CHAPTER VII.

_Observations on the_ physical _and_ political _Geography of North Africa — Naturally divisible into three Parts — Productive in Gold — Boundary of the Moors and Negroes — the Foulahs, the_ Leucæthiopes _of the Ancients._

To our view, North Africa appears to be composed of three distinct parts or members. The FIRST and smallest is a fertile region along the Mediterranean, lying opposite to Spain, France, and Italy (commonly distinguished by the name of Barbary); and which, could we suppose the western bason of the Mediterranean to have once been _dry land_, (bating a lake or recipient for the surrounding rivers), might be regarded as a part of Europe; as possessing much more of the European, than the African character.

The SECOND part is what may be deemed the _body_ of North Africa, comprized between the Red Sea, and Cape Verd, on the east and west; and having the Great Desert (or _Sahara_) and its members, on the north; the Ethiopic ocean, and South Africa, on the opposite side. The prominent feature of this immense region, is a vast _belt of elevated land_, of great breadth, often swelling into lofty mountains, and running generally from west to east, about the tenth degree of latitude. Its western extremity seems to be C. Verd; the mountains of Abyssinia, the eastern. To the north, its ramifications are neither numerous, nor extensive, if we except the elevated tract which turns the Nile to the northward, beyond Abyssinia. Towards the south, no particulars are known, save that a multitude of rivers, some of them very large, descend from that side, and join the Atlantic and Ethiopic seas, from the Rio Grande on the west, to Cape Lopez on the east; proving incontestably that by far the greatest proportion of rain water falls on that side, during the periodical season of the SW winds; which corresponds in all its circumstances with the same monsoon in India.[173]

To the north of this belt, with the exception of the Egyptian Nile, the waters conform generally to the direction of the high land; passing at no great distance (comparatively) from its base, to the right and left: as if the surface of the Sahara had a general dip to the southward.[174] These rivers, moreover, receive all their supplies from the south; no streams of any bulk being collected in the Desert.

In order to produce this effect, there must necessarily be a vast hollow in the interior of Africa, between the high land of Nubia on the east, and Manding on the west; and of which the mountains and Desert form the other two sides. Nor is this state of things unexampled in the other continents. In Asia, the _hollow_, to whose waters the Caspian and Aral serve as recipients, is no less extensive than the one just mentioned; reckoning from the sources of the Wolga to those of the Oxus; (which latter has ever communicated with the Caspian, either throughout the year, or during a part of it:) the difference is, that in Asia, a greater portion of the hollow is filled up with water, than in Africa.

The THIRD part is of course, the Great Desert (or Sahara), and its members; consisting of the lesser deserts of Bornou, Bilma, Barca, Sort, &c. This may be considered as an OCEAN OF SAND,[175] presenting a surface equal in extent to about _one half of Europe_, and having its gulfs, and bays; as also its islands, fertile in groves and pastures, and in many instances containing a great population, subject to order and regular government. The great body, or _western_ division of this OCEAN, comprized between Fezzan and the Atlantic, is no less than 50 caravan journies across, from north to south; or from 750 to 800 G. miles; and double that extent, in length: without doubt the largest desert in the world. This division contains but a scanty portion of islands (or oases) and those also of small extent: but the eastern division has many; and some of them very large. Fezzan, Gadamis, Taboo, Ghanat, Agadez, Augela, Berdoa, are amongst the principal ones: besides which, there are a vast number of small ones. In effect, this is the part of Africa alluded to by Strabo,[176] when he says from _Cneius Piso_, that Africa may be compared to a leopard’s skin. I conceive the reason why the oases are more common here, than in the west, is, that the _stratum_ of sand is _shallower_, from _its_ surface, to that of the earth which it covers. In other words, that the water contained in that earth, is nearer to the surface; as in most of the oases it springs up spontaneously.[177] Can any part of the cause be assigned to the prevalent easterly winds, which, by driving the finer particles of sand to leeward, may have heaped it up to a higher level in the Sahara, than elsewhere?[178]

The springs, no doubt, have _produced_ the oases themselves, by enabling useful vegetables to flourish, and consequently population to be established. That the Desert has a _dip_ towards the east, as well as the south, seems to be proved by the course of the Niger, also. Moreover, the highest points of North Africa, that is to say, the mountains of Mandinga and Atlas, are situated very far to the west.

