CHAPTER IX.

REIGN OF FRANCIS I.

The court of Francis I.—A speech of Charles V.—The king’s liberality—Order of the Cordelière—Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The “hoche-plis” or vertugadin—Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin’s life—Satires and songs—Mdlle. de Lacépède—“Contenances”—Silk shoes with slashes—Head-dress called a “passe-filon”—Increase of love of dress—The bean-flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair called _ratraprenades_—Ferronières—Coaches in Paris; their influence on the fashions 71