Part 22
Transportation between Glacier Park Hotel, Two Medicine Chalets, Cut Bank Chalets, St. Mary Chalets, and Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets is by automobile. There is launch service on St. Mary Lake between the St. Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets and on Lake McDonald between the foot of the lake and the hotels near the head. There is also a trail between Going-to-the-Sun and St. Mary Chalets, on Lake St. Mary, as well as between the foot of Lake McDonald and the hotels at the head of the lake. Trails furnish the only means of communication between the other chalet groups and between the chalets and the hotels on Lake McDonald. On the trails the only transportation is on horseback or afoot. The following rates are authorized in the Park:--
_One way_ Automobile fare between-- Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets $3.50 Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel 6.50 St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel 3.00 Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets 1.50 Belton and Lake McDonald .50
There is no regular automobile service to Cut Bank Chalets; a rate of $5.00 for the round trip is made for a minimum of 4 fares.
Launch rates are as follows:-- Between chalets on St. Mary Lake $.75 Between points on Lake McDonald .75
Guides, saddle- and pack-horses can be secured from the Park Saddle-Horse Company, at Glacier Park Station, Many Glacier Hotel, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Glacier Hotel, and Lake McDonald at the following rates:
_Per day_
## Parties of 1 to 5 people:--
Saddle- and pack-horses, each $3.00 Guides, including horse and board 5.00
## Parties of 6 or more people:--
Saddle- and pack-horses, each 3.00 Guides, including horse and board 3.00
Park rules require 1 guide for every 10 persons or fraction of 10. Pack-horses are not needed for short one-day trips, but are necessary for long trips of several days. One pack-horse will carry the dunnage of 10 people.
All saddle-horses are required to be equipped with waterproof slickers, which outfitters supply free.
Glacier National Park contains many beautiful camping-spots, and camping tours independent of hotels or chalets are popular for tourists who like to "rough it." The Park Saddle-Horse Company will furnish complete outfits at following prices for trips of 10 or more days:--
_Rates for complete camping tours_
_Cost per day per person_ 1 person $25.00 2 persons 15.75 3 persons 12.65 4 persons 12.40 5 persons 11.30 6 persons 10.60 7 persons 10.00 8 persons 9.70 9 persons 9.60 10 persons or more 9.50
The above rates include the necessary guides, cooks, saddle-horses, pack-horses, provisions, tents, cooking-utensils, stoves, and everything except blankets. Tourists are advised to bring their own blankets or bedding, or they can rent blankets from the outfitters at $1.00 per pair.
The rates below are for the most popular trips that are taken. In all cases meals and lodgings will be extra at the hotels, chalets, or teepees at the regular rate:--
One-day trips:-- Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets by automobile, and return $3.00 Glacier Park Hotel to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets by automobile and launch, and return 8.50 Glacier Park Hotel to Mount Henry and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Iceberg Lake and return, horseback 3.50 Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Lake and return, afternoon trip, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Glacier and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Cracker Lake and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Granite Park Chalets and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.50 Many Glacier Hotel to Ptarmigan Lake and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 Many Glacier Hotel to Morning Eagle Falls and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Piegan Pass, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 St. Mary Chalets to Red Eagle Lake and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Roe's Basin and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Sexton Glacier and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Gunsight Lake and return, horseback (minimum 3 persons) 4.00 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Many Glacier Hotel via Piegan Pass, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Head of Lake McDonald to Sperry Glacier and Sperry Chalets and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Head of Lake McDonald to Lincoln Peak and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 Head of Lake McDonald to Avalanche Basin and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) $4.00 Head of Lake McDonald to Snyder Lake and return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00
Two-day trips:-- Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel and St. Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, and return, automobile, and launch 14.50 Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets via road or Mount Henry trail, and return (minimum, 3 persons) 8.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Granite Park Chalets and return, horseback 8.00 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) 8.00 Head of Lake McDonald to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) 8.00
