Part 1
# Needlework Economies: A Book of Mending and Making with Oddments and Scraps ### By Unknown
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[Transcriber's Notes: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic text by _underscores_. Some patterns use a spaced "d c" for a double-crochet stitch while another uses "dc."]
NEEDLEWORK ECONOMIES
EDITED BY FLORA KLICKMANN
A Book of Making and Mending with Oddments and Scraps
“A _Live_ Magazine for Women.”
“No praise can be too high for this Magazine. Each article is written with knowledge and insight, and in a practical spirit.” —_Morning Post._
=1/- NET Monthly=
[Illustration: THE GIRL’S OWN
& WOMAN’S MAGAZINE
EDITED BY FLORA KLICKMANN.]
“It is a treasure-house of story and article, as well as being an infallible guide to arts and crafts of various kinds.”—_Lady’s Pictorial._
“It is brimful of brightly-drawn stories, together with many household hints.”—_Daily Telegraph._
“It blends fiction with fashion, and the decorative with the domestic.”—_Pall Mall Gazette._
“It concerns itself with any and every interest which a girl may have, or ought to have.”—_Westminster Gazette._
=Published at 4, Bouverie Street, London, E.C. 4.=
=On Sale EVERYWHERE.=
RICKARDS
“_Sylvan_”
Artificial Silk
EMBROIDERY THREADS
are the closest imitation of Pure Silk made in Rickard’s SYLVAN. The requirements of needleworkers have been carefully studied. Its colours are unsurpassed for brilliancy, silk lustre and finish.
SYLVAN Threads should be used for all rich colour embroidery effects.
[Illustration]
Manufactured by C. A. RICKARDS, LTD., Bradford.
A GOOD HOME RULE
The Finest MEDICINE IN THE WORLD FOR ALL CHILDREN’S AILMENTS.
[Illustration]
“GIVE YOUR CHILDREN PERRY’S·POWDERS”
Sold Everywhere at 1/3 per box of 3 dozen, _or Post Free from_ PERRY’S POWDERS, Ld., LEEDS.
[Illustration:
PEACOCK QUALITY
REGISTERED.]
It is essential suitable material should be used for the work selected. The undermentioned wools are highly recommended and will not cause disappointment. All the brands should be procurable at any Needlework Repository. In the event of any difficulty in obtaining a supply please write to
FAUDEL’S LTD., Newgate Street, London, E.C.1
=A.A. PEACOCK FINGERING,= The best quality Wool for The long length Wool, General Knitting and 2,000 yards more in the 6 lb. Crochet purposes, in 2, Spindle than in ordinary 3, 4, 6 ply. yarns. 4 ply kept in 150 Colours and Fancy Mixtures.
=PEACOCK SHETLAND WOOL,= Best For Shawls, Opera Hoods, English make. Wraps, Fascinators, etc., in all leading colours. Natural and Clerical.
=PEACOCK ANDALUSIAN,= Best For Socks, Stockings, English make. Mittens, Gloves, Cuffs, Gaiters, Wraps, Bonnets, and Shawls.
=PEACOCK DOUBLE KNITTING= For Golf Jerseys, Hats and For some years we have Norfolk Jackets, Shooting been trying to introduce a and Cycling Stockings, Yarn with the Wearable Tams, Scarves, Sweaters, characteristics of the best Football and Golf Worsted, combined with Stockings. the Soft, Strong and Elastic qualities of the best Fingering. We claim in the “Peacock Double Knitting” to have been eminently successful.
=PEACOCK VEST WOOL,= Unshrinkable. Specially prepared for all Underwear in 2, 3, 4 ply.
=PEACOCK LADY BETTY,= A Pure Wool. For softness and warmth, used largely for Baby’s first Vests, Shawls, etc., and all useful garments where the best soft wool is needed.
=PEACOCK OSTRICH WOOL,= In 1 oz Balls. For making, Boas, Capes, Hoods, Muffs, Ruffles, etc.
=PEACOCK SPANGLED WOOL,= With For Shawls, Vests, Hoods, Mercerised Thread. Children’s Gloves, Bonnets, etc. A very pretty wool.
=PEACOCK ABERDEEN FINGERING,= A good fingering for all Made in 2, 3, 4 ply. purposes requiring softness, strength and warmth.
