CHAPTER II.

_Concerning the Geographical Discoveries of Mr. Park._

Since the scope and design of Mr. Park’s routes have been already set forth in the beginning of the present work, it would be useless to say more on that head; and as the particular map of his progress will explain the relative circumstances of the Geography, nothing more will be necessary, than to call the attention of the reader to such particulars as may not readily occur to him on inspection of the Map; or which, from their nature, cannot well be inserted in it.

The discoveries of this gentleman (as has been said before), give a new face to the _physical_ geography of _Western_ Africa. They prove, by the courses of the great rivers, and from other notices, that a belt of mountains, which extends from west to east, occupies the parallels between 10 and 11 degrees of north latitude, and at least between the 2d and 10th degrees of west longitude (from Greenwich). This belt, moreover, other authorities extend some degrees still farther to the west and south, in different branches, and apparently of less height. One of these, follows the upper part of the Gambia river; another the Rio Grande, to a low point of its course; and a third appears to shut up the western coast of Guinea.[39] Accordingly, this chain approaches much nearer to the equatorial parts of Africa, than was before supposed; and thus we are enabled to understand fully what Abulfeda[40] meant, when he said, that after the continent of Africa has extended southward[41] from the Strait of Gibraltar, to the neighbourhood of the Equator, it turns to the east, _passing at the back of the mountains of Komri_, which give rise to the _Nile_.[42] The mountains in question, then, ought to be those intended by Abulfeda; who by the name _Komri_, evidently meant to express the _Mountains_ of the _Moon_; from which Ptolemy derives the remote source of the Nile.[43] As Abulfeda supposed the source of the Nile to be very far to the south or south-west (in which I agree generally with him), this chain may be supposed to pass onward from the abovementioned quarter, to the _east_, and _south_ of _east_, shutting up Abyssinia on the south. This, at least, seems the only way in which we can fairly understand Abulfeda; in confirmation of whose description, _a part_ of the ridge has been actually found by Mr. Park.[44] According to Leo (p. 249), the country of _Melli_ is bordered on the south by mountains; and these must be nearly in the same parallel with the mountains of _Kong_, seen by Mr. Park.

Mr. BEAUFOY was informed that the countries on the south and south-west of the Niger, lying opposite to, and to the westward of, Kassina, were also _mountainous_ and _woody_. In particular in the line between Kassina and Assentai, the country is said to be formed of a succession of hills, with woods of vast extent, and some mountains of a _stupendous height_.[45]

As the source of the Nile is confessedly very far to the south of the parallel of 10 degrees north, this chain of mountains, admitting it to continue its general easterly course, must bend to the southward, after it passes Kong and Melli, in order to pass _above_ the sources of the Nile; the principal of which I conceive to be situated in the country of DARFOOR.

The highest part of the portion of this chain, pointed out by Mr. Park’s discoveries, is situated between the 5th and 9th degrees of west longitude; for within this space are situated the sources of the Gambia, which run to the west-north-west; of the Senegal, running to the north-west; and of the Joliba (or Niger) to the east-north-east.[46] There is, however, a general slope of the country, extending to a great distance northward, formed by a gradation of summits of lesser mountains and hills, as is shewn by the early part of the courses of the rivers; in particular, that of the Niger, which appears to run near 100 miles on a northerly course, before it turns finally to the eastward.

A large portion of the tract bordering on the northern foot of the mountains, from whence the branches of the Senegal river issue, is covered with thick forests. Mr. Park’s track on his return lay through these woods; one part of which is named the _Jallonka Wilderness_, in which no habitations were seen during five days of forced marching. The hardships endured, even by the _free_ men of this caravan, almost exceed belief.[47]

The head of the principal branch of the Senegal river is about 80 geographical miles to the west of that of the Joliba; and the head of the Gambia, is again, about 100 west of the Senegal. The branches of the latter are very numerous, and intersect the country for about 200 miles from east to west, in the line of the caravan route: and it was this circumstance that detained Mr. Park, during a great part of the periodical rainy season, in Manding; a state of things, perhaps little expected, in a country regarded _here_, as the most thirsty on the globe.[48]

We may conclude that similar circumstances take place, with respect to the Joliba; only that as its course is such as to intercept all the streams that descend from the Kong mountains on the south, whilst Mr. Park’s travels along it, were confined to the northern bank, he had no opportunity of knowing it, any farther than by seeing various openings on that side; and by being told that he could not possibly _make his way_ there. No doubt, it receives some large streams also, when its course diverges far enough from the mountains as to allow the waters room to collect.

