CHAPTER III

ELECTROCUTING THE WASH!

“Can’t afford,” is the first thing that is said against the installation of electrical equipment in the home. Equipment for offices is placed because it is saving of time and money and energy, but equipment for the home is often grudgingly installed just because makeshifts have been the rule for so long.

Quite true is it, that you often have a hard time to prove to your husband that the washer is a money saver, that the ironer too is a saver of money. But this can be done very easily. Let money talk and the machinery will almost install itself!

The laundry equipment, of course, is a serious thing and must be taken so. Many things should be investigated before buying, your needs known to yourself. Equipment should not, like marriage, be entered into unadvisedly, for when you spend money you must spend it as an investment and not as a mere lark. You must get your return on the investment or you have thrown it away.

If you do not know what to get, read, use shoe leather and ask those who have the thing you want. The manufacturers too are glad to talk over your needs.

REQUIREMENTS OF THE HOME LAUNDRY

A satisfactory laundry depends on:--

1. The location of room, its relation to outdoor drying and its relation to the source of supply of incoming laundry.

2. Proper floor, ceiling and walls. All joints curved, no corners.

3. Selection of equipment. The types and kinds best fitted to size of family and room.

4. The advantageous disposal of appliances purchased.

5. Thorough instruction of operators in the use of the machinery, as a good machine is useless unless the operator knows the requirements.

6. Proper care of appliances.

7. Sanitary conditions: light and ventilation. Good air is part of all good laundry work.

8. The acceptance of the worker to use cheerfully the machinery and the adequate payment of the worker.

9. Knowledge on the part of the housekeeper or mistress of the laundry procedure in order to oversee more intelligently the work done. _Women seem to think a knowledge of cookery_ necessary but _give little heed to the importance_ of the laundry.

10. A system developed and maintained for the laundering of clothes.

So much for the general principles. This chapter will not deal at all with methods of laundry work ... as is.

The only reason for the electric laundry is that it does save time, money and energy and prolongs the life of clothes to a certain degree.

In doing missionary work in the past for these things, people said: “you can lead a maid to the washer but you can’t make her wash.” They said this too about the horse and the trough, yet if he never drank he would have died of thirst! So much for that argument. You may as well say: You can lead a cook to the soup pot but you can’t make him stir!

Money talks to husbands! you can prove the saving.

Less work talks to laundresses, you can prove the saving.

GENERALLY SPEAKING

A good equipment for a house with six in the family and three to four servants is as follows:

A tiled floor. The large blue tile is interesting and less glaring for the floor than the white. Linoleum floors too are splendid and cream walls.

Washer ¹⁄₃ h. p.; solid copper lined with planished tin to prevent corrosion, white enamel ironing machine, two rolls; clothes dryer with four heating units; clothes boiler solid copper lined with planished tin with screen for holding clothes off the bottom of the boiler; combination sleeve and skirt board; two metal tables; overhead clothes dryer, copper clothes extractor; four stationary tubs; electric irons for valeting and fine work.

THE ELECTRIC IRONER

A great fuss has been made about setting the clock ahead one hour to save time and daylight, but little attention has been given the problem of saving four hours every ironing day by means of electricity and the ironing machine. A good machine, unlike the mangle which only folds and is not heated, should be able to iron at the rate of seven or eight feet per minute. In this way the ordinary ironing can be done four times as quickly as by the old method.

Many a house-wife without a maid has found ironing good sport with a good ironer and the labor saving devices have often made marriage possible--where a servant was too much of a luxury.

Roughly, the ordinary laundry takes about half a day--one hour for eight pieces for the average family of five, including all things from table linen to handkerchiefs. By hand this is about four and a half to five hours. This costs about $50 to $100 a year or $500 to $1,000 for ten years’ supply of laundered possessions.

The fuel consumed for the average ironing with coal or electricity costs about $15.60 per year: With a good machine ironing by electricity or gas will come to about one and a half cents, or a total of three cents for ironing and heating, which is a saving of twenty-seven cents a week or $14.04 yearly. In ten years a saving of $140. This is apart from the benefit to health and strength.

There is one on the market with a bench attached on which the worker can sit down to her work. As the feed is so arranged that the material turns under, because of the adjustable delivery board, one doesn’t have to rise at all, and the saving of strength and comfort is beyond calculation.

