Part 8

First of all, machine-stitch the two widths of material together, being careful to match the design on the right side, and carefully press the seam flat. Then spread out on the floor the sateen—also seamed—and, laying the eiderdown upon it, run a tacking thread all round the edge, being careful to stretch the quilt to its fullest, so as not to make the cover too tight. After this run a line of stitching around each and every little eyelet, of which there are many; these hold the cover in position for the next step.

Taking a long thread of a bright-coloured cotton, carefully follow out the design of the quilting, which, in my particular case, was a very elaborate scroll, tacking the stitches right through the quilt to the new piece of material. If the design is very complicated this needs patience; but nowadays eiderdowns are more often quilted in straight lines, with perhaps a diamond centre.

Always tack your pattern on the plain side of the material, as it is so much easier to stitch on the machine later on if there is no pattern to dazzle your eyes.

I would impress on whoever tries this re-covering to be _very_ careful about keeping exactly to the quilting pattern, as on this altogether depends the success of the whole undertaking. It would be most disappointing if, after having finished, you should find that owing to careless tacking the covering was crooked or cramped or drawn. It takes patience and care, but is quite easy and most satisfying.

When you have completed the outlining, lay the quilt on the floor again and tack on the chintz, doing exactly as you did with the sateen, only omitting to outline the quilting, as it is not necessary to have it on both sides.

Next, where the threads outline the eyelets take a stiletto and punch the holes through both sides and button-hole them all round through the double materials. In doing this use silk the colour of the plain-coloured side, as it looks so much nicer than the reverse way.

And now all is ready for the machine. If your quilt is in two colours, thread the machine with the silk matching the sateen and use a bobbin threaded with a shade to match the reverse. Carefully follow out the design which you have outlined, spreading the quilt as wide as possible so as not to get it puckered.

When all the stitching is finished you will be delighted to see that both sides of the quilt are stitched in their own respective colourings.

Take out the tacking threads around the edge, and turning down the edge of the “right side” of the quilt insert a narrow piping cord and sew in by machine. Next turn in the edges of the other side, and hem by hand down to the edge of the cord. This gives a very nice finish as well as a very neat one.

To anybody who desires a frill, though these are not always the prevailing fashion—there being fashions in eiderdowns as in other things—after taking out the tacking thread around the edge of the quilt, insert the frill instead of the cord and stitch firmly by machine. In using a frill be sure to have it made of the two materials the same as the cover, putting the plain to the plain and the fancy to the fancy. Then hem down as with the cord.

A very handsome edge can be made if a thick cord be used similar to those used in upholstery work, but covered tightly with material before sewing to the cover. The pulling tightly of the material covering the cord gives a sort of “cable” effect, and is really very pretty.

When completed I feel sure you will be pleased with the look of your new eiderdown. It costs so little—not more than a few shillings at the outside.

[Illustration: SUGGESTIONS FOR CURTAIN BORDERS.

See the article on page 61.]

Patchwork Quilts.

That useful branch of oldtime needlework, the patchwork quilt, has been revived, and this revival is due to the exigency of economy during war-time. The price of all kinds of materials being so very high, and the need for economy so great, have led to many useful devices, in order to maintain a reasonable amount of comfort during these trying times, and not the least of these is the patchwork quilt.

[Illustration: To form the sides of the padded quilt illustrated on the next page.]

The smallest scraps of cotton, silk, or other material can be utilised and made into coverings, which in many cases may be made very artistic, and durable. In order to carry out the colour scheme of the bedroom for which it is intended, it is necessary to combine only those colours which are found in the other furnishings.

The usual size of a quilt for a double bed is 6 ft. by 5 ft., or if the bed be very large, 6 ft. by 6 ft. The single bed size is 5 ft. by 4 ft. For a child’s cot, 4 ft. by 3 ft. is the average size.

[Illustration: A simple pattern showing triangles in three colours.]

Many of the more artistic kind are made up into bedspread size, which is longer than the quilt, and allows for a fall over each side. The size of a bedspread is usually from 72 to 90 inches, by from 90 to 100 inches.

[Illustration: An effective design for silk patchwork: black and white squares, machined or quilted diagonally in green.]

The pieces of material, which are all of the same kind in each quilt, are cut up into triangles, squares, points, circles, etc., and care must be taken to have the sizes of the different shapes exactly alike. The edges are turned in, then the various pieces topsewn together on the wrong side according to the pattern. It is a good plan to make the quilt in sections, then unite all together.

