CHAPTER V.

_Construction of the New Map of North Africa.[91] — New Arrangement of the Course of the Nile — Its distant Fountains yet unexplored by Europeans. — A central Position in Africa, determined. — Edrisi’s Line of Distance, consistent. — Errors of Leo._

In order that the reader may be enabled to judge of the improved state of the new map of NORTH AFRICA, I shall set before him a list of the authorities, together with an outline of the construction. To enter into a detail of both, would require a volume: I shall therefore barely _specify_ the authorities for the sea coasts, and for such parts of the interior as have been aforetimes described by geographers; and confine the _detail_ to modern discoveries, and to such parts, as those discoveries have helped to improve: and more especially to the points which determine the courses of the Niger and Nile.

The western and southern coasts, from the Strait of Gibraltar to the Equator, have been newly constructed for the present purpose. M. Fleurieu’s authorities have been followed in respect of Cape Verd, Cape Blanco, and the Canary Islands. The coasts of Morocco and Fez, rest on the authority of Don Tofino’s charts, in the Spanish atlas: and between Morocco and Cape Blanco, various authorities have been admitted, in the different parts: as it appeared to me, that M. Fleurieu had not rightly conceived the position of Cape Bajador.

The coasts on the south and east of Cape Verd, are drawn in conformity to the ideas of Captain Price. This gentleman, in the Royal Charlotte East India ship in 1793, had an opportunity of adjusting the longitudes of some important points; which longitudes Mr. Dalrymple applied to the correction of the existing charts of the coast, and with his accustomed liberality and zeal for the improvement of science, permitted me to avail myself of the use of these corrections, previous to his own publication of them, in a different form. It is to the same invaluable Journal of Capt. Price, that I am indebted for some of the most important notices respecting the variation of the compass, along the coast of Guinea, &c.; and without which notices, the approximation of the quantity of variation in the interior of Africa, could not have been accomplished. (See above, page xxvi.)

The result is, that the coast of Guinea has several degrees _more_ of _extent_ from east to west; and that the breadth of South Africa at the Equator, is _less_, than M. D’Anville had supposed.

No alteration has been made in the coasts within the Mediterranean, save in the form and position of the Gulf of Alexandretta, and the adjacent coasts.

The Red Sea, or Arabian Gulf, as well as the _whole_ course of the Nile, have been re-constructed for the present purpose. For the former, a great collection of new materials has been furnished by Mr. Dalrymple. This includes a new chart of the whole Gulf by Captain White, made in 1795: but I have not followed either _that_ or any other _single_ authority _throughout_: but have made such alterations as appeared to be warranted, on an examination and comparison of the different materials.

The upper part of the Gulf, between Suez and Yambo, is however, preserved entire, as Capt. White drew it.

The position of the Gulf, is thus adjusted:

Capt. White, by two observations of eclipses of Jupiter’s first satellite, found the longitude of Suez to be 30° 28′ 30″ east of Greenwich: and a mean of 76 lunar observations differed less than a minute from the former.

The difference of longitude between Suez and Mocha, near the entrance of the Gulf, is, by the mean of five different accounts, 11° 4′, which added to 32° 28′ gives 43° 32′ for the longitude of Mocha: and which is nearly a mean between the different results, by timekeepers. But until a greater number of celestial observations are taken at the mouth of the Gulf, its position cannot be deemed exact.

Cape Guardafui, is placed by _timekeeper_ observations, in 51° 12′ longitude: 11° 43′ of latitude.

The adjustment of the lower part of the course of the Nile, to the shores of the Red Sea, differs very much from M. D’Anville’s map. He supposed that the Nile, in its course from the lower Cataract (near Syene) to Cairo, gradually approached towards the Arabian Gulf: but late observations shew that it runs nearly parallel to it, throughout that extent, which is about 7 degrees of latitude. Hence the distance across, between the port of Kosire and Ghinna, on the Nile, is much less than M. D’Anville supposed; he having allowed about 110 G. miles, although 90 is about the truth.[92]

It may be proper to state, that the line between Kosire and Ghinna is by no means the _shortest_, that can be drawn between the Nile and the Red Sea, because it runs _obliquely_ between them. The distance appears to be no greater than 72 miles on an ENE course, from Ghinna to the nearest part of the coast.

Cairo, by the mean of several accounts, is about 59 G. miles to the west of Suez, equal to 1° 8′ of longitude.[93] So that Cairo should stand in 31° 20′. The _Con. de Temps_ has 31° 29′; but it is probable that Suez is the best determined of the two places.

Mr. Bruce had observations of longitude at Kosire and Syene (or Assuan). The first he gives at 34° 4′: and Capt. White at 34° 3′. But as Capt. White gives its latitude at 26° 18′, whilst Mr. Bruce found it only 26° 8′, we may suppose that the former did not approach the coast near enough to discriminate particulars. Mr. Bruce’s parallel intersects the coast in Capt. White’s chart, in lon. 34° 8′: and I have adopted that for the place of Kosire. Capt. White may perhaps have mistaken the _old_ for _new_ Kosire.

