Chapter 10 of 14 · 22602 words · ~113 min read

CHAPTER V.

(CENTRAL SUDAN.)

* * * * *

31.—KHARTOUM TO WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, AND KARKOJ, UP LEFT BANK OF BLUE NILE.

COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY MAJOR DE ROUGEMONT AND CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY.

_Corrected up to_ 1904.

Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.

32.—KHARTOUM TO GOZ ABU GUMA AND JEBELEIN, UP RIGHT BANK OF WHITE NILE.

COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY CAPTAINS T. CONOLLY AND W. A. BOULNOIS (1899).

N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far as Shawal.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |Leaving the most westerly group of | | |palms at Khartoum, the road runs | | |due south for a mile, leaving the | | |village of Goz on the left, and | | |that of Rumeila on the right. | | |Cotton soil. River visible. | | | | | |In next 7 miles road runs (185 | | |Mag.), passing a string of | | |villages on the right (W.) about 1 Assara | — | — |mile away. The name of all these | | |seems to be Assara, till one gets Kalakla | 5 | 6 |to the village of Kalakla, about 6 | | |miles from Khartoum, situated in a | | |large clump of trees. Road runs on | | |open desert sand—very good going; | | |river invisible, about 2 miles | | |off. | | | Sheikh Um | 3 | 9 |At 9 miles from Khartoum road Meriom | | |passes a village with a high tomb | | |in it, called Sheikh Wad Um | | |Meriom. This lies on the river | | |about 1½ miles from the main road. | | | El Kalakeil | 1 | 10 |At 10 miles road passes El | | |Kalakeil on the E. side of it. | | |There are some signs in this last | | |mile of the country having been | | |cultivated. From here the river is | | |about 3 miles off, invisible on | | |account of the bank of sand which | | |forms the desert edge, and some | | |trees on it. | | | | | |After this the road enters some | | |low sand hills, with large clumps | | |of big trees on the river side | | |about ½ mile off. | | | | 3 | 13 |Three miles off this brings one | | |into the first open scrub, which | | |gets closer as it approaches the | | |river—but is not thick, except in | | |a few places on the river bank. | | | Geziret Haraz | 4 | 17 |At 17 miles the head of two | | |islands at high Nile (now no Geziret Um | — | — |longer islands), called Geziret Arda | | |Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These | | |islands are, I believe, some 5 | | |miles apart at high Nile, but are | | |now practically one, owing to big | | |alluvial flat from which they | | |rise, being dry at this time of | | |the year (10.3.99). | | | | | |At this point, and for the next 3 | | |miles on the road, there are a | | |good number of shallow, 15 to 20 | | |feet, wells, giving good water, | | |slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but | | |7 were reported by natives. There | | |are a good number of camels to be | | |seen in this piece of country. | | | J. Auli | 8 | 25 |Eight miles further takes one to | | |J. Auli, a steep rock about 100 | | |feet high, with a small under- | | |feature on the N.W., about 50 | | |feet. There is a good meshra, or | | |watering place. Under this | | |mountain there is a good camping | | |ground for a brigade. | | | Gar El Nabi | 3 | 28 |Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 | | |miles Gar El Nabi is reached, | | |which lies close to it. These 3 | | |miles are through open bush, with | | |river visible about ½ to 1 mile | | |off. | | | | 4 | 32 |For the next 4 miles the bush gets | | |thicker and the road is crossed by | | |small khors, and in places by | | |cultivation zeribas. River | | |invisible. | | | | | |Next 6 miles the bush gets more | | |open again, and a line of small | | |sand hills is seen along the river | | |edge hiding it. Horses can be | | |watered anywhere in this 6 miles. | | |In the last half of this distance | | |the trees cease on the east side | | |of the road and 2 large khors | | |cross it. | | | Opposite J. | 6 | 38 |At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite Barima or | | |on the other bank of the river. Breima | | |For about 2 miles before reaching | | |this point, and for 2½ miles after | | |it, the road runs through sand | | |hills, the river being visible | | |about ½ mile off. | | | | | |At this point (2½ miles south of | | |J. Barima) the river is quite | | |close to the road, which changes | | |its direction to 200° magnetic. | | | | 7 | 45 |The road rises slightly in the | | |next mile and 3½ miles further on | | |goes through bush which, though | | |open on the E. side, is fairly | | |thick on the W., making the river | | |invisible. | | | Wad Belal | 3 | 48 |After 3 miles through open bush | | |and sand hills, Wad Belal, a wood | | |station for steamers and a good | | |watering place is reached. | | | | 2 | 50 |For the first 2 miles from Wad | | |Belal the road runs through | | |scattered trees which become | | |fairly close bush on the river | | |side for another 2 miles. | | | El Geteina | 4½ | 54½ |The road enters a large plain of | | |cotton soil, with three tracks | | |across it to Arab dwellings, | | |towards the centre of the Gezira | | |about 4 miles in, and reaches the | | |large village of El Geteina. On | | |the river side there is a large | | |alluvial flat about 2 miles | | |across, and 3 to 4 miles long, | | |which runs north of El Geteina | | |towards Wad Belal. There is a | | |curious round sand hill in the | | |middle of this flat which must be | | |an island at high Nile. | | | | | |El Geteina consists of two | | |villages about 1 mile apart, the | | |larger of the two being to the | | |north. It is fairly clean and has | | |a very good market. There was a | | |certain amount of cultivation | | |going on with Shadufs (not an | | |amount proportionate to the size | | |of the village), and a large tract | | |of country is obviously sown with | | |dura during the rains. This was | | |the most prosperous village I saw | | |on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is | | |now Head Quarters of Geteina | | |District. | | | | | |One mile over cotton soil beyond | | |the village of El Geteina, a small | | |one of the same name is reached. | | | | | |Immediately on leaving this, the | | |road runs into sand dunes with | | |bush for 1 mile; river close (200 | | |yards). | | | | | |After that, 6½ miles of very good | | |going through scattered trees. The | | |road here is crossed by a large | | |number of Arab tracks to meshras; | | |and many herds of sheep and goats | | |were seen. River invisible from | | |road. | | | | | |The next 3 miles runs through | | |fairly thick bush with open | | |spaces. This bush gets thinner as | | |it recedes from the river. During | | |the next 2½ miles the road passes | | |to west of a fine strip of open | | |cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, | | |separated from the river by a | | |thick strip of bushes and a large | | |alluvial plain, so that now | | |(12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles | | |from the river. Much dura seems to | | |have been grown here, but only a | | |small portion of this large plain | | |was under cultivation last year. | | | | | |At the end of this plain to the | | |S.E. there are a line of sand | | |hills running N.E. to S.W., and | | |getting gradually smaller towards | | |the S.W. These run alongside the | | |road, beyond the open plain, and | | |end in some small dunes near the Garrasa | 12 | 66½ |village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a | | |small village—without a market—the | | |people of which seem poor. There | | |is a good meshra here. Leaving | | |Garrasa the road runs through | 3 | 69½ |about 3 miles of dura land, a | | |large part of which has been | | |recently cultivated. River ¼ to ½ | | |mile away. | | | Wad Shalai | 2½ | 72 |After 2½ miles more, alongside | | |sand hills near the river, the | | |road reaches the small village of | | |Wad Shalai—the inhabitants of | | |which were all away on the river | | |bank cultivating. | | | Wad El Saki | 7 | 79 |Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, | | |a large village on the top of some | | |sand hills, is reached. | | | | | |The population was about 400 to | | |500 (March, 1899). The road runs | | |the first half of this distance | | |through sand dunes on both sides, | | |with the river close and visible. | | |The last half leaves the river | | |gradually, and passing through | | |some dura ground, is about 1½ | | |miles from it at Wad El Saki. | | | Sayef | 3 | 82 |From here 3 miles take one to a | | |few houses about 2 miles from the | | |river on some sand hills called | | |Sayef, being one of three villages | | |of that name. | | | | 4 | 86 |After 4 miles over cotton soil the | | |road crosses a sand-hill ridge | | |running at right angles to the | 1 | 87 |river, and about 1 mile from it, | | |and descends into the plain close | | |to the river at a point where | | |another village, also called | | |Sayef, is seen about 2 miles | | |inland. At this point there is a | | |good meshra, and a ferry to the | | |other bank. | | | | 6 | 93 |After several miles of low scrub | | |on the river side, and cotton soil | | |which has all been cultivated, on | | |the east Debasi Meshra is reached. | | | | | |Here the Khalifa had a big grain | | |depôt, the ruins of which can | | |still be seen. There is a regular | | |ferry from here to the other bank. | | |Two miles from this meshra is the Debasi | 2 | 95 |village of Debasi; population | | |about 400. The road for this | | |distance is through sand hills, ½ | | |mile from the river. | | | | | |The village is on the north bank | | |of deep khor. No water in khor | | |(13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might | | |entail 2 or 3 miles circuit at | | |high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha | | |(3½ miles) road close to bank. | | |Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles | | |distant. | | | | | |Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile | | |east of road. Sandy bank to river, | | |good watering; slight scrub close | | |to river to 6th mile. Thence scrub | | |and sunt trees along road (thick | | |near river), cotton soil, muddy | | |bank. Road closes to river at | | |Ghobeisha. | | | Ghobeisha | 13 | 108 |Ghobeisha meshra and village, good | | |place for camp and watering. Road | | |crosses open plain with high grass | | |cotton soil, probably under water | | |at high Nile. | | | Ghayafa | 4½ | 112½ |Ghayafa meshra, good camping | | |ground and watering place; sand | | |hill near meshra. Scrub fairly | | |thick, cotton soil. | | | Denegila | 8½ | 121 |Denegila village, W. of road, | | |opposite island of same name; 1½ | | |miles further, village Abu Karun, | | |N. of road, where it crosses track Um Gar | 4 | 125 |to Um Seneita, thence to Um Gar | | |village, W. of road, opposite | | |island same name. Dura crops in | | |this district; thick bush close to Meshra El | 3 | 128 |river to Meshra El Hella. Road Hella | | |runs close to river to Kawa. | | | Kawa | 4 | 132 |Kawa, large village with suk, Head | | |Quarters of District, Post and | | |Telegraph station. Road runs ½ | | |mile to 1 mile from river through | | |dura cultivation, and then over | | |grassy plain past village Abu | | |Hindi. | | | Meshra | 6 | 138 |Meshra and village close to river. Shaggara | | | | | | | | |Thence past Kanuz village, with | | |island opposite, the road runs ¼ | | |mile to ½ mile from river to Hassan Alob | 7 | 145 |Hassan Alob, on the banks of the | | |river with an island called Dabus | | |opposite. Still through bush Nur Ed Daim | 3 | 148 |country to Nur El Daim (large | | |village and police station). Road | | |leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile Sheikh’s tomb | 3 | 151 |distant up to Sheikh’s tomb | | |(Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on | | |the river bank. Three large trees, | | |a ruined mud and brick building, | | |and some flags mark it. | | | Shawal | 2 | 153 |Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large | | |village. Country: open bush, | | |slightly undulating; good sandy | | |watering places at river. J. | | |Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island | | |begins 2 miles S. | | | Malaha | 3 | 156 |Meshra Malaha and village | | |Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt Marabia | 8 | 164 |works. Road enters scrub; bush | | |country to Marabia, good camping | | |ground on high ground, where there | | |are the ruins of an old fort and | | |brick buildings. Road leaves | | |river, crosses a grassy | | |plain—probably under water at full | | |Nile—passed village Torba, E. of Goz Abu Guma | 16½ | 180½ |road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu or Zeinuba | | |Guma, Head Quarters of District, | | |telegraph and post office. | | | | | |From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile | | |to 1 mile from river. Line of | | |villages (_see_ sketch) on high | | |ground about 4½ miles from river. | | |Chiefly cattle grazing. | | | _El Khema_ | 6 | 186½ |Road joins river at El Khema. | | |Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; _Mokada Abu | 4½ | 195½ |good camping ground and small Zeit_ | | |village. There is a ford here at | | |low Nile. Two miles further on | | |Musran Island begins and continues | | |to 3 miles of Jebelein. | | | _Meshra Hedib_| 4½ | 200 |Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The | | |road keeps close to the river | | |bank. The E. channel seemed very | | |much blocked with sudd, only a | | |narrow passage 50 yards wide being | | |visible at times. | | | | | |There is a meshra to Musran | | |Island, 7 miles as the road turns | | |from Jebelein called Zuleit. Hence _Meshra | 17½ | 217½ |the road winds through thick Zuleit_ | | |scrub, with patches of open | | |country right up to the ford at _Jebelein_ | 8½ | 225 |Jebelein. | | | | | |Rocky hills commanding the river | | |about 300 feet high. | | | | | |Grassy plain between north and | | |south ridges. | | | | | |Village on E. of southern ridge. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

