Chapter 16 of 32 · 3970 words · ~20 min read

Part 16

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ 40|Bampton[A] to & pa|Westmorlnd|Orton 10|Penrith 9| 40|Bampton-Grange ham|Westmorlnd| 10| 9| 9|Bampton, Little to|Cumberland|Wigton 5|Carlisle 7| +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ 40|Bampton[A] to & pa|Shap 4 | 282| 636| 40|Bampton-Grange ham| ... 4| 282| | 9|Bampton, Little to|Longtown 10| 311| 213| +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+

[A] BAMPTON. The river Lowther runs through this parish. Here is a beautiful lake, called Haweswater, three miles long, and half a mile broad; it is environed by lofty mountains, conveying to the mind a grand and imposing appearance: its eastern side is sheltered by rocky eminences, plentifully clothed with verdure, while the western side displays the open fields, with all the sweet varieties of culture. A lead mine has lately been discovered in the neighbourhood. The free grammar-school was founded by Thomas Sutton, D.D., who vested in trustees the sum of L500., collected from estates out of the parish of St. Saviour, Southwark, and other places. Here, also, three parochial libraries were established respectively, in the years 1710, 1750, 1752, comprising about 800 volumes. Thomas Gibson, M.D., who married the daughter of Richard Cromwell, Protector, was Physician-General of the army, and a native of this parish. He was the author of a system of anatomy. The learned doctor, having laid the foundation of his classical learning at a school in this county, he entered as scholar at Queen's College, Oxford, in 1686. The study of the northern languages about this period was particularly cultivated at the University, and Mr. Gibson rigidly applied himself to that branch of literature, in which he was assisted by Dr. Hicks. In a short time he translated into Latin the "Chronicon Saxonicum," and published it together with the Saxon original. Dr. Gibson had an early and strong inclination to search the antiquities of his own country, and being well versed in the knowledge of its original languages, he applied himself with great diligence, and in a few years produced his edition of "Camden's Britannica," and concluded this branch of learning with "Reliquae Spelmannianae," or the posthumous works of Sir Henry Spelman, relating to the laws and antiquities of England, which, with a life of the author, he published at Oxford, in 1698, and dedicated his work to Archbishop Tenison. About this time he was taken as Domestic Chaplain to the Archbishop's family, and soon afterwards was made Rector of Lambeth, and Archdeacon of Surrey. Upon the death of the Archbishop, in 1715, Dr. Wake, Bishop of Lincoln, succeeded him, and Dr. Gibson was appointed to that See; and Dr. Robinson also dying, in 1720, Gibson was appointed Bishop of London. The ministry were so sensible of his great abilities, that a sort of ecclesiastical ministry was committed to his charge for several years. He died on the 6th of September, 1748, with true Christian fortitude, and in perfect tranquillity of mind.

[Sidenote: Haweswater lake.]

[Sidenote: Dr. Thomas Gibson.]

[Sidenote: An Antiquarian.]

[Sidenote: Made Bishop of London.]

