Chapter 10 of 32 · 3880 words · ~19 min read

Part 10

_Market_ Saturday. A stock market held on the 1st and 3rd Tuesday in every month.--_Fairs_ May 17, and August 2, for wool; September 9, October 12, and 24, for horses, cattle and pedlary.--_Inns_, George, Royal Oak, and Saracen's Head.--_Bankers_, G. and W. Jemmett, draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.15 afternoon.

[Sidenote: Origin of the town of Ashford.]

[Sidenote: The college made into a parsonage house:]

[B] ASHFORD. This place was originally called Exeford, from its ford over the river Exe; the village is now but of little importance. It lies in that level part of the county, formerly occupied by Hounslow Heath, the terror of the western traveller, from the numerous robberies committed on its highways. Ashford Common was selected for military reviews; it has however, for some years been inclosed, and the review ground is now near Hounslow. The chapel is a plain brick building, possessing no claims on the attention of the antiquary; it was erected in 1796 by voluntary contribution.

[Sidenote: Hounslow Heath.]

[C] ASHILL.--_Fairs_, April 9, and September 10.

[D] ASHINGDON. This place is memorable in the early periods of our history. "Nothing is more surprising," observes Gough, in his Additions to Camden, "than the errors all antiquaries have hitherto lain under with respect to the scene of the battle between Edmund Ironside and the Danes." Though they had the authority of Mr. Camden against them, they have caried it quite across the county to the northern extremity and as far from the sea as possible, in defiance of every circumstance that could fix it there. In a marsh in Woodham Mortimer parish, on the river Burnham or Crouch, are twenty-four barrows grouped in pairs, and most of them surrounded by a ditch, supposed to be the burial places of the Danes, who probably landed at Bradwell, a village near the mouth of the Blackwater River, fourteen miles distant.

[Sidenote: The site of an engagement between Edm. Ironside and the Danes.]

[A] ASHLEY, was formerly distinguished by a fair and market, it is now remarkable only for a large mansion, which was once the seat of the Georges. The church, an ancient building, with a square embattled tower, is principally interesting for its arches; some of which are round, and others pointed, resting on slender clustered pillars, with massy capitals of foliage. The font is large, round, and very rude in its workmanship.

[B] ASHOVER. This village is of great antiquity, being mentioned in the Doomsday Book, as having a church and a priest. In the church is an ancient font, supposed to be Saxon; the base is of stone; the lower part is of an hexagonal form; the upper part circular, surrounded with twenty figures, in devotional attitudes, embossed in lead, in ornamental niches. There are also some ancient monuments of the Babington family, who were for a long time seated at Dithicke, a chapelry in this parish. Anthony Babington was executed for high treason in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, having engaged in a conspiracy to destroy that princess. On the declivity of a hill on Ashover Common is a rocking stone, called Robin Hood's Mark, which measures about twenty-six feet in circumference. From its extraordinary position, it appears not only to have been the work of art, but to have been placed with great ingenuity. About 200 yards to the north is a singularly shaped work, called the Turning-stone, nine feet high: it is supposed to have been a rock idol. Overton Hall, in this vicinity, was once the seat of Sir Joseph Banks, the President of the Royal Society.

[Sidenote: A singular rocking stone, formerly an idol.]

[C] ASHRIDGE was formerly called Escrug. In very early times this village is reported to have possessed a royal palace; which, when the estate became the property of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, son to Richard, King of the Romans, was converted into a college for Bonhommes (or monks who followed the rules of St. Augustine,) and endowed with the manors of Ashridge, Gaddesden, and Hemel Hempstead. A parliament was held here by Edward the First, in the year 1291; and, though of short continuance, it was distinguished by a spirited debate on the origin and necessary use of fines. After the dissolution, the monastery appears to have become the seat of royalty; and Norden describes it as the place "wherein our most worthy and ever famous Queen Elizabeth lodged, as in her owne, being a more statelie house." This queen, in the 17th year of her reign, granted it to John Dudley, and John Ayscough, who within the short period of a fortnight, conveyed it to Henry, Lord Cheny, whose lady sold it to Ralph Marshal, by whom it was again conveyed to Randolph Crew and others, and soon afterwards granted to Egerton, Lord Ellesmere, ancestor to the late Duke of Bridgewater; several of whose family are buried in the neighbouring church of Little Gaddesden. The old college, the greater part of which was standing in the year 1800, exhibited a fine specimen of the gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. The cloisters were particularly beautiful. The walls were painted in fresco with Scripture subjects. The late Duke of Bridgewater pulled down the whole of these buildings, the materials of which were disposed of in lots; the present earl, the dukedom being extinct, has erected a most magnificent mansion at a great expense. Ashridge Park, which contains some very fine oak and beech trees, is pleasingly varied with hill and dale. It is about five miles in circumference.

