Chapter 29 of 32 · 3375 words · ~17 min read

Part 29

[A] BERKHAMPSTEAD. "The Saxons, in old time," observes Norden, "called this town Berghamstedt, because it was seated among the hills; for Berg signified a hill; ham, a town; and stedt, a seat; all of which was very proper for the situation hereof." The buildings are chiefly of brick, and irregular, but intersected with various handsome houses. Berkhampstead consists of one principal street, about half a mile in length, extending along the side of the high road; and another smaller one branching out from the church towards the site of the castle. The Grand Junction Canal runs the whole length of the town, and very close to it, which makes it a place of considerable trade. Many respectable and genteel families reside here, and hold their monthly balls at the King's Arms Inn, during the winter. The King of Mercia had a palace or castle here; and the town had attained sufficient importance at the time of the Conquest, to be appointed as the place of meeting between the Norman sovereign, and the chiefs of the confederacy formed against his power, and headed by Abbot Fretheric, of St. Alban's. "In the brough," says the Domesday Book, "are two and fifty burgesses, who pay four pounds a year for toll; and they have half a hide, and two shillings rent, common of pasture for the cattle, wood to feed a thousand hogs, and five shillings rent by the year. Its whole value is sixteen pounds. The castle erected by the Saxons was enlarged, strengthened, and fortified with additional outworks, by the Earl of Mortaigne; but in the time of his son and successor, William, who had rebelled against Henry I., it was seized, and ordered to be razed to the ground." It is probable, however, that the demolition was only partial, as it was again fitted up as a royal residence, either in the time of Stephen, or early in the reign of Henry II. The castle and honour of Berkhampstead continued in the possession of the crown till the seventh of King John, who granted them to the Earl of Essex, for L100. per annum. In the year 1216 the castle, which had been reverted to the crown, was besieged by Lewis, Dauphin of France, in conjunction with certain English barons. The garrison, taking advantage of the negligence of the besiegers, made two successful sallies on the same day, capturing divers chariots, arms, and provisions; but, after a siege of some continuance, they surrendered. Henry III. granted the Earldom of Cornwall, with the honour and castle of Berkhampstead, to Richard, his brother, for his services at the siege of the castle of Riole, in France; but, disagreeing with him, he revoked the grant. The interposition of the Earls of Pembroke and Chester occasioned its restoration to the Earl of Cornwall. In 1245, the King granted him an annual fair, of eight days' continuance, for his manor of Berkhampstead; and here, after a long illness, he died on the 4th of April, 1272. Edmund, his only surviving son, succeeded to his estates and titles; and in his time there were twelve burgesses within the borough, with fifty-two free tenants, and twenty-two tenants by serjeancy. This Earl founded the college of Bon-Hommes, at Ashridge, in Buckinghamshire. In the fourth of Edward III., John of Eltham, brother to the King, had a grant of Berkhampstead, with other manors, to the value of 2,000 marks per annum: but, dying without issue, in 1336, his estates were granted by the King, to Edward the Black Prince, with the Dukedom of Cornwall, to be held by him and his heirs, and the eldest sons of the heirs of the King's of England. Richard II. occasionally resided at Berkhampstead castle. Since that period, the castle and honour of Berkhampstead have descended from the crown, to the successive Princes of Wales, as heirs apparent to the throne, and possessors of the Dukedom of Cornwall, under the grant of Edward III. The castle was situated on the east side of the town; and, though the buildings are now reduced to a few massive fragments of wall, the remains are still sufficient to evince the ancient strength and importance of this fortress. The ramparts are very bold, and the ditches still wide and deep, particularly on the north and east sides, though partly filled up by the lapse of centuries. The keep was a circular tower, occupying the summit of a high and steep artificial mount, moated round. Large trees are now growing on the sides of the mount, as well as on many parts of the outward rampart, and declivities of the ditches: other parts are covered with underwood, in many places so thick as to be impassable. The inner court is now an orchard; the outer court is cultivated as a farm; and a small cottage, with a few out-buildings, now occupies a portion of the ground once occupied by Princes and Sovereigns. Near the rampart, on the west side, flows the little river Bulbourne. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is built in the form of a cross, with a tower rising from the intersection towards the west end, and having a projecting staircase at the south-east angle, terminated by a turret at the summit. The tower is supported on strong pointed arches, and was originally open, but is now closed from the church by the belfry floor. On the outside of the tower, next the street, is a sculpture of an angel supporting a shield, impaled with the arms of England and France quarterly. The same arms are painted on glass in the window of a small chapel within the church. Various chapels and chantries were founded here in the Catholic times, and are still partially divided from the body of the church. The sepulchral memorials are numerous. Between two columns of the nave, surrounded by pews, is an ancient tomb of rich workmanship, having on the top, full-length effigies of a Knight and his Lady, both recumbent. The Knight is represented in armour, with his hands raised in the attitude of prayer across his breast: his head rests on a helmet, having a human head, with a long beard, at the upper end; his feet are supported on a lion: he has on a hood and gorget of mail; and, on the sash, which crosses his body and shoulder, is a rose: opposite to this, on his breast-plate, is a dove. The figure of the lady is greatly mutilated; her hands and head are broken off; the latter rests on a cushion, and is covered with net-work; she is arrayed in a close dress, and has a rose on each shoulder. No inscription is remaining on this tomb to designate the persons to whose memory it was erected. Torynton is supposed to have been the founder of the church; a man in special favour with Edmond Plantagenet, Duke of Cornwall. In Sayer's chancel is an altar-tomb of alabaster and black marble, in the memory of John Sayer, Esq., who was chief cook to Charles II. when in exile, and founder of the alms-house for poor widows in this town. A large and strong building of brick, erected as a free-school in the reign of Henry VIII., and endowed with the lands of the guild or brotherhood of St. John the Baptiste, (an ancient foundation in this town,) stands at the bottom of the churchyard. In the next reign the school was made a royal foundation, and incorporated. The master is appointed by the crown, and has apartments at one end of the free school; the school-room occupies the centre; and the other end is inhabited by the chaplain and usher. Here is also a charity-school, supported by voluntary contributions, &c. Numerous donations for charitable purposes have been made to this parish, the principal of which was a bequest of L1,000., made by John Sayer, Esq., in July, 1681, for the building and endowment of an alms house: this was erected after his decease by his relict, who placed in it six poor widows, and increased the original endowment by the gift of L300. Each widow has a small allowance weekly, and a cloth gown worth 20s. once in two years. In the 14th of Edward III., two representatives were sent from this borough; but this was the only return ever made, except to the great council held at Westminster, in the 11th of the same King. Berkhampstead had a charter of incorporation granted by James I., but it scarcely survived the reign of his son. An attempt was made to revive the charter, a year or two after the restoration, but it did not succeed. The honour of Berkhampstead formerly included upwards of fifty-five lordships and manors, in the three counties of Herts, Northampton, and Buckingham. Berkhampstead-place is situated on a pleasant eminence adjoining the town. Great part of the structure was erected by the Careys, having been burnt down in the time of the Lord Treasurer Weston, who then resided in it: the remainder was afterwards repaired, and with some additions, forms the present dwelling. King James's children were mostly nursed in this house. The life of Cowper, the poet, who was born here, will be given at Olney, on account of the length of the present article.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Shrove-Monday, Whit-Monday, for cattle; Aug. 5, cheese; September 29, Oct. 11, statute.--_Mail_ arrives 11.30 night; departs 3.30 morning.--_Inn_, Kings Arms.