The Desert, for the most part, abounds with salt. But we hear of salt _mines_ only, in the part contiguous to Nigritia, from whence salt is drawn for the use of those countries, as well as of the Moorish states adjoining; there being no salt in the Negro countries south of the Niger.[179] There are salt _lakes_ also, in the eastern part of the Desert.

The great ridge of mountains, and its branches, are very productive in _gold_; but more particularly in the quarters opposite to Manding and Bambouk on the west, and Wangara, on the east. It may perhaps admit of a doubt, whether the gold is brought down at the present time, by the numerous fountains that form the heads of the Niger and Senegal rivers; or whether it has been deposited in the lower parts of their beds, at an earlier period of the world; and that the search, instead of being facilitated by the periodical floods, is, on the contrary, only to be pursued with effect, when the waters are low.

Tombuctoo is reckoned the mart of the Mandinga gold, from whence it is distributed over the northern quarters of Africa, by the merchants of Tunis, Tripoly, Fezzan, and Morocco; all of whom resort to Tombuctoo. Most of it, no doubt, afterwards finds its way into Europe. It may be remarked, also, that the _Gold Coast_ of Guinea (so called, doubtless, from its being the place of traffic for gold dust), is situated nearly opposite to Manding: but whether the gold brought thither, has been washed out of the mountains, by the _northern_ or _southern_ streams, I know not: it may be by both; for a part of the gold of Wangara is brought for sale to the southern coast.[180] Degombah, another country, said to be very productive in gold,[181] must, by its situation, lie directly opposite to the Gold Coast: for it lies immediately to the east of Kong (the Gonjah of Mr. Beaufoy, and the Conche of D’Anville).[182] The people of Fezzan trade to Kong.

The triangular hilly tract above commemorated, (p. xix.) which projects northward from the highest part of the belt, and contains Manding, Bambouk, &c. is also abundant in gold; particularly in the quarter towards Bambouk, where it is found in mines; and that chiefly in the middle level.[183] (See also, p. xix.)

Wangara appears to have been, in its time, nearly as rich as Manding in this metal. The Arabs name it _Belad al Tebr_, or the _country of gold_.[184] Edrisi, Ibn al Wardi, and Leo, bear testimony to its riches. They say that the gold is found in the sands, after the periodical inundation of the Niger (which is general over the country) is abated.[185] Leo, alone,[186] says, that the gold is found in the _southern_ quarter of the kingdom; which appears very probable, as the mountains lie on that side: so that it may be concluded, that the gold sand has not been brought there by the Niger, but by smaller rivers that descend immediately from those mountains. That a part of Wangara is bounded by mountains, we learn from Edrisi: for the lake on which Reghebil stands, has mountains hanging over its southern shore.[187]

It is supposed that most of the countries bordering on these mountains, share in the riches contained within them, by means of the rivulets.[188] But considering how amazingly productive in gold, the streams of this region are, it is wonderful that Pliny should not mention the Niger amongst the rivers that roll down golden sands: for although he speaks of the Tagus and others, in different quarters, no African river is mentioned.[189] And yet Herodotus knew that the Carthaginians bartered their goods for gold, with the Africans on the sea coast, beyond the Pillars of Hercules: which was contrived without the parties seeing each other.[190]

The common boundary of the MOORS and NEGROES, in Africa, forms a striking feature, as well in the moral, as the political and physical, geography of this continent. The Moors, descendants of Arabs, intermixed with the various colonists of Africa, from the earliest to the latest times, overspread the habitable parts of the Desert, and the oases within it: and have pushed their conquests and establishments southward; pressing on the Negro aborigines, who have in several instances retired to the southward of the great rivers; but in others, preserve their footing on the side towards the Desert; according to the strength, or openness of the situation. It is probable, however, that the Negroes, who are an agricultural people, never possessed any _considerable_ portion of the Desert, which is so much better suited to the pastoral life of the Moors. It appears as if matters had not undergone much change in this respect, since the days of Herodotus; who fixes the boundary of the LIBYANS and ETHIOPIANS, in other words, of the MOORS and NEGROES, near the borders of the Niger; and he apparently pointed to the quarter in which Kassina or Ghana are now situated.[191]

