Part 4

These joinings were made in black thread on the white sock in order to show the joinings, but in making a sock they must all be worked with the same thread as in the sock. Then the joinings are not visible on the outside, nor is there a seam on the inside, as the row of chain stitches forms a flat line.

Working the Leg.

In the sock shown here 80 st were cast on three No. 12 knitting-needles. On these were worked 4 inches of ribbing—1 plain, 1 purl. Then 5 inches of plain knitting with a back seam.

The Instep.

Divide for the heel, putting 20 st at each side of the back seam, all on one needle. Divide the 39 remaining st on to the two needles, and continue knitting on these (leaving the heel needle for the present), knit and purl alternate rows until the piece is 6 inches long. Put the 39 st on one needle, and leave this part aside for the present.

The Heel.

Cast on 41 st on a needle in “slip loops,” that is, wind the thread once round the top of the thumb, and take over the loop so formed on to the needle.

[Sidenote: Renewing Worn Portions.]

Knit the 41 loops, purling the 21st for the back seam, which is preserved for the entire heel.

Purl the next row, then knit and purl alternate rows until there are 24 rows in all.

Closing the Heel.

_1st Row._—Knit to the 9th st after the back seam, slip the 10th st, k next stitch, pull the slipped stitch over, k 1, turn (leaving 8 st).

_2nd Row._—Slip 1st st and pull back to the 10th after the back seam, purl 10th and 11th together, purl next st, turn and repeat these 2 rows until all the stitches at each side have been taken in. Cut the thread, leaving a short end attached.

The Sole.

There should now be 24 st at each side of the heel, and 23 along the top of it. Cast on a number equal to these, 71, with the “slip loops.” K and p alternate rows for 4 rows. Then decrease in every plain row in the 3rd and 4th st from each end, thus:—k 2, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end, k 4th and 3rd together, k 2.

Continue until the stitches are reduced to 39, to correspond with the stitches on the instep.

Knit this piece until it is exactly the same length as the instep portion.

[Illustration: How the new Toe and Heel for a Machine-knit Sock are worked.]

The Toe.

Take two additional needles, cast on 20 st on one, and 19 on the other, following after those on the sole needle, making the “slip loops” as before. Join round, and k 2 rows plain.

Decrease in the next round thus:—k first 2 on the sole needle, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end of this needle, k 3rd and 2nd together, k 2.

Knit first 2 st on next needle, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k remainder of needle, k next needle to the last 4 st, k 4th and 3rd st together, k 2.

Knit 6 rounds. Decrease as before.

Knit 5 rounds. Decrease. Knit 4 rounds. Decrease.

Knit 3 rounds. Decrease.

Knit 2 rounds. Decrease.

Decrease in every 2nd round until there are 11 st remaining on the sole needle. Put back and front needles together, and taking a corresponding stitch from each needle, cast off 2 together. Draw the thread through last loop and cut it, leaving a short end.

The Method of Joining.

Commencing at the back part of the leg portion, place the heel in position, having the wrong sides turned towards you.

With a No. 1 steel crochet hook, make a chain on the end of the thread, insert the hook through the 1st st on the heel, and through the 1st st on the needle of the leg portion, draw a loop through these 2 together, and through the chain on the hook, insert the hook through the next st on the heel, slip off the joined st on the needle, insert the hook through the next st on the needle, draw a loop through the 2 st and the loop on the needle, repeat to the end of the needle, then take up the foot part, and put it in place on the heel. Join in the same way, inserting the hook through corresponding stitches. Continue up the side, across the instep and along to the heel again. Fasten the thread, leaving about an inch of it. Work the end into the following stitches to conceal it.

It can be readily seen that when any part is worn and requires to be renewed, the joining thread can be cut and unravelled as far as required.

To Renew the Toe Portion.

Undo the chain stitches along the front, cut the sole part in a line with the front, unpick the threads to get an even line of stitches, pick these up on a needle, and knit the toe piece exactly like the first one. Join to the front in the same manner.

To Reinforce the Heel and Toe.

It is not generally known that these parts can be so reinforced that their durability is prolonged two or three times. The best method of doing this is shown in the sock illustrated.

“Star Sylko” No. 5, matching the colour of the sock, is worked into the lines of knitted stitches, using a darning needle for the purpose.

Take up one side of each st on the needle, draw the thread through, working in perpendicular rows, come back on the other side of the stitches down to where the 1st row was commenced, and so on. In this way the cotton thread is all on the outside of the woollen knitting, and receives all the friction from the shoe, while it never comes next to the skin. The dark strip down the heel shows where the strengthening stitches have been worked in.

