CHAPTER IX

THE _MAGICIENNE_

[Sidenote: 1832. March.]

Trincomalee is a beautiful and extensive harbour, which had been taken and retaken by the Dutch and ourselves several times during the last century, and at the Peace of Amiens, in 1802, was ceded to England.

In 1702 many pretty naval actions were fought off the island, in which our neighbours appear to have got the worst. In the centre of the harbour is Sober Island, about which our liberty men delighted to roam. Jack had discovered sundry little secret dells, in which, if after sunset you planted a rupee, on the following morning would find it had grown into a bottle of samshoo! The island belonged, I believe, by purchase to Commander Henry Ellis.

Off the dockyard was a useful old hulk, the _Arrogant_, on board which Divine service was held on the Sabbath Day; and after dinner came “Sober Island,” with its usual results.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

The _Southampton_, 52, arrived. We saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral Sir E. W. Owen, K.C.B.

[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]

The dark owner of a small farm brought a report of an invasion by elephants on his premises, destroying a plantation of cocoanuts, yam, and fruit, and if gentlemen sportsmen liked to come at night he was ready to show the way. This was indeed a chance. There was no difficulty in getting up a night picnic. Climate perfection--coolies willing.

Towards midnight it came over a thick mist. Curries and songs expended. Our guide professed to scent Gadjá, and proposed an advance.

We were led into a low jungle bordering a pâdi-field, but so dark you could scarcely see your hand. However, we could hear there was something alive, and my attention was called to a darker patch, into which we were directed to fire. There was a groan and a splash. It was too dark to follow, and our guide proposed the search should be postponed until after breakfast.

When I got back I found myself invited to dine with the Admiral, who had been informed of my night picnic. The dinner was a grand affair, the Admiral’s band, ladies of officials, and all the Captains present.

On retiring from the table, as we sat pretending to enjoy the music, the Secretary brought a letter to the Admiral, written in Tamil characters. Interpretation as follows:

“TO HIS EXCELLENCY’S REAR-ADMIRAL, SIR E. W. OWEN, K.C.B., COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY’S NAVY AND EAST INDIA’S SEAS.

“_The Humble Petition of Conanyaga Modr Tillenadin_

“MOST HUMBLY SHEWETH,

“That the petitioner most humbly and submissively begs leave to acquaint Your Excellency that on Thursday, March 15, 1832, about ten o’clock at night, three gentlemen of the ship _Magicienne_ came hunting in the China village, and adjoining a pâdi-field the petitioner’s buffaloes were grazing, the buffaloes never being accustomed to be confined or be tied up to a stick in the night-time. The said gentlemen shot petitioner’s three buffaloes, which died that night. Two measures of milk daily was received from one. One she-buffalo was big, and another has a calf of one month old, which is alive now, but will not live long for want of the mother.

“Therefore petitioner most submissively prays Your Excellency will be graciously pleased to favour the petitioner by having justice done to him. The cattle valued is the lowest at the sum of six pounds.

“For which act of favouring the petitioner is in duty bound.

“(Signed)

“TRINCOMALEE, “_March 16, 1832_.”

I had the account settled, but my firm belief is that the writer of the petition and our guide were one and the same person.

[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]

Arrived _Comet_, 18, Commander A. A. Sandilands. _Imogene_, 28, Captain Price Blackwood.

[Sidenote: April 12.]

_Alligator_, 28, Captain G. R. Lambert.

[Sidenote: April 17.]

My first night’s supper at Holyoake’s quarters was an introduction to these kind Highlanders. Captain Forbes appeared to have had several elephant-shooting parties. Holyoake had been in more than one, with some narrow escapes. But now he was all for smaller game.

Snipe-shooting in India is an attractive sport, but after sunrise birds lie closer, while you are the less inclined to retire to your comfortable rest-house.

As the ground was distant seventeen miles, eleven of which lay through dense jungle, we were off before daylight, and arrived in good time, enjoying such sport as is found nowhere except in the Far East, returning to a breakfast of curry and rice, tobacco, etc.

“Sport” not being in my Captain’s dictionary, it was necessary to renew my leave, which, being confined to four-and-twenty hours, obliged me to return to the ship.

