Part 19
_Miles_ Mammoth Hot Springs (Mammoth Hotel, permanent camp) 5 Hoodoos and Silver Gate 8 Golden Gate and Rustic Falls 9 Swan Lake 10 Willow Park 14 Apollinaris Spring 15 Obsidian Cliff 17 Beaver Lake 17-1/2 Roaring Mountain 20-1/2 Twin Lakes 21 Bijah Spring 22 Fryingpan 23 Norris Geyser Basin 25 Elk Park 27 Gibbon Meadows 28 Artists (Gibbon) Paint Pot 29 Gibbon Cañon 29-1/2 Beryl Spring 30 Soda and Iron Springs 33 Gibbon Falls (80 feet) 33-1/2 Cañon Creek 34 Road to western entrance 35 Cascades of Firehole River } 39-1/2 Road to western entrance } Nez Percé Creek 43 Lower Geyser Basin 45 Excelsior Geyser 48 Biscuit Basin 51 Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful Inn, permanent camp) 54 Kepler Cascade 56 Lone Star Road 57-1/2 Continental Divide 62-1/2 De Lacy Creek 63-1/2 Shoshone Point 64-1/2 Continental Divide 69-1/2 Lake View } 72 Duck Lake } Thumb of Yellowstone Lake 73 Arnica Creek 78-1/2 Natural Bridge } 84-1/2 Bridge Creek } Yellowstone Lake (Lake Hotel permanent camp) 89 Lake outlet 90 Mud Volcano 96-1/2 Grotto Springs 97 Hayden Valley 100 Alum Creek 102 Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone River (Cañon Hotel, permanent camp) 105 Dunraven cut-off 112 Top of Mount Washburn 116 Tower Falls Road 119 Tower Falls (132 feet) 125-1/2 Permanent camp 127-1/2 Petrified trees 128-1/2 Blacktail Deer Creek 140 Lava Creek, Undine Falls (60 feet) 143 Mammoth Hot Springs 148 Gardiner 153
_Distances from Yellowstone, Montana, western entrance, to main road_
_Miles_ Via Cañon Creek:-- Ranger Station 3 Junction of Gibbon and Firehole Rivers 13 Cañon Creek, main road. (This point is 35 miles from Gardiner; for distances beyond this point see table of distances from Gardiner) 17
Via Firehole River:-- Cascades of the Firehole River direct via road up Firehole River. (This point is 39-1/2 miles from Gardiner; for distances beyond this point see table of distances from Gardiner) 15-1/2
_Points of interest and distances from Cody, Wyoming, via eastern entrance to main road_
_Miles_ Eastern entrance 63 Sylvan Pass 71 Sylvan Lake 72 Cub Creek 76 Turbid Lake 83 Lake outlet, main road. (This point is 90 mile from Gardiner; for distances from this point see table of distances from Gardiner) 91
_Points of interest and distances from Jackson, Wyoming, via southern entrance, to main road_
_Miles_ Southern entrance 25 Lewis Falls (upper, 80 feet; lower, 50 feet) 34 Lewis Lake, south end 36 Trail to Shoshone Lake 41 Continental Divide 43-1/2 Thumb of Lake, main road. (This point is 73 miles from Gardiner; for distances beyond this point see table of distances from Gardiner) 48
Mammoth Hot Springs
Here are located the famous terraces, the Mammoth Hotel, the abandoned army post of Fort Yellowstone, and the headquarters of the Park Supervisor. The terraces are near the hotel, and the tourist will have no difficulty in finding his way over them. The principal ones are Minerva, Mound, Pulpit, Jupiter, Angel, Cleopatra, and Hymen. Near the southwest end of the terraces is the Devil's Kitchen--a cave which may be visited. Another peculiar rock formation beyond the Devil's Kitchen is the mass of travertine known as the White Elephant.
Upper Geyser Basin
The Upper Geyser Basin contains more active geysers than all the other geyser regions in the world. Several days might well be spent roaming among the geysers and observing the varied phenomena.
The more important ones are listed in the table on page 439.
