Chapter 3 of 32 · 3920 words · ~20 min read

Part 3

Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From | +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ 7|Acton Grange to|Chester |Warrington 4|Northwich 10| 15|Acton Iron pa|Gloucester|Chip. Sodbu 2|Thornbury 7| 33|Acton Pigott chap|Salop |Much Wenlo 6|Shrewsbury 8| 33|Acton Reynold to|Salop |Shrewsbury 8|Wem 6| 33|Acton Round chap|Salop |Wenlock 3|Bridgenorth 6| 33|Acton Scott pa|Salop |Ch. Stretton 4|Bish. Castle 10| 35|Acton Trussell to & pa|Stafford |Penkridge 3|Stafford 4| 15|Acton Turville chap|Gloucester|Tetbury 11|Chippenham 12| 35|Adbaston pa|Stafford |Eccleshall 14|Newport 5| 31|Adderbury East to & pa|Oxford |Banbury 3|Deddington 3| 33|Adderley pa|Salop |Drayton 4|Whitchurch 8| 29|Adderston to|Northumb |Beiford 3|Alnwick 12| 17|Adforton to|Hereford |Ludlow 8|Presteign 8| 9|Addingham pa|Cumberland|Kirk Oswald 2|Penrith 8| 45|Addingham pa|W.R. York |Skipton 5|Ottley 8| 37|Addington[A] pa|Surrey |Croydon 4|Westerham 10| 5|Addington pa|Bucks |Winslow 2|Buckingham 5| 21|Addington pa|Kent |Maidstone 7|Rochester 8| 28|Addington, Gt to & pa|Northamp |Thrapston 4|Kettering 7| 28|Addington, Lit to & pa|Northamp | ... 5| ... 8| 21|Addisham pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Canterbury 6| 45|Addle[B] to & pa|W.R. York |Leeds 5|Ottley 6| 46|Addle-cum-Eccup to|W.R. York | 5| ... 6| 45|Addlingfleet[C] pa|W.R. York |Snaith 11|Burton 2| +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ |Dist. Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ 7|Acton Grange to|Runcorn 5| 183| 148| 15|Acton Iron pa|Bristol 9| 112| 1372| 33|Acton Pigott chap|Ch. Stretton 9| 154| ... | 33|Acton Reynold to|Drayton 12| 152| 173| 33|Acton Round chap|Ludlow 17| 145| 203| 33|Acton Scott pa|Ludlow 10| 155| 204| 35|Acton Trussell to & pa|Lichfield 15| 131| 551| 31|Acton Turville chap|Sodbury 5| 102| 236| 35|Adbaston pa|Hodnet 7| 152| 601| 31|Adderbury East to & pa|Aynhoe 4| 70| 2471| 33|Adderley pa|Wem 12| 157| 468| 29|Adderston to|Wooler 10| 319| 322| 17|Adforton to|Knighton 8| 150| 218| 9|Addingham pa|Aldstn Moor 12| 291| 719| 45|Addingham pa|Keighley 5| 213| 2251| 37|Addington[A] pa|Bromley 5| 12| 463| 5|Addington pa|Bicester 11| 50| 74| 21|Addington pa|Wrotham 3| 27| 206| 28|Addington, Gt to & pa|Higam Ferrers 5| 70| 282| 28|Addington, Lit to & pa| ... 5| 70| 264| 21|Addisham pa|Sandwich 6| 62| 390| 45|Addle[B] to & pa|Bradford 8| 205| 1063| 46|Addle-cum-Eccup to| ... 8| 291| 703| 45|Addlingfleet[C] pa||Howden 6| 170| 478| +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+

[A] ADDINGTON is on the borders of Kent. Addington Place, a seat erected by Alderman Trecothick, in 1772, was purchased in 1807, for the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The manor of Addington is held by the feudal service of finding a man to make a mess, called Gerout, in the king's kitchen, at the coronation, and serving it up in his own person at Westminster Hall. In the reign of William the Conqueror, Addington appears to have been held by Tezelin, cook to the king, which accounts for the origin of the required culinary service. The Archbishop of Canterbury is now the claimant of the service alluded to. Near the village is a curious cluster of tumuli, or mounds of earth raised over the bodies of the slain, about twenty-five in number, of inconsiderable height. One of them is nearly forty feet in diameter, two are about half that size, and the rest very small.

