Part 21
Small petal on the left—21 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 3 half trebles, 5 trebles, 3 half trebles, 3 plain, 3 plain on the top. Repeat the same series of stitches in the reverse order on the second side = at the 10th stitch of the large petal and counting upwards from below, draw the thread through the 10th stitch of the small petal, and do the same through the 9 next stitches = for this purpose drop the loop each time and draw it back through the opposite stitch, from the wrong side to the right. After making the same petal on the right, fasten off; fasten on again at the outer edge and edge the 3 petals with 1 plain on each stitch and 3 plain on the stitch at the point; make 4 leaves with 3 petals each.
Between the pointed leaves, which are afterwards placed on the diagonal line of the square, come some very long leaves which are rounded towards the top—29 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches; carry on the trebles until you have, on coming to the last chain, 7 trebles = turn the work and make 1 plain on each stitch of the row = turn the work = 1 plain on every stitch all round = turn the work = * 9 plain, 4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 2 double trebles, join the last loops of the 2 last trebles together; set the 20th and 21st double treble on the same stitch = the 20th treble 2½ trebles long; the 21st a triple treble = on the next plain stitch; 1 treble 3½ trebles long and 1 quadruple treble = again on the next stitch: 2 trebles, the first of them 4½ trebles long, the 2nd a quintuple one = on the 3rd plain: 2 quintuple trebles, 4 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the 2nd row and next to the last quintuple treble, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 2 double trebles on one stitch, 2 triple trebles on one stitch **, 1 quadruple treble on the 2 next stitches. Repeat from ** to *, therefore in the reverse order.
To make the large star which is the first of the figures placed on the diagonal line, make: 4 chain, close the ring.
1st row—10 chain,* 1 double treble on the 4 chain, 5 chain. Repeat 4 times from *, 6 trebles in all.
2nd row—over 5 chain: 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long **, 1 triple treble. Repeat once from ** to * and 5 times from * to **.
3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.
4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1 = coming back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain = on the plain stitches of the 3rd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat from *, with this difference that the trebles that are placed over the half trebles of the 2nd row must begin with 3 chain. Make, altogether, 12 long bars, 6 of them beginning with 2 chain and 6 with 3; these bars remain empty; after the 12th you fasten off.
5th row—fasten on the thread to the top stitch of a treble, 11 chain, 1 plain. Repeat this series 11 times.
6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the 5th row, then 1 plain on each stitch of the 6th row.
8th row—over 9 bars and 8 spaces: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain and so on. Add nothing further to the 2 rows of plain stitches of the 10th, 11th and 12th picots.
For the second star of the corner figure 4 chain, close.
1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, * 5 chain, 1 treble. Repeat 3 times from *; 5 trebles in all, including the chain stitches.
2nd row—* 1 chain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble **. Repeat from ** to *, and the whole series 4 times.
3rd row—* 1 chain, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain = coming back, 4 plain on the 4 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = on the stitches of the 2nd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1, 4 plain = coming back: 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from *, fasten off.
4th row—fasten on at the point of one of the bars and make from one bar to the other: 9 chain, 1 plain on each bar.
5th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row.
6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row and join the 4 last stitches to the 4 that are under the 11th treble of the 1st star, taking care to put the trebles one above the other.
The 3rd star also begins with 4 chain formed into a ring.
1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, join them to the 4th of the 8 chain.
2nd row—2 chain, * 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble, 1½ treble long, 1 double treble **. Repeat from ** to * and then, 3 times from * to **.
3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.
4th row—1 chain, 2 plain, * 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain. Repeat 3 times from *; after the 8th picot: 3 chain.
5th row—15 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th and on the 2nd plain stitch between 2 picots, 9 chain, 1 triple treble and so on. Altogether, including the chain stitches, 8 trebles and 8 times 9 chain; join to the 7th chain.
6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous row; join the 4 last stitches again to the 4th stitch of the 2nd star and fasten off.
The open work border is made from the 1st large star, beginning near the 9th treble at the point where the picots leave off. After fastening on the thread: 5 chain, miss 2 plain, 1 plain on the 3rd = at the point where the circles meet, miss 3 or 4 stitches on each side and carry the treble over the indent of the scallop.
After finishing the picots of chain stitches on the two sides and as far as the 3rd treble of the large star, fasten off; fasten on again on the right of the large star: 4 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain; put the needle only through the 2 upper loops of the chain stitch; in the indent, connect 3 picots by 1 chain stitch; 2 chain and 1 plain between the next plain stitches. Fasten off. The 2 next rows both begin on the right and consist of plain stitches only; in the indent of the rings join 3 stitches of the preceding row together by 1 plain.
The 5 leaves over the circles—Begin with the middle and largest one—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain and so on, 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, passing under only 1 loop of the stitches = on the stitch you missed: 3 plain; on the second side: 1 plain on each stitch = turn the work = do as in the last row = turn the work = do as in the 2 last rows, excepting as regards the 5 last stitches which you leave untouched = turn the work = 15 plain, * 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = 12 plain on the 12 plain and on all those you missed **. Fasten off the thread. On the 2nd side of the leaf: draw the thread through the 6th stitch, counting upwards from below and on the side that is not indented, 15 plain and repeat from * to ** = then make: 1 row of plain, putting the needle through both the loops of the lower stitches = at the points of the leaves: 3 plain, in the indents of the leaves miss 1 stitch.