Syene is given at 33° 30′ by Mr. Bruce, making 2° 10′ east from Cairo; whereas M. D’Anville has no more than 41 minutes of easting. Hence arises a difference of 12 degrees in the bearing: M. D’Anville’s being about N 9 W; Bruce’s N 21 W: or nearly parallel to the shore of the Red Sea.

The longitude of Sennar is 33° 30′ 30″ according to Mr. Bruce. In this particular is found the widest difference between D’Anville and Bruce; the former placing it no less than 3° 50′ more to the west; that is, D’Anville has it, 1° 41′ _west_ of Cairo, Bruce 2° 9′ _east_ of it.

In effect, then, the general course of the Nile below Sennar lies to the _west_ of north, instead of the contrary, as described in the imperfect materials offered to M. D’Anville. For we cannot doubt the _general_ truth of Mr. Bruce’s geographical positions, although we may not be inclined to allow them every point of accuracy. In the observation of longitude at Kosire, we have seen that he comes very near to Capt. White: and his longitude of Cairo, is more exact, or more in harmony with Capt. White’s observations at Suez, than the longitude recorded in the _Con. de Temps_. We have moreover another observation of longitude taken by Mr. Bruce at the eastern source of the Nile, 36° 55′ 30″, (lat. 10° 59′), from whence one route leads eastward to the shore of the Red Sea at Masua, another westward to Sennar. Admitting his observations to be ever so coarsely made, these routes must have afforded so considerable a check, to the distance between Masua and Sennar, as to have precluded any very great error, in a difference of longitude of about six degrees only; so that there is little question but that M. D’Anville’s statement is wrong.

From Sennar, Mr. Bruce has a new and interesting route, northward to Syene. Dongola lay wide to the west of this route; and he has not informed us on what authority it is placed in his map. Still, however, the change in the position of the Nile, must carry Dongola to the eastward with it, of course; and in Bruce’s map it is found at 1° 18′ diff. long. to the east of D’Anville’s;[94] equal to 73 G. miles. The latitude of Dongola is also ½ a degree to the south of the parallel assigned by D’Anville, that is, 19½ instead of 20°. With respect to that of Sennar, D’Anville was right.

In describing the western head of the Nile (and which has no existence in Mr. Bruce’s map), it may be thought that I have advanced into the regions of conjecture; but I trust that I have not gone beyond the limits implied by the authorities. To enter into a detail of these, together with the deductions and combinations arising from them, would occupy too much room here; especially as they are designed for another place. It may be sufficient to state, that the branch in question, called the _White_ River, or _Abiad_,[95] is admitted by Mr. Bruce himself, to be a more _bulky_ stream than the Abyssinian branch. That M. Maillet was told, that it holds a course which is distant from 12 to 20 journies from the eastern branch. That Ledyard was told at Cairo, by certain persons from _Darfoor_, that the Nile has its fountains in their country situated 55 journies to the westward of Sennar:[96] and whose _frontier_ province, _Kordofan_, is placed by Bruce, adjoining to the west of the country of Sennar. And finally, that Ptolemy, Edrisi, and Abulfeda, all place the head of the Nile in a quarter far remote from Abyssinia. Ptolemy, in particular, has described the eastern source, in such a way, as that it cannot be taken for any other than the Abyssinian branch (_i.e._ Bruce’s Nile); and yet he at the same time describes a larger, and more distant, source, to proceed from the SW; answering to the White River. His _Coloe_ lake, is clearly the _Tzana_ of Bruce: and may possibly have been meant to express _Galla_, the name of the southern division of Abyssinia.[97]

Having completed this part of the subject, I proceed to the inland positions in the western and central parts of the continent.

M. D’Anville has been followed in the geography of Barbary and Morocco, with the exception of an adjustment of the interior of the latter, to the coasts; which are drawn from the charts in the atlas of Don Tofino, in which the capes of Cantin, Geer, &c. are placed more to the east, in respect of the strait, than in D’Anville.

The lower parts of the Senegal, Gambia, and Rio Grande, are from M. D’Anville’s, and Dr. Wadstrom’s maps.

Of Mr. Park’s route and discoveries, it is needless to say more, than that the particular map which contains them, has been copied into this; forming a most important member of it.

The routes and positions formerly introduced from materials collected by the African Association, in the northern part of the continent, are revised and reconstructed; perhaps with more effect, as our knowledge and experience of the subject increases.

Fezzan is placed, as before, due south from Mesurata: its capital Mourzouk, being 17½ journies of the caravan, distant. Edrisi affords a slight check to the _bearing_, as well as to the distance, by means of Wadan, which lies nearly midway, and is five journies west of Sort, a known position on the coast: and also eight journies of his scale from Zuela, a known position in Fezzan,[98]

A description of the caravan routes from Tripoly, to Mourzouk, Egypt, and the Niger, will be found in the Proceedings of the Association, published in 1790, and 1791 (chapters x. and xii.)

The point on which the _central_ and _eastern_ positions depend, is GHINNY; or GHANA, (as Edrisi and Abulfeda call it) a city, and capital of a kingdom situated nearly midway between the Indian Sea and the Atlantic, on the E and W; and between the Mediterranean and the Ethiopic Seas, on the N and S. Fortunately, this point, on which so many others depend, can be satisfactorily approximated: though by this, I do not mean to any degree of nicety, where an extent of 70 degrees, nearly, is in question.