[Sidenote: Coronation custom.]

[Sidenote: Cluster of tumuli.]

[B] ADDLE. The church in this town is considered to be one of the most perfect specimens of Roman architecture remaining in England. In 1702, the traces of an ancient Roman town, with fragments of urns, and of an aqueduct of stone were found in the adjacent moor.

[Sidenote: Roman architecture.]

[C] ADDLINGFLEET. A parish and township in the lower division of Osgold Cross, including the townships of Fockerby, Haldenby, and Eastoft. The village is situated very near the junction of the Trent with the Humber, the latter river being one of the largest in the kingdom, formed by the united waters of the Trent, Ouse, Derwent, Aire, and other minor streams. At this part it is about a mile broad, it is the Abus of Ptolemy. It runs towards the east, washing the port of Hull, where it receives the river called by the same name; from thence, taking a south-easterly direction, it expands itself into an estuary nearly seven miles across, and mingles with the German ocean. This river, which, with very few exceptions, receives all the waters of Yorkshire from the Ouse, and the greater part of those from the midland counties from the Trent, commands the inland navigation of very extensive and commercial parts of England; namely, those of the Mersey, Dee, Ribble, Severn, Thames, and Avon; it also forms the boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire.

[Sidenote: Boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire.]

[A] ADLINGTON. Through this township runs the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. It contains several coal mines. Adlington Hall, the seat of Sir Robert Clayton, Bart., was rebuilt about 1780; it stands in a low situation, on the borders of an extensive park, and contains some very good pictures, amongst which is a head of Charles I., taken after death. Ellerbeck Hall is the seat of John Hodson, Esq. In this neighbourhood is Park Hall, the seat of R.P. German, Esq. The inhabitants of Adlington are chiefly employed in the cotton manufactories of the vicinity.

[Sidenote: Seat of Sir. Robert Clayton, Bart.]

[B] ADWALTON formerly possessed a market which is now disused. On Adwalton Moor, a battle was fought, in 1642, between the Earl of Newcastle, commanding for the king, and the parliamentary general, Lord Fairfax, in which the latter was defeated.

_Fairs_, February 6, March 9, Easter Thursday, Thursday fortnight after Easter, Whit-Thursday; and every second Thursday thence to Michaelmas, for lean cattle; November 5, and December 23.

[Sidenote: Battle fought here in 1642.]

[C] St. AGNES is situated on the Bristol Channel. The town and parish, including a considerable mining district, is thickly strewed with the cottages of the miners. It is more frequently called Lighthouse Island, from a very high and strong light-house erected here, to warn the mariner from the rocks, which are more numerous about this than any other of the Scilly Islands. This building is upwards of sixty feet high, and stands on the most elevated ground. The light is produced by twenty-one parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and having each an argand lamp in its focus. The reflectors are disposed of in three clusters, of seven in each cluster, and the frame in which they are fixed stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, which makes the whole revolve every two minutes. By this motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon; and by its gradual intermission and increase, it is readily distinguished from any other. Its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined efforts its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his situation. This light was designed by the ingenious Mr. Adam Walker, (lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy,) under whose inspection it was constructed. The light-house itself is of stone, and was erected, as appears from an inscription over the door, by Captain Hugh Till, and Captain Simon Bayley, in the year 1680. The charges attending the light are defrayed by the Trinity House. At St. Agnes is a pilchard fishery. St. Agnes' Beacon, six hundred and sixty-four feet above the level of the sea, is formed out of an ancient cairn, or tumulus of stones; near which, a summer-house has been built, from whence is a fine view of St. Ives, and an extensive sea prospect. Near the same spot is St. Agnes' Well, of which many miraculous stories are in circulation, from its presumed holy and sanative properties.