Three-day trips:-- Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets and return, automobile, horseback, and launch 18.00 Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets, Mount Morgan Pass, Cut Bank Chalets, Triple Divide Peak, Red Eagle Lake, and St. Mary Chalets, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) 13.25 St. Mary Chalets to Glacier Park Hotel, reverse of preceding trip (minimum, 5 persons) 13.25
Four-day trip:-- Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, St. Mary Chalets and return to Glacier Park Hotel, automobile, horseback, and launch 22.50
Five-day trips:-- Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, St. Mary Chalets, and return to Glacier Park Hotel, automobile, horseback, and launch 26.00 Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets, Mount Morgan Pass, Cut Bank Chalets, Triple Divide Peak, Red Eagle Lake, St. Mary Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Piegan Pass, and Many Glacier Hotel, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) $18.00 Many Glacier Hotel to Glacier Park Hotel, reverse of preceding trip (minimum, 5 persons) 18.00 Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Piegan Pass, Many Glacier Hotel, Swift Current Pass, Granite Park Chalets, Garden Wall Trail, Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald, Sperry Glacier, Sperry Chalets, Gunsight Pass, and return to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets (this trip cannot be taken until the completion of the new trail over the Garden Wall, about August 1, 1917; minimum, 5 persons) 20.00 Many Glacier Hotel over route described above and return to Many Glacier (minimum, 5 persons) 20.00 Hotels at head of Lake McDonald over route described above and return to head of Lake McDonald (minimum, 5 persons) 20.00
Six-day trip:-- Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Sexton Glacier, and return to Glacier Park Hotel; automobile, launch, and saddle-horse 30.70
Seven-day trip:-- Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Cracker Lake, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Sexton Glacier, and return to Glacier Park Hotel, automobile, saddle-horse, and launch 34.70
Points of Interest
_Miles_ Reached from Glacier Park Hotel:-- Mount Henry, trail 7
Reached from Two Medicine Chalets:-- Trick Falls, road 2 Upper Two Medicine Lake, trail or boat and trail 4 Bighorn Basin, trail 4 Dawson Pass, trail 6 Mount Henry, trail 4
Reached from Cut Bank Chalets:-- Red Eagle Lake, trail 16 Cut Bank Pass, trail 7 Triple Divide Peak, trail 8
Reached from St. Mary Chalets:-- Red Eagle Lake, trail 8 Red Eagle Pass and Glacier, trail 16
Reached from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets:-- Roe's Basin, poor trail 6 Sexton Glacier, trail 4 Piegan Pass, trail 12
Reached from Many Glacier Hotel:-- Appekung Basin, trail 4 Iceberg Lake, trail 7 Cracker Lake, trail 7 Grinnell Lake, trail 5 Footpath to Grinnell Glacier 2 miles from Grinnell Lake. Piegan Pass and Garden Wall, trail 10 Swift Current Pass, trail 7 Ptarmigan Lake, trail 7 Morning Eagle Falls 5
Reached from Glacier and Park Hotels at Head of Lake McDonald:-- Paradise Cañon, trail; 4 miles from Glacier Hotel, 2 miles from Park Hotel. Avalanche Basin, trail; 9 miles from Glacier Hotel, 7 miles from Park Hotel. Trout Lake, trail; 8 miles from Glacier Hotel, 9 miles from Park Hotel. Stanton Mountain, trail to the summit; 7 miles from Glacier Hotel, 5 miles from Park Hotel. Snyder Lake, trail; 4 miles from Glacier Hotel, 6 miles from Park Hotel.
The Glaciers
The most accessible glaciers are the Blackfeet and the Sperry, both of which are on the trail leading from St. Mary Lake to Lake McDonald.
Blackfeet Glacier is 2 miles by trail from Gunsight Lake. This is the largest glacier in the Park, having an area of 3 square miles. The glacier is especially dangerous in the vicinity of the upper cascades. Visitors are not allowed to go upon it unless accompanied by competent guides, who should be supplied with ropes, belts, creepers, alpenstocks, and emergency equipment. Each visitor to the glacier should have an alpenstock or stout stick 6 or 7 feet long. The alpenstock should be used to sound for blind crevasses, and in case a person breaks through the ice the alpenstock should be thrown across the crevasse in order to prevent a fall to the bottom.
Sperry Glacier is 2 miles by trail from Sperry Chalets. While the trail is steep, horses may be used to the foot of the escarpment under the south rim of the glacier; walking is recommended. The escarpment may be climbed by means of an iron ladder bolted to the rock, or by way of zigzag goat trails. Whichever method of ascent is attempted, visitors should be accompanied by competent guides provided with ropes. While this glacier is less broken than Blackfeet Glacier, explorations should not be attempted without a guide.