At the lowest point to which Mr. Park traced it, and which (although about 420 British miles in direct distance from its source) could only be reckoned the early part of its course, it was a very considerable body of water; the largest, he says, that he had seen (in Africa,) and it abounded with crocodiles. The rainy season was but just begun; and the river might have been forded at Sego, where its bed expands to a vast breadth. Still, however, we must not estimate the bulk of the Niger, that _Niger_ which was in the contemplation of Pliny and the Romans, by the measure of its bulk at Sego, and Silla.[49] If we suppose it to be the same river which passes by Kassina (and we know of no other), which place is 700 miles, or more, to the eastward of Silla, it would doubtless receive by the way great additional supplies of water, and be at least a much deeper river than where Mr. Park saw it. And here it may not be amiss to remark, for the use of those who are not conversant with the subject, that rivers make the greatest display of their waters, in proportion to their bulk, at a moderate distance from their sources; and are often wider _above_, than _below_.[50]

There can be no doubt but that the _Joliba_, is a noble stream; and the prince of the _western_ rivers of Africa, as the _Nile_ of the _eastern_: but the African rivers, however, rank lower than those of Asia and America.

Mr. Park judged that the Senegal river below the falls of _F’low_, or _Félou_ (as Labat writes it), was about the bulk of the _Tweed_ at _Melross_, in summer. This was indeed, in the dry season; but as the river does not begin to swell periodically till many months after that, Mr. Park, did not of course see it, at its lowest pitch. And yet this was the assemblage of all the principal branches of the river, save the _Falemé_, which was itself about three feet deep at the same season. But the Senegal is even fordable in some places _below_ the conflux of the Falemé, according to Labat:[51] for the Moors cross it in the dry season, and commit depredations on some of the lands to the south. However, almost the whole of the towns and villages are placed on the south side, with a view of being in security for the longest possible term.

The Senegal river then, is by no means a very capital stream, except in the rainy season; when, like all the other tropical rivers, its bed is filled, and very commonly will not contain the additional waters. Mr. Park observed by the mark of the highest point of swelling of the river _Kokoro_ (or eastern branch of the Senegal), that it had been twenty feet higher than when he crossed it, in the line of the southern route. The _main_ branch of this river, the _Ba-fing_, or Black River, was not fordable, and was crossed over a temporary bridge of a very singular construction. Alligators, or crocodiles are found in all these branches, at the height at which Mr. Park passed them.

The Falemé river has also a remote source, and drains a great extent of country.

Concerning the Gambia Mr. Park had fewer notices. It is remarkable that the position pointed out to him for the source of this river, agrees very nearly with that found in Dr. Wadstrom’s map; from notices collected from another quarter. This is very satisfactory. I learn also from Dr. Afzelius that the distance across, between the approximating parts of the courses of the Gambia and Rio Grande, is four journies.

Mr. Park crossed in his way, six different streams that fall into the Gambia from the north-east. Amongst these the principal one is the Nerico, which flows from the quarter of Bondou; and is reckoned the eastern boundary of a tract which the Africans of this region style the Country of the _West_, expressed by that of the _setting sun_. This tract is on a lower level than that to the east; is flat, and the soil composed of clay and sand. It appears that the whole tract through which Mr. Park _returned_ is covered with wood, cleared only in certain inhabited spots (_Numidian fashion_): of which, the great tract, named the Jallonka Wilderness, is composed of primeval forests.[52]

The Bambara and Kaarta countries are also exceedingly woody, but less so than the other tract; and the woods are of an inferior growth.