According to Edrisi, Ghana lies 37 journies from _Germa_, through Agadez, or Agadost. Germa, an ancient and ruined city of Fezzan, lies to the ESE of Mourzouk, about four journies.[99] The position of Germa therefore will be about lat. 27° 25′: lon. 16° 20′ E. Agadez in 25 of Edrisi’s journies from Germa,[100] and is said to bear S by W, or SSW from the capital of Fezzan.[101] Again, Agadez is given at 48 caravan journies from Gadamis, which latter is 24 such journies in a southerly direction from Tunis.[102] The road to Agadez makes a considerable angle, by passing through Tegerhy, situated 80 miles only, to the SW or WSW of Mourzouk:[103] and hence the direct distance of 48 journies must undergo some diminution. The result places Agadez S by W ¼ W from Mourzouk, 479 G. miles distant; which only exceeds by six miles the distance arising on the 25 journies from Germa: and its position will be at a few minutes above the parallel of 20 degrees, and a little more than half a degree of longitude west of Tripoly. The position receives some further check, from the circumstance of Tegerhy being midway between Kabes and Agadez.[104]

Ghana is 12 days of Edrisi’s scale to the southward of Agadez, or about 229 G. miles.[105] It appears that Ghana lies somewhat to the east of the line which passes through Agadez from Germa; whence some little deduction should be made from the aggregate distance of 37 days, or 705 miles; and I have therefore taken 700 as the general line of distance from Germa to Ghana.

Mr. Matra was told, at Morocco, that Ghinny (Ghana of Edrisi) was 40 journies from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, along the bank of the Niger. These, taken at the caravan rate between Fezzan and Egypt; Morocco and Jarra; &c. that is at 16,3 per day, produce 652 G. miles. The intersection of this line with that from Germa, places Ghana in lat. 16° 10′, lon. 13° 2′ E of Greenwich; in which position it stands at 760 miles from the city of Benin, on the coast of Guinea.[106]

De Barros says, that when the Portugueze first explored the _Coast of Guinea_ (about 1469) the king of Benin held his kingdom of the king of _Ogane_, as his superior lord; and that ambassadors were sent accordingly, to obtain a confirmation of his authority. The distance of Ogane (doubtless meant for Ghana) from Benin, was stated to be 250 leagues of Portugal; which being of 18 to a degree, are equal to about 833 G. miles. And if from these we deduct ½ for the inflections of the road, there remain 740 for the direct line; which, as the reader will perceive, is very near the former result. Thus the determination of this important point, appears satisfactory.[107]

Before I speak further concerning Ghana and Melli, with a view to identify them with the same countries mentioned by Leo, it will be proper to _close_ the line of distance eastward to Nubia.

Between Ghana on the west, and Dongola on the east,[108] the interval on the map is about 1118 G. miles, in an E by N direction, nearly. Edrisi gives a chain of distance between them: and although we cannot ascertain the _exact_ bearing of the several parts, yet enough is known, to enable us to approximate the general _bent_ of it; which is to the _south_; and the degree of curvature seems to be such, as to increase the distance 50 or 60 miles; say 55, and then the line of Edrisi may be taken at 1173 G. miles.[109] Now as he reckons 66 journies, each will be no more than 17¾: and his usual standard is 19, or 1¼ more. This difference may easily arise on some of the longer portions of the line; which, although given in the aggregate, may be broken into several parts, and each of them inflected from the other in some degree. Such, for instance, may be the case of the line of 30 days between Dongola and Kauga; although the bearing of it, on the whole, is SW by W, or WSW. Therefore the interval of space between Ghana and Dongola seems to be satisfactorily filled up. Or, if we take the whole number of computed journies between Pisania on the Gambia river, and Dongola on the Nile, at 158; of which 92 are between Pisania and Ghana, 66 between the latter and Dongola; there will be on the former, according to our construction, a ratio of about 16,6 G. miles per day, on the direct line; and 16,9 on the latter.

To the _northward_ of this line, and in the quarter towards _Nubia_, are situated the countries or kingdoms of Bornou (or Kanem) Tagua, Kuku, Kuar, and Zagawa: and in the quarter towards _Ghana_, are Zanfara, and Zegzeg. Most of them are mentioned, as well by Leo, as by Edrisi.