An ordinary table cloth on an ironing machine takes about three or four minutes. With a good electric iron it takes about twenty-five to thirty. Besides this the cloth is ironed evenly and the pattern, if it be embroidered, is evenly brought out. Initials come out in beautiful relief, buttons on garments do not break because of the deeply padded felt rolls which are covered with an especially-made muslin.

As an ironing machine has proven a practical, money-saving proposition, what is the best way to purchase one? First, you should have a good idea as to the breadth on the average of your sheets and table cloths, not forgetting that it is wise to have a machine wide enough to carry two table napkins at once. This saves time, saves the over-impression of the felt in one spot and also uses up the whole length of heat along the roll.

In large households, where the work is unusually heavy, often taking more than one day, a machine about 48″ or 56″ is used for 2¹⁄₂-3 yards of linen. These rolls should be padded, the heavier the better, to take care of heavily embroidered initials.

Many persons think that an ironing machine is a mangle limited to ironing only the coarser flat work such as sheets, towels, etc. It is, however, not a mangle but an ironer and will iron practically everything except the more fancy shirt waists and elaborate dresses. It will iron to the entire satisfaction kitchen aprons, nightgowns, pajamas, underwear, children’s play clothes, hosiery, men’s negligee and silk shirts, and iron, better than an expert laundress can do by hand, tablecloths, napkins and centerpieces, doilies, dresser scarfs, blankets, sheets, bed spreads, pillow cases, towels and handkerchiefs. It is a great help to curtains, as they will hang perfectly after ironing. Trousers may also be pressed in such a machine.

The ironing machines on the market claim certain best points. One that a moveable shoe (the heated part under which the garment is passed) is good because you can remove starchy accumulations and clean it easily. Some say that the stationary shoe is the best because the ironing cannot help being done evenly. You will have to pick your machine.

In another machine the manufacturers use their patented gas burner of drilled holes and their air mixture as a talking point to afford a gas saving. Another claims that oiling is necessary only every six months.

The feed board is a requisite part which must be perfect. Lowering the feed board removes the roll from contact with the ironing surface in some machines. This is the same principle as putting the hand iron on the rest. At the same time the motion of the roll is automatically stopped, so that the goods can be withdrawn at any time. It also enables one to lay a folded piece or a number of them on and over the roll, and it insures a straight start at all times. On single or double thicknesses of goods the feed-board need not be lowered, as these will start in readily. This patented feature means safety to the operator and safety to the goods being ironed. The feed-board is the flat piece of board running the length of the machine over which the linen passes.

Some machines are advertised as having all gears enclosed and protected. This, of course, makes operation safer.

The swinging arms, two generally, provided for hanging linen on, are a convenient addition.

AN EXTRAORDINARY ADVANCE

The above is the usual list of machines made to-day but there is an unusual one now on the market. This one works entirely by electricity, it can be heated by gas or electricity. There are no levers to handle, no treadles to tread. It works completely by a switch and dial. The little finger is sufficient only to do the job if all your other fingers were disabled!

It is a very convenient size for family use and has been in use now long enough to assure perfection of adaptability for the home.

In case this all-electric machine has a blow out, and to protect the clothes from burning on the shoe there is simple provision to guard against this and all ills. The shoe by a button works back and forth if necessary, and taken altogether it is a beautiful mechanism.

A few excellent machines, too, have the two rollers instead of one. This is supposed to hold material firmer and work more expeditiously.

GOOD POINTS

In some cases the gas burner and electric heater are divided in the center so that the burner can be used on warm work without scorching the unused part of the roll.

The machines should be so made that they are comparatively easy to clean.

Levers are not quite as good as the automatic, adjustable feed-board, which insures ease of control. It is worked by raising and lowering. This brings the roll in contact with the ironing surface, the same principle as a hand iron is brought to and from its rest. The action also stops and starts the rotation of the roller. In other words, it is automatic and there is no possibility of the operator becoming confused at a critical moment. There are no levers to pull or switches to turn; the control is instinctive and always under the hands of the operator for instant use. Moreover, you can lay your work over the roll while idle, insuring a straight edge and start the work again at your convenience.

Ironing on these machines is done on the same principle as with a flat iron, only instead of passing the iron over the goods, the goods are moved against a stationary iron.