According to the ideas collected from Mr. Park’s observations, the general levels of the countries, near the sources of the great rivers are thus distributed:

Between the countries of Bondou and Neola on the west, Bambara and Kaarta on the east, the country forms a very elevated level, falling _rapidly_ to the eastward; but only _by degrees_, to the westward: and narrowing in breadth, from 330 miles in the south (in the line between Bambara and Neola) to the narrow space of 60 or 70 in the north, between Kaarta and Kajaaga; and probably diminishing to nothing, as it advances into the _Great Desert_; thus forming a great triangular space, whose vertex is on the north of the little kingdom of Kasson. This vast upland tract is divided into other degrees of level, of which the highest comprizes the eastern and largest part of the whole. The eastern boundary of this particular level, is, of course, that of the upper level, generally, in the part where it overlooks Kaarta and Bambara: and its termination, in the opposite quarter, is at a _great descent_, west of the principal branch of the Senegal river, in Woradoo; from which place, the edge of it may be conceived to run northward, to join _another descent_ of the same kind, which forms the falls of _Govinea_, over which the great body of the Senegal river is precipitated, from this _upper_ level, to the intermediate one.

The upper level contains the political divisions of Manding, Jallonkadu, Fooladu, Kasson, Gadou, and some other smaller states. And the second, or intermediate level, contains Bambouk, Konkadoo, Satadoo, Dentila, and some others; and is bounded on the south-west, by the great slope of country at Kirwanney, where the waters first begin to flow towards the west. On the north-west it is bounded by the great descent which forms the _second_ or _lower_ fall of the Senegal river, named F’low. This fall is about 30 miles below Govinea, 48 above Fort St. Joseph: and here the river being arrived at the lowest level of the country, continues navigable with little interruption to the sea.[53] The Falemé river of course, must run on a far lower level than the other heads of the Senegal river.

The Gambia has a small impediment to its navigation at Baraconda, in the country of Woolli; but although this is usually termed a _fall_, Mr. Park was informed that it did not impede the passage of canoes: so that it ought more properly to be termed a _rapide_, according to the _American_ phrase; that is to say, a _slope_, down which the water runs, with more than ordinary rapidity, but which does not, however, totally impede the passage of canoes, or small boats.

The Joliba (Niger) descends from the high level of Manding, into Bambara, on the eastward, with a rapid and furious course, at Bammakoo, about 150 miles below its source; after which it glides smoothly along, and affords an uninterrupted navigation to Houssa, and probably by Kassina to Wangarah; by the two first of which places, a very large and navigable stream does certainly pass, under the same name as is applied by the Arabs and Moors to the Joliba, that is, Neel Abeed, or River of Slaves: a name that marks the idea of the people of the country through which it flows, in the minds of those people.

Mr. Watt was informed, when at _Teembo_, the capital of the FOULAH kingdom, in 1794, that in the way from thence to Tombuctoo, (concerning which his inquiries were pointed) a part of the road, lay along the side of a _Great Water_, to which they came in about thirty days from Teembo. There can be no question but that the _Great Water_ was the _Joliba_ river; whose very name, as we have said, in the Manding language literally imports the same meaning: or more properly, the _Great River_. Some have concluded that the Foulahs intended by it a great _inland sea_; but this is highly improbable, although there are, no doubt, such in other quarters of Africa, which serve as receptacles for those rivers which do not reach the sea. But, in the present case, the distance itself points to the Joliba; for, a month’s journey from Teembo, would reach beyond Yamina, but fall short of Sego: and we are told from the same authority, that in order to go to Tombuctoo, they pass through the countries of Beliah, Bowriah, Manda, Sego, &c. Beliah, we know not the situation of, but may conceive it to lie on the north-east, or east-north-east of Teembo; because Mr. Park points out Bowriah, under the name of Boori, adjacent to Manding, which is obviously recognized in the Manda of Mr. Watt: and Sego, there can be no doubt about. What is farther said concerning the great breadth of the water, may either apply to the lake Dibbie, or may be African hyperbole. The sense appears clear enough.

I have extracted in a note, the intelligence concerning the Great Water: and also that, concerning the _Nyalas_. Mr. Park has also heard of the _Nyalas_, or _Gaungays_, but is clearly of opinion that the interpreter of Mr. Watt, either misunderstood the story, or was himself misinformed.[54]

[Footnote 39: Meaning Serra Leona, &c. &c.]

[Footnote 40: Prolegomena.]

[Footnote 41: Abulfeda in effect, _literally_ meant _southward_; for, like Ptolemy, and Strabo, he had no idea that the coast of Africa projected to the _westward_, beyond the Straits, but rather supposed it to trend to the _eastward_ of south.]

