Part 3

_2nd Row._—Knit twice into each st, thus—knit the st, but retain it on the left needle, twist the point of the right needle round to the back of the st and knit the other side of this st, then drop the st off the left needle. Repeat into every st.

_3rd Row, and every Alternate Row._—Knit plain.

_4th Row._—* Knit 1, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.

_6th Row._—* Knit 2, knit twice into each st, repeat from *.

_8th Row._—* Knit 3, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.

Continue in this way, increasing the number of stitches in each section by 1 st before the increase until in the 46th row, there are 24 st in each section, that is 144 st in the row.

Knit 42 rows on the 144 st.

_89th Row._—* Knit 11, knit twice into the next st, repeat from *.

_90th Row._—Knit plain and repeat these 2 rows until the number in each section is increased to 20, then knit 10 rows of the 240 st.

Use the spare needle to take off some of the stitches, putting 60 st on each of the 4 needles.

Work in ribbing of knit 1, purl 1 all round for 16 rows, then cast off the stitches on 2 of the needles, continue on the other 2 the ribbing for the wide part of the brim, casting off 4 st at the beginning and end of every row (composed of the stitches on the 2 needles), until this piece measures 1½ inches, then cast off.

It will be necessary to fit the covering to the shape to see that it fits evenly, and to add or subtract a row or two perhaps to the part for each portion of the shape, while working.

[Sidenote: Pretty and Durable.]

Stretch the covering over the shape and tack along the line between the crown and brim to the shape, turn the wrong side of the hat towards you and gather up the edge of the covering to fit the shape along the edge of the crown. Sew the knitting securely to this edge of the shape. Headline the hat and press the brim with a warm iron, placing a damp cloth under and over it; iron until the cloths are quite dry.

The Band.

This is made in the new floral knitting, and gives a nice finish to a very useful and becoming hat.

Using the same kind of white wool and 2 needles, cast on 20 st and work 30 rows, 1 plain and 1 purl row alternately, so that there is a right and a wrong side to the band.

_31st Row._—Knit 13 (using the white wool), tie on the purple wool close up to the 13th st, and knit 4 p (purple), then finish the row with white.

When using two or more colours in this class of knitting, one of the wools is stretched across the fingers of the left hand just as in crochet, and the wool for the stitch taken from this by inserting the needle under it and drawing the loop through the stitch you are knitting on the left-hand needle. Keep the different wools at opposite sides of your work, so as not to tangle them, and see that the wools on the back of the work are kept even and not pulled too tightly, otherwise the work will pucker.

_32nd Row._—Purl 7 w (white), 1 p (purple), 12 w.

_33rd Row._—Knit 11 w (always slipping the 1st st), 1 p, 8 w.

_34th Row._—Purl 9 w, 1 p, 10 w.

_35th Row._—Knit 9 w, 2 p, 9 w.

_36th Row._—Purl 10 w, 1 p, 9 w.

_37th Row._—Knit 8 w, 1 p, 11 w.

_38th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_39th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.

_40th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_41st Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.

_42nd Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_43rd Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 9 w.

_44th Row._—Purl 8 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_45th Row._—Knit 4 w, 8 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.

_46th Row._—Purl 4 w, 5 p, 3 w, 4 p, 4 w.

_47th Row._—Knit 6 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 4 p, 4 w.

_48th Row._—Purl 5 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_49th Row._—Knit 3 w, 4 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 7 w.

_50th Row._—Purl 5 w, 4 p, 3 w, 5 p, 3 w.

_51st Row._—-Knit 4 w, 2 p, 1 w, 8 p, 5 w.

_52nd Row._—Purl 4 w, 4 p, 1 w, 4 p, 3 w, 1 p, 3 w.

_53rd Row._—Knit 3 w, 3 p, 1 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 5 w.

_54th Row._—Purl 10 w, 2 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.

_55th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 6 w, 3 p, 3 w.

_56th Row._—Purl 2 w, 5 p, 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.