[A] BANBURY is pleasantly situated on the small river Charwell, and its staple commodities seem to be cheese and cakes; the former, even in Shakspeare's time, appear to have been celebrated, for Bardolph, when accused by "Slender" of robbing him of his two milled sixpences, exclaims, "You Banbury cheese." The cakes have made this town more celebrated than even its political engagements. The castle of Banbury was founded in the year 1153, by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, and continued an episcopal residence till the reign of Henry VI. During the contentions between the houses of York and Lancaster, when civil discord was a familiar incident in this neighbourhood, Banbury suffered much; but more particularly in the memorable engagement, called "The Battle of Banbury," fought about three miles from the town, in 1469. It took place on a plane called Danesmoor, near Edgecote. The Earl of Warwick was the commander of the Lancasterian forces, and the Yorkists were led by the Earls of Stafford and Pembroke, who had possession of the town. After one of the most determined conflicts ever recorded, the Yorkists were routed; the Earl of Pembroke and his brother were both taken and beheaded, and Edward IV. himself made prisoner a few days after. In 1642, the towns-people took part with the Parliament, but after the battle of Edgehill, this castle was taken by the royalists, under Sir William Compton, who defended it for 13 weeks against all the efforts of Sir John Fiennes, until the garrison was relieved by the Earl of Northampton. It suffered a further siege of 10 weeks, under Sir William Waller, and surrendered on honourable terms. Leland, who wrote in the Reign of Henry VIII., says, "In this castle is a terrible prison for convict men." A stone vault, with grated windows, and traces of the inner ditch, is supposed to have been the terrible prison alluded to, but very small remains exist in the present day. The free grammar-school is now wholly abandoned, and the school-house let out on lease by the corporation. This is much to be regretted, as it was formerly held in such high estimation, that the statutes of this establishment were taken as a model for St. Paul's school, London; and the statutes of the free grammar-school of Manchester, in 1524, ordain, that the grammar taught in that school, should be taught only "after the manner of the school at Banbury, in Oxfordshire, which is called Stanbridge's Grammar." Mr. Stanbridge, the celebrated grammarian alluded to, was a highly learned man, and tutor to Sir Thomas Pope. Adjoining the Ram Inn is a sulphurous well, and at a small distance from the town is a chalybeate spring. The pyrites aureus, or golden fire-stone, is frequently found in this neighbourhood. Among other interesting remains about the town is an ancient hospital, dedicated to St. John, now converted into a farm-house. This borough returns one member to parliament, as it did before the passing of the Reform Bill. The electors of the old constituency were but 18 in number, but the L10. householders are about 365. The borough comprises the parish, and the returning-officer is the Mayor.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Thursday after Jan. 18, for cattle, horses, and sheep: first Thursday in Lent; second Thursday before Easter, cattle and sheep; Ascension Day; Thursday and Friday in Trinity week; August 13, horses, cows, and sheep; Thursday after Old Michaelmas, hogs and cheese; October 30; and second Thursday before Christmas. Cheese, hops, and cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 4.15 morning; departs 10.34 night.--_Bankers_, (Old Bank) Cobb and Co., draw on Jones, Lloyd, and Co.; Gibbons and Co., draw on Robarts and Co.; Gillett and Co., draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Red Lion, and White Lion.

[Sidenote: Cheese and cakes.]

[Sidenote: Battle of Banbury.]

[Sidenote: Once a celebrated grammar school.]

[Sidenote: Electors.]

[A] BANGOR, which signifies the beautiful choir, is a Bishop's See; compared to its former size, it is now but an inconsiderable place. It is seated at the mouth of the Menai, near its opening to the Lavan sands, in a narrow valley, between two low ridges of slate rock, opening to the south, towards the majestic mountain, Snowdon, which rises 3571 feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Warner, the intelligent Welsh tourist, and his companion, spoke in raptures of this place. The beauty, repose, and retirement of the whole pleased them wonderfully. The latter observed, "If he were Bishop of Bangor, the only translation he would covet would be, thence to heaven." The former agreed with him, that "Were fate to throw him also into such a spot, very few attractions would have sufficient force to elicit him from it." They had "Never seen a place which united so many beauties in so narrow a circle." From this city the new road finds its way through a low pass in the adjacent ridge, and descends gently along the face of the sloping bank to the great bridge: this road is very smooth and well protected, and worthy of the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. Menai suspension bridge is distant about two miles and a half from Bangor. This noble bridge is substituted for the inconvenient ferry; it is 100 feet above the level of high water, even at spring tides. The cathedral is a low plain building, dedicated to St. Deiniol, to whom it owed its origin about the year 525, and he was elected the first bishop in 550. He was the son of Dinothus, Abbot of Bangor-iscoed, and reared under the auspices of a Welsh prince, patron of the bard Talliesin, and perhaps the most liberal prince of his time. In 1402 it was burnt down, during the rebellion of Owen Glendower; and what is rather singular, it was suffered to remain in ruins during the space of 90 years, when the choir was rebuilt by the Bishop in the reign of Henry VII. But that cruel ravager of ecclesiastical property, Bishop Bulkeley, not only alienated the lands belonging to the cathedral, but even had the audacity to sell the bells of the church. The choir is fitted up in a style of neat and simple elegance, and ornamented with an excellent organ, the gift of Dr. Thomas Lloyd, in 1779. The chapter consists of a dean, three archdeacons, two precentors, two vicars choral, six minor canons, six lay clerks, and eight choristers, with an income of L2,000. per annum. The windows of the cathedral were formerly very handsomely ornamented with stained glass, but in the civil wars of Charles I. the soldiers destroyed these, amongst other things. The most conspicuous monument in this building is that erected to the memory of Owen Gwynedd, one of the ancient princes of Wales. Here are several Dissenting meeting-houses, and the town is the resort of many visitors during the summer season; upwards of 50,000 annually are said to remain for longer or shorter periods. Steam-packets ply between this place and Liverpool.