POWER AND FUEL

Gas, gasoline and electricity are the fuels used to heat the machines. Electricity and hand-power turn them.

Motors come from ¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄ horse power depending on the size of the machine. When buying one, be sure to tell agent whether you have Alternating Current (A. C.) or Direct Current (D. C.) and what voltage you have. Motors are generally supplied 110, 220 volts D. C. and 60 Cycle 110, or 220 volts A. C. (We are not considering here the belt driven larger sizes.)

About ⁷⁄₈ of a pint of gasoline is used on the smaller size machine. Sometimes the amount increases to 1¹⁄₂ pints; from about 17 to 33 cubic feet of gas. In the case of electricity as fuel for high heat, 2.5 to 6 kilowatts are used. For medium 1.7 to 4. For low .85 to 2.

The current driving the machine is from 180 to 320 watts per hour.

SIZE

The household models come in 46″, 42″, 37″, 32″ actual ironing widths. The 46″ and 42″ seem to be popular with some manufacturers. The former is for 2¹⁄₂ yards or 90″ wide and 22″ small linen, and the latter for 2¹⁄₄ yards or 81″ wide or 20″ small linen. The 37″ for 2 yards-wide linen. Size 32″ takes up actually about 42″ × 26″ of floor space, the 37″--47″ × 26″, the 46″--58″ × 25″, etc. There is one ironing machine on the market that is separate from its base so that it can be set up in an apartment on the top of a radiator or on a 14″ shelf. This answers the wants of the “flat dweller.”

It is an interesting fact that one agent in New York is shipping 1000 ironing machines daily, many of which go to Boston. This is due to the low rate of electricity that prevails in that city. And here’s a point:--even in some vicinities where the rate is low, where two lines only supply a whole state with electricity, it is not advisable to use electricity for machines. You must have a good current, even service, etc., to make it worth while.

HOW TO OPERATE

You light the burners on these machines as you light the gas, turn the electric switch and iron. It is quite simple and safe. Many of the machines have a pilot light to tell when the current (electric) is on or off. To heat by electricity all you do is to attach the cord to the ordinary wall socket.

A hand-power machine is driven by turning a handle. Thirty-five turns a minute is the right speed. It can be converted any time into a belt-driven machine and attached to the washing machine or anything else that goes by motor.

The saving in health of operator whether wife or servant and the saving of the life of linens, etc., is beyond computation.

The best type of ironer has (1) the stationary ironing shoe under which the felt padded cylinder revolves. This insures evenly distributed heat and avoids the chance of scorching clothes.

In some machines this shoe can be set back in case of accident and prevents the clothes on roller from being burnt. (2) Feed board instead of lever. This gives more rapid control and is more responsive to the touch. (3) Electric switch instead of lever or feed board.

A FEW PERTINENT QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

How long would it take to iron a table cloth by the machine?

About three or four minutes in comparison to twenty-five or thirty by the expert laundress using an electric iron. A saving in current and time.

What about handsome linens with heavy initials?

“The pad on the roller should be plenty soft enough to imbed not only the initials but carry buttons and not break them!”

“What things can’t you iron with it?”

“Only fancy waists and skirts. Laces can be beautifully done and, of course, all the table and bed linens, trousers, etc., etc., etc.”

“How big are these machines?”

“They come in four different sizes, but the ordinary home can use the 46-inch cylinder or at least as wide as your widest linen to the best advantage. That enables fewer folds and more ironing lay-out on roll, enabling you to put a few napkins on the roll at the same time instead of one.”

THE WASHING MACHINE

The variety of washing machines on the market to-day are scheduled in three figures.

The following will give you an idea of the better known types from which to weed out yours.

_A. Types_

1. Rotary or cylinder.

In which the wash is put into a perforated cylinder which revolves through the soapy water.

2. Oscillating.

In which the wash is put into the machine and is washed by being shaken back and forth with enough friction and motion to clean clothes thoroughly. The bottoms of these machines are corrugated or in some shape to offer resistance and cause the necessary friction.

3. Vacuum.

In which the clothes are put into machine and are washed by the operation of vacuum or suction cups raised up and down, drawing the water through clothes.

4. Dolly.

In which clothes are washed by the semi-rotating dolly or device which looks like a milking stool.

5. Combination of these types such as the Dolly and Disc Twin tubs with a mechanism in each, washers with a bench upon which to place wash basket, etc., oscillating cylinder as well as rotating. As to wringers on these machines, they are stationary, swinging or sliding.

