Part 18

The banks of the Alleghany river are, in many places, exceedingly high, steep, and rocky. Whilst moving along the current they appear stupendous. The bed of this river and of French Creek is stony, and the water of them very clear. On these rivers are many rapids, over some of which boats move at the rate of twelve miles an hour. In passing down the Alleghany the scenery is delightful. The boats move with much velocity; the country scarcely seems inhabited; the mountains, almost lost to vision, rise in rude majesty on both sides of the river; the pellucid aspect of the water; the darting fish; the anxious loon; the profound solitude, rendered more impressive by the regular dash of the oar: all these, and many other circumstances, carry the mind back to the days, when the original occupants of the neighbouring wilds lived under the simple government of nature, and did not dream of the storm, which civilization was preparing for them.

On French Creek are situated Meadville, Franklin, and several other inconsiderable places. Here too are the remains of several old forts. At Fort Franklin the French formerly kept a garrison.[136] As {143} far down this river as Meadville the water is still. The principal falls on this creek and Alleghany river, are Montgomery, Patterson, Amberson, Nichalson, and Catfish. The creeks and rivers, which enter these waters, are numerous; but it is not deemed worth while to name them: the principal, however, of those which enters the Alleghany are Toby’s, Sandy, Lick, Pine, and Buffalo creeks; and Crooked and Kiskernanetas rivers.[137] In some places on the Alleghany hills, there are fine farms. On the river is situated the little village of Armstrong; and behind the hills stands Lawrencetown.[138] I found marching over these mountains very laborious; but the prospects from them richly repaid me for my pains. Here I dwelt upon the situation of this vicinity about the middle of the seventeenth century; of the wars between our ancestors and the French and Indians; and of the youthful patriotism and prowess of our inimitable Washington. At the age of twenty-one, he was employed by his native State in an enterprise, which required great courage, prudence, and physical vigour. Whilst this part of the country was occupied by the French, and inhabited by many hostile tribes of Indians, he travelled from Will’s Creek, in Virginia, to Fort Du Quesne, situated at the forks of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers; and from thence up the former to the French Fort on the Le Beuf.[139] During a part of this journey he proceeded on foot, with a gun in his hand and a pack on his back. This enterprise developed faculties which afterwards saved his country.

To eulogize this great and good man is in vain. He is so far above our praise, that we can honour him only in serving that country which he so much loved. His wisdom and virtue constitute the greatest of human examples. Our children should early {144} be taught to know, to love, and to imitate him.

The Alleghany river, near Pittsburgh, presents an expansive aspect. At this place it meets the Monongahela from the south, and both pour their waters into the Ohio. In this union there is a silent grandeur.

About two miles above this junction, on the Alleghany, is a small Fort; and here some troops are stationed. The situation of the Fort is very retired and interesting.

Pittsburgh lies in the state of Pennsylvania, and is situated on the point of land formed by the Alleghany and Monongahela. Fort Pitt occupies the scite of the old Fort Du Quesne; but even the former is now in ruins.[140] Opposite to Pittsburgh, on the Alleghany, is a considerable village, and preparation is making for building a bridge across this part of the river. There are also a considerable number of buildings on the opposite side of the Monongahela. Immediately back of these buildings there is a ridge of very high and steep hills, which contain inexhaustible coal mines. Some coal mines exist also in the Alleghany hills, and in the banks of the Ohio. Those on the west of the Monongahela, constitute a horizontal strata six inches thick and apparently unlimited in its direction through the mountain. This coal is superior to that of England: it is heavier, and contains a greater quantity of the bituminous quality. The general price of this article at Pittsburgh is about six cents a bushel.

The town of Pittsburgh, viewed from the confluence of the two rivers, presents a contracted and an unfavourable aspect; but from other situations it appears much better. Its scite is level and rather low; and the rivers, during their rise, flow for a considerable distance into the streets. The town {145} is very large. Many of its buildings are of brick, and are generally of a large size. The streets cross each other at right angles, but are quite narrow. Owing to the exclusive use of coal here, both by the manufacturer, and by private families, the whole town presents a smoky appearance. Even the complexion of the people is affected by this cause. The business of Pittsburgh is great; but is generally believed to be declining. This place is engaged in trade, more or less, with the whole western world; and may be considered the metropolis of this vast tract of country. It procures its foreign goods, principally, from Philadelphia and Baltimore; which goods are brought in waggons across the Alleghany mountains. The distance from these places to Pittsburgh is about three hundred miles; and the price of conveying the goods thither by the usual route, is from five to six dollars per one hundred weight. This place also transacts some little business with the City of New-York, by the way of the Hudson and Mohawk, Lakes Ontario and Erie, and the river Alleghany. Provisions in Pittsburgh are, generally, cheap. Foreign goods, however, are necessarily high.