To Re-Knit a Heel and Toe into a Machine-Knit Sock.

In the machine-knit sock the heel and toe are not made in the same way as in most of the hand-knit variety, but usually on the lines of the illustration at bottom of page. In the case of the heel, a portion of the leg has been worked to show how the heel is made straight on to this.

[Sidenote: Repairing Machine-made Socks.]

Cut away the heel at its base to the 1st decreasing st. Make a cut across the sole next the heel in a line with the 3rd decreasing at each side.

Turn back 3 rows under the sole, where they must be secured with a flat seam, using a piece of the same kind of thread and a darning needle. Pick up the stitches at the base of the heel on to a knitting needle. Fasten the thread and knit a row. Then purl and knit alternate rows, taking the first 2 st together in every row until the st are reduced to one-third of those in the 1st row.

Continue working a plain and a purl row alternately on these stitches, increasing by picking up a loop at the end of each row from the side of the flap just worked, until you have closed the heel, and have the original number of stitches on the needle. Join to the sole part with a row of crochet chain stitches.

The Toe Part.

This is worked exactly like the heel, picking up one-half of the st round the foot part. Knit the toe part as in the heel, working back to close the toe in the same way, then join to the front part with a row of chain stitches.

[Illustration: Band boxes covered with chintz to match the hangings give a pretty touch to a room. A large bow of plain colour serves to lift the lid. The waste paper receptacle matches the box.]

How to Re-heel a Worn Sock.

When the heel only becomes worn out in a hand-knitted sock or stocking, it is an easy matter to replace the worn-out portion and the adjacent weak parts.

If possible, let the mending thread be a little finer in texture than that used in the stocking, and when not possible to match the thread in colour use white—in fact, many people prefer white heels and toes in their hosiery.

We are illustrating a grey sock re-heeled with white to show clearly how the work is done. Run a coloured thread through each stitch at the base of the heel in a straight line from side to side. In the same way run another piece of thread through the stitches at the top of the sole where it adjoins the heel “closing” portion, that is from the first to the last stitch on the centre of the heel to where the stitches at each side of the heel were raised.

Now count the number of rows in the heel before the “closing” was begun, and the number of stitches at each side of the back seam after the closing was finished. Take a note of these, as the piece re-knitted must fit exactly.

Cut away the worn part that you wish to replace from the second row _inside_ the marking thread, and the second row from each side where the side stitches were taken up. Pick out the cut threads from each side of the heel until you come to the “raised” stitches, which you may leave for the present as they cannot ravel.

Pick out the cut threads from the rows inside the marking threads in the same way. The marking thread should be through every stitch so that they cannot ravel.

Take up the stitches at the base of the heel and re-knit exactly as it was before and close it in the same way. Tie the thread when the last row in the heel closing is done, cut it and work the end in through the stitches.

Thread a darning needle with a length of the same kind of thread and fasten the thread to the beginning of the heel at the right side. * Run the needle behind the next of the “raised” stitches on the sole at the base of that stitch, bring it back to the heel, and running it inwards through the first stitch where it was brought out bring it out through the next heel stitch and repeat from * up to the stitches on the needle which are connected to those on the thread in the same way, slipping off each stitch when joined. Work down the other side in the same way, fasten off the thread and cut it. Work in the end of the thread through a few stitches. Remove the marking threads. This heel will have no seam.

[Illustration]

Slippers you can Make.

Footwear, like everything else, is exceedingly high-priced at present, and to know how to economize in this direction is a serious problem. But have you ever thought of making your slippers? This is really quite possible. Indeed, there is no reason why very presentable shoes and slippers cannot be made at home. In nearly every household the materials are already at hand. Pieces of velvet, tweed, felt or cloth are all suitable, and to show what can be done in this way we illustrate here two pairs of comfortable slippers made from oddments.

The first is a neat pair made from a piece of left-over dress material, in black and white woollen check, a bit of red flannel for lining and some navy serge coating for the soles, which are formed over the usual cardboard. Then the pair of men’s slippers were built up on a pair of leather soles with fleecy lining. Grey tweed left over from making a boy’s suit was utilised, and a scrap of blue flannel shirting forms the lining.

[Illustration: A PAIR OF MEN’S SLIPPERS.]

[Illustration: SLIPPERS MADE FROM CHECK MATERIAL.]

