CHAPTER XXII.

REIGNS OF LOUIS XVIII. AND CHARLES X.

Importation of foreign fashions in 1815—White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys—Emigrant ladies—Russian toques—Male and female dressmakers—Ruchings—Short sleeves and long gloves—Herbault’s bonnets—“Chefs”—Anglomania in 1815—Green gauze veils; spencers—The “canezou”—Lacroix, the stay-maker—Dr. Pelletan and Charles X.—Wasps—The “Ourika” fashions—The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves—Fashions “à l’Ipsiboé,” “au Trocadéro,” and “à la Dame Blanche”—Blonde caps and turbans—Head-dresses—Fashions “à la giraffe;” “the last sigh of Jocko”—Female book-keepers; shopwomen—The Café des Mille-Colonnes 197