_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, April 5; June 25; September 16; and October 28.--_Mail_ arrives at Menai Bridge 4.15 morning; departs 8.32 afternoon.

[Sidenote: The suspension bridge.]

[Sidenote: Cathedral.]

[A] BANGOR ISCOED is situated on the banks of the river Dee, which here passes under a bridge of five arches. This place, at present very inconsiderable, is famed on account of having been the site of the most ancient monastery in the kingdom, founded by Lucius, the son of Coel, the first Christian King of Britain, sometime previous to the year 180. This abbey was remarkable for its valuable library, and the number of learned men trained within its venerable walls. Gildas Ninnius, who lived in the 7th century, was one of its abbots. He wrote in Latin an incorrect history of England, which is still extant. According to Speed, this monastery, in the year 596, contained no less than 2,400 monks, 100 of which passed in their turns one hour of devotion; there are no remains of the monastery existing.

[Sidenote: The first abbey established in Britain.]

[B] BANSTEAD is celebrated for the excellent herbage which the neighbouring downs afford the sheep, which are highly prized for the delicate flavour of the mutton. There are many elegant seats in the vicinity, amongst which are Banstead House, Miss Motteux; Cold Blow Cottage, General Sir Edward Howorth; and the Oaks, the seat of the Earl of Derby. This celebrated villa was erected by a society of gentlemen, called the "Hunter's Club," and the present noble proprietor can accommodate his guests with more than 50 bed chambers; and a pack of hounds are kept on the establishment, which has been long noted for its hospitality. On the 26th of February, 1834, Mr. John Richardson, a farmer, returning from Epsom to Banstead, was robbed and murdered on these downs.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Earl of Derby.]

