CHAPTER XLII
THE FIRE HAZARD
The chief underlying reasons for fires in civilized communities are: carelessness, ignorance and panic.
The immediate causes are: kitchen stove and range maladjustments; heating stove and furnace pipe lapses; trouble in chimney flues and pipings; carelessness with lamps, gas, oily rags, cleaning fluids; soot deposits of soft coal; spontaneous combustion; bad insulation; no insulation; cigarettes, etc.; no means to put out a fire when it starts; and, topping it all hidden electric diseases cause almost more fires than any other one cause.
In rural farm communities there are the forest and brush fires, which we need consider but grudgingly here, the many fires which catch from roof to roof, and the fires from the chimney which start one’s own roof afire. Then there are lightning, incendiary fires by tramps, kerosene oil lanterns; creosote from the smoke and soot in wood-burning communities disintegrates the mortar in the masonry, and as the woodwork comes in contact with the chimneys, fires are the result. To these are added the other hazards common to all modern life to-day.
Farmers or those living out of the range of the fire department should be more especially equipped against fire than any other groups. For example, a ladder is a great necessity, and yet many people who are in isolated places never spend a little money on a good one that might save the roof and then the home, to say nothing of lives.
Dirty lamps with loose connections cause many a fire and should be thought about seriously. Wet days on the farm are great fire makers, for clothes are put near to the fire, and whoop la!--a very warm fire ensues! Candles, too, are handled carelessly and should be treated as inflammable material when they are lit. Most ashes will spontaneously burn if set away, as the fine bits of coal and grease adore fire. Lanterns plus hay if not carefully used are another cause of fire. So carelessness really is the root of 99% of fires, and yet we indulge ourselves in this ruthless pleasure.
Probably the kitchen is one of the best little hatcheries in the home for fires. Why that is, is easy enough to see. The chief cause here is negligence and its first cousin, ignorance.
Fires are swift followers of these conventions:
Ignition of wood floors under, or walls back of, stoves; drying wood in ovens; kindling left over night too near the stove; clothes hung on backs of chairs too near the stove or on the clothes horse too near to the stove, especially if they have been cleaned with gasoline or other cleaning fluids; thin clothes, flimsy sleeves catching a flame make delightfully hot and dangerous fires.
Fires may be guarded against in these ways:
1. Metal shields projecting at least 6″ at the sides and back and 12″ in front of ash pans should be placed under all kitchen stoves standing on wooden floors.
2. All ranges on wood or combustible floors and beams that are not supported on legs, and have ash pans 3″ or more above their base, should be set on brick foundations.
3. Large ranges, if under combustible ceilings, should have metal hoods above with a ventilating pipe passing through to the outer air through a sleeve or asbestos packing.
4. Wood stud partitions back of ranges standing 12″ or less away should be shielded with metal from the floor to at least 36″ higher than the ranges.
5. It should be remembered that tin, zinc or sheet-iron used to protect woodwork from the heat should be so placed that there will be an air space between it and the wall.
6. If a metal is against the wood, it only serves to conceal charring without preventing it. Bear in mind that bright tin reflects more heat than sheet iron.
7. Watch stovepipes for parted joints and rust holes; clean soot from chimneys and stovepipes at stated intervals; do not allow plaster back of stoves to remain broken.
8. There is now a fine asbestos product made which is a mixture of cement and wood and asbestos which if placed under the stove or even back of it will prevent fire. This material is not cold to the foot, can be highly polished and is most delightful in a well groomed kitchen. This too can be used for table tops and is polished by a mixture made for its express demands.
This asbestos wood is invaluable for partitions, obviating very thick and expensive walls; and due to its lightness it can be used for light frame houses and insure fire protection. It is used for switch-board and other insulations by electricians, etc. It takes various stains and finishes in imitation of wood or marble, is rigid, light and fireproof.
It is the same physically as wood except that it is fireproof, takes a higher polish and is harder. It can be used not only for making walls, floors and ceilings fireproof, but window casing, partitions, base-boards, cabinets, and all trim. It is moisture-resisting and impervious to weather conditions.
The people that are the most careful of the pocketbook seem to forget the ordinary fire peril and don’t seem to realize the necessity for concentration on the cures, probably because they are optimists and do not think of any trouble--yet why pay so dearly for optimism?