[Sidenote: A parliament held here by Edward I.]

[Sidenote: The manor house a favourite seat of Queen Elizabeth.]

[A] ASHTON. Near this village is Ashton Hall, a seat of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton. It formerly belonged to the family of the Laurences, but came into the present family by the marriage of James, Earl of Arran, afterwards Duke of Hamilton, with Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Lord Gerrard Digby, of Bromley. The mansion is a large building, with some square embattled towers, an ancient hall, and other features of a magnificent baronial castle. It is situated in a fine park, through which flows a small rivulet, forming a narrow bay, at the western side of the grounds. The park abounds with wood, and is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, and affords, from many parts, extensive views across the river Lune to Morecambe Bay, the Irish sea, &c. The mansion has undergone considerable alteration, yet care has been taken to preserve its ancient character.

_Mail_ arrives at Galgate Bridge, one mile distant, 9.20 P.M.; departs 2.20 morn.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Hamilton.]

[B] ASHTON, or LONG ASHTON, is situated in a rich woody vale, protected on the north by a range of picturesque though bleak hills, and on the north lies the lofty ridge of Dundry. In this parish the inhabitants raise fruit and vegetables for the Bristol market. There is much garden-ground in Long Ashton, in which many Roman coins have been discovered. The houses are in general well-built, much company resorting thither during the summer season. The circumjacent scenery is delightful, and in the vicinity are the remains of two Roman encampments, Stokeleigh and Burwalls. The church is an old but very handsome building, founded by the family of Lyons; the nave and aisles are divided from the chancel by a beautiful gothic screen of fret and flower work, painted and gilt, and executed in the most admirable style. One of the 6 bells contained in the tower is inscribed "Sancte Johannes Baptiste ora pro nobis;" on the tower are the arms of Lyons, in stone. Amongst several painted figures and coats of arms on the glass of the windows, are the portraits of Edward IV. and his Queen, Elizabeth Widville. Here are several handsome monuments, but that of Sir Richard Choke and his lady is eminently magnificent and beautiful. Ashton Court, the manor house, originally founded by the Lyons family, but materially altered by Inigo Jones, occupies the S.E. slope of Ashton Down, and the remains of another old manor house, called the Lower Court, still stands in a valley to the S.W. of the village.

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From +--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+ 22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Lancaster|Manchester 7|Stockport 7| 22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | | | o & chap } |Lancaster|Newton 3|Prescot 7| 7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | | | to & pa } |Chester |Stockport 9|Manchester 7| +--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ 22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Mottram 5| 186| 33597| 22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | | | o & chap } |Wigan 5| 196| 5912| 7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | | | to & pa } |Altringham 4| 184| 2078| +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE is a large town situated at the south-eastern extremity of the county. It consists of several narrow streets, built on a high bank, which rises from the river Tame. It appears from an ancient manuscript, that Ashton was formerly a borough, yet for some centuries it sent no members to Parliament; but, by the Reform Bill of 1832, it now returns one member, and the mayor of the town is the returning officer. The borough comprises the whole district, over which the lighting and paving act of the 7th and 8th of Geo. IV. extends. A court is held here for the recovery of debts, not exceeding five pounds, by 48th Geo. III. c. 18; any person may sue, under the general regulations, and defendants sued elsewhere are to have their costs. Defendants removing out of the jurisdiction, may be followed in person and goods, by removing the record to the superior courts, but wagers, &c. are not recoverable. The principal part of the landed property of this parish belongs to the Earl of Stamford, in whose family it was conveyed, by the marriage of Sir William Booth to the daughter of Sir Thomas Asheton, whose family possessed some peculiar privileges in this manor: among which was, the power of life and death over their tenantry. In commemoration of this privilege, and its having been sometimes exercised, a field near the old hall is still called Gallows Meadow. There is also an ancient custom here, called "riding the black lad," celebrated every Easter Monday, to perpetuate some act of great tyranny exercised by Sir Ralph Asheton, in 1483, when vice-constable of England. The ceremony consists in exhibiting the effigies of a man on horseback through the streets, which is afterwards suspended on the cross in the market place, and there shot. The figure was formerly cased in armour, and the expenses of it were defrayed by the court. Another account of the origin of this custom states, that Thomas Asheton, in the reign of Henry III., particularly distinguished himself at the battle of Neville's Cross, and bore away the standard from the Scotch King's tent. For this heroic deed the King conferred on Ashton the honour of Knighthood, who, on his arrival at his manor instituted the custom described. At the village of Fairfield, in this parish, there is a Moravian settlement, who have erected a chapel for their followers. The males are principally employed in spinning and weaving: they form a very industrious and orderly community. On the western side of the town is Ashton Moss, which supplies the poor with peat turf. Oak and fir trees are frequently found by those who dig for the peat.