Clothing and Other Equipment
As the most beautiful portions of Glacier Park are reached only by traveling on horseback or afoot, it is imperative that the tourist limit his equipment to the articles absolutely necessary for comfort. Trunks and other heavy equipment should be left at Glacier Park Station or Belton, as only one piece of baggage, weighing not over 20 pounds, is carried free on the automobile stages. As the altitude is high, the tourist should be prepared for cool weather. The following equipment is recommended: Woolen riding-breeches, flannel shirts, medium- or light-weight woolen underwear, woolen army socks, good walking-shoes, leggings or puttees, sneakers, gloves, saddle slicker, and a felt hat (a hat is preferable to a cap for use in rainy weather); a poncho or other waterproof coat should be taken if the tourist is going to walk; slickers are provided with the horses. The best equipment for a woman consists of flannel middy blouse, woolen riding-breeches, woolen Boy Scout stockings, a man's felt hat, and the other articles listed above. Women that object to the poncho because of the difficulty in getting it over the head will find a Boy Scout cape a good substitute.
Essential articles of clothing, including boots, shoes, haversacks, slickers, blankets, camping equipment, provisions, etc., may be purchased at commissaries at Glacier Park Station and at St. Mary and Many Glacier Chalets. The Glacier Park Hotel Company, which operates these commissaries, also makes a practice of renting, at a nominal figure, slickers, riding-breeches, mackinaw coats, and other overgarments.
Stores carrying a similar general line of articles most useful in making Park trips are located at Belton, Montana, the western entrance to the Park, and at Glacier Hotel (Lewis's), at the head of Lake McDonald. A stock of clothing, general merchandise, and camp equipment is carried at Adair's, on the Flathead River, about 2 miles south of Logging Creek.
The Glacier Park Hotel Company operates a laundry at Glacier Park Hotel, at which complete laundry facilities are provided for guests. Tourists at Many Glacier Hotel, Many Glacier, St. Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets can, if they desire, have their laundry sent out to Glacier Park Station.
Fishing
There is fine fishing in almost all the streams and lakes of Glacier Park, the gamest fish being the cutthroat trout, also known as the black-spotted and native. The rainbow, Dolly Varden, mountain, and Eastern brook trout are also found in the waters of the Park. The best fishing is in Two Medicine Lake and River, Cut Bank River, Red Eagle Lake and Creek, St. Mary Lake and River and the tributary streams, Cracker Lake, Cañon Creek, McDermott Lake, and tributary streams, Swift Current River below McDermott Falls, McDonald Lake and Creek, Avalanche, Bowman, Logging, Trout, and Arrow Lakes, and Flathead River and its tributaries. The flies generally used are the black gnat, professor, brown and gray hackle, royal coachman, queen of waters, Jock Scott, and silver doctor. The trout rise to the fly during June, July, and August; July and August being the best months. Early in June and in September spinners with meat bait or salmon eggs are used. Flies and tackle may be purchased at Glacier Park Hotel, Many Glacier Hotel, and Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald.
The Mackinaw or lake trout are found only in Lake St. Mary. They are caught with a spoon or with a combination of spoon and bait, as they seldom rise to the fly.
A fishing license is not required.
Mesa Verde National Park
Location: Southwestern Colorado. Area: 77 square miles. Season: June 15 to September 15. Address of Supervisor: Mancos, Colorado.
Railroad Connections
MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK is on the narrow-gauge division of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and is best reached from Mancos, Colorado, 31 miles from the camp in the Park. Although this Park is farther from the main transcontinental railroad lines than any of the other Parks, the railroad route through the San Juan Mountains is one of great scenic beauty. The routes and fares from Denver are as follows:--
Denver to Mancos via Alamosa, and Antonito, returning same route, or returning via Telluride and Gunnison, $25.00.
Denver to Mancos via Alamosa and Antonito, returning via Durango, Silverton, Ouray Toll Road, Ouray, Montrose, and Gunnison, $30.40.
The automobile fare from Mancos to the camp is $10.00 for the round trip.
The trip from Denver to Mancos requires about 40 hours, one night being spent on the road and one night in Durango, or Telluride, or Montrose.
Passengers holding transcontinental tickets via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad may obtain stopovers at Grand Junction on the standard-gauge line, or at Montrose on the narrow gauge line, and make side trip to Mancos at the following rates:--
Grand Junction to Mancos and return via Telluride, $23.30.
Montrose to Mancos and return via Telluride, $18.90.
Passengers holding transcontinental tickets via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad may make the trip between Denver and Grand Junction by way of Mancos on payment of $20.00 additional.