_57th Row._—Knit 4 w, 4 p, 1 w. 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 3 w.

_58th Row._—Purl 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 4 p, 2 w, 2 p, 1 w, 1 p, 4 w.

_59th Row._—Knit 5 w, 2 p, 2 w, 8 p, 3 w.

_60th Row._—Purl 3 w, 4 p, 1 w, 2 p, 10 w.

_61st Row._—Knit 11 w, 3 p, 6 w.

_62nd Row._—Purl 6 w, 1 p, 13 w.

Knit next 22 rows all white, then repeat from the 31st row three times more, ending with 30 rows of white.

Press this band on the wrong side as in the brim, turn in each end to form an angle, and secure on the wrong side with a few stitches made with the woollen thread, press the ends flat, then place the band round the hat in the manner illustrated and sew in place.

To Wash the Hat.

The covering and band are easily removed from the shape when it becomes necessary to clean the hat.

Make a lather of warm soapy water, immerse the covering and press and squeeze through the hands, but do not rub, until it seems clean, then squeeze out all the water possible and rinse in clean warm water, again squeeze as dry as possible, and place immediately before the fire until nearly, but not quite, dry. Have the wrong side turned out. Press on the wrong side with a hot iron until quite dry, pull into shape, and replace over the buckram.

The band, or covering, if it be made with coloured wool, should have a handful of salt added to the lather and rinsing water.

[Illustration: Design No. 8. This Stocking Top is described on page 27.]

Fancy Tops for Socks and Stockings.

Very pretty effects can be obtained for turnover stocking tops by working in plain knitting in two or three shades of wool. The designs illustrated are worked in grey wool, with black and white introduced just to show the contrast, and when worked in bright colours many of these would be very effective. For instance, saxe blue and a bright brown would be pretty on a grey sock, and emerald green and white on a navy sock is another combination; or the boy’s particular school colours can be introduced, giving a uniform touch to his rig-out.

These tops are not at all difficult to work, and can be added to any sock directions. They are best commenced with six or eight rows of ribbing, as this makes them set well, and when the fancy design is completed the work is turned before commencing the sock itself. Care must be taken to see that you have the correct multiple of stitches for the particular design chosen, and, if necessary, add the required number to give this after the ribbing, decreasing them to the original number again, to get the even rib before commencing the sock.

Another point that should be borne in mind is, that the wools must be allowed to run very loosely, or the design will become contracted. You can also quite easily prevent the wools becoming twisted together in the working, if in changing from one wool to another you weave the wools first over, and then under the shade previously used.

If you find you have the design contracted a little when finished, pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth will often relieve this. In fact, all knitted garments are the better for being pressed in this way.

The directions given are for a sock for a boy of from six to seven years of age, and the leg measures 11½ inches to the base of the heel when the top is turned over; the foot measures seven inches from heel to toe.

[Illustration: A FINISHED STOCKING SHOWING DESIGN No. 1.]

The Sock.

Abbreviations Used.

K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (decrease a stitch by knitting two stitches together); St = stitch or stitches.

Materials required: 4 ounces of Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin’s 4-ply grey “Beehive” Scotch Fingering, a half ounce each of white and black wool, and four No. 15 steel needles.

With grey wool cast on 64 st, 22 on each of two needles and 20 on the third needle. Work in rib of K 2, and P 2 for 8 rounds. Work one plain round, increasing your number of st to 70, then commence the fancy top, using the three wools as follows:

_10th and 11th Rounds._—4 grey (G), 3 white (W), 4 G, 3 black (B). Repeat.

_12th and 13th Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.

_14th and 15th Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.

_16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th Rounds._—4 G, 3 B, 4 G, 3 W. Repeat.

_20th and 21st Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.

_22nd and 23rd Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.

[Illustration: Design No. 2.]

_24th and 25th Rounds._—4 G, 3 W, 4 G. 3 B. Repeat.

Work a plain round in the grey wool and decrease your stitches to 64 again.

Turn the work, and commence the sock in rib of K 3, P 1.

