Part 11

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS (figs. 373 and 374).—As the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty space. The number and length of the threads which you carry across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to replace.

[Illustration: FIG. 373. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS. POSITION OF THE THREADS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 374. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS. HOW TO COVER THE OBLIQUE THREADS.]

Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the one the original web is made of, and make a few stitches over the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first disengaged loop, pass it under two threads issuing from one loop, and then bring it back again into the same loop between the two slanting threads, drawing it out again upwards from below, through the next loop, and so on. The new loop must be just equal to the old ones in size. Make in the same manner as at the beginning, two or three stitches at the end of the row, within the edge of the hole. Work back in a similar way, with this difference only, that you turn your work round.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 375).—The following patterns are suitable for making counterpanes, petticoats, vests and other articles of clothing. Select a suitable number of Coton à tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches and 1 purled, taken from behind.

[Illustration: FIG. 375. PIQUÉ PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30.]

7th row—purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and knit 5 plain more and so on.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 376).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 14.

[Illustration: FIG. 376. PIQUÉ PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Coton pour crochet 4 fils D.M.C Nos. 4 to 20.[A]]

1st and 2nd row—* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat from *.

3rd and 4th row—* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat from *.

Repeat the whole from the 1st row.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 377).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 4.

[Illustration: FIG. 377. PIQUÉ PATTERN. MATERIALS: The same as for fig. 371.]

The 8 first rows—knit 2, purl 2.

9th and 10th row—knit 2 over the 2 purled, purl 2 over the 2 knitted of the 8th row.

11th and 12th rows—the same as the first 8 rows.

13th and 14th row—the same as the 9th and 10th row.

15th to the 23rd—the same as the first 8 rows.

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 378).—This pattern is to be worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes thicken the cotton more than the light ones do. The blue, red and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

[Illustration: FIG. 378. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES. MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 6, 8, 10 or 12. COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321 and Gris-Tilleul 391.[A]]

Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the green, in order that the same number of stitches should make the same length of stripe.

Cast on 28 stitches:

1st needle—slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, 1 chain stitch.

2nd needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

3rd needle—right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

4th needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

5th needle—on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

6th needle—on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle like the 3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. Five plain stitches form a zigzag in the middle of the stripe.

Join the stripes with crochet stitches; of which several kinds are described in the next chapter.

KNITTED SQUARE (fig. 379).—Cast on 2 stitches on to each of the 4 needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.

[Illustration: FIG. 379. KNITTED SQUARE. MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 8 or Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20.]

1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.

2nd row—knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.

3rd row—knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 2 *.

4th row—knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

5th row—knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.

6th row—knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.

7th row—knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.

8th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2 *.

9th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2 *.

10th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2 *.

11th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2 *.

12th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 stitches (that is, first knit off the second stitch plain and then the first), knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

13th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.

14th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.

15th row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.

16th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

17th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

18th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

19th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

20th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

21st row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

22nd row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

23rd row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.

24th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

25th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, knit 2 *.

26th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

27th round—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.

PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN (fig. 380).—This easy and extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.

[Illustration: FIG. 380. PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN.]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the edge.

1st row—slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the next stitch, as if to purl it, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right, knit 1, repeat from *, and finish with 2 plain.

2nd row—begin with 1 chain, knit 1, knit the slipped stitch and the over together, over, slip the single stitch that remains, from the left needle to the right. When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake alternately.

DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING (fig. 381).—Begin on the wrong side.

[Illustration: FIG. 381. DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING.]

1st row—like the 1st row of fig. 380.

2nd row—knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting the needle into it from right to left.

3rd row—like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only the second and third row that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a charming effect, done in two colours, by working them alternately backwards and forwards.

PLAITED STITCH (fig. 382).—This kind of stitch is worked in stripes, which, for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller articles the higher numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by crossing the stitches, that is, by knitting the second stitch on the left needle to begin with, and then the first stitch.

[Illustration: FIG. 382. PLAITED STITCH.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

If you cross two or more stitches in a few successive rows without slipping them, the stitches will be seen by degrees, to form a plait, as shown in fig. 382.

1st row—purl 4, cast on 3 stitches on to an auxiliary needle, and leave it hanging on the inside of the work; knit 3 and then knit the 3 stitches on the extra needle, purl 4.

Then follow 5 rows, in which you purl all the purled stitches and knit all the plain ones. After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.

TURKISH STITCH (fig. 383).—1st row—slip 1, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on to the 2 last stitches, which you knit plain.

[Illustration: FIG. 383. TURKISH STITCH.]

2nd row—slip the 1st, knit the 2nd and the 3rd plain, the latter having been formed by the last over on the 1st needle; 1 over, 1 intake with the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake and so on.

TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS (fig. 384).—String the beads on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any colour, and small beads.

[Illustration: FIG. 384. TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS.]