First leaf on the right of the large leaf—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, 18 stitches altogether, to the corner stitch; 3 plain on the corner stitch. The 2nd side is worked like the 1st.
Add 3 more rows of plain stitches and increase 3 plain on the stitch at the point = in the 3rd row leave the 5 last stitches empty = turn the work = 11 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 11 plain and 5 plain on the 5 stitches that were passed over; fasten off.
On the opposite side fasten on the thread on the wrong side at the 8th stitch counting from the point: 12 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = make plain stitches up to the end of the leaf and border it, like the large leaf, with plain stitches = join the 8 first stitches to the corresponding ones in the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.
2nd leaf on the left—19 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 plain on the stitch at the point = turn the work = 1 row of plain stitches = turn the work = 1 row of plain = turn the work = 1 row of plain, excepting on the last 7 stitches = turn the work = 14 plain, 1 chain = 3 more rows to and fro with 11 plain; fasten off, and fasten on again on the 2nd side at the 6th stitch counting from below: 2 rows of 11 plain and 1 row to the end of the leaf = then encircle this leaf, like the others with plain stitches, join the 8 last stitches to the last 8 of the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.
3rd leaf on the right—18 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 5 trebles in all = turn the work = 4 rows of plain worked to and fro; on the stitch at the point: 3 plain = after the 4th row: 4 trebles, 8 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, then plain stitches to the end = fasten off. On the second side, fasten on to the 6th stitch counting downwards from the top: 9 plain = coming back: 3 plain, 1 chain, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain, 1 chain = then to the end of the leaf, 1 plain on each stitch.
3rd leaf on the left—14 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble; 4 rows of plain all round, 3 plain on the stitch at the point, and 3 plain on the added stitch. After the 4th row: 14 plain = turn the work = 10 plain = turn the work = 3 single, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain = coming back again: 7 plain; after the last plain, 1 single on each plain up to the top = fasten off.
On the second side of the leaf: 9 plain = turn the work = 5 plain = turn the work = 5 plain, 1 single on each of the remaining stitches = turn the work = surround the whole leaf with plain stitches; 3 plain on each stitch at the point; join the 8 last stitches to the 8 last of the 2nd leaf.
Branch on the right and 1st leaf—28 chain, miss 1, 4 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, miss 2 stitches, 5 plain = on the second side of the chain: * 1 plain on each stitch, 3 plain on the 2nd of the missed stitches. Repeat 3 times from *. After the 4th row of plain: 6 chain = turn the work = 1 row of plain on both sides and plain stitches on the 6 chain; fasten off the thread. Counting back the last stitches, fasten on the thread at the 18th stitch, make one more row of plain, fasten off.
2nd leaf of the branch—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches; 4 rows of plain, to and fro, in each of the stitches of the last row. The rows touch, and therefore encircle the leaf.
3rd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches, 4 rows of plain, to and fro round the leaf; 3 plain on the stitch at the top of the leaf and 3 on the one at the bottom.
When these 3 leaves are finished, join them together on the wrong side so that the end of the 2nd leaf is parallel with the last treble of the 1st leaf, and the end of the 3rd leaf parallel with the 1st of the last plain stitches of the 2nd leaf. Having sewn these 3 leaves together, carry on the plain stitches with the thread of the 3rd little leaf over the two others. Fasten off the thread, join it on again at the 10th plain stitch of the 3rd little leaf, counting the stitches downwards from the top = 40 chain, 1 single on the 34th chain = on the ring: 10 plain, 1 plain each chain and 1 plain on each stitch of the leaves = then, make 3 more rows of plain and 2 plain on every second stitch of the 10 stitches in the ring.
Having reached the chain stitches, fasten on the thread, turn the work and continue the other rows. When the rows of plain stitches are finished, draw a thread through the chain stitches and pull them gently together.
Branch on the left and 1st leaf—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain, 2 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 1½ treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder the same as for the right leaf.
2nd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The rest the same as for the right leaf.
3rd leaf—12 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder, as well as the little ring, the same as for the right leaf. Make altogether 4 leaves for the right side and 4 for the left.
Calyx of the small flowers.—11 chain = turn the work = 1 plain on the first 5 chain, 3 plain on the 6th chain, 1 plain on the 5 other chain = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, ** 3 trebles on the second of the 3 plain, on the 6th chain, repeat once from ** to * = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 single on the added stitch = turn the work = 1 single on the first 2 plain; plain stitches as far as the middle stitch; 13 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each chain stitch, 6 plain, 2 single. Fasten off. Make 8 calices in all.
Small flowers of three different sizes—Make altogether, 24 large, 12 of medium size, and 16 small.