This place gave birth to John Opie, whose persevering genius advanced him to the highest rank in his profession. He was born at Harmony Cot, in May 1761. The opening years of his existence indicated that he must plod through life in the dull occupation of a carpenter, as successor to his father and grandfather. He distinguished himself at a very early period, for originality and strength of mind, and at twelve years of age commenced an evening school in St. Agnes, teaching arithmetic and writing, and reckoning amongst his scholars some who had nearly doubled his years. His first humble attempts at portrait painting were with a smutty stick, against the white-washed wall of his paternal cottage, where he exhibited, in _dark colours_, very striking likenesses of the whole family. His next step was to draw with ochre on cartridge paper. He was apprenticed to his father, but from some unascertainable cause was turned over to a sawyer; and it was literally in the bottom of a saw-pit that Dr. Walcot, better known by the appellation of Peter Pindar, (who had previously seen and admired some of Opie's rude drawings,) first beheld this untutored child of genius, under whose patronage he was protected, and his fame promoted. After visiting Exeter, (where he was persuaded to change his surname, which originally was Hoppy, to that of Opie,) finding his success was commensurate with his abilities, it was soon determined they should be brought to act in a wider sphere; and, in 1780, the Doctor and his pupil repaired to London, where not agreeing as to the mode of living together, they separated, and although their attachment had been cemented by long-continued kindness, subsequently to this period, yet they were never after cordially united. The opinion Opie entertained of the services which he had received from the Doctor, may be gathered from the following curious _note of hand_, which was said to be in the possession of the latter: "I promise to paint, for Dr. Walcot, any picture or pictures, he may demand, as long as I live; otherwise, I desire the world will consider me as a ... ungrateful son of a ..., John Opie." It is not certain that he ever deviated from this voluntary obligation, but it is matter of pleasant remark, that he always made his friend pay eighteen-pence for the canvass! Opie was as fortunate in London as he had been at Exeter. To Pindar, however, he was indebted for his introduction to public notice. Through him his pictures were shown to Mrs. Boscawen, by whom Opie was introduced to the late Mrs. Delaney, who procured for him the notice of King George III. An opportunity was contrived for the royal family to see his picture of the _The Old Beggar Man_; soon after which, Opie was honoured with a command to repair to Buckingham House. The artist's account of this interview was given in the following characteristical manner to Walcot, who has often been heard to relate it with great humour. "There was Mr. West," said Opie, "in the room, and another gentleman. First, her majesty came in; and I made a sad mistake in respect to her, till I saw her face, and discovered by her features that she was the queen. In a few minutes his majesty came hopping in. I suppose," said Opie, "because he did not wish to frighten me. He looked at the pictures and liked them; but he whispered to Mr. West--'tell the young man I can only pay a gentleman's price for them.'" The picture which his majesty bought was that of _A Man Struck by Lightning_. The price given was L10, with which Opie returned to the Doctor full of spirits. His friend, when he heard the story, said, "Why, John, thou hast only got L8. for thy picture." "Indeed, but I have though," cried Opie, "for I have got the L10. safe in my pocket." On this he showed him the money. "Aye," rejoined the Doctor, "but dost thou know his majesty has got the frame for nothing, and that is worth L2." "D--- it, so he has," cried Opie--"I'll go back and knock at the door, and ask for the frame; D--- it, I will." He was actually about to put his resolve into execution, till dissuaded by the Doctor. Popularity naturally followed this notice of royalty. The ladies, however, soon deserted him, as his likenesses were not flattering; for where Nature had been niggardly, Opie refused to be liberal. He afterwards became better acquainted with the art of pleasing them; a change which has been attributed to Mrs. Opie, who used to stand over him, and endeavour to make him sensible of the graces of the female form. It was in the year 1786, that Mr. Opie became known as an exhibitor at Somerset House; soon after which he aspired to academical honours, and ultimately attained the rank of Royal Academician, and afterwards succeeded Fuseli, in the professorship of painting. He was twice married, but at what period his first hymeneal union occurred we are not informed--it was inauspicious. His second marriage, which took place on May 8, 1798, was more fortunate; and in the society of the late Mrs. Opie, the amiable author of many beautiful and interesting literary compositions, he enjoyed a delightful relief from the toilsome duties of his profession. Mr. Opie was in the daily acquisition of wealth and fame, and rapidly advancing to the very zenith of popularity, when his mortal career was suddenly closed by death, on Thursday, April 9, 1807, in the forty-sixth year of his age. "As a portrait painter he has great claims to praise, particularly in his men, which are firm, bold, and freely delineated, and occasionally well coloured. His women are heavy, inelegant, and chiefly accompanied with a hardness that destroys all beauty."