This place is celebrated for its manufactories, and will become the Birmingham of America. Here, one may see the surprising progress, which the people of this country are making in mechanics of almost every kind, both as it respects invention and workmanship. Indeed it is evident, that in the United States the elements of the body politic are all in the most healthful action, and that we are rapidly approaching to a glorious manhood. We have only, in our progress, to guard against two evils:—an undue attachment to money, and too little regard for sound morals and solid learning. The extraordinary attention, which has of late been paid to the {146} moral and religious education of children, promises to furnish for the future service of our country, men of _true_ wisdom;—“men who will fear God and hate covetousness.”

Speaking merely as a politician, I may say, that a due regard to this part of education is the great desideratum in civil government. But in relation to a future state the subject is of infinitely greater consequence. Our sabbath schools, in which children are taught to commit to memory the Sacred Oracles, have been attended with such wonderful success, that they appear to be forming a new epoch in the progress of the Christian Religion. This is a field in which thousands can do much good. Heaven has thus opened a new vineyard, in which almost any one may remove the noxious weed, and nourish the tender plant.

Ship and boat building is actively carried on at Pittsburgh; but of late no vessels of a large tonnage have been made, on account of the dangers incident to getting them down the Ohio. Very few of the vessels and boats built here ever return up the river so far as this place; and of course there is here a constant demand for new vessels. Strangers from every part of the sea board, generally take this place in their way to the West. Emigrants from every quarter are continually arriving here, and stand in need of boats of various kinds to transport their goods and their families. A great many foreign emigrants, particularly those of them who are mechanics, are often arriving from New-York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, to Pittsburgh; and from the latter place some of them pass on to the manufacturing establishments further west.

The sects of christians in Pittsburgh are very numerous. The Christian Religion is so momentous, and, _in some respects_, so mysterious a subject, that it {147} is perfectly natural for people, in looking beyond those of its principles, which are easily understood, and which are sufficient to make plain before us the path of duty, to be divided in opinion respecting it. This would be the effect, in a greater or less degree, upon all abstract questions, or upon questions involving principles beyond the reach of our intellectual vision. The human mind too, is prone to dispute upon unessential points; and here, principally, arises pride of opinion, and the spirit of persecution.—There is nothing in the questions themselves to ennoble the mind, or to give force and dignity to its investigations. It is upon trifles, that even great minds become passionate.

Nearly all the sects of christians subscribe to the doctrines of faith, repentance, holiness, and charity; of course the great variety of sects do not call in question the consistency of God’s holy word.

Trifles give rise to sects; pride supports, and novelty obtains proselytes for them. Upon these trifles are, from time to time, engrafted views and objects of more weight, and hence the sect becomes respectable.—A congregational society becomes divided on account of some petty dispute upon a minor question involved in church discipline, or in relation to taxation for the support of the ministry. The consequence is, that in a few weeks an episcopalian, and a baptist, and perhaps other societies become established in the same town. Where the oppositionists will not resort to a new form, some variations will be suggested, and texts of scripture will be found to sanction them.—The protestants gave rise to the sect of puritans; and the presbyterians have created the sect of seceders.

No man who is acquainted with the human mind and heart, and who is well versed in ecclesiastical history, will ever suffer himself to be partial to one {148} sect above another of sincere and pious Christians. A man cannot say, that, under certain circumstances, he might not himself become a bitter sectary. What has been may be again; and what may be may be now.—Our righteous ancestors fled from the persecuting hand of christianized Europe; and, in America, they, in their turn, persecuted unto death the sect of Quakers. Where was their humility!—where was their charity! I would sooner trust a mad man than a religious zealot; and I should think that man weak minded, who would not be perfectly and equally willing to engage in public worship with any sect of pious and sincere Christians on earth.

Many people pretend to know too much respecting the mysterious parts of religion. The great apostle of the Gentiles, who, as a man, possessed a powerful and highly improved mind, and, as a christian, abounded in grace said, that “here we see through a glass darkly;” yet mere babes in the knowledge of the christian system, pretend even to demonstrate concerning it, what, in the nature of things, is not demonstrable. In young ministers this is the foppery of learning; and in old ones clerical pride.