The latest type is the alternating. Here the drum rotates, and is divided into two compartments by a perforated plate. The clothing to be washed is divided equally between the two compartments, and the mechanical action of the machine produces alternately the action of the cylinder, oscillating and the vacuum method.

6. A good combination in cylinder, oscillating and vacuum type, has just been added to the market.

7. Balance drum, in which the clothes are put in a drum and it shakes on a pivot.

8. Cylinder type worked by water force--for hotel room use.

9. Vacuum and cylinder types for tub use run by electricity--for houses too small in which to bring a washing machine.

_B. General Requirements of Washers_

1. All parts which might tear clothes should be covered.

2. All washers, if not stationary, should be equipped with swinging reversible wringer.

3. Hard wood outside or copper or some hard metal and to prevent corrosion in the case of copper exterior, planished tin interiors are the best.

4. Durability.

5. Ease and simplicity of operation.

[Illustration:

_Courtesy of Scientific Heater Co._

WET DAYS CAN BE DRY DAYS, NO MATTER WHAT THE LAW MAY BE, WITH THE INDOOR DRYER]

6. Minimum parts to take out and clean.

7. Less wear and tear on clothes.

8. Automatic release on wringer in case finger is caught.

9. All interiors smooth, non-absorbent of soil or odors.

10. Wash and wring at same time or separately.

Now you have the requirements, you can take your choice after you have gone about comparing and examining all the different types.

DRYERS

“What about the dryers?”

They are one of the things that you could get along without if you wanted to waste time in drying. They are expensive to buy, but you are never held up by weather. They dry clothes a good color and you do not miss the sun. They are heated by their own heat, electric or gas, or can be attached to the coal stove and get the overflow heat. They are made to allow no heat to escape even when extended. (See illustration.)

Up until late years women not convicts have been time servers. But long before the vote was women’s, there was a mighty revolt and women decided it became them better to be time savers and not time servers.

For this reason in gallant fashion manufacturers have rushed to fill the needs of women in their homes and from soaps to ironing machines have they labored and not in vain.

For example, in ancient days if it rained on Monday (then called Moan day) or was Monday humid, the work either had to be given up because drying was impossible or the whole household work had to be dislocated by the transference of wash day to a more sunny occasion, to a day when drying was not a theory but an inevitable accomplishment.

No longer need we say, “If at first you can’t succeed, dry, dry again.” For the heated air dryer has come for the laundry of the private home as well as for the apartment cellar, and drying has become an indoor sport rather than an outdoor hazard.

These dryers are merely galvanized metal of from two to ten compartments from 46″ to 53″ wide and about 5′ high. The compartments pull out as easily as a watch stem and each drying rack has six drying rods 66″ long or a total of 33′ of rack. Each rack is about 10″ wide. The ordinary length of the rack is 5′ 10″ and the distance from the back of the cabinet to the end of the racks is about 11′ 8″. When the cabinet is closed the track which protrudes overhead can be used to hang clothes on. The overhead track is far more convenient than the floor wheels upon which some racks pull out, as the floor, should it be uneven, will prevent ease of operation of the racks and annoyance will ensue. Single dryers can be bought with two racks only 23″ or so wide for smaller rooms.

These cabinets can be sunk flush in the wall and take up no more room if the building is so constructed or lie against or at right angles to the wall. The heat does not permeate the room in well-made dryers. Any stove used in the laundry should not be in connection with the dryer.

The dryer which really does its work should:

1. Not overheat clothes.

2. Not sweat them.

3. Not turn them yellow.

4. Thoroughly ventilate them.

5. Remove all odors.

6. Dry them rapidly.

7. Make them easy to iron.

THEORY AND PRACTICE

It has been imagined that sun and wind alone dry clothes but the fact is that air is the drying medium and therefore the best dryers provide a good circulation of air plus heat. Dry air has a tremendous love for moisture and eats it up as a blotter eats up ink. The warmer the air the more moisture it will hug. This would seem enough, just to bake the clothes, but baking does not remove odors and does render them yellow; they are unventilated and smell like the laundry, so people are prone to say “Sun drying or nothing.”