------------+--------+---------------------+----------------------------- _Geyser_ |_Height_| _Duration of | _Interval_ |(_feet_)| eruption_ | ------------+--------+---------------------+----------------------------- Artemisia | 50 | 10 to 15 minutes | 24 to 30 hours | | | Bee Hive | 200 | 6 to 8 minutes | 3 to 5 times at 12-hour | | | intervals following | | | Giantess | | | Castle | 50-75 | 30 minutes | 24 to 26 hours: quiet 4 to | | | 7 days, then plays 3 or 4 | | | times at intervals stated | | | Cub, large | 60 | 8 minutes | With Lioness | | | Cub, small | 10-30 | 17 minutes | 2-1/2 hours | | | Daisy | 70 | 3 minutes | 85 to 90 minutes | | | Fan | 15-25 | 10 minutes | Irregular | | | Giant |200-250 | 60 minutes | 6 to 14 days | | | Giantess |150-200 | 12 to 36 hours | Irregular; 5 to 40 days | | | Grand | 200 | 15 to 30 minutes | Irregular; 1 to 2 days | | | Grotto | 20-30 | Varies | 2 to 5 hours | | | Jewel | 5-20 | About 1 minute | 5 minutes | | | Lion | 50-60 | About 2 to 4 | Irregular; usually 2 to 17 | | minutes | times a day | | | Lioness | 80-100 | About 10 minutes | Irregular | | | Mortar | 30 | 4 to 6 minutes | Irregular | | | Oblong | 20-40 | 7 minutes | 8 to 15 hours | | | Old Faithful|120-170 | 4 minutes | 60 to 95 minutes | | | Riverside | 80-100 | 15 minutes | 6 hours | | | Sawmill | 20-35 | 1 to 3 hours | Irregular; usually 5 to 8 | | | times a day | | | Spasmodic | 4 | 20 to 60 minutes | Irregular; usually 1 to 4 | | | times a day | | | Turban | 20-40 | 10 minutes to 3 | | | hours | Irregular ------------+--------+---------------------+-----------------------------
The following springs are well worth a visit:--
Black Sand Spring (about 55 by 60 feet). Chinaman. Emerald Pool. Morning Glory. Punch Bowl. Sponge. Sunset Lake.
Grand Cañon
The tourist would do well to spend some time at the Grand Cañon, as its wonderful beauty cannot be grasped in a short time.
If the cañon is to be viewed from the northern rim a high, steel bridge is crossed over Cascade Creek. At the east end of the bridge a path leads to the right down the edge of the gulch to Crystal Falls, a lovely little falls, that is often overlooked in the presence of the larger attractions. This path can be followed to top of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, 308 feet high, but dangerous. Another path from the end of the bridge leads to the left; this is a short cut to the Cañon Hotel. The main road winds up the hill, affording here and there glimpses of the Grand Cañon. At the top of the hill are the stairs to the Lower Falls. A few hundred feet farther the branch road to the hotel and to Mount Washburn turns out to the left.
On the road about 1 mile from Cañon Junction is Lookout Point, reached by walking a hundred feet out to the right of the road. Down the gulch to the right of Lookout Point is a rather steep trail leading to Red Rock, a fine point from which to view the Lower Falls. Grand View and Castle Ruins are other good points from which to view the cañon.
But better yet is Inspiration Point, at the end of this road. This point, Artist's Point, Lookout Point, and the edge of the Lower Falls are the best places from which to view the wonders of the Cañon. The view from each is different from the others, and each merits a careful inspection from the tourist. This cañon is some 20 miles in length, but it is only the first 3 miles below the Lower Falls that carry the wonderful colors.
Side Trips
Some of the best scenery in the Park lies off the regular lines of travel and many interesting side trips may be taken if the time is available.
FROM MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS
Around Bunsen Peak via Buffalo Corral, Middle Gardiner Cañon, Sheepeater Cliffs, Osprey Falls, and Golden Gate; distance, 12 miles; guide not necessary.
Summit of Bunsen Peak. Distance, 7 miles in each direction; saddle horses may be ridden to the top; guide not necessary.
Electric Peak (11,100 feet). This is the highest mountain in the Park and a fine view is obtained on all sides. The distance is 10 miles in each direction, 8 miles of which may be done on horseback; as the path over the remaining 2 miles is difficult and somewhat dangerous, a guide should be employed.
Mount Everts. Saddle-horses may be ridden up from either end and over the top; total distance is about 15 miles, and no guide is needed.
