CHAPTER XIX
CAPE COAST CASTLE
[Sidenote: 1837.]
The anchor was no sooner down than a large canoe with four-and-twenty paddles was alongside, waiting orders.
[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]
I went on shore with several of the officers, in straw hats and round jackets, expecting a wetting; the surf ran high. We, however, landed perfectly dry, but had no sooner touched the shore than a salute was fired, and, on entering the square of the fort, I found the garrison turned out. The band struck up “God save the Queen,” which I now heard for the first time, and the guard presented arms. I took off my hat, which I tried to hide, and bowed to everybody. On a promise from the Resident that I should be treated with no further ceremony, I composed myself with an excellent glass of “Madeira.”
Cape Coast Castle, as well as the other English settlements along the coast, was given up by Government about ten years previously to a company, with the allowance of £3500 a year, with which they pay a garrison and keep the forts in repair. They manage, I suppose, by a liberal supply from their own coffers, to do everything in excellent style, and I believe no garrisons under Government can be conducted with greater regularity or kept in better order than these on the western coast of Africa.
Since then trade has increased. The Ashantis, with whom we were constantly at war, became good allies, and confidence re-established. As a proof of this, his Ashanti Majesty has sent two of his sons to England to be educated, and a regular and constant communication is kept with Coomassie, the capital.
We no longer pay tribute for the ground on which Cape Coast Castle is built. There is a well-conducted school established in the fort, where I saw upwards of a hundred native boys. I was struck with the appearance of a smart-looking half-caste boy, about eight years old, who, on my asking his name, said: “Ma name, George, sar: son of Captain George C----, Royal Navy, sar.” This is the first attempt of education, and when knowledge becomes diffused, the natives (Fantees), who are at present idle and superstitious, may soon see the advantages of commerce and industry. They are daily leaving off many of their fetish practices. Their religion appears to consist chiefly in doing homage or making presents to anything their priests choose to call or make fetish--a stone, a tree, a wild beast--in short, anything.
In passing by the edge of a jungle, I observed a path neatly cut through the thickest part of it, and was told that in all probability I should see something “fetish.” I went in. The path terminated at a large stone, round which were some old shells and two or three bottles containing rum. These were offerings to induce this stone to keep harm away from the donors. They consider white men as superior in power to their fetish, and any of them would have removed a bottle of rum from the stone had he been told to do so by the Resident or any white man whom they had been in the habit of looking up to, although they dared not have touched it of their own accord. They follow their own religion, for want of a better. The soil is capable of producing anything, and a second India, on a small scale, may one day rise out of these settlements--that is, if they continue in the hands of such an enterprising, liberal little company of merchants as now have the management. The merchants appeared to vie with one another in doing everything to make our stay at Cape Coast agreeable, in which they fully succeeded.
Mr. Swansen, brother of my old friend, the Governor at Dixcove, prepared a visit to a plantation he was making a few miles in the country.
It is a remarkable fact that the cattle, which formerly used to sleep in the woods outside the town, have, ever since the Ashantis attacked Cape Coast, come in, and sleep under the protection of the guns.
The dispensary is well arranged in the fort, near which I saw what is only seen in tropical climates--a man whose leg had just been amputated by a shark.
I visited Mr. Swansen’s enterprising undertaking, the first attempt at anything like a plantation that had been made. He had been here for two years, and was expending a considerable sum in clearing away the jungle, so that it must be some time before he can get income from it. Napoleon Plantation is about six miles from Cape Coast.
We started, a large party. From the novelty of the scene, the various and curious modes of conveyance, etc., made it to us a most agreeable and amusing excursion. The usual conveyance is in a long narrow basket, carried on the heads of a couple of natives, in which you can lie your length; nothing being visible from the outside but your toes and nose, which gives you the appearance of a corpse. A few were conveyed in a sort of Sedan chair, and several in little light four-wheeled carriages, which are drawn by four men, with two more behind to push uphill. Being drawn in a carriage by human beings sounds contrary to our English ideas, but it is only in the name. They are well paid and worked easily; choosing always their own pace; and I never saw children enjoy the fun of drawing along a little cart more than these blacks did that of drawing the Resident and myself along six miles of bad road.