You will probably see the advantage of making these at home, and any comfortable old slipper can be cut up for a pattern.

They are made in the same way if you make the soles yourself, but with the purchased slipper sole there is a slight difference in the manner of attaching the upper.

The Check Slippers.

In cutting the upper, no turnings will need to be allowed for the upper edge, but allow a margin of a quarter-inch around the side which comes next to the sole. Cut both lining and material the same size.

The Sole.

Cut this out in stiff cardboard, then cut a covering for it from the lining material, allowing a half-inch margin all round. Place the cardboard on the centre, and draw the edges of the lining together from opposite sides with crossing stitches, using stout linen thread for this purpose and a coarse sewing needle. The cardboard must be covered smoothly and securely with the flannel and gatherings made at the heel and toe parts. The upper side of this sole is the inside of the shoe, and the stitching underneath. Now lay this sole on another piece of cardboard, and cut out the shape again just one-eighth of an inch larger all round. Lay this on the felt or piece of tweed intended for the outer sole and cut out the shape. Take the cardboard pattern for this sole and cut away a quarter-inch margin around. This smaller shape is put between the inner and outer soles when making up the shoe. Stitch up the side seams in material and lining. Press both seams out flat, place opposite to each other and tack the lining along the top edge to the check material. Now bind the edges together with a strip of ribbon or narrow tape. It is as well to stiffen the back of the slipper a little with an interlining of thin cardboard or tailor’s canvas.

Now take up the flannel covered sole and place the upper over it, having the smooth side of the sole turned from you; sew the edge of the upper very securely to the wrong side of the sole, putting the stitches into the flannel only, and about an eighth of an inch from the extreme edge. Lay the small cardboard sole over the one just put in and secure it with a couple of stitches, place the tweed sole on top of it with its edge overlapping evenly all round. Using thick black thread, the stronger the better, slip-stitch the sole through the inside edge to the upper where it turns in under the first sole. It is necessary to notch the edge of the cardboard stiffening where it overlaps the sole, in order to make it lie flat.

The Men’s Slippers.

The same directions apply to these with the exception of the mode of attaching the ready-made sole. Turn in both edges of the uppers and tack securely around, then top-sew together, place over the sole and stitch the sewn edges to the middle section of the sole, turning back the leather edge for this purpose. No binding was used for this slipper, but the lining had its edge turned in as well as the material, then the lining was tacked with the turned in edge coming a little above the material so as to form a narrow piping around the top.

Artistic Crochet

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

Contains beautiful designs in Crochet for useful and decorative purposes. It is uniform with this volume, and issued by the same publishers.

Mending a Man’s Shirt.

[Illustration: CUFFS FOR ATTACHING TO WHITE SHIRTS.]

One of the many expensive necessaries in these expensive days is a man’s white shirt. In many cases the finished article is treble the price it was in 1914. This is partly due, of course, to the increase in the cost of labour, as there is a considerable amount of skilled work entailed in the cutting out and putting together of a man’s white shirt. And the high price is partly to be accounted for by the increased cost of materials.

But with all the care in the world, shirts will still wear out, and must somehow be replaced. Fortunately this difficulty is not such a serious one as it at first appears; a shirt can quite easily be renovated—and without having that amateurish look that so often just spoils things.

Repairing Shirt Tails.

The first parts to go, very often, in a man’s shirt are the tails. Well, the simplest way to deal with this is to cut them off right across, above the weak places. This is really far more satisfactory than patching. A piece of calico or longcloth from another discarded article is not difficult to get. Measure the same size as the portion cut off. Hem round three sides. Run and fell the fourth side to the shirt itself.

Perhaps you did not know, as I did not myself until recently, that many of the essential details which go to make up the shirt, can be purchased separately. In this way a weak front or collar, or the cuffs can be removed, a new one substituted, and you have a new shirt without its cost.

[Illustration: TWO KINDS OF COLLAR BANDS.]

Cuffs are parts that soon show signs of wear, and frayed cuffs gives the shirt—and the man—a weary look. In this case, unpick the cuffs if possible, if not, cut them off close up. The new cuffs can be bought into which the sleeve is inserted, and the shirt regains its sprightly appearance. At the time of writing, the price of these cuffs is 6½d. and 8½d. per pair, and the result is well worth this small expenditure.

[Illustration: A FRONT FOR A SHIRT FASTENING AT THE BACK.]