For close beaded knitting, plain stitch is the best. Run the beads down singly at each stitch. The beads will fall on the reverse side of the work so that in knitting with beads, remember that the reverse side will be the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same stitch as fig. 383, you run down 2 or sometimes 3 beads before knitting each stitch.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON (fig. 385).—A variety of pretty things, such as open-work stockings, shawls, curtains etc. can be made in this pattern, worked with two sizes of thread. To give it its full effect it ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.

[Illustration: FIG. 385. KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON.

MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80, écru.[A]]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 8. Take the coarse thread to begin with.

1st and 2nd row—purl.

3rd row—purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.

4th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together, slip the next stitch of the previous row, drop the double over, slip the next stitch, 1 over, knit 2 together.

5th row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on.

6th row—like the last. See that the 2 slipped stitches, in the coarse thread, always come on the right side of the work.

7th row—with the coarse thread: purl 4, purl the 2 slipped stitches of the 3rd row together, then repeat from the 1st row.

See that in the 3rd row the 2 overs come between the stitches formed by the 2 stitches that were formed by the 1st over, and the 2 stitches of the 6th row, that were knitted together.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD (fig. 386).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

[Illustration: FIG. 386. KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD.

MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 25 to 30 and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80.]

1st row—with coarse thread: purl.

2nd row—plain.

3rd row—with fine thread: over, 1 intake, knit 2.

4th row—plain.

5th row—knit 1, over, 1 intake, knit 1.

6th row—plain.

7th row—knit 2, over, 1 intake.

8th row—plain.

9th and 10th row—with the coarse thread: purl.

11th row—plain.

12th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together.

13th row—plain.

14th row—purl. Then repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES (fig. 387).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.

[Illustration: FIG. 387. KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30, Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

1st row—over, slip 3, knit 1, 2 overs, knit 3, 2 overs, knit 1.

2nd row—knit 3, slip the next, drop the 2 overs, knit 4, turn the work, purl 4, turn the work, knit 4, drop the 2 overs, slip the next stitch.

3rd row—over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the first of the 4 stitches, knit first the stitch that follows the second double over, then the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped stitch and knit it plain on the right side of the work.

4th row—knit plain.

5th row—over, slip 3, over, knit 6.

6th row—knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 388).—This pattern may be worked with any one of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. 387, but in the case of anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil à pointer D.M.C will be found more suitable. Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 18.

[Illustration: FIG. 388. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3.

Each row marked by an even number is to be knitted plain throughout.

3rd row—knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

5th row—knit 2, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together.

7th row—knit 3, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

9th row—knit 4, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2.

11th row—knit 5, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 6.

13th row—knit 7, over, knit 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 389).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.

1st row—2 overs, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5, knit 2 together.

2nd row—2 overs, slip the first over on to the right needle, knit the second over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together.

3rd row—2 overs, slip the overs of the two first rows on to the right needle, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—drop the overs of the 3 first rows and knit 8 double stitches, that is, knit 1 stitch on the over, slip it on to the left needle and knit it again.

These 8 stitches finished, make 2 overs, and slip 3, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over. Repeat from the beginning.

Each time you repeat the 4th row, make double stitches on 4 overs, that is, on 4 threads.

[Illustration: FIG. 389. KNITTING PATTERN.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, or Fil à pointer D.M.C]

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 390).—This pattern is suitable for children’s braces. For Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 6 to 20, which is the best for the purpose, you will require fine bone needles.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

1st row—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

3rd row—knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over.

4th row—slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, over.

5th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

6th row—knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1.

7th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

8th row—knit 2, knit 2 together, over.

Repeat from the beginning.

[Illustration: FIG. 390. KNITTING PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 5 to 20.]

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 391).—The patterns shown in figs. 391 and 392, are more particularly useful for comforters, shawls, hoods and the like. The needles, which may be either of bone or steel must match the cotton in size; steel needles are the best for any thing finer than No. 16, of D.M.C Coton à tricoter.

[Illustration: FIG. 391. KNITTING PATTERN.]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row—over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit the 2 next stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.

2nd row and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first, but note, that the stitch that was the third in the first row, will be the first here.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 392).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

[Illustration: FIG. 392. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row—over, knit the 2 first together, draw the 3rd stitch through the stitch formed by the intake and knit it off plain, then knit the stitch that was pulled over it.

2nd and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first; the third stitch here is the same that was drawn through the third stitch in the first row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 393).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 14.

[Illustration: FIG. 393. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3 together, purl 3, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 5, purl 7, knit 2.

3rd row—over, knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2.

4th row—knit 7, purl 5, knit 2.

5th row—over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 2.

6th row—knit 9, purl 3, knit 2.

7th row—over, knit 7, over, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.

8th row—knit 11, purl 1, knit 1.

Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is, purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 394).—Knitted lace looks best, made of a smooth, silky thread which shows up the pattern better than any other material. As a knitted edging makes a very pretty finish to almost any kind of knitted article, we give a selection of some of the easiest and most effective patterns that we consider suitable for the purpose.

[Illustration: FIG. 394. KNITTED LACE.