For example, most stoves should be at least 24″ to 30″ from these things that combine so affectionately with them and should be at least 6″ off the floor if not standing on metal or asbestos wood. If lath and plaster are protected by a metal shield, then the stoves can be within 18″ with safety. A fire proof material should be at least 36″ square on the floor to catch flying embers from stove or fire.
The fire clay linings in the stove should be watched and seen to be sound, and the fire in any stove should never be made above the fire clay linings. Possibly you have not heard of these things before and they sound like the cry of the alarmist. Never fear. It is better to cry before you’re hurt, sometimes, than afterwards!
Never put kindling wood in the oven.
Deposit all ashes in metal receptacles or upon non-combustible floors, removing same from building at least once a week. Barrels or boxes should not be used for storing or carrying ashes unless they are constructed entirely of metal.
Before starting fires in the autumn, thoroughly clean out the furnace and flues thereto, also the fireplaces.
Carefully examine them and immediately repair or replace any defective part. Don’t burn out chimneys and flues by making an especially hot fire with paper, etc. Main chimneys should be cleaned from roof to cellar. All stovepipes where entering chimneys should be provided with metal collars and rigidly fixed in place. Replace any tile, crock or flimsy flues and chimneys with substantial brick chimneys.
Gas stoves or other heaters should have a ventilating flue to carry off the burned gas fumes, which are poisonous. Do not use portable rubber or similar tubing, but connect all gas stoves rigidly and securely with gas pipe. Examine valves and see that they are tight and do not leak.
Never permit a stove of any kind to be set up without stone, brick, concrete or metal protection underneath, or near a partition without a metal shield and air space. Never run stovepipes through partitions, or paste paper over flue holes.
All types of open fireplaces or stoves, especially where there are children, should be provided with substantial spark screens.
Don’t throw waste paper on an open fire unless you watch it more than carefully.
Every period of extreme cold results in numerous fires due to forcing the heating apparatus. Keep this in mind next winter. Watch your heater.
Keep hoods and pipes of kitchen range free from grease and lint by cleaning with hot water and lye.
Do not hang clothes or bags near stoves, or on stovepipes or steam pipes or on electric bulbs. In the case of the recondite furnace whose being we take for granted, the same principles apply as to the stove. For safety, asbestos about the wood and adjacent places makes safety sure, and if safety first doesn’t apply here where does it? It will at least keep the secretive fire below stairs from breaking bounds.
Where pipes, flues, etc., pass through woodwork there should be asbestos or metal protection to the wood or else here again we will be victims of a lapse of precaution.
Sometimes fires have occurred by the closing of all registers in a house heated by hot air and the unnatural heat left in the furnace overheats pipes, etc., to a dangerous degree. In some homes so heated there are two registers which cannot possibly be closed, and obviates overheating.
Inspection of flues to see that deteriorated mortar will not permit the exit of fire to surrounding woodwork will prevent many a fire. Very often where joists and beams rest on chimneys and are not sufficiently insulated against the ravages of faulty construction or wear, they will catch fire slowly but surely.
Faulty joints in pipes are many times the cause of fire when the rest of the home is perfectly guaranteed against it. For example, when a stovepipe is fitted into another there should be at least a 3″ lap to make a safe joint. Imperfect junctures of pipe and flue, pipe and pipe, make for the escape of sparks and consequent fire. Stovepipes should not pass through a floor or plaster partition or any concealed place, lest a parted joint or rust holes may cause mischief.
Nor should any pipe that is likely to be heated pass through an attic where fluff is bound to accumulate, unless this pipe be insulated with asbestos to prevent ignition. Neither should a stovepipe pass through a roof, window or siding even of a summer kitchen; and the running of a very long stovepipe perpendicularly into a chimney is also hazardous.
A stovepipe or a chimney, no matter how well isolated by zinc or what not, can set the ordinary shingled roof on fire by the escape of fiercely burning bits of soot and cinder. Many a roof has been burned this way, to say nothing of the whole house.
There is to-day, besides the heavy tile, metal and composition roof, an asbestos roofing in the shape of shingles of any color and shape that will wear indefinitely, and is absolutely fireproof, moisture-proof and light enough to be put on any house. Furthermore if you don’t want to remove the old wooden roof, this shingle can be put over it and make a better roof than without the old one, as the insulation value of the wood will keep the attic warm in winter and cool in summer. There are many asbestos roofings, the best of which are made of asbestos fiber, cement; these are made in all colors, sizes and shapes and can be put on by any roofer. There is never any reason to repaint or repair them, and if they are a bit higher at first in price than the ordinary shingle, you save in the lack of upkeep and the fact that no sparking can go on between your neighbor’s roof and your own or between your chimney and your own roof. Copper roofs now are within the scope of more purses than heretofore.
