CHAPTER XXX
_Dido_--CHINA
[Sidenote: 1843. June 28.]
Afternoon, came to in Singapore Roads. Put up with friend Whitehead. Glad again to catch Henry Seymour in _Harlequin_.
Sorry to hear of the death of my dear old Royal master, the Duke of Sussex.
Examination of midshipmen. One rare stupid, but passed them all! Landed poor Dr. Simpson at sick-quarters looking too ill.
[Sidenote: June 30.]
Weighed for China. Synge of 98th with me. Have to work up against monsoon. A lovely squall carried us eleven knots, on a wind. At sunset shifted topsails ready for the next. No wish for a typhoon though.
[Sidenote: July 12.]
1 A.M.--Anchored in Hong Kong. Breakfast with Commander-in-Chief. Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane present.
The Plenipotentiary, Sir Henry Pottinger, was busy extracting indemnity from Mandarins, who understood as much or as little as they liked. Although war was over, it was necessary to retain possession of certain points until the indemnity was paid. This caused many transports to lie idle at Whampoa. Nor was there enough of the rupee coin to pay the crews. Idleness, root of evil.
_Dido_ being a post command, it fell to my disagreeable lot to keep order. I did not think much of the Consuls and Vice-Consuls, nor they of me. The Plenipo and Admiral, not having much to do, were jealous.
If I have any fair readers, I would advise them to skip the following. I hope shortly to take them to new ground.
[Sidenote: July 13.]
Cunynghame to breakfast. Lent me his pony that I might dine with 98th at Chuck Chow. Whimper, senior, attentive and kind, as they all were, proposed my health as senior honorary member.
[Sidenote: July 17.]
Signal for _Dido_, “Prepare for sea.” Sailed for Macao with Edwards and Wade. One of the pirates who had murdered Dr. Kinlay caught.
[Sidenote: July 19.]
Pleasant dinner with Lord Saltoun. Met Colonel Colin Campbell, of 98th; also Wade, same regiment, who became a wonderful Chinese scholar.
[Sidenote: July 22.]
_Agincourt_ (nicknamed _’Gincourt_) doing “small craft,” cruising about the harbour. During the afternoon she got on shore, and _Dido_ was signalled to go to her assistance.
[Sidenote: July 24.]
Got orders to take station at Whampoa, first communicating with Plenipo. Consul stupid. Asked him to dinner. He came, although too ill to wait on me before.
[Sidenote: Whampoa, July 27.]
_Dido_ causing sensation among handsome and fast opium clippers. Amoy, name of an old Chinese woman keeping a tanker-boat here, has $40,000, made by smuggling opium.
[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
$188,000 taken on board on Government account.
[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
Another instalment of half-million dollars. Settled cases of mutiny on board merchant ships.
[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
Heard last evening death of our valued friend and shipmate, Dr. Simpson, at Singapore.
Our Chinese beef-contractor, being anxious that I should visit his curiosity-shop, on my stating that I had no money, exclaimed, “Hai yah! Wot can do? S’pose got no money, how can make handsome face? How get command fine ship, all same _Dido_.”
For company I had a French corvette, _L’Alcmène_, 26, Captaine Le Comte Fourinier. We were good friends; generally breakfasted together. One morning his approach was announced rather later than usual, but in full uniform. I had to listen to a complaint.
During his morning’s pull he happened to pass through Blenheim Reach, and to his astonishment (_and_ mine) he found six British men-of-war--three of them ships of the line. He stated that by treaty we were limited to a certain number, and seemed to think he had been hardly used by my not having let him know this fact before.
I took him by the arm and conducted him down to breakfast; then informed him that what he had seen were merely our “tea-chests.” But, he exclaimed, that happening to be there at eight o’clock, he had seen them cross topgallant yards, hoist colours, while the bands played “God save the Queen.”
I told him that three of them might _once_ have been ships of the line. They were now our tea-chests, and came from Calcutta during northerly monsoon with cotton, and perhaps a bit of opium, and went back by the southerly monsoon with tea, and perhaps a few curios.
We had great fun, and he enjoyed the gay parties in Blenheim Reach as much as we did.