However, the best dryers provide for circulation of air. At its best the air changes from 250 to 300 times an hour. The air must change, for after one lot of air holds all the moisture it can, it cannot take any more from the clothes, and new arid air must be substituted for that which is moisture-fed. This is accomplished by a moist air exhaust in the newer dryers, which are larger than the older types. The result is white, odorless, air-swept clothing.

The stream of air is usually accomplished by the use of ordinary chimney draft assisted by the warm products of heating from the heater. The hot air products of combustion pass through a tapered nozzle into the moist air exhaust pipe, and by the speed a suction is created which helps to pull the moist air out of the cabinet and up the chimney.

When you buy a dryer see to it that the exhaust pipe is large so that you will have wind and heat instead of just heat. Air circulation is what you are really buying. See that you get it.

SUPERFICIAL POINTS

All parts upon which clothes hang should be non-rusting.

The racks must pull out without any expenditure of strength and must run quietly.

Racks must be within the reach of the average sized woman, to avoid stretching.

The heating burner must be simple and easily reached so that you can tell at a glance how much heat you have turned on.

There must be ample screening so that should a garment fall it cannot possibly get scorched.

The finish of these dryers must be smooth, without protuberances which could in any case tear the garments to be dried.

Dryers are best heated with gas, electricity or kerosene. Care must be given to get the best kerosene burner as they are troublesome when not perfection.

Dryers are simple to operate, and you are saved: (1) tugging clothes to roof or yard; (2) putting up a wash-line; (3) fastening clothes and tearing them with clothes-pins; (4) carrying heavy baskets anywhere; (5) sprinkling and rolling clothes, because you keep them drying only long enough to be ready to iron; (6) the wear and tear from the exposure to dust, sunburn, fading, snow and other outdoor contaminations.

ELECTRICITY OR NONE

A very good little dryer, simple as a broiler, is the over-head slatted dryer, which, on a pulley, is spread with clothes and pulled up to the ceiling where the clothes dry by the risen heat of the room.

In a small kitchen where the washing and cooking is done, it is a real boon, and in the laundry, too, it is a genuine convenience.

The rack is about 32″ to 64″, and on the ceiling it is comfortable and useful and out of the way. It comes in two sizes.

Your clothes go directly from the wringer to the rack as in the big dryers, you obviate unnecessary handling, clothes-pin destruction, etc.

It can be pulled down to your own level and hitched on a wall pin so as to make it reliably firm while you load it.

TABLES AND SHELVES

Shelves in a laundry are very much more useful than a quarter of a dozen tables or to buy two or three tables for laundries and abandon them for needed foot room, yet long for some room to put things on.

The steel unit of shelves is a very convenient way out. By using a continuous running shelf, like an amplified plate rail, any place in the laundry can be a handy one for placing a bit of soap, a clothes-pin, washing powder, clothing waiting for starching, or any other thing. Steps could be saved and wit conserved.

Tables are a necessity, especially the large 7′ table or smaller. The wooden one for a laundry is quite useful and so also is the all-metal table. But too many tables spoil the temper, and the shelf is a comfort.

They should be from 31 to 38 inches high, if possible adjustable. The tops are most satisfactory in a non-porous porcelain or porcelain enamel. Some people like hard wood or metal.

IRONING BOARDS

There are many varieties of ironing boards on the market. Some fold back against the wall and some do not. Some fold back in self closets against the wall. Some are adjustable to different heights, others are not. They come in various sizes and finishes and do away with the falling and slipping ironing board which has caused so many useless burns.

In large houses the valets have tables such as you can purchase with sleeve boards, swinging bodyguard, supply cabinet for cleaning fluids and brushes, and with electric iron equipment, snap switches and automatic signal pilot lamps for each iron. These tables are made of seasoned pine painted white. Legs, underbody, cabinet, brackets and cord supporters are in silver bronze paint. The boards are covered with the best quality felt. Unbleached muslin makes a good covering for any ironing board and is generally used.

The ironing board is indispensable for fancy things, even when the ironing machine is regularly used.

A BURNING SHAME

When un-electric irons are used, there should be an ample supply of iron holders. If your irons are not of the removable insulated handle type, iron holders of ticking or soft bits of carpet can be used. This sounds very elementary, but many scorchings would not have taken place had the laundress not rushed to get through to save the hurting hand.

