Part 9

[Illustration: Strips of pretty Cretonne are joined together, and the hem is of blue print.]

The illustration on this page shows a very effective way of using pieces of cretonne to make a toilet runner. Runners are expensive items to buy, but if you have some pretty pieces of material by you, you can make one with very little trouble and expense.

The one shown is composed of 18 pieces of pretty coloured cretonne, each measuring about 2¼ × 8¼ inches. These are joined together to make a long strip, and the whole is finished with a 1¾ inch hem of blue print, which is machined on.

The border can be of any pretty shade that will tone well with the pieces. Or, if they are of a delicate shade, a hem of unbleached calico would make a delightful finish. This washes excellently, and the soft, creamy tint looks exceedingly well with the pale-coloured pieces.

In selecting the pieces of cretonne to be used, it is essential to employ only those that will launder well. Otherwise with the first wash the whole thing will be spoilt through the colours “running.”

This runner when finished measures 44 inches long by 12 inches deep, but a cloth of any size or shape can be made in this way, and with a little thought and trouble really delightful results can be secured at little or no expense.

If you do not happen to have any fancy cretonne by you, there is no reason why plain coloured pieces should not be used. So long as they are carefully and tastefully blended, quite a pretty cloth or runner can be made. Oddments of casement cloth, linen, cotton poplin, print, can all be saved, and a real economy can be effected by this method of using them.

Modern Bead Work.

Beaded motifs as dress trimmings were never more in vogue than at the present time. Beaded bags, hat-bands, belts and ornaments are all expensive articles to purchase, but they are quite easy to make, and the materials cost but a little.

There are two modes of making the hand-made trimmings and bags, and, of course, this kind is worth much more than that made by machinery, as well as being more lasting and artistic.

In beaded crochet a coloured mercerised cotton, fine enough to pass easily through the beads selected, is used with a crochet-hook corresponding in fineness to the thread. The beads are first put on the thread, using a fine sewing needle for the purpose, or waxing the thread end; the beads are then worked into the design with the usual d c.

In the needle-made variety, which we are illustrating in this issue, each bead is attached to the bead immediately below it, and to the one following it. A very fine sewing needle, with fine linen or glazed cotton thread, is necessary.

The Rose Design.

[Illustration: A Needle-made Beaded Rose Motif.]

This beautiful design is suitable as a single motif for dress trimming, or as a repeat for tops of bags, etc.

Delft-blue china beads compose the background for the rose, which is of a deep pink colour, with small green stem.

Use fine linen thread and a very fine sewing needle. Thread 29 of the blue beads (or any other colour selected for the groundwork), run the needle back through the 28th bead (that is, insert the needle through the 28th bead, between the 28th and 29th, and bring it out through the 28th between that and the 27th), thread a bead, bring this bead over the 28th, and run the needle back through the 28th, as you did before, but run it through the 27th also; thread another bead, place it over the 27th, and run the needle back through the 27th and 26th beads; repeat with every 2 beads to the end. Turn.

_3rd Row._—Thread a bead, run the needle back through the last bead in the 2nd row, thread a bead, run the needle back through the last bead again, in the same manner as before, and through the following bead; thread a bead, and continue as in the 2nd row, introducing the rose beads. After working 7 blue (b), there are 5 pink (p), 3 b, 3 p, 10 b.

_4th Row._—9 b, 5 p, 1 b, 6 p, 7 b.

_5th Row._—7 b, 6 p, 1 b, 5 p, 9 b.

_6th Row._—8 b, 2 p, 8 b, 4 p, 6 b.

_7th Row._—6 b, 1 p, 2 b, 1 p, 1 b, 6 p, 2 b, 2 p, 7 b.

[Sidenote: Needle-made Motifs.]

_8th Row._—7 b, 1 p, 1 b, 2 p, 2 b, 5 p, 2 b, 2 p, 6 b.

_9th Row._—7 b, 2 p, 1 b, 2 p, 7 b, 1 p, 1 b, 2 p, 5 b.

_10th Row._—5 b, 1 p, 1 b, 1 p, 5 b, 1 p, 1 b, 4 p, 2 b, 3 p, 4 b.

_11th Row._—3 b, 5 p, 1 b, 4 p, 1 b, 2 p, 4 b, 1 p, 1 b, 2 p, 4 b.

[Illustration: A Needle-made Star Design and a Bird Motif.]

