CHAPTER XV.

_Journey from York to Coburg—Mail Waggon—Mr Somerville—Agricultural Notices—Clay Kneading—Female Helps seating themselves at Table—Port Hope—Coburg—Agricultural Notices—Fast Eating—Excursion to Peterborough—School-fellow—Peterborough—Rice Lake—Notices of Nature and Agriculture—Settlers—High Price of Land—Injudicious Settlement—Bay of Quinte—Indian Settlement—Canada Thistle—Kingston—Storekeepers and Store-pay—Grasshoppers—Lake of the Thousand Isles—River St Lawrence._

My friend D—— and I left York at 5 P.M., on 16th July, by the Kingston mail, an open waggon, drawn by two horses, and reached Windsor, a distance of twenty-nine miles, at two in the morning. The roads were worse than any yet travelled on, and a driver stopped two hours at a hotel notwithstanding our anxiety to get him away.

The soil, for ten miles down the margin of the lake, is poor sand, covered with pines, until passing some ridges, where there are good farms; here night shut out the face of nature.

From Windsor, in the township of Whitby, we set out on foot, after breakfast, to visit Mr W——, to whom we had a letter, and found him suffering under ague at Mr Somerville’s. I was anxious to see Mr Somerville, from having heard his letter, which appeared sometime before in the _Edinburgh Quarterly Journal of Agriculture_, censured by my lately-imported countrymen, and his establishment and prospects ridiculed. He received us kindly, and after walking over the farm, we returned in time for an early dinner.

On entering the house it was necessary to go one by one, as the door opened so as to close up the passage leading to the kitchen, through which we entered to the sitting-room, where we dined. Both apartments were small, clean, and crowded with old-country furniture. The house was a log one, but a better was soon to be built. The dinner consisted of fried pork, the standard dish of the country, eggs, new potatoes, and pancakes. Homely as the fare may be considered, it has seldom been my fate to rise from table more gratified with a repast, each dish being excellent in its kind, and the entertainment seasoned with the good sense, contentment, and manly feeling, of our host. Miss Somerville, like all my countrywomen met in Canada, was active and in good spirits; but her piano had remained untouched in the corner of the room since her arrival in the country, the churn being now her favourite instrument.

Mr Somerville told me his letter was not written with a view to publication, and it appeared in the Quarterly Journal without his knowledge. Under these circumstances it would perhaps be unreasonable to hold him responsible for its contents. Not having read the letter since the time of publication, I cannot say if it is a just representation of his situation, but I can testify to the good quality of his soil, which he says no visitor ever examined minutely but myself. His pasture-grass was truly excellent; wheat and oats of medium quality; potatoes and Indian corn well cultivated, and promising crops. He had let twenty acres of forest land to clear and fence, at $12 per acre, which he says is the common cash price of the country. Labourers have difficulty in getting employment during winter; and on the morning of our arrival Mr Somerville engaged a first-rate hand for his aguish friend at $80 per annum, and ordinary people may be had for $72; wages paid in cash. Boys fit for farm work, and women servants, get $4 a-month. Farms in the township, two-thirds cleared, with suitable buildings, may be had for $12 cash, and $16 credit. Bricks are $5 per thousand.

The soil of Whitby is rich, and not much inferior to that around Newmarket, being free loam, and occasionally approaching to sand. The vegetable mould in Mr Somerville’s forest was five inches deep.

Immediately after dinner we joined a waggon, by appointment, on the Coburg road, and by which we travelled to the Darlington hotel in the village of Bowmanville, passing over a poor sandy soil, of which the township of Darlington seems to consist.

On our journey we saw two oxen employed in walking round a pit, kneading clay for brick-making, which appeared cruelty, and wasteful of animal labour, the poor animals walking up to the bellies in mud, with erect tails and extended tongues. The common mode of preparing clay being with a tree drawn by a horse or ox round a pivot, the lopped branches kneading the clay. An elm-tree, twenty feet in height, was growing from the heart of one of rotten button-wood, ten feet from the ground. A plantation of hops, in Whitby, was luxuriant and healthy.

On stepping out of the waggon at Bowmanville, we walked over a farm which I had been requested to value for a friend, and we sprung a woodcock in a wheat-field, a bird that is said to breed regularly in the district. Woodpeckers, robins, and blackbirds, of the country, were devouring cherries so greedily, that a gun was fired at them to little purpose every five minutes. Two wrens were seen in Whitby similar to those of Britain.