[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]
Young Partridge came to dine, many of the name down in Norfolk this day. I wish I could get my good bird promoted.
[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
Among the cheery parties, few better than that given by Captain Baker on board the _Earl of Balcarres_. Did not get home before the usual “daylight.”
[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
Mr. Consul Hamilton arrived from Canton to take up his quarters. _Chez moi!_ No spare room. He found _Dido_ too hot. Billeted him on board the _Lowjee Family_.
[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
Regatta of country ships’ boats. Bad finish. Tiller broke in a mate’s hands; he fell backwards overboard, and was drowned before any one could get near. Hundreds of spectators. In the midst of life we are in death.
[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]
F. Horton, who had been invalided, took his parting dinner with me. Sorry indeed to lose him. With use of launch and pinnace was enabled to make visits to Canton, Macao, and Hong Kong, to say nothing of the cheery Blenheim Reach.
I was anxious for a change, having been doing magistrate at Whampoa over two months.
[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
Made visit in launch to Plenipo and friends at Hong Kong; next day to Macao. While riding one of Gray’s best horses near the boundary lines, was charged by a buffalo cow, causing a cut nearly a foot in length, and drawing blood on near flank.
[Sidenote: Sept. 30.]
On returning, anchored to save tide off the Chinese fort. Was run down by a light merchant brig; she carried away our foremast, giving me a violent blow on left heel.
[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]
Admiral arrived in _Spitfire_. With him to Canton. Old round of curio-shops. Heel very painful. Blue at the fore hoisted on board _Dido_.
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
Visited the place where our troops landed and captured Canton before _Dido_ arrived on the station. Large dinner at Livingstone’s.
[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]
_Dido_ resigned flag to _Spiteful_.
Tied by leg, or, more properly, by the heel.
[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]
Gray and Hogg to dinner; also new Master, Allen.
[Sidenote: Oct. 21.]
Tiffined with Doctor Marjoribanks. He informed me that a Mandarin in Canton was seriously ill, and he had been sent for. He told me if I would care to dress in plain clothes, and come as his assistant, I should see many things forbidden to “Foreign Devils.”
Curiously enough, a hundred years ago, my grand-uncle, Admiral Lord Keppel, then a Mid, wrote in his Log-Book:--
“Fryday, _14th October, 1743_.--Commodore Anson, Captain Saumarez, and myself, put off from the _Centurion_ in ye barge for Canton.”
Before his visit in the _Centurion_, no foreigner was known to have entered the Celestial City, and for a century its gates were closed to foreigners.
[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
Was about to dine with McKeans, when a fire broke out in Canton. Went to the top of Livingstone’s house, and found the sight too grand to leave; had dinner sent up there. Rice birds in perfection. Sent for _Dido_.
Passed night in the American _hong_,[6] which soon became too hot. Our marines protected property, which became easier after a Lascar had been shot.
[6] Business House.
[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
All business was stopped for a few days. Dent’s _hong_ took a flower-boat to live in. I gave them a corporal’s guard of seven marines.
[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
Ordered to Hong Kong. With Jardine and Miss Hogg to Whampoa in a dollar boat.
[Sidenote: Nov. 11.]
[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]
Hong Kong continuing sickly; two or three funerals daily. The breaking-up of fresh building ground, I believe, the cause. The Plenipo’s nephew, Major Pottinger, supposed to be dying.
[Sidenote: Nov. 16.]
Signalled at dinner-time to go to Macao.
[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]
Anchored early. Saluted French Commodore Roy in _L’Erigone_, 46. Friends Lindsay and Co. took me in.
[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]
Returned to Hong Kong. Quite cold; fires pleasant. Am to accompany Admiral to Manila.
[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
Weighed from Macao and joined both Admirals off the Ladrones. Beat them sailing, to my satisfaction. At noon Rear-Admiral got permission to
## part company.
[Sidenote: Dec. 6.]
Blowing fresh. Both sails and ropes much worn. Dockyard stores short.