Many persons too, are dissatisfied with the light which exists upon this subject; and hence arise fruitless speculations, and ultimate unbelief. God has sufficiently enlightened our path to futurity; and he has condescendingly done it, to quicken us in the christian course, and to cheer us in the hour of death. Instead, however, of gratefully considering this expression of kindness as a gift, we look, with discontent, for the development of the whole counsel of Heaven concerning us:—this is pride!—this is presumption!

But I may add, that if this light affects _only_ the reasoning powers of man, it will never, _in my humble {149} opinion_, eventuate in that faith which is necessary to the production of a pure heart and holy life. The _moral_ as well as the intellectual man must be enlightened. True faith resides altogether in the heart.—This is the theatre of hope and fear, joy and sorrow, love and hatred;—the theatre of guilt, and of repentance; the theatre of rebellion, of obedience, and of prayer.

As I dislike to see a layman in theology, or a theologian in politics, I shall say no more upon this subject.

The people of Pittsburgh are not, generally speaking, remarkable for their sociability. They are very attentive to their business, and seem to care but little about those around them. A next-door neighbour is, with them, frequently unknown; and months and years pass, without their exchanging with each other the ordinary compliments of friendship and good will. As is the case with many of the cities of Europe, a simple partition renders unknown, for a great length of time, those who live under the same roof.

The inhabitants of Pittsburgh are very suspicious of the Yankees; and judging from the character of a few, uncharitably condemn the whole. This is more or less the case throughout the west. The Yankees are every where considered, an intelligent, hardy, bold, active, and enterprising people; but they are supposed to be excessively fond of money, and frequently to obtain it by fraudulent means.

As to the love of money it is, throughout the whole country, poisoning the fountain of individual and national respectability; but as to the means of obtaining it, the Yankees are, probably, as honest as other people.

The characteristics of the people of any particular town, generally depend upon the disposition and {150} habits of its first settlers. Sometimes these first settlers are hospitable and fond of society; and sometimes they are exclusively devoted to business, and consider every stranger, who makes his appearance among them, as actuated by the same views.

With respect to the characteristics of the people of Pittsburgh, I judge only from information which I obtained there, and which appeared to be sanctioned by the general aspect of things in relation to them.

During my short visit at this place, I became particularly acquainted with the family of E. B. Esq.; and mention this circumstance for the purpose of affording myself the satisfaction of expressing some sentiments respecting them. So interesting were they, that I have, ever since I left them, regretted the loss of their society. Mr. B. is a German; has travelled a great deal, both in Europe and America; is acquainted with many languages; possesses very extensive information; and is a man of a sound and discriminating mind. Possessing too, much sensibility, and much delicacy of taste, his ideas are polished, and interestingly expressed. In Mrs. B. are combined good sense, simplicity, and benevolence. E**** is sensible, and innocently romantic; and in the little daughters are blended much vivacity and loveliness.

On the back part of Pittsburgh there is a rise of ground, called Grant’s Hill. Here one may have a perfect view of the town; and its appearance from this position is very much in its favour. This hill was occupied by the English General Grant during the old French war; and here he surrendered to the enemy.[141] About nine miles up the Monongahela is the place called Braddock’s Fields.[142] It is celebrated by the defeat there of the general of this name. These fields are also noted by their {151} being the rendezvous of the Whiskey Boys during the western insurrection in 1794. The defeat of Braddock took place in 1755. Many vestiges of this bloody engagement are still visible. It is well known that here our Washington acted as a volunteer aid to General Braddock; and by his intrepidity, and military skill, saved the English troops from total destruction. In the engagement Washington had two horses shot under him, and received four balls through his clothes.

The Monongahela river is a noble stream. It rises at the foot of the Laurel mountains, is about four hundred yards wide at its mouth, is navigable at a great distance, and its current is deep and gentle. Across this river, at Pittsburgh, an elegant bridge has recently been erected.

After remaining at Pittsburgh two days, I descended the Ohio for a few miles, and then landed on its western bank. The state of Ohio is situated altogether on the west of the river, and is bounded east by Pennsylvania, north by Lake Erie and Michigan Territory, and west by Indiana. The length of the river is about eleven hundred miles, and its average breadth about one half of a mile; in some places, however, its width is about twice this distance. The river is, generally, very deep, sufficiently so for the navigation of large ships. Its aspect is placid and clear; and when the water is high, is expansive and beautiful. It contains a great many islands, and is stored with a variety of fish and fowl. The river sometimes rises forty or fifty feet, and greatly endangers the settlements upon its banks. Sometimes too, the river is low and appears inconsiderable. Its sinuosities are numerous, and in the spring of the year, the abrasive effect of the floating ice and trees upon its banks is very great.