In the United States and Canada tea and coffee are not prepared or poured out by travellers, but by the landlady or a female help. In no part of the United States did a female help, at a hotel, seat herself during meals; and I observed the practice only upon one occasion in a private house. The maid-servant at Bowmanville seated herself during tea in a corner of the room, and the like occurrence took place at Newmarket during supper. In Britain servants stand while assisting at table, and they also do so in Canada; the difference of attitude taking place when their services are not required. For my own part, I would much rather see a young waiting-maid seated, when not required, than standing perhaps painfully erect; and, in many instances, when taking tea or coffee, during my tour, I put it in the option of the helps to leave the room, which they generally did. There seems no general rule for attitude, as inferring respect. In some countries attendants almost humble themselves in the dust in presence of employers, and in others they are required to carry themselves erect.

We left Bowmanville at seven in the morning, by the mail-stage, which had taken fourteen hours to come forty-three miles; and my friend left my only thermometer at the door of the hotel. A few miles from Port Hope our waggon was changed for a small neat coach, which we found an agreeable alteration, and soon reached Coburg.

Port Hope is prettily situated near Lake Ontario, at the mouth of a small stream, murmuring over a rocky bottom, and well calculated for propelling machinery. There is a pier, and general appearances betoken prosperity.

Coburg is also situated near Lake Ontario, and much larger and more advanced than Port Hope. It has much trade with the country across Rice Lake.

There is a considerable extent of cleared ground from Bowmanville to Port Hope; the soil poor and ill managed. Near the latter it improves, and towards Coburg are some good farm-houses and offices, around which the fields are well cultivated and fenced.

Around Coburg the vegetable mould in the woods was three inches deep, and the soil sandy loam. The greater part of the soil we have seen in America is of soft texture, and easily laboured. Here we learned plough irons are only repaired twice a-year. At Newmarket a plough was pointed out, the irons of which had not been at the smithy since the previous October, and were still in tolerable order. Mildew was seen on wheat at Bowmanville and Coburg. A lime-kiln was preparing building-lime on the shores of the lake, and stones of the same rock were quarried for building.

We found the young men swallowing their food at the table of the hotel as fast as those of Albany did. It is almost a universal practice in the States and Canada to board men, such as clerks and shopmen, in hotels. A large bell or horn is sounded half an hour before meals, and again when served up. Hence the rush to table, and expeditious eating.

Next morning we set out in a waggon for Sully on Rice Lake, a steamer carrying us across the lake and up the river Otanabee to Peterborough, the head of navigation, where we found accommodation at Macfadden’s hotel.

When about to sit down to breakfast, I was introduced to Colonel B——, a Scotchman, who, when seated at table, stated he was from East Lothian. Knowing almost every individual in the district, I said in a tone of surprise, “Are you serious?” and scanned his features very closely. Answering in the affirmative, I asked if his name was Robert, if he had a brother, and immediately introduced myself as a class-fellow at the school of Haddington in 1806, not having since met or perhaps heard of each other. We talked over old stories, and I was delighted to find my friend possessed of one of the neatest and most comfortable cottages in the finest situation in Peterborough.

Peterborough is on the Otanabee, and likely to become a place of some importance. At present there are a number of mean houses scattered over a considerable extent of surface, and the population is stated at 1000 souls, although I would not have rated them near so high. It is said to contain a number of military and naval half-pay officers of Britain, and the society to be the most polished and aristocratic in Canada.

In the forenoon we walked up the left bank of the river to visit Mr T——, whom we met by the way, accompanied by his lady, who continued her journey on horseback, and he returned with us. In the evening we walked up the river side, passing an excellent mill-site, on which grist and saw-mills were being erected, until we reached a string of lakes, through which the Otanabee flows. The road up the banks of the river was just opening, the trees had not been felled the length of Mr T——’s, and in our evening walk some parts of the tract could only be crossed by leaping, like squirrels, from trunk to trunk of fallen trees. On one occasion my friend D——’s feet slipped, and he fell on his face, with both arms fixed in the mud.

We left Peterborough for Coburg on 22d July, by way of Rice Lake, and remarked that two-thirds of the people seen on the road were tipsy. This was a painful sight, which the heat of the weather did not soften or justify.

Rice Lake takes its name from the quantity of rice floating on its waters; it is surrounded by gentle rising banks, and contains several small islands. The lake is formed by the waters of the Otanabee, which, from the lake to within a short distance of Peterborough, forms an uninteresting sail, being a dense forest on both sides, with three or four log-huts in the course of sixteen miles. Above the rapids, at Peterborough, the river runs with considerable impetuosity, the banks become diversified, in size equalling the largest river in Britain, and its water-power, if properly developed, of considerable magnitude.

The surface, from Coburg to Rice Lake, is highly undulating, and, if cleared, would perhaps be picturesque; the soil gradually falling off, becoming poor sand, with timber of inferior size, and all kinds of crops bad. For miles, before reaching the lake, the road leads through thinly scattered oak trees, called plaines, or oak openings, covered with stunted underwood, with external indications of extreme sterility; but farther experience enables me to say, the appearance of the plaines is not owing to quality of soil, but to the herbage being annually burned.