Buffalo herds. A small herd of buffalo is kept about 1 mile south of Mammoth Hot Springs, on the road to Bunsen Peak. The main herd is kept on Lamar River, about 30 miles to the east and about 12 miles from the Wylie Camp at Tower Falls.
Specimen Ridge and the Fossil Forest are 24 miles southeast by a good wagon road; thence 4 miles by trail. A guide will be needed by all tourists except experienced campers.
Northeastern portion of Park. A trip could be made to include the petrified trees, Tower Falls, main buffalo herd, Specimen Ridge and Fossil Forest, and some of the best fishing in the Park in Yellowstone River in vicinity of Tower Falls, Lamar River and Slough Creek. Permanent camp near Tower Falls provides accommodations after Mount Washburn Road is opened in the spring. There is a wagon road to Tower Falls, Slough Creek, and Soda Butte, but other points would have to be reached by trail, and guide and pack-train would be needed. Excellent camping places in abundance on this trip.
Fishing trips. One-day fishing trips from Mammoth Hot Springs may be made with rig, saddle-horse, or even on foot by good pedestrians, as follows: South on main road to Obsidian Creek, Indian Creek, Upper Gardiner and branches, and Glen Creek, for small Eastern brook trout; distance, 4 to 10 miles. East to Lava Creek, 5 miles, for small native or Eastern brook trout, or to Blacktail Deer Creek, 8 miles, for small native or rainbow trout. East or northeast to main Gardiner River for whitefish, native, Loch Leven, and Eastern brook trout. North, 6 miles to Yellowstone River for whitefish and native trout.
FROM UPPER GEYSER BASIN
From Upper Geyser Basin an interesting side trip is to Shoshone Lake and Geyser Basin. The route is 4-1/2 miles by road via Lone Star Geyser, thence 8 miles by trail. This trip offers good fishing for Loch Leven, lake, and Eastern brook trout. A guide is needed.
FROM LAKE HOTEL
From the Lake Hotel interesting trips may be made by motor boat to the region around the lake, which is not reached by roads.
Camping Trips
As the distance between the regular stopping-places are too long for any except the most active and hardened trampers, the tourist who desires to see the Park leisurely should travel on horseback, by wagon, or in his own automobile. Camping outfits and supplies may be obtained at Gardiner, Yellowstone, and Cody. The names of outfitters may be obtained from the Park Supervisor. There are general stores in the Park at Mammoth Hot Springs, Upper Geyser Basin, and at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake.
Public automobile camps are provided at Mammoth Hot Springs, Upper Geyser Basin, outlet of Yellowstone Lake, and the Grand Cañon. At these places there are fireplaces that may be used in common by the tourist and there are designated areas for tents and for parking.
Clothing
The tourist making the ordinary trip on the automobile stage will not need any special clothing except a sweater or overcoat or other warm clothing for cool days. Heavy shoes or rubbers should be worn on trips through the geyser basins. A linen duster will prove very useful; dusters may be rented at the hotels and camps. Persons camping out in the Park should be provided with woolen riding-breeches or trousers, flannel shirts, light woolen underwear, felt hats, ponchos, and stout shoes. Women should wear middy blouses and cloth skirt or riding-breeches; a waterproof cape may be substituted for the poncho.
Fishing
There is good fishing in almost all of the many streams for cut-throat, Eastern brook, Loch Leven, Von Behr, rainbow, and lake trout and whitefish. The best fishing is, of course, in the streams farthest from the roads. The best fishing near the roads is in Yellowstone Lake and River, Firehole River, Madison River, Lamar Creek and Slough Creek. The fish in Yellowstone Lake are not very game and the quality is likely to be poor. The fly-fishing is best after August 1, but on the higher portions of some of the streams it is good in July. Flies and tackle of all kinds can be bought or rented in the Park. The flies generally used are the following: march brown (early fishing); black gnat; grizzly king; professor; brown hackle; cow dung, dark; cow dung, light; gray hackle, yellow body; abbey; coachman; royal coachman; Parmacheene belle; queen of waters; Jock Scott; silver doctor; white miller (for late evening).
A fishing license is not required.