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, March 23, April 29, July 25, and November 21, for horned cattle, horses, and toys.--_Bankers_, Buckley, Roberts, and Co.; draw in London on Jones, Lloyd, and Co.--_Inn_, Commercial Hotel.

[Sidenote: Court of Requests for the recovery of L5. Defendants may be followed.]

[Sidenote: The lord of the manor possessed a power of life and death.]

[Sidenote: Custom of riding the black lad.]

[Sidenote: Moravian settlement.]

[B] ASHTON. This village is generally called Ashton in Makerfield, or Ashton in the Willows; it enjoys a very pleasant situation on the road between Newton and Wigan. The hardware and cotton manufactories give employment to the inhabitants. The church is a large old building, part of which appears to have been erected by the lords of the manor. On the pews are some ancient carvings; and in the windows are exhibited some painted figures. Several of the Ashtons lie interred here, and their names are inscribed on the windows. Near the church is a curious mansion, called the Old Hall, the oldest parts of which are said to have been built in 1483; adjoining this stands a pile, which was formerly used as a prison.

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+ 41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Wilts |Trowbridge 3|Melksham 4| 41|Ashton, West to|Wilts | ... 3| ... 5| 21|Ashurst pa|Kent |Tunbridge 7|Tunbr. Wells 5| 38|Ashurst pa|Sussex |Steyning 4|Henfield 3| 11|Ashwater pa|Devon |Holsworthy 7|Oakhampton 14| 18|Ashwell[B] pa|Herts |Baldock 4|Royston 6| 32|Ashwell pa|Rutland |Oakham 4|Cottesmere 3| 27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Norfolk |Wymondham 3|Attleburgh 7| 34|Ashwick pa|Somerset |Shepton Mall 4|Frome 9| 27|Ashwicken pa|Norfolk |Lynn 5|Castle Rising 5| 35|Ashwood ham|Stafford |Stourbridge 4|Dudley 3| 22|Ashworth chap|Lancaster|Rochdale 3|Bury 3| 43|Aske to|N.R. York|Richmond 2|Reeth 8| +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ 41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Devizes 7| 96| 1754| 41|Ashton, West to| ... 9| 98| 374| 21|Ashurst pa|Groombridge 2| 34| 206| 38|Ashurst pa|W. Grinstead 4| 47| 423| 11|Ashwater pa|Launceston 8| 209| 862| 18|Ashwell[B] pa|Biggleswade 6| 41| 1072| 32|Ashwell pa|Overton 3| 99| 209| 27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Buckenham 7| 100| 471| 34|Ashwick pa|Wells 6| 118| 995| 27|Ashwicken pa|Swaffham 10| 98| 80| 35|Ashwood ham|Wolverhamp. 6| 123| ...| 22|Ashworth chap|Manchester 11| 192| 294| 43|Aske to|Darlington 11| 235| 105| +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+

[A] ASHTON, or STEEPLE ASHTON is remarkable for its lofty and elegant church, which was built about the year 1480, though the chapels and a part of the chancel appear of a still earlier date. The tower which is high and handsome, was formerly surmounted by a spire or steeple, whence the village had its distinctive appellation. An inscription informs us that, in the year 1670, the spire being in height 93 feet above the tower, was rent by a violent thunder storm, and that in the same year, being almost re-erected, it was by a second storm again destroyed. The roof of the nave is formed by intersecting arches, which rest on canopied niches, adorned with whole length figures or flowers; and that of the aisles is profusely decorated with sculpture and tracery work, while the windows display some splendid remains of painted glass, the whole corresponding with the exterior in style and effect. Plot informs us that there was dug up at Steeple Ashton, a pavement, which he considered to be Roman, though different in materials and design from those commonly regarded as such. The Madrepore stone is found among the fossil productions of Ashton. Rowd Ashton, the seat of Richard Godolphin Long, Esq., is situated in a large and well wooded park. The Kennet and Avon canal from London to Bristol passes near this village.