This is truly a burning shame if anything could so be called. It is possible, too, to get a thin bit of asbestos encased in a bit of ticking and so protect the laundress from discomfort and your clothing from destruction.

These iron holders could be made by the children of the house who are always looking for something that they can make to give to Mother, Auntie or Grandma.

THE LAUNDRY CHUTE

Much time could be saved in the laundry if whenever it were possible a chute could be built into which clothes can be thrown and go directly to the laundry where is situated a basket or a terminal closet to receive them. Here stuffing the dumb waiter is obviated, also carrying the clothes in baskets down the lift or just using the ugly clothes hamper in dressing room or bath room. Here is a more or less suggestive plan of arrangement.

ARRANGEMENT

_Assuring less expenditure in labor and money._

1. Soiled linen chute in one corner of the room.

2. A table near to sort laundry before washing.

3. Tubs in center of the room to be accessible.

4. After clothes are washed and blued they can be partially dried in dryer and ironed.

5. Then a table on which to place clothes to be ironed.

6. Ironer next in the best light possible and arranged away from wall to permit two people working at it, if necessary.

7. Skirt and sleeve board next.

8. After which another skirt and sleeve board or a valet table or another plain table.

Some people keep a sewing table in the laundry but it is easier to have the sewing done in the sewing room and away from the laundry work. Because the different maids might much better stay in their own territory and failing maids it’s easier to keep your threads any place but _in_ a laundry.

FLAT IRONS

Because there are some dainty things that cannot be put through a machine, electric flatirons are absolutely indispensable in a laundry. For that reason there are many kinds on the market. They are usually made from 2¹⁄₂ ℔s. to 15 ℔s. Most have but one heat, but some have three heats. A traveler will be pleased with the adjustable 3 lb. iron which has a voltage adjustment making it practical with 220 or 110 voltage.

SOAPS AND POWDERS

With the best washing machines you get bad results if you do not use good soaps or cleaning powders.

There is a very good powder on the market which not only cleans the clothes well, and leaves no greasy residue, but is really not a soap at all. It combines rapidly with water, and makes a fine suds and cleans very rapidly.

For the most part to-day, yellow soaps and white soaps as cleaners are on a par but are not as good for laundry purposes, since the resin in the yellow soap combines unhappily with your clothes.

White soaps are best, if you want good results.

Another delightful new thing on the market is the starch which does not starch but which imparts a gloss and resistance without a stiffness. This will come as a boon to many women who do not want their lingeries stiff but do want it to look as a starched bit of linen does. In the same way as starch this composition permits the lingerie to stand up longer under use.

The foregoing is just a group of ideas in concrete form to add to the comfort of laundry days. They can be passed on to friends as ideas, even ideals, or as practical, concrete gifts.

All three or any would be acceptable to the thinking housekeeper who wants one hundred and one things done better than a man can do one thing well. So all aids in the home are worth not only considering but investigating with eye and ear as well as heart and soul.

TO AVOID BLOW-OUTS

Perhaps more money is wasted on blow-outs in homes that utilize electricity than any other cause. If you follow the rules, illustrated here and first published by the Edison Company, not only will you save expense in the home, but you will save the Fire Department, which is constantly called upon to save lives and property because of unnecessary fires due to carelessness (Not to electricity) in handling flat irons.

The cardinal principle for the use of all electrical appliances is this: When you are not continuously using any device, shut off the current. To do this, entirely disconnect the flatiron, curling iron or whatever the device may be, by pulling out the plug. Do not be content with turning off the current at the lamp socket. It is absolutely necessary that the current be completely cut off when the iron is not in constant use. Sometimes the current has been inadvertently turned on when the flatiron has been left connected at the lamp socket, and material has been badly scorched or even more serious damage has resulted. An electric coil for heating water has caused fire when carelessly left near inflammable material. In like manner a connected curling iron when heedlessly placed on a bureau scarf has also caused damage. Remember the invariable rule for the use of all electrical appliances--pull out the plug to disconnect when not using.

L’ENVOIE

Go to the best dealer.

Buy the best only; it reduces later costs.

Simplicity, safety and serviceability necessary.

Avoid machinery with extra parts to be cleaned or upon which injury to attendant or clothes can be perpetrated.

Don’t buy until you are perfectly sure by numerous comparisons and other experience what are the best types of machinery to install. Be sure to apply the three S tests: Service, Safety, Simplicity.

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