CHAPTER IV
THE _TWEED_
[Sidenote: 1826. Jan. 19.]
Had to attend my Captain at a court-martial which caused an unusual sensation. It took place on board the _Victory_ in Portsmouth Harbour, with all established pomp and ceremony. The president was Rear-Admiral of the White, Sir William Hall Gage. On opening the Court, the ten senior Captains of those assembled were sworn; the remainder were informed their services were not required. The Provost-Marshal, with drawn sword and cocked hat, in charge of the prisoner, took position at the lower end near the right side of the table, on which lay the prisoner’s sword with handle towards him.
The following Captains formed the Court, taking their seats on alternate sides of the table, according to seniority, the senior on the right of the president:
Patrick Campbell, C.B., _Ocean_, 80. Sir Michael Seymour, Bart., K.C.B., Royal Yacht. Henry Hill, _Melville_, 74. Fred. Warren, _Spartiate_, 76. Charles Inglis, _Victory_, 104. William Fairbrother Carrol, _Warspite_, 76. Nicholas Lockyer, C.B., _Romney_. Fred. Hunn, _Tweed_, 28. Richard Deans Dundas, _Volage_, 26.
The prisoner was Captain of the _Ariadne_. He was tried for having purchased a slave negress at Zanzibar, and taken her to sea. She mysteriously disappeared off the coast of Africa.
[Sidenote: Jan. 24]
The trial lasted three days. When the Court reopened for the last time, the members had resumed their cocked hats, the prisoner’s sword lay on the table with the point towards him. He was dismissed the service of His Majesty King George IV., and Captain Adolphus Fitz-Clarence appointed to the _Ariadne_.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
Received Colonel Dashwood, appointed Consul at Mexico, a guardsman, and of course a good fellow: it was not until the 25th that we got his luggage and fixings on board. In the afternoon we sailed, but not in a hurry; Captains with Government passengers seldom are. We anchored at Cowes and Yarmouth; next move we ran through the Needles.
[Feb. 15.]
We were glad to find ourselves out of the cold, and came to in Funchall Roads. We saluted the Portuguese flag: the pinnace, instead of being astern, was fast to the guess-warp boom; her planking so shook that she had to be hoisted in. Next day the First Lieutenant was invalided, and went home in the _Eden_, 28. On shore we enjoyed the usual kind hospitality. I had lost my female playfellows, and, although I did not grow, I joined my seniors in the rides and picnics; that at the Corral, for enjoyment and scenery, is not to be beaten.
[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]
On sailing, we got unusually quick into the north-east trade; sails trimmed accordingly, ropes coiled up, and ship prepared for painting.
[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
We came to in Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes. Sent boats and party on shore for water, which I was allowed to join.
[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
We sailed. No scenery in the Mediterranean can be more beautiful than that we experienced running past the beautiful Islands of Porto Rico, St. Domingo, and distant view of Cuba; sea clear and smooth; flying-fish, dolphin, and sea-birds.
[Sidenote: April 5.]
Running into Port Royal, we saluted the flag of Vice-Admiral Sir Lawrence Halstead.
The next morning I saw the Governor, the Duke of Manchester, who had driven down from his hill residence to meet our Captain--his conveyance, a random tandem: two leaders abreast and a horse between the shafts.
[Sidenote: April 8.]
We left Port Royal, running down the trade, and reached Vera Cruz on the 19th, saluting the Mexican flag with 19 guns.
[Sidenote: April 23.]
Royal salute, it being His Majesty George IV.’s birthday. Same day Governor-General of Vera Cruz came on board, and was saluted with 19 guns. It took a few days before the Consul’s house at Xalapa was fit to receive him; he left us under a salute of 7 guns, but what he seemed to prefer were three hearty British cheers.
The Gulf of Mexico is for dollars what the bank of Newfoundland is for fish; owing to the number of slavers, who, when their trade is slack, are not above doing a bit of piracy, the merchants care not to trust their money to traders, while Captains of the Royal Navy were keen freight collectors.
I copy the following from my Navy List:--
“Proclamation by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, Regent of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, in the name and on behalf of His Majesty.
“The freight paid for the conveyance of treasure on board a man-of-war in the West Indies 2 per cent. On the other side of the Capes Horn and Good Hope, a half more. Of this freight, one-fourth to Greenwich Hospital, one-fourth to the Admiral, or Admirals, on the station, and the remaining two-fourths to the Captain.”
I observed that half the pier at Vera Cruz was built of lumps of iron, such as have since been called “Seeley’s pigs.” They had been landed at different times to make room for specie. The Admiral took care to keep a cruiser not far off, so that the arrival of a convoy of specie from Mexico was quickly communicated. Now and then a wicked little mail brig from Falmouth would drop in, and walk off with what she could carry. Cochineal paid freight, but it was too bulky, and required time. Our turn had not arrived, so we kept between Tampico and Vera Cruz, learning something.
[Sidenote: May 9.]