Automobile Routes
From Denver the best route is by way of Colorado Springs, Pueblo, Walsenburg, Alamosa, South Fork, Durango, and Mancos; distance, about 400 miles. Permit for an automobile costs 50 cents for a single trip or $2.00 for the season. The speed limits range from 10 to 15 miles per hour.
Camp
There is only one camp in Mesa Verde National Park, at Spruce Tree House. This camp is maintained by O. L. Jeep, and the rates are $3.00 per day. Guides and camping outfits may be obtained at Mancos.
Trips
There are no regular tours in this Park, as trips to the ruins are made on foot from the camp near Spruce Tree House. The distance to the important ruins are as follows:
_Distance and direction_ Spruce Tree House 1/4 mile W. Cliff Palace 2 miles S.E. Balcony House 2-1/2 miles S.E. Community House 2 miles S.E. Poole Cañon 4 miles S. Peabody House 3 miles S.W. Long House 2-3/4 miles S.W. Tunnel House 6 miles S. Sun Temple 2 miles S.
The three principal ruins are Spruce Tree House, Cliff Palace, and Sun Temple.
Clothing
Ordinary clothing may be worn, as there are no extended trips or hard climbs. As the nights are cool, a sweater or light overcoat will be convenient. As the auto stages carry only 50 pounds of baggage free, arrangements should be made to store all heavy pieces at Mancos. Such pieces may be taken to the Park by special arrangements with the auto stage company.
Rocky Mountain National Park
Location: North-central Colorado. Area: 358 square miles. Season: June 1 to October 1. Address of Supervisor: Estes Park, Colorado.
Railroad Connections
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK is the easternmost of the great scenic Parks and the most accessible to persons in the East, as its eastern border is only a few hours from Denver.
The town of Estes Park, which is just east of the National Park, and which is the starting-place for all points in the eastern portion of the Park, may be reached from Denver by automobile or by train and automobile. The trip may be made by motor in one direction and by railroad and automobile in the other. The fare is $9.60 for the round trip by any of the routes. The railroad routes are by the Union Pacific to Fort Collins or Greeley, thence by automobile; by the Colorado & Southern to Boulder, Loveland, Longmont or Fort Collins; and by the Burlington by way of Longmont or Lyons. The western portion of the Park may be reached from Granby, on the Denver & Salt Lake Railroad. Round trip from Denver, $8.10. From Granby stages run to the town of Grand Lake, which is just outside the Park. Round trip fare from Granby, $3.50.
Tourist rates to Denver are as follows: From Chicago, $32.50; from St. Louis, $27.50.
Automobile Routes
From the Lincoln Highway the best route is by way of Greeley and Loveland. Distances: Cheyenne to Greeley, 55.2 miles; Greeley to Estes Park, 54.5 miles. There are two routes from Denver--via Longmont and Lyons, 69.3 miles, and via Boulder, Boulder Cañon, and Lyons, 73.3. The best scenery is along the Boulder route.
[Illustration: MAP OF ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
Prepared by R. B. Marshall, Chief Geographer, U.S. Geological Survey Eastern boundary corrected to include addition in 1917]
Hotels
All the hotels in the Park are along the eastern boundary near the town of Estes Park; there are also other hotels outside the Park and near the town. The camps within the Park and the rates are as follows:--
Lawn Lake, Bradley & Patrick $3.25 a day Bear Lake, A. E. Brown 2.50 a day Glacier Basin, A. E. Sprague 2.50 a day Fern Lodge, F. W. Byerly 2.50 a day On Thompson River, Byerly and Rogers 2.50 a day At timber line on trail to Long's Peak, Enos A. Mills 3.25 a day
The address of all these camps is Estes Park, Colorado.
