CHAPTER VIII.

REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII.

Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—“La grand’gorre,” or sumptuosity—The “troussoire”—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses—“Collets rebrassés”—Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy—Italian fashions—“Sollerets” and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—Jean Marot writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot “the golden-tongued”—A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.—Coat à l’Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs 61