Part 15

During a part of this day it rained; and so solitary was the aspect of every thing around me, that a very eloquent idea of the pious orator of Uz naturally presented itself:—

“To cause it to rain on the earth, where no man is;— On the wilderness, where there is no man.”

{104} The next day the weather was severe. The ice among the bushes had become harder; but still it would not bear me, and the water was exceedingly cold. Icicles formed upon my clothes almost immediately. I was continually wading in a greater or less depth of water during the whole day; and sometimes travelled for miles in three or four feet of it without cessation. Travelling through such a depth of water where the ice breaks at almost every step is exceedingly laborious. During this day too, I passed several deep and rapid creeks in the usual way. At dusk I fell in with about twenty Indians of the Wyandot Tribe. They were encamped on a small rise of land which, however, was rather wet. They had recently come from the vicinity of Fort Meigs, and were travelling to some hunting ground. Their condition was deplorable. They had, the day before, buried one of their company, another of them was very sick, and they had no provisions. I had but a trifle myself, and the wants of the sick Indian rendered me supperless.

These Indians surveyed me with rather a grave and distant aspect; but with one of them, who could speak English, I became well acquainted. In the course of the evening some strips of bark were prepared to keep me from the ground; but my clothes being wet, and having no covering it was impossible for me to sleep. Indeed so cold was the night, that the next morning the swamp was frozen very hard. My Indian friend called himself Will Siscomb; and with him I conversed respecting the Great Spirit. During the night I perceived, that the poor Indians suffered much from cold, and from the smoke of their fire. They, however, beguiled the time by their rude songs.

Very early the next morning I left this tawny group, and in the course of the day arrived at Fort Meigs.

{105} Here the Black, or Miami Swamp terminates; but for fifty miles east of this tract, and for the same distance west of Fort Meigs, the country is generally level, covered with trees, bushes, and long grass, and in the spring of the year very wet.

I had long been wishing to see Fort Meigs; and there I rested, for an hour, my weary feet.[93] The Fort is very large, and its situation is somewhat commanding. The Miami of the Lake runs about a half mile west of the Fort; and the river is here about one third of a mile wide.

I have understood, of late, that the courage and conduct of General Harrison, who commanded at Fort Meigs in the course of the last war, was questionable. I shall take the liberty to express a few ideas upon this topic, because it is natural for one to advocate the cause of a brave man, whose courage has been denied, and that too, perhaps, by the most contemptible combination of cowardice and envy.

The spirit of detraction is at once malignant and cowardly. It possesses the capacity to injure, and at the same time the means of shielding itself from detection. A single breath may tarnish the brightest character; the world, therefore, for its own sake, as well as for the sake of justice and humanity, should listen with a jealous ear to the tongue of slander.

I never had the honour of seeing General Harrison; but what, I ask, are the grounds of the charge against him? General Harrison was a fellow soldier and disciple of the wary and energetic General Wayne. His knowledge of military tactics is very extensive, and his courage, for ought I can see, is of a high order. Up to the time of the bloody battle of Tippecanoe, the government, no doubt, thought him brave; and here he was truly so. At Fort Meigs too, he undauntedly maintained {106} his position, in the midst of a wilderness, surrounded by hordes of savages, headed by Tecumseh, and supported by regular troops commanded by the blood-thirsty Proctor. Afterwards he met and defeated the enemy at the River Thames.

Probably his courage was questioned, because he did not, whilst unprepared, press on to Detroit, and expose his forces to that destruction which befel those of Winchester.[94] Many an ignorant militia man, and inexperienced young officer, would have recommended such a course. But Harrison, well acquainted with the requisites of an army, well versed in the stratagems of savage warfare, and knowing well the exposed situation of the frontier, thought best to remain where he was until his own situation, or that of the enemy should warrant an attempt to proceed. Had he marched further west, and by so doing been defeated, every settlement and log hut on the southern shore of Lake Erie would have been ravaged, and their inhabitants, probably, consigned to savage fury.

At the foot of the hill, upon which is Fort Meigs, there are a few log houses. The situation under the hill is very low, and the soil rich. The river here is called the Miami of the Lake, to distinguish it from the Great Miami, and Little Miami rivers, which discharge their waters into the Ohio.

When I arrived at the Miami of the Lake, its banks had been so overflown as to pile up about the houses huge masses of ice. The water had risen so as to flow through the windows, and many swine and other domestic animals were swept from the yards.