33.—KHARTOUM TO GULE, _viâ_ MANAGIL AND SEGADI.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — |Leaving Khartoum by the track | | |passing 200 yards west of the | | |westernmost rifle butts, the | | |country for the first 7 miles is | | |quite open, and very slightly | | |undulating. The soil is poor and | | |sandy, and no attempt at | | |cultivation is visible. At 8 miles | | |the track passes through low | | |scattered arak bush, which _Id El | 17½ | 17½ |continues to Id El Agaliin, where Agaliin_ | | |there is one well 120 feet deep | | |with a good supply of water. Ahmed | | |El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin. | | |Very fair grazing for camels on | | |arak bush. Leaving the Id the | | |country soon becomes open and | | |bare, the soil richer, and traces | | |of cultivation appear. Numerous | | |cross tracks to the river are met | | |with. | | | _Id Wad El | 4 | 21½ |One well 120 feet deep; water said Bella_ | | |to be plentiful. | | | _Sherafat_ | 9 | 30½ |A tukl village (all villages met | | |hereafter are built of tukls) is | | |passed 1¼ miles on W. of track. It | | |has a well. A mile further on arak | | |and laot bush commence and _Id El Orus_ | 5½ | 36 |continue to Id El Orus, where | | |there is one well 120 feet deep; | | |water plentiful, but slightly | | |salt. About a mile before reaching | | |the Id a large village named | | |Debeisa is passed about 1 mile to | | |the east. The people here are a | | |mixture of Jaalin, Awamer, &c. | | |Very fair grazing for camels on | | |arak; there is little or no grass | | |here or anywhere else this year. | | | | 7½ | 43½ |On leaving the Id the same sort of | | |country continues, cultivation and | | |scattered arak bush, the track | | |still keeping the same S.S.W. | | |direction. At 7½ miles the road to | | |El Ribi branches off half left, _Id El Kereil_| 2½ | 46 |and 2½ miles further on Id El | | |Kereil is passed, ½ mile off on | 2 | 48 |the right, the village being about | | |the same distance further W. of | | |the well. The country now becomes | | |perfectly bare (at this season), | | |it being entirely under | | |cultivation, if not this year at | | |any rate in a good season, and the | | |bush ceases altogether. Villages | | |begin to get numerous, and natives | | |are more frequently met, as from | | |here on to Managil, but few leave | | |their villages for the river. This | | |district is known as Gutefab, and _Gutefab El | 4 | 52 |the chief village is El Areik Areik_ | | |(Awamer) which is on the road, the | | |Id being a mile to the east. | | | | 3 | 55 |About 3 miles on arak grows and | | |affords the only grazing for | | |camels, but it only extends for | | |about ½ mile along the road; the | | |country then become scattered with | 2 | 57 |laot bush and naal grass. | | | Goz El Naga | 2 | 59 |Goz El Naga is passed about a mile | | |on the right. Not much cultivation | | |visible about here. | | | Dagala | 3 | 62 |A small village with no well. | | | | 1½ | 63½ |Road branches: right to Sarhan, | | |left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where Wad Abu | 3 | 66½ |lives the sheikh of the same name; Kassawi | | |his ancestors are buried close by, | | |and have always been of a so- | | |called religious nature and used | | |to be at any rate, if not now, | | |head of a dervish-like Tarika. | | |Village consists of about 100 | | |tukls. Low laot bush around here. | 1¾ | 68¼ |Leaving the village on bearing | | |216° after 1¾ miles road from _Sarhan_ | 3 | 71¼ |Dagala to Sarhan is met and | | |followed; the well of Sarhan being | | |passed close by on the left and | | |the village about 1 mile on the | | |right. Country here quite flat, | | |and covered with naal grass where _El Ogda_ | 5¾ | 77 |not cultivated. El Ogda a large | | |Mugharba village with one well of | | |the usual depth, 120 feet. Water | | |plentiful, 50 camels watered | | |without inconvenience to | | |inhabitants. Leaving the Id, | | |country continues the same flat | | |naal-covered plain with occasional _Wad El Zein_ | 11¾ | 88¾ |laot bushes until nearing Wad El | | |Zein (Omda Ahmed Wad El Zein), | | |where remains of cultivation | | |increase. There is one well 120 | | |feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No | | |grazing here for camels as | | |elsewhere in this neighbourhood. | | |Cultivation occurs at intervals, | | |becoming more general after | | |passing Sheteita a small Mugharba _Sheteita_ | 4 | 92¾ |village. Kreimet is a large Arakin | | |village, Omda Ahmed Yusef. Its two _Kreimet_ | 5½ | 98¼ |wells are 4 miles further on. | | |Another large Arakin village on _Wells_ | 4 | 102¼ |left of road with a well, as also | | |have two other villages close on El Tageia | 1¼ | 103½ |right of road. | | | _Managil_ | 3½ | 107 |The plural of El Mangala, the name | | |given to the village in which the | | |suk is situated. There are some | | |half dozen to a dozen villages | | |close together. There are three | | |wells and water never fails, | | |notwithstanding they are 150 feet | | |deep. Here there are inspector’s | | |houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There | | |is a large mixed population, some | | |of whom were seen playing a game | | |called “tiwa” very like rounders. | | |The plain of Managil is absolutely | | |flat, without a single bush in | | |sight, the whole in favourable | | |seasons being given up to | | |cultivation. Market days are | | |Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving | | |Managil by the route taken Otgi | | |(Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El | | |Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile | | |or more on the right hand, whilst | | |Takala and Um Dugl are passed on | | |the left, before reaching Um Talha | | |a Faradiin village. All these | | |villages have wells, as have all | | |villages of any pretensions about _Um Talha_ | 9½ | 116½ |here. | | | _Sheleikha_ | 2½ | 119 |A Shaigia village passed on left, | | |and Wad Doka on the right, before _El Amara_ | 3½ | 122½ |reaching El Amara (Hameg), and ¾ | | |mile further on Wad Gangar _Wad Gangari_ | ¾ | 123¼ |(Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾ miles | | |further on, and a ¼ mile before _Rabaha_ | 1¾ | 125 |reaching it a small suk is passed. | | |From here on the people are | | |Kawahla. | | | | | |Between Managil and Rabaha the | | |track appears to follow a low | | |ridge overlooking an extensive and | | |fertile plain to the W. growing a | | |large amount of cotton and dura. | | |J. Maturi is plainly visible. | | | | | |After leaving Rabaha track passes | | |through low laot bush which | | |continues as far as Khalet. Two | | |villages, Hellet El Hag and Wad | | |Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile | | |on the right and left of road _en | | |route_, as also is Sheikh Abdel _Khalet_ | 5½ | 130½ |Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is | | |the last on the road to Segadi, | | |there are several other Kawahla | | |villages with cultivation and | | |wells close by. Imam Ali is the | | |head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet | | |it is possible under favourable | | |conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon | | |after leaving Khalet the first | | |kittr is met, it now becomes the | | |prevailing bush. | | | Wad Mukashfi | 4½ | 135 |Called after the son of the | | |Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, | | |who (son) now lives here and is | | |said to have only lately come out | | |of prison for dervish practices. | | |This is the last village in the | | |Managil District of Blue Nile | | |Province. The Sennar Province is | | |now entered. After passing the | | |Mukashfi cultivation, the road | | |leads across an uninhabited | | |waterless plain until Segadi is | | |reached. This plain, on which | | |numerous camels are grazed during | | |the rains, is, as a rule, open and | | |covered with naal and siha grass | | |intersected at intervals by belts | | |of kittr, the thickest and widest | | |is in the last 4 miles before | | |reaching the hamlet on the north _J. Sejadi_ | 24 | 159 |of J. Segadi. Another outlying | | |hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed | 1 | 160 |but not seen, about 4 miles from | | |the jebel which strongly resembles | | |J. Kassala on a small scale. It | | |consists of two main granite | | |masses lying north-east and south- | | |west, the wells being between | | |them. There is also one on the | | |western side of main jebel. The | | |village, which must contain some | | |1,500 inhabitants, is close to the | | |western face of the larger jebel. | | |The population is very mixed, and | | |many only live here during the dry | | |season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is | | |Sheikh of this heterogeneous | | |crowd. There are said to be caves | | |in the jebels here, which | | |doubtless occasionally harbour bad | | |characters from the Gezira and | | |elsewhere. | | | _Moya_ | 13½ | 173½ |Following the telegraph line which | | |runs E.S.E., Moya is reached in | | |about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is | | |passed through _en route_, but the | | |road is cleared for the wire. | | |Approaching Moya much cultivation | | |is passed in clearings in the | | |bush. The name Moya as applied to | | |this village is an euphemism as | | |water is particularly scarce, and | | |is obtained from several 15 to 20 | | |feet wells under the jebel 1 mile | | |south of the village. In the hot | | |weather the inhabitants (probably | | |2,000) disperse or else carry | | |their water from Segadi. The | | |Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, | | |and the majority of the population | | |are Amarna, a few Hameg and | | |Gowama. There are caves called | | |“maiuba” in the jebel close to the | | |village, said to be used for | | |“fogara.” From the summit of the | | |jebel, J. Dali is plainly visible | | |on a favourable day, bearing 177½° | | |magnetic. There is little shade | | |here. | | | Road to Teigo | 3 | 176½ |After hugging the eastern end of | | |J. Moya, the road to Gule turns | | |nearly due south, the road to | | |Teigo branching off S.S.E., and | | |after traversing a bad belt of | | |kittr bush about ½ mile in width, | | |the road crosses a plain at first | | |studded with kurmet, but later | | |without bush at all. | | | | 4 | 180½ |Road here bifurcates, the left | | |hand track leading to the river | | |(Blue Nile). | | | | 5 | 185½ |The road from Seneij or Senga to | | |Goz Abu Guma _viâ_ J. Dud crosses | | |the track. | | | J. Sereig | 10 | 195½ |A small granite hill about 200 | | |feet high, the road passes it 100 | | |yards on the right hand. | | | | 6 | 201½ |Scattered bush now commences and | | |continues with occasional _J. Dali_ | 19½ | 221 |interruptions until reaching the | | |bad kittr about 1 mile wide | | |surrounding Jebel Dali, a stony | | |hill about 500 feet high. Water is | | |found about half way up, | | |immediately below its highest | | |point. After a good rainy season | | |it lasts till March or April, but | | |there was practically none on | | |February 4th, 1902. | | | | | |The road from Senga _viâ_ Teigo on | | |Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu | | |Guma passes by this watering | | |place. Remains of former | | |habitations of Abu Rof Arabs are | | |visible. Leaving the jebel in a | | |southerly direction after | | |traversing a thick belt of kittr, | | |½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible J. Abu Garud | 22 | 243 |on the left and J. Abu Garud and | | |other hills on the right. Abu | | |Garud is the highest hill seen | | |south of Khartoum. At first the | | |country is open, then forest | | |(chiefly soffar) begins and J. Bozi | 9 | 252 |continues till after passing J. | | |Bozi a long, low hill immediately | | |under the west end of which the | | |road passes, and then becomes open _J. Mazmum_ | 14 | 266 |until reaching J. Mazmum. Here | | |rain and spring water is found in | | |natural tanks in perhaps half a | | |dozen places. The amount of water | | |of course varying with the rains. | | |There was sufficient in a tank at | | |the foot of the southern end of | | |the western face of the jebel to | | |water 40 camels and 40 men for two | | |days. This exhausted this supply. | | |A spring at the foot of the | | |southern end of the western face, | | |being on the road, is the one | | |generally used, and the supply is _Water Tank_ | 1½ | 267½ |consequently low. There is a tank | | |about 20 yards by 10 yards on a | | |detached hill, about ¾ mile N.W. | | |of main jebel. Water was found of | | |an average depth of 2 feet, both | | |sweet and clear. This being off | | |the road had not been much used. | | |There is said to be always water | | |at Mazmum. No natives[21] live | | |here now, though formerly it was | | |head quarters of the Abu Rof | | |Arabs, the remains of whose houses | | |are still visible. Good shade (200 | | |men), and very fair grazing for | | |camels near western water tank. | | |From here, Gireiwa and other hills | | |to the S. and S.E., as well as | | |Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily | | |visible. | | | | 4 | 271½ |The track to Gule still leads | | |south, the country being open for | 5 | 276½ |first 4 miles, when narrow belt of | | |bush is traversed. Five miles | | |further on thick soffar bush | | |commences which develops into | | |forest, which extends E. and W. | | |continuously for many miles south | | |of Gule. The principal trees are | | |hashab (very numerous about 20th | | |mile, but decrease as Gireiwa is | | |approached), talh, nabag, soffar, | | |kadad, and the poisonous (to | | |camels) hakabit. Wide clearings | | |along the path indicate that in | | |the old days this road was much | | |used, but now they are mostly | | |overgrown, and travelling by night | | |is an unpleasant, if not a | | |dangerous proceeding. | | | _J. Gireiwa_ | 21½ | 298 |Two long low hills running nearly | | |E. and W., and where the road | | |passes between them there is a | | |small supply of water (spring), 20 | | |yards on right side of road. | | | _El Burun_ | 7 | 305 |J. Gule is first visible from | | |here, and is a granite mass about | | |1,300 (?) feet high and 1¾ miles | | |long, lying nearly E. and W. El | | |Burun a small village at the foot | | |of northern face of the jebel is | | |first approached, the road then | | |turns to the west, passing an | | |encampment of Dar Agil Arabs, and | | |after rounding the western end of _Gule_ | 3 | 308 |Jebel Gule the village of Gule is | | |reached close at the foot of | | |western and of southern face. | | |There is a plentiful supply of | | |water, which, however, is largely | | |impregnated with lime and | | |consequently is injurious to | | |health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh | | |of Dar Fung and lives here. He is | | |a direct descendant of the kings | | |of the Fung, whose former | | |territory extended to the south | | |beyond the present limits of the | | |Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The | | |total inhabitants of Gule and its | | |two outlying hamlets is about | | |1,000. The natives are Hameg, and | | |Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam | | |about in the neighbourhood. Roads | | |lead from here to Roseires (5 | | |days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, | | |and Renk (2 days). There is much | | |fever here during and after the | | |rainy season. There is good shade | | |about 1 mile east of the village. | | |Little in the way of supplies, not | | |even grain, is obtainable here. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