[C] BANWELL is an agreeable village, situated under the northern declivity of the Mendip hills, and is supposed to derive its name from a spring strongly impregnated with mineral properties, which expands into a fine sheet of water, and after turning two mills, empties itself into the channel near the ruins of Woodspring Priory. The church, which is a fine specimen of the florid gothic of the Tudor age, contains a richly carved screen and rood loft, a beautiful sculptured stone pulpit, and several windows of the richest stained glass. This manor has been in the possession of the Bishops of Bath and Wells, from the reign of Edward the Confessor, with little exception, till the present time. They had for many centuries a palace here, but nothing of it remains except a private residence called Banwell Court, still interesting for its antiquity. The park has been divided into enclosures, which afford at every point a most pleasing variety of landscapes. The Bishop of Bath and Wells has also a cottage ornee, for the accommodation of his family and of the numerous visitors which are driven hither to view the two singular caverns which have been discovered of late years in this neighbourhood. The monastery of Banwell was founded by the early Saxon monarchs. Asserius, or Asser, the scholar and biographer of King Alfred, was made Abbot by that monarch. This Abbey was destroyed by the Danes; it was afterwards restored, but never recovered its pristine importance; for instead of arriving at the point of prosperity usual in Royal foundations, it sunk into obscurity long prior to the dissolution of religious houses. Banwell is remarkable for two extraordinary caverns discovered in the year 1824, which occasioned no inconsiderable number of the curious to resort to the village. They were first discovered by some workmen digging a shaft in search of Calamine, which intersected a steep narrow fissure; after they had descended about 80 feet it opened into a spacious cavern, 150 feet long and 30 broad, and about 30 feet high. This is called the stalactite cavern, from the beautiful specimens of crystalized stalactite, which lay covering huge fragments of rock about the floor. In this place were found two pieces of candle, encrusted with lime, supposed to have been left by the miners after working for ochre, calamine, &c. A rich vein of iron ore, with some cobalt and manganese, was also discovered, the working of which has long since commenced, and the produce is conveyed to the smelting works on the southern coast of Wales. The workmen, in order to facilitate an easier method of entrance, opened another fissure lower in the rock, when suddenly another cavern presented itself, the floor of which was covered with a mass of sand, limestone, teeth, bones, &c. Professor Buckland, who surveyed this place, states, that a shaft being driven into this mass, proved it to have been nearly 40 feet deep. The bones consisted of various specimens of the ox tribe, including the elk. Skeletons of the wolf, and a gigantic bear, in point of preservation, like what are to be found in ordinary churchyards--supposed to be of antediluvian origin, where found here. In the roof of the cave is a large chimney-like shaft, formerly rising to the surface, but now blocked up by fragments of limestone, mud, and sand, adhering together by incrustation, and through which dreadful pitfall, it is presumed, this immense number of beasts were precipitated at the great inundation. The rubbish has been partially cleared, and the bones are used to decorate the sides of the walls. A British earthwork crowns the summit of the neighbouring eminence, enclosing, within its irregular rampart, an area of about 20 acres; and, about a quarter of a mile further, is an entrenchment nearly square, the ground in the centre of which is elevated in the form of a cross.

_Fairs_, Jan. 18, and July 18, for cattle, sheep, and cheese.

[Sidenote: Formerly a Bishop's Palace.]

[Sidenote: Extraordinary caverns.]

[Sidenote: Antediluvian bones.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+-----------------------+---------+----------+---------------+ 28|Barby pa|Northamp |Daventry 6|Welford 11| 39|Barcheston pa|Warwick |Shipston 2|Kineton 9| 38|Barcombe pa|Sussex |Lewes 3|Uckfield 6| 44|Barden pa|N.R. York|Leyburn 3|Richmond 4| 44|Barden to & chap|W.R. York|Skipton 8|Paitley Brid. 9| 14|Bardfield,(Great)[A] pa|Essex |Thaxted 5|Dunmow 7| 14|Bardfield-Saling pa|Essex | 4| 7| 24|Bardney[B] pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 12|Horncastle 9| +--+-----------------------+---------+----------+---------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+---------+ 28|Barby pa|Crick 4| 78| 637| 39|Barcheston pa|L. Compton 5| 83| 198| 38|Barcombe pa|Brighton 11| 48| 931| 44|Barden pa|Bedale 8| 231| 106| 44|Barden to & chap|Otley 13| 218| 214| 14|Bardfield,(Great)[A] pa|Haverhill 10| 48| 1029| 14|Bardfield-Saling pa| 10| 48| 359| 24|Bardney[B] pa|Wragby 9| 136| 1098| +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+---------+

[A] BARDFIELD, (Great.) _Market_, formerly Tuesday (now disused.)--_Fair_, June 22, for cattle and toys.

[B] BARDNEY, anciently Beardanam, is situated in a marsh on the north bank of the river Witham. An abbey was founded in the time of the Saxons, prior to the year 641. Here Ethelred, divesting himself of the splendour of royalty, retired to devote his days to religion, and became superior of the monastery. King Oswald is said to have been buried here, but the body was afterwards removed to the church of Gloucester. The hand was retained by the monks as a relique, to which they ascribed the power of working miracles, and for a long period imposed upon the credulity of superstitious pilgrims. In the year 870 the monastery was burned by the Danes, but was afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert De Gaunt, Earl of Lincoln, who annexed to it several extensive estates. At the dissolution its annual revenues were estimated at L429. 7s.