[Illustration: To form a padded quilt.]

A quilt of this kind must have a lining, and if wanted to give additional warmth an interlining of some kind. Cotton wadding, strips of old white flannel, or any colour which will not run in the washing, sewn together. Old woollen underwear _thoroughly_ washed and with worn pieces cut away, can be made use of, as well as light colour tweeds, etc., but all pieces must be lightly sewn together with flat seams, then tacked on the lining. See that this lining fits the quilt exactly, turn in the edges of both, tack together, then machine stitch or sew the edges together. Blanket stitch may be worked over the edge with coarse coloured silk, embroidery thread, or No. 5 “Peri-Lusta.”

[Illustration: A diagram showing a two-colour star design.]

The quilt is now ready for the “quilting,” without which it would not be complete. This is done on the sewing machine if one be at hand, otherwise hand-sewing with coloured thread, matching or contrasting with the work, is done in running stitch, with here and there a backstitch to make it secure. Use a long sewing needle with “Peri-Lusta” thread, any required colour, No. 8. The lines of sewing can be formed into diamond shape, squares, herringbone shape, zig-zag, or any other form liked.

[Sidenote: About Quilting.]

The following designs are easily made, and will only require scraps of material found lying idle in most households. Old sheets can be made use of for the lining, or perhaps faded casement curtains, which can be washed and bleached, or tinted to match.

[Illustration: An appliqué design to border a plain bedspread. This was carried out in two shades of blue.]

Triangles in Three Colours.

This is intended for scraps of silk too small to allow of variety in the shape. They are all cut into triangles, and the colours arranged to form hexagonal shapes. There are only three colours, and of each you will require two triangles to form the hexagonal shape. Place the six triangles with a point of each in the centre, no two of same colour coming together, turn in and topsew the edges of each of two sides together. Make several of this shape before joining together, then topsew all the hexagonals, which will be found to fit into each other. Finish in the manner already directed.

A Variety of the “Star” Shape Design.

The design shown on page 82 is a variety of the “star” shape design, and three colours are used. Each star has a plain six-sided figure in the centre. In the design this centre is green. Then each of these six sides has a triangle in white. The space between the points being filled with pink, the outer edge of which is, of course, twice as long as one side of the centre.

Suitable for Silk Patchwork.

The design at the bottom of page 79 is the very latest design, and is suitable for scraps of silk, the fashionable colours of black and white being combined in the sample. Blue and white, pink and white, green and white, or any other colours can be substituted. The border has an appliqué of roses cut from cretonne. Each motif has its edges turned under, then tacked to the quilt or bedspread when the quilting is finished. The edge is worked over with green “Peri-Lusta” of the same shade as that with which the “quilting” was done, using outline stitch.

To Form a Padded Quilt.

The design at the bottom of page 80 is intended for forming a padded quilt out of small pieces of silk, sateen, or other material. The hexagonal shape is used here, and the lining of contrasting colour is cut to the same size, then five sides of the shape are sewn together, and the little bag so formed is stuffed with vegetable down, then the other side sewn up. One side of this can be silk and the other cotton.

The long narrow strips for the sides are formed of the principal material in strips of the required length, and double the width the band is to be. Sew the edges together, then stuff with the down through one end, sew the corners together, and these must be cut at right angles, so as to give a nice corner. When all the padded pieces are sewn together, a pretty effect is obtained by going over all the seams with black cotton in feather-stitch. Vegetable down is cheap, and about three pounds will be ample for a large size quilt.

[Illustration: A three-colour design for a patch-work quilt, in diamonds, triangles, and hexagonals.]

Patchwork Appliqué Bedspreads.

Another economical bed-covering is found in the patchwork appliqué. In this bedspread there is no lining required, and cheap cotton material serves for the foundation, or old sheets, casement curtains, bolton sheeting, etc., that have served their purpose can be utilised. They can be tinted any shade desirable and, of course, must contrast with the colours chosen for the appliqué. A deep border turned up on the foundation in the form of a hem is attractive, as seen in the “Fleur-de-lis” design on page 81. Here the foundation is cream sateen, and the appliqué with border cut from similar material, but in a deep shade of pink. The motif is simply outlined with black “Peri-Lusta” in stem stitch, when attaching to the bedspread.

Repairing Table Linen.

[Illustration: Fig. 1. Plain Darning.]

[Illustration: Fig. 2. Twill Darning.]