Work for 5½ inches, then commence shaping for the leg as follows: K 1, N, work in rib to the four last st of the round N, K 1, P 1.

Decrease in this way four times, with 7 rows between each decreasing.

Work an inch without shaping, then divide the st, putting half on to one needle for the heel, taking care that the decreasings made come in the centre of the needle.

The Heel.

Make an extra stitch, so that you have an odd number on the needle (you should then have 29 st), and knit and purl a row alternately (always slipping the first st) until you have worked the same number of rows as you have st on the needle, ending with a purl row.

K 16, N, K 1, turn.

P 5, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn.

K 6, N, K 1, turn.

P 7, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn, and continue in this manner until all the stitches have been worked on to one needle again.

[Illustration: Design No. 3.]

Pick up 14 loops at each side of the heel, and commence working in rounds again for the foot, continuing the rib on the instep needles, but working in plain knitting for the under part of the foot.

[Illustration: Design No. 4.]

In the first round narrow at each side, by taking the two lowest stitches picked up from the side of the heel flap together.

Repeat this decreasing three times, with 1 round between each. Continue the foot without further shaping for 3½ inches, when you will be ready for the toe.

The Toe.

Put half your st on the heel needle, and divide the remainder between the other two needles. Work the toe in plain knitting all round, decreasing at each end of the heel needle, and at the outer end of the other needles every other round, until you have only 20 st left in the round. Place these on to two needles, and cast off both needles together.

[Sidenote: For the Small Boy.]

Design No. 2.

For this pattern the number of st used must give a multiple of 8.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 G, * W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat from *.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—3 W, 5 G. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 G, * 1 W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat from *.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

Design No. 3.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 6.

[Illustration: Design No. 5.]

Commence the border by working 2 plain rounds in the black wool, then 2 plain rounds in the white.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 5 W. Repeat.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 B, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 W, 1 B. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 W, 3 B, 1 W, 1 B. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—5 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—White.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

4th Design.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 10

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W. Repeat.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—White.

[Illustration: Design No. 6.]

[Illustration: Design No. 7.]

_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—4 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—White.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W, Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.

Design No. 5.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 11.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.

[Sidenote: Effective Patterns.]

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—3 B, 1 W, 6 G, 1 W. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.

Design No. 6.

For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 8.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—Black.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 G, * 2 W, 3 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 B, 3 W, 1 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—4 B, * 3 G, 5 B. Repeat from *.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—Black.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.

Design No. 7.

Only two colours will be needed for this design, and the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 8.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—Black.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Grey.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 4 B, 1 G. Repeat.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 4 G. Repeat

_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 4 G. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—7 B, 1 G. Repeat.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—3 G, 1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—3 G, 1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—4 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—Grey.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—Black.

Design No. 8.

This border works out a good deal wider than the others, and would perhaps be more suitable for a man’s stocking; or to reduce the width the stripes from each edge could be omitted. Stitches giving a multiple of 8 will be required.

_1st and 2nd Rounds._—Black.

_3rd and 4th Rounds._—White.

_5th and 6th Rounds._—Black.

_7th and 8th Rounds._—Grey.

_9th and 10th Rounds._—5 G, 3 B. Repeat.

_11th and 12th Rounds._—6 G, * 1 B, 7 G. Repeat from *.

_13th and 14th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 W, 7 G. Repeat from *.

_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 W, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 W, 4 G, Repeat.

_19th and 20th Rounds._—2 W, * 4 B, 1 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.

_21st and 22nd Rounds._—3 W, 5 G. Repeat.

_23rd and 24th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 W, 5 G. Repeat from *.

_25th and 26th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 W, 7 G. Repeat from *.

_27th and 28th Rounds._—6 G, * 1 B, 7 G. Repeat from *.

_29th and 30th Rounds._—5 G, 3 B. Repeat.

_31st and 32nd Rounds._—Grey.

_33rd and 34th Rounds._—Black.

_35th and 36th Rounds._—White.

