Chapter XXXIII
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Usually the householder isn’t asked about her heating plant at all. The contractor, architect and builder fix it all up. But--we don’t hold with this. You have to live with your heating plant, they do not--and it’s pretty much on your head that discomfort falls. Were we building we would be quite intimate with the heating end of life, in fact take a heated and intensely feverish interest in it. Therefore, after your plans, etc. are hatched, call on a heating engineer for a few suggestions, and then go to your contractor and see from whom he is to buy your boiler and what type. Then tell him you require certain things in your boiler which we have listed “here below” for your winter of content.
PRINCIPAL OF HEATING
Steam heat is, of course, heating by means of circulating steam through pipes to radiators. This is affected by a one pipe system sometimes, or a two pipe. The steam ascending from the boiler in one pipe and condensing into water falls back into boiler in same pipe. In the two system arrangement the steam ascends in one and returns in the other. The one pipe system, of course, is cheaper but takes skill in setting, as the pitch of it (the angle) must be perfection. In the radiators the steam condenses and returns in separate pipes in the two pipe system.
Hot water heating is the circulation of hot water through pipes to radiators. The heated water being lighter rises and as it cools in giving off kind heat to you, it falls back again into the boiler where it is again heated and takes another “rise” and so it circulates through its system. Therefore, in all heating systems there are two main divisions: the generation part of boiler and the circulation part of piping throughout the house. Both parts must be perfect to insure perfection of heating. The first part dependent on many factors, the second on a few more. In the hot water system an expansion tank is always placed at the top of the house in order that the overflow can be taken care of.
BOILER PURCHASE
1. Swiftly speaking--the boiler must make every pound of coal do its best, it should respond rapidly to climatic changes, it must be easily fueled, shaken, regulated, cleaned, free from repairs, rust, leaks water heat or gas and it must be easily set up in room for its use. (All good boiler makers send you “coal information.”)
Economy in fuel and labor.
Save coal yes? But economy in coal means getting out of every pound the maximum. So when you buy coal ask what its fuel value is? It ought to be about 12,500 to 14,500 B. T. U.--that is, it takes to raise 100 pounds of water 1 degree Fahrenheit, 100 British Thermal units of heat. B. T. U. is the way to measure heat units as 7 yards of satin is the way you measure goods for a dress. The best type of boiler for the home is the sectional, cast-iron type. In this the water is run through tubes and presents a large number of surfaces of water to the heat.
You must demand a boiler amply large and of the best type of tubular--where heating is most rapid, and direct in order to save fuel, in order too, that all the heat generated goes to heating the house, not in warming the flue or chimney.
2. Fuel portion. These must be _deep_ to insure enough coal at least for 8 hours of heat. So that in the morning your house will be warm and some coal left in to be joined in lawful heating to the next supply--leaving no interim of coolness which wastes the coal and supplies pneumonia. It takes more coal to reheat completely than to add heat to a heated mass of coal.
3. Boiler capacity. Find out how your boiler is rated. If its capacity only assures you 6 hours of heating; you must not expect it to do 8 or 10. Only in the best--the very best makes, do the ratings have much weight. Experience counts. You can tell approximately. But buy the boiler you don’t have to force. For forcing a boiler adds to your coal bill. Your boiler capacity must be a little _beyond_ what you actually need. 70 degrees in zero weather is the standard. A strong “Coal-ition” government is here necessary!
4. Rapid water heating essential.--
Water-ways thin enough to heat water rapidly. Quality and position of heating surface must not allow for waste of heat. 65% of heating surface should be in direct contact with heat, 35% in flue surface. Response to your dampers will show you if you have 65% of your heating surface in direct contact with flame! Go and see the best hot water boiler in your vicinity--before you buy consult your engineer and ask about others.
5. Operating must be easy “as pie.” Grates should be easily pivoted and balanced. Arrangement must prevent all accidental dumpings of fuel in fire pot. Coal so used as to not disappear through grate. One boiler employs a damper rod running to the front which enables the caretaker to open and close the smoke damper rapidly when building and this prevents gas and smoke leakage when door is open. Such a device as this makes a floor room in a cellar feasible. The boilers of some companies are so beautifully contrived and finished that they are no worse than a talking machine or upright piano in a play room. In fact better looking!
Feed doors should be wide mouthed enough to put in easily the various “meal time” supplies.
The ash pits must be big enough to hold ashes away from the grates.