Having observed as we came fresh tracks of elephants, I made anxious inquiries as to what I should do if I came across one. My anxiety was laughed at. I was assured that the only danger lay in meeting a male detached from the herd.

I had advanced some four miles in the jungle, which was anything but a straight path, when my horse began to snort and show signs of uneasiness. On entering the next bend, I saw, to my horror, a huge elephant blocking the way.

Remembering instructions, I held up my arms and bellowed out, which drew attention. He put out his trunk, as if to smell what I was, and trumpeted. The sound pierced through me. He flapped his ears, which looked like barn-doors, and rushed at me. My horse sprang round in the narrow jungle-path. The elephant was then close, and nothing but my hat coming off, which he stopped to examine, gave me a start.

The ground was uneven, being, in fact, the dried-up bed of a mountain stream. As I had to avoid obstacles at times, the brute gained on me, I meanwhile suffering the torture of fright. After some four miles, coming to the edge of a lake, which I had passed in the morning, I observed that the elephant had stopped.

[Illustration: _An Elephant in Chase._]

My horse was not fit for many yards further, and the heat of the sun reminded me I had no hat. I pulled up to have a look at my enemy, who placed himself on the edge of the jungle I had just cleared. I profited by this to make a head-covering of my pocket-handkerchief, then carefully examined the monster, feeling I had the advantage of level ground. With his trunk he threw up an amount of dust and dirt, which descended on his back, driving away clouds of flies. One would have thought his hide impervious to such tiny foes.

I continued my retreat, with such speed and dignity as my poor horse was capable of, to the rest-house. I found my companions luxuriating in sleep and tobacco. Exhausted by my adventure, I threw myself into a chair and sang out “Grog!” One of my friends remarked:

“Why, it’s Keppel back again!”

I had strength enough to exclaim I had seen an elephant, which caused a roar of laughter. They declared I must have come across a rogue detached from the herd.

Soon refreshed, I stated that I must start again for the harbour. The good Adjutant, John Edward Bull, kindly lent me his horse. I described the place where I had left the elephant, and as they did not think he would have moved far, my friends decided to try a shot at him. Unfortunately, on examining the ammunition, they found themselves prepared for snipe only.

I then asked for a convoy. The whole party turned out, and two coolies were told off to keep a hundred yards in advance.

We found the elephant where I left him. He charged the coolies, who plunged into the lake, re-landing in the jungle; the elephant disappeared. The party returned to the rest-house, while I went on my way.

Before sighting the advance, my nerves got another shock. I heard a crash through the jungle. It was no use retreating. A glimpse of daylight broke from above, showing a troop of a thousand monkeys, jumping in a westerly direction along the upper branches of the jungle bushes. On discerning me chattering increased.

A boat, nearer the _Magicienne_ than the dockyard, was waiting for me.

Back in my cabin, I felt how much I needed rest and quiet.

[Sidenote: April 21.]

Sailed with _Crocodile_, but, to keep company with our senior while off the wind, we had to lower topsails on the cap.

[Sidenote: April 24.]

We arrived at Madras Roads.

Madras is an open roadstead, safe only during the westerly monsoon. Surf always breaking on the beach. Communication with the shore only by native boats, called _masúlas_. These curious boats are built of mango-wood, caulked with straw and sewn together with cocoanut fibre. Their length is about thirty feet, by ten broad, with a depth of seven or eight feet. They are propelled by oars with round, flat ends. The crew consists of a dozen natives and a _tindal_, who steers, and leads the song, which, discordant though it is, is a help in the movement of the boat; the time depends on the rate of the surf.

Letters, called _chits_, are conveyed by naked natives in catamarans--three misshapen logs lashed together by _rôtans_, and propelled through, not over, the waves. Sharks, too, were in close attendance--apparently for company only.

The changes of monsoon, in May and October, are often accompanied by hurricanes.

I always thought the East Indies the pleasantest of stations while governed by the good old John Company. Their liberality was unbounded. Such a thing as an hotel or lodging-house was not to be found. On your landing at either of the Presidencies, coolies were in waiting, and there was almost a fight between the _daibashes_ as to who should get possession of your portmanteau; while yourself was carried off in a palanquin on the shoulders of four dark coolies, who bore you in triumph to their master’s house.

