Part 17

The strait of Michilimackinac is about fifteen miles in length. The course of its current, into Huron or Michigan, depends upon the winds; and is, therefore, very irregular. At times it is exceedingly rapid.

Lake Michigan is about two hundred and fifty miles in length. Its breadth is about sixty miles. Including the curvatures of its bays, its circumference is about nine hundred miles. There are a great many rivers which rise in the peninsula between this Lake and Lake Huron, and which pass into the latter. That part of this peninsula which lies along the south-east of Lake Michigan is but little known. The names of the principal rivers here are Marguerite, Grand, Black, and St. Joseph. The latter is by far the largest, and may be ascended about one hundred {130} and fifty miles. On this river is situated Fort Joseph.[119]

Green Bay, on the western border of Lake Michigan is about one hundred miles in length; and its breadth, at its entrance, is about twenty-five miles. It contains several islands; and there are in its vicinity tracts of low and wet ground. At the bottom of the bay is a little fall,[120] beyond which is a small lake called Winnebago. This lake receives Fox river from the west. At the foot of this bay too, is a fort,[121] and on the west of lake Winnebago is situated a village inhabited by Indians of this name. On the Malhominis river, which flows into Green Bay, is also situated an Indian village containing various tribes. The principal of them are the Lake, Pouteoratamis, and Malhominis.[122] A few families of the Nadonaicks, whose nation was nearly exterminated by the Iroquois, reside here. The Puans once occupied the borders of this bay, and Puans bay was originally its name. The Puans were fierce, and exceedingly hostile to neighbouring tribes. At length these tribes combined against them, and their numbers were greatly diminished.

Lake Michigan and Green Bay form a long point of land called Cape Townsand. Between this Lake and Lake Winnebago are situated the Ootewas. There are several rivers on the west of the last mentioned lake. One of these is Chicago river, near to which is Fort Dearborn.[123] At Chicago the United States have troops stationed.

Would to Heaven, that I could forever forget lake Michigan! Her envious waves have, recently, buried a youth of noble promise. With melancholy pride I remember, that whilst at Detroit, I numbered among my friends the lamented Lieutenant Eveleth. He possessed a genius peculiarly calculated for the engineer department, to which he belonged; {131} and by his mild, yet manly deportment, inspired, even in strangers, both esteem and affection. His countenance was martial; but with this aspect was blended a sweetness of expression which is rarely witnessed.—

“Weep no more,” brother soldiers, “weep no more, For Lycidas, your sorrow, is not dead, Sunk though he be beneath the watery floor; So sinks the day star in the ocean bed, And yet anon repairs his drooping head, And tricks his beams, and with new spangled ore Flames in the forehead of the morning sky: So Lycidas sunk low, but mounted high, Through the dear might of Him who walk’d the wave.”

The tract of country lying between Lake Michigan and Lake Superior is rather sterile. The falls of St. Mary, situated in the strait between Lakes Huron and Superior, are mere cascades. In this strait there are several islands. Below the falls is situated Fort St. Mary.[124] In this strait are caught fine fish of many kinds. The Indian tribes, who have heretofore occupied, and some of whom still occupy this part of the country are the Nougua, Outchebous, Maramegs, Achiligonans, Amicours, Missasangues, Hurons, Nepicrenians, Salteurs, Ontaouais, Amehouest and Otters.[125] Many of these tribes are merged in others of them who have been more powerful, or less unfortunate. The Iroquois, blood-thirsty and incursive, scattered all these tribes, and nearly exterminated some of them. There is, near the falls of St. Mary, a company of traders, several houses, a manufactory, mills, &c. But the vicinity of this place is a perfect wilderness.

Lake Superior is probably the largest collection of fresh water in the world. It is but little known. Its circumference however, has been ascertained to be about fifteen hundred miles. Storms frequently {132} assail it; and a swell, like that of the ocean, dashes upon the high and ragged rocks of its coasts. It contains many considerable islands and bays, and the soil around it is far from being fertile. Some of the islands are from fifty to one hundred miles in length. There are about forty rivers, which pour their tribute into this vast lake, some of which are of considerable magnitude. In the vicinity of the grand portage,[126] between this lake and the Lake of the Woods, there are established several trading companies. Lake Superior is well stored with fish, the principal kinds of which are white fish, trout, and sturgeon. The latter are of a very superior quality.

This lake is remarkable for the pure and pellucid appearance of its water. The fish in it can be seen swimming at a great depth; and the vessels upon it seem to move in air. These effects are, probably, caused, in part, by the peculiar materials of the bed of the lake, and partly by extraordinary evaporation. This last idea sanctions the belief, that in this part of the country the quantity of rain is very great. Some places in the neighbourhood of this Lake are swampy, and some are elevated and fertile.