6. Sectional construction desirable.--
These sections make it possible to enlarge a boiler; (2) to move it into a house built completely without tearing down the house, and obviates its sitting around in a house which is being built, a prey to all sorts of bad treatment; (3) can be taken through any cellar door; (4) can easily be taken apart.
7. Must be easily cleaned.--
All surfaces must be available, fire and flue parts largely self cleaning. The surfaces can be so made that soot peels off. Flat surfaces must be easily reached for quick cleaning, ¹⁄₄ inch soot deposit will demand 50% more coal. So get an easily cleaned boiler or no one will clean it at all!
Boilers should have conveniently placed doors into which cleaners can have access. If cleaning is easy it will be done, otherwise it will not. We made this point too, with refrigerators, etc.
8. All connections must be water tight, steam tight, gas tight. There should be no packed or gasket joints made of rubber, asbestos, paper or other washers in connecting joints, etc. This is very important. Re-packing should never be necessary with _your_ boiler--the longer it is used the tighter the sections, etc., and yet they are easily taken apart at any moment. The nipples or valves must be easily closed and everlastingly tight, yet easily opened.
9. The steam boiler for steam heat; the water boiler for water heating. No straddlers must be used.
10. The best boiler is of cast-iron. It will outlast the building; will not rust or pit. It is so built as never to need repair and it doesn’t ever seem to wear out.
This is an investment--other kinds of boilers are finally permitted to add a value to the junk pile by rusting, pitting, and other useless decadences.
11. No danger in a boiler where the fire chamber is entirely surrounded by water and steam surfaces; and when the boiler stands low and therefore well away from the joists and woodwork. Boilers are generally tested for 80 pounds pressure, but to operate them 2 pounds ought to be enough, though 1 to 5 is the usual bill-of-fare.
Steam boilers should have a relief valve--when pressure builds up to 10 or 11 pounds.
12. Should be few outside fixings--should be able to be installed without digging a pit. This, by the way, would be a good way of starting your chat with the regal contractor, “I want a simple, fine boiler, for which no pits must be dug, or brick enclosures.” The best boilers only require a brick base, for obvious reasons. There should be no alterations of building necessary, because the sectional boiler like the sectional bookcase is made to fit in anywhere. Asbestos covering of boiler often prevents waste of heat in the cellar.
13. Thermostatic valves come with some boilers to cut off automatically and “set on” heat. This conserves fuel. (See section on heat control.)
PIPING
The piping from boilers to radiators has to be done carefully. The best steam fitter is none too good. The grade or pitch of the pipes etc., the area of surface, the diameter _et al_ must be adapted to area to be heated and to the system employed--all of course, is too technical for your needs here. Only you must require care to be used here and let your contractor know you’re “on.”
THE GAS BOILER
In this boiler you get maximum comfort and maximum heat. No coal, no ashes, no bother, little cash. But this must be from the best makers. It is usually more costly to operate--but--!
WATER BACKS
Boiler makers in outstanding manufacturers make excellent water heaters in which water for laundry etc. is heated by heat which would otherwise be unused.
RADIATORS
Radiators are the translators! They are like the English writers who translate the Russian novel. The radiator alone tells us whether our hot water in the boiler is being translated into heat for our comfort.
They are either curses or benefits! But they are usually the eye-sore of the home.
In short they are a series of tubing which present a maximum of heat radiator surface. They have valves, for controlling the heat.
If you buy the right valves, your radiators will not leak, water-hammer or bang, or flood.
An air valve must let out the _air_ to permit the steam or water to fill the pipes. If it doesn’t do this, it is of no use. Varying steam pressure, flooded radiators, forced firing of boiler (which you must avoid by having a boiler with large enough capacity) are overcome with correct valves. The right valve saves fuel, because unnecessary amount of pressure is not needed to force out air, the right valve copes with dirt and dust, prevents floods, requires no adjustment. Air and steam units cannot mix, the valve releases the air. The valves must be all metal five years guarantee, and no adjustment necessary.
The radiator which is recessed in the wall has the advantage of being less visible, but unless you employ heat reflectors you will lose a lot of heat--and even with them you lose some.
Some manufacturers are doing their super-level best to build radiators which are lovely to the eye. But, again like the upright piano, they can be made but comparatively beautiful. Gratings can veil them but are gratings lovely? Then too, there is a loss of heat.
One radiator company has good-looking radiators which are very successful. Their series of columns make them able to resist high internal pressure. The internal area of the tubes in relation to the heating surface has been reduced to ¹⁄₄ of that run in general use. This not only greatly increases the pressure resistance but in reducing the internal area, the water or steam contents are likewise reduced.