Yosemite National Park
Location: Middle eastern California. Area: 1125 square miles. Season: May 1 to November 1. Address of Supervisor: Yosemite, California.
For many years the name YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK has been considered synonymous with Yosemite Valley, because only within the last year has it been possible for any one except an experienced mountaineer to enjoy the beauties of the wonderful area of mountains and forest that lies beyond the great Valley. Only a part of it is now supplied with permanent camps, but it is expected that more of these will be established and that more and more of this beautiful Park will be accessible every year. Yosemite is the only great Park that is accessible throughout the year. The season extends from May 1 to November 1, but the hotel in Yosemite Valley is open during the winter for those who desire to see the Park in its winter dress of snow. In winter, however, the higher portions of the Park are accessible only to hardened and experienced mountaineers.
Railroad Connections
The Yosemite Valley Railroad reaches the western border of Yosemite Park at El Portal. This road connects with the Southern Pacific and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé Railroads at Merced, where stopovers may be obtained on tourist tickets, and excursion ticket to Yosemite Village may be purchased for $18.50 for the round trip. Through sleeping and parlor cars are also operated from San Francisco to El Portal by way of the Southern Pacific Railroad. The round-trip fare from San Francisco to Yosemite Village is $23.00. During the season the Park may also be reached by automobile stage from Fresno or Merced on the Southern Pacific and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé Railroads. The latest automobile rates from these points by way of the Yosemite Stage and Turnpike Company are as follows:--
_Automobile stage fares from Fresno or Merced to_--
Yosemite via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration Point, in each direction $14.25
Yosemite via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration Point, including side trip Chinquapin to Glacier Point and return, in each direction 19.25
Yosemite and return to either point via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration 24.00
Yosemite and return to either point via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration Point, including side trip Chinquapin to Glacier Point and return 29.00
Wawona, in each direction 8.50
Wawona and return to either point, including side trip to Mariposa Big Trees 15.00
Wawona and return to either point, without side trip to Mariposa Big Trees 14.00
Automobile Routes
The motorist approaching California over the Lincoln Highway should turn south at Ely and reach the Tioga Road at the eastern border of the Park near Mono Lake; distance about 200 miles. There are two routes from San Francisco: via Stockton, Modesto, and Coulterville, 210 miles; or via San José, Gilroy, Los Baños, Fresno, and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, 280 miles. The best route from Los Angeles is by way of Saugus, Neenach, Bakersfield, Tulare, Fresno, and Mariposa Grove of Big Trees; distance 365 miles.
The entrance fee for an automobile is $5.00 for a single trip, or $8.00 for a season permit. Speed limits range from 8 to 20 miles per hour. On account of the snow the Tioga Road is generally not open before July 15 or after October 1, the Big Oak Flat Road not before May 15 or after November 1, the Wawona Road not before May or after November. Motor-cycles are not allowed in the Park.
Hotels and Camps
At Yosemite Village in the Valley a new modern hotel is now under construction, but accommodations are now furnished by the old Sentinel Hotel, which has been refurnished, and by a number of camps.
_Hotel and Camps in Yosemite Valley_
Operated by Desmond Park Service Company:--
Sentinel Hotel, per day $4 to $5 Yosemite Falls Camp, wooden bungalows, per day 3.50 El Capitan Camp, wood frames covered with canvas and wood floors, per day 2.50
Camp Lost Arrow, operated by W. M. Sell, Jr., per day 2.50
Camp Curry, operated by Curry Camping Company, per day 2.50
Camp Ahwahnee, operated by W. M. Sell, Sr., per day 3.75
At Glacier Point, above the Valley, the Desmond Park Service Company operates the New Glacier Point Hotel, with a uniform rate of $4.00 per day.
At Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Soda Springs, and Merced Lake the Desmond Park-Service Company operates permanent camps known as lodges. These lodges have wood frames covered with canvas and wood floors. The rate at all of the lodges is $3.00 per day, with an additional charge of $1.00 when the lodge is occupied exclusively by one person.
Eight miles from the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, but outside the Park, is the Wawona Hotel at Wawona; rates are from $4.00 to $5.00 per day.