[Sidenote: King Oswald buried here.]

[A] BARDSEY ISLE, is near the south-east point of the promontory of Llyn, in Caernarvonshire: it is of a moderate elevation; in length two miles, and in breadth one. The third part of its contents of 370 acres, occupied by a high mountain, affords sustenance to a few sheep and rabbits. It is about a league distant from the main land, and only accessible to the mariner on its south-east side, where there is a small well-sheltered harbour. There is no reptile ever seen on this island, except the common water-lizard. The soil is clayey, but produces excellent barley and wheat. The inhabitants are employed in cultivating the land, and in fishing. The abbot's house is a large stone building, occupied by several families, and near it is a singular chapel, or oratory, being a long arched edifice, with a insolated stone altar near the east end. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerleon, almost worn out with age, resigned his see to St. David, retired here, and died in 522. He was interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after ages, that about the year 1107, his remains were removed, by the procurement of Urban, then Bishop of Llandaff, and re-interred in the cathedral of that see, of which he had been the first bishop. St. Dubricius was a man of singular eminence for learning and piety. He was Archbishop of Caerleon, and Metropolitan of all Wales, in the time of Aurelius Ambrosius; and prior to this elevation, he taught a school on the banks of his native river, which was much resorted to from all Christian countries.

[Sidenote: No reptiles on this island.]

[Sidenote: St. Dubricius.]

[B] BARDSEY, comprises the township of Bardsey, with Rigton and Wathersome. Near the church is a mound called Castle Hill, supposed to have been the site of a Roman fortress. At Bardsey Grange, in this parish, resided occasionally, and died, Francis Thorpe, the tyrannical Baron of the Exchequer; but the same house is rendered memorable as the birth place of the poet Congreve, in 1670. This clever and celebrated poet, was baptised in the church of this village in the month of February of the same year. When an infant he was carried to Kilkenny, by his father, who had the command of the army there. He received his education in the school of Kilkenny, and from these circumstances it is probable that persons had fallen into the erroneous impression that Congreve was a native of Ireland. In 1685 he was admitted into the university of Dublin. In 1691 he became a member of the society of the Middle Temple, but soon relinquished the dry study of the Law. At the age of twenty-one, he published his novel called "Incognita," or, "Love and Duty Reconciled." Soon afterwards, he brought out the Comedy, called "The Old Bachelor," of which Dryden says, "he never saw such a first play in his life;" it was performed in 1793, with the most unbounded applause. Lord Falkland wrote the prologue. The singular success and merits of this production, recommended him to the patronage and notice of the Earl of Halifax, who settled him in an office of six hundred a year, and during his life patronised him in every way he could. His next piece was "The Double Dealer." On the death of Queen Mary, in 1693, he wrote a Pastoral on the occasion, entitled "The Mourning Muse of Alexis," upon the appearance of which King William, her husband, granted him an annuity of L100. per annum. In 1695, he produced his Comedy, called "Love for Love;" and in 1697, the beautiful Tragedy of "The Mourning Bride." Having lived a high and honorable life amongst the most celebrated wits and classical men of the age, he died at his house in Surrey-street, in the Strand, January 19, 1729. On the 26th his corpse lay in state in the Jerusalem Chamber, at Westminster, and the same evening was carried into Henry the Seventh's Chapel, and afterwards buried in the Abbey. His pall was supported by the Duke of Bridgewater, Earl Godolphin, Lord Cobham, Lord Wilmington, Hon. George Berkeley, Esq., and Brigadier-General Churchill. Dr. Johnson says, "He has merit of the highest kind; he is an original writer, who borrowed neither the models of his plot, nor the manner of his dialogue." And Voltaire remarks, "That he raised the glory of comedy to a greater height than any English writer before or since his time."

[Sidenote: Birth-place of Congreve, the poet.]

[Sidenote: His works.]

[Sidenote: Died in Surrey-st., London.]