There is a route to the capital of Bornou given in the Proceedings of the Association, 1790-91, by which it is placed at about SE ½ S from Mourzouk, distant 660 G. miles; whence it falls on the map exactly in the same parallel with Dongola, and at 524 miles to the west of it: so that the country of Bornou occupies the middle space between Nubia and Ghana; Fezzan and Sennar.[110] There is little doubt that Bornou is the Kanem of Edrisi, said to border on Nubia. Angimi (or Gimi) in particular, one of its cities, is said to be near Nubia, on the east.[111] There is a city of the name of Kanem, in the way from Fezzan to the capital of Bornou, as we learn not only from Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. but from a note in Hartmann:[112] but this cannot be the capital of Kanem, intended by Edrisi; because neither the bearings nor the distances to it, from Dongola and Nubia agree; and also, because the bearing and distance from Dongola _do_ agree exactly to the capital pointed out, by Mr. Beaufoy: and which Edrisi names Matthan, or Matsan. This capital he places at 31 days journey to the west of Nubia, whose position, however, is too uncertain to reckon upon: but Abulfeda says that Zagua, or Zagara, is 20 journies _west_ from Dongola;[113] and Matthan, according to Edrisi, is eight journies from Zagua, (p. 15). It has already been noticed that the capital of Bornou falls in the same parallel with Dongola; and here we learn that Zagua, is also in the same parallel with it; consequently, the whole 28 journies from Dongola, may be taken on the same _westerly_ bearing; and the result will be, a distance of 534 miles; differing only 10 from the interval on the map. Consequently, the Matthan of Edrisi may be taken for the capital of Bornou, pointed out by the above authority.

The countries of Zagua (or Zagara) and Tagua, fill up the space between the kingdom of Bornou and Nubia. The former appears to be a small province, perhaps a dependency of Bornou. The situation of its capital is inferred above, to be eight journies to the east of that of Bornou.

Tagua lies between Zagua and Dongola, and its capital at 13 journies from Matthan, (p. 15). Northward it extends to the tract of _Al Wahat_, the western province of Upper Egypt. Thus, its position cannot be mistaken.

The country of Kuku (this must not be mistaken for Kauga) lies to the NW of Tagua; NE of Bornou; and joins on the NE to Al Wahat. This is an extensive country, bordering on the Desert of Libya, and partakes of its nature. Its capital of the same name is situated at 20 journies to the _north_ of Kauga. It is also 14 to the _eastward_ of Tamalma, which is itself 12 to the _northward_ of Matthan. Hence Kuku may be approximated, in position. (Edrisi, page 13, _et seq._)

A river runs from N to S by Kuku, and is received into a lake at a great distance from Kuku; perhaps the lake of Kauga: and the river itself may form a part of that, said to run near Angimi,[114] of which more in the sequel.

Kuar, or Kawar, lies to the northward of Kuku and of Bornou; and extends eastward to Al Wahat. It is bounded on the north by that extensive Desert which separates Egypt from Fezzan; and which contains the _wandering_ tribe of _Lebeta_ or _Levata_; as also various _Oases_, or fertile islands; amongst the rest, those of Augela, Berdoa, Seewah, and that which contained the temple of _Jupiter Ammon_. This Desert I regard as the proper Desert of LIBYA: and it may be a question whether the tribe of _Lebeta_, although now found in the interior of the country, may not have originally inhabited the sea coast; and that the Greeks denominated Africa from _them_.[115] This was the part of Africa the nearest, and first colonized by the Greeks; and it is a known fact, that the _Adyrmachidæ_ and _Nasamones_, who, in the days of Herodotus, inhabited the _coasts_, were at a succeeding period, found in the _inland_ parts about _Ammon_ and _Augela_.

The capital of Kuar is by Edrisi placed adjacent to Fezzan; but there is either some mistake in this, or I do not comprehend the matter rightly. (Ed. p. 39, 40.) Tamalma, a city of Kuar, is only 12 days from Matthan (p. 14.), so that the Desert of Bilma, or Bulma, must lie between it and Fezzan. Mederam Isa, another of its cities, is said to be only two days from Zuela, or Zawila, a city of Fezzan: and Izer, a third city, is placed in the same neighbourhood, and near a large lake. Either then, these cities belong to Fezzan, and are by mistake classed as belonging to Kuar; or they _really_ belong, as well as Tamalma, (of which there is no doubt) to Kuar. I am inclined to the _latter_ opinion, for the following reasons. In the catalogue of places, in Fezzan (in Af. Assoc.) there is no mention either of Izer, Isa, Bulmala, or of a lake near the former. But there is a remarkable salt lake near Dumboo, on the northern frontier of Bornou, which from its relative position to Tamalma, may well be the one intended by Edrisi: especially as Bulmala, (p. 40.) which may be meant for Bulma, occurs in the same neighbourhood. The salt lakes of Dumboo are said to be situated in the Desert of Bilma;[116] which Desert appears to be a prolongation of the Libyan Desert to the SW.

Zanfara is said by Labat, to be 50 journies from Tombuctoo.[117] Leo places it between Wangara and Zegzeg; which latter, by the same authority, being to the SE of Cano (or Ganat) Zanfara must necessarily border on the NE of Ghana; having Bornou on the east, Agadez and Kassina (which we formerly erroneously spelt _Cashnah_) on the west. Here it may be proper to observe, that in the present political division of Africa, Kassina comprizes generally the provinces between Fezzan and the Niger; and that Zanfara is its eastern boundary. Of course Ghana, which in the 15th century was paramount in the centre of Africa, is now become a province of Kassina.