[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
Weather finer. Admiral signalled for me to dine at 3 P.M. Same time sent me to examine strange sail, sixteen miles to leeward. She proved to be the _Duchess of Gordon_, from Macao, bound to Manila. Rejoined Admiral during the night.
[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]
Signal to dine with Admiral at 4 P.M. No stranger in sight! After dinner directed to proceed to Manila.
[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]
Daylight, anchored off Manila. Put up with Richardson.
Called on Governor, with letter from Commander-in-Chief, and officials, and returned at night to be ready to receive Admiral. Much taken with the wonderful vegetation stretching from shore as far as the eye can reach.
Admiral, accompanied by Lord Saltoun, Cunynghame, and Hope Grant, landed at noon, under a salute of 21 guns. What an opportunity for me to see the capital of the Philippines! They were received by the Teniente del Rey and el Mayor de la Plaza, and escorted by cavalry, guards of soldiers to any extent, also a military band, showing the cordial feeling which existed between us.
The city is divided into two parts by a river, and fortified on all sides. “Orang” is the term used by all peoples of the great Eastern Archipelago, prefixed to the different races. The residents of the Spanish Settlements called themselves after the high-sounding name of Orang Castillia. Malays use the term “Orang Puteh” (white man) for the English only.
Nothing could exceed the courtesy and kindness with which the Spanish authorities, as well as the English and other merchants, treated us.
[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
Visited the Government tobacco factory, and saw 3000 or more native women manufacturing cheroots. We then went to the _pina_ manufactory, a beautifully fine but expensive fabric, made from pine-apple fibre, silky and delicately dyed. We saw the _pina_ dress ordered by the great Parsee, Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, to be sent home to the Queen. It cost $3000, and it took thirty or forty women to weave and prepare the fibre.
[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]
Attended the theatre; all native performers. With the small Spanish I picked up on the south coast of Spain, I really enjoyed the play.
[Sidenote: Dec. 17.]
Started, with the Admiral, Saltoun, and suite, after dinner on an interesting expedition to a place called Guadeloupe, in a well-fitted canoe.
Passing through fertile pâdi-land, we were received by the Adjutant-General in great state on our arriving at Pasig. The priests, hearing of our approach from Don Crispon, who accompanied us, also welcomed us by sending in children nicely dressed, bearing wreaths of flowers and carrying small flags, who danced and sang in procession till we reached the Casa del Cura, where more salutes were fired. We were entertained here by the jolly friars of San Augustine.
[Sidenote: Dec. 19.]
Passing through beautiful scenery, ascending rapids, and saw wonderful cascades at Baya Baya. Returned to Cavite Fort.
[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]
Embarked, attended by a band of music, with Admiral and General, to see the hot springs at Los Baños. This was a stream of hot water, which was falling into the lake at the rate of several hundred gallons a minute, highly charged with sulphur. The surrounding country is volcanic; near this lake is the crater of an extinct volcano, but the water which filled it was putrid and full of crocodiles.
Here the _cura_ (village priest) entertained our party, his band playing us in. Indeed, it was a kind of triumphal march all the time, the people wishing to honour those who had taken part in the conquering of China.
[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
We reached Pasig at sunset. Mr. Consul Diggles gave a grand dinner, and afterwards a ball, at which a native tailor introduced himself. He was helped to an awkward fall downstairs, and roared out he was dead! Poor Diggles got into trouble about it, a junta of doctors declaring the tailor was in danger of losing his life. However, a sum of money soothed this down, like most things amongst natives.
[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
We ate our Christmas dinner at the _hacienda_ of the Augustinian friars, a rich community, who were most lavish in their entertainment.
[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]
Dinner at the United States Consulate; went afterwards to Balancan by moonlight, staying at the convent of Quingoa, with Padre Faustus; we slept in small dormitories.
[Sidenote: Dec. 30.]
Returned to the city of Manila, getting an excellent cup of chocolate before starting from a priest who had been a soldier in the Carlist wars.
[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
Made purchases, by permission of Sir William Parker, of Manila rope, cordage, sails, booms, and small spars for _Dido_. _Cornwallis_ also refitted. Paid farewell visits to Captain-General and other friends.
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