34.—MANAGIL TO SENNAR.

BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH, V.C., 1899.

35.—KEILI TO SENGA, _viâ_ GULE.

COMPILED FROM A REPORT FURNISHED BY LIEUT.-COL. GORRINGE, MARCH, 1903.

36.—SENGA TO J. JEROK, _viâ_ KHOR OFAT AND KEILI.

BY CAPTAIN C. ROBERTS, R.A., FEBRUARY, 1904.

NOTE.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.

From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate.

37.—ROSEIRES TO KEILI, _viâ_ GULE.

BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1902.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Roseires | — | — | | | | Abramat | 3 | 3 |Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road | | |goes through bush and grass. | | | _J. Agadi_[22]| 22 | 25 |Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here | | |in three places, not good. Road | | |now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; | | |usual cotton soil and bush. | | | _Seraf Jogo_ | 25 | 50 |Rest house and good water here in | | |khor from a spring; tobacco | | |cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad | | |going, over rocks; pass spring at | | |Pingulo; road going W. to Buk. | | | _J. Buk_ | 12 | 62 |Water here under villages on S. | | |side of hill, not good. Road goes | | |off N.W. towards Gule; grass and | | |bush and cotton soil. | | | _Gule_ | 27½ | 89½ |Water here good in two places on | | |S. side of hill. One deep well, _Khor Deleib_ | 16½ | 106 |good water, also big hole with | | |Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; | | |a flat depression with small khor | | |in it; sometimes water holes where | | |Arabs water sheep. Well 20 feet | | |deep, good supply of water; track | | |turns to S. to J. Silak. | | | _J. Silak_ | 22 | 128 |Water south side of hill, full of | | |filth, natives even say it is bad, | | |except just after rain. Rest house | | |here. | | | | | |Road goes off due E. through pass | | |in J. Sirefat to J. Mogaja. | | | _J. Majaju_ | 19¼ | 147¼ |Village on top of high rock; water | | |has to be brought down by natives— | | |very good; go due South now to | | |Abuldugu, road over hard ground. | | |Well can be easily sunk at bottom | | |of hill 6 feet deep. Rest house. | | | _J. Abuldugu_ | 16½ | 163¾ |Water here in pond in pass in the | | |hills, getting bad at this time of | | |year (Feb.). Water obtainable from | | |wells in K. Ganna, not very | | |plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a | | |Rest house here. | | | | | |Track due S. to J. Surkum. | | | | | |A track also goes to Keili (9 | | |hours march), water plentiful, | | |Kukeli two-thirds of way. | | | _J. Surkum_ | 14 | 177¾ |Water in four places on S. | | |side—very dirty. | | | | | |Water also obtainable in khor | | |about 1½ miles N.E. | | | _J. Keili_ | 20 | 197¾ |Track goes off to W., and is over | | |cotton soil, and crosses khors. | | |Water here plentiful. Best water | | |S. end of big hill some way up. | | |Rest house. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

38.—FAZOGLI TO GEZAN.

BY LIEUTENANT L. C. JACKSON, R.E.

[Sidenote: The Road.]

Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.

[Sidenote: The Country.]

Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.

[Sidenote: Water.]

Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later.

Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Fazogli, Mek’s| — | — |The road leaves the village in a House | | |southerly direction and runs | | |straight to the foot of J. | | |Fazogli, on reaching which it | | |follows the S.E. spur, but without | | |ascending it. At first it runs | | |through patches of cultivation, | | |but after about ½ mile this gives | | |place to thin bush. The road is | | |for the most part good, except | | |where it crosses numerous small | | |khors, tributaries of the Khor | | |Akluli, which also follows the | | |foot of the ridge, as a rule | | |between the road and the high | | |ground. The ascent on the right of | | |the road is very steep, and the | | |hill side consists of boulders and | | |loose stones and is covered with | | |scrub. | | | _Kukuru_ | 6¾ | 6¾ |Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a | | |few tukls are passed, and shortly | | |afterwards the road bends | | |eastwards and enters the village | | |of Kukuru, which consists of some | | |50 or 60 tukls. There is a | | |considerable amount of cultivation | | |here, but most of it lies S. of | | |the khor on the Kira road. At the | | |end of December, 1899, water was | | |only obtainable from holes in the | | |bed of the khor, and appears to be | | |very bad and scarce. | | | | | |After crossing the khor the road | | |runs straight through the bush to | | |J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. | | |Up to J. Taza the surrounding | | |country is flat and the bush | | |thick, and nothing can be seen | | |from the road, except an | | |occasional glimpse of a distant | | |hill. A very small quantity of | | |water was obtained by digging in | | |the bed of the _Khor Daru_ on the | | |24th December, 1899, but four days | | |later on returning this had dried | | |up. | | | | | |Beyond J. Taza the country is more | | |undulating, but still covered with | | |bush, and for the last ½ mile | | |before Khor Baba it is somewhat | | |rough. | | | _Khor Baba_ | 8¾ | 15½ |Camped here 25th December, 1899. A | | |tributary of the Khor Tumat about | | |25 yards broad where crossed by | | |the road. Good water obtainable, | | |but getting scarce now. Road | | |beyond somewhat rough and uneven, | | |which is caused by the spurs of J. J. Agaro | 4½ | 20 |Agaro, &c., all of which hills are | | |left on right. Bush, with no | | |traces of water, until Khor Sumba | | |is reached, but J. Agaro is | | |inhabited by Jebelawin. | | | _Khor Sumba_ | 5 | 25 |Crossed three times in the space | | |of about ½ mile. Probably due to | | |an S curve in the river and not | | |three distinct channels. Breadth | | |of each about 35 yards, but | | |extremely shallow. Banks very | | |fertile and a good deal of | | |cultivation, principally dura. | | |Good water obtainable here. | | | Khor Tumat | 1 | 26 |Road just enters khor, where it is | | |joined by Khor Kari, but leaves it | | |again without crossing it. Khor | | |about 60 yards broad here. No | | |water visible, but could probably | | |be obtained by digging, as there | | |is any quantity just below the | | |surface about 5 miles further | | |south. From here to the Khor El | | |Dahab (Adaba), trees are bigger | | |and water evidently more | | |plentiful, with many traces of all | | |sorts of game. | | | _Khor El | 2¾ | 28¾ |Crossed by the road about ½ mile Dahab_ | | |from its junction with the Khor | | |Tumat. Water obtainable at | | |present, but very little and bad. | | |Road crosses east of J. Farbau, | | |passing over some of the low | | |spurs; ground broken and stony. | | |All traces of water now disappear | | |and the ordinary bush begins | | |again. Numerous small khors are | | |crossed, but all completely dry. | | |J. Gumbûk is left to the E., and | | |about 1 mile further on signs of | | |water are again visible and | | |cultivation recommences, also two | | |or three tukls. Henceforward | | |cultivation is continuous, and | | |about ¾ mile further on at some | | |more tukls the road turns abruptly | | |to the right and runs straight | | |down to the Khor Tumat. | | | _Gezan_ (Water| 8 | 36¾ |Camp here in bed of khor 26th pool in Khor | | |December, 1899. Water good and Tumat) | | |plentiful but below surface. | | | | | |Milk and other supplies only | | |obtained with great difficulty. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

39.—GEZAN TO KURMUK, _viâ_ SUDE AND M’NZILA.

BY MAJOR GWYNN, D.S.O., R.E.

40.—GULE TO RENK.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902.

41.—JEBELEIN TO RENK (R.B.).

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH, 1902.

42.—RENK TO KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, MARCH, 1902.

[Sidenote: General.]

The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.