[Sidenote: Description.]

[Sidenote: Its ancient castle.]

[Sidenote: The seat of Kings and Nobles.]

[Sidenote: Now in ruins.]

[Sidenote: The church.]

[Sidenote: Free school.]

[Sidenote: Contained fifty-five lordships.]

[A] BERKSHIRE. This county was originally inhabited by three tribes or nations, termed by the Romans Attrebates, Bibroces, and Segontiaci. The first occupied part of the west, the south-west and north-west parts. The second the south-east parts; and the third a portion of the north parts. Under the Romans, this county formed part of the first division called Britannia Prima. During the Heptarchy it belonged to the West Saxons. It was once called Berrocshire, from the name of a hill covered with box, which at one time occupied a large portion of it. It is an inland county, bounded on the north by the Thames, which divides it from Oxfordshire on the west, and Bucks on the east; and by part of Surrey; on the north by Surrey and Hampshire; and on the west by Wilts and a small part of Gloucestershire. It is so very irregular in its shape as not to admit of any adequate description. Its greatest length is about forty-eight miles, and its utmost breadth from north to south about twenty-five. In one of the narrowest parts, by Reading, it is about six or seven miles, and less still at the eastern extremity. It contains about 464,500 acres, and is about 140 miles in circumference; it is in the province of Canterbury, and the diocese of Salisbury; (the parish of Chilton, which is in the diocese of Oxford, and Langford, which is in that of Lincoln, excepted;) subject to an archdeacon, and is divided into six deaneries. It is included in the Oxford circuit. There are 20 hundreds, 12 market towns, 148 parishes (of which 67 are vicarages,) and 671 villages. The natural divisions of the county are four, 1. The Vale, beginning at Budcot, and ending at Streatley. 2. The Chalky Hills, running nearly through the centre of the lower part of the county. 3. The Vale of the Kennet, extending diagonally from Hungerford to near Wargrave. 4. The Forest Division, commencing on the east to Loddon, and occupying nearly the entire breadth of this part of the county to Old Windsor, and from Sandhurst south to Maidenhead north. The air is deemed peculiarly salubrious, particularly on the chalky and gravelly soils, which are the most common throughout the county; but the uneven face of the country causes some slight degree of variation in this particular, though every part is considered healthful and good. The soil is as various (though perhaps more mixed) as in the last described county. The Vale of White Horse consists generally of a rich strong loam and gravel, with some sand and stone brasp, producing corn, wheat, beans, &c. In the Chalk Hill district, light black earth on chalk prevails, with flint, chalk, gravel, and loam. Here numerous sheep are fed; it produces, towards the south and east, turnips, barley; and, when properly manured, Lammas wheat and artificial grasses. The Vale of Kennet, is generally peat land, with gravel, loam and clay, though in the south east parts a poor stony and heathy soil. The Forest District, gravel, clay, and loam, except on the south, which is poor and heathy. The principal rivers and streams are the Thames, the Kennet, the Loddon, the Lambourn, the Ock, the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater. All these, with perhaps the exception of the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater, abound with almost every kind of fresh water fish. Besides these rivers and streams, there are the Ginge Brook, the Moreton Brook, and other rivulets, &c.; also some other natural and artificial lakes and ponds. Water, however, is generally scarce on the Berkshire downs, and along the whole of the chalky stratum. The navigable rivers are the Thames and the Kennet. The navigable canals are the Kennet and Avon canal, which joins the river Kennet a little above Newbury; the entire length from Newbury to Bath is sixty miles--it has been navigable since the year 1798; and the Wilts and Berks canal, opened on September 21, 1810, into the Thames at Abingdon; from near Bath to Abingdon, about fifty-one and three-quarter miles. Mineral waters are by no means common in this county. The natural productions of this county, except those which may be considered partly agricultural, are neither plentiful or important. There are no minerals nor fossils of any great consequence. The strata of sand with oyster-shells, and particularly a thick stratum of chalk, is found near Reading. The surface of the soil, however, amply compensates for the apparent barrenness of the internal parts; and the produce of fat cattle, sheep, swine, and grain, is immense; as is also that of fine timber, especially oak and beech. Abingdon gives the title of Earl to the Bertie family--Coleshill, that of Baron to the Pleydell-Bouverie family--Foxley, that of Baron to the Townshend family--Hungerford, that of Baron to the Rawdon-Hastings family--Mortimer, the title of Earl to the Harley family--Newbury, that of Baron to the Cholmondely family--Uffingham, that of Viscount to the Craven family--and Windsor, the title of Baron to the Windsor-Hickman family; and Earl, to the Stuarts. It has been calculated, that, including houses, mills, and other productive revenue arising from or attached to the soil, the landed property cannot amount to less than L500,000 per annum, and that the largest possessor may have about L8000. The largest possessor, being a peer, is the Earl of Craven. The Craven, Englefield, Eyston, Read, Southby, Seymour, and Clarke families are among the few ancient families who still inherit the same estates, and occupy the same seats, or are immediately connected with the county, as their ancestors. Among the representatives of some very old families, or in the female line, may be ranked the Berties, the Nevilles, the Pleydells, the Puseys, the Throckmortons, the Lovedens, the Nelsons, and the Blagraves. The King is purposely omitted in this brief list:--his possessions as a landed proprietor being well known. Agriculture so much engrosses the attention of the people of Berkshire, that very little trade, unconnected with these pursuits is carried on. There are, however, some manufactories of sail-cloth, kerseys, canvass, and malt; and there are also several pretty large breweries in various parts of the county: the Windsor ale having acquired considerable celebrity; and at the Temple mills, near Bisham, there is a copper manufacture, and a manufacture of potash at Milton.