Such were our princely merchants. The liberality of John Company exceeded everything. Not only was a commissioned officer’s pay doubled--it was called _batta_--but the Company kept houses furnished at all stations to which a man-of-war could go. Servants, plate, and linen were found. The cooking, too! Such curries as I had never even dreamed of!

Tiffin appeared to be the meal of the day, in which the gentler sex joined. Bass’s pale ale, and claret, cooled by saltpetre, were the rival drinks.

Perry, Dare and Co. were the Navy agents, who were second to none in hospitality.

News had reached Madras of fresh disturbances at Nanning, on the Malay Peninsula. We sailed.

[Sidenote: May 14.]

Anchored at Nancowry Harbour, one of the Nicobar Group, sailing following day.

[Sidenote: May 19.]

Arrived at Penang; remained only long enough to take in stores and freight for service. Penang was notorious at this time for fever, which attacked the young men most severely: few under thirty recovered.

[Sidenote: June 6.]

We anchored off Malacca, some distance from the shore, owing to the shallowness of the water, which caused an unpleasant rolling motion.

The authorities sat in council on our arrival. John Company had had trouble with different chiefs. In 1830 the Rajah of Nanning, Dool Sayd, was in rebellion, in which he was abetted by neighbouring petty chiefs. He had then seized territory adjoining our settlement of Malacca.

The following year the Company despatched a force of 5000 men. It was not successful, and they had to retire on Malacca, leaving two six-pounder brass guns in the jungle.

The province of Nanning, distant from the coast, was only reached by river. Authorities decided that, while the troops prepared to advance by land, our boats were to blockade the rivers Lingghi, Moowar, and Kissang, embracing some sixty miles of coast.

Here is the copy of my first order:

“By James Hanway Plumridge, Esq. Capt. of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_, and Senior Officer, Malacca.

The Government having resolved upon the blockading the rivers Lingy, Moowar, and Kissang, and issued proclamation thereof.

You are hereby required and directed after visiting the boats named in the margin and taking care to see they are provided with arms, ammunition, stores, and provisions for eight days for their several crews, to proceed to the entrance of the Moowar river and there remain till further orders.

Should boats persist in endeavouring to force their way down, or do not return without gunshot, you will detain them, landing their guns on shore except the person in charge, and send their boats to Malacca. All proas and boats are in the first instance to be warned off, and informed the river is under blockade both ways; and it is my direction that you use all the diligence and means in your power to keep the said river in a complete and effectual state of blockade.

I rely on your forbearance and vigilance in the execution of these duties, and have little doubt you will acquit yourself as much to my satisfaction as when last on detached service.

Given under my hand on board His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_ at Malacca this 10th day of June 1832.

(Signed) HANWAY PLUMRIDGE, Capt.

To Lieutenant the Honble. Henry Keppel, of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_.”

I felt much interest in this small expedition. My force consisted of the _Diamond_, hired schooner, mounting four noisy brass guns; she also carried a four-oared gig for my particular use. Besides this, there was a schooner-rigged pinnace and seven man-of-war boats. We were attended from Malacca by a mixture of Dutch, Portuguese, and Malays, in various floating craft.

A larger river, the Lingghi, to the eastward, was commanded by Hutton. The line of coast blockaded extended sixty miles. Before taking up my blockading position, we had a ceremonious visit to pay the chief whose rivers we were about to occupy.

The Rajah of Moowar was a loyal adherent of the Government, but he was without the power to prevent the munitions of war passing into the Nanning territory.

From the ship, although some way off, I was enabled to obtain assistance to make a suitable display on presenting the official letter, as well as the sword which had been added.

The palace, like most Malay buildings, projected into the water, where it is supported on piles, and shaded by _kadjangs_. The blockading fleet was anchored opposite, in line. A Malay royal salute consists of 3 guns only, but unluckily there is no limit to the number of salutes.

The senior mid, Mr. D. B. Bedford, an intelligent youth, undertook the office of master of ceremonies, and appointed himself to carry the colours, while I was of too great importance to do any more than I could help! We landed from a procession of boats: a Marine officer, Lieutenant Ford, and myself bringing up the rear.

A high-caste Malay is never in a hurry. The important part of the ceremony, to them, consisted in the length of time they could keep us waiting. _I_ considered myself second only to the Rajah in importance; but it was evident that I was eclipsed by Lieutenant Ford, of the Royal Marines, in his red coat and tall feather.