For the large flowers—18 chain, close the ring, 24 plain on the 18 chain; 1 plain on every stitch of the preceding row and 1 picot after every second plain stitch. Join the first and the last picots of 2 large flowers to the calyx, the 2nd and the 3rd picots of one large flower to the 10th and 11th picots of the other. Join the 1st and 11th picots of the 3rd flower to the 8th picot of the first and to the 5th of the second flower.
For the medium-sized flowers—14 chain, close the ring = 20 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain with 1 picot after every second plain stitch.
These flowers connect the centre figure with the corner one.
For the small flowers—10 chain, close the ring = 16 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain stitches with a picot after every second stitch. Sew the medium-sized flowers and the small ones to the big ones with overcasting stitches.
As regards the bars of chain stitches that complete the pattern they can easily be copied from the illustration.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
[Illustration: TATTED INSERTION.—DOUBLE KNOTS, SINGLE PICOTS AND JOSEPHINE PICOTS.]
Tatting.
On account of a similarity in their construction, a chapter on tatting seems to form a natural sequence to the one on crochet and is in some ways a preparation for that on macramé which succeeds it.
The English name of tatting is said to be derived from «tatters» and to denote the frail disconnected character of the fabric. By the Italians it was formerly called «occhi», whilst in the East it still bears the name of «makouk», from the shuttle used in making it.
In the eighteenth century, when tatting was in great vogue, much larger shuttles than our present ones were used, because of the voluminous materials they had to carry, silk cord being one.
SHUTTLES.—The tatting shuttle consists of two oval blades of either bone, ivory, mother of pearl or tortoise-shell, pointed at both ends, and joined together in the middle. A good shuttle contributes materially to the rapid and perfect execution of the work and attention should be paid in its selection to the following particulars: that it be not more than 7 c/m. long and 2 or 3 c/m. wide: that the two ends be close enough to prevent the thread from protruding; this is more especially important in tatting with two shuttles and lastly, that the centre piece that joins the two oval blades together should have a hole bored in it, large enough for the thread to pass through.
In filling the shuttle, be careful not to wind on too much thread at once, or the blades will gape open at the ends and the thread get soiled by constant contact with the worker’s hands.
MATERIALS.—A strongly twisted thread such as Fil d’Alsace D.M.C, Fil à dentelle D.M.C, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, is best for tatting. We
## particularly recommend Fil d’Alsace, as forming the best shaped knots
and picots. A soft material such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C, can also be used where it suits the purpose better.
[Illustration: FIG. 486. FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS.]
FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 486).—The construction of the knots or stitches, appears at first sight to present great difficulties but will be easily mastered by attention to the indications here given. One thing, to be constantly borne in mind is, that when the right hand has passed the shuttle through the loop, it must stop with a sudden jerk and hold the thread tightly extended until the left hand has drawn up the knot. After filling the shuttle, take the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and the shuttle in the right, pass the thread over the third and fourth fingers of the left hand, bring it back towards the thumb and cross the two threads under the fingers, as indicated in fig. 486. Pass the thread that comes from the shuttle round the little finger of the right hand, and give the shuttle the direction shown in the engraving.
SECOND AND THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS (figs. 487 and 488).—Make the shuttle pass between the first and third fingers, in the direction indicated by the arrow in fig. 487, and bring it out behind the loop.
[Illustration: FIG. 487. SECOND POSITION OF THE HANDS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 488. THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS.]
Here the first difficulties for beginners arise and until they have sufficiently mastered the movements of both hands not to confuse them, we advise them to pay careful attention to the following instructions. As soon as you have put the shuttle through the loop, place the right hand on the table with the thread tightly extended, leaving the left hand perfectly passive.
Then, raising the third and fourth fingers of the left hand with the loop upon them, pull up the loop, stretching the thread tightly in so doing by extending the fingers. By this movement a knot is formed, the first part of the «double knot», which is the most common one in tatting.
Remember that the right hand must be kept perfectly still as long as the left is in motion and that the knot must be formed of the loop thread that is in the left hand.
The right hand, or shuttle thread, must always be free to run through the knots; if it were itself formed into knots it would not have the free play, needed for loosening and tightening the loop on the left hand, as required.
[Illustration: FIG. 489. FOURTH POSITION OF THE HANDS.]
FOURTH POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 489).—The second part of a knot is formed by the following movements: pass the shuttle, as indicated in fig. 489, from left to right, between the first and third fingers through the extended loop; the right hand seizes the shuttle in front of the empty loop and extends the thread; the left hand pulls up this second part of the knot as it did the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 490. SINGLE OR HALF KNOTS. SMALL JOSEPHINE PICOT.]
[Illustration: FIG. 491. SINGLE OR HALF KNOTS. LARGE JOSEPHINE PICOT.]
SINGLE OR HALF KNOTS. JOSEPHINE PICOTS (figs. 490 and 491).—The Josephine picot or purl, as it is also called in tatting, consists of a series of single or half knots formed of the first knot only. These picots may be made of 4 or 5 knots, as in fig. 490, or of 10 or 12 knots, as in fig. 491.