I found the velocity of the rapids very great; and there was much danger in crossing them. The opposite bank is pleasantly diversified, and its soil is very fertile. Here Colonel Dudley, commanding {107} a detachment from Fort Meigs, during the last war, gallantly compelled the enemy to retreat; but owing to the imprudent zeal of his brave men, both them and himself were ambushed and slain.[95] Upon this river are situated the Vermillion and other tribes of Indians.

The Miami of the Lake extends above Fort Meigs to Fort Wayne,[96] a distance of about one hundred miles, and then branches to the right and left; one of which branches proceeds in the direction of the sources of the Illinois river, and within about fifteen miles of St. Joseph’s river, which enters Lake Michigan; and the other in that of those of the Great Miami river. Between a minor branch of the Miami of the Lake and the Great Miami there is a portage of five miles. The name of one of the first mentioned branches is St. Mary, and constitutes the river of this name. On this river is situated Fort Adams; and about half way between Fort Wayne and Miami Bay is Fort Defiance.[97] The navigation of the main stream, for vessels, extends only a short distance above Fort Meigs; and from this place to Miami Bay the distance is eighteen miles. Near this Bay is Fort Miami, which was built by the British in 1794.[98] About fifteen miles beyond the Miami of the Lake, is the line between the State of Ohio and Michigan territory.

For twenty miles west of this river there are some rises of land, the soil of which is light, and the growth of timber upon them is principally white oak. In travelling this distance I crossed several creeks, with much difficulty and hazard. Up and down the bank of one of them I marched for hours before I could find a single tree or log to float upon. Just before reaching this creek a bear crossed my path; but having no dogs I could not overtake him.

Soon after leaving the last mentioned creek, {108} arrived at another, which furnished more means of crossing, but in the employment of which there was the greatest peril. A tree lay part of the way across the channel of the creek with its top towards me; but being very large its trunk had sunk far below the surface of the current, so that I could walk only on its crooked branches. Having my gun too, I could employ but one hand in supporting myself, and sometimes could reach no limb for the employment even of that. After crossing a part of the channel, I found the large end of the tree several feet below the surface of the water; and it was disposed to sink further. At the distance of several feet from the end of it was a high stump; and from this to the shore there was a space of water a few feet in depth. I could take no other course than to note the direction and extent of the body of the tree, walk quickly to its end, spring to the stump, and from that to the shore. I effected my object; but was never more sensible of the protecting hand of Providence. The water of the creek was exceedingly cold, and the chill of evening was approaching.

It was now the 17th of March, the ground was frozen, and the travelling very rough and painful. In the forenoon I passed the Bay Settlement.[99] This place contains several scattering houses, which are occupied principally by French people; and the aspect of the whole country is that of an illimitable marsh. Some parts of this tract of prairie are too wet for cultivation. A few miles east of the Bay there are several rises of land, the soil of which is light and well adapted to the cultivation of wheat.

Towards evening I reached the River Raisin. At the distance of a few miles east of it, I entered the Military Road, of which the public papers have spoken, and which leads to the old roads in the vicinity of Detroit.[100] This road is cut through a perfect wilderness {109} of a large growth of timber. It is very wide, and entirely free from stumps. The plan of it, and the manner in which the work has been executed, speak favourably of the judgment and fidelity of the military department.

The travelling on this road is, in the spring of the year, very heavy; and a person on foot is much annoyed by the sharp points of bushes which are concealed by the mud.

At the commencement of the road the country becomes rather elevated, is highly fertile, is covered with a superb growth of timber, and is intersected with streams well calculated for mills.

On the River Raisin stands Frenchtown, an ancient and considerable settlement.[101] The inhabitants on the river are principally French; but the American population is rapidly increasing. The soil here is of an excellent quality, and in high repute. The river, at the settlement, is about sixty rods wide, and it is navigable to Lake Erie, a distance of about twelve miles. The river has been explored for about seventy miles above Frenchtown; and beyond this distance the country is but little known. The land above the settlement is said to be even better than in its immediate vicinity. The name of the river comports well with the nature of the soil; it may be rendered, in English, river of grapes.

I approached this river with a light step and a heavy heart. Hundreds of my gallant countrymen had there fallen victims to British barbarity. Who has heard without horror, of the massacre at the River Raisin![102] When I arrived at this bloody field, the snow had left the hillocks, and the grass began to vegetate upon the soldier’s grave. The sun was setting in sadness, and seemed not yet to have left off his weeds. The wind from the north, crossing {110} the icy vales, rebuked the unconscious spring; and the floating ice, striking against the banks of the river, spake of the warrior souls, pressing for waftage across the gulph of death.