To the _south_ of the line between Ghana and Nubia, very few particulars are known to Europeans. The knowledge of Edrisi, was limited to this line itself: and the only country known to him on the south of the Niger, was _Melli_, which he calls _Lamlem_. Nor did the knowledge of Leo, extend beyond the countries contiguous to the south bank of the Niger; nor to any country west of Tombuctoo; although by mistake, he places Ghana and Melli, there. This may serve to shew, that the people on the north side of the Niger, have very little communication with those, who live beyond the great belt of mountains, which runs across Africa, at about the 10th degree.

Nor did the inquiries of Mr. Beaufoy produce any thing more than the _names_ of certain of the adjacent countries; the only one of which that can be _placed_, is _Begarmee_ (perhaps the Begama of Edrisi) said to be 20 journies to the SE of Bornou, and separated from it by several small deserts.[118] It seems to be the country intended by the Gorham of D’Anville.

Kororofa and Guber are said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to lie to the west of Begarmee; the latter bordering on Wangara. Neither of these, can well be in a lower parallel than 11° or 12 degrees. But _Darfoor_, a country of considerable extent and population, and apparently the farthest removed of any that has a communication with Egypt, is pointed out to our notice by Mr. Ledyard, as has been already shewn.[119]

In the present limited state of our knowledge respecting the interior of Africa, it would be mis-spending time to attempt to follow Leo, in his detail of provinces and nations, in the parts remote from the immediate scene of our discoveries; or of the routes communicated to the Association. But it is of the utmost importance to the argument respecting the _course_ of the _Niger_, that I should clear up some of his errors regarding the positions of _Ghana_ (his _Ginea_) and _Melli_.

Leo says, p. 248, 249, that the merchants of _his_ country (I conceive he means Barbary) call the country in question, Gheneoa; that its proper inhabitants call it Genni: but the Portugueze, and other Europeans, Ginea.[120] He says that it is situated to the _west_ of Tombuctoo, that is between Tombuctoo and Gualata:[121] that it has an extent of several hundred miles _along the Niger_, even to the place where it discharges itself into the sea. Again, says he, the kingdom of Melli _borders on_ Ginea, _southward_; and on the west, are vast forests, which extend to the sea. And finally, he places the kingdom of _Gago_ to the _east_ of Melli.

Now nothing is more certain, than that the space on the west of Tombuctoo and Gago, is occupied by nations, very different from those of Ginea (by which Ghana is to be understood) and Melli: as also that the space assigned by Leo, to Ginea, is a remarkably _dry, sandy_, country; being either adjacent to, or forming a part of the Sahara: whereas Ginea is described by him to be a tract, which, during the inundations of the Niger, in July, August, and September, is inclosed like an island.

It is however not improbable, that Leo, who it appears had visited Tombuctoo (but who certainly never saw the Niger, which is about 12 miles beyond it), might confound the city of Jenné, which is situated in a small island in the Niger, and to the west of Tombuctoo, with the kingdom of Ghana (his Ginea), on the east: but as to Melli, that is quite out of the question, in respect of any mistake of the like kind; and could only be placed on the west of Gago, in order that it might preserve its southerly position in respect of Ginea. Thus one mistake seems to have produced the other.

The position of Ghana (or Ginny according to Mr. Matra), at 40 journies to the eastward of Tombuctoo, has been already detailed, in page lix. And this is, no doubt, the Ginea intended by those, from whom Leo collected his information respecting the country itself, whose geography he has so much erred in.

The kingdom of Melli had been reported to Cadamosta, when he made inquiries concerning the interior of Africa, about the year 1455. He was told that Tombuctoo, (whose general position was not ill described to him, at about 60 journies inland from Arguin,[122]) was supplied with _mineral_ salt from Tegazza, 40 journies to the westward. That the same salt mine supplied Melli, 30 journies beyond Tombuctoo, the salt passing through the latter place.[123] (We must here suppose that the _capital_ of Melli, called by the same name as the country, is meant as the term of this journey). Hence we should naturally look for Melli on the _eastward_ of Tombuctoo, as will presently appear, and not on the SW, as is expressed in Astley.[124] No doubt, SE was meant: for Edrisi has a city of the name of _Malel_, at 10 journies to the south of Berissa,[125] and 12 from the city of Ghana: and this position actually falls at 30 journies to the ESE of Tombuctoo; agreeing to the distance reported by Cadamosta.

But Edrisi does not call the country _Melli_, but _Lamlem_. However, it can be no other than the Melli of Leo, and Cadamosta: for Edrisi says (p. 8 and 11), that it is situated to the south of Ghana and Berissa, and has on the east the country of Wangara (Vancara), which agrees to the tract in which Malel is situated. Hartmann supposes, (p. 39,) with great appearance of truth, that Lamlem is a transposition of Melli: and I have met with similar instances in the translation of Arabic words and numbers. Thus Leo’s ideas were evidently wrong, respecting the situations of Ghana and Melli; which lie to the _eastward_ of Tombuctoo, although he places them to the _west_. The place of Melli is occupied, in his description, by Guber (which Mr. Beaufoy learnt, was to the south of Wangara); whilst that of Ghana remains unoccupied; unless we suppose it to be included in the empire of Tombuctoo, which is implied (p. 254), when he speaks of Wangara (Guangara) as being troubled on the _west_ by the King of Tombuctoo, and on the _east_ by him of Bornou: and as he also speaks of Tombuctoo as the largest empire in Nigritia, (p. 4.)