Mr. Swansen’s comfortable cottage we found prettily situated on the summit of a hill, at the foot of which ran a small river. At the back and sides were mountains covered with impenetrable jungle, which the natives were endeavouring to clear. But the fore-part of the hill on which the house stood was already covered with cotton, coffee, tobacco, and other plants, springing up most luxuriously. A vast number of natives had collected to greet our arrival, and were performing one of the wildest and most picturesque dances. A more agreeable sight, however, and which, I believe, was the chief object of our journey, was an excellent dinner, to which we did ample justice.
[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
We visited an adjoining village, luckily on some fête day, as all the people were dressed in their best. The chiefs of the village, with their attendants, came down to welcome us with trumpets, and a great noise was made with various nondescript instruments. Many curiously-rigged personages, whose offices I could not exactly make out, were in attendance. They danced round us, gave us palm-wine to drink, and fired off muskets close to us--in short, the nearer the muzzle is to your ear without blowing your head off the greater the compliment. It was dark before we got back to the town, when we finished with another dinner at Mr. Swansen’s.
We took leave of our friends at Cape Coast, having passed two agreeable days, the large canoe being in attendance.
Cape Coast is certainly not more unhealthy than most tropical climates, and some weeks might be passed very pleasantly; but there are two serious objections--neither horses nor white women ever live there. The famous authoress, “L. E. L.,” was the last victim.
[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
Anchored off British Accra. The fort is neat, and in first-rate order, but not so large as Cape Coast. This is another settlement. The country is open, and roads are good to the extent of thirty miles. What rendered it so agreeable was the kindness and attention shown by Mr. Bannerman, well known to the Navy employed on this coast.
Accra is famous for the quantity and fineness of its gold-dust. Many pretty rings are made here of the purest gold. Ivory is also to be obtained.
Adjoining, and to the eastward is Dutch Accra, with the remains of a fort, destroyed in 1821 by the English, which the Dutch Governor told me had been washed down by the sea.
Two miles further is a Danish fort and town, all three flags flying within range of each other’s guns.
Accra has an odd appearance from the sea. I rode over to Danish Accra to call on the Governor, and was received with a guard and salute. The natives are much the same in appearance as at Cape Coast, and equally superstitious; among many other absurdities, the untamable hyena is here fetish. These animals come into the town at night and commit depredations with impunity. They imitate the noises of the different animals, and particularly the crying of a child.
A hyena a few nights back dropped two cubs in the street; the following night she returned and took them away.
One of the merchants having shot a hyena while he was employed at night in digging up the remains of a favourite horse, was obliged to make a large _dash_ of rum and tobacco to appease the natives, who fancied that all sorts of calamities would occur in consequence. No work is done until a _dash_ is given.
When the Ashantis bring in gold they stop within a mile of the town and send a messenger, waiting his return with a _dash_. Both men and women drink the rum neat.
The cowry shell is used as money, twenty to a penny.
Good shooting may be had: partridges, hares, and snipe close to the town, and at a short distance deer.
Stock of all sorts to be obtained at moderate prices, as well as beef and mutton. Turtle may be picked up on a sandy beach.
[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
Gray parrots might be bought alongside, four for a dollar, bamboo cage and all.
The last day at Accra we were most sumptuously entertained by the Danish Governor. He had served as a Lieutenant in the French Navy, and had met Goldsmith at Marseilles, who, being very anxious to sketch one of the native women in full costume, the Governor good-naturedly got one of the wives of the chiefs of the town. She made her appearance after dinner, almost covered with finery, which she liked being sketched. Her thighs and hips were covered with silver beads, which, again, were covered by a red cotton dress--a sort of covering wound round her body, all above her hips being left bare, as well as below her knees. She had upwards of a thousand dollars’ worth of gold ornaments on her. After this took our departure.
