CHAPTER II.

_Voyage from Liverpool to New York—Sea-sickness—Crew—Passengers—Details—Approach to New York—Washington Hotel._

At noon, on the 24th April, the Napoleon got under weigh, and was towed down the Mersey by a steamer, in consequence of an adverse wind. In little more than an hour from the time of sailing, I became sea-sick, which afflicted me severely for nearly thirty days, and frustrated the little plans of recreation and amusement which I had formed on shore. Although appearing only once or twice at table, the attention of friends, and the situation of my berth, enabled me to know much that was passing on board. I shall not, however, chronicle many events which took place during the voyage, which some of my shipmates will readily pardon.

The establishment of the Napoleon consisted of about thirty, embracing men of every country and of every clime. There were eighty passengers in the steerage, and thirty in the cabin, eight of whom were ladies. England and Scotland furnished each five gentlemen, cabin passengers; Ireland, two; and the United States of America, three, one of whom had been naturalized from Ireland. All the individuals from England and Ireland, one from Scotland, and two from America, smoked. In some cases, the use of tobacco was immoderate, one gentleman smoking a hundred and fifty segars in fourteen days; the saliva in many parts of the vessel was copious and disgusting. Some of the passengers seemed to spend much of their time in sensual gratification, there being little reading or card-playing indulged in. Breakfast was served at eight o’clock, luncheon at twelve, dinner at four, and tea at eight. The first dinner course occupied about an hour, the second fifteen minutes, and dessert about the same length of time. The cabin, in some respects, resembled a British inn, the passengers dressing as they chose, and at all times calling for what they wished, champagne, seemingly, being the only wine restricted, and which was presented at dinner twice a-week. To those not of fastidious taste, the Napoleon offered a fit opportunity for indulgence, the table being copiously stored with substantial food and a variety of liquids. The noise of calling the steward, and drawing of corks, succeeded each other at short intervals throughout the day, and generally formed my morning and evening salutations. The quantity of good things which some individuals stowed under their belts, appeared excessive. Man is apt to despise what he cannot enjoy, and sensual indulgence never appeared to me so unworthy of regard. Champagne, sparkling in the wine-cup, did not afford a thousandth part of the pleasure I had often derived from the dewdrops glancing in the morning sunbeam, and when presented to my fevered lips by a most friendly hand, I envied my pretty Ayrshire cow, Salina, the privilege of quaffing the cool and limpid fount at Mungoswells.

On 20th May, 40° 30ʹ north latitude, 53° west longitude, and 950 miles from New York, Mrs ——, a cabin passenger, gave birth to a female child. In compliment to the ship, this little nymph of the sea was to be christened Josephine! a name memorable for conjugal affection, and the poor return such a virtue will sometimes receive.

Our commander, Captain Smith, was an American by birth, and part owner of the vessel. He was indefatigable as a seaman, spending successive nights on deck, and seldom concluding a meal without satisfying himself, by ocular demonstration, that all was right aloft. To the passengers he was attentive; and, considering the situation in which they occasionally placed him, also forbearing. Individually, I found him courteous and gentlemanly in a high degree.

The wind continued adverse for the first twenty-five days; and sometimes blew tempestuously. The weather moderated for the last eight days of the voyage, and the bar at New York was made on the morning of the 29th May, which a dense fog prevented us crossing without a pilot. The vessel stood off and on during the day, and towards noon, six gentlemen, accompanied by the letter-bag, set out in a fishing-boat for New York, where they landed in safety a few hours afterwards. The fog increasing as the day advanced, deprived the passengers of the hope of reaching shore until next day, and all their stock of patience was required to withstand the disappointment.

Next morning I was early on deck. The fog of the preceding day had disappeared in course of the night, and the sun shone brilliant in a sky of cloudless blue. A bracing and favourable breeze filled our canvass, and hastened on their voyage a thousand vessels around us, which had been detained by the previous unfavourable weather. Land was seen on both sides of the channel, but too distant to render objects on its surface distinctly visible. At a quarter before eight, a pilot stept on board, under whose guidance the Napoleon proceeded merrily on her way.

Under the combination of advantages we now enjoyed, our detention on the previous day seemed a fortunate occurrence, without which we should have been landed at New York, insensible of the beauties of its approach.

Having been nurtured in the country, and by profession and taste brought into fellowship with the vegetable kingdom, I anticipated much pleasure on my first introduction to America. This feeling led me on deck early in the morning, and, with telescope in hand, I watched with anxiety our approach to the shore. My situation was like that of a famishing person with food in view, intense desire without gratification, and brought to feel enjoyment by gradual participation. At first the country appeared a mass of uniform vegetation; by and by, the green broke into different shades, forest could be distinguished from cultivated field, kinds of trees and crops became visible, but I strained my eyeballs almost to blindness without being able to mark the minute characteristics of individuals. The general effect imparted delight, which was heightened, perhaps, by my having left home at the termination of a tedious winter, and crossed a wide waste of waters; the green mantle of nature never appeared to me so rich and fascinating.

The general aspect of the scenery, on approaching New York, is beautiful; consisting of hill, wood, water, island, town, villa, and hamlet, in every combination which can impart pleasure. But blue mountains, so prominent in the landscapes of Scotland, and so dear to her children, are altogether wanting, and the eye searches in vain for an object of sublimity.

An inspecting surgeon came on board at the quarantine station, who examined the passengers and crew. On coming to anchor in the river, near the wharf, a customhouse officer sealed up the luggage in the berths, and the cabin passengers were landed by means of a steam-boat.

On reaching shore, we learned there was a scarcity of lodgings at this season of the year, when the inhabitants of the Southern States travel northwards in quest of health. Our charioteer, after two unsuccessful attempts to find accommodation, landed us at the Washington Hotel, kept by Mr Ward, who kindly supplied us with every thing we could desire.