The Negroes in the western quarter of the continent, are of two distinct races, of which the least numerous are named FOULAHS, or FOOLAHS. These, although they partake much of the Negro form and complexion, have neither their _jetty_ colour, _thick lips_, or _crisped_ hair. They have also a language distinct from the Mandinga, which is the prevailing one, in this quarter.

The original country of the Foulahs is said to be a tract of no great extent along the eastern branch of the Senegal river; situated between Manding and Kasson; Bambouk and Kaarta: and which bears the name of FOOLA-DOO, or the country of the Foulahs. But whether this be really the case, or whether they might not have come from the country within Serra Leona (called also the _Foulah_ country), may be a question; of which, more in the sequel. The Foulahs occupy, at least as sovereigns, several provinces or kingdoms, interspersed throughout the tract, comprehended between the mountainous border of the country of Serra Leona, on the west, and that of Tombuctoo, on the east; as also, a large tract on the lower part of the Senegal river: and these provinces are insulated from each other in a very remarkable manner. Their religion is Mahomedanism, but with a great mixture of Paganism; and with less intolerance than is practiced by the Moors.

The principal of the Foulah States, is that within Serra Leona; and of which Teemboo is the capital. The next, in order, appears to be that bordering on the south of the Senegal river, and on the Jaloffs: and which is properly named Siratik. Others of less note, are Bondou, with Foota-Torra, adjacent to it, lying between the rivers Gambia and Falemé; Foola-doo, and Brooko, along the upper part of the Senegal river; Wassela, beyond the upper part of the Niger; and Massina, lower down on the same river, and joining to Tombuctoo on the west.

The Moors have in very few instances, established themselves on the south of the great rivers. They have advanced _farthest_ to the _south_ in the western quarter of Africa; so that the common boundary of the two races, passes, in respect of the parallels on the globe, with a considerable degree of obliquity, to the north, in its way from the river Senegal towards Nubia, and the Nile.[192] Mr. Park arranges the Moorish States which form the _frontier_ towards Nigritia, together with the Negro states opposed to them, on the south, in the line of his progress, in the following order:

The small Moorish state of Gedumah, situated on the north bank of the Senegal river, and the last that touches on it,[193] is opposed to the small Negro kingdom of Kajaaga, on the south. This latter occupies the extremity of the navigable course of the Senegal, terminated in this place, by the cataract of F’low.

From this point, the Negro and Foulah states occupy _both_ banks of the Senegal river, to its source: and beyond that, _both_ banks of the Niger (or Joliba) likewise, to the lake Dibbie, situated beyond the term of Mr. Park’s expedition. This space is divided, unequally, between Kasson, a hilly strong country, but of small extent; and which has the Moors of Jaffnoo on the north: Kaarta, a considerable state, which has Ludamar for its opposite (a country held by Ali, a Moorish prince, who is loaded with infamy, on the score of maltreatment of the only two Europeans, who appear to have entered his country, in latter times): Bambara, of still more consideration, which has on the north, the Moorish kingdom of Beeroo, and Massina, a Foulah state.

Here Mr. Park’s personal knowledge ends; but he learnt that Tombuctoo and Houssa, which succeed in order, to Massina, and occupy both sides of the Niger, are Moorish states, though with the greatest proportion of Negro subjects: so that the river may be considered as the boundary of the two races in this quarter.[194]

Of the countries between Houssa and Kassina we are ignorant. The Desert seems to approach very near the river (Niger) in that quarter, whence a Moorish population may be inferred. South of the river, we hear of Kaffaba, Gago, and other Negro countries; but without any distinct notices of position; and beyond these, Melli.