To the west of the Otanabee, and on the banks of the lake, is a considerable clearance formed by government for the Massagur tribe of Indians, and called Indian Village, adjoining which is the residence of Captain Anderson, prettily situated.

The soil of the small clearances on the Otanabee, above Peterborough is not of very fine quality, and mingled with large stones, but seemed to improve on receding from the river. On cleared ground there was scarcely a plant of clover, or even of grass, with the exception of timothy, the seed of which had been sown. At the time of visiting this district I was inclined to think unfavourably of the soil from the want of clovers and grasses, but extended observation convinced me this circumstance had no connexion with the quality of soil, and would not operate unfavourably against the prosperity of these plants when their seeds are sown.

Near the banks of the Otanabee, a dark-coloured caterpillar had devoured some fields of timothy grass, with exception of the culms, and the insect had extended its ravages partially to Indian corn and wheat, but red clover was untouched, growing amongst timothy which had been entirely consumed. I could learn nothing of its natural history; but its attacks were said to have been felt in 1825; and accounts from distant parts of the north spoke of its attacks this year as highly destructive.

While delayed at Sully I strolled into the forest, and, on the margin of Rice Lake, found a solitary plant of red clover, having about fifty flower-stalks from one root, measuring five feet in height, and neither soil or situation seemed favourable to luxuriance. There were three heads faded, which I collected, and afterwards lost to my regret. On the plains there were many flowering plants and grasses, and I remarked _triticum repens_, the thick-rooted couch-grass of Britain, which is found over many parts of Canada. Gooseberries covered with strong prickles, which soften as the fruit ripens; and black currants, with prickly and unprickly fruit, were growing in the woods; and hazel loaded with nuts on open places.

Wages of farm-labourers in the neighbourhood of Peterborough were stated at $10 per month by the year, and at $12 in part of summer. A respectable settler in Smithstown told me he had offered $115 in cash per annum, to be paid when a crop was reaped from the labour. In all cases produce or store pay seems to be given, unless by special agreement to the contrary. Cash is a scarce commodity, and could not be obtained for wheat at the present time.

In course of my short excursion I had seen some bush life of individuals formerly moving in a higher grade than those on the Welland canal. The general impression was not favourable, and after farther experience of such life, many things appeared exceptionable. In particular, ardent spirits were too frequently used, mingled it is true with water, which perhaps did not mitigate their effects. A cask of spirits, with a crane, often stood in the corner of the room, and Mr D——r informed me Mr —— had a bee a few weeks before, which lasted two days, and at which eighty gallons of spirits were consumed.

The Newcastle district has been a fashionable place of settlement of late years, more especially around Peterborough; and I was soon aware of the means taken to induce people to settle in it. Before leaving Scotland I had seen a catalogue of a most extensive sale of land _purporting_ to take place in course of summer, and which contained a chart of the district in which the lands lay. The chart formed our only map, and was studded with villages, &c. In particular, Gambletown was marked on the chart with numerous houses, as if a place of considerable size; and on sailing up the Otanabee, on which it is situated, I expected a thriving village; but on stopping to obtain a supply of firewood, what was my disappointment at only finding two log-huts, one of which was unoccupied! Accounts of the value of land appear exaggerated. Uncleared forest land had, it was said, been sold at some distance from Peterborough at $8 per acre, and some people wished me to believe all land bore a relative value. A gentleman estimated his property at $20 per acre, while I was offered the adjoining back lot of better soil at $6, and I have no doubt could have got it for $4 cash. A property has been said to yield annually L.500, which is very near the sum I valued it at in perpetuity after examination.

On the morning of the 23d we left Coburg for Carrying-place on the bay of Quinte, which we reached before dusk, having passed over an undulating surface, the soil of which, with exception of part near Carrying-place, was sandy and stony. Crops of all kinds inferior. A field of rye had been cradled, and one of wheat was sufficiently matured for the operation. This line of road illustrated the evils arising from want of knowledge of soils in new settlers. Much of the soil was drift sand, and would not repay the expenses of cultivation, cheap as those in Canada are. Several farms seemed to have been deserted after having been some years occupied; and unacquaintance with land, and other parts of the American continent, can alone account for human beings having wasted their labour in clearing such unfruitful soil.

Next morning we left Carrying-place at four for Kingston, where we arrived at nine P. M., having passed Trent, Belville, Sophiaburgh, Hallowell, and Bath.