=PEACOCK HOMESPUN,= or Wheeling A yarn for Deep Sea Mission Yarn. and Charity purposes.
=PEACOCK ROYAL SHETLAND FLOSS For Boas, Ruffles, and Shawls, OR BOA WOOL.= for working on Boa frame.
NEEDLEWORK ECONOMIES
A New Edition (The Fifteenth) now Selling. Price =7/-= net.
(by post 7/6).
The Flower-Patch among the Hills
By FLORA KLICKMANN,
_Editor of the “GIRL’S OWN AND WOMAN’S MAGAZINE,” etc._
With Photogravure Portrait of the Author.
“Your delightful book charms me.”—=Miss Marie Corelli.=
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“It is indeed a charming book.”—=The Guardian.=
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[Illustration: The Flower-Patch Among the Hills
By FLORA KLICKMANN
A Book of Cheerfulness: you just smile your way right through.]
London: 4, Bouverie Street, E.C., 4.
_And at all Bookshops and Bookstalls._
=Price SEVEN SHILLINGS net (by post 7/6).=
The Home Art Series
Needlework Economies
A Book of Mending and Making with Oddments and Scraps
EDITED BY FLORA KLICKMANN _Editor of “The Girl’s Own Paper and Woman’s Magazine.”_
London: The Office of “The Girl’s Own Paper & Woman’s Magazine” 4 Bouverie Street & 65 St. Paul’s Churchyard, E.C. 4.
[Illustration]
That Baby Girl sitting on the ground will soon be as big and strong as her sister in the swing if mother feeds her regularly upon Robinson’s “Patent” Groats. Made nicely with milk, and sweetened with a little sugar or syrup, it has that delicious flavour which the little ones enjoy.
Robinson’s “Patent” Groats
Possessing valuable flesh and bone-forming properties, it is extremely nourishing and easily digested.
It is also a valuable diet for NURSING MOTHERS, providing the nutriment that enables mothers to nurse their babies. INVALIDS and the AGED find it an ideal breakfast and supper food.
_Send for Free Booklet “ADVICE TO MOTHERS,”_
=Dept. N.E., KEEN, ROBINSON & Co., Ltd., LONDON, E.1.=
[Illustration: NEEDLEWORK ECONOMIES.]
Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN
Preface.
War is a hard, stern teacher, and its lessons are bitter in the learning; yet some of its teaching we badly needed—and not the least important of its many lessons is the one it inculcated on the criminality of waste.
To so many of us “waste” was a word with a comparative meaning. What was waste in one woman was not necessarily waste in another, we argued. It was wrong for the factory girl to let her skirts drop off her for lack of mending; but not wrong for better-off women to discard their clothes directly they showed the least sign of wear, because they could afford to buy more, we said; and, besides, it made it good for trade—that was a favourite argument used by the extravagant to excuse their wanton waste.
But we have all learnt the value of economy of recent years: and we have seen how the saving and thrift of individuals may mean the salvation of the State. It will be a long time before we can ever return to that condition of easy-going plenty that we knew before the war. In any case the cost of all commodities will remain higher in price. The woman who can utilize oddments and make things with her own hands is the woman who will be making money, as she will be supplying one of the most expensive items of modern times—personal labour. The hints in this book are intended as suggestions, which can be developed in many new directions.
## Part I.
Dress Economies.
The Brassiere.
The Brassiere, or bust bodice, is an essential garment for those who wish to keep the form neat in appearance now when the low cut corset is so much in vogue. It has the great advantage of correcting round shoulders in those who are inclined to stoop when walking, and prevents that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused by the top of the corset.
[Illustration: The Crochet Trimming gives a pretty finish.]
They are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as many as she requires, for they are expensive articles to buy, and the garments one makes for one’s self are likely to outlast three or four of the bought kind and this, too, at about one-third the cost.
[Illustration: This Section of the Front shows the actual size of the Crochet.]
The pattern for the Brassiere shown here is in three parts, the front, side-front and back. Half a yard of 36 inch wide linen or cambric is sufficient. The material used must be strong but fine, and linen is, of course, the best for wearing qualities.
Having cut out the sections, join all seams with a row of stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, open out the seams flat and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge turned inwards, each should then be half an inch wide. Stitch close to the edge at each side. The three centre casings have buttonholes worked in the centre of the casing, in an upward direction, each an inch in length. These are to admit of a strip of whalebone, eight inches in length and which can readily be removed for washing.
Turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in place. Make the insertion and place in position on the front, mark the lines at each side, cut the material along the centre where the various strips are to be, turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round. Then turn a hem all round the edge and stitch.
[Sidenote: With an Irish Crochet Insertion.]
With the crochet hook, put a row of 8 ch 1 d c into the edge of the hem from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around each armhole. Into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice, with 5 ch 1 d c from loop to loop.
Sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back, and a long strip of tape to the lower edge. The tapes are crossed at the back and brought round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere.
The Insertion.
This is the pretty Rose beading in Irish crochet, and is made with Manlove’s Irish lace thread, No. 50, with a No. 6 crochet hook.
Form 6 ch into a ring.
_1st Row._—6 ch 1 tr into the ring, 3 ch 1 tr into the ring 4 times, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch.
_2nd Row._—1 d c 7 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_3rd Row._—5 ch 1 d c into the d c between the petals in last row.
_4th Row._—1 d c 10 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_5th Row._—Same as 3rd, but 6 ch instead of 5.
_6th Row._—1 d c 12 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_7th Row._—8 ch, picot 5 of them, 3 ch 1 d c into the 3rd tr on 1st petal in last row; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 3rd tr on next petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal.
_8th Row._—Turn with 8 ch and repeat the 4 picot loops as in last row, for 8 rows of the 4 loops.
_16th Row._—Turn with 5 ch, 1 tr into 1st loop, 2 ch 1 tr into each of the others, turn.
_17th Row._—10 ch 1 d c into the 2nd of the 5 ch at the turning of last row.
_18th Row._—Repeat the 4 picot loops over the 10 ch and form 5 rows. Then repeat the 16th and 17th rows and form 8 rows more of the picot loops.
Make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to correspond with the joining of the first one.
When the front strip is of sufficient length, make the strip for each shoulder and the front piece, joining each to the loops in the straight strip.
Make the straightening rows at each side with 1 tr 2 ch into each loop and petal along the sides, placing the trs so that the chs may form a straight line.
Work a 2nd row of 2 ch 1 tr into each space of 1st row, then finish with 3 d c into each space.
Now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat “run and fell” seam.
Sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to fasten the Brassiere to the corset.
Beautiful Crochet on Household Linen
Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN
This is full of beautiful ideas for table cloths, toilet covers, curtain tops, sideboard cloths, tea cosies, dressing table runners. Uniform with this volume in style and price, and issued by the same publishers.
A Camisole Yoke of Embroidered Filet Net and Crochet.
Machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke, on which the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with Tenax embroidery silk in a moss-rose shade of pink. Other lovely shades can be had in the Tenax silk, and blue, green, or mauve will answer quite as well. The shape is cut out from the net, allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges.
[Illustration: From this diagram the Shamrock Design can be worked in darning.]
Using No. 70 Peri-Lusta crochet cotton, overcast the two rows of meshes left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh, then with a No. 5 crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges, 2 d c into each mesh.
Around the edge of the sleeve part, neck, and fronts of the yoke, work a row of 9 ch loops, 1 into every 4th d c.
Then into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice.
The trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch. Have the wrong side turned towards you while doing the embroidery, as all fastenings of the thread must be made on this side.
The trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram.
[Illustration: This kind of trimming would also be pretty for a Blouse or Jumper.]
A Pretty Camisole Yoke.
Use No. 70 Peri-Lusta Crochet for this pretty yoke.
Form 5 ch into a ring, into which put 8 d c, and close the row with a s c into the 1st d c, 6 ch 1 tr into next d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each d c, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch to close a row of 8 spaces.
_3rd Row._—5 d c into each sp.
_4th Row._—7 ch, 1 long tr into the 1st ch (thread 3 times over the needle)—the 7 ch stands for a long tr—work off the loops of the long tr, two at a time, but retain the last on the needle; make another long tr through the same ch stitch, work off as before, then work off all the loops together. Make 7 ch, and repeat the 2 long tr through the 1st of the 7 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c into the d c over the next tr in the row below, repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr (8 loops).
_5th Row._—6 ch, bring these up behind the 1st loop and fasten with a d c on centre of the loop, 10 ch 1 d c into centre of each loop.
_6th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch.