Kassina and Bornou, two great empires on the north of the river, appear to divide the largest portion of the remaining space, to the borders of Nubia; and extend a great way to the north; this region being composed of Desert and habitable country, intermixed; but perhaps, containing the largest proportion of the latter. In both these empires, the sovereigns are Mahomedans, but the bulk of their subjects are said to adhere to their ancient worship; that is to say, the lower orders are, almost universally, Negroes.[195]

From what has appeared, perhaps the boundary of Nigritia, as it respects the Negro population, may be expressed generally, and with a few exceptions, as follows: beginning from the west, the extent upwards of the navigable course of the Senegal river, generally—thence, a line drawn to Silla; from Silla to Tombuctoo, Houssa, and Berissa, along the river Niger; and thence through Asouda, Kanem, and Kuku, to Dongola, on the Nile.

Leo,[196] enumerates 12 states, or kingdoms of Nigritia: but amongst these, he includes Gualata, a tract only 300 miles S of the river Nun: as also, Cano (Ganat), adjacent to Fezzan; and Nubia. Kassina, Bornou, and Tombuctoo, are included, of course.[197]

The kingdom of the Foulahs before mentioned, situated between the upper part of the Gambia river, and the coast of Serra Leona, and along the Rio Grande, has also a Mahomedan sovereign, but the bulk of the people appear to be of the ancient religion. It has been already said, that although they are a black people, they are less black than the Negroes, generally, and have neither crisped hair, nor thick lips: as also that they have a language distinct from the Mandinga. From these circumstances, added to that of situation, they appear clearly to be the _Leucæthiopes_ of Ptolemy and Pliny. The former places them in the situation occupied by the Foulahs; that is, in the parallel of 9 degrees north; having to the north, the mountains of _Ryssadius_, which separate the courses of the _Stachir_ and _Nia_ rivers (Gambia and Rio Grande), and which therefore answer to the continuation of the great belt of high land, in our geography; in which there is, moreover, another point of agreement, the _Caphas_ of Ptolemy, being the _Caffaba_ of the map.[198]

Ptolemy, by the name, evidently meant to describe a people _less_ black than the generality of the _Ethiopians_; and hence it may be gathered, that this nation had been traded with, and that some notices respecting it, had been communicated to him. It may also be remarked, that the navigation of HANNO, terminated on this coast; probably at Sherbro’ river, or sound. And as this was also the term of the knowledge of Ptolemy, it may be justly suspected that this part of the coast was described from Carthaginian materials.[199]

Those who have perused the Journal of Messrs. Watt and Winterbottom, through the Foulah country, in 1794, and recollect how flattering a picture they give of the urbanity and hospitality of the Foulahs, will be gratified on finding that this nation was known and distinguished from the rest of the Ethiopians, at a remote period of antiquity.[200]

The contrast between the Moorish and Negro characters, is as great, as that between the nature of their respective countries; or between their form and complexion. The Moors appear to possess the vices of the Arabs, without their virtues; and to avail themselves of an intolerant religion, to oppress strangers: whilst the Negroes, and especially the Mandingas, unable to comprehend a doctrine, that substitutes opinion or belief, for the social duties, are content to remain in their humble state of ignorance. The hospitality shewn by these good people to Mr. Park, a destitute and forlorn stranger, raises them very high in the scale of humanity: and I know of no fitter title to confer on them, than that of the HINDOOS of AFRICA: at the same time, by no means intending to degrade the MAHOMEDANS of INDIA, by a comparison with the AFRICAN MOORS.

THE END.

[Footnote 173: A ridge stretches to the south, through the middle of South Africa, and forms an impenetrable barrier between the two coasts. M. CORREA DE SERRA informs me, that the Portugueze in Congo and Angola, have never been able to penetrate to the coast of the Indian ocean.

Mr. Bruce learnt (Vol. iii. p. 668.) that a high chain of mountains from 6° runs southward through the middle of Africa. He supposes the gold of Sofala to be drawn from these mountains. (p. 669.)]

[Footnote 174: Circumstances have shewn, that it declines to the eastward also.]

[Footnote 175: “A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky!” _Thomson._]

[Footnote 176: Page 130.]