In the position of Wangara,[126] he is right; for it lies between Zanfara, and Bornou: but he seems not to have known that it was intersected by the Niger, and formed of its alluvions, as Edrisi points out to us.[127] But Leo learnt one important particular as a merchant, that the _southern_ quarter of it, produced _gold_, in abundance. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this country, when the _course_ of the Niger comes under consideration, it will be unnecessary to say more of it, in this place.

Kassina is removed by Leo, from the banks of the Niger, its proper situation, far inland, to the east of Cano, or Ganat,[128] (p. 253.) This is another proof of his writing from hearsay. Kassina is not heard of, in Edrisi; it no doubt was included in Ghana, at that day.

Leo is silent respecting Tokrur or Tekrur. This appears to have been the metropolis of the great central empire of Africa, in the time of Edrisi and Abulfeda; and must have existed in later times; as the Tukorol, to whose prince the Portugueze sent an ambassador about the year 1493, may be taken for the same place. It may, however, have been swallowed up in the empire of Tombuctoo, which was founded after the time of Edrisi, and before the date of Leo’s writing. But as the city of Tombuctoo gave name to the empire, so might Tokrur; and this latter may have fallen so much to decay, as to be little known in the present times: and this may account for Mr. Park’s not being able to learn any tidings of it. And finally, as Leo had not heard of Houssa, we may conclude that it is a city of a yet later date; and which may possibly have superseded Tokrur. Such a fluctuation of names, serves as much to confound geographers in the political division of Africa, as the various opinions of those who have written on the physical geography, do, respecting the relative position of places, and the courses of its rivers.

* * * * *

_Remarks on the Positions of the Salt Mines in the Great Desert._

Edrisi understood that all the salt consumed in the kingdoms of Nigritia (particularly along the course of the Niger), was brought from _Ulil_, situated at 16 journies to the westward of Sala, and erroneously supposed by him to be an island, situated in the ocean, near the mouth of the Niger.[129] But by the _situation_, one would suppose that the salt mines of _Aroan_, 10 journies to the NNW of Tombuctoo, and in the road to Morocco, were meant; and from whence Tombuctoo is at present supplied. It is not easy to guess how an inland salt mine should have been mistaken for an island, in the ocean: but it is certain that both Edrisi and Abulfeda, supposed the Niger to discharge itself into the sea, near the meridian of Tombuctoo. Ibn Al Wardi[130] speaks of _Oulili_, as the principal city of _Soudan_ (or Nigritia), situated on the _sea coast_, and having extensive salt works, from which salt was carried to the other states of Nigritia.

Mr. Park mentions the city of _Walet_, capital of Beeroo, which may perhaps be the _Oulili_ intended by Ibn Al Wardi;[131] but it has no salt pits; for the inhabitants fetch salt from Shingarin, six journies to the northward of it:[132] and Walet is more than 24 journies from Sala, instead of 16, as stated by Edrisi.

Cadamosta and Leo, in the third and fourth centuries after Edrisi,[133] say, that the people of Tombuctoo had their salt from _Tegazza_, 40 journies to the westward of that city; and that the salt was carried so far to the east as Melli, which is opposite to Kassina. By Tegazza, _Tisheet_,[134] the salt mine of Jarra seems to have been meant; but is far short of 40 journies from Tombuctoo. Now, if in the 12th century, salt was procurable so near to Tombuctoo as Aroan, or Shingarin (the salt pits of Walet), why should they have fetched it from a place 30 or 40 days distant, in the 15th and 16th? This requires explanation: for Edrisi states very particularly that salt was carried from _Ulil_ in boats along the Niger, and distributed amongst the nations on its banks, from Sala to Kauga![135]

Mr. Beaufoy, quoted as above, says,[136] that there is a _salt lake_, or lakes, in Bornou; from whence Agadez, Kassina, and certain states on the south of the Niger, are supplied. This at least implies that there are no salt _mines_ in the Desert, in the quarter _east_ of Tombuctoo.

[Footnote 91:

Table of the principal latitudes and longitudes in the Map.

--------------+--------------------+----------+---------+-------- | In the map. | By M. | | | | Fleurieu | Con. de | +---------+----------+----------| Temps. | Bruce. |Latitude.|Longitude.|Longitude.| | | | | | | --------------+---------+----------+----------+---------+-------- *Cadiz |36° 21′ N| 6° 19′ W | 6° 19′ | | | | | | | C. Spartel |35 48 | 5 57 | 6 2 | 5 54 | | | | | | C. Cantin |32 33 | 9 15 | 9 11 | | | | | | | C. de Geer |30 28 | 9 54 | 10 31 | 9 53 | | | | | | C. Bajador |26 20 |14 17 | 14 49 | 14 28 | | | | | | *I. Ferro |27 51 |17 37 | 17 37 | | | | | | | C. Blanco |20 47 |16 58 | 16 58 | | | | | | | *C. Verd |14 48 |17 34 | 17 35 | | | | | | | †C. Palmas | 4 30 | 7 41 | | | | | | | | †I. St. Thomas| 0 18 N | 6 37 E | | | | | | | | Tunis |36 44 |10 20 | | | | | | | | Tripoly |32 54 |13 15 | | 13 20 | | | | | | Mourzouk |27 48 |15 3 | | | | | | | | *Suez |30 2 |32 28 | | | | | | | | Cairo |30 3 |31 20 | | 31 29 | | | | | | Koseir |26 8 |34 8 | | |*31 4 | | | | | Sennar |13 35 |33 30 30″| | | | | | | | Source of | | | | | the Nile in | | | | | Abyssinia |10 59 |36 55 | | |*36 55 | | | | | †C. Guardafui |11 43 |51 12 | | | | | | | | Syene |24 — |33 30 | | |*33 30 --------------+---------+----------+----------+---------+--------

