CHAPTER XII.

_Niagara River and Falls—Carving—Entrance to Canada—Cavern beneath the Falls—Rapids—City Building—Stage Passenger—General Brock’s Monument—Letters—Maps—Queenstown and Niagara—Agricultural Notices—King—Old Settlers—Disappointment with Canada._

Aware of being near the Niagara river, which connects Lake Erie with Ontario, and which forms the St Lawrence, my first proceeding in the morning was to obtain a sight of this stream, from the window. The sun shone brightly, and displayed to advantage the white painted houses and endless forest, but there was no feature indicating a river. On walking a short distance from the hotel I unexpectedly found myself on the banks of the Niagara, moving in the midst of a flat country, betwixt low woodless banks void of beauty. On the opposite side lay Upper Canada; the village of Queenstown was seen in the distance, over which Sir Isaac Brock’s monument was towering. I looked on the scene with feelings of a British subject, and, with a thousand associations rushing on my mind, anticipated new enjoyment from mingling with the inhabitants.

After breakfast we were seated in a stage on the way to the Falls of Niagara, winding up a steep hill, corresponding with elevated ground on the Canada side, called the heights of Queenstown. From the summit, the passengers expatiated on the extent and beauty of the prospect, but being unfortunately seated between two stout individuals, I was deprived of seeing objects at a distance. I could, however, perceive that the banks of the river, along which we travelled, underwent a change on reaching the height, being rocky, precipitous, and deep. It is conjectured, and appearances support the theory, that the cataract of Niagara once poured its torrents over this spot, and that it has receded to its present position, seven miles distant, by the gradual wearing of the rock. The soil from Lewistown, along the river, is inferior, bearing bad crops.

On reaching the village of Manchester, situated on the rapids of the river, we instantly sallied forth to view the Falls of Niagara, which I had long considered the most wonderful sight in the world. A remarkable and fragile-looking bridge leads across the rapids to Goat island, and we soon stood on what is termed the American falls, formed by that part of the river passing on the south side of the island.

I know not whether it was owing to unreasonable expectations, or the magnitude and sublimity of the object, that I felt disappointed on first viewing the falls. Instead of being riveted to the spot in breathless agitation, and soul-thrilling delight, a feeling of uneasiness stole over me, from which I sought relief by culling a variety of plants from the edge of the cataract. But every sight afforded additional pleasure, and hours flitted away in gazing on their endless beauties.

On returning to the hotel, a large and good establishment, numerous visitors of the falls had assembled for dinner, to which they did justice, thinking, perhaps, the grosser senses entitled in turn to gratification. Guests are not expected to carve, waiters either doing so, or carrying dishes to those wishing to help themselves. The numerous company induced me to cut up a joint, and having served a dozen of individuals, I was about to help myself, when the fragments were expeditiously carried off and placed before a gentleman at the extremity of the table. Amused at the way I had been treated, I resolved to involve a companion in the disappointment, by asking him to help me to mutton. He complied, and no other person was so honoured during his tour. Foreigners may well be excused carving, their utmost exertions being required to finish meals with the natives.

Immediately after dinner we set out for the Pavilion House, a celebrated hotel in Canada, a porter conveying our luggage in a barrow to the ferry, which we reached by descending a wooden spiral staircase. The river is 1200 yards broad. The agitated state of the waters conveys an idea of danger, and we were landed safely on the opposite beach in 14 minutes, having been drenched in crossing by the spray of the falls. Mr D—— remained with the luggage, while we went in search of assistance to transport it. Two men of colour were met carrying trunks to the ferry, who brought ours on their return.

On the Canada side of the river, a wide road winds up the steep bank, at the top of which were carriages of different descriptions, and people walking to and fro. The ascent being long and difficult, afforded time for observation. Banks, rocks, trees, carriages, and people, appeared like those I had been accustomed to of late, and no important object indicated a change of territory. But characters of countries and individuals may sometimes be learned from trifles. On walking up the banks of the river, an elevated board attracted notice, containing the following inscription:—“All persons found on these grounds will be prosecuted.” This was so unlike any thing I had seen in the States, that it impressed me with an idea I had left the land of liberality, if not of liberty, and recalled associations connected with notice-boards of Scotland regarding steel-traps, spring-guns, and prosecutions according to law, which deface the country, and exhibit the characters of those who erect them.

The banks of the Niagara from the ferry to the Pavilion is the loveliest and most interesting portion of the globe. At the point where the footpath diverges is the Table rock, affording the best view of the Horse-shoe fall, one of the most splendid earthly objects the eye of man can behold. We reached the hotel in time for tea. Our bedroom windows overlooked the cataract, whose murmurings soon lulled us to repose.