After a time, by a side-opening, there appeared a yellow-silk canopy supported on poles, which sheltered His Highness. He wore a red-and-green handkerchief round his head, with a corner sticking up. His legs well through dark-red trousers, a Highland-looking sarong, and a beautiful gold-embroidered _kris_ inlaid with precious stones, stuck in his waist.

After shaking of hands and a palaver through interpreters, the letter was presented, amid the cheers of the _fleet_! and salutes from the brass guns. The same was repeated when the sword was delivered. Coffee and sweetmeats were carried by ladies of the harem.

[Illustration: _A Royal Salute._]

Here my assistants showed symptoms of weariness. I noticed that the Rajah flinched as each gun went off. Wanting to accelerate the departure of the kind assistance I had received from the ship, which was over twenty miles off, I ordered another salute to be fired. The good Rajah became very anxious that I should be informed that the reply to the letter would be forwarded without delay to the “General of the Honourable Company” at Malacca. As I saw he began to look really ill, I let him off the last salute, and thus concluded the ceremony.

My friends from the _Magicienne_ came on board the _Diamond_, where I had prepared a blow-out of chickens boiled in pea-soup and onions, to be washed down by Bass’s pale ale, to which they did ample justice. They then departed, leaving me alone in my glory.

Presentation of the letter and sword to the Rajah over, and my assistants from the ship not in sight, I arranged my small fleet. By a convenient bend of the river, we could move to a position out of sight of the palace. Bedford in pinnace, and two native boats, armed, carrying eight men each, had to blockade the mouth of the Kissang, keeping a good look-out for signals.

The _Diamond_ lay nearer the western side of the Moowar, with a war-boat at a respectable distance ahead and another astern of her. The other seven boats formed a line nearer the eastern shore, just within hail of one another, leaving an open space in the middle of the river for prizes. To each boat was attached a canoe, which of course was the “Captain’s gig.” The whole was arranged in less than an hour, when I was glad to get back to the _Diamond_.

I had an interpreter who likewise played the fiddle, a good native curry cook, my gig’s crew and three Royal Marines for sentries, a corporal who did officer. The company of midshipmen commanding boats could be obtained by signal.

Quiet as the jungle was by day, with its savage inhabitants, we were little prepared for their midnight carousals, when they came to wash their mouths out. The first roar sounded so loud, while I was dreaming, that I fancied my _Diamond_ had been carried by boarding, and that my reign was over, ere it had well begun.

The following day the Rajah granted an audience. I took my coxswain and interpreter only. Nothing could have been nicer or more gentlemanlike. He was evidently a keen sportsman, but a spear more to his hand than a double barrel. He informed me that the jungle contained elephants, a few of them white; tigers and black panthers, buffaloes and wild cattle (_Bos gaurus_), large Samba deer, wild-pig, small bears, besides a variety of monkeys.

He presented me with a handsome spear, seven feet long. Below the blade there was a foot of wrought gold, very handsome; and then human hair, reddish, but whether natural or dyed I could not tell. By virtue of this royal spear I could demand anything. I have it now. Orders had already been given that nothing should be received without payment in full.

Being fond of a stroll with gun, coxswain carrying ammunition, I went for a short distance into the jungle. Observing on the top branch of a high tree,--some ninety feet from the ground, a round-looking lump, I fired. It fell; on my running up, a little monkey jumped from under. A large Brahmin kite, at a stoop, seized the child. A piece of wood at hand enabled me to throw near enough to cause the kite to drop it. The poor little thing ran for protection to the murderer of its mother. It was the first monkey I ever shot; needless to say, it was the last.

On board, we found it was badly hurt. The kite’s talons had penetrated the skin; the wounds were dressed, and it was made over to the care of a kind mid, by name Glynn. But where the claws had penetrated maggots bred: rum would not destroy them; it was thought kinder to let the little thing get tipsy on sugar and rum, and when in a state of insensibility commit the little body to the deep.

The Rajah soon found out that I was fond of sport. He now took me in his state boat to a spot up the river towards the Rumbau range, which heads the Moowar.