In speaking of our too general employment of militia, I suggested, that in another place I should offer some reflections upon the subject of war.

Nothing but the influence of example, and the ability of the human mind readily to accustom itself to crime and carnage, prevents us from being shocked by sanguinary contests between civilized communities. How astonishing is it, that nations, acquainted with the feelings and principles of humanity, instructed by the precepts and example of the Prince of Peace, and living in the hopes of Heaven, should send armies into the field to butcher each other! The practice is indeed a disgrace to human nature; and the mournful consequences of it must make the Angels weep. How often has the hostile foot suddenly assailed the ear of apprehension! How often has war driven man from his home, and blasted forever his plans of domestic happiness! How often is the wife called upon to mourn her husband slain!—The father his son, the pride and the glory of his old age!—The son his father, the instructor and the guide of his youth!—The brother, his brother of love!—And the maiden, the blooming youth,—the secret joy of her soul!

A state of war is demoralizing in many points of view. It opens a wide door to selfish ambition,—to intrigue, avarice, and to all their concomitant crimes. A habit of engaging in war is very soon acquired; and then the feelings, and pecuniary interests of a considerable portion of the community, renders, to them, such a state desirable. Under such a state of things, the defence of national liberty is often the insincere apology for invasion; and the splendour {111} of military parade, captivating the heart, darkens the understanding, and silences the voice of conscience. The true nature of freedom is here overlooked; passion supplies the place of reason; and false glory is substituted for national respectability. Upon these grounds, the eclat of military achievements undermines the virtue of the state, and military tyranny usurps the place of rational government.

The evil effects of war are incalculable. They continue to operate for ages, and materially affect the ultimate destinies of nations. War, however, is sometimes necessary: but self defence,—in the largest sense of the phrase; self defence, both at home and on Nature’s Commons;—self defence directly and indirectly, is the only ground upon which it should be waged. Here Heaven will always smile, and freemen always conquer.

On the 18th and 19th of March I passed the battle grounds of Brownstown and Magagua.[103] Near the former place Major Vanhorn, commanding a detachment of one hundred and fifty men, was suddenly attacked, on all sides, by British regulars and Indians. The Americans made a spirited resistance, and after suffering severely effected a retreat. Soon after this affair another detachment, under Lieutenant Colonel Miller, consisting of three hundred of the veteran 4th regiment, and also about two hundred militia, were sent to accomplish the object of Vanhorn’s march, which was to support Capt. Brush, who was encamped at the River Raisin, and who was destined for Detroit with provisions for our army then in possession of Sandwich. The enemy anticipating another attempt to accomplish the object, immediately obtained reinforcements, and lay in ambush near the former battle ground. The Indians were commanded by Tecumseh; and the combined forces amounted to about seven hundred and fifty men.

{112} Colonel Miller, although he proceeded with caution, experienced a sudden attack. Perhaps there never was one more furious; or the resistance to which evinced in a greater degree the characteristic union and firmness of disciplined troops.

On the right of the Americans there was a dark wood, and on their left was a small prairie across which was an eminence covered with trees and bushes. In the wood, on the right, the Indians lay in ambush, with a breastwork between them and the Americans. On the small height, on the left, there was stationed a detachment of Indians; and the British regulars occupied other favourable positions. The onset was tremendous. The veteran Miller immediately extended his lines, to avoid being outflanked, ordered a detachment to dislodge the enemy on his left, opened a brisk fire upon the main body of the assailants, and then drove them at the point of the bayonet. At the same time, the enemy was driven from the height in a most prompt and gallant manner. The British regulars retreated; but the Indians still obstinately contended from behind the scattering trees. The regulars, in the mean time, were rallied; and the battle became more general, and more equally maintained. At this eventful moment, the mighty, yet cheering voice of the intrepid Miller, like the roar of a torrent echoing from a thousand hills, inspired with a new impulse his faithful,—generous troops.—In one moment the victory was ours. Early in the engagement, the veteran Colonel was, accidentally, thrown from his horse; and some suppose, that they can still see upon the ground the impression of his gigantic form.

In examining this interesting battle ground, I found, by the numerous scars on the trees under which the Americans fought, that the enemy made a great many random shot. It is to be presumed, {113} that soldiers generally fire too high, especially when the object is at a considerable distance; not considering that a ball, in its passage, describes a circular line. Every soldier should be acquainted with the most simple principles of enginery; and he should practice upon those principles, for the purpose of ascertaining their relative influence upon the character of his piece. General Wayne seemed to be aware that soldiers are apt to fire too high. He was often heard to say to his troops, in battle:—“Shin them my brave boys!—shin them!”

