Chapter 27 of 32 · 3332 words · ~17 min read

Part 27

[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family, since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland. The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still remains. Its roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fair_, Saturday after September 15, for cattle, sheep, linen and woollen cloth.

[Sidenote: Chipchase Castle.]

[B] BELPER, or Belpar, anciently Beaupoire, is situated on the banks of the Derwent, in the hundred of Appletree. It is a chapelry of Duffield; and, though formerly an inconsiderable village, its population now exceeds, with the exception of Derby, every other town in the county. The great increase of population began from three large cotton mills of Messrs. Strutts, the first of which was erected in 1776. Two of them yet remain; but the third was destroyed by fire early in the year 1803. The largest of these mills is 200 feet long, 300 feet wide, and six stories high: it is considered fire proof, as the floor is built on brick arches, and paved with brick. The two water-wheels, which are employed in the machinery in this building, are remarkable for magnitude and singularity of construction; one of them being 40 feet long, and 18 in diameter; and the other 48 feet long, and 12 feet in diameter. As timber could not be procured large enough to form the axles of these wheels in the common manner, they are constructed circularly and hollow, of a number of pieces, and hooped in the manner of a cask. One of the shafts is six feet in diameter, and the other nine. The shuttles are constructed in one piece, so as to support the lateral pressure of the water, although it is ten feet deep, by resting one upon another. This is different from the usual mode of construction, in which they are supported by large perpendicular beams at every six or seven feet, in order to sustain this lateral pressure. About twelve or thirteen hundred people are employed at these mills; and the proprietors have built many houses, and a chapel, for their accommodation. Near the mills a stone bridge of three arches has been erected across the Derwent, at the expence of the county, the former one having been washed down by a dreadful flood, in 1795. At a short distance, lower down the river, is a bleaching mill, belonging to the same proprietors; an iron forge, and two cotton mills; one of them constructed like that before described. A stone bridge was also erected here by these gentlemen in 1792. These mills afford regular employment to about 600 persons. A Sunday school has been established here, and another at Belper, for the instruction of the children employed at the cotton works.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 1.30 afternoon; departs 8.45 morning.

[Sidenote: Manufactories.]

[Sidenote: Cotton Mills.]

[A] BELTON. The church is a small ancient structure. The tower appears to have been rebuilt in the year 1637, and at a subsequent period, the chancel has been renewed. The church is extremely neat, and has in the south window six pieces of stained glass, illustrative of scriptural subjects. Within the nave are several splendid monuments. Belton House, near Grantham, the residence of Earl Brownlow, is situated on a beautiful lawn, in a wooded valley, through which the river Witham winds its course. The mansion was built in the year 1689, from designs by Sir Christopher Wren. The form of the building is that of the letter H, a stile of architecture peculiar to that period. It is of stone, and presents four uniform elevations. The apartments are lofty, and well proportioned. Several of the rooms are highly ornamented with carving by Gibbons. The late Lord Brownlow made considerable improvements in the mansion. He took down the cupola and balustrade from the roof. The drawing room was considerably enlarged, and a new entrance at the south front made. Here are many pictures by celebrated masters of the Flemish and Italian schools, with numerous family portraits by Lely, Reynolds, Kneller, Romney and others. Among the latter we may remark a portrait of Sir John Cust, Bart., Speaker of the House of Commons, in his robes, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. William III. in his progress through the northern counties, honoured Belton House with his presence. The park comprises an area of five miles in circumference, inclosed by a wall; numerous plantations of fine trees are highly ornamental to the place. Sir John Brownlow, K.B. afterwards Viscount Tyrconnel, enriched the library with a valuable collection of books; he also formed some extensive gardens, which have since been more adapted to the modern taste in gardening.

[Sidenote: Belton House.]

[B] BELVOIR. The Castle is one of the most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It is placed on an abrupt elevation of a kind of natural cliff, forming the termination of a peninsular hill. It has been the seat of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, for several generations, and claims the priority of every other building in the county in which it is situated. Belvoir has been the site of a Castle ever since the Norman conquest; and its possessors have been chiefly persons of eminence who have figured in the pages of history. The view from the terraces and towers comprehends the whole vale of Belvoir and the adjoining country as far as Lincoln, including twenty-two of the Duke of Rutland's manors. On the southern slope of the hill are enclosed-terraces, on which there are several flower-gardens, surrounded by shrubberies. The park is of great extent, containing fine forest trees, which form a woodland beneath the hill so extensive as to afford shelter for innumerable rooks. Its interior and furniture is of the most superb and costly description; it also contains one of the most valuable collections of paintings in this country, whether considered for the variety of the schools, or the works of each master. A conflagration took place in the year 1816, which consumed a great portion of the ancient part of the castle, and several of the pictures. A curious anecdote is related, illustrative of the folly and superstition of ancient times, which may not be uninteresting to add. Joan Flower and her two; daughters who were servants at Belvoir Castle, having been dismissed the family, in revenge made use of all the enchantments, spells, and charms that were at that time supposed to answer their malicious purposes. Henry the eldest son died soon after their dismissal, but no suspicion of witchcraft arose till five years after, when the three women who are said to have entered into a formal contract with the devil, were accused of "murdering Lord Henry Ross by witchcraft and torturing the Lord Francis his brother and Lady Catherine his sister." After various examinations they were committed to Lincoln gaol. The mother died at Ancaster, on her way thither, having wished the bread and butter she ate might choak her if she was guilty. The daughters were tried before Sir Henry Hobbert, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Sir Edward Bromley, one of the Barons of the Exchequer; they confessed their guilt and were executed at Lincoln, March 11, 1618.