Next morning, when the sun was peeping above the horizon, and ere the vapour had melted before his rays, we were at the Table rock, gazing with increased pleasure at the Horse-shoe fall, preparatory to entering the cavern below it. In a small shanty we changed our clothes for sailcloth dresses kept for visitors, and, laughing at our grotesque appearance, descended a spiral stair to the level of the river. The guide led the way, and after a considerable battering of spray and wind in passing the verge of the cataract, the interior of the cave was comparatively serene. We penetrated 153 feet to the Termination rock, where we conversed without difficulty, in a peculiar greenish light, the sun being distinctly visible through the falling sheet of water. The pathway is strewed with loose stones—the debris of the falling rock—and unpleasantly narrow. The guide seemed impatient to regain the outside, and I experienced no difficulty in breathing, or uneasiness of any kind. Next day I repeated my visit, when the spray and wind were much more powerful. On this occasion, Mr C—— and I were preceded by three Yankee youths, two of whom lost courage on encountering the spray, and nearly overturned us in their hurried retreat. There is little danger in a pilgrimage to the Termination rock, and nothing to affect the nerves of an ordinary person, or to reward him, beyond the glory of having made it, and enjoying the finest of shower-baths, formed by the spray of the falling water.

The currents of air acting on the soft under stratum in the cave, is the primary cause of the lime rock giving way, over which the water pours, but how they should vary so much is not easily accounted for. At both visits the external atmosphere was still, but I did not remark the direction of the wind, or revolve the matter in my mind. Air mingled with water will at all times pass over the cataract, and the current in the cave may either proceed from the agitated water below being incapable of containing the same quantity of air as that above, or from wind passing through the falling sheet, as sunbeams do through glass.

At my first visit to the cave I lifted an eel about the centre, and restored it to the water. A toad was near the falling sheet, in full vigour of life, and on my second visit there was one near the same spot. In the channel of the river, and amidst the thickest vapour, swallows were whirling at all times, and occasionally seemed to pass within a few inches of the surface of the most impetuous part of the Horse-shoe fall. The suction and danger of the falls seem to have been exaggerated, and the noise and terror said to be experienced on viewing them, either do not exist, or my feelings were insensible to them.

At twilight of the evening of 1st July, I walked up the Niagara to deliver an introductory letter, when I was so much gratified with a sight of the rapids, that my friends accompanied me next night at the same hour. No person who has not seen the rapids can form a just estimate of the quantity and force of water descending the cataract. When standing at the verge of the river, a hundred yards below the grist mills, and looking up the stream, the most obtuse feelings cannot fail of being touched with the spectacle. Such is the breadth and descent of the river, that the water forms the visible horizon; and the mighty stream, in waving folds, seems issuing from the firmament. The sun had sunk to rest; the evening was soothingly still; the thin clouds of vapour rising from the falls curled gracefully over Goat island, and were lost in the distance. The agitated rapids formed a contrast with the serene sky emblematical of troubled earth and calm heaven.

Conscious of my inability to do justice, in the way of description, to the Falls of Niagara, when so many higher-gifted individuals have failed in the attempt, the works of travellers must be consulted by those interested in the matter. They will find descriptions, like the actual falls, abounding in so many beauties, that readers, like visitors, may select what is suited to their taste. Visitors, however, ought to perambulate the banks of the river and islands in the neighbourhood of the falls, and begin with the American or Canada side, according to their temperament. As few seem capable of appreciating the magnificence of the sight at first, it will generally be found the best policy to begin with the American side, which affords opportunity of seeing both falls; while the Horse-shoe and rapids from the Canadian side, the sublimest objects of the scene, are reserved for the last.

Two rival companies have commenced building villas on the Canada side of the Niagara, and in all probability will lead to the embellishment and improvement of the banks in the vicinity of the falls. The period has not yet, however, arrived for the population resorting to villas in Canada for a few months in summer; and city building at the falls seems as visionary an undertaking as could at present be entered into.

On the morning after our arrival at the Pavilion, we entered a stage for the village of Niagara, formerly Newark, distant twenty miles, and found a passenger railing at delay. His dialect marked him from the north of Scotland; he could not be made to comprehend the distinction between the rivers Niagara and St Lawrence, and amused us by some remarks on different subjects. The beef of Canada, he said, was so tough that teeth could not chew it; and on being reminded his might not now have so keen an edge as when in Scotland, replied, there could be no great change on them, as he came to this country last fall; but when in the old country he only got beef once a-week on Sunday, here he had it three times a-day. The road is full of interest, from recent historical events, and was fringed with various kinds of fruit-trees, bending under an abundant crop. On reaching the heights of Queenstown, five or six individuals left the stage and went to the top of General Brock’s monument, erected by the Government of Upper Canada to commemorate the services of that officer, who fell in the moment of victory during the last war with the States. The heights afford a sweet view of the junction of the Niagara with lake Ontario, and the surrounding country; the monument commanding a wider range of landscape, without diversifying the scene, and certainly does not reward the labour of reaching the summit. The party joined the stage at Queenstown, and soon reached Niagara, having deposited a passenger at the steam-boat on the river before entering the village.