To the north and west of Lake Superior are several other lakes, the principal of which are the Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Bear Lake, and Red Lake.[127]

Opposite to about the centre of Lake Superior, and on the river Mississippi, are the falls of St. Anthony. This river, above the falls, runs, principally, through Bear and Red Lake; one branch of it, however, runs below them pretty much in the direction of the Missouri River. Both below and above the falls of St. Anthony an almost innumerable number of rivers pour their waters into the Mississippi, some of which are several thousand miles in length. The Missouri is the principal source of {133} the Mississippi, and the latter name ought to be substituted for that of the former. Between the cascades of St. Mary, and the falls last mentioned, lies the North-West Territory.[128]

The Indians, in the north and west, are generally fierce and untameable. They are so attached to the hunter state, that here they are somewhat industrious; but in every other occupation they evince great characteristic indolence. Some of the tribes are politic in all their proceedings; and husband their property and strength. Others, however, are regardless of the future, and look only to the present moment. All are degenerating, in a greater or less degree, and some, through the operation of ordinary causes, are becoming extinct.

Before I leave these immense waters to return to Detroit, I may notice, for a moment, the vast inland navigation which they afford. From the City of New-York to New-Orleans, by the way of the Lakes, the distance is about four thousand miles; and yet, without the aid of canals, the land carriage through this whole route is only about thirty miles. Such is the wonderful superiority of our country relative to inland navigation. Owing to this easy communication between the interior and the sea board, and to the other advantages of a residence in the west, it is to be presumed, that in the course of two centuries the western world will be as populous as the Continent of Europe. Such are the prospects presented to the politician in this country, and such the interest which they are calculated to excite in the breast of the American patriot, that one, in relation to this subject, would wish to live a thousand years. Admiration and concern occupy his mind. He wishes to watch the progress of events; and to apply, from time to time, the salutary principles of rational government. Aware of the oscillating nature of popular {134} sentiment, he fears that in some unfortunate moment the waves of popular feeling will be agitated, and that they will continue to dash even after the cause of their vexation shall have been forgotten.—He realizes, that in proportion to the extent of national territory, viewed in connection with the increase of population, the accumulation of wealth, the progress of arts, the habits of refinement, the corruptions of luxury, and lastly, with the dregs of that spirit of independence, which, in its purest essence, blends charity with suspicion, and forbearance with energy; but, in its deterioration, substitutes for these, a contracted jealousy, and a blind resentment:—he realizes, that in proportion to the extent of national territory, viewed in relation to these circumstances, will be the horrors of political concussion, and the miseries of consequent anarchy or despotism. Such are the effects, which are to be apprehended from the rapid and ultimate increase of the United States, that the American patriot, in view of her prosperity and of his own dissolution, may well exclaim, Oh, save my country!

It is with nations as with individuals; adversity is equally requisite for both. This is the only school where true wisdom can be acquired, and where the native luxuriance of the heart can meet with due restraints.—May Heaven guide our destinies by his chastening mercy!

I now suppose myself at Detroit, and about to leave it for the purpose of crossing Lake Erie. I speak not in vanity, but to do justice to the hospitality of this city: I arrived here an entire stranger, and left the place surrounded by friends. How grateful to the traveller, worn down by fatigue, is the hand of friendship and the smile of approbation! Upon leaving the Government wharf, I felt more than I should be willing to express:—The world do {135} not understand the language of the heart. I consider myself under particular obligations to A. G. W. Esquire. He voluntarily sought my acquaintance, and in the most interesting manner convinced me of his regard. This gentleman is conspicuous for his independence and literary attainments; but his greatest characteristic is native modesty.

Whilst at Detroit, I was much interested and amused by the conduct of an Indian; both by the principles upon which he acted, and the manner with which he displayed them. One morning, whilst conversing with my friend Doctor W. in came an Indian, and putting a finger to his mouth said, with a patient aspect and in a plaintive tone, “very sick.” The poor fellow had been suffering much from the tooth-ache, and he wished to have it extracted. He sat down, and placing his hands together, and interlocking his fingers he evinced, during the operation, much stoicism mingled with an interesting resignation. After the tooth was removed, he asked for whiskey; and immediately upon drinking it gravely marched off, leaving his tooth as the only compensation for the whiskey and surgical aid.

In going down the river Detroit, I was so happy as to have the society of General Macomb, Major M. Capt. W. and Lieut. B.

The river, a mile below the city, is much wider than it is opposite to that place; and a little further down there is a narrow and marshy island about four miles in length. Here we landed and refreshed ourselves from the General’s provision baskets. Upon this island we found an almost innumerable number of ducks; they were heard in the grass in every direction. Vast flocks of wild fowl are almost continually swimming in the river Detroit.