{152} The general aspect of the state of Ohio is rather level than otherwise. There are here no elevations which can be called mountains; but the country is gently diversified. The upper part of it is most hilly. West of Chilicothe it is nearly level. In various parts of the state, there are extensive prairies covered with high grass. Those near the river are small; but those in the interior are from thirty to fifty miles in extent. The soil of the state is, generally, very fertile; but as is the case every where else, some of its lands are sterile, and some unfit for cultivation. Its forests are spacious and elegant. The sycamore trees here are numerous, and some of them surprisingly large. In this and the other western states there is still considerable game; but the hand of civilization having here wantonly destroyed much, a scarcity has, for some time, been experienced.

Most of the western states in a great measure resemble, as to their aspect, the state of Ohio. This whole range of country is better calculated for the production of grain than for the growth of cattle. The pastures here, however, are rich; and the woods so abound with nuts, that immense herds of swine are raised in them without the least expence. The climate, judging from the general appearance of the inhabitants, I should suppose much less healthy than that of New-England; and in particular situations the fever and ague, and bilious fevers are very prevalent.

In travelling from Pittsburgh to New-Orleans, I sometimes moved upon the rivers, and sometimes marched in the woods. In the latter the traveller is, during the summer season, greatly annoyed by musquetoes. Having no covering, I was often employed during the whole night in defending myself against them. Here I may observe, that from the {153} time of my leaving Pittsburgh to my arrival at New-Orleans, I slept in the open air about thirty nights. The night dews did not affect my health.

The boats which float upon the river Ohio are various:—from the ship of several hundred tons burthen, to the mere skiff. Very few if any very large vessels, however, are now built at Pittsburgh, or indeed at any other place on the Ohio. They were formerly built on this river, particularly at Pittsburgh and Marietta; but the difficulties incident to getting them to the ocean, have rendered such undertakings unfrequent.

An almost innumerable number of steam boats, barks, keels, and arks, are yearly set afloat upon this river, and upon its tributary streams. The barks are generally about one hundred tons burthen, have two masts, and are rigged as schooners, and hermaphrodite brigs. The keels have, frequently, covered decks, and sometimes carry one mast. These and also the barks are sometimes rowed and sometimes moved up the river by poling, and by drawing them along shore with ropes. The flat boat or ark is of a clumsy construction; but very burthensome. Its foundation consists of sills like those of a house, and to these is trunneled a floor of plank. The sides are of boards loosely put together, and the top is covered in the same way. The bottom of the boat, and so much of the sides as come in contact with the water, are caulked. Some of this kind of boat will carry four or five hundred barrels of flour, besides considerable quantities of bacon, cheese, and other produce. On the deck of the ark are two large oars, moving on pivots, and at the stern there is a large stearing oar. The progress of the ark is principally in floating with the current; and the oars are seldom used excepting for the purpose of rowing ashore.

{154} The business carried on by boats, on the Ohio and Mississippi, is immense. The freight of goods up and down these rivers is high; and the freighting business here is exceedingly profitable. No property pays so great an interest as that of steam boats on these rivers. A trip of a few weeks yields one hundred per cent upon the capital employed.

The arks, and, generally speaking, the keels, when they reach New-Orleans, seldom return up the river again. The former are sold for lumber.

The current of the Ohio is about four miles an hour. That of the Mississippi is rather quicker.

On the river Ohio, nearly opposite to Louisville, there are rapids, the descent of which is about twenty-three feet in the distance of two miles. Owing to this circumstance many boats do not return from below this place. This difficulty, however, is about to be removed by a canal, which will give to the river, at this place, another direction.[143] This is the only considerable obstruction in the whole course of the Ohio.

In the rapids there are three passages, and they are all taken at different times, according to the state of the river. Pilots are, by law, appointed to navigate boats down the rapids. The quantity of water in the river often varies: it sometimes both rises and falls in the course of a few hours.

Before I proceed further down this river, I must notice those parts of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which lie on the Ohio. The western boundary of Pennsylvania lies about forty miles west of French Creek and Alleghany river; and west of Pittsburgh, on both sides of the Ohio, about the same distance. North-west, it is bounded by a part of Lake Erie, and south by a part of Virginia.

A part of the state of Virginia lies on the Ohio, {155} having a part of Pennsylvania on the east,[144] and Kentucky on the west. The principal waters, which enter the Ohio from Pennsylvania, are the Big Beaver on the north, and Racoon Creek on the south.