You have to remove stains from your garments, and for this may incur death and destruction by fire quite readily. But death is not necessary if a few precautions be taken. Keep the gasoline or whatever you may have in a can that can be bought for the purpose. Then don’t deposit it in the stove or near it, but away from it where there is no chance of any fire coming in contact with it. Don’t clean your clothes with these fluids in the smoking room or the kitchen. If possible clean them outdoors.
FUELS
Wood as a fuel is dangerous because it burns rapidly, makes a lot of ashes and has to be replenished so often. Kerosene makes a lot of trouble because there is such crass ignorance in its use. Some people seem to love to fill a lamp when it is burning. Of course this is the worst thing that one could do. And others dote on pouring kerosene on an open fire. Gasoline is explosive and as a fuel for the home not at all warranted. Water won’t be a very good extinguisher in these cases, but we will talk about extinguishers a little later on.
When you realize that six percent of all fires are caused by lamps it will do no one harm to learn the following rules by heart and by brain:
Kerosene should always be handled by daylight and away from all flames and fires. Under no circumstances whatever should a lamp be filled while its wick is lighted. After filling a lamp both the burner and the reservoir should always be carefully wiped free from oil films.
When a lamp is not burning it is well to keep the wick a little below the top of the tube. This helps to prevent oil from working over the burner and reservoir.
Lamps should be filled as often as they are used. Especially do not light a lamp when the oil is low in the reservoir. Never use a burner which fits loosely upon the rest of the lamp. Never use a lamp wick which does not fit the tube provided for it. Never blow out a kerosene flame downward. Turn down the wick a little and let the flame go out of itself.
If you must blow it out blow upward through the burner or across the top of the chimney. Both of these methods produce an upward draught.
Do not try to carry a blazing lamp to a place of safety. The least agitation may cause an explosion. When the lamp is well filled there is small chance of gas forming in it; but as the oil is consumed explosive gases form.
A burner that is kept clean and bright radiates heat, while a dirty one conducts heat to a lamp.
Glass lamps are especially dangerous. The dropping or breaking of lighted lamps and the spreading of burning oil annually bring havoc to many hundreds of homes.
MEDICAMENTS
As well as cleaning fluids the presence of medicine and liniments made of ether and chloroform and alcohol are always causes of fire when not properly housed in the right kind of metal medicine chest and not directly over or near a gas jet or oil lamp. So remember to use carefully anything with these chemicals or camphor, varnishes, turpentine, benzine or gasoline. Keep them in tin cans, which are to be had for them. Use them in daylight.
Never leave rags around saturated with oils, medicines or greases, because spontaneous combustion will take place.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, the attic, cellar and all closets and outbuildings should be cleaned at least once every year, and all useless material and rubbish removed therefrom and burned. These unnecessary accumulations are dangerous, and are the causes of many fires. Store all remaining material neatly so that a clear passage may be had between or around boxes, cases, barrels, etc.
Metal waste baskets, only, should be used.
In storing clothing, first remove all matches or other material from the pockets and then carefully fold and neatly place away. Do not hang clothes where they will be near hot chimneys. Do not go into closets with lighted matches or candles.
Care should be exercised in burning leaves, dead grass or rubbish. Keep these fires a safe distance from buildings, and never light them on windy days.
Do not bank houses in winter with straw, excelsior or other readily inflammable material; a chimney spark or carelessly thrown match may ignite it.
Use safety matches, and make it impossible for children to get them. Always place burned matches in metal receptacles; never throw them on the floor or into waste baskets.
To smoke in garages, in beds, or around stables containing hay is deliberately to invite disaster.
Swinging gas brackets are dangerous, and never should be allowed near curtains or dressers. Fix them rigidly so as to avoid contact with combustible material. If open gas flames are within two feet of ceiling, see that ceiling is protected with sheet metal or asbestos board. Tips for gas lights are inexpensive, while a light used with a broken tip or without a tip often causes fire. Don’t use gas pendant mantles unless protected underneath with wire gauze. Hot carbon deposits form and drop from mantles of gas arc lamps. A globe closed at the bottom is safer.