_37th and 38th Rounds._—Black.

Making a Child’s Overall from a Narrow Skirt.

Good quality washing materials for making children’s everyday frocks are now so very much more expensive than in pre-war days, that the economical woman who happens to have a number of washing skirts of the narrower type so popular a few years ago, would be wise to make some good use of them.

While it is a comparatively simple matter for the woman who makes her own clothes to remodel a full skirt into a narrow design quite successfully, it is not so simple to adapt a narrow design to a wider pattern. Even if one could match the material, it is never wise to use new fabric with old, and the freshness of the new material would only give emphasis to the fact that the other parts were slightly worn.

Here is a suggestion that may not have occurred to everyone. Have you ever thought what really excellent little garments for the children can be made from the best parts of a cotton skirt? As an example, we are showing how the child’s overall illustrated can be cut from a two-piece skirt of quite the narrowest type (this design only measures 1⅜ yards round the hem) without even cutting into the parts that are likely to be the most worn.

[Illustration: THE OVERALL THAT CAN BE CUT FROM A NARROW SKIRT.]

Whether the skirt used is made of linen, piqué, casement cloth, or any of the stouter washing fabrics, it would serve admirably for making this little frock that can either be worn as an overall over another frock, or as a little summer play frock without another dress underneath.

The skirt made use of in this instance is a two-gored design, with a seam at each side, and to cut the pattern as shown on the diagram, the hem of the skirt should be unpicked, also the side seams from the waist to just below the hips, or just far enough to allow of the skirt being laid flat out on the table.

[Sidenote: Easy to Make and to Slip On.]

Take care to see that you have the skirt placed so that there is an even fold at centre back and front, and the side seams back one another, then lay on your pattern. You will see that in placing the sleeve portion it comes over the side seam of the skirt, giving you two seams in the sleeve instead of one, but the second seam will come on the under-arm so that it will not in any way spoil the appearance of the garment. The collar and cuff portions will need to be lined in order to neaten them, and you will probably find sufficient from the cuttings to cut these out again, or if not, a small piece of white calico could quite well be used for this.

[Illustration: A DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING OUT THE OVERALL FROM A SKIRT.]

The back of the overall is cut down from neck to hem, and finished with a hem at each side, and fastened with buttons and buttonholes.

Many varieties of trimming could be used for a little overall of this description. French knots worked in a contrasting colour along the hem and round the collar and cuffs would be effective, or some simple cross-stitch animal designs would look well.

Use Clark’s “Anchor” Coton à Broder, No. 12.

A frock for a two-year old has been used as an example, but it would be quite possible to cut a larger size in a like manner, though it might be necessary to put a false hem of some other material.

Stitchery.

If you are interested in Needlework, you will like the magazine “Stitchery” that is being edited by Flora Klickmann. It deals with practically every form of Needlecraft, plain and fancy, including Crochet. It is a high-class publication, printed in the same style as “Needlework Economies.”

Re-footing made Easy.

[Illustration: A Hand-knit Sock showing the replaceable foot sections, and the method of reinforcing the heel.]

This method of knitting hose renders it an easy matter to repair the heel and toe when these parts become worn. By simply undoing the end stitch of a row of crochet chain stitches, the sole, heel, or toe part can be almost instantly removed by pulling the thread and undoing the crochet. The chain stitches are used to join the different parts, which are worked separately and then joined together.

When the worn part is removed, a piece exactly the same size is knitted and joined to the remainder of the sock with the row of chain stitches. In this way the leg and instep portions, which seldom wear out, may be made to serve for two or three renewals of the parts exposed to wear.

It is just as easy to knit a sock or stocking in the new way as in the old, and the saving effected by the new way is great, especially now, when woollen thread is both scarce and expensive. The same may be said about cotton thread.

The sock or stocking is begun in the usual way, and may be made either plain or ribbed.

The sock illustrated is a full-size man’s sock, and the joinings are shown in the dark line round the heel, along the side of the foot, and across the instep at the beginning of the front toe part.