[Illustration: Fig. 3. Darning for a Straight Tear or Gash.]

Now more than ever is it absolutely necessary to preserve our linen household napery, for the price asked for new linen is enormous, owing to its scarcity, and it is said that in the near future it will be almost impossible to obtain it at any price.

It may not be generally known that linen is liable to the attack of minute insects, which bore through it, just as the moth does through wood, and so weaken it that it soon wears into holes, if precaution is not taken to prevent them. When storing linen, camphor, lavender, cedar wood, etc., are just as necessary for its preservation as they are for woollen goods, and it is said that an apple, hung up till quite dry, then studded all over with cloves, stuck in up to the head, is very potent when attached to the top of the drawer of the chest, or hung on the inside of the door, if the chest be made in this way. All linen should be well aired before putting away. The repairs should be made before sending the linen to the laundry, and if it has been stiffened and glazed, the part requiring mending should be steeped in warm water to take out the starch, and then dried.

When a part becomes threadbare, the best method of repairing is to darn it neatly with fine linen thread, obtained by ravelling a piece of the material. In the case of a table cloth this thread can be got by ripping the hem at one end and unravelling the edge for a few rows. Wind the thread on a reel and keep for the repairing of this cloth, then remake the hem.

Fig. 1 shows the method of doing plain darning, and Fig. 2 shows the twill darning or plain damask stitch.

Insert the part to be darned in the embroidery tambour with the wrong side turned towards you, as all darning must be done on this side of the material. The darning should go well up into the sound part of the surrounding material, and the stitches should be small and even.

[Sidenote: Repairing Table Linen.]

Run in the lengthwise stitches first, taking care to have them a little loose, as they will shrink when washed, and leave a small loop of the thread at each turning, to allow for the taking up of these threads when working across them. Run the stitches according to the thread of the material in perfectly straight lines, taking up only two or three threads and skipping the same number. In alternate rows take up those threads skipped in the preceding rows.

When the weak portion is covered with the lengthwise stitches and about half an inch beyond it at each end, work across in the same way, taking up and leaving alternate stitches, and having the same space between the rows as at first.

[Illustration: These specimens show some of the patterns that are to be met with in damask.]

[Sidenote: Darning and Patching.]

When there is a hole in the linen, it is necessary to cut away the worn edges and make the sides even, then darn as in the preceding case, but have the threads much closer together, continue each lengthwise thread across the hole and darn down below it, leave the loop at the end when turning. (See Fig. 1). The darn when finished should have the threads so close together as to replace the original piece.

For twilled linen fabric Fig. 2 shows the method of proceeding. Begin by working the darning stitch lengthwise across the hole in the same manner as before, then study the material to see how many threads of the fabric are crossed over to form the twill, and proceed to make the crossing stitches, passing over two or three threads and taking up one or two according to the pattern. In each succeeding row advance one or two threads in the same direction.

Even coloured borders can be very successfully repaired, and a correct copy of the original design be obtained in this way, using thread matching in colour with those of the border.

Fig. 3 shows how to repair a rent in the material, or a gash made by a knife, when the edges fit close together. Place a strip of stiff paper underneath the opening and tack securely all round. Darn across the rent, drawing the edges close together, and picking up the threads in each row which were passed over in the preceding. Leave the small loop at each turning as before.

[Illustration: Fig. 4. A Hemmed and Stitched Patch.]

[Illustration: Fig. 5. A Top-sewn Patch.]

Patching the Linen.

When the piece to be repaired is too large for darning, it must be cut out and replaced with a patch of the same material and, if possible, the patch should be cut from linen which has been in use about the same length of time as that requiring the mending. If new material must be used, then let it be somewhat thinner in texture than the other, for if the same material in a new piece be used the patch would be very conspicuous.

[Sidenote: Repairing Table Linen.]

Use fine linen thread and a fine sewing needle when patching. Cut the edges of the hole to a thread of the material, taking away the worn parts completely, cut the patch to fit over the hole and about an inch beyond it each way. Turn in the edges of the hole, making a diagonal slit at each corner, to get a perfect angle and flat seam. Turn in the edges of the patch and tack on the wrong side evenly over the hole, turn to the right side and hem the patch to the edge of the hole with neat small stitches, then backstitch on this right side to the outside edge of the patch, keeping the lines straight and the angle at each corner acute. See Fig. 4.