Examine the gas meter, see that it is securely set and well connected, and is not located near open lights or furnaces. An outside gas shut-off valve to service-connection is desirable. Never look for gas leaks with a match, candle or lamps.
Where a dwelling is lighted by a gasoline vapor or acetylene gas system the rules governing the safe use of these illuminants should be carefully studied and rigidly observed.
Illuminating oils should be kept in closed metal cans in a safe place, and lamps should never be filled except by daylight. Kerosene lamps should be kept clean and properly trimmed. If allowed to burn all night, select one that contains much more than enough oil. A dirty lamp containing only a little oil is unsafe.
Do not use paper or decorative shades of inflammable material on lamps or electric light bulbs.
Electricity can be a real hidden peril and extends throughout the wire system in a building. Be sure it is safely installed, and have the system carefully inspected and approved by a recognized electric inspector. Many fires are due to defective electric wiring. Do not destroy insulation on electric light, fan or heater wires by hanging them on hooks or nails. Immediately repair or replace any defective switches, fuses, sockets, etc. A fuse is the “safety valve” of an electric system, and should never be replaced by one of larger size or any other material.
Before attaching electric irons, vacuum cleaners, cooking utensils or any other electrical device to your lighting circuits or sockets, consult an electrician as to the ability of your wiring to withstand this additional load. Electric wiring systems are designed to carry only a certain current, and if overloaded may cause fires. Numerous fires have been caused by leaving electric irons with the current on. Disconnect them immediately when through using. _Electricity is safe but carelessness is unsafe._
HEATING AND GARAGE HAZARDS
Coal and kindling should preferably be kept within a brick or stone enclosure and not stored against frame partitions nor directly against walls of boiler or furnace. It is well to see that the garden hose may be attached to the kitchen faucet.
Never allow open flame lights in a garage. When filling the tank, run the auto outside, so that gasoline vapors will dissipate.
Do not keep quantities of gasoline or calcium carbide inside of garage or dwelling. An approved underground storage tank is the safest method for keeping gasoline.
[Illustration: DETACH PLUG FROM IRON AS WELL AS FROM SOCKET IF YOU WANT YOUR HOME INTACT]
[Illustration:
_Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._
DON’T PULL THE CORD A MILE ABOVE THE IRON TO DETACH, BUT TAKE IT DOWN CLOSE TO THE IRON. THIS SAVES THE WIRES AND FIRES]
[Illustration:
_Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._
SHE HAS PREPARED THE WAY FOR A NICE LITTLE FIRE]
[Illustration: SHE IS CAREFUL AND HER IRON WILL NOT PRACTICE ARSON]
A metal waste can should be located at a convenient place outside the garage for all waste and greasy rags. Burn these every week. Never use sawdust or shavings to absorb grease and oil. Scrub floor (if wooden) occasionally with hot water and lye.
The use of gasoline for cleaning parts of the automobile in the garage is a dangerous thing.
The garage should not be heated by means of stove or open fire of any kind, unless same is isolated in another room so that the gasoline vapors of garage cannot possibly get to it. Gasoline vapor travels. Being heavier than air, it seeks low levels. Ventilation should be arranged to take care of vapors collecting near the floor.
Keep an approved fire extinguisher and a pail of sand in the garage. Water thrown on burning gasoline merely serves to spread it.
In many cases water will quench fire. But in the case of oils, alcohol and other volatile liquids and grease fires water simply spreads the fire and you are in more trouble than you were at first.
THE BIG EIGHT
The eight firemakers in the order of their devastating power are as follows: Electrical, due to carelessness and lack of proper inspection; matches and smoking; defective chimneys and flues; stoves, furnaces, pipings and boilers; spontaneous combustion; sparks on roofs, and petroleum and its products. From 1915 to 1919 the value of fires from these causes aggregated $1,416,375,845. Is it any wonder that there is now agitation all over the United States to have at least thirty minutes given each week to the study of fire prevention? Saving the home is better even than building more homes.
EXTINGUISHERS
Every home, of course, should be equipped with the best possible extinguisher. There are any number of them on the market. Do you know of many motorists who refuse the call of the extinguisher? There are not many who have not one in their car, yet there are few homes with them. Large homes should have one on every floor. Small homes, even if they have not enough footage to lower their insurance rates, should have them to reduce the fire hazard.