_12th Row._—4 b, 1 p, 1 b, 1 p, 4 b, 2 p, 1 b, 5 p, 1 b, 6 p, 2 b.

_13th Row._—2 b, 1 p, 1 b, 1 p, 4 b, 5 p, 1 b, 2 p, 4 b, 1 p, 1 b, 1 p, 4 b.

_14th Row._—4 b, 1 p, 1 b, 4 p, 1 b, 2 p, 1 b, 4 p, 2 b, 6 p, 2 b.

_15th Row._—3 b, 6 p, 1 b, 4 p, 3 b, 4 p, 1 b, 1 p, 5 b.

_16th Row._—3 b, 2 p, 1 b, 1 p, 4 b, 3 p, 1 b, 3 p, 1 b, 6 p, 3 b.

_17th Row._—4 b, 5 p, 1 b, 1 p, 3 b, 8 p, 1 b, 2 p, 3 b.

_18th Row._—3 b, 3 p, 1 b, 9 p, 2 b, 5 p, 5 b.

_19th Row._—7 b, 2 p, 2 b, 1 p, 1 b, 7 p, 2 b, 2 p, 4 b.

_20th Row._—6 b, 2 p, 1 b, 6 p, 1 b, 3 p, 9 b.

_21st Row._—8 b, 3 p, 3 b, 1 p, 4 b, 4 p, 5 b.

_22nd Row._—4 b, 4 p, 1 b, 4 p, 1 b, 1 p, 1 b, 5 p, 1 b, 1 green (g), 5 b.

[Illustration: The Rose diagram. The Star diagram is given below.]

_23rd Row._—4 b, 1 g, 2 b, 5 p, 1 b, 2 p, 1 b, 7 p, 5 b.

_24th Row._—5 b, 6 p, 2 b, 3 p, 1 b, 3 p, 3 b, 2 g, 3 b.

_25th Row._—3 b, 1 g, 5 b, 5 p, 4 b, 3 p, 7 b.

_26th Row._—24 b, 1 g, 3 b.

_27th and 28th Rows._—All blue.

The bead at each turning is not included in the number given at the beginning of each row; this is the “turning” bead, and must be used in every row as in the 1st and 2nd rows.

A Needle-made Star Design.

[Illustration]

This lovely design can be extended each way. It is made with 2 shades of blue, but any other combination will prove equally attractive if the shades are well chosen.

Light and dark blue were used in the sample, and, of course, the beads are all of the same size and shape.

Thread 4 dark blue (d b), 7 light blue (l b), 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 7 l b, 4 d b. Turn. In this design the “turning” bead is omitted.

_2nd Row._—Thread 1 d b bead, run the needle through the last bead in 1st row at the side next to the 2nd last, draw out the thread, now run it through the 1st bead in this row towards the 2nd bead in 1st row, and put it through that bead; thread another d b and continue on with 2 more d b, then 8 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 8 l b, 4 d b.

_3rd Row._—2 d b, 11 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 11 l b, 2 d b.

_4th Row._—2 d b, 12 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 12 l b, 2 d b.

_5th Row._—10 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 10 l b.

_6th Row._—10 l b, 2 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 2 d b, 10 l b.

_7th Row._—10 l b, 3 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 3 d b, 10 l b.

_8th Row._—10 l b, 4 d b, 7 l b, 4 d b, 10 l b.

_9th Row._—10 l b, 5 d b, 5 l b, 5 d b, 10 l b.

_10th Row._—10 l b, 6 d b, 3 l b, 6 d b, 10 l b.

_11th Row._—4 l b, 6 b d, 1 l b, 5 d b, 3 l b, 5 d b, 1 l b, 6 b d, 4 l b.

_12th Row._—1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 4 d b, 3 l b, 4 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b.

_13th Row._—1 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 3 d b, 3 l b, 3 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b.

_14th Row._—2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 2 d b, 3 l b, 2 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b.

_15th Row._—1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b.

_16th Row._—1 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 5 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b.

[Sidenote: A Swallow Design.]

[Illustration: A Diagram for working the Bird.]

_17th Row._—2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b. 10 l b, 3 d b, 10 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b.

_18th Row._—1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 9 l b, 3 d b, 9 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b.

_19th Row._—2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 10 l b, 3 d b, 10 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b.

_20th Row._—1 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 5 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b.

_21st Row._—2 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b.

_22nd Row._—2 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 2 d b, 3 l b, 2 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b.