[Sidenote: The Castle.]

[Sidenote: Charge of witchcraft.]

[A] BEMERTON, a parish in the hundred of Branch and Dole. The rectory of this place is interesting, as having been the residence of no less than four celebrated characters, viz. Dr. Walter Curie, Bishop of Bath and Wells, and afterwards of Winchester, who died in 1647; George Herbert, called the divine, who died in 1635; John Norris, a metaphysical writer, who died in 1711; and, lastly, Mr. Archdeacon Coxe, the traveller and historian, who died in 1828: all of them gentlemen highly distinguished in the annals of literature.

[Sidenote: Celebrated men.]

[B] BENEFIELD. In this parish are some remarkable cavities, called Swallows, which have opened a wide field of speculation among philosophers, who have grounded, upon the singular phenomena they exhibit, some new systems with regard to the theory of the earth. These swallows are situated about a furlong west of the village, and are nine in number. Through these cavities, the land-flood waters constantly pass and disappear. They are of a circular form, and of various diameters; some having an oblique, and others a perpendicular descent, opening beneath the apertures into large spaces, which exhibit several smaller conduits, through which the waters pass, to join perhaps, some subterranean river, or mingle with the grand abyss of waters, which some philosophers have placed in the centre of the earth.

[Sidenote: Geological curiosities.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ 5|Bengers ham|Bucks |Colnbrook 3|Uxbridge 3| 21|Beneden[A] pa|Kent |Cranbrook 3|Tenterden 5| 13|Benfield-Side ham|Durham |Durham 12|Newcastle 13| 14|Benfleet, North pa|Essex |Rayleigh 4|Billericay 6| 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa|Essex | ... 4| ... 9| 18|Bengeo pa|Hertford |Hertford 1|Ware 2| 15|Bengrove ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 6|Evesbam 7| 42|Bengworth pa|Worcester |Worchester 16|Pershore 7| 36|Benhall pa|Suffolk |Saxmundham 2|Frainlingh 5| 4|Benham to|Berks |Newbury 3|Hungerford 6| 4|Benham-Hoe ham|Berks | ... 4| ... 6| 44|Benningborough to|N.R. York |York 7|Boro'bridge 8| 46|Benningholme to|E.R. York |Beverly 7|Hornsea 7| 18|Bennington pa|Hertford |Stevenage 5|Buntingford 6| 24|Bennington pa|Lincoln |Boston 5|Wainfleet 12| 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 7|Newark 7| +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ 5|Bengers ham|Slough 4| 18| | 21|Beneden[A] pa|Rolvenden 3| 51| 1663| 13|Benfield-Side ham|Wolsingham 12| 270| 543| 14|Benfleet, North pa|Southend 6| 29| 300| 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa| ... 6| 32| 533| 18|Bengeo pa|Watton 5| 22| 855| 15|Bengrove ham|Pershore 7| 101| | 42|Bengworth pa|Broadway 5| 100| 850| 36|Benhall pa|Woodbridge 3| 89| 668| 4|Benham to|Kinbury 3| 59| | 4|Benham-Hoe ham| ... 4| 60| | 44|Benningborough to|Wetherby 10| 204| 93| 46|Benningholme to|Hull 8| 182| 103| 18|Bennington pa|Watton 3| 29| 631| 24|Bennington pa|Burgh 16| 121| 500| 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Leadenham 8| 116| 982| +--+---------------------+----------+------------+------+-------+