* The longitudes thus marked, are from celestial observation, either at the place, or in the vicinage.

† From timekeepers: the two first by Capt. Price, the latter by Capt. Richardson.]

[Footnote 92: Mr. Bruce reckoned 44½ hours of the caravan (with camels) between Kosire and Kuft (that is Coptos), near Ghinna: Mr. Irwin 46 from Kosire to Banute, situated at the Nile, at five hours above Ghinna. The camel’s rate is 2½ British miles by the road: consequently less than two G. miles in direct distance.

M. Savary had much the same idea of the distance; for he reckons it 33 French leagues. (Vol. ii. letter 2.) But his map has 70 G. miles only: Pocock’s 90.

Mr. Irwin reckons the bearing WNW from Kosire to Ghinna; doubtless by compass. The variation might be 13 to 14 degrees; whence Ghinna would bear W 9° N from Kosire: Banute, which is stated to be about five hours to the south of Ghinna, will therefore by this account bear 1°½ N of W from Kosire. Mr. Irwin was certainly very near the mark; though a little too much northerly. It appears that Banute is in lat. 25° 47′ 30″ in D’Anville, and is 8 min. N of Negada; at which place, Mr. Bruce observed the latitude to be 25° 53′ 30″. Consequently D’Anville is 14 min. too far south in this part. Apply this to Banute, and we have 26° 1′ 30″. Kosire lies in 26° 8′, and Banute is then to the south of it, in reality, by several minutes. At Syene, Mr. Bruce’s latitude is 11 min. north of D’Anville’s. Not to go into extremes, I have taken Banute at 5 min. S of Kosire, Ghinna 3 min. N of it; or 26° 11′. D’Anville places Ghinna in 26° 1′. It was of importance that these parallels of the places should be adjusted.]

[Footnote 93: The principal authorities are the following:

M. Niebuhr reckoned between Suez and the Lake of the Pilgrims, situated at 6,9 G. miles E 38 N from Cairo, 28h 40m

M. Volney, 29 —

Dr. Pocock, 29 15 ------- mean 28 58

Add from the Lake to Cairo, as it is usually reckoned, 3 — ------- or say 32 hours 31 58 -------

But as there are (besides the just mentioned 3 hours, in a direction of about 40° from the general line of direction) 3¼ hours more between Suez and Ajerud, at much the same angle, a considerable reduction of the direct distance must take place, probably about 1¾ hour: whence there remains 30¼. And as Dr. Shaw states the general report of the distance to be 30 hours, it may be conceived that this is the actual distance, by the _shortest_ route, which leaves the Lake and Ajerud to the north. And for these, 59 G. miles direct may be allowed. M. D’Anville allowed 60.]

[Footnote 94: That is, M. D. places it 36 min. _west_ of Cairo: Mr. B. 42 min. _east_ of it.]

[Footnote 95: This must not be confounded with the _Neel Abeed_, the name applied by the Arabs, to the Niger.]

[Footnote 96: See Mr. Ledyard’s communications in African Association, for 1790,-91. He says 55 journies, _or_ four or five hundred miles. There must, of course, be an error, either in the number of the journies, or of the miles.]

[Footnote 97: Mr. Bruce has fallen into an error, which may mislead those who do not attend to his map. He says, Vol. iii. p. 720, that “the ground declines southward, from the parallel of five degrees north:” but in the map at the end of Vol. v. the waters, as we have just said, begin to flow southward, from the latitude of 8° north. I believe, with him, that farther to the west, the southern slope may not begin short of the 5th degree of latitude.]

[Footnote 98: The day’s journey of Edrisi is taken at 18 Arabic miles, or about 19 G. in direct distance. Strictly speaking, it should be 19,06, as 56⅔ Arabic miles are equal to a degree.]

[Footnote 99: Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.]

[Footnote 100: Edrisi, p. 39.]

[Footnote 101: Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.]

[Footnote 102: Af. Assoc. 1793, p. 29.]

[Footnote 103: Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 88; O. p. 133.]

[Footnote 104: Af. Assoc. 1793, page 29, _et seq._]

[Footnote 105: Edrisi, p. 39.]

[Footnote 106: By some oversight, Ghana is placed in the map, too far to the east, by 8 minutes of longitude.]