-----------+-----------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | +-------------+---------+ Place. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Khartoum.| -----------+-------------+---------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — | | | | _Renk_ | 283½ | 283½ |A meshra on the W. Nile with | | |inspector’s house and police | | |tukls. The road at first leads in | | |a S.E. direction, and after 2 Khor Deleib| 2 | 285½ |miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and | | |about 6 to 10 feet deep is | | |crossed. Another smaller khor, a | | |branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ | ¾ | 286¼ |mile further on. The road now runs | | |alongside a wide khor or branch of | | |the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The | | |track to Gule branches off in a | | |S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka | | |villages are passed about a mile | | |E. of the road (which is excellent | | |going), and continue at intervals | | |until after passing Sheikh Bakhit | | |Niok’s (a released slave from Warrit | 9 | 295¼ |Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A | | |few Shilluk villages are passed on | | |the island called Wad Ab Kona, | | |formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and | | |White Nile. This khor at High Nile | | |is probably 300 yards to 600 yards | | |wide, but now (March) it is | | |nowhere more than 300 and fordable | | |nearly everywhere. There are many | | |wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the | | |people are mostly Selim Baggara | | |living in temporary encampments | | |about a mile inland for the | | |grazing. | | | _Um | 11¼ | 306½ |The encampments now cease and the Hedeida_ | | |water in the khor gradually | | |decreases until at Um Hedeida, | | |water is stagnant and only in | | |small quantities. The country on | | |E. of track which always follows | | |the eastern bank of khor, is | | |covered with 3 feet high grass | | |(where not burnt), and scattered | | |bush and no signs of cultivation | | |are visible. | | | | 3 | 309½ |Water reappears in the khor, and | | |there are Selim encampments to the | | |E. of the track. | | | _Leungtom | 3½ | 313 |At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or or Domaia_ | | |Domaia (Arab) the Nile is | | |approached again for the first | | |time since Renk. About 1½ miles | | |inland are the villages of Kolang, | | |El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem | | |Banga (also a released slave from | | |Cairo). A certain amount of | | |cultivation is visible and the | | |country is tolerably open. Soon | | |after leaving the meshra, the | | |track follows the eastern bank of | | |a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. | | |The Arab name for it varies with | | |the districts it traverses. The | | |Dinka name was not obtained. On | | |the W. of the track is a fringe of | | |thick talh bush, to the E. the | | |country is fairly open. | | | Debba El | 4 | 317 |The first dom palms are met here. Zawia | | |This Debba is the commencement of | | |the Nabagaia district. | | | Dinka | 2½ | 319½ |A village, Anok, belonging to village, | | |Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾ Anok | | |miles to E. on a slight elevation | | |and thick talh bush commences on | | |both sides of the track. This | | |village appears to depend on the | | |river for its water supply. | | | | | |The bush gradually develops into | | |talh and heglig forest. There is | | |good shade all along the khor and | | |the track, as it has been | | |throughout, is excellent; the | | |trees along the route cause little | | |inconvenience. | | | _Tereiba_ | 9 | 328½ |Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba (Arab) | | |begins, and is marked by the | | |reappearance of dom palms. | | | | 2 | 330½ |An excellent mid-day camping | | |ground, good shade and water in | | |the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible | | |from near here. | | | Debba | 3 | 333½ |Dense forest continues until Ibrahim | | |reaching this slight elevation Sharak | | |(called after a man who was killed (Arab) | | |by an elephant here), and | | |commences again after about a mile _El Ragal_ | — | — |of open ground, and the district (Arab) | | |of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the | | |khor now takes that name. | | | Track | 2½ | 336 |A track branches off eastwards and leading to | | |is said to lead to a Dinka village Kash Kash | | |or district called Kash Kash 15-20 (Arab and | | |miles from the river. There are Dinka) | | |said to be wells there. The bush | | |or forest after leaving Debba | | |Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is | | |unpleasantly thick, especially for | | |night travelling, but here the | | |bush ceases to cause any | | |inconvenience. | | | Goz Abu | 3¾ | 339¾ |A slight elevation; a mile further Teiba | | |on the road was left and Khor | | |Sangeir about 100 yards wide and Khor | ¾ | 340½ |now (March) dry, was crossed. Sangeir or | | | Rau | | | | | | | | |This khor would probably be a | | |considerable obstacle in the | | |rains, and would have to be | | |crossed some distance up. After a | | |good rainy season the people in | | |the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which | | |is about 15 miles further up are | | |said to drink from it until well | | |on into the dry season. A mile Khor | 1 | 341½ |further on Khor Messangeir or Messangeir | | |Mariu, or Balantega, a rather | | |smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed _J. Ahmed | 1 | 342½ |Agha or Biba about 300 feet above Agha_ or | | |the plain. There are several Dinka _Biba_ | | |and Selim Arab villages in the | | |neighbourhood, but no one lives | | |here during the rains. The Dinkas | | |then retire inland and the Arabs | | |to districts N. of the fly limit. | | |From Ahmed Agba there is a little | | |used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit, | | |which is visible from the top of | | |the Jebel, and is described as | | |being distant two days without | | |water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka | | |Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him | | |when absent. There are many dom | | |palms around the Jebel. Water is | | |obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed | | |Agha, the river which here bends | | |S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it. | | | Heglig or | 3 | 345½ |Is the name of the district which Tau | | |extends for about 6 miles opposite | | |to Gezira Wad Beiker on the Gezira Wad | 2 | 347½ |northern end of which is a Shilluk Beiker | | |village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit | | |(Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the Edor Gamoia| — | — |name of the next district. | | | _Marbeit_ | 2½ | 350 | or _Shakab_| | | | | | | 1½ | 351½ |The road which has been skirting | | |the branch of the Nile (about 30 | | |yards wide) for about the last 4 | | |miles now ceases to do so, and a | | |grassy plain which at High Nile | | |must be a swamp intervenes between | | |it and the river. | | | Ial Gamus | — | — |A Shilluk village on the island. | | |The Sheikh after whom the village | | |is named, is a refugee from Cairo. | | | Kwé | 4½ | 356 |A Dinka Farikh. | | | Alumbul | ½ | 356½ |Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country | | |round is fairly open, scattered | | |kitr and naal grass. Both these | | |villages are under the control of | | |Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat. | | | _Meshra | 1½ | 358 |The meshra extends for about 2 Zeraf_ | | |miles; the road skirts the river | | |and crosses a wide, shallow khor Farlegh | 2 | 360 |called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Meshra | | |Arabs. It is said to come from Zeraf or | | |near Aturuk. Makwé | | | | | | _Rom | 3 | 363 |Dinka villages named Rom under (Dinka)_ or| | |Sheikh Jok. The district is known _Um Gursan_| | |by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the | | |track from Renk to this point is | | |as a rule excellent, but from here | | |to Kaka it is generally bad, | | |passing over very hard caked and | | |badly cracked cotton soil. | | | | 2 | 365 |Fine kuk and other trees are | | |passed. The small black fly was | | |exceptionally bad here in the | | |early morning and attacked the | | |camels in swarms. | | | Tereiti | 4 | 369 |The district of Tereiti begins. | | |Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the | | |district on opposite bank. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 372 |Meshra Rom or Tereiti. Rom_ or | | | _Tereiti_ | | | | | | Dinka | 3 | 375 |Villages belonging to Adeir villages, | | |Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of Fil and | | |track, to the W. the country is Ajak | | |more or less open with patches of | | |bush and trees in places. | | | Dinka | 7 | 382 |Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad villages, | | |Ashol. Nakwé and | | | Fithi | | | | | | Jung Yom | ¾ | 382¾ |Dinka villages under Akol. The | | |river is now about 2 miles away, | | |right of road. | | | Debba | 1¼ | 384 |Arab name for knoll on right of Shagerat | | |point where road bends westwards | | |and crosses a marshy (in rains) Debeik | 2 | 386 |plain to Sheikh Akol’s village | | |about 1 mile from river opposite _Shagerat | — | — |Kaka, where there are many Shilluk El Ashera_ | | |villages. The Arab name for this or _Loing | | |marshy district is Shagerat El Shuk_ | | |Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk. (opposite | | | Kaka) | | | | | | | | |Skirting an open marshy (in rains) | | |plain on right and following line | | |of trees on left, Dinka village Ajok | 2¾ | 388¾ |named Ajok is reached. Tracks now | | |become numerous and ill defined, | | |and one was followed which led | | |across an open marshy (in rains) | | |plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of | | |Kaka, wood station, known as _Kaka, old | 6¼ | 405 |Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village wood | | |is situated close to the river station_ | | |bank. -----------+-------------+---------+----------------------------------