[Footnote 177: Water is found at the depth of a few feet, in Fezzan (Afr. Assoc. Q. p. 96: O. p. 146). The same is said by Pliny, concerning this quarter of Africa; lib. v. c. 5. But farther to the NW, on the edge of the Desert, and in the country of Wadreag in particular (Shaw, p. 135.), wells are dug to an amazing depth, and water mixed with fine sand, springs up suddenly, and sometimes fatally to the workmen. The Doctor tells us, that the people call this abyss of sand and water, “the sea below ground.” Exactly the same state of things exists in the country round London, where the sand has in several cases nearly filled up the wells. (See Phil. Trans. for 1797.) The famous well lately dug by EARL SPENCER (at Wimbledon), of more than 560 feet in depth, has several hundred feet of sand in it.]

[Footnote 178: Ships that have sailed at a great distance from the African coast, opposite to C. Blanco and C. Bojador, have had their rigging filled with fine sand, when the wind blew strong off shore. The accumulation of the _Bissago_ shoals may have been partly owing to this cause also. They occupy the position where a great eddy of the general southerly current takes place, between C. Verd and Sherbro’.]

[Footnote 179: This quality of the African Desert was familiarly known to Herodotus (Melpom. c. 181, _et seq._) He knew also that there was salt in abundance in the _northern_ parts. But as it would appear that the inhabitants in that quarter can furnish themselves with salt of a better quality from the sea, the mines are not wrought.]

[Footnote 180: Some writers have said, that there are gold _mines_ in the neighbourhood of Mina, on the Gold Coast; others, that the gold is rolled down by the rivers to that neighbourhood. Both may be true.

It is difficult to conceive any other adequate cause, than the exchange of the gold of the inland countries, for the introduction of so vast a quantity of _kowry_ shells, which are carried from Europe to the Coast of Guinea, and pass for small money in the countries along the Niger, from Bambara to Kassina, both inclusive.

I am informed from authority, that about 100 tons of kowries are annually shipped from England alone, to Guinea. These are originally imported from the Maldive islands into Bengal; and from Bengal into England. In Bengal, 2400, more or less, are equal to a shilling: and yet notwithstanding the incredible smallness of the denomination, some article in the market may be purchased for a single kowry. But in the inland parts of Africa, they are about ten times as dear; varying from 220 to 280. Mr. Beaufoy was told that in Kassina, they were at the rate of about 250: and Mr. Park reports, that they are about the same price at Sego: but _cheaper_ at Tombuctoo, which is about the _centre_ of the kowry country; _dearer_ towards Manding, which is the western extremity of it. Hence they are probably carried in the first instance to Tombuctoo, the gold market: and thence distributed to the east and west. Their circulation seems to be confined between Bornou and Manding. In Bournou they have a coinage of base metal.]

[Footnote 181: African Assoc. Q. p. 176: O. p. 264.]

[Footnote 182: Mr. Park says that Kong signifies _mountain_, in the Mandinga language; which language is in use from the frontier of Bambara, to the western sea.]

[Footnote 183: Labat, Vol. iv. ch. 2.]

[Footnote 184: Bakui, and Herbelot; article Vankara.]

[Footnote 185: See Edrisi in particular, pages 11 and 12.]

[Footnote 186: Page 254.]

[Footnote 187: Edrisi, page 12.]

[Footnote 188: Mr. Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 647, says the same of the mountains of Dyre and Tegla, which are a continuation of the great belt, towards Abyssinia.]

[Footnote 189: Pliny, lib. xxxiii. c. 4.]

[Footnote 190: Melpomene, c. 196.

Dr. Shaw (p. 302) speaks of the same mode of traffic, at present, between the Moors and Negroes: whence the place of traffic ought to be very far removed from the Mediterranean. There is a similar story related by Cadamosta of the exchange of salt for gold, in Melli; and by Dr. Wadstrom on the windward coast of Guinea.]

[Footnote 191: See Euterpe, c. 32.; and Melpomene, c. 197.]

[Footnote 192: The common boundary of the Moors and Negroes, in the map of Mr. Park’s route, is described by a blue line.]

[Footnote 193: The Moors appear to be masters of the northern bank of the Senegal through the greatest part of its navigable course: the Foulahs of the southern bank.]