In passing the battle grounds all was silence. Not a leaf was in motion. The misty air seemed conscious that here was the place of graves; and no sound was heard but the footsteps of the stranger who had come to rejoice and to mourn.

Before leaving these interesting, yet melancholy scenes, I may add, that where one is acquainted with the particulars of an engagement, he can view, with much gratification, the positions which the parties occupied, and draw, from their influences upon the result, important lessons equal to those of actual experience.

From the River Raisin to Brownstown the land is highly valuable, and presents some fine scites for farms. The soil is rugged and rich, the timber upon it lofty and elegant, and the streams remarkably well calculated for manufacturing purposes. In viewing these fine tracts I could not but pity those poor fellows whom I have often seen settled upon a barren and rocky soil, scarcely fit for the pasturage of sheep. Unacquainted with the quality of land, and yet devoted to the employment of agriculture, they still cleave to their possessions, which instead of enriching them, will break down their constitutions with labour, and keep them poor all their days. Such persons, however, need not leave the land of {114} their birth and the society of their friends. Let them still employ their industry at home; not upon a less thankless soil.

From Brownstown to Detroit the land is diversified with small meadows and fertile eminences. Here there is a beautiful view of the river Detroit. The rises of land consist of a rich black mould, upon a limestone bottom. At the foot of them there are fine springs, and on their summits a good growth of hard wood.

The day after leaving Magagua I arrived at Detroit, to which place I had long looked for that rest and those comforts, which would enable me to make new exertions. In marching to this place I was constantly employed, with the exception of one day, for seven weeks. The distance from New-Hampshire to Detroit, by the rout which I took, is about one thousand miles. Ere I reached the city my clothes became much torn, and in going through the bushes my eyes were greatly injured. Within one hundred miles east of Detroit, I crossed upwards of thirty rivers and creeks.

The prospect in approaching this place is picturesque and interesting. At the distance of several miles, the traveller, in moving along the western bank of the river, sees several large buildings, and several windmills in the town of Sandwich. This place is very considerable, and is situated on the Canada side of the river, opposite Detroit. The general appearance of this part of the country is truly European.

The city of Detroit is very beautifully situated.[104] Its principal street and buildings are upon a bend of the river, of a mile or two in length, and they occupy the whole extent of it. The bend forms a semi-circle, and the banks of it are gently sloping. The houses and stores are near the summit of the bank, {115} and the slopes form pleasant grounds for gardening. The streets intersect each other at right angles, and the situation is calculated for a large and elegant city. The Fort and Cantonment lie about forty rods west of the main street. From this street a spacious gate opens to them, and at a little distance from it, the road forks and leads to them respectively. The contrast between the numerous white buildings in both of these places, and the green grass contiguous to and around them is very pleasant. A stranger, in visiting the Fort and Cantonment, is agreeably impressed with the neatness of their appearance, and with the order and discipline which are maintained there among the troops. The apartments of the officers too present a studious and scientific aspect; and seem to warrant the idea, that in the officers of our army are united the character of the well informed gentleman, and intrepid soldier. This military post is a very important and responsible station; and the government has made for it a very judicious selection of officers. Several of these officers are of the veteran 4th regiment; and others of them have seen the darkened sky red-hot with battle.

On the evening of my arrival at Detroit, I addressed the following note to Governor Cass: “A gentleman from New-Hampshire wishes for the privilege of introducing himself to Governor Cass. He is upon a pedestrious tour, and therefore trusts, that the roughness of his garb will not preclude him from the honour of an interview. March 20th, 1818.” The Governor replied with his compliments and with the request that I would call upon him the next morning at 9 o’clock. At the time appointed I waited upon him, and was received with that unaffected friendliness and manner, which so well comports with the institutions of the country.

{116} Governor Cass,[105] who is the Supreme Executive magistrate of the Michigan Territory, resides just below the Cantonment; and General Macomb[106] occupies an elegant brick house, erected by General Hull, situated at the upper end of the street. The former is remarkably well calculated for the Governor of a frontier Territory: in him are united the civilian and the warrior. Governor Cass lives in an unostentatious style; his aspect evinces benevolence; his disposition is social, and his manners are plain.

The style in which General Macomb lives is at once elegant and becoming. His military reputation is well known; and in private life he is conspicuous for affability, politeness and attention to strangers.