We came to off Tampico. A more uninviting open roadstead could not be: in-shore the mouth of a large river, a bar and heavy surf breaking across and beyond. We lay at single anchor ready to face foul weather.
Fresh water was only to be had by sending our boom-boats, with casks, up the river, beyond high-water mark, and remaining the night. When you got back, it was doubtful whether the state of the bar would allow deep-laden boats to cross. To us mids, who had no responsibility, it was great fun. Alligators, turtle, and sharks were numerous; these were seen to advantage from the shore, when waves came rolling in, lifting the monsters into the light. The beach was covered with large mahogany-trees and broken branches, washed down by the rain floods.
[Sidenote: May 12.]
It was my turn to go with the water boats--to me a picnic. Over the bar, we pulled up the river, tide with us, intending to anchor off-shore for the night; but first we had to cook a substantial meal under the trees. I was about to jump from the bow of the pinnace on to a dead tree covered with mud, when the bowman put his hand on my shoulder, and pointed out that my “dead tree” was a live alligator. I ran aft and seized a marine’s musket, already loaded. The reptile at that moment lifted his upper jaw, and I sent a ball into his stomach. He was assailed with stretchers and cutlasses, and soon became harmless.
At daylight we filled our casks from alongside, and pulled easily down with the tide, alligator in tow, and so alongside. As I could not pickle the brute, I was anxious to obtain the bullet, it being my first shot at big game, and got the good-natured Assistant-Surgeon Taylor to dissect him. While performing, the doctor complained of the strong smell of musk, which I attributed to the ball he was in search of. The alligator measured eleven feet from tip of nose to end of tail.
[Sidenote: May 18.]
We sailed for the Havana. On June 6, as we passed in, close under the famous Moro, we were hailed through a huge brass trumpet, in some unintelligible jargon, which was replied to in much the same coin.
[Sidenote: Havana, June 6.]
I was now in the famous Havana, of which I had heard (and seen, as far as pictures go) so much at Quidenham. My grandfather, assisted by his brothers, General William and Commodore Augustus Keppel, had captured it in 1762.
[Sidenote: June 13.]
_Galatea_, 42. Sir Charles Sullivan, Bart., arrived from Carthagena; secured along the spritsail yard was the skin of a huge alligator. The Spanish Main was unhealthy, yet famous for the collection of dollars; but this gallant officer, the moment he had two of his crew down with fever, left the dollars for the next cruiser to collect.
Sailed from the Havana on June 13 to rejoin the flag, arriving off the port on the evening of July 5: we had to wait for the next day’s sea-breeze to take us in.
[Sidenote: July 6.]
On running for Port Royal we stuck on the middle bank, the sea-breeze, with its accompanying swell, having set in. We did not shorten sail, as we drew only about three inches less than the water over the brittle coral reef. My station was in the main top; the sea and down to the bottom as clear as crystal: it was a pretty sight, when the swell lifted the ship and eased her down. As we proceeded, the variety of beautiful fish and animals dashed from under, on both sides. Got into Port Royal with our bottom a little cleaner than it was. I believe the mishap occurred by the Quartermaster not rightly distinguishing the black pilot’s pronunciation of “starboard” and “larboard.” Found here the magnificent hospital and store-ship _Isis_, 50, with flag, _Rattlesnake_, 28, and _Harlequin_, 18.
Sent pinnace with specie to Kingston. We were not wanted long; I had only time to make the acquaintance of one Johnnie Ferron, a jolly Frenchman, who kept a store, in which was to be found everything, even to a pair of skates, and three pretty daughters. We were ordered on a cruise: there were few dollars, but we _might_ tumble across a slaver.
[Sidenote: July 11, 16.]
Sailed for the eastward, and as trade wind and current were the same way, we had to work to windward, unless, as frequently happened near land, we got becalmed with islands of Cuba and St. Domingo in sight.
At daylight we saw a rakish-looking black schooner, running before the wind under studding sails. She no sooner made us out than she hauled to the wind, and was soon out of sight.
[Sidenote: July 20.]
Four days after we ran into Port-au-Prince, and saluted the Black Republican flag with seventeen guns.
Mr. Mackenzie was our Consul, and through him we saw quite enough. There were negroes parading about in the cast-off uniforms of our infantry and cavalry, helmets and jack-boots, but nothing to ride.
The most beautiful island in the Far West was the first landed on by Christopher Columbus. Some of his followers fancied they smelt gold; he left a party behind, from the effects of which Hayti never recovered.
For the short time that they claimed the British protection our hands were full, and we only undertook half-and-half measures. During the earthquake of 1842, 3000 people were burnt. The history of St. Domingo and Hayti fills a book of horrors.
[Sidenote: August 23, 29.]
Sailed from Port-au-Prince on August 6; during our cruise visited the Gonaives and St. Jago de Cuba.
Left in the early morning, just in time to share prize-money with the _Aurora_ and _Harlequin_.