43.—RENK TO OPPOSITE KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, DECEMBER, 1902, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1903.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Renk | — | — |Track taken depends on the time of | | |the year. Up to January inland | | |track must be followed owing to | | |water on the lower. | | | Telegraph Hill| 1 | 1 |On sandy hill near river; village | | |of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka | | |from Bahr El Ghazal. From here the | | |track follows the telegraph line | | |for some miles. | | | Khor Deleib | ½ | 1½ |Merely a dry ditch in the dry | | |season; another dry branch is | | |passed about 300 yards further on. | | |Country here is open grass land; | | |few small trees. | | | | 2½ | 4 |Thin forest of laot thorn bush and | | |small heglig trees. | | | Gaikwach | 3 | 7 |A village of the Aku district, | | |Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another | | |small village 300 yards further | | |on. | | | | 1½ | 8½ |Position of old Dinka village. | | | Kelang | 2½ | 11 |Small village of this name, left. | | | Loingwen | ½ | 11½ |Beginning of village of Loingwen, | | |which comprises five small ones, | | |all under Sheikh Bakhit Niok. From | | |here along the lower road there | | |are no villages before Elwat, and | | |travellers must halt near water. | | | Bangdit | 1½ | 13 |Sandy debba; no habitations. Scene | | |of a former fight between Dinkas | | |and Government troops. The track | | |now descends to the bank of the | | |khor that divides Island of Gaza- | | |el-Abiad from the mainland and | | |runs for the next 5 miles on high | | |sandy ridge within 500 yards of | | |the water. Guinea fowl and gazelle | | |in abundance; a few tetel seen, | | |and tracks of antelope, hippo, and | | |buffalo. A good deal of kittr near | | |track since Bangdit. No large | | |trees. | | | Lardbiu | 2½ | 15½ |Sandy debba on left. | | | | 2½ | 18 |Good camping ground. | | | Abiad Shwai | 1 | 19 |High sandy debba, which used to be | | |covered with big tamarind trees | | |which have now gone. Shortest | | |track is now along telegraph line, | | |but is probably impassable in the | | |rains. Leave khor on right. | | |Country bushy with small heglig | | |trees and some kittr. | | | | 3¾ | 22¾ |Sandy hill on right. Track now | | |crosses open plain of black cotton | | |soil, covered with rank grass. | | | _Elwat_ | 5¼ | 28 |Beginning of Elwat, district of | | |Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga. | | | | 1 | 29 |Salem’s own village, about 2 miles | | |from the river. This is the first | | |meshra since leaving Renk. High | | |debba between this village and the | | |river. | | | | | |From Elwat the track runs | | |alternately through open ground | | |and patches of bush and red talh | | |to Anak. | | | Anak | 5½ | 34½ |Village of Gi-el district. Three | | |small villages. The local Sheikh | | |Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs | | |through bush and thick forest for | | |many miles. Lower track deserted | | |by Dinkas, who follow the line | | |now, as being shorter. | | | Mabiu | 3½ | 38 |High debba on right on edge of | | |khor. Track along the khor is | | |close to line here; now get into | | |the land of big trees. | | | Dungbiagadet | 1½ | 39½ |Debba on right. | | | Allal | 2½ | 42 |Debba. Beginning of Allal | | |district, which exists in name | | |only. Arab name Tereiba. Many | | |thick dom palms. | | | | 1¼ | 43¼ |Debba Allal. | | | Ragal | 1¼ | 44½ |Beginning of district of Ragal. No | | |people. | | | Debba Ragal | 1¼ | 45¾ |Debba Ragal, about 200 yards from | | |khor. Little game seen here, | | |though plenty of fresh tracks of | | |elephant, buffalo, &c. | | | Kefali | ¼ | 46 |Debba. Many dom palms. This was | | |site of old Dinka village. Open | | |park land, which soon changes to | | |very thick forest; open again | | |after 1 mile. | | | | 2 | 48 |First view of Jebel Ahmed Agha | | |from track. | | | | 1 | 49 |Forest of red talh; old Dinka | | |elephant pits, and many skulls of | | |these beasts. | | | | 3¼ | 52¼ |Track divides, one going on to the | | |jebel and the other | | |eastwards—inland. This latter goes | | |to the Dinka district of Baanwen, | | |which lies up Khor Rau. A track | | |used to exist to Goz Kash-Kash, | | |but is now said to be “dead.” | | | Khor Rau | ¼ | 52½ |Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond bend | | |in the telegraph line; 40-feet | | |waterway, 3 feet deep; unfordable | | |for loaded transport animals on | | |account of mud (December). | | | _Jebel Ahmed | 2 | 54½ |The route followed will be seen by Agha_ | | |comparison to be several miles | | |shorter than the old track | | |previously sketched by other | | |officers. Shortest track is now | | |along line, though the going on | | |the lower tortuous native track is | | |better. | | | Goz Unaché | 2¼ | 56¾ |High ridge of ground on left, used | | |to be thickly populated by Kwach | | |Dinkas. Whole track is through | 5¼ | 62 |dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk, | | |kittr, and talh, except at Mile | | |62, where there is a broad open | | |plain. | | | _Meshra Zeraf_| 7⅝ | 69⅝ |Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No | | |Dinka villages here, though there | | |are some old cattle zeribas. These | | |change yearly—last year’s spot was | | |called Anambul. Some Dinka | | |refugees are, however, going to | | |build this year on the meshra, | | |which is well suited for purposes | | |of being irrigated by shadufs or | | |sakias. This is the first meshra | | |since Elwat, and the last until | | |Kaka old wood station, though in | | |the dry season Meshra Rom becomes | | |a meshra. | | | | | |Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is | | |mostly kittr. | | | Khor Makwé | 1¾ | 71⅜ |600-800 yards wide, and even in | | |dry season impassable, for some | | |way up. In dry season a track | | |exists from here to Kaka wood | | |station by the river bank. The | | |track to the Dinka villages, | 4¾ | 76⅛ |however, runs up this khor till | | |Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves | | |the khor and runs off southwards | | |over a grass plain. Khor Makwé | | |runs on to Aturuk, a deserted | | |Dinka village. | | | Khor Turiak | 1½ | 77⅝ |Track runs along this khor, and 1 | | |mile further on crosses it. Arab | | |name for this khor is Fo-alig. | | | | ¾ | 78⅜ |Enter forest now, which consists | | |of trees and kittr bush, | | |alternately with occasional | | |patches of park-like land, for the | | |next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on | | |the left of track till spot where | | |track crosses it, and this khor | | |winds about on right of track till | | |Mile 89⅛. | | | Gi-ka-kiu | 11¾ | 89⅛ |This is the chief village of Rom, | | |and this is the name generally | | |used, though the people speak of | | |the grazing grounds near the river | | |as Rom, probably denoting that it | | |is the grazing of the Rom people. | | |Sheikh Jok Wad Ageir. | | | Debba Fajak | 4 | 93⅛ |Site of old village. | | | Kolerang | 1¼ | 94⅝ |Small village, part of Rom. | | | Bafing | 1 | 95⅝ |Small village, part of Rom. Trees | | |on horizon. Cross khor here. | | | | 2¾ | 98⅜ |Cattle zeriba left, belongs to | | |Fiti (_see_ later). | | | Gio | 1¼ | 100⅝ |Large village of Gio, of district | | |of Ageir, also called Faloich | | |(name of the