Part 14

[Illustration: FIG. 438. PLAIN CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY PATTERN.]

METHOD FOR COPYING TAPESTRY PATTERNS IN CROCHET WORK (figs. 437 and 438).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.

The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain stitches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.

The squares formed by the chain stitches should always begin and end with a treble.

When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.

Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain stitches, worked in rows to and fro.

When only three colours are used, pass two threads under the stitches; when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.

[Illustration: FIG. 439. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID).]

[Illustration: FIG. 440. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID). MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12 or Cordonnet 6 fil D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10. Soutache D.M.C No. 2 or 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 2 to 5. COLOURS: The cotton, white or écru. The Soutache or Lacet: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Rouge-Grenat 326, or Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]

CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID) (figs. 439 and 440).—These are two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for crochet work before.

Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red braid passes over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2 trebles, and passed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting stitch between the rows of stitches.

CROCHET SQUARE (fig. 441).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.

[Illustration: FIG. 441. CROCHET SQUARE.]

When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.

[Illustration: FIG. 442. CROCHET HEXAGON.]

CROCHET HEXAGON (fig. 442).—Make a foundation chain of 6 stitches, join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1 single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.

COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND (fig. 443).—Begin with 3 chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3 chain; then for the foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread, and 1 with the light on each of the 6 plain.

In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more, increasing regularly, that is, making 2 stitches on the last light stitch that comes before the dark ones.

Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only one dark stitch remaining.

These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for lamps, etc.

[Illustration: FIG. 423. COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND.]

TUNISIAN CROCHET.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in knitting.

MATERIALS—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected, such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.

As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked on the right side.

[Illustration: FIG. 444. PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]

PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on, until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.

[Illustration: FIG. 445. STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]

STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 445).—Worked thus: miss the first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same manner as the second row of the preceding figure.

[Illustration: FIG. 446. SLANTING PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]

DIAGONAL PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 446).—Worked like the preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.

OPEN TUNISIAN STITCH.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.

DECREASING AND INCREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 447). Our illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form scallops.

[Illustration: FIG. 447. DECREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]

You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first on the right and then on the left.

HAIRPIN CROCHET (figs. 448, 449, 450).—So called because it is worked on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme Besson, of Paris, are also used.

Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.

MATERIALS.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton à tricoter D.M.C, and for producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C are to be taken.

[Illustration: FIG. 448. STEEL HAIRPIN FOR CROCHET.]

[Illustration: FIG. 449. WOODEN FORK FOR CROCHET.]

[Illustration: FIG. 450. FORK WITH SEVERAL PRONGS FOR CROCHET.]

STITCHES.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it through, tighten the loops and so on.

These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.

[Illustration: FIG. 451. HAIRPIN INSERTION.

MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 4 to 15, white or écru.[A]]

HAIRPIN INSERTION (fig. 451).—Begin by making stripes with the fork, covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.

[Illustration: FIG. 452. HAIRPIN LACE

MATERIALS—For the hairpin work: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, white or écru. For the edge. Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30.

COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Jaune-Rouille 364, or Brun-Marron 406.[A]]

HAIRPIN LACE (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1 plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the 2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zigzag in the middle.

1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.

2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in fig. 451.

[Illustration: FIG. 453. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.]

HAIRPIN FRINGES (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as one.

The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the fringe will be.

[Illustration: FIG. 454. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16.[A]

COLOURS: Écru and Jaune-Rouille 363, 368, or Gris-Tilleul 331 and Rouge-Cornouille 449 and 450, or three other shades.[A]]

Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.

Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of écru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.

[Illustration: FIG. 455. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH ONE LINE OF BALLS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 456. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TWO LINES OF BALLS, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER.

MATERIALS—For the crochet-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30. For the balls: Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 8 to 16.]

The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots. The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them, to form two parallel lines.

If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be filled.

The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.

FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR BRAID (fig. 457).—This is an easy fringe to make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths, curtains etc., which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.

Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse écru twist, the light stitch in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made of the same material.

In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern, you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches. Repeat from *.

[Illustration: FIG. 457. FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR SOUTACHE (BRAID).

MATERIALS: Lacet D.M.C No. 4 or Soutache D.M.C NO. 2½ in red. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10. Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, écru.[A]]

[Illustration: FIG. 458. LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 50, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 80, white[A] and Point Lace braid.]

LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID (fig. 458).—For the rounds: 1 plain on the braid, 10 chain, then coming back, 1 single on the 4th chain.

In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12 trebles *, 1 half-treble, 1 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain; 3 chain, 1 single on the braid, far enough from the 1st chain for the rounds not to overlap each other. Then 10 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain, 1 single, 1 half-treble, 4 trebles, join to the first round between the 8th and 9th trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the footing: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss a few threads of the edge of the braid, 1 treble.

[Illustration: FIG. 459. CROCHET GUIPURE LACE.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 70 to 90. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 80 to 120, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70.]

CROCHET GUIPURE LACE (fig. 459).—This charming little lace makes a very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made on a row of trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on a mignardise, after you have raised the picots of it by single and chain stitches.

6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6 bars of the point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid: 6 plain stitches, very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the 7th of the 9 chain, 10 chain, 1 single on the 3d of the 9 chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close to the first of the first 6 plain.

1st scallop—7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain; on the 5th chain: 6 plain; on the 8th chain: 3 plain.

2nd scallop—on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain = on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain.

3rd scallop—like the first, then repeat from *.

[Illustration: FIG. 460. LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID.

MATERIALS: The same as for 458.]

LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID (fig. 460).—On the braid, work a row of trebles, 1 or 2 chain stitches apart, according to the size of the braid and on this row of trebles, make two other rows as follows:

1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the treble of the preceding row, 5 chain, 1 treble, on the same stitch to which the first treble is joined, 5 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble on the 4th treble of the row beneath.

2nd row—1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 first chain, 3 plain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches between the two trebles of the first row that come close together; 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain.

[Illustration: FIG. 461. CROCHET LACE.

MATERIALS: Lacet superfin D.M.C No. 14 and Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70.[A]]

CROCHET LACE (fig. 461).—1st row—3 plain close together, in the braid; * 13 chain, join to the 1st plain. On each of the first 6 chain; 1 plain; = on the 7th chain: 3 plain, then on the other chain stitches: 6 plain. In the braid: 7 plain and repeat from *.

2nd row—* miss 2 plain of the first row, 5 plain to reach the 2nd stitch added in the first row, 4 plain on the 2nd added stitch, 4 plain on the next stitches. Repeat from *.

For an insertion, drop the thread after the 2nd of the 4 stitches that are to be made at the point, then put the needle into the stitch of the finished stripe, take up the thread again, draw it through the stitch and proceed to the second side of the scallop.

[Illustration: FIG. 462. CROCHET LACE WITH MIGNARDISE.

MATERIALS—According to the mignardise used. Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A]]

CROCHET LACE WITH MIGNARDISE (fig. 462).—This and all the patterns that follow, up to fig. 473, make very useful trimmings for all kinds of underclothing. Begin by raising the picots on both sides of the mignardise by: 1 plain stitch and 1 chain.

The rows of crochet work between, consist of: 1 treble on 1 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 picots of the mignardise, 1 treble between the 3rd and 4th picot.

Work the edge in two rows.

1st row—1 treble between 2 picots, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, 1 treble.

2nd row—1 treble on 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 3 trebles, 7 chain, turn back and join to the 1st of the 3 trebles, 2 chain, join them to the 2nd treble, 2 trebles on the 7 chain; keep the last loops of the last treble on the needle and join them to those of the next treble.

[Illustration: FIG. 463. LACE WITH TWO ROWS OF LEAVES.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 20 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 100.]

LACE WITH TWO ROWS OF LEAVES (fig. 463).—This is one of the pleasantest crochet patterns to work that we know. The leaves are made separately and fastened into a foundation with thread, at least two numbers finer than that of which the leaves are made.

Leaf with 5 petals: 8 chain, make a ring = 2 plain on the ring = 1st petal * 11 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble on the 8th chain, 1 chain, miss the 7th chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 4th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 2 chain, 2 plain on the ring.

2nd petal: 15 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1 chain, 1 treble *. Repeat 4 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, 2 trebles on the ring.

3rd petal: 21 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble *. Repeat 7 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, miss 1, 2 trebles in the ring.

The 4th petal to be worked like the 3rd; the 5th like the 1st.

When the 5 petals are finished, make 2 plain stitches on the ring; then on the chain stitches of the 1st petal: 2 plain, 7 trebles, 2 trebles on the 10th stitch; then descending again: 7 trebles, 2 plain and 3 single on the 3 plain stitches of the ring.