The bay of Quinte is a branch of Lake Ontario, and a sail on its waters perhaps imparts as much pleasure as any in Canada. Numberless islands, bays, and promontories of every size, shape, and aspect, together with ever-varying shades of vegetation, delight the eye. In many places the margins are low, but for miles, on both sides of Hallowell, the banks are of considerable height, well clothed with wood and adorned with houses. In the distance was an island with a considerable sized Indian village, said to contain 600 souls. The white-washed cots had a fine effect in passing down the bay, while the inhabitants fishing in their fragile canoes, and gliding to and fro on the unruffled waters, added interest to the scene. On the mainland, opposite to the island, is an Indian reserve, on which is a church, lonely situated near the margin of the bay, and very unlike the worshipping places of more civilized men. But the half-naked Indian, in recesses of the forest, may offer homage to the Author of the Universe, with as much sincerity and hope of acceptance, as the purple-clad in the glittering temples of the city.

The shores of the bay of Quinte have long been settled, and a considerable extent of surface freed of wood. Wheat appeared nearly ripe, and in a few instances cradling had commenced. Crops were inferior and crowded with thistles, apparently the common perennial way-thistle of Britain. My friend D—— and I, walking on deck, remarked a field bearing a dense-looking crop with purple coloured flowers, which one pronounced clover, the other pease, but on nearer approach it was seen to be pasturage intermixed with thistles. This was an unfortunate mistake for those having some pretensions to a knowledge of practical agriculture, and perhaps the thistle-grower may esteem our discernment as lightly as we do his management. This species of thistle is known in the States by the name of the Canada thistle, and some proposals have been made in the State of New York, to legislate to prevent its increase.

Kingston is finely situated on a bay of Lake Ontario, over which there is an excellent wooden bridge, perhaps the best in America, connecting the town with the fort and naval yard. Most of the houses are of stone or brick, and the inhabitants estimated at 6000 souls. It enjoys a considerable trade, which is likely to be greatly augmented by the opening of the Rideau canal, which here enters the lake.

We examined the barracks, most substantial erections, also the fort and naval yard; the former is renewing with the best materials; the vessels in the docks are hastening to decay. Regarding war in every case an evil, and its engines too often misapplied, the rotting vessels excited more pleasing ideas than the rising fort.

We learned masons employed at the fort got $1 a-day, without finding or board; and in town considerably more, when store pay is given. One gentleman said he would rather give $120 store-pay than $100 cash; and a workman said he preferred $9 cash to $12 store-pay. I could not learn that employer and storekeeper unite for the purpose of plundering workmen. At present storekeepers constitute the most wealthy and powerful class in the community, landowners and workmen being generally indebted to them, hence enormous profits. The common per centage on retailing provisions at Kingston, being stated at 70 per cent, dry goods 100. Potash sells at Montreal for L.24 a-ton; the farmer at Kingston gets L.17 store-pay, equal to L.12 cash.

In the neighbourhood of Kingston grasshoppers were numerous, many of them having wings, and flying a considerable distance. This insect is numerous throughout America, and sometimes seriously injures grass crops. As cultivation extends, its numbers are likely to decrease.

Having perambulated Kingston and the surrounding country, the soil of which was inferior, with limestone everywhere protruding, we got on board a steam-boat for Prescott, where we arrived at midnight, and again sailed for Longsault in the Iroquois steamer, a light vessel with paddles in the stern, built for navigating the rapids of the St Lawrence, and which has been found to answer well. From Longsault we passed to Cornwall by a stage, and again by a steamer to Coteau-de-lac, where we got into a stage to Cascades, and by steam to Lachine, and from thence by land to Montreal.

On leaving Kingston I anticipated much pleasure in sailing through the Lake of the Thousand Isles, which forms the passage of Lake Ontario into the river St Lawrence, but the curtain of night fell before we had well entered, and the light of the moon did not render objects distinct. There was a pleasing novelty in the lake from the number of low islands like tufts of vegetation sleeping on the surface, and glistening with the fires of the wood-choppers. The moon’s shadow in the ripple of the waters was particularly beautiful, and some hours might have been passed pleasantly on deck but for a cold, damp atmosphere.

The St Lawrence being the first river of magnitude I had sailed on, my preconceptions of its effects on the senses were quickly dispelled; the objects on its level banks being indistinct and soon lost to the eye. The associations suggested by the endless and ever-varying objects, successively and vividly impressed on the mind’s eye in passing down a river in Britain, are altogether wanting. Fertility, shelter, health, and peaceful retirement, so dear to a Scottish farmer, and almost invariably the attributes of the streamlets of his country, belong not to the St Lawrence in this part of its course, where the low lying, and in many places reed-growing, margins suggest pestilence and privation. The immensity of fresh water hurrying towards the sea fills the mind with wonder.

Around Cornwall, and more particularly from Coteau-du-Lac to the Cascades, much excellent wheat was growing on clay soil formed into very narrow ridges. Other crops were indifferent, and nearly choked with perennial thistles. From Lachine to Montreal we observed many wild oats (_Avena fatua_) for the first time in America.