_7th Row._—10 ch, 6 triple tr into the d c on centre of 1st loop below, 3 ch between the trs, * 10 ch, 1 d c over the d c on centre of next loop, 10 ch 6 triple tr with 3 ch between into the d c over centre of next loop, and repeat from *.
_8th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch, over each 3 ch put 1 d c 7 ch 1 d c.
To Join the Motifs.
[Illustration: Twenty-three motifs are required for this yoke.]
Work the last row to the 3rd group of picots, form 2 of the picots as before; for the 3rd picot make only 2 ch, join to the 3rd picot on preceding motif with a d c, make 2 ch, then continue on to next picot on the motif in hands, and join the next two in the same way; 12 d c over next 10 ch, 6 ch 1 d c into the d c between the two bars on preceding motif after the joining, come back on the 6 ch with 2 ch, 1 d c over the centre of the 6 ch, 3 ch, 12 d c over next chs on the motif, then join next 3 picots as before and finish off the motif.
The extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the point. For the point, make the ring as in the centre of the motif, then 6 ch 1 tr into the 1st d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each of next 2 d c, turn.
_2nd Row._—9 d c into 1st loop, 5 d c into each of next two, turn, and put three of the long tr loops into the d c’s over the trs in the same manner as in the motif.
_4th Row._—Turn, 10 ch, 1 d c into top of long tr loop; put the 6 triple trs into the d c’s as before with the 3 ch between and the two 10 ch loops.
_5th Row._—Make the picots and d c’s as in the motif, joining to the 2 lower groups of triple trs as before.
There are 23 motifs in all required, 4 for each front, 5 for the back, 4 for each shoulder and the two extensions.
To Re-sole Cashmere Stockings.
Stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn with slippers, and will be found comfortable.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
Place the stocking as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the sole at the dotted line a—b; then cut off the toe at the line c—d. As the heel of the sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit, until, when laid out, it resembles fig. 2. Cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another stocking, allowing turnings as follows:
Fig. 1, the toe piece, ½-inch at c—d where it joins the stocking; fig. 2. ½-inch all round except at the lines a—b, c—b, where ¼-inch only must be allowed. If the stocking is short this can be remedied by leaving the extra length required at fig. 1, a, and fig. 2, d, in addition to the turnings previously mentioned.
Machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c—d (fig. 1), open and press the seam. Machine a—b to b—c, of the sole piece (fig. 2), open and press the seam. Machine this new sole to the stocking, open and press the seam. Fasten down all seams with small slip stitches.
It is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk, and to leave the tension of the machine rather slack.
Three Pretty Aprons.
In a Christmas parcel sent to me from Italy this year, I found two of the dearest little aprons I have ever seen—much less owned.
[Illustration: AN EASILY SLIPPED-ON APRON.]
They were so very unusual and yet so simple of make, that I feel every girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one. To these two I have added one other, equally simple, and which costs but a few pence all told.
An Easily-Slipped-on Apron.
The first one of the three is one of the Italian ones, and is made of two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel. This particular one is made from unbleached linen, utterly free from coloured stripes or borders.
From a two yard length of towelling, cut off a strip ten inches long, which will be used for the waistband.
At one end of the long length make a three inch hem, this being the front.
Now lay this strip on the table, and measuring 39 inches from the hem, make a dot with a lead pencil, and take this dot as the centre of a circle 33 inches in circumference, which also mark out with the pencil with the help of a compass. Next cut out this circle and neatly turn in the raw edge, making a tiny hem. At the back of the apron, that is the end unhemmed, make three pleats—one box pleat in the centre and two outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat.
Cut the ten inch strip into two 5 inch ones, and join in the middle to form a long band. Fold this neatly in the middle and point one end, letting the other end be straight.
Join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine. Put a fastening in the form of a button and button-hole, or hook and eye, or patent fastener, on each end of the belt, to complete the apron.
Slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to the shoulders, and join the waistband in the front, and there you have the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine.
The decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk, separated by 5 graduated dots, the largest being in the middle. This occurs across the foot of the apron, about half an inch from the front hem, and again around the neck, but three inches from the edge of the circle. Right round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk, then a row of green French knots, and then another line of brown, making a narrow band.
In the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen, and a single red rose, minus the stalk, worked on it.
An Apron with Smocking.
[Illustration: AN APRON WITH SMOCKING AND RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.]