The rates at the hotels near Estes Park are as follows:--
Brinwood Hotel $2.50 to $3.50 a day; $12 to $20 a week Brown Tea Pot Inn $2 to $4 a day; $12 to $25 a week Columbines Hotel $3 a day; $14 to $20 a week Elkhorn Lodge $3 a day and up; $16 a week and up Fall River Lodge $2.50 to $4 a day; $12 to $25 a week Forks Hotel $2 a day; $10 a week Hewes-Kirkwood Ranch $2 to $3 a day; $14 to $18 a week Horizon Hotel $2 to $3 a day; $12 to $18 a week Horseshoe Inn $2.50 to $4 a day; $12 to $25 a week Hupp Hotel $3 a day; $12 to $15 a week Lester Hotel $2.50 to $3.50 a day; $12 to $20 a week Lewiston Hotel $3 to $5 a day; $20 to $35 a week Long's Peak Inn $3.50 to $6.50 a day; $15 to $40 a week Moraine Lodge $2.50 a day; $12 to $20 a week Park Hotel $2 to $3.50 a day; $10 to $20 a week Rockdale Hotel $2 to $3 a day; $11 to $20 a week Stanley Hotel $4 a day and up Stead's Ranch and Hotel $11 to $16 a week The Crags $2.50 to $5 a day; $14 to $35 a week
The following hotels are at Grand Lake near the western boundary of the Park:--
Lehman's Hotel $2.00 a day Langles Hotel 2.00 a day Kauffman House 2.50 a day Narwata Hotel 2.50 a day The Rapid Hotel 2.50 a day
Trips
There are no scheduled trips in this Park and special arrangements must be made. Horses cost $2.50 a day. The most important trips are the following:--
_Miles_ From Estes Park to Hallett Glacier 11.25 Lawn Lake 8.8 Specimen Mountain 20.2 Fern Lake 10.25 Sprague Glacier 13.5 Bear Lake 8.5 Black Lake 12.0 Flat-Top Mountain 11.2 Loch Vale 10.5 Glacier Gorge 10.2 Long's Peak 15.5 Chasm Lake 13.4
From Grand Lake to East Inlet (Lake Verna) 7.5 Flat-Top Mountain 12.5 Specimen Mountain 16.5 Nanita Lake 8.25
Fishing
There is good fishing for native, Eastern brook, and rainbow trout in the lower portions of all the streams and in some of the lakes, although the fish are small. The best lakes are Lawn, Fern, and Odessa. Early in the season during high water the fish will take worms only. The flies generally used later are the coachman, royal coachman, brown hackle, and gray hackle. Grasshoppers are used when they can be obtained. Fishermen must obtain Colorado fishing license costing $1 for residents of the State and $2 for non-residents. Licenses may be obtained in Estes Park.
The Grand Cañon
Location: Northern Arizona. Area of reservation: 1260 square miles. Season: Throughout the year. Address of Supervisor of Tusayan National Forest: Williams, Arizona.
Railroad Connections
THE GRAND CAÑON is reached by a branch line of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fé Railroad extending from Williams, Arizona, to Grand Cañon Station, almost at the edge of the plateau. The round-trip excursion fare from Williams is $7.50; stopovers being allowed on both railroad and Pullman tickets. Some trains carry through sleeper to the Cañon.
Round-trip fares are as follows: From Chicago, $80.00; from St. Louis, $72.00; from Kansas City, $60.00; from Denver, $55.00.
Automobile Routes
The Grand Cañon may be reached by automobile from Flagstaff and Williams. Westbound tourists turn north at Flagstaff, reach the Cañon at Grand View Hotel, follow the rim to El Tovar, and reach the main road at Williams. Distances: Flagstaff to Grand View, 71.5 miles; Grand View to El Tovar, 13.2 miles; El Tovar to Williams, 63.4 miles.
Hotels and Camps
El Tovar is located at the railroad terminus, not far from the head of Bright Angel Trail. Rates are $4.00 and $4.50 a day, without bath, and $6.00 and upwards a day, with bath. Bright Angel Cottages, adjacent to the hotel, are operated on the European plan, and rates for rooms are $1.25 to $1.50 a day; meals may be obtained à la carte at the café. In summer several large tents are used in addition to the cottages.
Trips
As the Grand Cañon is not a National Park there is no way to license the individuals offering horses for hire. Tourists are advised to arrange with the transportation department of El Tovar Hotel for all trips into and near the Cañon. By doing this the tourist is assured of good service and responsible guides.
A fine road has been built along the rim of the Cañon from El Tovar Hotel westward for about 7-1/2 miles to the head of the Hermit Trail. There is also a road running 2 miles eastward along the rim from El Tovar to Yavapai Point. A third road runs eastward 13 miles to Grand View; the western half of this road is through the forest, while the eastern end is along the Cañon rim. There are three trails into the Cañon--Bright Angel Trail, starting near El Tovar Hotel; Hermit Trail, starting 9 miles to the west, and Grand View Trail, 13 miles to the east.
The following trips by coach are made daily from El Tovar:--