Soon after leaving this island we arrived at Grose Isle.[129] The latter divides the river into two channels. {136} Its soil appears to be good, and its timber valuable. Upon this island, situated about three miles above Malden, there is a small fort in which the United States have stationed a few troops. The situation is very pleasant; and as a military post, is of consequence. A little below this place is a beautiful summer residence belonging to General Macomb, and which, I believe, is called St. Helena. The outlet to Lake Erie, between Malden and the adjoining land, is very narrow. Malden itself is a wretched looking place. It appears, indeed, like a scalp shop. One store, a warehouse, and a few small buildings constitute the whole of this celebrated position. I saw no inhabitants there excepting two or three crippled Indians.

After remaining one night at Grose Isle, I proceeded to Malden, and from thence entered the lake. During the night the wind was high, and we run back a considerable way to avoid several islands called the Sisters. Towards morning, the wind being fair, we continued our course. At daylight we experienced a gale of wind, and run for Put-in-Bay. Our Captain was a very experienced seaman, and perfectly understood the navigation of the lake; but having got among a cluster of little islands, situated near the bay, he was, for a moment, bewildered. Our situation was highly interesting. The darkness of the gale seemed to contend with the dawn; and fancy could almost see it hold the reins of the car of day. The waves dashed, our sloop ploughed the foam, many little islands reared, through night, their ragged tops, our Captain exclaimed, “where are we?” and all was hurly. We were now passing over the battle waves of the gallant Perry. Our little gunless keel moved where whole fleets had stormed. In fancy’s ear, the cannon’s roar had not ceased to reverberate; the undulating wave seemed {137} anxious to bury the dead; the wind, through our scanty shrouds, whispered in the ear of death; and the green wave, reddened by battle, greedily sported around our sides.[130]

Many of the islands near the Bay are not larger than a dwelling house. Their sides consist of ragged rocks, and on their summits are a few weather-beaten trees.

The storm continuing, we remained at anchor in Put-in-Bay four days. During this time I frequently went ashore, and surveyed the island of this name. Wild fowl are numerous here, and in the woods there are swine. The island is uninhabited. Its soil and the growth of its timber are very good. The former abounds with limestone.

This island is rendered interesting by its forming the bay in which our fleet was moored both before and after its great victory; and also by its containing the graves of some of those who fell in the engagement. My visit to these graves excited melancholy reflections. The parade and confusion of battle had passed; and nothing was heard but the chill blast, wending its devious way through the rank weeds. So bloody was this battle, that the victor himself might well have mourned.

It was natural for me here to reflect upon our naval history. During the Revolution our prowess upon the ocean promised every thing; and in the late war even the prophecies of philosophy, and the inspirations of liberty, were distanced. But I must speak of Renown! Where is our Wasp?[131] _True_ glory was her object; and she returns not for earthly honours. Langdon and Toscin sleep in France:[132]—they were buds of fame. Lawrence fell, like Hector, by the shaft of fate.[133] My memory is full of valour’s sons; but they need not the eulogy of my pen.

In one of my excursions into the woods of Put-in-Bay {138} island, I was accompanied by my friend Capt. W. of the United States Army, a gentleman of a scientific and polished mind. Having provided ourselves with some old clothes, we visited a cave situated about a mile from the bay. This cave is smaller than some others in the west; but is, nevertheless, worth a description.

After exploring the woods for some time, we found what we supposed might be, and what actually was the cave. Its front is situated at the end of a considerable rise of land of an oval form. The mouth of the cave was very small; and being covered with sticks and leaves, presented a very uninviting aspect. After removing the obstructions, we took lights, and descending about ten feet perpendicularly, came to a rock, the position of which was that of an inclined plane. This rock is, in its descent, met by the front of the cave, so as to leave an aperture, near the floor of it, of only about three feet in length, and eighteen inches in height. This aperture also was covered with leaves. After removing them, we lay flat, and crowded ourselves, one to time, into an unknown and dismal region. As we advanced the cave, gradually, became higher; and at length we could move in an erect posture. Here we found ourselves in a spacious apartment, constituting about an acre, and surrounded by curious petrifactions. Those on the walls were small; but on the floor of the cave they were large; some of them weighing about thirty pounds. The latter are, generally of a pyramidical form. At the distance of about two hundred feet from the mouth of the cave, we came to a precipice, at the foot of which was a body of deep water. Whilst my companion sat upon the brink of the precipice, I descended it, and holding a light in one hand, swam with the other for the purpose of ascertaining the course and boundaries of this subterranean lake.

