain or metal under porcelain, while the others need scouring and scraping. The grooves in any of these boards must not be so deep as to require digging to remove lost

## particles. Most pantry sinks have the wooden drain boards and the wooden

enclosed solid porcelain sinks, just to save breakage. “Boards,” of course, should always be slightly tilted toward the sink.

It is wiser to have sinks 36″ high, or have them on adjustable standards.

If 36″ happens to be too high, a long wooden step can be provided. It is better to step up than to form a crick in one’s back.

However, any plumber will alter the standards, no matter what sink you buy. Sinks are purchasable with from one to four standards, depending upon what space in the kitchen is to harbor said sink.

The standards of sinks are made of glass, brass, nickle plate, or porcelain, or a porcelain coating over metal. Some of these standards are supplied with adjustable bracelets, making it possible to raise and lower the sink to desired levels. The nickle standard is very desirable, as is the brass, but they require cleaning and polishing. The glass and porcelain families need just to be rubbed down with a moist cloth.

Slop sinks are made to set lower than other sinks in order to obviate lifting up heavy pails of water, etc.

OUTLETS

The question of outlets in the sink is simple. The outlet should not be perforated so minutely as to prevent rapid exit of the water, and yet the holes must not be large enough to permit foreign matter to clog the pipes of the plumbing system. Very often it is wise to have a wire net over the outlet. Some sinks are equipped with stoppers and with cylindrical outlets familiar in wash basins and bath tubs. In these sinks the water is kept in until it is time to release it, obviating the necessity of wash basins. Sunken outlets are a nuisance to keep clean.

FAUCETS

Faucets are usually of metal, and high priced ones are of enamel. Some sinks have two sets of faucets, two in each set. Some have a higher faucet, a goose neck pattern, for filling carafes. The metal faucets are generally brass and nickel plated. Brass corrodes and is hard to keep clean. The nickel are very satisfactory but cost more. The enamel are quite ideal because the polishing is absolutely obviated. In this case it is a toss-up to the purchaser what it is best to save--time or money. Then there is the pressure faucet--the one which has to be held in order to get water out of it. These are quite hateful and ought never to be used unless the water price is almost prohibitive. Sometimes a foot pressure faucet is used in order that the worker may have his hands free for work. A new faucet which can be swung into different positions is to be had on the new pantry sinks.

If the water pressure is extraordinarily high, try to get faucets on your sink with air chambers to take care of this extra pressure. And try, above all things, to buy faucets that emit a flow of water which does not splash the worker.

Unless you are a skilled mechanic, don’t try even to put a new washer in your faucet to stop a leak. Because, unless you are skilled, you may forget to shut the stop-cock which cuts off the sink from the main water supply, which may be under the sink or in the cellar.

And to prevent a woeful catastrophe, don’t forget, if you leave your house unheated in the winter, to turn off the water in the cellar.

FILTERS

The question of filters, (See