CHAPTER XIV.

REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII.

Universal mourning on the death of the Guises; intolerance of showy dress—Vertugadins, “espoitrement,” “corps espagnolé”—Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d’Estrées and to the queen—Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various styles—Venetian slippers—Edicts of Louis XII.—Caricatures: “Pompe funèbre de la Mode”—Words and fashions—Ribbons or “galants”—Dress of widows—“Demi-ceint” girdles—Gloves of all sorts—Patches—Masks; their use—“Cache-laid”—The Frondeuses—Mme. de Longueville 113