My friend D—— found letters at the post-office of Niagara, but the like fortune did not attend me, although our letters are said to have been put into the same post-office in Scotland, and similarly directed. I did not receive a letter from Britain while across the Atlantic, but my communications regularly reached their destination in Scotland. The post-office of the United States seems well conducted, but I experienced proofs to the contrary with that of Canada.

Few countries are better provided with maps than the United States, pocket ones being everywhere to be had, and the walls of hotels covered with them and information regarding stages and routes. We could not obtain a map of Canada, the booksellers of Niagara informing us a pocket one of the country never had been published, and almost nothing could be learned about mails and stages, which nearly placed us in the situation of pursuing our route blindfold. Dining at the village, we returned to the Pavilion in an extra, which corresponds to the post-chaise of Britain; and I took an opportunity of delivering some letters by the way. Queenstown and Niagara are mean dirty-looking villages, apparently without trade, and very unlike the clean bustling places on the opposite side of the river. The bar-rooms of the hotels we entered were filled with swearing tipsy people, and the establishments badly conducted, from the stage-coach to the presenting of butter; which, instead of being, as in the States, hardened by means of ice, was an unclean liquid.

Between the falls and village of Niagara the soil is partly clay and partly sand, both seemingly of indifferent quality, and bearing bad crops. The farm-houses are untidy, and the fences look old and dilapidated. No trace of recent improvement could be discovered, and the state of agriculture seemed stationary.

I had a letter to Mr ——, whom I was requested to visit, as he had been nearly half a century in Canada, and possessed some fine farms in the neighbourhood of the falls. On enquiring at the landlord of the Pavilion, if he knew any thing of the gentleman to whom the letter was addressed, I learned he was a _little king_ in this part of the world, with whom the landlord himself had served when a boy. Impressed with the rank of the person, I asked if I might venture to breakfast with him next morning. Yes, was the reply, you will be sure to get every thing of the best. The import of my question being misunderstood, I was told it was unnecessary to announce my visit beforehand. I requested an extra to be in readiness to carry us to ——, and retired to rest, meditating on the treat expected from walking over some of the finest farms in Canada, in company with King ——. Next morning rain fell in torrents, which detained us till after breakfast, when we travelled by the way of St David’s, and at length the extra drew up at the door of a small wooden cottage. No time was lost in delivering and reading the letters; and I regretted to observe a restraint in the family, arising, perhaps, from the extra, which probably was the only one that ever approached their dwelling. When engaged in putting questions regarding farming, in presence of father and son, the old gentleman said he would send for his man Peter, as best qualified to answer me. Peter was from Stirlingshire, Scotland—had been several years in the country, and possessed more information and address than any of the _royal family_. He told me farm-labourers receive $10 a-month when engaged by the year, with board. In winter, labour can scarcely be obtained at $6 a-month, and boys sometimes engage for their food. Canadians drink less spirits than they did at one time, and they are not now served to labourers in the field. King —— and Prince —— boasted of making their farm implements, which a mechanic could have done at half the labour, and of treading out the wheat crop with horses. The day continuing wet, prevented a walk over the _dominions_, and we returned to the Pavilion in time for dinner, to the expressed regret of Mr ——, who was as kind as possible; but a prolonged stay might not have been agreeable to either party. The interior of the house presented few marks of comfort, according to my notions at the time, although after experience in Canada enables me to say it was respectable in this view.

The old settlers are evidently the least enterprising class. Having come to the country uncultivated themselves, and ever since living without intercourse with the world, they seem content with the necessaries of life, which are easily obtained. Their descendants imbibe the same sentiments and habits; and before the first settled portions of Upper Canada can be farther improved, the present farmers must either sell to others of more enterprise, or another generation arise with new opinions.

I could no longer conceal the disappointment experienced with Canada and its inhabitants. The Pavilion House, so much praised by travellers, lately purchased by a company, and puffed off by advertisements, was greatly inferior to the hotels in the States. The manners and customs of the people were essentially Yankee, with less intelligence, civility, and sobriety. The houses and fences were inferior to those of any district yet seen, and instead of the youthfulness and never-ceasing activity of the States, there seemed the listless repose of doating age. The brute creation partook of the change—horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs, being inferior to those on the opposite side of the frontier. If such was the state of things in Niagara district—the paradise of Upper Canada—little could be expected from other parts of the province. My friends, at first, seemed to regard my opinions as more the result of prejudice than observation, but in a few days after, they drew a contrast less favourable to Canada than I had done. No unprejudiced traveller can spend a few hours on either side of the frontier line without remarking the difference of the two countries, and as the people, soil, and climate, were originally alike, the circumstances in which the inhabitants have been placed must alone account for the dissimilarity. If governments affect the state of countries, politicians would do well to visit both sides of the river Niagara.