[Sidenote: Very high and strong light-house.]

[Sidenote: St. Agnes' beacon.]

[Sidenote: Birth-place of John Opie, the painter.]

[Sidenote: First attempts at portrait painting.]

[Sidenote: Genius fostered by Dr. Walcot.]

[Sidenote: Anecdotes of Opie.]

[Sidenote: Introduction to the King.]

[Sidenote: Opie's relation of his interview with royalty.]

[Sidenote: Royal economy.]

[Sidenote: First known as an exhibitor at Somerset House, 1786.]

[Sidenote: Died in 1807.]

[A] St. ALBANS is situated on the river Ver, or Muss, and consists of three parishes; parts of two of which, extend beyond the limits of the borough. It is said to have been the site of the ancient British metropolis of Cassibelanus, and is very near that of the ancient Roman Verulam, mentioned by Tacitus, being the same as the Saxon Watlingceaster, so called because seated on the road called Watling-street. It was here that Queen Boadicea made her celebrated assault on the Romans, and failed, after an immense slaughter of seventy thousand men. In 795, Offa, king of Mercia, erected an abbey here, in memory of St. Alban, the British protomartyr, who was born here in the third century. He served in the Roman army, but was converted to Christianity by a monk, named Amphilabus, and suffered during the Dioclesian persecution, A.D. 303. The abbey subsequently obtained great privileges, and became very rich, the revenues at the dissolution amounting to upwards of L2500. per annum. Monastic foundations had their origin in this country, about the time of St. Augustine, who came from Rome, to convert the Pagan Saxons to Christianity; and when Offa ascended the throne of Mercia, about twenty great monasteries had been founded in England, and about the same number of episcopal sees established. Offa's zeal prompted him to do what many of his crowned predecessors had done; but being undetermined whom to select as the patron saint of his establishment, it is recorded that, while at the city of Bath, an angel appeared to him in the silence of the night, desiring him to raise out of the earth the body of Alban, the first British martyr, and place his remains in a suitable shrine. Even the memory of Alban had been lost for three hundred and forty years; but the king assembling his clergy and people at Verulam, an active search was made for his body with prayer, fasting, and alms; when it is said a ray of light was seen by all to stand over the place of burial, similar to the star that conducted the magi to Bethlehem. The ground was therefore opened, and, in the presence of the king, the body of Alban was found. Offa is said to have placed a golden circle round the head of the deceased, with an inscription, to signify his name and title, and immediately caused the remains of the saint to be conveyed to a small chapel, without the walls of Verulam, as the town was then called, until a more noble edifice could be raised for its reception. This is said to have occurred on the 1st day of August, 791, four hundred and ninety-four years after the martyrdom of Alban. Offa afterwards made a journey to Rome, and obtained the desired privileges of his intended foundation, with great commendations for his zeal and piety, from the pope, when he undertook to build a stately church and monastery, to the memory of St. Alban. From this abbey the town originated, which early obtained considerable importance. The abbey church, which claims