[Sidenote: Its ancient division into three nations.]

[Sidenote: Air, soil, and rivers.]

[Sidenote: Natural productions.]

[Sidenote: Ancient and noble families.]

[A] BERMONDSEY stretches along the banks of the Thames, from Southwark to Deptford, and Rotherhithe eastward, and is much inhabited by woolstaplers, fellmongers, curriers, parchment-makers, and other manufacturers, with such craftsmen as are connected with the construction and management of shipping. A priory for monks was founded here in 1082, by Aylwin Child, a citizen of London, and endowed by the second William with his manor of Bermondsey. In 1399, it was made an abbey, and at the dissolution, it was granted to Sir Thomas Pope, who built on its site a large house, which afterwards became the property and residence of the Earls of Sussex. Another part of the site is called the Abbey House. Catherine, the Queen of Henry V., and Elizabeth, Queen of Edward IV. retired to this place, where they died, the former in 1436; the latter soon after the forfeiture of her lands, by an order of the Council, in 1486. The church was erected in 1680, of brick, with a low square tower and turret, and consists of a chancel, nave, two aisles, and a transept. A free school was founded here by Mr. Josiah Bacon, and endowed with a revenue of L150. for the instruction of not more than sixty, or fewer than forty boys. A charity-school was also established, by contributions, in 1755, for the education of fifty boys and thirty girls, and was afterwards endowed by Mr. Nathaniel Smith, with a revenue of L40. per annum. The Bermondsey Spa was discovered in 1770, and, by means of the attractive entertainments contrived by the proprietor, became a place of general resort; but soon after his death the gardens were closed, and the area is now built upon. This suburban parish long retained a very antique air from the age of several of its streets and houses, many of which were built of wood. But the spirit of improvement has gradually amended its appearance: an act of parliament was passed in the year 1823, for watching, paving, cleansing, and lighting the parish. A new church has been erected here for the convenience of the parishioners, at a moderate distance from the mother church; it is, however, subordinate to the original rectory.

[Sidenote: Royal residence.]

[Sidenote: Church and schools.]

Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | +--+----------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ 52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Denbigh |Holt 6|Llangollen 12| 38|Bersted, South pa|Sussex |Chichester 5|Arundel 9| 38|Berwick pa|Sussex |Lewes 8|Seaford 4| 33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Salop |Shrewsbury 2|Wem 10| 29|Berwick Hill to|Northumb|Newcastle 10|Corbridge 13| 41|Berwick, St. James pa|Wilts |Amesbury 6|Wilton 6| 41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilts |Shaftesbury 5|Hindon 7| 41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Wilts |Hindon 1|Amesbury 16| 31|Berwick-Prior lib|Oxford |Wallingford 5|Watlington 5| 31|Berwick-Salome pa|Oxford | ... 4| ... 5| +--+----------------------+--------+------------+--------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ 11|Berry Pomeroy[A] pa|Brixham 7| 197| 1186| 52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Mold 14| 179| 1240| 38|Bersted, South pa|Lt. Hampton 9| 67| 2190| 38|Berwick pa|Hailsham 6| 58| 203| 33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Albrighton 3| 155| | 29|Berwick Hill to|Morpeth 10| 284| 105| 41|Berwick, St. James pa|Salisbury 9| 83| 232| 41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilton 12| 97| 425| 41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Warminster 10| 93| 51| 31|Berwick-Prior lib|Dorchester 4| 49| | 31|Berwick-Salome pa| ... 4| 49| 134| +--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+