{139} In this gloomy, yet interesting cavern, we saw no living thing, excepting two bats, which were in a torpid state. Whilst exploring the most distant recesses of the cave, one of our candles was accidentally extinguished. The extinguishment of our other light would, perhaps, have been fatal to us. The darkness of this dreary region is palpable. No ray of nature’s light ever visited it. Its silence too is full of thought. The slippery step of the traveller, and the stilly drippings of the slimy concave, yielded a contrast which made silence speak. Our own appearance interested us. We forgot ourselves, and unconsciously dwelt upon two ragged Fiends, prying, with taper dim, along the confines of this doleful place. We saw these beings under the low sides of the cave knocking off some large petrifactions. We said, who are they?—and almost shuddered to find they were ourselves.

As soon as the storm ceased we set sail from the Bay, and the next evening arrived at Erie. In this harbour were several United States’ vessels of considerable magnitude. The banks of the harbour, on the town side, are high, steep, and romantic; and from them there is an extensive view of the Lake. The harbour itself is spacious, and the water deep.

At this place the celebrated General Wayne died,[134] upon his return from his campaign against the Indians. Such was the success of this great soldier, and such the terror which he inspired among the savages against whom he fought, that to this day they call him the “_sinews_.” His mode of proceeding into the country of the enemy ought ever to be imitated. Indians may always be defeated by good troops, unless when the latter are ambushed, and surprised. General Wayne proceeded with the greatest caution during the forepart of the day, and {140} in the afternoon employed his men in fortifying for the night; the consequence was, that he avoided every ambuscade, ultimately met the enemy, and gave them a chastising which made a lasting impression upon their minds.

After reaping many laurels in this campaign, General Wayne was returning home to enjoy the grateful salutations of his fellow-citizens; but death arrested him at Erie.—

“The path of glory leads but to the grave.”

After leaving Detroit, I received a letter from the Secretary of the Lyceum there, informing me of my having, on the evening of my departure, been admitted an honourary member of that institution. I mention this fact for the purpose of introducing an anecdote respecting it, which was communicated to me after my return home, and which afforded me much amusement.

In passing through the country, in the early stages of my tour, some weak minded persons, who thought that my excursion was so frought with danger as to render it presumptuous, were offended by the undertaking; and adding a little ill-nature to this idea, their invectives were even more keen than the wintry winds. One of these persons, whose common sense is like Shakspeare’s grain of wheat in a bushel of chaff; and whose learning is equalled only by that of the good Mrs. Maleprop, exclaimed one day, upon seeing some newspaper, which contained an account of the Pedestrian having been admitted into the Lyceum at Detroit, “well, they have got him into the mad-house at last!” Mad-house? said a friend. “Yes”, replied this Xenophen of the age,—“the mad-house!—the Lyceum!—all the same thing!”

{141} From Erie I proceeded to Waterford, a distance of fourteen miles. At this place the snow upon the ground was eighteen inches deep. The spring in the west was very backward. I shall speak upon this topic in another place.

Waterford is a small village, and is situated on the Creek Le Beuf. At this place is a block house, which was erected during the old French war.[135] The Creek Le Beuf is about five miles in length, and about six rods wide. Between this creek and French Creek, there is a little lake, covering about ten acres. French Creek is eighty miles long, and about twenty rods in width. This creek is one of the sources of the Alleghany river, and enters it near Fort Franklin. The Alleghany river rises on the west of the mountains of this name; and after running about two hundred miles meets the Monongahela.

The Creek Le Beuf is very crooked, and French Creek considerably so. The principal boats upon these and upon the Alleghany river are called keels. They are constructed like a whale boat, sharp at both ends; their length is about seventy feet, breadth ten feet, and they are rowed by two oars at each end. These boats will carry about twenty tons, and are worth two hundred dollars. At the stern of the boat is a stearing oar, which moves on a pivot, and extends about twelve feet from the stern. These boats move down the river with great velocity. Through the sinuosities of the narrow creek Le Beuf, the oar in the stern, by being pressed against the banks, gives to the boat a great impetus.

In going up the rivers these boats are poled. The poles are about eight feet in length, and the bottom of them enters a socket of iron, which causes the point of the pole to sink immediately. This {142} business is very laborious, and the progress of the boats slow.

The land near the creek Le Beuf and French Creek, particularly the former, is low and cold. Wild fowl are here very numerous. The lands on each side of the Alleghany river, for one hundred and fifty miles above Pittsburgh, are generally mountainous. The growth of timber here is principally white oak and chesnut, and in some places pitch pine. There are on this river some good lands, and some of a very inferior quality. But some of the best of the Pennsylvania tracts lie in the north-west of the state.