[Footnote 42: When the above is considered, we can understand that Abulfeda supposed the bays of Benin and St. Thomas to be 11 or 12 degrees more to the _east_, than they really are; and he might well suppose that “the sea came in at the back of the mountains that gave rise to the Nile.”

That the _Nile of Egypt_, and not the _Niger_, is meant, we learn in another place in the same author, where he speaks of the _Egyptian_ Nile, and traces it to Egypt. Prolegomena, article Rivers.]

[Footnote 43: _Komri_, or rather _Kummeree_, is the Arabic term for _lunar_; and is the adjective of _Kummer_, the moon. [Mr. Hastings.]]

[Footnote 44: The mountains of Kong were seen by Mr. Park; but no other part of the chain.]

[Footnote 45: African Association, 1790, and 1791, quarto ed. p. 117. 123; octavo, 176. 186. Also quarto, 174; octavo, 260.

As two editions of this work are in the hands of the public, I have referred to both throughout this work; distinguishing them respectively by Q and O.]

[Footnote 46: The Rio Grande has its source very far to the south of this chain; first running to the north, till it touches the foot of this very ridge of mountains, by which it is turned to the west. [Vide Mr. Watt’s Plan and Journal.]]

[Footnote 47: The caravan in question was composed chiefly of slaves going from Manding to the ports of the Gambia.]

[Footnote 48: There is in Africa, a rainy season; and also a periodical change of wind, as in the same latitudes in India: in effect, a MONSOON.]

[Footnote 49: It may be conceived that the Romans, who, according to Pliny, (lib. v. 4.), held the dominion of the countries as far as the Niger, penetrated to it by the route of Gadamis, Fezzan, Taboo, and Kassina, as the most direct, and convenient one, from the Mediterranean. There are very clear proofs of the conquest of the three former by Balbus. (Pliny, lib. v. 5.) It was known to Pliny that the Niger swelled periodically like the Nile, and at the same season; which we have also in proof from Major Houghton’s _Report_; and from Mr. Park’s _Observations_. Pliny says, moreover, that its productions were the same with those of the Nile. (Lib. v. c. 8.)]

[Footnote 50: In the Proceedings of the African Association, (Q p. 122; O. 183, _et seq._) the river of Kassina is described to run _to the west_, and _to pass on to_ Tombuctoo; where it is said to be named _Gnewa_; possibly intended for Joliba, for the _n_ and _l_ are more commonly interchanged than the _m_ and _n_.[a] It will very probably turn out that there is an error in the above statement, and that it runs from W to E in the country of Kassina as well as at Tombuctoo. It would seem also to be a larger river in the _east_, than in the _west_; a presumption in favour of an easterly course. But perhaps, the best argument is, that it certainly runs _from_ Tombuctoo to the _east_. It must then either be one and the same river, or there must be a receptacle common to both, lying between Tombuctoo and Kassina! and we have not heard of any such. Much more will be said concerning this subject, in the latter part of the Memoir.]

[Footnote a: Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.

It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.]

[Footnote 51: See Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172, where the impediments to the navigation are described. They do not appear to arise from differences in the general level, but to a ledge of rocks.]

[Footnote 52: Thomson seems to have understood this, when he says,

------beneath _primeval_ trees, that cast

Their ample shade o’er NIGER’s yellow stream.

_Summer_, v. 705. ]

[Footnote 53: Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172. See his description of the navigation.]

[Footnote 54: “I had a good deal of conversation with some men of a particular tribe of Mandingas called _Nyalas_. These are great travellers, and much respected by all the nations of Africa. It is from _this nation_ that all the _Gaungays_ or workers in leather, come; and they are likewise employed as the speakers on all embassies: as they are not only good orators, but are so far privileged, that no one, not even kings, can take offence at any thing they say. Any one who travels with them, is sure of being protected; and, to use their own terms, they can pass between contending armies, who will defer the battle till they have passed. I inquired about Tombuctoo,” &c.—One of them said, that “about a month’s journey beyond Teembo, we should come to a _large Water_, which our eyes would not be able to reach across; but which to the taste was sweet and good; that we should then coast along, touching at different towns for refreshment; but that there was one country inhabited by bad people, who would rob and murder us, if they could; where we should not stop, but keep far out, at a distance from the shore;” &c. They engaged to carry him thither for the price of _four slaves_. [Watt’s Journal, MS. p. 181.]]