spot). Village of the | | |Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad | | |Shol. Good wells here that suffice | | |for the needs of all the | | |inhabitants all the year round, | | |but not for all their cattle. From | | |Gio the track runs W. to Demtemma | | |along a well-defined ridge for | | |several miles; villages cluster | | |thickly along this ridge. Khor | | |Kayaluk runs on left of track. | | | | 1½ | 102⅛ |One of the villages of Beia can be | | |seen from here left. Trees 2 miles | | |off right. Thick bush 1 mile left | | |on other side of khor. | | | Debba Mioriak | 2 | 104⅛ |Debba Mioriak on left. | | | Ai-yowel | ¾ | 104⅞ |Village of Ageir on right with one | | |big tree on east edge. Village of | | |Kil 1½ miles off half-right. | | |Village of Makwé is behind Kil in | | |the forest. | | | _Jung-yom_ | 1½ | 106⅝ |Village, part of Ageir, on right. | | |Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in | | |bed of khor, available at all | | |period of dry seasons. Travelling | | |is now most uninteresting, no | | |villages and hardly a tree to be | | |seen. | | | Debba Fadiet | 4 | 110⅝ |Site of an old village. Vast grass | | |plain on every side; not a tree or | | |a bush to be seen, even on the | | |horizon. | | | Debba Fojbe | 3¼ | 113⅞ |Site of another old village. | | | _Demtemma_ | 7 | 120⅞ |Situated in belt of trees on river | | |bank. Was till recently a police | | |post, but latter has now been | | |moved to Melut, 3 miles down | | |stream, to where the telegraph | | |office is. | | | | 1½ | 122⅜ |Track crosses dry khor which would | | |be a considerable obstacle in the | | |rains. | | | | 1⅝ | 124 |Cattle zeriba of Beia on banks of | | |Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide | | |here and 4 feet deep, muddy | | |bottom, clean banks. A big debba | | |on south side of the khor, and 1 | | |mile from the mouth of the khor. | | |Broad swamp on right of track. | | | | 2⅝ | 126⅝ |Track descends to river bank; | | |thick bush most of the way on left | | |of track. | | | _Tiang-rial_ | 4⅜ | 131 |A cattle zeriba of Beia left. | | |Backwater or small lake between | | |track and river. Island in river, | | |north end. | | | | ½ | 131½ |Thick bush left. | | | | ½ | 132 |End of backwater. March on river | | |bank; track winds along river | | |bank, occasionally through very | | |bad kittr bush, which can be | | |avoided in places by marching | | |along the foreshore. | | | | 5⅜ | 137⅜ |Big ardeib tree—conspicuous | | |landmark; backwater between tree | | |and river. After 2 miles the bush | | |ceases, and track lies over an | | |open grass plain. | | | | 4¼ | 141⅝ |Cattle zeriba of village of | | |Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality | | |Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here | | |and runs between track and river | | |all the way to just south of | | |Fashoda. | | | | 1¾ | 143⅜ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen and Addora, | | |of district of Ni-el. There are | | |three other zeribas between these | | |last two points. | | | Mialek | 3¾ | 147⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen (Ni-el). | | | Fanomdit | 2½ | 149⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of | | |district of Dunjol. | | | Faloich | 1 | 150⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of Ni-el. | | | Wunakoch | ½ | 151⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. | | | | ¾ | 151⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush on | | |right between track and khor. | | | Jomweira | — | — |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100 yards | | |further on. Track now crosses | | |broad shallow khor 2 miles wide. | | | | 1 | 152⅞ |Bush right; grass plain left. | | | | ½ | 153⅜ |Track enters bush right, leaving | | |khor left. Forest of red talh and | | |heglig, which continues 2½ miles | | |to Mile 157⅛. | | | Faldiar Rowe | 3¾ | 157⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track | | |leaving this zeriba crosses a | | |shallow khor and passes through a | | |thin belt of forest on to the bank | | |of khor. | | | _Khor Awilwil_| 1⅛ | 158¼ |Awilwil, from whence Kodok can be | | |seen for the first time. Track | | |runs southwards along bank of khor | | |for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, | | |and path is over vast, open, | | |undulating plain. | | | Debba Denkar | ½ | 158¾ |Good high debba. | | | | 1⅛ | 159⅞ |Track bifurcates here, one | | |following khor and going to | | |Ayung’s zeriba (_see_ later), and | | |the other running through the | | |Dinka villages of Dunjol. The | | |former track is the shorter by 2 | | |or 3 miles. | | | Amai-rial | 1¾ | 161⅝ |Village of Dunjol district which (opposite to | | |is spread over a vast plain Kodok) | | |opposite Kodok. | | | Amaal | 1¼ | 162⅞ | | | | Fiuweia | 1⅛ | 164¼ | | | | Ateptiap | 3⅜ | 167⅜ | | | | Khor Wol | ⅛ | 167½ |Track crosses this khor which has | | |water in it in pools and | | |excavations for 10 miles up. Can | | |be ascended by small steamers at | | |high Nile. French steamers used to | | |ascend in 1898. | | | | 1⅜ | 168⅞ |Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh | | |Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. | | |This spot is almost due south of | | |Kodok. Between the river and this | | |track is a broad swamp and the | | |formidable khor Awilwil. From here | | |a track runs inland through the | | |remaining villages of Dunjol, | | |keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil | | |all the way, passing through or | | |past the following villages and | | |places:— | | | | | |Mile 2¼. Wunfit, debba with few | | | trees. | | | | | | „ 3¼. Faiung, village. | | | | | | „ 4⅜. Wumakoch, village. | | | | | | „ 6¼. Tallen, „ | | | | | | „ 8¼. Fanakwé, „ | | | | | | „ 9¾. Fakok, „ | | | | | | „ 10½. Ang-ak, „ | | | | | | „ 12. Fobodiet, „ | | | | | | „ 14. Temohuk, „ | | | | | | „ 16. „ | | | | | |eventually running to the Sobat | | |River, which it joins near the | | |Dinka district of Gnok. | | | | 1¼ | 170⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Fakwé. | | | Diem Ajak | ¾ | 170⅞ |Debba 600 yards right. Bush | | |commences 200 yards further on. | | |Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile | | |somewhere here by native report. | | | | 1¾ | 172⅝ |Cattle zeriba of Fadweia. Track is | | |good and winds along the khor, | | |which runs from near where Awilwil | | |joined the Nile to the south. | | | Wuntao | 2¼ | 174⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name of | | |the locality as well as the | | |village to which the people | | |belong. The Shilluk Mek’s village | | |is due west. | | | Meshra Merial | 2¾ | 177⅝ |Said to be practicable all the | | |year round as a means of | | |communication between Dinka and | | |Shilluk banks. Shilluk village | | |Kwom opposite. Great numbers of | | |partridges all along here, | | |affording excellent sport walking | | |them up. | | | | | |The track along here is all good | | |going and would be quite passable | | |in the rains. | | | | 2¼ | 179⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Fadok (Dunjol). | | | Diwot | 1¼ | 181⅛ |First Shilluk village met with on | | |this (east) bank. End of the Dinka | | |country on the river. --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA TO AWITONG AND KASH-KASH.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903.