Under way just before sunset, and saluted the Danish flag in passing. During a fortnight’s cruise in search of the senior officer we fell in with _Saracen_, _Viper_, and _Waterwitch_. The latter is one of Symonds’ beautiful brigs; she beat us to windward during half an hour’s trial.
[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]
Anchored in Clarence Cove, Fernando Po. This place was once in possession of our Government, but now belongs to a small company of merchants. The first question asked by every passer-by is: “What in the world could induce the Government to give up such a place with so many advantages?”
As a rendezvous for ships of war it is perfect. The anchorage is capacious and safe, the fresh water excellent and plentiful, and no end of firewood. There is also a good place for hauling the seine, with lots of fine fish. An excellent beach for hauling boats up for repair.
Clarence Cove is a key to some of the largest rivers in Africa, and its being situated in the centre almost of the country from which most of the slaves are exported renders this the most fit place for the slave court to be held.
Although at present the island is not overstocked with bullocks, still animals of all sorts thrive here, and by a little pains it might become one of the most commodious and useful spots on the globe as a naval establishment. The timber also, of which there is an enormous quantity, and of great variety, is allowed to be the best exported from any part of Africa. The soil is rich, and capable of producing anything.
The company had appointed two zealous and active agents in Messrs. Beecroft and Oldfield, who act as Governors, and fill all other appointments besides. The population consists of 800 persons, chiefly liberated negroes from Sierra Leone.
There is a small militia garrison of about sixty persons, and several stores containing a little of everything, which articles they ship off in smaller vessels who barter up the adjoining rivers with the natives for palm-oil and ivory.
Although there are a vast number of palms on the island, the natives have not been taught the advantage of collecting the oil, and bringing it down to barter for British goods. They are as yet an idle and indolent race, but I should think most useful and willing when once they can be convinced of the advantages of industry. The trees are felled by Kroomen. I saw one piece of timber measuring 5 feet square at the smallest, and 60 feet long.
Mr. Beecroft was kind enough to have a couple of the largest trees felled for us to see, and I think, next to the launching of a large ship, it was the most magnificent sight I ever beheld.
We remained at Fernando Po for a week, sailing on 21st. On 23rd we were overtaken by a moderate tornado, which lasted three hours, and ended in a north-east breeze.
[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]
Came to in West Bay, Prince’s Island, to gain intelligence of the senior Commander, under whose orders I was about to place myself.
This is an exceedingly pretty and secure little bay, well adapted for cruisers to complete wood and water. There are sugar-loaf mountains and other shaped hills which give the island a picturesque appearance. It belongs to the Portuguese.
[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
Anchored in Church Bay, at which place Doña Ferraz, widow of the Portuguese Governor of Prince’s Island, holds her court. She is a very kind and hospitable lady of rather dark complexion, and fond of the English.
Doña Ferraz has five of these large houses, around which the negro huts are prettily arranged, each having its garden in front.
The _slavery_ was only in the name; I never saw a set of people more happy and contented, or more devoted than they are to their mistress.
We remained a couple of days, during which time I was “Madame’s” (the name she always goes by) guest.
I noticed, tending the table, some smart-looking boys, of a much lighter complexion than the generality of the slave children. I found on inquiry that they were all born at West Bay, where British cruisers go for wood and water.
However, after a certain age, “Madame” gives them their freedom, a piece of ground, and a small sum of money.
About four o’clock in the afternoon a rakish schooner hove in sight, coming round the northernmost point of the bay, but on seeing us, she bore up.
We immediately weighed and made all sail in chase, but directly after sunset in the tropics, when there is no moon, it becomes exceedingly dark. At daylight nothing of our chase was to be seen.
[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]
Fell in with a brig, 450 slaves on board. Prize to _Scout_, 18, Commander R. Craigie.
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