[Footnote 107: I cannot learn with any degree of certainty, from whence the name GUINEA, applied to the SW coast of Africa, is derived. Some have supposed it to be from the capital or country of the superior monarch, in the interior of the continent; but it is certain that the same name is applied by Sanuto (in 1588) to the coast between the river Gambia and Cape Mesurada. But Sanuto may have taken the idea from Leo, who was in an error with respect to the matter of Guinea, at large.]

[Footnote 108: Placed as above on the authority of Mr. Bruce.]

[Footnote 109: The chain of bearings and distances is thus ascertained: Edrisi allows 66 journies between Ghana and Dongola: of which 36 are between Ghana and Kauga; 30 between the latter and Dongola (Damokla of Edrisi). Of the thirty six, eighteen are clearly shewn to point _eastward_; partly by direct information, partly by the context. For Kauga is said to be 10 journies to the _east_ of Semegonda: (Ed. p. 13.) and between the latter and Sekmara, 8 journies, is about E by S and W by N; as we learn from the triangle formed by the points of Sekmara, Semegonda, and Reghebil; the latter place being six days _southward_ from the former, and nine from Semegonda. And lastly, the 18 journies between Ghana and Sekmara, are checked by the _bearing_ and _distance_ between Reghebil and _Ghanara_; and the _distance_ between Ghanara and Ghana—(See the map). For Reghebil is said (Edrisi, p. 12.) to lie 11 journies to the _east_ of Ghanara, whilst the latter is also 11 journies from Ghana. The context shews, that if _Sekmara_ is 18 journies from Ghana, and Reghebil 6 days _south_ from Sekmara, whilst Ghanara preserves the relative position above described, that Sekmara must lie to the _eastward_ of _Ghana_.

Kauga ought unquestionably to lie to the southward of Dongola, by 2½ or 3 degrees. For it is 20 journies to the southward of Kuku, which is itself about the parallel of Tamalma, which is 12 journies from Matthan, the capital of Bornou; _northward_. And this Matthan, as will be shewn presently, lies in the same parallel with _Dongola_. Thus, I may assume, without any great hazard, an easterly bearing between Ghana and Kauga; E 25 N between Kauga and Dongola.

For the authorities for the above particulars, see Edrisi, pages 10, 11, 12, 13. It would be almost endless to note each separate authority.]

[Footnote 110: The capital of Bornou falls in lat. 24° 32′, lon. 22° 57′. The empire is said to be very extensive; and its sovereign more powerful than the Emperor of Morocco: Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 152; O. p. 229.]

[Footnote 111: Edrisi, p. 14.]

[Footnote 112: Hartmann’s Edrisi, page 63, note (_v._)]

[Footnote 113: Article Soudan.]

[Footnote 114: Angimi is a city eight days journey from Matthan, six from Zagua; and towards Nubia and the Niger; consequently to the SE of Matthan; and _apparently_, not far to the northward of Kauga. Edrisi, p. 14.]

[Footnote 115: Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named _Libey_, whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of their habits and modes of life, to _gipsies_.]

[Footnote 116: Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named _Libey_, whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of their habits and modes of life, to _gipsies_.

f From the borders of these lakes, Kassina and other countries are supplied with salt, by the people of Agadez, who annually employ 1000 camels in this commerce. Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 157. 167; and O. p. 236. 251.]

[Footnote 117: Labat, Vol. iii. p. 363.]

[Footnote 118: African Association, 1790; Q. p. 155; O. p. 234.]

[Footnote 119: African Association. See Ledyard’s Communications, in Af. Assoc. 1790, 1791.]

[Footnote 120: Abulfeda, Edrisi, and Ibn Al Wardi call it Ghana, and Ganah.]

[Footnote 121: Gualata is described by Leo to be situated 500 miles from Tombuctoo towards Nun.]

[Footnote 122: He was told that Hoden or Whaden, was 70 leagues east of Arguin, and Tegazza six journies from Hoden. Tombuctoo was 40 days from thence. Astley, Vol. i. p. 20, and 577, 578.]

[Footnote 123: Astley, Vol. i. p. 578. Some Remarks on the Salt Mines are added, at the end of this Chapter.]

[Footnote 124: Ib. Vol. ii. p. 74.]

[Footnote 125: Berissa is 12 journies west of Ghana, Edrisi.]

[Footnote 126: Guangara, (Leo.)]

[Footnote 127: Pages 11, and 12.]

[Footnote 128: It lies to the SSW of Agadez. Af. Ass. Q. p. 221; O. p. 326. M. D’Anville mistook the _Cano_ of Leo (p. 253.) situated at 500 miles from the Niger, for _Ghana_. But the _Ganat_ of our map, in the road from Fezzan to Agadez, must be meant.]

[Footnote 129: Edrisi, p. 7.]

[Footnote 130: Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 29.]

[Footnote 131: Oulili, Oualet?]

[Footnote 132: Mr. Park’s MSS.]

[Footnote 133: Edrisi wrote in the 12th century; Cadamosta in the 15th, and Leo in the 16th.]

[Footnote 134: Mr. Park’s MSS.]

[Footnote 135: Edrisi, p. 7.]

[Footnote 136: African Association, 1790; Q. p. 157, 167; and O. p. 236, 251.]