[Sidenote: The church steeple twice thrown down by storms.]

[B] ASHWELL. This village, situate on the river Rhee, on the borders of Cambridgeshire, derives its present name from Escewelle, and is supposed by Camden to be of Roman origin, from the frequent discovery of Roman coins, and sepulchral urns, in an adjacent earthwork, or fortification, called Arbury banks. It is in a low situation on the northern edge of the county. Here a considerable spring breaks out from a rocky bank overhung with lofty ash-trees, from which a continued quantity of water flows, and being quickly collected into one channel, turns a mill, and soon after becomes a river. From this spring and these ash-trees, it is supposed the Saxons gave it the name of Ashwell. The village was anciently a demesne of the Saxon kings; but before the time of Edward the Confessor, it was granted to the Abbots of St. Peter's, at Westminster, to whom it continued to belong till the dissolution, when the Abbey was erected into a deanery, and after that into a bishopric; it, however, followed the fate of similar foundations; and when the bishopric was dissolved, in the reign of Edward VI., it was granted, with other manors, to the see of London, in which it is still invested. The church consists of a nave, aisle, and chancel, with a tower at the west-end, surmounted by a spire. In the chancel are several slabs, formerly inlaid with brasses. Among the inscriptions, Weever notices one with the words, "Orate pro--Walter Sommoner." "I reade," says Weever, "that one Walter Sumner held the manor of Ashwell of the King, by pettie sergeantie; viz. to find the king spits to rost his meate upon the day of his coronation: and John Sumner, his sonne, held the same manor by service, to turne a spit in the king's kitchen upon the day of his coronation."

[Sidenote: Powerful spring oozing from a rock.]

[A] ASKERNE. This village is one of the numerous places in the West Riding, which enjoys the distinction of a mineral spring. The water resembles that of Harrowgate Spa; but taken internally, differs materially in its operation, acting chiefly as a diuretic without any of that cathartic or purgative power, for which the Harrowgate waters are so remarkable. The village is situated at the foot of a hill; the spring rises at the distance of a few yards only from a piece of water called Askerne Pool, seven acres in extent, and is much frequented by rheumatic or scorbutic patients, who seldom fail to obtain the relief which they seek. Near this place it is said the British Prince Ambrosius defeated and put to death the fierce Saxon leader Hengist.

[Sidenote: The Saxon leader Hengist put to death.]

[B] ASKERTON. At this village there is a castle which was built by the Barons Dacre. This well known name is derived from the exploits of one of their ancestors at the siege of Acre, or Ptolemais, under Richard Coeur de Lion. There were two powerful branches of that name. The first family, called Lord Dacres of the South, held the castle of the same name, and are ancestors to the present Lord Dacre. The other family, descended from the same stock, were called Lord Dacres of the North, and were Barons of Gillesland and Graystock. A chieftain of the latter branch was warden of the West Marshes, during the reign of Edward VI. He was a man of a hot and obstinate character, as appears from some

## particulars of Lord Surrey's letter to Henry VIII., giving an account of

his behaviour at the siege and storm of Jedburgh. The castle was formerly garrisoned by the Serjeant of Gillesland, who sometimes commanded and led the inhabitants against the Scots.

[Sidenote: Seat of Lord Dacre.]

[C] ASKHAM. This place consists of two manors. The hall, built in 1574, on the river Lowther, has an embattled roof, and a sombre aspect well suited to the gloom of the surrounding scenery. Several remarkable heaps of stones, among which, one is called the Druid's Cross, are in this neighbourhood; and also a large cairn, called the White-raise.

_Mail_ arrives at Lowther 1-1/2 miles distant 2.30 morning; departs 8 evening.

[Sidenote: Druid's Cross.]

[D] ASKRIGG. This ancient market town is situated near the river Ure and Swaledale Forest: it resembles a large village, and the occupations of the inhabitants are principally the knitting of stockings and making butter or cheese. It is remarkable, chiefly, for some considerable cataracts in its neighbourhood: as Millgill Force, a fall of from twenty to thirty yards; Whitfields Force, a grand specimen of the picturesque; and Hardrow Force, where the water falls in one grand sheet from a perpendicular height of one hundred feet. This town is one of the polling places appointed under the Reform Bill of 1832, for the North Riding.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, May 10, horned cattle; May 12, and first Thursday in June, woollen cloth, pewter, brass, and milliners' goods; October 28, horned cattle; October 29, woollens, &c.

[Sidenote: Cataract 100 feet in height.]