Another method of repairing the cuffs is to cut off the frayed cuff, and put on a narrow band. In this case, separate cuffs would be worn. You do not even need to make these bands yourself. They can be bought ready for use.

About Collar Bands.

Most women have, at one time or another, struggled with the shirt collar-bands of their menfolk. When it is your first one, you start off quite happily. After all, you say, it is a simple matter to cut such a band, and will only require a small piece of material. But you soon find out that it is not so simple as it looks, and, being shaped, needs more material than you had thought for. And when you have finished it, you have neither satisfied yourself, nor the owner of the shirt. Men often assume a superior indifference to clothes, but there are certain things about which no indifference is visible, one being the collar band of their shirt. Collar-bands are cut in a scientific manner, and even experienced workers, knowing that they are not very easy to make, will probably be as thankful as less advanced workers, to buy them shaped and stitched, ready for applying to the shirt. These collar-bands can be bought singly or in half dozens, and can be supplied opening at the front or back, according to the fastening of the shirt for which they are needed. The present price of these collar-bands is 3d. each. They are made in white calico, also in sateen for coloured shirts.

[Sidenote: Fronts that you can Buy.]

When Buttonholes are Torn.

“But,” says someone, “buttonholes are my trouble. You can’t, surely, buy new buttonholes to replace the broken ones?” True, but the case is by no means hopeless. If this is your difficulty two courses are open to you. Either refront the shirt, or else an additional front can be worn outside the white shirt. This latter plan would perhaps be too warm in the summer, though an extra front is a useful addition in the winter. The use of separate fronts and cuffs help to solve the ever-present laundry problem, as these can be sent to the laundry for stiffening and polishing, while the unstiffened shirts can be washed at home, thus effecting a very considerable saving in expense.

[Illustration: A FRONT FOR A SHIRT FASTENING IN FRONT.]

If, however, the separate front is objected to, you can buy fronts for letting into worn shirts. There are two kinds, the front in one piece for shirts fastening at the back, and the dividing front for shirts fastening in front. These are supplied square, as shown in the illustration. There are two qualities, price 9½d. and 1/-.

To apply the new front, first tack it on to the old front, then cut it to the shape required, allowing sufficient margin to turn in a fell. Then cut away the unnecessary material at the back from the shirt, leaving here sufficient to turn in a fell. In this way you have practically a new shirt again.

These are the portions that are most likely to show signs of stress and wear. Should any rents occur elsewhere, a little patch must be added.

A Patch may be Necessary.

It is hardly necessary to remind you that it is better to mend and patch with material that is not quite new. Very often a pillow-case that is worn in one part will supply a sufficient amount of sound material for re-tailing a shirt.

In looking through the shirts of your menfolk, you will probably find one wants a new collar-band, another new cuffs, another a front, and so on. They will not all need repairing in every direction. But even if they did, and you had to get several new portions for one shirt, it would be well worth your while, as the cost of these portions is very slight.

Mending a Collar.

Men’s collars are among those articles that one had come to regard as useless as soon as they are torn or worn, and therefore at the first sign of disrepair to be replaced by new ones. Yet collars nowadays are a far more expensive item than they were a few years back; a frequent supply of new collars means a considerable outlay. Before discarding the torn collar, therefore, it is well to see if it is not possible to repair it, and it nearly always is possible.

[Illustration: A FLAP TEAR AND HOW TO MEND IT.]

[Illustration: A BUTTONHOLE TEAR AND HOW TO MEND IT]

The tear usually occurs in the little projecting flap for the buttonhole, either where this piece joins the main part of the collar, or the buttonhole itself. Two such tears are illustrated. Now either of these can be very easily mended with a piece of tape. First of all, wash all the starch out of the collar. When quite dry, tack a small piece of tape over the tear, as illustrated, and machine it in place. This makes a perfectly neat mend, and is quite easy to do. Moreover when the collar is starched again, the tape does not show.

The Wisdom of Preventive Mending.

We do not, nowadays, spend long hours bending over fine stitchery that is destined for no really useful purpose. To efficiently understand how to mend and how to make is our more practical aim. A distinctive and imperative branch of this knowledge is the art of preventive mending.

From the gracious days of our grandmothers, or our even more remote ancestors, comes a lavender-scented remembrance of patiently executed needlework, almost unbelievably fine; wonderful samplers were made and monumental pictures depicting Bible scenes were toiled over until the last of the innumerable stitches was filled in, and the triumph ready to be framed and hung up on the wall of the best parlour.