What kind should the householder buy? The chief thing here is to buy one that has no fancy method of operation, that simply by inverting the container turns on a forceful stream; light as possible in weight, not over 25 pounds and preferably about 12, so that a woman can use it. Right there it is interesting to note that _The Fireman’s Herald_ reports that women daily put out more fires and obviate conflagrations than men; that were it not for the fact that women put out so many, the fire peril would have been far greater.
Other things that you must demand in the extinguisher are that it must have at least a stream of 20′ long; that there must be no suffocating fumes from the chemical’s contact with the fire; that the chemical must be as nearly stainproof as possible so that in a small fire the room is not unnecessarily disfigured. The chemical must not freeze readily at least not above 27 or 28 degrees Fahrenheit.
There is one extinguisher on the market to-day that is gaining mightily in favor, because it spreads a foam over the fire and cuts off the oxygen, and the laying of the foam prevents a flash-back when the fire is nearly out. At first this was used in the extinguishing of oil fires, the heaviest and most difficult of all fires to put out. For example, where a chemical engine took an hour to do the trick this foam type took a few minutes.
This has the added power of expanding over eight times its bulk in the container when released, so that if the house type is used the container need not be over ³⁄₄ gallon and you really have about six gallons of material for the fire. This does no more damage to draperies than would water. It does not injure cottons or wools and does not penetrate fabrics as many other chemicals do. If it gets on one’s clothes it is easily brushed off after it dries. On polished and varnished furniture it has no effect and is easily washed off.
SERVICE
Reliable firms will always tell you correctly what kind of an extinguisher to buy for your particular purpose. They will, too, in compliance with the Board of Underwriters’ rulings, watch the apparatus once a year and recharge if necessary. Actually they don’t always need it, but it is a wise ruling of the Board.
There are some extinguishers excellent for outdoors, motor boating, etc., but which indoors are apt to give off suffocating fumes.
There are extinguishers of large capacity on wheels for large homes and large estates. These are a great insurance against fire. They are built on narrow gage wheels for rolling on floors in the house and heavier construction for outdoor use. Many big estates use these little two wheelers, as they are fire departments in themselves.
A good quality fire hose is a mighty good assistance in a large home, too, and is becoming very widely used. Of course, there are many fires that water not only will not quench, but will spread; on the other hand, there are many little conflagrations that water immediately will kill.
Another good method, but not as efficient, for use in all conditions is the telescopic fire bucket set. Six pails are set in a container in the liquid and all one has to do in case of fire is to open the lid and each pail comes out filled. If the fire is not great and has just started and is within a few feet of you, this is all well and good, but one can hardly throw water from a pail as far as ten feet above your head, while with the extinguisher the stream is from twenty to forty feet in length. This pail system would not reach a roof, you see, which the extinguisher might.
An intimate acquaintance with the wizardly asbestos will do a lot in the home to keep the hearth fires burning in their right places. The asbestos ironing pad on the ironing board is a good resilient thing. Although not in this case primarily meant as a fire preventive, it will stop the iron from causing a big fire, even if it should burn off the top sheeting, for when it reaches the asbestos the fire will go out.
There are now some very convenient collapsible ladder escapes which are stored in a small box near the window, which makes the escape from a fire not dependent on ancestors who were tight-rope walkers.
There are regular fireproof builders who do naught else but fireproof work, but in this article we are only concerned in the home after it is built. Yet we cannot refrain from saying that the right architect and the right builder at first will reduce your fire hazard; they will adhere not only to the Underwriters’ rulings but they will build a house so that its insulation (electric), air insulation and circulation and
## partitions will be done according to safe and wise arrangement.
Don’t do foolhardy things and think you can get away with them.
Have the telephone number of the nearest fire station on a special card at your telephone, or have fire departments in your own home--extinguishers.
Familiarize the family with the operation of the nearest fire alarm box. After operating a fire alarm, stay near it to direct the fireman to the fire. Every minute is significant.
Don’t fail to notify the chief of the fire department of anything you may see that is dangerous or liable to cause fire.
We could say to-day that in the home millions are spent for fires, but hardly one cent for prevention of them. Should we not as enlightened human beings take thought and save the world some of its useless expenditure of life, limb and extravagance?
There is now on the market a new little extinguisher weighing about two pounds.
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