[A] BENENDEN, or Biddenden, three miles south east from Cranbrook, is at present populous, though the clothing manufacture, which first occasioned the increase of the population of this part of the county, in the reign of Edward the Third, has for many years failed here. Several good houses still remaining, discover the prosperity of the former inhabitants. The church is a handsome regular building, and its tower a structure of considerable height and strength. By the old part now remaining, it appears to have been originally but small. The interior contains several ancient brasses, and among them, one for the Goldwells of Great Chart; with the dates 1452, and 1499, in Arabic numerals: the rebus of this name, a golden fountain, or well, is also in one of the windows. A free grammar school, now degenerated into a complete sinecure, was founded here in the year 1522. There is a tradition in this parish, that a bequest for the use of the poor, of 20 acres of land, now called the Bread and Cheese land, lying in five pieces, was given by two maiden sisters, commonly called the "Biddenden Maids," of the name of Chulkhurst, "who were born joined together by the hips and shoulders, in the year 1100;" and having lived in that state thirty-four years, died within about six hours of each other. This tale is affected to be established by the correspondent figures of two females impressed on cakes, which after Divine service, in the afternoon, on every Easter Sunday, are distributed to all comers, and not unfrequently to the number from 800 to 1000. At the same time, about 270 loaves, weighing three pounds and a half each, and cheese in proportion, are given to the poor parishioners; the whole expence being defrayed from the rental of the bequeathed lands. The marvellous part of the story however, was wholly discredited by the well informed, until the visit of the Siamese twins to this country revived it with some appearance of truth.

[Sidenote: The Biddenden maids.]

[B] BENFLEET lies south-west by south from Rayleigh. Here was a castle, built by Hastings, the celebrated Danish pirate, and which building Matthew of Westminster described, as having deep and wide ditches. This fortress Alfred the Great took and destroyed in the year 890; Hasting's wife and two sons taken therein, were sent to London. The creeks entering the Thames round Benfleet are celebrated for their oysters.

[Sidenote: A pirate's castle.]

[C] BENNINGTON, called Belintone in the Domesday Book, was a seat of the Mercian kings; and here a great council of nobility and prelates was assembled about the year 850, under King Bertulph, who on the complaint of Askill, a monk of Croyland, of the great devastations committed on the property of that monastery by the Danes, granted the monks a new charter of divers "splendid liberties," and several extensive manors. In the 33d of Edward I. a charter of a weekly market, and a fair annually, was granted for this manor; but the former has long fallen into disuse! The manor was long in possession of the Bourchiers, Earls of Essex. Robert, the third Earl, after his divorce from the infamous Lady Francis Howard, his first wife, in 1613, sold it to Sir Julius Caesar, Knt., from whom it descended to his son and heir, Sir Charles Caesar. This gentleman was appointed Master of the Rolls in 1638; and, after being twice married, and having fifteen children by both wives, died of the small-pox, at Bennington, in 1643: this disease proved fatal also to several of his issue, and among them, to Julius, his eldest surviving son, who dying within a few days, was buried in the same grave with his father. Henry, his next son, and heir, represented this county in the two first parliaments held in the reign of Charles II.; and he was knighted by that sovereign in 1660: he also died of the small-pox, in January 1667. This manor was sold to the trustees under the will of Sir John Cheshire, Knt. His great nephew, John Cheshire, Esq., resided in a small mansion near the ancient castle at Bennington, which stood westward from the church, and most probably occupied the spot whereon stood the palace of the Saxon Kings. The artificial mount of the keep, with the surrounding ditch, are still to be seen. The old manor-house that had been inhabited by the Caesars, stood in the park, at a small distance from the village, but was burnt down about fifty years ago. A small edifice, since erected on the site, was for some years occupied by Mr. Bullock. Bennington church is a small fabric, consisting of a nave and a chancel, with a tower at the west end, and a chapel or burial-place connected with the chancel on the north. Here are two ancient monuments, under arches, which form part of them, each exhibiting recumbent figures of a knight and a lady. Many of the Caesars lie buried here. The Benstede family, sometime lords of the manor, are supposed to have built this church, as their arms are displayed both upon the roof and on the tower. In a niche over the south porch, St. Michael and the dragon are sculptured.

[Sidenote: Ancient charters.]

[Sidenote: The small-pox fatal to Cheshires.]

[Sidenote: Their monuments.]

[A] BENSINGTON was an ancient British town, taken from the original inhabitants by Ceaulin, in the year 572. The west Saxons held the place for two centuries, and appear to have constructed a castle for its defence; but it was reduced by Offa, king of the Mercians, who defeated his rival in a sanguinary contest. To the west of the church are a quadrangular bank and trench. Three sides of the embankment are much defaced. Plot mentions an "angle of King Offa's palace near the church;" by which he probably alludes to the same spot. In this village are several modern buildings. The church, which is gothic, has been built at different times. In the brick flooring of the nave are some ancient stones, with mutilated brasses. Here is a Sunday-school supported by subscription; and a meeting-house for methodists.

[Sidenote: A Mercian King.]