_23rd Row._—1 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 3 d b, 3 l b, 3 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b.

_24th Row._—1 d b, 4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 4 d b, 3 l b, 4 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b.

_25th Row._—4 l b, 6 d b, 1 l b, 5 d b, 3 l b, 5 d b, 1 l b, 6 d b, 4 l b.

_26th Row._—10 l b, 6 d b, 3 l b, 6 d b, 10 l b.

_27th Row._—10 l b, 5 d b, 5 l b, 5 d b, 10 l b.

_28th Row._—10 l b, 4 d b, 7 l b, 4 d b, 10 l b.

_29th Row._—10 l b, 3 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 3 d b, 10 l b.

_30th Row._—10 l b, 2 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 2 d b, 10 l b.

_31st Row._—10 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 1 d b, 10 l b.

_32nd Row._—2 d b, 12 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 12 l b, 2 d b.

_33rd Row._—2 d b, 11 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 11 l b, 2 d b.

_34th Row._—4 d b, 8 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 8 l b, 4 d b.

_35th Row._—4 d b, 7 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 7 l b, 4 d b.

Repeat from the 2nd row.

The Bird Motif.

This is worked with two shades of blue beads—light and dark—bright yellow, and any colour chosen for the ground-work.

It is a beautiful design for a beaded bag intended for a gift. If used for this purpose there must be a larger number of beads in the first row for a foundation, as the number shown in the diagram (52) only gives a width of 4 inches. Allow 14 beads for each extra inch required. Be sure to keep the bird design exactly in the centre of the background, the depth of the design as worked is 3¼ inches, therefore more rows before and after the bird design will be necessary to increase the depth.

Using a fine linen or glazed sewing cotton, thread 53 beads for the groundwork foundation, turn, run the thread back through the 52nd bead, and, working as directed for the rose design, form the 2nd row of groundwork, which, in the illustration is white. The “turning” bead is not included in the numbers composing the design, but it must be used at the beginning of every row.

_3rd Row._—30 white (w), 2 dark blue (d b), 20 w.

_4th Row._—21 w, 2 d b, 2 yellow (y), 27 w.

_5th Row._—26 w, 2 y, 1 d b, 1 light blue (l b), 1 d b, 21 w.

_6th Row._—21 w, 3 l b, 3 y, 25 w.

_7th Row._—25 w, 2 y, 4 l b, 21 w.

_8th Row._—15 w, 6 d b, 5 l b, 2 y, 24 w.

_9th Row._—22 w, 2 l b, 1 y, 12 l b, 3 d b, 12 w.

[Sidenote: A Nursery Casement Curtain.]

_10th Row._—11 w, 2 d b, 14 l b, 1 y, 4 l b, 20 w.

_11th Row._—17 w, 3 d b, 21 l b, 2 d b, 9 w.

_12th Row._—8 w, 1 d b, 25 l b, 2 d b, 16 w.

_13th Row._—14 w, 2 d b, 6 l b, 1 d b, 20 l b, 2 d b, 7 w.

_14th Row._—6 w, 2 d b, 22 l b, 1 d b, 7 l b, 2 d b, 12 w.

_15th Row._—11 w, 1 d b, 8 l b, 1 y, 6 l b, 2 w, 10 l b, 1 w, 1 l b, 1 w, 3 l b, 2 d b, 5 w.

_16th Row._—5 w, 1 d b, 2 l b, 6 w, 1 l b, 2 w, 1 l b, 2 w, 1 l b, 5 w, 5 l b, 1 y, 9 l b, 1 d b, 10 w.

_17th Row._—9 w, 1 d b, 9 l b, 1 y, 6 l b, 19 w, 2 l b, 1 d b, 4 w.

_18th Row._—3 w, 1 d b, 2 l b, 21 w, 5 l b, 2 y, 9 l b, 1 d b, 8 w.

_19th Row._—7 w, 1 d b, 8 l b, 3 w, 1 y, 5 l b, 23 w, 1 d b, 3 w.

_20th Row._—2 w, 1 d b, 25 w, 5 l b, 1 y, 2 w, 1 l b, 1 w, 7 l b, 1 d b, 6 w.

_21st Row._—5 w, 1 d b, 6 l b, 1 w, 1 l b, 4 w, 5 l b, 27 w, 1 d b, 1 w.

_22nd Row._—29 w, 6 l b, 7 w, 5 l b, 1 d b, 4 w.