## particular attention for its size, beauty, and antiquity, is constructed

of Roman brick, to which age has given the appearance of stone. A stone screen, erected before the communion table, in 1461, is much admired for the richness and lightness of its sculpture. The tombs of the founder, Offa, and that of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, are shown here; and, not many years ago, the leaden coffin, containing the body of the latter, was opened, and the corpse found nearly entire. The Roman antiquities discovered on the site have been very numerous. The effect of the venerable abbey, when seen from a distance, is extremely imposing; situated upon an eminence, its massive towers rise majestically above the houses of the ancient town, which is well, known to have derived its first importance from the Romans, since which, it has increased chiefly under the protecting influence of successive abbots of this rich and powerful monastery. The prospect of its mouldering ruins, forces upon the mind a melancholy train of reflection on the instability of all human institutions.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, March 25 and 26; October 10 and 11, for horses, cows, sheep, and hiring servants.--_Inns_, Angel, and White Hart.--_Mail_ arrives 10.15 P.M. Departs 4.30 A.M.

[Sidenote: Originally the British metropolis.]

[Sidenote: King Offa's extraordinary vision, which induced him to build the abbey.]

[Sidenote: St. Alban's body found after a lapse of 494 years; a golden circle placed round his head.]

[Sidenote: Duke of Gloucester's body found nearly entire.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+---------------------+---------+----------------+------------+ 18 |Albury pa|Herts |Bp Stortford 5|Standon 4| 37 |Albury pa|Surrey |Guildford 6|Dorking 7| 27 |Alby pa|Norfolk |Aylesham 6|Cromer 5| 12 |Alcester lib|Dorset |Shaftesbury 1|Sherborne 16| 39 |Alcester[A] m.t. & pa|Warwick |Warwick 16|Stratford 8| 38 |Alciston pa|Sussex |Seaford 5|Hailsham 5| 19 |Alconbury pa|Hunts |Huntingdon 4|Kimbolton 8| 19 |Alconbury Weston chap|Hunts | ... 5| ... 8| 27 |Aldborough pa|Norfolk |Aylesham 5|Cromer 6| 43 |Aldborough to|N.R. York|Richmond 7|Darlington 5| 46 |Aldborough to & pa|E.R. York|Hull 11|Hornsea 6| 45 |Aldborough[B] pa & to|W.R. York|York 18|Thirsk 10| 41 |Aldbourn[C] to & pa|Wilts |Marlboro 7|Ramsbury 3| 18 |Aldbury pa|Herts |Tring 3|Dunstable 7| 22 |Aldcliffe ham|Lancaster|Lancaster 2|Garstang 10| 36 |Aldeburgh[D] m.t.|Suffolk |Orford 5|Saxmundha 7| +--+---------------------+---------+----------------+------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+---------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ 18 |Albury pa|Buntingford 7| 35| 631| 37 |Albury pa|Godalming 7| 29| 929| 27 |Alby pa|N. Walsham 6| 26| 346| 12 |Alcester lib|Salisbury 20| 101| 227| 39 |Alcester[A] m.t. & pa|Bromsgrove 12| 103| 2405| 38 |Alciston pa|Lewes 7| 64| 266| 19 |Alconbury pa|Stilton 9| 63| 765| 19 |Alconbury Weston chap| ... 8| 63| 441| 27 |Aldborough pa|Holt 9| 126| 275| 43 |Aldborough to|Bernard Cas 10| 240| 522| 46 |Aldborough to & pa|Hedon 6| 185| 620| 45 |Aldborough[B] pa & to|Ripon 6| 207| 2447| 41 |Aldbourn[C] to & pa|Swindon 8| 73| 1418| 18 |Aldbury pa|Berkhampst 4| 34| 695| 22 |Aldcliffe ham|Kirk. Londs 17| 238| 96| 36 |Aldeburgh[D] m.t.|Dunwich 10| 94| 1341| +--+---------------------+-------------------------+------+------+