There is on the market a covering for radiators which is very satisfactory.
There is more heating surface in this type too.
The water content is ¹⁄₂ the content of other radiators. This means quick and positive venting for steam, vapor, or hot water installations and provides rapid circulation, causes radiator to heat up more rapidly.
AIR VENT (STEAM HEATING)
The air vent on each main, allows the air to escape so that the heat arrives more rapidly to radiator. This of course, saves fuel.
HEAT CONTROLS
To take the heating of your home out of the area of dreams and out of the expensive realm of “feeling,” some sort of heat regulating device is recommended. It is foolish to say “Do you think it is warm enough?” to a group in the room. For no two will think alike!
Apart from this, the perfect thermostat not only tells you at what temperature is your house, not only keeps the house evenly heated, but in doing this saves you fuel, expense, illness and what not.
By simple mechanical means the thermostat opens and closes the door of the furnace as the heat needs to be lowered or increased. In this way if less heat is required, the door closes, and less coal is used etc.
Thereby another simple yet ingenious device. The thermostat can be set to do these things at any _time_ you wish it to be done. If you want the damper opened at 7 A.M., so it will be done--and you don’t need to go in your pajamas boiler-ward!
There are two or three excellent thermostats on the market and many not so good. Be sure you consult before investing. The best thermostats have no corroding, or wearing parts, look well and prove themselves thoroughbreds.
The thermostat prevents cooling off of the boiler which means starting a fire over again--which means wasted fuel. All means must be taken against such waste. Much coal is lost in uneven combustion, some coal being entirely wasted. The thermostat prevents this, by ordering a steady, definite consumption of coal.
It takes far less coal to heat hot or tempered return water than to heat cold--the thermostat prevents the cooling down entirely.
THE BUNGALOW OWNER
There is now on the market a hot water boiler which is compact and good-looking which if put into a cellarless house heats it with the efficiency of the subterranean boiler! This is done through pipes and radiators and with a maximum comfort and a minimum care.
HEAT’S INFLUENCE
It is usable in schools, cottages, etc., and bids well to civilize sections of the world which have starved for heat and consequently have been stunted in physical and mental growth. This boiler is the Ford of boilers, giving unto every man the right to be comfortable wherever he lives!
HEATING WITH OIL
Oil heaters for special rooms are made by the principal oilstove makers. These give good results but of course are not comparable to hot water heating, steam etc., plants.
ELECTRIC HEATING
As yet heating a house by electricity is too expensive and isn’t done except by small comforting heaters which heat one room at a time. These are very clean and efficient and not expensive.
HOT WATER HEATING
The problem of heating water is of serious dimensions for life without hot water to civilized man and woman is a poor struggle.
At present there are on the market, distinct from the usual hot water plant installed in properly built and equipped houses--many different and efficient heaters and boilers.
In houses where there is no hot water central plant there can be bought for moderate rates an electric heater which is attached to the faucet in tub or wash basin or sink and through its system of copper coils over which the water flows through, you can get hot water immediately! This needs be but connected to your electric light circuit--outlet or fixture.
Then there are large circulation water heaters of electrical contriving which of course has to be separately connected--as the (Wattage) heating unit is rated at about 660 watts! These heaters are of excellent construction, but in most vicinities as yet--electricity is too expensive to use thus. This is controlled from any place in the house, so you need not go down in cellar to start a hot water “anything!” In the best of these it is possible to turn on more heat or less from original source by the use of multiple heat switches.
All conductors must be insulated, these heaters should be easily installed. There is possible here hot water without ashes, gas fumes, fire risks--and desired temperature at will! It is a fine hurry device for the sometimes opened country house. In winter it is a boon.
[Illustration:
_Courtesy of National Electric Water Heater Corp._
A METHOD OF HEATING WATER BY MEANS OF A FAUCET ATTACHMENT]
Then of course there are the little electric emersion heaters. This is a heating unit which is dropped into the water basin, pitcher, tea-pot or what not and attached to electric light bulb very quickly heats your water.
GAS
The gas heater up to date has been most reliable and efficient.
There are many good gas heaters too on the market, which when you turn on the water start the fire! These are rapid and have given very good results.
There are many “boiler” heated water schemes--the water backs on gas and coal stoves etc. Then too a very efficient method is using the heat (over) not used in the sectional boiler for heating the house. This is effectively used in auxiliary boilers for heating hot water. Some firms are rightly proud of this contrivance as it is inexpensive, ample and convenient.
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