Fig. 5 shows the inset patch which is less noticeable than the preceding, and suitable for articles which do not have to stand very frequent use and washing. The edges of the hole are arranged as in the preceding, the patch is cut to fit it exactly, with its edges turned in a seam of the same width as that in the hole. Both edges are topsewn together on the wrong side, then the seam opened out and pressed quite flat. If neatly done and the pattern evenly matched, a patch of this kind is scarcely noticeable. The raw edges of the material should be neatly overcast to prevent ravelling.

Darning Damask Table Linen.

When darning damask linen it is quite possible to imitate the design so closely as to render the mending invisible. A close study of the design is necessary to see the number of threads taken up and passed over. In all cases the best thread to use is the ravelling obtained by picking out the threads from the edges of the material.

The illustration page shows the most common damask patterns and the method of darning them. In all cases the lengthwise stitches are worked as in Fig. 2. The pattern is worked by the crossing stitches, taking up and passing over a certain number of threads in each successive row.

The samples are worked with two coloured threads, so that the stitches forming the design can be easily copied.

When doing drawn thread work wind all the pulled threads on a reel, and keep them for mending linen of all kinds, they are the best threads for the purpose.

When Cloths are frayed at the Laundry.

Table cloths and serviettes are usually sent to the laundry, even when the bulk of the washing is done at home, as it is so difficult for the amateur to get the evenly glazed surface that the professional worker gives the cloths. The result is that tablecloths soon show signs of wear and tear, and invariably “go” first down the edges.

As soon as holes and fraying appear at the sides or ends, cut the strip right off, unless it is quite a small rent and can easily be mended. As a rule, when the edges once start to go, they do the job pretty thoroughly. And the best way is to cut off the weak part, before it tears far into the material, and turn a new hem.

If the cloth is then too narrow to use on the dining table, it can be widened or lengthened, by applying a deep hem, which can be joined with fagotting to the cloth. It will be necessary to tack both the cloth that has been cut and re-hemmed, and the new hem on stiff paper to keep it even as you work the faggoting.

Mending a Sheet.

Nowadays, when economy must be the watchword with most of us, a great saving can be effected in our household by paying attention to the requirements of the contents of the linen chest and remembering the old proverb, “a stitch in time saves nine.”

When a piece of bedroom or table-napery shows signs of wear in any part by becoming thin, patching can be avoided by carefully darning the spot with soft cotton or linen thread, running the stitches well up into the sound portion surrounding the weak. But when, as in the case of sheets, a large portion gets thin all over, patching must be resorted to.

The best way to repair a sheet that has become well worn in the centre is to cut it right up the middle and turn the selvedged edges to the centre. Tack these in a flat seam, overlapping the edges for somewhat less than the quarter of an inch (do not turn in the selvedge edge for there must not be a thick seam), using fine sewing cotton of a soft make, stitch along the extreme edge of the seam at both sides, or use the machine if one be handy; in the latter case do not have the tension tight. If the part now turned to the sides shows any holes or any portion of it be very thin, it is better to cut this portion out and replace by a patch.

The piece for this patch should be lighter than the material of the sheet, but of the same kind, and it is always well to keep pieces of the old sheets which can no longer be used for this purpose.

[Illustration: Showing the centre of the sheet with selvedge edges in overlapping seam, and hem-stitching reworked over the seam.]

Cut the patch to the required size by a line in the threads of the material, allowing two or three inches beyond the weak edges in the sheet. Turn in the edges neatly along the three sides of the piece which come in on the sheet, tack the two edges together and spread the patch in place on the sheet, making it perfectly smooth, now tack round the three edges. Hem down this side of the patch.

[Illustration: Showing the patch set into the side of the sheet before hemming, with method of cutting away the worn part under the patch.]

Turn the other side of the sheet and cut away the portion over the patch, leaving half an inch margin, turn in the edges of the margin, snipping the corners to make an angle, tack the seam, then hem or machine-stitch along the edge. The sheet is now ready for hemming the sides, turn in a half inch hem at each side and sew in place. If the sheet has been hem-stitched at both ends a few stitches of this hemming must be undone at each side of the centre seam and then reworked so as to preserve the pattern and give a neat finish to the work.

Books for Little Girls

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

“The Little Girl’s Sewing Book” is unlike any other needlework book that has ever been published, and is overflowing with pictures and little poems, just the sort that a child enjoys. “The Little Girl’s Knitting and Crochet Book” contains instructions for making many articles—easy, attractive, and useful—that a small girl will love to knit or crochet.

A Patchwork Toilet Runner.