_23rd Row._—3 w, 1 d b, 4 l b, 8 w, 7 l b, 29 w.

_24th Row._—29 w, 3 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 9 w, 2 l b, 1 d b, 3 w.

_25th Row._—2 w, 1 d b, 1 l b, 11 w, 1 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 1 d b, 4 l b, 29 w.

_26th Row._—29 w, 4 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 1 l b, 11 w, 1 l b, 2 w.

_27th Row._—1 w, 1 l b, 12 w, 3 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 1 d b, 2 l b, 29 w.

_28th Row._—29 w, 2 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 13 w.

_29th Row._—14 w, 2 l b, 1 w, 2 l b, 1 d b, 3 l b, 29 w.

_30th Row._—29 w, 1 l b, 1 w, 1 l b, 1 w, 1 l b, 18 w.

_31st and 32nd Rows._—All white.

[Illustration: A CASEMENT CURTAIN WITH A FILET CROCHET TOP.

See pages 67, 75 and 76.]

Crochet Ribbons for Underwear Beadings.

A very pretty and economical substitute for the silk lingerie ribbon is found in the new crochet ribbons for this purpose. Fine mercerised cotton, or crochet silk thread is used with a fine hook.

[Illustration: The above illustration shows ribbons No. 1, 2, 3 and 4.]

No. 1.

12 ch, turn, miss next ch, 5 d c into next 5 ch, 3 d c into next ch, 5 d c into last 5 ch, * turn with 1 ch, miss 1st d c, 5 d c into next 5 d c, 3 d c into next d c (that is the centre d c of the 3 d c into 1 ch), 5 d c into next 5 d c, miss last d c, and repeat from *.

No. 2.

This is a corded design, and is worked over a single stout cotton thread, such as No. 10. Form a knot on the end of the No. 10 cotton, over the cord put 8 d c, keep the cord gently pulled, to have the stitches close together and the line perfectly straight. Turn, miss 1st 3 d c, 15 d c over the cord into the 15 d c *, 3 d c over the cord alone, 15 d c into the 15 d c; * repeat.

No. 3.

11 ch, turn, miss 1st ch, 1 d c into next ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch as last d c, 1 d c into next 3rd ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch, 1 d c into next 3rd ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch, 1 d c into last ch, * turn, 1 ch, 1 d c into last d c, 3 ch, 2 tr into same d c, 1 d c, 3 ch, 2 tr over each 3 ch except the last, where you put only the 1 d c; repeat from *.

No. 4.

13 ch, 1 tr into the 10th ch, over the tr put 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into the 7th ch, over the tr put 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into the 4th ch, over the tr 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into the 1st ch, * turn, 4 ch, 1 tr into the space between the groups of tr with 1 d c, 4 tr over each, 1 tr over the 4 ch, at the turning 1 d c, 4 tr over this tr; * repeat.

No. 5.

14 ch, 1 d c into the 11th ch, 3 ch, 1 d c into every 2nd ch, * turn, 4 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch into each loop; * repeat.

[Sidenote: Designs that will wear well.]

No. 6.

10 ch, turn, 3 long tr into the 5th ch, retaining last loop of each on the hook until working off the 3rd, then work off all the loops together, and put 1 d c around the top, 3 ch, 3 long tr into same ch as last trs, 3 long tr into 1st ch, 3 ch, 3 long tr into same ch, 1 long tr beside last group, turn, * 5 ch, two groups of long trs with 3 ch between into each 3 ch space, 1 long tr between last trs and following chs; * repeat.

No. 7.

13 ch; into the 10th and 7th, 4th and 1st ch put 2 tr with 2 ch between, 1 tr beside last tr, * turn, 3 ch, into each 2 ch space put 2 tr with 2 ch between, 1 tr between last tr and next chs; * repeat.

No. 8.

15 ch, turn, into the 10th ch put 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch, into the 7th ch, 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch, into the 4th ch, 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch, 1 d c into the 1st ch, * turn, 5 ch, into each picot 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch between the picots, 3 ch, 1 d c into the 3rd ch at the turning; * repeat.

The illustrations show the actual size of the crochet ribbons, so the worker can easily gauge what width pattern she wishes to work. These are so varied in design as to give plenty of choice. If a firm, close pattern is preferred, either No. 1 or No. 2 would be suitable, the latter being particularly strong, the padding cord giving extra durability.