45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR.

BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903.

46.—J. JEROK, _viâ_ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA (ABOUT 52 MILES S.E. OF MELUT).

BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MAY 1904.

N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its possibly being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the White Nile at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil and the water supply is at present very uncertain. It would no doubt be difficult during the rainy season.

--------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- J. Jerok | — | — |Site of Military Post. From here | | |route to J. Maiak is that taken by J. Maiak | 19 | 19 |the Wad Mahmud expedition in | | |February, 1904. _Water in pools in | | |Khor Ahmar_ 1½ miles before | | |reaching this hill. | | | _J. Eri_ | 11 | 30 |Pond of rain-water, very | | |uncertain, about 1½ miles from the | | |hill. | | | _Villages of | 9 | 39 |About 7 miles from Eri, a khor Gum Gum | | |with rain-water (May) is crossed, people_ | | |and further on, the villages of | | |Gum Gum people are reached. They | | |drink from pools to the east of | | |Khor Gemmeiza and, at certain | | |seasons, from rain pools about 1 | | |mile W. of villages. | | | _K. Gemmeiza_ | 8 | 47 |Water in pool in khor. A rain pool | | |is passed about 4 miles further _Kilwega_ | 7 | 54 |on, and the villages of Burun from | | |Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are | | |reached. | | | | | |K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very | | |winding bed, a mile or two to the | | |south of and parallel to the | | |track. A path has been cut to a | | |watering place in the khor, called _Sami_ (K. | 10 | 64 |Sami. Past old burnt village of Gemmeiza) | | |Kurara Buruns, who now occupy | | |village on new road-cultivation | | |here, and water used by people | | |from J. Ulu in dry season. Khor | | |very narrow and covered up with | | |willows; on both sides are swamps. | | |Khor losing traces of sand. Two | | |water holes here could be much | | |improved. | | | | | |From Sami, track cut along high | | |ground until Ulu track is met, | | |going to | | | Khamiret El | 14 | 78 |Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles Tin | | |off. This is a good track and much | | |used but very tortuous, and | | |follows along ridge of high | | |ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, | | |a track from Ulu to Um Adil on | | |Khor Sami is crossed; this is | | |apparently called Um Ebeil on | | |Pruyssenaere’s route. | | | | | |About one hour from Khamiret El | | |Tin, track leaves khor and goes | | |along a depression in which, later | | |on, the 7 _Hafiras_ of Khamiret El | | |Tin village are. These are roofed- | | |in ponds of marsh water and | | |zeribaed to prevent animals, etc., | | |drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of | | |these now full of water. | | | | | |There are two water holes in Khor | | |Sida, which is the same as Khor | | |Sami, S.W. of village and used by | | |some people who live there. This Khamiret El | 6 | 84 |is better water. From here 6 miles Kurda | | |off is Khamiret El Kurda; people | | |from here now drink at Kumara | | |Hellet Bishara. These villages are | | |under Sheikh Ata Mannan. | | | _Kumara Hellet| 7 | 91 |Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as Bishara_ | | |also here, goes into Farashes and | | |is apparently lost. | | | Hellet Bitter | 12 | 103 |From here, 12 miles, general | | |direction S., is Hellet Bitter; | | |water not obtainable here all the | | |year round; people drink at | | |Bishara, etc., according to time | | |of year. | | | Hellet Banjom | 6 | 109 |No water here at present; road bad | | |going. | | | Wad Deluka | 14 | 123 |About 14 miles off, in S.W. | | |direction. Water here in two | | |wells, one has fallen in. | | | Melut | 52 (?) | 175 |On the White Nile. | | (?) | --------------+-------------+------+----------------------------------

47.—URYONG ON THE SOBAT TO THE WHITE NILE OPPOSITE KODOK.

BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O.

[Footnote 20: For description, _vide_ Part I, p. 119.]

[Footnote 21: In 1904, there was a small village and well at J. Mazmum.]

[Footnote 22: A road has been cut (1904) direct from Agadi to Gule.]

[Footnote 23: A good deal, if not all, of this wad has been cleared (1904).]