[Footnote 194: The Emperor of Morocco is said to have held, at one period, the sovereignty of some of the countries on the northern banks of the Senegal and Niger rivers. Labat, Vol. iii. p. 339, speaks of incursions made by his troops.]

[Footnote 195: Af. Assoc. Q. p. 126: O. p. 191.]

[Footnote 196: Page 4.]

[Footnote 197: The Arabs and Moors, call NIGRITIA by the general name of SOUDAN. By _Belad Soudan_, or the country of Soudan, Abulfeda includes all the known part of Africa, south of the Great Desert, and Egypt. With him, Soudan is the southern quarter of the globe. D’Herbelot also allows it a wide range. _Affnoo_ is another term for Nigritia, in use amongst the natives themselves. (See also Proceedings Af. Assoc. Q. p. 164: O. p. 246.)]

[Footnote 198: The _Soluentii_ of Ptolemy may also be meant for the _Solimani_ of Mr. Park.]

[Footnote 199: And it may also have been the scene of the traffic mentioned in page lxxxvii; as Dr. Wadstrom speaks of such a custom in this quarter, at the present day.]

[Footnote 200: Pliny (lib. v. c. 8.) also speaks of the _Leucæthiopes_, but seems to place them on _this side_ of Nigritia. May it not be, that certain tribes of Foulahs were then established, as at present, along the Senegal river!]

POSTSCRIPT.

The incident of the Negro Song, related in the 15th Chapter of this work (p. 198), having been communicated to a Lady, who is not more distinguished for her rank, than for her beauty and accomplishments; she was pleased to think so highly of this simple and unpremeditated effusion, as to make a version of it with her own pen; and cause it to be set to music by an eminent Composer. With this elegant production, in both parts of which the plaintive simplicity of the original is preserved and improved, the Author thinks himself highly honoured in being permitted to adorn his book; and he laments only that he had not an opportunity of inserting it in its proper place in the body of the work.

A NEGRO SONG, FROM MR. PARK’S TRAVELS. * * * * *

I.

The loud wind roar’d, the rain fell fast;

The White Man yielded to the blast:

He sat him down, beneath our tree;

For weary, sad, and faint was he;

And ah, no wife, or mother’s care,

For him, the milk or corn prepare:

CHORUS.

_The White Man, shall our pity share;_

_Alas, no wife or mother’s care,_

_For him, the milk or corn prepare._

II.

The storm is o’er; the tempest past;

And Mercy’s voice has hush’d the blast.

The wind is heard in whispers low;

The White Man, far away must go;—

But ever in his heart will bear

Remembrance of the Negro’s care.

CHORUS.

_Go, White Man, go;—but with thee bear_

_The Negro’s wish, the Negro’s prayer;_

_Remembrance of the Negro’s care._

[Music sheet: _SONG_ from Mr. Park’s Travels

_The Words by the Dutchess of Devonshire._

_The Music by G. G. Ferrari._]

Transcriber's note:

Changes in the ERRATA have been made.

pg 22 Changed: "dwelling houses the Mandigoes" to: "Mandingoes"

pg 34 Changed: "inhabitants are Mandigoes" to: "Mandingoes"

pg 39 Changed: "under all the cirumstances" to: "circumstances"

pg 98 Changed: "_Some Particu-culars concerning_" to: "_Particulars_"

pg 138 Changed: "compel me, though a Christain" to: "Christian"

pg 162 Changed: "(said he); “the boy" to: "(said he); the boy"

pg 172 Changed: "one way or the the other" to: "one way or the other"

pg 282 Changed: "aquired the proper shade" to: "acquired"

pg xvii (footnote a below ftn. 50) Changed: "arrangement of th matter" to: "the"

pg xli Changed: "50 journies of he caravan" to: "the"

pg lviii (footnote 103) Changed: "Af. Assos." to: "Assoc."

pg lxv Changed: "means Barbary, call" to: "means Barbary) call"

pg lxxvi Changed: "may be proper to oberve" to: "observe"

pg lxxx Changed: "his decription of the rivers" to: "description"

Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.