[Illustration: TRAVEL-GUIDE MAP OF THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA
_By permission of the National Park Service, Department of the Interior_]
Tours
The main roads in Yosemite National Park are the Tioga Road, which crosses the Park in an east-west direction almost in its center; the Big Oak Flat Road, by which Yosemite Valley may be reached from Modesto and Stockton; the Coulterville Road, by which Yosemite Valley may be reached from Merced; El Portal Road, between the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad and Yosemite Valley; the Wawona Road, connecting Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees; and the Glacier Point Road, extending from the Wawona Road to Glacier Point. Travel between points in the Park that are not contiguous to these roads must be made on foot or horseback over the many trails that connect the principal points of interest.
Yosemite Village is the center of all activities in the Park and practically all the trips radiate from this point. Every variety of trip may be taken, ranging from a single day excursion to the peaks surrounding the Valley to a 9-day tour of the High Sierra. Arrangements may be made for extended or special trips, but the tours and trips listed below include the more important points of interest. All of these trips are under the supervision of the Desmond Park Service Company and are made on horseback unless otherwise noted. The rates include transportation only. Meals and lodging may be obtained at Glacier Point Hotel and at the lodges at the regular rates.
One-day trips:--
Vernal and Nevada Falls, round trip $3.00
Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point and return, continuous, round trip 3.00
Vernal and Nevada Falls and Clouds Rest, round trip 3.00
Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome via Union Point (short trail), round trip 3.00
Yosemite Point, round trip 3.00
Eagle Peak, round trip 3.00
Pohono Trail to Fort Monroe, thence by automobile from Fort Monroe via Wawona Road to Valley 5.00
North Dome via Mirror Lake, and return via Yosemite Falls, or _vice versa_ 3.00
Lake Tenaya via Tenaya Cañon, round trip 3.00
Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, and Fissures via Union Point (short trail) and return 3.00
Two-day trips:--
Happy Isles, Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point Hotel, Sentinel Dome, Taft Point, Dewey Point, and Inspiration Point 8.00
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Nevada and Vernal Falls 6.00
Three-day trips:--
Happy Isles, Vernal and Nevada Falls, Merced Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, and Washburn Lake 9.00
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Nevada and Illilouette Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel 9.00
Four-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Merced Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, Washburn Lake, Nevada and Vernal Falls 12.00
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, Le Conte, California, Nevada, and Illilouette Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel 12.00
Five-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Tuolumne Meadows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Glen Aulin Falls, Magee Lake, Eagle Peak, and Yosemite Point 15.00
Six-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, Le Conte, and California Falls, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Tuolumne Meadows, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Eagle Peak, and Yosemite Point 18.00
Seven-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, Le Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Meadows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Nevada and Illilouette Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel 21.00
Eight-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, Le Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Meadows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Merced Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, and Washburn Lake 24.00
Nine-day trips:--
Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Cascades, Le Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Meadows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Tuolumne Pass, Mount Lyell, Merced Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, Washburn Lake, and Glacier Point Hotel 27.00
Automobile trips to points reached by road may be made at the following rates:--
From Sentinel Hotel or any of the permanent camps:--
To or from Happy Isles or Mirror Lake, one way $ .75
Round trip to Happy Isles or Mirror Lake 1.25
To Bridal Veil Falls, one way 1.00
To Bridal Veil Falls, round trip 1.75
To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the Village, Cathedral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, round trip 3.25
To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the Village, Cathedral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, Artist and Inspiration Points, round trip 4.50
To Artist and Inspiration Points, round trip 3.00
From Yosemite Valley:--
To Wawona, one way 5.50
To Wawona, round trip 9.50
To Mariposa Big Tree Grove and return to Wawona 7.75
To Mariposa Big Tree Grove, round trip 11.25
To Mariposa Big Trees and return via Inspiration Point and Wawona, including side trip Chinquapin to Glacier Point and return 16.25
To Glacier Point, one way 5.50
To Glacier Point, round trip 9.50
To Tuolumne Big Trees, one way 2.50
To Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 4.25
To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, one way 8.75
To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 15.25
To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, one way 10.00
To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 17.50
From Glacier Point:--
To Mariposa Big Tree Grove and return to Valley or Glacier Point 11.25
To Wawona, one way 5.50
To Wawona, round trip 9.50
The automobile rates from Yosemite Village to El Portal, Fresno, and Merced are given in connection with the account of the railroad connections.
Principal Points of Interest