On landing, he led me to an opening, and, seated on a fallen tree, we saw at least five hundred elephants with young ones at foot, passing quietly through the low jungle, the elders breaking off the tender green shoots, and so feeding their young. The whole mass moved in a slow and solemn manner. The males were excluded. A sight that I shall never forget!

[Illustration: _Elephants with Young at Foot, Moowar Valley._]

Dark quickly follows sunset.

Wishing to test the alertness observed on board my puny fleet, I sent secretly, beyond the bend of the river, a Malay with a cocoanut-oil lamp, to be placed with lighted wick so as to float down close to the bushes. The stream was running fresh.

[Sidenote: July.]

About 9 P.M. heard the first hail; the second was followed by the report of a musket, and so repeated down the line. My imaginary enemy floated out to sea, the Chief having made no signal to chase. Soon all was quiet until the denizens of the jungle announced their thirst.

One morning the Rajah borrowed a three-pounder brass swivel he had noticed on board. An hour later I heard a report and started in the gig. It was a pull against stream and a scramble over deep marshy ground, which was worse for us than for Malay guides, which the Rajah had sent, knowing the report of the swivel would bring me.

We found His Highness had had a climb. With the three-pounder swivel he had broken the near hind-leg of a female elephant just above the lower joint. As we came up the poor beast made a fresh attempt to escape. As the Rajah appeared to be indifferent, I thought it would be a mercy to put her out of misery.

In Ceylon, the vulnerable spot in the forehead had been pointed out to me. A rifle-shot put her out of misery. It was amusing to see the ease with which the young one, by a swing of the leg, turned over any one of the boat’s crew who attempted to pass the painter over its head.

[Illustration: _Blue-jackets in Chase._]

As morning broke, a refreshing rifle-shot was generally to be found by a sleeping alligator on the mud. If you hit him, he would slide into the river. I have often fancied they do not hear: within a couple of inches, I have struck rocks and mud without disturbing them.

During frequent excursions with the Rajah, I penetrated the domesticities of elephant life: guided by Malays to selected spots in the jungle. I have seen beds prepared of soft young branches, about three feet deep, neatly squared off like a well-made stable litter. This, it appears, is an attention paid by the male to his consort.

One evening, observing from the _Diamond_ a huge alligator asleep on the mud, some distance up the opposite shore, I embarked with one Malay lad in a small canoe, and paddled up-stream far up on the opposite bank, hoping to drop down in time with the tide, to get a shot that might take effect.

On reaching the place, I found marks which showed he had slid off the bank. I had given up all hopes of him, and was plunging my steering, pointed, paddle deep into the water. It struck something hard, and I found the alligator directly under the canoe; his head appeared under the port-bow, his tail lashing the water, covering myself and native boy with mud. Why the brute did not capsize us and make a meal, I cannot imagine, for the canoe was balanced athwart his back. I believe he was more startled, if possible, than we were.

A few days after this little ruse, I received information from the Rajah that a large prahu was running a cargo in the jungle, two miles to the southward of the entrance to the Moowar. The boats of the squadron were getting ready, while I, with the interpreter and a double-barrelled rifle, started at once to seaward, and found a large trading-boat endeavouring to make sail. As soon as I got within reach, a ball from my rifle caused both sails to be lowered. By this time she had opened the mouth of the river: there was no further trouble. The interpreter pointed out her berth in the centre of the river.

The Nanning war was now over, the Company had recovered their guns, and the natives glad to come to any terms. The blockading squadron was recalled to the ship. This expedition, which I thoroughly enjoyed, lasted from June 10 to August 23.

A few days after I rejoined the ship a boat came alongside, with the young elephant on board, and messengers from the Rajah asking me to accept it as a parting gift. Needless to say, it was a present my smart Captain would not permit me to accept.

I was sorry to part with my good friend the Rajah. So persuaded was he of my merits, that he solemnly offered me the hand of his daughter in marriage, on condition that I would become his heir and succeed him on the throne of Moowar. It was no idle jest. His Highness wrote officially to the Powers at Penang, and for some years the document was to be seen in the Government offices.

I have endeavoured to obtain a copy of this flattering proposal; but the lapse of time, the changes of administration in the affairs of the Straits Settlements, to say nothing of the ravages of white ants, preclude my presenting it to my readers.

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