Observed the frigate fire a shot across the bows of a schooner under Dutch colours; between us she had no chance of escape. She proved to be Spanish, from Africa, with 267 slaves on board, which, as their heads were shaved and greased, they looked, before we got close, like so many 32 lb. round shot.
[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
On September 2 arrived at Port Royal, and commenced final refit before going to Spanish Main, dollar-hunting.
[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
The _Lord Sidmouth_ mail-packet sailed for England, and _Ferret_, with convoy flag, for Chagres.
[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
Arrived _Countess of Chichester_ packet, with mail from Falmouth.
[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]
We sailed.
[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
Came to in Vera Cruz, moored with B. B., down stream to the Castle.
[Illustration: _Vera Cruz._]
[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
While dollars were being piled sailed on a cruise.
[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
On the 27th becalmed about 150 miles south-west of the Mississippi in 40 fathoms water, and had some excellent sport; cod-fish at the bottom seized both baits as they reached them. About 12 fathoms below the surface sharks abounded; the sea was as clear as glass: the fun was to steer your hooked fish through them. But a shark is a lazy brute, likes to know something about what he is going to eat; the deep-sea shark is always attended by a pilot-fish, who makes his report.
[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]
Arrived at Port Royal; not much to do.
[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]
Towed out of harbour into sea-breeze.
[Sidenote: Mexico, Vera Cruz, Dec. 6.]
Made the beautiful snow-capped mountain of Orizaba. Moored between roadstead and St. Juan d’Ulloa. Our Captain having decided that he would carry cochineal as well as dollars, the main-deck guns were run in and the carriages secured fore and aft. The half-ports caulked in, leaving the lower deck cleared for cargo, crew consoling themselves by the absence of gun-drill and the comfort of an airy deck. In fact, on arriving on the station, hammocks by general consent were dispensed with. I, as well as the rest, had for two years no other bed than the deck, with jackets rolled up for a pillow.
[Sidenote: 1827. Jan. 1.]
Lieutenant Christopher Smith and self availed ourselves of the repeated kind invitations of Colonel Dashwood to visit him at Xalapa, to us a strange country not without its excitements. We were glad of the chance to get above the sickly Tierra Caliente. Xalapa stands on table-land some 4300 feet above the level of the sea, distant twenty-two leagues.
Our conveyances were a sort of flat palanquins, supported between long shafts with a mule at each end: mounted armed guides and mules with luggage completed our caravan. On account of the heat, we did not start until sunset. The first half of our journey was along a sandy desert infested by brigands, to protect us from which we paid our guides extra; of course, at one part of the night we were told to keep our pistols ready. Convoys are necessary for the frequent conveyance of dollars from Mexico, and of which business men take advantage, coming and returning.
After passing a refreshment-house at Santa Fé, we crossed the grand Puente del Rey, and began to ascend. It was curious how quickly we felt the agreeable change of climate, and enjoyed the fresh smell of trees and flowers, the sight of birds of various plumage, and small hares crossing the road.
At San Rafael refreshed animals and selves at a decent _posada_. Smell of garlic we did not mind. At 3 P.M. we were welcomed at the hospitable establishment of Colonel Dashwood. Only a land-surveyor could describe the beauty of the scene--the great table-land in front, with its tropical vegetation, and the background of Perote and the snow-clad Orizaba, in the centre of the torrid zone, flanked by volcanic mountains. One understood how the gallant guardsman could have left his snug quarters in St. James’s.
Xalapa was formerly the mart of New Spain; merchandise brought on mules to the annual fair. The apparently magnificent cathedral at the city of Mexico, a grand pile to look at, was, on account of the frequent earthquakes, built of bamboo and cane, and so plastered over.
Visited some of the country villages, and was astonished to see the plaster figure of Our Saviour crucified as a black man!
I will not attempt to describe the hospitality of our kind host. Mutton was the prevailing dish; the atmosphere suited sheep better than bullocks, but game and water-fowl were in plenty. I had an early taste for ornithology, and enjoyed many days with my gun in the adjacent forests. Oak-trees flourished on the tableland, and vegetables in its temperate climate. The tree which produces the drug jalap thrives here: about 200,000 lb. are exported annually. But I am getting out of my depth as a sailor, and our visit with the kind, hospitable Dashwood too soon came to an end.
[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]
Took leave of our kind host, arriving on board the following day.
[Sidenote: February 5, 26; March 18, 23.]
Sailed, cruising off and on Tampico, collecting dollars and cochineal, until 26th, when we sailed, and arrived at the Havana on March 18. Sailed again on the 23rd.
[Sidenote: April 21.]
Sighted the Lizard.
EXTRACT FROM “HAMPSHIRE TELEGRAPH,” APRIL 28, 1827.
On Tuesday the _Tweed_, Captain Frederick Hunn, arrived from Vera Cruz, Tampico, and the Havana, bringing half a million dollars on account of the Mexican Government, to pay interest on the Mexican Loan. Also one and a half million hard dollars, and 336 serons of cochineal, worth at present market value £40,000, on merchants’ account.
[Sidenote: May 17.]
Paid out of commission.
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